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About Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1919-1980 | View Entire Issue (Sept. 18, 1930)
THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 18, 1930 NEW FALL COATS FEATURE GREEN AND BROWN TINT Kafoury's are featuring for the fall opening coats of the popular hades of browns and greens trim med with the new blonde fur that harmonizes so beautifully. The un ique double cape collar that looks not unlike military capes swagger distinctively from some of the smart coats. The ever popular black-and-white combination Is also displayed prominently. And ohl the charming, charm ing things that go with those love ly coats, for Kafoury's have the very nicest things from which to se lect your fall and whiter ensemble. Beads and bags, scarfs, umberellas, gloves, all those really very neces sary accessories that the woman who values her appearance buy to match her coat. And some of the nicest hosiery, with a dull finish that just tells of the up-to-the-minute ideas of the wearer, and which really cost very little at Ka foury's. EMPIRE LINES LOOM FOR FALL (Copyright, 1930, by Style Sources) New York LP) Whether or not waistlines will be elevated to Em pire standards may bear discussion. Many stylists feel great confidence In a revival of Empire lines since their sponsirship by Molyneux and Vionnet. While this line makes its widest appeal for evening frocks it is by no means confined to this type of dress, although more cau tiously presented for afternoon. The season obligingly offers a choice of silhouettes which is as it should be. The Empire type is as sured a certain number of follow ers as are the gowns in the spirit of the gay nineties and of the de mure eighties. The influence of the early 13th century seemed especially well ex pressed by Patou who makes such charming use of the characteristic dropped shoulder to say nothing of his quaint little ermine capes and tiny matching muffs. Not only are little detachable fur capelets listed as among the interesting pos sibilities, but fur yokes are depend ed on to add a fillip to the first cool days. Flat furs are obviously best for the development of these details. The importance of ermine as a trimming can hardly be over emphasized since fur trimmed frocks, as well as suits and coats are expected to score .heavily it is important to remember ermine. It Is the precious rather than novelty furs which are Important in an era so largely influenced by the elegant. TRAVEL PRINT TO FEATURE SHOWING As a feature of their Fall Open ing display the C. J. Bretcr Co. will show dresses of the very new and very popular travel print. Of course, they will have the plain colored ensembles too, with the contrast ing shades of black and white pre dominating. " The featured coats are of broad cloth of a new weave, and made according to the new mode of fit ted wni&ts and flaired skirts with furred collars and cuffs. . RABBIT FUR SPREADS FOR PARISIAN BEDS Paris tPi Pur bedspreads are not lor the many but more than a lew bave them. Furriers have added the bed spread of pelts to their list of man ufactured articles. Rabbit, with hair long or short, It the favorite fur for the bed cov erings. But there Is ermine lor the exclusive few. Lambskin Is also a favorite. For day beds and couches the Fhort haired pelts, Including gazelle and zebra are sought lor modern In teriors. SPIRAL CHOKERS ARE STRUNG ON SPRINGS Paris (flV-The latest version of the slave collar looks like an un wound watch spring only It Is gold or silver Instead of steel. The spring collar is a one-piece ppiral of any destred length and any desired diameter of spiral. Parisians wore spiral chokers of eeds strung on springs with fluffy summer dresses. JABOT DESIGNS ARE USED ON RIBBONS Paris iJV-One dressmaker here likes touches of ribbon In the form of triangular jabots which alternate black and white ribbons or har monizing pastel shades. The ribbons are sewed together to within three Inches of their lenith. Ends are cut diagonally nd allowed to fall as they will. I MONKEY FUR CAPE FOR AFTERNOON WEAR; Paris (JPj A cape of monkey fur Is the three-quarter length wrap ! which accompanies a black and ( white afternoon dress at a dress- i making house which likes to be dif ferent. FIRST LADY FAVORS I TRANSPARENT COATS Washington VP) Mrs. Herbert Hoover has been partial to long coats of transparent material lor summer wear. She often wears a black chiffon coat with her light dresses. It has a chiffon collar which Is loosely knot ted on the shoulder. Austria shipped M00O.00O worth of textiles to the United States This Year of Grace in Fashions Revives "Dressed-Up Periods" in Coats, Dresses and Suits By CRETCHEN THOMSEV Just Imagine that the store which selects your fashions for you has invited you to make a trip to New York with their buyer or stylist and to visit the fashion establishments where the new fall garments are designed and created for you and hundreds of other smart American women. In fancy, see yourself go ing from place to place to dress makers, coat, ensemble aid mil linery houses, seeing the mannikins parade In the fall creations. The designers, who have spent weeks in Paris at openings of famous bouses and who have brought home models to be either copied exactly or adapt ed to suit American tastes and fig ures, are proudly superintending the display and ex: a in in g with great enthusiasm why this model or that, is bound to be the greatest success or telling over .and over again that this is a season of suit ability. PARADE OF STYLES Now you are seated in the show room of a dressmaker (since you are very much interested In dresses at the very beginning of autumn). The procession begins one, two. three, four you catch only a glimpse of something start lingly different the models seem to ap pear in such rapid succession. You are dazzled at first and your only impression Is "Beautiful, beautiful." Then you think, "How slender and graceful it just isn't human for anyone to be so divinely slender. They are all slender exactly the same and they are all tall and graceful and they all have the dain tiest feminine'eurves!" You start to puzzle it out, and at last the light breaks. It is the dresses themselves, not the mannikins it is the way the hips are draped end fitted and then gently stare to flare at the knees that gives that illusion of heavenly slimness. It Is the way the bodices seem to be patterned after same artist's model. It is the scarfs, or the clever trimming on the sleeves, or the panels that give that swaying, willowy grace. Now you are beginning to observe details. You are recovering from the doze of seeing so much In so short a time and you note with interest that dress dfter dress Is touched (you can hardly say trim med) with fur. Little tabs on the corner of jabot or scarf fur but tons, bows or band outlining the neck and how it does flatter the face. What a subtle way to In troduce a little white on black that ermine band on Uie black satin dress. Then all at once the thought seizes you, "Are all the dresses black?" Black satin LVock Canton crepe black and white mix turesblack with a gold metal fleck dozens of black dresses it's frightfully smart but ... ah 1 at last the colors you have heard so much about and you are being told that brown will lead but it will be hard to find anything more glori ously rich and autumn-hln than the vine shades. WnAT'S WHAT IN COATS "Show the line, please, pirls. Its the Fashion to he Feminine! THE NEW STYLES Arrive For The Fall Opening Bringing with them these important variations of the new mode A ntw outfit often acts like a new tonic . . K puts new life and hope In one. Do you like to dress with that quaint fem inine chic, which is so pronounced this fall? Frocks Follow the Feminine Movement The longer length dignifies the new fall dresses. Wider circular skirts are stressed. The normal waistline prevails. Sleeves are extremely Important In their various inter pretations. And the prices are typical Breier value at $5.90 10 $12.45 in. Jr 4 Every Department Smart Ensemble for Autumn Chic and ready for fall Is this young lady. The ht l of green felt, with shallow crown and forehead line high on one side. The four-piece suit is of myrtle green tweed, with a monogram on the collar aa well as the green crepe blouse. The top coat la full length and the Jacket Is of green kasha trimmed with the tweed. You are now in a fashionable coat house pnd because it is your first visit since the fall cpsnins you are to be shown the complete line of coats for all occasions. "Swathed In fur," you whisper. Yes, madame, this is a year if fur trimmings. Fine fur is easy to get tliis year and you are vom? to be as luxurious as you desire. But don't for a moment think it Is just "heaped on" fur because it Is the way your fur is applied that makes your "coat-smartness". There's al ways a trick up fashion's sleeve and this year you will find a good many tricks on fashion's sleeve usually In the way of fur. You see the silhouette Isn't greatly changed except that Moused backs and bol ero effect seem to have crowded out most of the capes but you will see that the fur is manipulated very differently the collars are higher than ever there are novel borders and sleeve effects. You no tice that the coats have the same Feminity Goes to the When It Comes to Hats There Is a good deal of racklshness In the new mlllln ery styles. Off-the-face lines are featured. Beret types still predominate, and felts and velvets are the hats mostly In demand now. BREIER IS SHOWING ALL THE NEW VERSIONS OP THE MILLINERY MODE. WHAT WILL YOU WEAR? $1.98 to $3.98 IT CAN BE DONE . . . AND BREIER IS DO INO IT . . . GIVING YOU MORE STYLE AND MORE VALUE AT OUR USUAL LOW PRICES. N DEPT. STORES V- is Ready with New THE CAPITAL JOURNAL, SALEM, OREGON slenderseffecta as dresses and you wonder audibly) how winter coats can look so sleek and still be warm. "It Is In the weave," you are told, "as well as the way the coats are designed. The large collars and the semi-fitted lines that flare at the hems have a trick of making the waist and hip appear very small. They are also about three inches longer than last year.' A pause to allow you to gasp at the models stepping forth In coats as different from the ones you have just seen, as day from night. They are sturdy looking camel'3 hair, tweeds, boucles, heavy surfaced and when they are not black and white mixtures or brown tints they are frankly colorful. "It is a question of suitability for the occasion," you ate told. "Suitability" are you never going to hear the last of that word? No, my dear, not this year. You will hear It when you buy your coat (not coat), your dresses of silks or satins or velvets for afternoon, your dresses Do you enjoy wearing the new styles while they are still very new? If you do, then let us urge you to come and tee these new fall things, which will prove a revelation economically. Coats Accent the Feminine Note Let us say that we have values that will make coat history. Flared and fitted lines characterize the ma Jority of daytime coats. Callars range from scarfs to capelets. But Breler's prices remain consistently low at $19.75 to $39.50 Head Fall Merchandise PAGE OfJE NEWS SETS STYLE FOR PARIS FASHIONS Paris ( Page one news has Its reflection In the Influence of Rus sia and India on winter styles. Tunics, coats adapted from the Cossack, astrakan round turbans and wide belts pulled In snugly all testify to Parisian consciousness of things Russian, Gandhi's campaign has reminded dressmakers and fabrio makers that India hand blocked prints are rich In color and appropriate for reproduction In silk and wool fab rics. India print tunics are largely limited to sports wear so far. They have been nicknamed Gandhi tunics and Paris expects them to have a big style future. Russian lines and stiff rich metal brocades that the copies of old Russian fabrics characterize a few of the most distinctive winter eve ning wraps. These are velvet lined In rich glowing colors or lined with the same material as the evening dress and bordered with ermine or sable. The Russian-type wraps have open sleeves, slit to the elbow or wide bell sleeves cut to points on the under side. of tweed or wool crepe, simply tailor ed for street or sports. You will hear it when you chooe :. knitted weave ensemble for your daughter to wear on the campus and when you choose her lapin or muskrat coat for the gamesfor you will probably also be shown a coat of 1 , I! 1:1 Ill lift "flW lrT' I The Unveiling of Our Window Displays at 7:30 Friday Night Ushers in the Official, Formal 4 FALL SEASON 1931 With It Comes A Magnificient Showing of COATS & DRESSES The last word and edict of Dame Fashion, embodying all the new features of the coming season. A great selection await? you within ALWAYS GOOD, RELIABLE QUALITIES & CORRECT STYLES caracul or Persian lamb which Is "suitable" for the evening. -ON SUITS AND ENSEMBLES But before we go too deeply Into furs, we will peep Into a showing of suits and ensembles. "Dressy suits first, girls." Mercy, are suits going to suit the occasion? "It all depends upon where you want to wear It," you are advised. "Why, I want to wear It for all daytime occasions you exclaim. "Then madame, I'll select a seven eights length jacket with fur col lar and cuffs and dress to match. Of course, If you wish a suit for the morning and one ft' the after noon, then do not hesitate upon choosing a tweed with hip length or longer Jacket for the activities of the day and a broadcloth or suede cloth with fur border as well as fur collars and cuffs they are so chic and elegant for the smart tea or bridge, especially for the fall and early winter. ... Your day Is over you are tired but thrilled you have seen so much you are bewildered and you are un doubtedly grateful to wake up and realize that after all you do not need to choose your fall fashions from such a vast array. You are feeling thankful for your good reliable fash Ion store right here In your own home town, whose dally experience In sifting out the "suitable" styles makes it possible tor you to choose at your leisure and comfort, from well selected fashions that are sure to be right. A coat this fall Is only as smart as Its silhouette and there are two types to choose from the moulded, gently flaring silhouette and the type with Moused back. The flare Is modified hemline three inches longer than last year furs applied more generously than evtr. STYLES IN DRESS SILHOUETTES Throughout all the various types of dress silhouette and detail one OPENING 255 NORTH LIBERTY STREET COLLEGE MISS FAVORS TWEED COATFOR FALL New York P The college gin who starts in quest of her B. A. this fall also will hope to acquire a B. 8. (Bachelor of Style), for the clothes she wears to class will be as Import ant to her as the marks she receives. The campus girl of 1930-31 may not wear her winter woolens under neath her frock as her grandmother did, but they will be an outstanding note of her class and playtime ward robe, nevertheless. Wool frocks, three-piece suits and coats will be the things she general- feature manifests Itself the smooth hip line. The tunic, bolero, draped neckline and leg-o'-mutton sleeve are the outstanding new features-day-time frocks favor pleats, while formal gowns adhere to flare treat ment. The accepted length for day time is the middle of the calf of the leg, while late afternoon and evening gowns swirl gracefully a round the feet. Canton crepe Is the favorite of silks for afternoon, with satin, velvet and metal embroidered crepe following. Travel tweed and light weight woolens win for tail ored and sports types of frocks. . '. . Ensembles divide themselves Into two classes the dressy type, of smooth velvety fabric, richly fur trimmed, with blouse of metal cloth or satin . . . and the sports or tail ored type of tweed and sturdy wool ens the jacket very long in some cases to the very hem of the skirt, and trimmed with the sports type of fur. Entirely new in style, typify ing the latest creations adopt ed for American women of every taste. ,Yon will find yourt hearts de sire represented here. PAGE SEVEN ly don when the trips to elaf an rrosty mornings or to football game ' Her campus coat may be of mono tone tweed In green, brown, black or blue, collared with raccoon and) lined with dyed rabbit, say style ex perts of John Wanamaker's, which has opened a department catering to needs of the college girL Or she may choose a belted model of alpaca pile, lined with gay polka dot crepe. If she can have a fur coat too, to wear to afternoon teas and such. It may be a seml-fltted model of trim mer or lapin, belted or not, as she likes. It may be short, reaching the hip- ' line or long enough to cover her skirt, according to her figure and her taste. The frocks she wears to class and games may be chosen, from model! galore. There are knitted Jumper frocks, combined white and brown, green or blue in a zig-zag weave; tweed knits topped by double breasted bo leros and finished with patent lea ther be is; three piece Jersey suits with a neat little pointed vest of contrasting color, or a wool tunlo frock with a leather belt When she wants to dress up a bit , for that afternoon date she is ap6 ' to choose a frock of wool lace, a newn fabric of the winter season, or one.) of the colorful silk crepes. , There are crepes of green, Ted, brown and blue, plain or shot with, silver and gold threads, and design-. ed with tunics, boleros and the fit- -ted waistline and modified flaring skirt that mark the winter mode, j A black crepe frock, lightened by ' touches of white at the neck and ' cuffs, will not come amiss In her afternoon wardrobe. The campus girl's hat generally will be small and chic, worn pulled back to make a frame for her face , and tilted a bit to one side to reveal. her softly-waved hair. ' ALWAYS UP TO STANDARD YET INEXPENSIVE last year. 1
