THE DALLES TIMES-MOUNTAINEER.
3
C Lin ATE AND SOIL.
By B. S. Pague.
Oregon is traversed, north and south, by the Cascade
mountains, which divides the state into geographical, as
well as into climatic parts. About two-thirds of the state
lie east of the mountains, and it has a climate of a semi
arid nature. To the west of the mountains the climate is
moist, with comparatively small temperature changes.
The Columbia and tributary rivers drain the eastern
portion of the state, and where the river cuts through the
Cascade mountains is where Wasco county begins, extend
ing eastward along the Columbia river, then joined by
Sherman county. These counties extend southward from
the Columbia river a distance of about 60 miles. These
two counties comprise the extreme northwestern portion of
Oregon east of the Cascades, termed Eastern Oregon or the
Inland Empire.
TOPOGRAPHY.
The counties are in general rolling in surface. The snow
capped summit of Mount Hood forms a portion of the west
ern boundary, and from the mountain chain eastward there
are several minor mountains or high hills between which
are many fertile valleys. The Columbia river is the north
ern boundary of the counties. The land surface along the
river has an elevation of from 100 to 300 feet; south of the
river is a range of hills having elevations of from 200 to600
feet, and then there is the rolling country. The Deschutes
river drains the major portion of Wasco county, the John
Day drains the eastern portion of Wasco and Sherman
counties, and Hood river drains the western portion of
Wasco county; these rivers and their tributaries traverse
most fertile and productive valleys.
CLIMATE.
By the climate of a place is meant the rain, snow, tem
perature, winds, and all those phases of the elements which
are commonly called the weather. The United States
Weather Bureau collects and compiles weather data, and
it is such data upon which this article is based. Wasco
county has one of the largest, most complete and accurate
weather reports made in the State of Oregon. The first
record was made by the United States Hospital Corps, at
old Fort Dalles, commencing in 1850 and continuing quite
regularly until 18G7. In December, 1874, Mr. Samuel L.
Brooks, of The Dalles, began making meterological -records
which he yet continues. Without his valuable record
but little informationcould be given concerning the climate
of these counties. Dr. P. G. Barrett has since 1891 made
a complete record, and at the government works at Cas
cade Locks records have been made since 1879. There
have been desultory efforts made to make records at Bake
Oven, Dufur and at Grass Valley, but none are of sufficient
length to cause them to have any real value. Records have
been commenced at Moro by Mr. Wm. Henrichs, which will
prove of great value.
TEMPERATURE.
The mean temperature of these counties is 49 to 52 de
grees. The mean temperature decreases, as a rule, with
distance from the Columbia river and with elevation. The
mean winter temperature, December-February, is from
31 to 36 degrees, while the summer, June-August, is from
58 to 73 degrees. The mean of the highest temperature
during the year range from 56 to 62 degrees, and of the
lowest from 40 to 42 degrees. The mean of the lowest tem
perature is below the freezing point (32 degrees) during
December, January and February; during the heat of sum
mer the lowest temperature which occur, as a rule, about
sunrise, range from 55 to 58 degrees along the rivers and
lower dependent upon the elevation.
During the heat of summer the highest temperature is
from 98 to 105 degrees, extending from May to October,
during winter the lowest temperatures are from 1 to 19 de
grees below zero, extending from December to March in
clusive. While temperatures to and below zero are re
corded frequently during the winter season, they do not oc
cur every winter, except, of course, on the highest eleva
tions. The maximum temperature during the winter
months always, for a month, average above the freezing
point. While the extreme maximum and extreme mini
mum temperatures give a wide range, yet the climate is
not rigorous as might be supposed. The cold of winter is of
short duration, the heat of summer not injurious, and sel
dom uncomfortable. The usual daily avocations proceed
during the mid heated term. Sunstroke or prostrations
from heat are unknown. The air is always dry, and espe
cially so during warmer portions of the year. The dryness
of the air produces rapid evaporations of the moisture on
the body and a cooling takes place, thus enabling the body
to withstand the high temperature. The nights are com
paratively cool in the summer or growing season, yet they
are, along the river, the warmest in the Pacific Northwest.
Warm nights are necessary to the growth and development
of vegetables in the early spring, and especially to the
growth of peaches. Owing to the cool nights generally pre
valent over the Pacific Northwest, peach culture on a large
and profitable scale is confined to a comparatively limited
area, and of this area there are no records yet obtained of
that suitable night temperature, more favorable than that
found in portions of Wasco and Sherman counties, thence
eastward along the Columbia river for 200 miles.
PRECIPITATION.
The precipitation of Eastern Oregon occurs principally
from October to April, and the same is true of these coun
ties. At Cascade Locks, over an area of a few miles, the
annual precipitation is 80 inches. This large amount is pro
duced by local causes; to the east mile by mile it decreases;
at Hood River 38 inches annually occur, while at The
Dalles, but 45 miles from Cascade Locks, the annual
amount is 15 inches. The precipitation continues to de
crease, with increase in distance from ths Cascades,
through Wasco and Sherman counties and to Arlington, in
Gilliam county, where but nine inches annually occur. To
the east of Arlington the influence of the Blue mountains
is felt, and the precipitation slowly increases. Less than
20 inches of precipitation annually occur over the greater
portion of Wasco and Sherman counties, and of this
amount the greater portion falls from November 1, to
April 1. There is an increase of rain fall in Sherman
county as compared with the amount at The Dalles. What
this amount is is not at present known. The topography
of the country east of Sherman county is the cause of this
local increase. From April to July showers occur, the total
for any month seldom amounts to over one inch. During
July and August an occasional thunder storm gives rain,
but otherwise it is rare, that there is enough rainfall to lay
the dust, the average for July and August combined is only
0.29 of an inch over the greater portion of botu counties.
Snow falls from November 15 to March 15, in varying
depths. Some winters the total will amount to several feet,
other winters not so much falls. In the southern and west
ern portions of Wasco county the snow fall is heavier than
in the other portion of the county. Snow seldom remains
on the ground for a long period, due the prevalence of
Chinook winds, produced by the dynamic heating of the
air. These occur at various intervals, usually following a
cold period, and they quickly melt the snow and clear the
ranges for food for the cattle.
There is no climate that is exactly similar to that of the
section under discussion; it has the cold of winter and the
warmth of summer that is found in Missouri, but it has not
the disagreeable features attendant upon the climate of
that state. Oregon, as a whole, ranks first for the lowest
death rate and the counties of Wasco and Sherman are
among those having the lowest death rate in the state. The
climatic conditions are detrimental to the continuation of
malarial and intermittent fevers, and all violent forms of
disease are unknown.
SOIL.
Ihe soil is, as a rule, of very fine texture. It is a light
grey soil, which darkens slightly on moistening. It is
abundantly supplied with potash, but phosphoric acid is de
ficient. To one unacquainted with its peculiarities, the soil
would not be considered especially favorable, but when its
present production is considered and its possible productive
capacity based on its present production, it is seen that the
soil possesses constituents that produce unusual, and al
most phenomenal crops of cereals, fruit, hay and vege
tables, and when irrigation is practiced the productive ca
pacity is almost doubled.
The soil is of such a nature, as to allow of the sub soil
moisture to rise to the surface, and on this fact rests the
production of the wonderful crops, that with an annual pre
cipitation of less than 20 inches would be impossible. The
soil contains some lime, and humus is also found in some
sections fn considerable quantity.
PRODUCTION.
Along the Columbia, Deschutes and John Day rivers, is
to be found the conditions ideal for the peach, and while
tnese sections are now fast taking rank as the first peach
growing section of Oregon, it will be but a few years until
the peaches of these two counties will control the market
of the Pacific Northwest. While the ideal peach belt has
been found, that for the most perfect and best keeping
apples and the best shipping strawberries has been found
in the Hood River valley. On the slopes of Mount Hood,
almost to the snow line, apples grow to perfection. Prunes,
pears, plums, etc., also grow to perfection. The vegetables
are among the earliest in the market in the spring, and no
place can produce finer ones. On the hill sides grapes grow
to perfection, and a good champagne grape can be profit
ably produced. The higher land produces wheat, barley,
rye and bunchgrass for cattle. The valleys produce great
crops of hay, especially so when irrigated. Rain in June
always insures a large wheat yield. Wasco county has
more diversified crops than has Sherman county, the latter
is so far almost exclusively a wheat producing county.
The following statement gives the important temperature
and precipitation data for The Dalles and Hood River,
both in Wasco county, and in order that the distribution of
precipitation in the surrounding section may be under
stood data for Cascade Locks, on the northwestern edge of
Wasco county; for Arlington, Gilliam county, the place of
least precipitation in Oregon; for Heppner, Morrow coun
ty and Crook, Crook county, are included.
PLACE
The Dalles
S. L. Brooks
Observer
Record 1878-93
Hood River
Dr.G.P. Barrett
Observer
Record 1891-97
Cascade Locks .
DATA Jan. Feb Mh Ap. Ma fun Jul. Au. Sep Ocl No. Dec An'
Mean Max. " '
Temperature 36 45 56 65 71 77 80 83 74 63 50 41 6a
Mean Min.
Temperature 25 29 34 40 4J 55 58 58 49 41 34 30 4
Mean Temp. 31 36 46 53 61 67 73 71 62 52 42 35 5a.
Avr'ge Prec. 28.6 1.98 1.3S 0.73 0.64 0.53 0.15 0.14 0.5? 1.46 1.74 3.18 15. 3H
Mean Max.
Temperature 36 41 49 54 60 69 76 76 65 58 48 39 56
Mean Min.
Temperature 26 28 32 38 44 49 54 54 48 41 37 31 40-
Mean Temp. 33 35 41 47 55 58 66 66 56 50 43 35 49-
Avr'ge Prec, 7.35 4.50 3.64 22.6 1.54 1.08 0.20 0.20 1. 71 2. 95 3.88.35 37.76
Avr'ge Prec. 14.04 9.87-7.71 6. 4s'3. 71 2.63 0.94 0.61 3.57 7.2719.10)1380 79 70
The Dalles. Oregon.
The Dalles, as a municipality, dates its existence from
1857, having been incorporated by an act of the territorial
legislature passed January 26th of that year. But as a
place of importance in the annals of the Northwest, it is
of much longer duration
The fierce rapids in the Columbia river a few miles above
the town were celebrated and widely known, long before
any settlement of white people was made, or even contem
plated. The town derives its name from tLe rapids in the
river. These were called La Grande Dall de la Columbia
(the great trough of the Columbia) by the early Canadian
voyageurs of the Hudson Bay Company. These rapids
were a source of great trouble and vexation to those hardy
river men, who. early in the century traveled to and from
the post at Vancouver and the posts of the Hudson Bay
Company, that were scattered about the Columbia valley,
wherever the needs of the trappers demanded, with furs
and merchandise. The many lives sacrificed in making the
perilous descent of these rapids caused it to be known as
the most dangerous place on the entire river.
The earliest and first knowledge of The Dalles is found
in the writings of Lewis and Clarke, who encamped on its
site, near the mouth of mill creek, in 1803, and rested for
a time after the arduous work of making ihe portage
around the rapids They were troubled by the Indians,
who were savage and quite hostile. The journals of the ex
pedition contain thrilling accounts of their experience In
making the transfer, and of their encounters with the In
dians. Captain Bonneville afterwards experienced similar
difficulties with the Astor expedition.
In early Indian tradition the place was called "Win
quatt" It was also known as "Wishram," and is referred
to by these names in the journals of Lewis and Clarke, and
of the Bonneville expedition. By the Methodist mission
aries it was denominated "Wascopum." It was a central
point and was dominated by the ancient and powerful tribe
of Wascoes, a remnant of whom are yet to be seen about
the streets of The Dalles, and whose shanties and rude
dwellings adorn the west banks of Mill creek.
By reason of its central loation, and being at the head
of navigation, so to speak, and at the eastern base of the
Cascade range, it became a great trading center among
the different tribes of Indians inhabiting the entire coun
try. Here would come the Willamettes and Klackamas
from the valley of the Willamette; the Klatsops, Chinooks
and others from the coast coming up the Columbia in great
canoes; the Nes Perces, Klickitats, Walla Wallas, Spo
kanes, Yakimas and other tribes from the interior portion
of the great Columbia basin would come in canoes down
the river or across the grass plains stretching away to the
east, south and north, to fish for salmon at the great "Turn
water," and to barter their furs and robes for wampum,
and other commodities of the tribes to the west of the great
range. Slaves were a comon article of commerce among
these savages. The captives taken by the coast tribes would
be disposed of to those of the interior and vice versa. Fierce
and bloody wars were often waged for the supremacy and
control of the place, and it was only the powerful and
strong who were able to retain possession of the most de
sirable spot in the country, to the aborigines.
The Indian names of many places in the immediate vicin
ity of The Dalles are worthy of being perpetuated, and it is
not unfitting tnat some of them be reproduced in this
sketch. "Winquatt" signifies surrounded by a bold bluff
of rocks. Its fitness for the site of this city will be easily
apparent. The mouth of Mill creek was termed "Will-look-it,"
meaning looking through an opening or gap. Three
Mile creek at its mouth, "We-galth," a place of danger, for
it was here that the war-like Snakes and otters from be
yond the Deschutes and the confines of the Blue moun
tains, were wont to make their descents on the village of
Winquatt. "Qua-qual-chal" was the name of the site of
the old United States garrison. It means squirrel point.
The large spring west of the Catholic cemetery was termed
"Gai-galt we-la-leth." The mountain to the southeast of
the town was called "Shinni-na-kalth," the mountain that
marks the course of the sun. West of Chenoweth creek is
a rocky hill, rugged and precipitous, on the east and north.
This point is called "Ethno-a-Chalk," the vulture's nest
The mountain to the west was known as "Molock Oahuit,"
the elk's trail. "She-looks-thla-gipt-whalth, the wolf spring
was given to the spring of pure water on the old Irvine
donation. The rapids in the river were called "Turn wata,"
fierce and roaring s water. Numbers more could be given
but only such as are of local significance have been men
tioned. Many of these aboriginal names are beautiful and
significant. It is to be regretted that more of them have
not been retained as the names of the places they were for
so long.
It was in 1820 that the first settlement of white people
was made at the location of The Dalles. This was but a
rude post of the Hudson Bay Company, and was estab
lished by James Birnie for the purpose of trading with the
Indians and to assist the voyagers of the company in mak
ing the difficult transfers about the long portage of The
dalles. Birnie remained in charge of the post for a con
siderable time. It was finally abandoned; the reason as
signed being the hostility of the Indians, who were ever
jealous of any threatened interference with their fishing
and trading advantages, and strenuously opposed the en
croachment of the whites. No event of importance is re
corded from the time the post of the Hudson Bay Company
was removed until the fall of 1834, when Revs. Lee and
Perkins located the historic Methodist mission. This was
completed in 1837, and it was by the missionaries called
Wascopum, one of the aboriginal names given to the place
and its vicinity, while by the Indians it was for many
years known as "Perkins House." The mission buildings
were situated on the bench a short distance east of the
Wasco Academy grounds, where the outlines of the founda
tion of the principal building are yet to be seen. The mis
sionaries did a great and good work among the hitherto
savage natives, in leaching them habits of Industry and
Instilling the principles of Christianity in their minds. The
influence of their teachings was long felt, and was mani
fest in the Indian wars of later years. This outpost of civ
ilization was maintained by the Methodists for more than
ten years. Lee continued the superintendency of the mis
sion until 1844, when he was succeeded by Rev. Geo. Gary,
who continued in charge until 1847. In that year Rev. Wil
liam Roberts assumed control of the mission. For over
ten years the Methodist mislon station constituted the
sole settlement of white people at The Dalles, and It was
the first permanent settlement made. This was during the
period when the territory was claimed by both England
and the United States. It was a project dear to the hearts
of Lee and his associates to hold the country for the Uni
ted States, and much credit is due to them and the mission
aries of the American Board, who, while endeavoring to