4 Fall Fashions Capital Journal, Salem, Oregon, Tuesday, Sept. 20. 1949 Three-Quarter Coats, All Fur or Fur -Trimmed, Lead Fall Styles The important fur fashion of the year is the three-quarter coat, 34 to 40 inches long, that looks right with any skirt length and smart on every figure. The leading silhouette is straight In front with a four-or-five flare back that falls from the shoulder In graceful folds. Collars are small, gently rolled or upstanding. Sleeves are straight with moderate full ness and the majority have small, turned-back or novelty cuffs. Many fur coats are shown with belts, or can be worn either belted or full. A distinctively new fur fashion is a collarlcss. Mandarin-styled coat with side slits and kimona-type sleeves. Genuine mink and its popu lar - priced counterpart, mink dyed muskrat highlight the entire fur fashion picture, not only for coats themselves, but as trimmings on coats of other furs. Black Persian lamb coat? with collars, sleeve trims or but tons of mink appear in all the leading collections. Luxurious looking, yet within reach of the average purse, is smart and ser viceable Jap mink. Mink and the mink-type furs take prece dence over all others for jackets and capes as well as full-length coats. Staging a strong come-back for the 1949-50 winer season Is genuine Alaskan sealskin that has no equal for warmth and wear. It is shown in warm-toned browns as well as black, and for something really new and exciting is even dyed in navy blue! The young business wo man or college girl will continue to bet on the good looks and sturdiness of mouton. Gray Chi nese kidskin is another service able fur in the budget-class that Is sure to find favor with the Junior set. Grey squirrel Is being re-discovered for its softness, flattery and richness; and squirrel, dyed to resemble sable or mink, ranks among the season's favorites. Again available at moderate prices, silver-blue and natural muskrat will have a strong ap peal to the woman who wants a smart and practical coat to wear on all occasions for many sea sons. Sling capes In mink and in squirrel outrank jackets in popularity ;and there is a strong preference for flat furs over the fluffy, long-haired furs for all types of scarfs, capes and acces sories. Basic, becoming styles that avoid extremes, large and varied selections, and attractive prices combine to make this an advan tageous time to Invest in furs. Not in years has it been so easy for the average woman to find a fur coat to suit her needs, her taste, and her means. Be Button Bold Be bold and brazen in your use of buttons when restyling an old dress to new Importance, or when making a new one yourself. It's the newest and one of the most important fashion trims and you can set your bud get limit on just how extrava gant in your button use you care to be. In the U. called "Joe". S. Navy coffee is pJ -" 'f- . Bellciano takes to the short and flared in a marvelous little topper of Forstmann's taupe alpaca fleece. A vast, widely . lapeled fur collar, with patch pockets set at a soft angle, curved and cuffed. Luxuriously lined with nutria. Millinery Collections Reminiscent of Renaissance If? Jh: ,uA I h ' ... t , The elegance of the Renais sance period is recalled In the millinery expression of autumn 1949. Bonnets are demure berets, small and lithesome and sleekly-draped turbans, rich in fabric and color. Daytime hats and dinner hats are soft, tiny and oh-so-feminine. Gently scooped trimmed bon nets, many with chin straps of velveteen, others wilh gracious bows of tulle and veil, are the go - with - everything suit and dress hats. Casual hats for fall suits and tailored costumes also follow the head-hugging helmet lines with a curving, irregular silhou ette that softens their basic se verity. Profile flattering turbans and draped-dramatically berets fol low the headlines closely and are shaped well down over one ear. Black velvet facings, satin pipings, silk cords and tassels trim the perennial black hat. Feathers, such as coq, oslrich. make-believe bird of paradise, are used for gracious accents to the after-five headdress. Fabrics Wear An Aura Of Elegance Like a dream sequence In a Hollywood technicolor extrava ganza, autumn 4 laorics are the stuff that glamour is made of! Crisp, whispering taffetas brocades that glow with an aura of iridescence jewel - gleaming satins and shimmering velvets all sparkle in fashion's frame. Colors in nature's own hues, brilliantly shine in a host of luxurious fabrics. Silks are heavy and with a new radiance of their own and in the greatest array of types and weaves seen many, many years. Novelty weaves are used artistically to create the most fascinating fab ric story since the turn of the century. Fall Footnotes Predict High Fashion New variations to old theme is the keynote of the Fall shoe collections. Heels either soar to skyscraper heights or reach new lows in smart, versatile flatties that go 'round the clock in complete style rightness. Straps that angle across the instep or circle the ankle and the insteps, are very much in the picture. The classic pump takes to bright trim by the addi tion of smart clips (borrow your ear-rings) at the vamp. The suit-slanted stroller is ever smart and twice-as-elegant as heretofore in suave snakeskins and other reptiles. The ghillie tie takes an encore in the fash ion scene for Fall, The charming Louis heel, hesitantly introduced last year, is here to stay for the dressy afternoon frock and the cock tail length dress. Spats and spat versions are good news with dressmaker and semi-tailored suits. Many of the strap ped shoes wear button detail. For smoother, more flatter ing fit, more and more of the new shoes have elasticized up pers, which lend themselves more naturally to more in tricate styling. Colors are evident In har mony creating ensembles with the brown-tones, wines, brick, green and even navy making a strong bid for prominence. Suedes, soft and supple kids with metallic brilliance and calf skins are the top trio in shoe fabrics. Gentle shoulders and soft curving hips highlighted with bold little buttons. A faille cocktail suit by Beni Claire of Paul Parnes. Millinery Mood Is Exotic, Frivolous Feathers are chic and important again In millinery moods for Fall! Ostrich feathers, plumes, aigrette-type trims enhance the velour and velveteens that are this season s after-five hat charmers. For the street scene, luxurious felts are manipulated to a close-to-the-head look, or in little shapes with peaked crowns and finish with a jaunty drape at the side. Sheer enchantment and face- framing flattery for every wo man are the dramatic, back-hugging, not-too-high draped tur bans. There are new notes of elegance and luxury in the met allic cloths, the super-sheen vel vets and the heavy, lustrous satins used for these turbans. Trims for all hats are glam our and excitement - packed! Braid and beads, jeweled pat terns, new feather treatments all add thrilling grace notes to the fall millinery tone poem. Your Fall hat will accent with contrast, rather than match, most of your wardrobe, with all the borrowed-from-Nature col ors displayed in full glory in the millinery collections. r r The Pixie Pair, sophisticated hat and muff set, dramatized in rich shades of corduroy. Pin and earring by Coro. Designers Give Interpretations To Cottons There's a rich opulence to cot tons for fall. Textile fabricators and designers have gone all out to give cottons a new future. Calico and gingham wearing an iridescent look take an im portant place in the career and college girl's wardrobe. Cotton flannels, velveteen and cordu roy blazon forth in bold, bright plaids and stripes. Cotton knits are more exciting and boasting a sweater and blouse look wherever possible. Good-looking shirts and shirt waists have a sophisticated look in this season of separates and coordinates. And in the 'underneath-it-all' department, fresh, sparking cot ton petticoats and camisoles with feminine touches of bows and velvet drawstrings go from street wear to ballerina length for evening. The United States devotes 1, 141,615,000 acres of its land to farming. To test a pancake griddle drop a few drops of cold water on it; if the water forms small bubbles that hiss and dance over the griddle pour on the cakes. t . Ini i ! tiT rri ft rim i The Jeepster This is the tall story for fall, as advocated by Mr. Fred of John Frederics. A knockabout in taupe meluscine with a flamboyant silk rose trim. Lmmmm. - - Cap Cloche Done in fuzzy gray lelt, this is an important silhouette for fall, called 'Congo Conquest' by Mr. John. Hi-Lo This is Sally Victor s hit hat for fall, in orange felt, with telescope crown to be worn either high or low. in me itioou oi Elegance, an effective cocktail hat of jet aigrettes is sparked into bril liance with its touches of jew els. The necklace is by Coro. Plaids Popular Plaid remains high on the popularity poll again this fall. Check the importance of shadow to bold plaids in every phase of ine lasnion story. It s spotlight ed over and over again in con- Your Gloves, Milady It s the twist at the wrist that counts in gloves this season. On the strictest little casual to the most sophisticated glove, there are saucy ruffles, petal-like pouffs and flashes of soft laces. Colors, too, are braver and brighter doeskins and leathers, brilliantly dyed; knits interwo ven with metallic threads suedes and fabrics wearing con trasting thumbs that pickup the dominant color of your ensemble. GInve Glamour Gloves with a frivolous, femi nine look are getting a big hand this fall. Side-draping, smock ing, elasticized wrists, multi stitching and dressmaker detail give new fashion importance to gloves as a major costume accessory. junction with velveteen sheer, solid-color woolens. and Scarf Fancies for Fashion Fantasy First a fashion whim now a permanent part of today's fash ion picture are Milady's scarves' Those wispy, colorful and oh-so- i versatile accessories are seen ac centing every autumn costume The newest have matured from last year's narrow oblongs into mammoth stoles and large squares that arc lovingly worn with everything from suits to formats. Gleaming fabrics many hand-painted on luxurious silks, that are outstanding as sashes, ascots and turbans. All-Purpne Casual Class or date wear, this softly tailored wool crepe casual dress Is tops. Noe cardigan neckline and deep pouch pockets De signed by Frances Dexter of St. Louis. Bounty for Brides Every pastel tint In the rain bow Is presented in a galaxy of ultra-elegant bridal finery. Shell transparency tones are used in the traditional bridal satins, nets and the shimmering velvets in drapery - dramatic bridal, and bridesmaids' gowns. Many bride's gowns carry matching mitts as part of the dress itself more and more stress is laid upon greater ver satility In the design of the I gown. Removable long sleeves little bodice-boleros and other tricks adapt the gown from the wedding aisle to the ballroom For , floor. Brocaded satins metallic thread shot crepes the loveliest of chiffon velvets and silk chif fons and marquisettes are more lavish in one of the most lavish of bridal showings In years. Added Attraction At Brown's for the Fall Opening DURING THE EVENING OF THE FALL OPEN ING, ON SEPTEMBER 20, BROWN'S WILL HAVE ON DISPLAY IN THEIR WINDOWS, ACTUAL PHOTOGRAPHS OF DIAMONDS FROM THE DIAMOND MINE IN THE DEPTHS OF SOUTH AFRICA ALL THE WAY UP TO THE FINISHED DIAMOND STEP BY STEP Come and sec this wonderful disploy, you will be amazed at what takes ploce before you get the diamond as you buy it. Photos furnished by Keepsake, one of the world's largest diamond workers. SALEM'S LEADING CREDIT ilWKUOU 4) OfTlCIAN" iftcuetteJ in tif(e at Priced 9 . All wool covert and soft furry suede coats from $2.".00 featuring the kelly and wine fall shades for smart fall wear! Sheen all wool gabardine suits from $25.00 in fall wine, green, grain and grey shades! Smartest and newest millinery always at Koberts one price hat department - $2.98 Xew millinery shipments daily from Xew York. Fashions Second Floor WE GIVE AND REDEEM S&H GREEN STAMPS Open Friday 'Till 9 P. M.