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About Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1919-1980 | View Entire Issue (Sept. 18, 1930)
THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER IS, 1930 THE CAPITAL JOURNAL, SALEM, OREGON MILLERS OFFER LATE FASHIONS OF HOLLYWOOD Fashions and footlights have aaeiatd. so ths well dressed vomen f America gala a benefactor and the style world wins a formidable ally. And to, H to tnat MUler'a pre sent to the fashion Industry Fn chon and Marco Mode from Hol lywood. Stylet, with then constant demand for originality, will find new life In the vast creative re sources controlled by the world fa mous stage producers, Fanchon & Marco. That Intuitive knowledge of public taste that has made their entertainment efforts so Interna tionally successful, cannot help but result in creative awards that will revolutionize the methods of mod ern merchandising. It is especially fortunate for all concerned that the responsible task of dress creation has fallen to the lot of Fanchon, feminine member of Fanchon fc Marco. Situated as the Is with headquarters In Holly wood, the now acknowledged fash Ion as well as film capital of the world, the genius of this remark able craltswoman la bound to make the slogan, "Fanchon Decrees the1 Fashion," an American byword. Her direct contact with both stage ! and studio provides a background 1 for a wealth of fashion Ideas not obtainable elsewhere. All the glam orous beauty that is Hollywood all ' the novel and distinctive touches 1 that are Hollywood all the cre ative ability of Fanchon will be 1 reflected In Fanchon and Marco modes. Present Day Styles Are Planned For A Fellow With An Athletic Figure The styles for fall are a boon to the man whom nature has endowed with an athletic figure and also to the man whose clothes must supple ment nature's lapses by molding a figure for him through the artificial graces which good tailoring so often applies. The point Is this: The styles this season demand trlmness of lines. . . natural shoulders, definition of chest, waist and hips and even more graceful tapering of the trouser leg than has been evident In recent seasons. In suits these characteristics are noted both In single and double- brecsted models. For the more conservative dresser there are still some straight-front, straight-drape models shown in the expectation that older men will prefer this type of coat largely because they offer more comfort and roominess. These coats are chiefly In the three-button single-breasted models with notch lapels. However, the younger men, the college and club type of dresser will "go for" these trimmer models be cause they surely do add more grace and youth fulness to the figure. In the suits the most fashionable fabric In the order of then pre sumed popularity arc tweeds, twists. casslmeres, worsteds, cheviots, flan nels and serges. In colors, greys still have the lead. . . a carry-over from summer. Greens sre showing Style Has New Importance As Fur Coats Are Cut To The Fall Silhouette By Li t I I. A IlKONSON there was a time, not so long ago. when fur coats possessed about as much style and grace as a bear. Year after year these bulky gar ments were worn, transforming their proud possessors into huge shapeless forms, without the ellKhtest regard (or line or detail. Very smart wom an rather than submit to their clum tness, chose sleek cloth coats that retained their slendcrness, with trlmlngs of fur only to add a flat tering frame to the face and a note of richness. But that is all changed In this year of grace In 'ashlons and the new mode in fur garments as sumes definite smartness in adapta tion of new silhouette and detail BIGGEST MAP TO COST 2 MILLION IN FIFTY YEARS Wellesley, Mass. (LP) The largest map in the world, which will meas ure 63 feet from East to West and 46 feet from North to South, is be ing constructed here. Conceived by Roger W. Babson, noted satistician, the work, a lief outline of the United States and Canada, was begun about five years ago. It Is estimated that 50 more years will be required for its com pletion, and approximately $2,000. 000 will be expended on the project, The map will be 10 times larger than that of the Pan-American Union which the government pos sesses. The latter Is flat, whereas that being pieced together here will be of spherical form in exact ratio to the earth's curve. The horizontal scale will be one Inch for four miles. The vertical scale will be one foot for four miles, insuring that altitudes and depres sions depicted will stand out prom inently. A gallery, 15 feet high, will en circle the map. Viewed from this, any section reproduced on the work will appear Just about as it would If actually seen from an airplane at a height of 12 miles. Not only will the topography of the United States and Canada be imitated with precision, but by elab orate color schemes, even landscape effects will be simulated as far as possible. swimTaftTr illegal bird Seattle. Wash., (IP) Admitting his ability as a good swimmer cost D. H. Kelly and a companion a trip to justice court. That, added to the fact that they were forced to throw their dinner into a lake, made Kelly and George Crooks resolve that they would be cartful where they drop ped feathers after shooting grouse out of season. An apparently Innocent little blue feather led to the loss of theli meal and their visit to court. A. J. Beach, county game ward on, saw the feather on the Pratt lake trail. He followed footprints several miles until he came upon the two men preparing a meal over A camp fire. "What are you doing here,' he asked. - "Oh. Just fishing," replied KeUy. I suppose this pile of feathers here was plucked from the fish you caught. Where's that bird?" Kelly produced the dressed fowl long enough to heave it far out on the lake. "Can you swim? asked the game warden, calmly drawing his gun. "Yes, I'm a pretty good swim soer," said Kelly. "Then swim out and get that bird." Kelly mournfully stripped, plunged Into the cold water, swam 100 feet or so and retrieved the bird, which had submerged. He and Crooks were charged With killing game out of season. treatments. Pain re handled ex actly as if they were cloth fitted and flared, gathered and tucked. Elaborated stylings achieved thru masterful and intricate cut provid ing a distinctly youthful silhouette, distinguish the 1930 furs. All but real sports types are semi- fitted, with the bodice moulded to the figure and the waistline accent ed by belt or indicated by seamlngs or tucks. The gathered waist giving a Dioused top, a moulded hip line and softly flaring skirt are other in teresting variations of the silhou ette. Flared treatments are modi fled and are discreetly introduced rather low at side or back. Full length coats reach four or five in ches below the knee, while in more formal afternoon models the line is lengthened, fully covering the calf of the leg, dipping low in back in a rounded contour. The three-quarter ana seven-etgmns lengths are served for the sport or casual true oi aaytime coat. The newer trend in collar treat ments sponsors the elaborated col lars of mederate dimensions. High, upstanding shawl collars are notice ably Important and they may be worn high, framing the face, or flat tened out over the shoulders in cape- let lash ion. cravats and the effects are also In the season's style picture, Sleeve treatments repeat collar de tails wlh decoration usually center ed In the forearm. The leg-of-mutton and over-sleeve are pleasant revivals. More caracul in black, kaffa brown sandalwood and bisque is outstand ing for formal and informal daytime wear. Natural summer ermine and dyed ermine in beige and dark brown colorings, black broadtail. mink and Persian lamb appear in formal sty lings. Beige and brown laptn, tan and gray kidskin, Japan ese mink, beaver, leopard, ocelot and the old favorite. Alaska seal in black and logwood brown are Im portant in the wide variety of pelts introduced for sports or casual types. Black is repeatedly stressed as the lending color choice in fur coats. with browns and beiges second. SCORES RETORN OF LONG SKIRTS Paris (LPV Woman is a "thing of beauty" and should not try to cover up the fact too much, thinks Mar cel Pre vast of the Academie Fran caise. author of many works notably Tne Autumn of a woman and "The Strong Virgins." Marcel Prevost is a bit worried. He saw too many long skirts re cently when Paris entertained the Continent's most stylish women. For a long time," says he, "I hare defended the proposition that women are born equal with men, and having the same needs should havs the same rights to vote. But nd this throws me into s rage they are retarding the day when they shall be considered man's equal In France, by stupid slavery to the mode." Men," points out the wise M. Prevost, "are not without elegance themselves. Yet, for fifty or a hundred years they have not changed their styles much except in the matter of small details. I "Women, on the other hand. since the war have made a great propaganda for short skirts and short hair. They defended both with great eloquence and every body supposed they knew what they wanted. Skirts gradually grew shorter and shorter until they reached the knee, then stop- i ped above the knee. Borne sort of 1 prudence kept them from disap pearing altogether. But suddenly one day we wake up to find them dropping with amazing rapidity to the ground. What are we to think? Have women gone mad. or are they absolutely hypnotized by the couturiers? The British War office has an nounced that the total strength of the Territorial Army, exclusive of the permanent staff. Is now 6.058 officers and 137,157 of other ranks. great strength in eastern fashion circles. STRIPES IN GOOD TASTE There it no prescribed type of pattern as having preference over others of last season. Stripes will be good. Overplaids, small checks and Glenurouharte are mostly snown in tne liner lines. In the business suits small figured worsteds and mixture effects In casslmeres, tweeds and cheviots have the call. College styles for fall present a distinct vogue In themselves by the Introduction of certain details and novelties that will be confined to college clothes at least for the early pair or me season. fATTERSALL VEST RETURNS Highlights in this type of styling presents a considerable popularity toward double-breasted suits. (An extreme style among these Is a one-button double-breasted.) also there seems to be a strong trend for the return of the Tattersall vest. that straight across cut at the bot tom that had so much popularity a few seasons ago. Light, and apple green and Dottle green in suits Is another college venture. Then, also, shepherd checks are predicted. . . a style emanating from the fact that the Prince of Wales has been seen a great deal lately in this type of pattern. Vents are seen in coats more than heretofore. Pleats at the apron of :ne irousers are receding in popu larity but will hang on this season yet in young men's suits. Oxfords and Cambridge greys are leaders among the grey family, many of these in Just the plain color mixture effect. GUARD TYPE OF OVERCOAT Topcoat and overcoat styles for the fall and winter of 1930-31 are along the same lines. By that we mean what you'll see In the topcoat models now you'll see continued in the overcoat styles later. Double breasted styles are considerably to the fore and most of these are more form fitting than we have seen since the passing oL the -"Guard" coat a few seasons back. In fact the new models are "very closely al lied to the "Guard" type of coat. . . broad shoulders, deep chest, tapered waist and a bit of flare at the hip. Peak lapels on these are moderate ly broad but not long. This is the young man's dress coat of the sea-. son. For knockabout purposes two styles present themselves. In the topcoat a semi-box effect with half belt at back and made of camel's hair or Shetland or other fleeces. These fleeces are also shown to some extent in the raglan model. The other style Is more inherent In the overcoats. This coat also comes In the fleecy fabrics men tioned above or in heavy wools such as chinchillas, Scotches and heavy weight tweeds. It is double-breast ed and has either the belt back or the all-round belt that loops In front. It is a hybrid between the burly box and the ulster. Then there will be the shorter box coats In both single and double-breasted models. In the shorter coats of this type a great many coverts are being shown. The Chesterfield coat which has not promised much In recent sea sons Is more favorably considered this year. Many fine models are beine shown In the smarter lines. They are single-breasted, fly front, tube model and with either velvet or self collar. The raplan coat. In contrast to the Chesterfield, has been predict ed as a leader for several seasons, but It never seems to quite catch on with the better dressers. It is still being shown and much mentioned In the forecasts but we believe It will not itain many new followers bevond the limited coterie that some reason or other like this type of coat. Returning to the subject of guard coats we believe that you are going to see a lot of them of fine blue. grey and brown chinchillas this winter. Those that can afford them will wear these fitted styles In fine Montagnacs but Inasmuch as a real Montagnac cannot be had much under $100 to $125. this will be distinctly a plutocrat style. In shower clothes the styles are divided between the trench coat In Guard" model and the slicker In radian effect. CHEAPER FI R COATS GOING Fur coats, some of them costing hefty sums, will still be seen at the college football games but the cheaper grades of furs and Imita tion pelts are fading from the pic ture. The college fellow who can afford to lav down "a grand or two' for a real fur will be there. But the lad whose limit was a "century or so" and accordingly had to wear a make-shift or misnomer finds that he looks a great deal smarter and genuine In those rich looking polo coats of deep pile fleeces such as camel's hair, llama cloths, etc. This type of coat Is going to be stronger than ever this year and almost as many girls will be seen wearing them at football games as men. This Is as It should be be cause they are sightly, warm, rich looking and have the advantage of being something genuine. python, two and a half feet long. It was presented to the soo. ' INDIAN CEMETERY FOIND Lewiston. 111., (IP) Dr. Don Dick son, University of Chicago profes sor, has uncovered near here traces of a cemetery of Indians who lived fn this section 1,000 to 3,000 years ago. He estimated that more than 5,000 skeletons would be found un der one mound, which Is In the shape of a crescent, 550 feet from Up to Up, and 150 feet wldeat the center. Dickson believes the skele tons are those of Indians related to the Mound builders. ROPE IS ROCK PYTHON St Louis tlP) A rope appeared to be twined about a stalk of bananas which reached the banana exchange here but when the "rope" wriggled employes scattered. By means of a stick, two employes snared the rope ' and found they had a rock "Wars Warm.' the national mot ion picture being shown in Bolivia after three years of production. Is said already to have made a profit. CLOTH COATS IN WINTER MODELS FEATURING FUR Paris Cuaiu ol fur will fre quently have Insets of etoth, or, If you prefer, cloth coats will be large ly mode of fur next winter. At least to Paris shows them In advance winter styles, stressing fur and cloth combinations for after noon coat. The favorite furs for coats are short haired with talllack, broadtail, baby lamb and ermine dyed tray well to the tore. They are combined with black, dark blue and some dark freen. Dyed ermine 1 employed for the Rltsleat form of fur coata for for mal afternoon wear. Ermine of pearl (ray alio trims some of the cloth coats, figurine hi generous upstand ing collars and foresleeves of fur. For town wear Parts show short fur Jackets made on straight lines or fitted In at the waistline with saucy peplums reaching Just to the top of the hips. The short jackets are seal akin, dyed moleskin or garden va riety lapln. The fur beret Is an ac cepted adjunct of the fur coat for next winter. LIGHTED MATCH USED TO SPEED JUMPING BEANS Ban Francisco W It may ne cessitate the formation of the So ciety for the Preventloln of Cruelty to Mobile Vegetables, but its going to be stopped. Matthew MeCurrie, secretary of the San Francisco S. P. C. A, has taken up In all seriousness a com plaint that street corner promoters are using lighted matches and h. garettes at the south and of their jumping beans In the quest for more speed In exhibition races between the ambulant pellets. "I would say generally that I would consider prosecuting the of fenders if entomologists hold that the larvae -are susceptible to en. elty. They have declared in the past that the Jumping pod Is sensitive to a far milder stimulus than llv fire. They -coma from the egg equip ped with a complete nervous sys tem. I wesild certainly think thre would react painfully from fire. They react to eon: extremely low temperature iwifiwi mem - PRESENTING just the sort of clothes that smart women want for all occasions, formal or informal. If you are lured by beauty and captivated by chic if you are impressed by quality and delighted with niceties of detail, then you will be intrigued by our showing of new Fall Fashions. There is an informal presentation by living models Saturday. You can see how these lovely things actually look "on," and judge for yourself. i i i . mm i rr- ii N. IV AW v- - i m m " r m ; ; 1 . IF- I 1 Ak I V fill A I I II 1 f I 'Ml- swm sf !- a r ii lie AAV W l - - - - - :i e I . x i : 3? II I Ik ad Af III kT IT V fl I .V vS3 m mm i j a I i I i b. jea&j mm L?w X. I I r I I WW sTJrwrieer I mm v mm aa siii ijai w?xm p" I mij i ill i x-i v . m mm, . b lit ; A IE ill i ' aaa. 3 a rrf etc! i i i II i I- ; -I LJ NEW FA IL IL IFASIHIIONS . . .and Guide-Post8 to assure a choice Truly Authcnetic ... Coats Flared and fitted lines for coats Bloused and belted lines Dull, suede-like fabrics used Lavish usage of furs Black and color favorite Dresses Below knee for daytime Very long for evening Fitted lines are notable Lingerie touches prevail Blacks, browns, greens, reds Hats... A bit of hair must show this Fall Off-the-face brims . Berets In variety greatly favored Double brims Important Sleek outlines demanded . . . Suits Tweeds bead the Hit Bloused suit Jackets and snug hips Seven-eights coats for sports Tuck in blouses with suits Metal and lacs blouses formal ( jCmw liciwn 1 mom WrifJnv J?wnim Attend the window show at Seven Thirty ---Hear the special program on the street beginning at Eight O'clock - - -Join the fan of "Treasure Hunting" ---Attend the Ad Club Dance ---It will be one big evening of entertainment, put on by Salem's enterprising business firms - Forty Thousand people invited to come! Our Seventeen Windows Miller's seventeen windows will tell the story of au- ' tunin fashions in a most comprehensive manner. They will depict fall 1930 and her interesting new modes - in every detail. . . COATS. . . SUITS. . . EXSEiE- : BLES. .. FROCKS. .. MILLINERY .. FOOTWE AR GLOVES, . . BAGS. . . HOSIERY. . . LINGERIE. . . FOUNDATIONS. .. COSTUME JEWELRY strictly fall 1930: efeTT 3K s5crxrarWMiujR MtHownia cxmpkmv mc? Special Announcement May we call your attention to the special announcement that will appear on the society page of Friday's Capital Journal? It will be over Millers name and will Interest every fashion loving woman and miss In Salem. Windows Unveiled Friday Evening 7:30 1 i I- , i 1 r l : ; ' ! s.'i