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About Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1919-1980 | View Entire Issue (March 24, 1920)
PAGE TWO. 'K THE CAPITAL JOURNAL v-i.vn..r. . Ij ''" ' ' ; : ". ' ' ' : ; , , ' by Dorthu Duranf - . ; Man would never admit It but the woman of today will nay for herself that ehc la no longer the slave of one luode. No more do the tall, and short, the etout and slender figure have to conform to one mode, the edict of a .group of designers. This is a day of a many aided mode. Not one but many re the silhouettes for Spring . and. emphasis is laid on . variety, In sil houette, In design and In trimming, tuid in all the vastly Important details, variety Is the outstanding feature, and fear costumse are content with a single material or even a single color. The American woman, like the Parlslenne has come to consult her type more and more and admits no one modo to be the orlUii'tan of -her taste. Her one desire in planning her continue is to express her cwn Individuality in a chic manner. Chic .after all, Is merely be ing simple In an artful way, an en ticingly different way. The French de wigners who create It quite daszln you hy their seeming lack of complexity. Jws it not soom that the mind of a child is forever entering Into the smart t-nt of the Imports,? Individuality Iff the keynote of the season, and will go all the way from grandmother's hoops to straight line frocks. Of course, almost all sleeves ro short In varying lengths and skirts liave a em silhouette in spite of the fact that some of them are circular. The length Is rather determined by the Individual tato. The more conserva tive are wearing theirs about shoe toij length while the extremist ' throws eligibility to the winds and flaunts hei-s at nine, ten or even farther from the ground. Crisp rumfes of fspring nre heard In tow taffeta which is holding Its plnce id the fabric most In demand for the " afternoon or the more informal street rii-eos. Vicing with taffeta, however. are the gleaming satins, transparent marquisettes and the soft and cllnglng chlffons and georgettes. A taking afternoon model is one of black taf feta, having skirt fullness and a bodice that might easily be suspected of being a basque. This bodice is semi-fitted and trimmed with embroidery in green and rose silk, while the bindings are In narrow black velvet ribbon, inns giving. "the much desired effect . In diialntness so much In vogue at the moment. The skirt is made with a draped ovwr tunic that Is decidedly full, Thistooi is bound' with velvet and the fullness Is shirred in under an un even and short peplum, that Is really' a part of the bodice, flaring beneath S narrow belt of taffeta. A little dressier are the frocks of Canton Crepe and meteor for which there Is a great demand at the present lime. , Charming Jn'heir simplicity are the lighter frocks of chiffon and (ieorgette In many odd combinations of color. A Jade green chiffon has, a 'harem skirt heavily. beaded the color "deepened in. the tucked side panels. A dainty gown of yellow chiffon Is nseirwlth net and if is a narrow ribbon sash of old blue. Orchid (ieorgette ls'beaded in squares and the skirt gains Its effect of bauf- fancy by plaited ruffles on -the antes from the waist to the 'Turkish hem. The printed chiffons have unusual col or effects brought out by ribbon bolts. The word frock which takes turn about with the spring tallleur Is dar ingly simple- In design,' though ltmu be richly embroidered, or dellhtfully trimmed with ribbon or plnitings of the material used in, a number of dif ferent wnys. Thexe utreet-costumes so charming In their simplicity are chmv act' i'lzi"! by youthfilluess and variety. An interesting feature of a blue nico tine dress' Is the clever lines to be found in the yolk of the skirt.- Above f the wide panel of the back, the blouse fastens' oh the shoulders, with steel balls. Below the skirt is plaited to the yolk of the sides. A suede girdle wraps twice around the waist, then dangles freely In balls and tassels. A charming contrast In color Is made with the pip- , lng of gray crepe de chine. v " ,', -' For the spring tallleur fashion-favors ki suit with a snort or a bell shaped coat with the ektrenie length 'running to the' finger tips. Also the Eton fever with the spring fever comes on us every year. This season; -however,, the recurrent malady seems more virulent to form. In the" longer coat Si models the designers have attempted to ignore the belt but It has persisted despite the efforts to make the unbelted coat the mode of the spring. Besides the tail ored suit, novelties In combinations of material are fascinating and different. One of this type has a coat of duvetyn, In a soft, dark shade of brown, stitched fn a mauve silk, and mauve colored thistle-dew or silk ratine makes the tflifrt a pleasing contrast. But what are the fair prophecies of 2 UreOSO orsn Womens Coats We welcome you to our assemblage of spring: fashions in women's outer wear. Thin will give you the opportunity of gain ing a really comprehensive view of the reason's style-tendencies, from a gather variety, unquestionable correctness of ing of surpassing interest in breadth of style, unquestionable quality of fabrics and workmanship, and that unquestion able excellence of value that will appeal tovery vistor. $19.75 TOS75.00 m. t - ness ef Its design, for it Is unmistak ably reminiscent of olden duys. This English sateen,.s a fabric as soft and pliable as charmeuse and Its patterns are -taken fronj rare old prints. Closely following the English sateens In new ness and charm are flowered organd ies, dotted Swiss, checked voiles and ratine In new designs In a brilliant as sortment of plain colora The popular English prints retain their popularity this Spring, and the same designs will bo displayed in a 'new fabric, a soft, silky muslin, called tropical silk. One of the liveliest of these has a design of prim little forget-me-nots in blues and greens, and a suspicion of mauve, outline In black and printed very ehfKly together, 5 I'lalris have come back. In velours and serge they are either made plain or plaited in accordeon, knife or box plaits, in the smartest of separate sport skirts. Most ofyhese come in the soft dark shades of blue, brown and green combined with the lighter shades In gray and mauve. With a skirt o this kind is worn a short tailored sport coat and under It the softest sort of blouse In red is another lovely summer blouse which fasteiw Invistblp down the front under a box plait. Knife-plaited frills of eeru footing border thls'center pluit, and vthe turned back collar as well. Madoria all over embroidery Is anothi- modish fabric. And when an eye- letted design Is used for the bodice and white organdy for the sleeves, and there are knife-plaited . frills around the neck; hem. and sleeves the blouse one to covet and wear with, a suit or a simple organdy skirt, ' ' ;Jn the bright colored sport skirts for summer wear besides the usual tailored of the Waist, are trimmed with double smiling summer skies'? It is the wise, in pussy willow, sating crepe de chines, M-,imin lt-l.it Ini.ll. tl.n. nnll . ... ......... woman who looks that far ahead and plans her summer frocks airy and light in color and texture. A wonderfully new and complete assortment of cot ton fabrics are gaily suggestive of sun ny davs. But even in the bewitching collection of sheernetsa and color, one charming material stands out 'from the others because of Its Individuality iiond because of the old-time quaint- or in one of the exquisite tub fabrics. In these embroidered voiles, dotted Swisses and dimities are among the season's fancies. One very smart model bears a striking design in black and red embroidery on a white ground. Une white pique cleverly forms the rolling collar, waistcoat and turned back cuffs, each of which Is aggrcs slvely held in position by a single pearl M, . . . IS mm it if'- iw Hi Mp XL ley9s - READY TO WEAR READY TO USE Merchandise and articles for Fem inine wear: Coats, Suits, Dresses, Petti coats, Blouses, Kimonas, Corsets, Mus lin Underwear, Carter's Knit -Underwear, . Kayser's Knit Underwear, Wo men's, Misses' aand Children's .Sweaters, Children's 'tt-esses, House Dresses, Bun galow '. prons, Phoenix Hosieryv'Onyx Hosiery,!! Umbrellas, Toilet ArticleaSta .tineriXankee Notions, Neckwear, Eib bons,;Gfove,, Leather Purses, Pariesian ffl ..... Womjs wear nd articles exclusively. 5 " r m . ; 1 ; . r i ".i -v F'S:; v.V r..: - . - ; m m button. Then of camy Swiss, dotted tired of It, and new versions are com- stantly being seen both for street an for evening wear. Braid Liberally Used This Spring iraiu is used in many ways this spring that justify the repeated use of the adjective fascinating. Silk soutache in vermicelli pattern is employ.ed in the decoration of a soft brown satin with straight gathered Bkirt and a waist that falls almost to the hips. The sleev es, cut in one with the front and back moaets. there are a number of the more than unusual kind In silks. One of these is a box plaited pongee which gives freedom of movement ' without destroying the desired straight' silhou ette and then also those in accordeon plaited crepe de chine in white and In fancy sort material as HujnM-Kumsl ran-Ta-SI and Trieolettes. As for the cape it would be a serious error tq imagine that its smartness Is in the-least imnaired. for nn ntio Vine frills of Relf-malertal, also handsomely braided. The neck Is cut into a deep V and hiis a vest oi plain georgette. Again braid IS used in the effect of narrow bands on a frock of pale blue organdy. The tunic is gathered at the sides and thrown over the girdle In a arrangement. Irresistible In Its iiv.ou- cienee. The 'sleeves, though sh'ort. -are set Into the waist, which has the round neck finished at the back with a turn down roll collar. Expenditures 'Are -: Topic For Senate Washington, .Mar. Government expenditures were discussed in the sen ate again today, Senator Lodge, the republican leader, and Senator Smoot, republican, Utah, .attacking a proposl in the annual agricultural bill for ere tio of a new government bureautin charge of farm management. Beading -aonis estimates Sena'or Smoot suld congress was asked to im propriate $u,5uiui00,0u0 for mainte nance of the government next year.. - " Villa captures and holds the Ameri cans until they tell him all the news. He'll get fooled If he ever captures Col onel House. Toledo Blade. 4 There are still a M of Tod slil fashioned homes in America wherethe daughter of the house Is learning to play tlie piano Instead of the ooija board. Syracuse Herald. Style? Here 'it is Quality? 5fV'.:f Here it is Workmanship? Here It Is Value? Here It Is ensure in what we Wk . ----- i . , . ..i.aievw you asK trtat a suit should be yoi will find it jn generous mea have gathered-here for;. your choosing. , You can buy any' garmenf.in .full confidence it is the best of its kind obtai'nabfe t the price for it represeirts .-weeks of the most deliberate sifting and selecting, on our part-. We had to consider not only style, material, workmanship, fit and' price' but "many, others ' lhings- Particularly we had to carry with us" and keep in our minds mentifl !.:pictur 4 . every one of our customers with their likes and dislikes, their known needs,' their .jar chasing power-to assemble not our preferences but yours; to be sure that ewrflf here will lbe in th eunquestionable mode when you visit New York or Chicago, or Coronado. WHERE SHOPPING IS A PLEASURE