TWELVE PAGES
DAILY EAST OnfeQONTAN, 6ftE(30R Tt)pi6A AUGUST1 2i, it)iO. " j'AGE slrviiM
- 17 -T $k . ,,;
: L .'.' v'- m ' ! ;N N : ' :;: .mw
Vcy .-Ml'-.-:.1 . " "i'i t .''w, 1 " .'.'vr-'v-ii ..t; - i
l .v i'l,?--' X Sy-aJTZ - r Aj?ranemerJL ' - j
I
ThGvfes?pirv.LVinov
SufiLaLion onthi3 Hat
i3 Very ?msrl
Jjideand Pistache Green the.
Paris-Favored Millinery
inj;!y But Cleverly Used!
Half-Burnt Ostrich a New
Millinery Whinisey New i
llai Shapes Large and
With Kalher Low Crowns.
STKJCSK Inttreat U ulyr by
mlritty In the v: v Mrm iui
-mi hula (hat venture tout Orly
Aurnst. The woman at th
it: i me i resort who returnA after a
- y In town Is ih renter of attention
when ifie decrlbos the 8fnnn:nr new
' full hat rhc auw In a rtitaurant or on
fifth Arlnue. The fvme hat trouM
t tract little notice later In Die eu-snn:
hut there Ik alweya a tlirlll In ihv
femiln breast at the very first mil
linery models that appear us harbiiif
trn of what in to rome. And It t
tranfre -how passe and unlmcrpMtinff
vtn thf mot beautiful aumnier hat
fee m once fnir mlDInrtrv boclnw to
hov Itf velvets and fntin?r und felt.
, rll Itf In firrnt Niimt'r for Fall
Paris la tilnfr a great Avul of felt
-upple, flf-xible ft-It thai inuv be w(st
rd and ,'drapei and even mnfn' Into
ru rtlea. An In t eresi I trie h a t fro m a
French Utillhnpr hixn n vrv nt;tll tur
ban foundation. Jut framing th hcud
; with a Mltle rol-iip. Inch-wide Itrlm
of velvet, I tut the stlhouH In cif t h
hat i enoruioii.. for ihre rrirlcs tit
f(lL flr 'ipwaril forming n hirjce. tnpi
cfown. The hut and Hie frti rtnflf.!
hre copper colored und a lnjr flower
of white I tucked wnf nf side
tf the Jfntnes. fhrowIiiK the opposite
mde of 1 he crown oti I ward tn tutu
f,ihlon. ,
A yreat mnny of t;i It h it i.re In
iwie green mhadr. Piafucho la n fav
ir"il tint; and j.tde Ik a!o vcrv popu
U'r. )np very jm.irt Kremrh tirl:in
of pintache frit hn-n loinr wlnir m
ixactly the anme !i.ide toUTine flailvj- ,
;trroM tie up. lon?r imI1In prnjeciiim i trlminlnr. A little le made to jco a
;-t one aide. A J.ide Kreen fell wtlor : long wv and frir once the nilll;ner
has the wine onrn ruppf-d, axray at ( ure benevoieritjy doinc; oiHeh:ng Mutt
bn. k and front and n .th sprei.dina i a-c0rUa with practical 'ideas! An m-
jmrllon?. -re , J;l;'e rcrn vlv: tnre of Mnotny in trimming e
ftAU'rra. ipl'" 'iuel th U k.v over . and , ,..,..
n.!., ,he h.... ThU. c:.ly Brop" f"W , L" , hla;',k v."v'' '",t"r"
tr.r,nuTi o( flower, an Hie brim I J bM wl,h " onr "" ""'h fruihvi
!j n :n nn rf hu pirrrd. a ! roun1 to ntuke ort at pom
lwh!nic Vupoltonle lnpe of rinna- Pon Stnt the crown !n front. Ha'
'mn brown vgIxi!. Oh he tumrtt 1 v" M , admit there Is a Ein:irtiiM tn
'jle brim In front ' ar tlvr rj ftitu 'rriiimnnt tlmt cotit.l hnrdlv
'" cio-f.y mujn nnu itmuinii he turpaiKfrt . with feverul van! of
, cf Silver w&is?
Black VeKreiL N.a V iLK
4- . it
L.ilUe Turban
cP Black',
and Gold
Ey?Dtiide '
i
-A .WfS Ka D-"hifi
r-' im.juf m-ini ni" - -
9 . ,
..a uMijiwmajL
7
lf 1
nrrr- memm . . j rn
and taupe come n xt In frtvor.
f pale fcrcrn ha;s are usuallv of sof:
jc!:. and whn deep pren 'la added it
is by way of a. smull foather ornament.
Dainty White Ifft-si for I,ttc Suinrm-r
I.lttle white hats that show tl.eir
autumfr "Hewitt by their material
felt and fathers, or velvet and feath
ors ar "appear in 7 a the conn:r?
club and the town restaurants -fh
inldsnmmcr costumes of white linen
And you cannot have anything jruart
r juii.t n-ow than spotless white tin n:
talloi-d if you plea.'-r. wi h bi'tton
t;nim!ai5: or In !oho, graceful blou.te
lyl5 with bud; of dun.? lace. W'Jh
these oiclualve lintn -fiiiunie's the lit
tle whl liata of iry autumn arV
decided; attracitve. They are In tnr.
ban style come f;'.r over the
eye. A flprk haired -omnn at a
fashionable hotel -rvare on of these
dainty while turbans the other evening-,
with a bloupe" of oyster white linn
knd a Skirt of pale flo?h tinted baronet
natlh. The hat van made of swathed
layers of soft white felt and filet lace,
the laco droopinir beyond the' brim
over dark hair and eyes. A pair of
long white earrings jravs t final touch
of chic. Another little whfte turban
straight from Paris-Ms almost cov
ered .with half burnt white ostrich and
clusters of while grapes nestle amid
the ostrich.
Black And WtiIto Hats Smart As Fiver
Eve"ry aeasoti brings out its models
tn bluxk and white millinery; and they
always seem to be popular. A stun-I
nK hat In this combination ts pic-
tured on .today's page; a b:g pressed
beaver shape, wider xit the aides than
at front or back. A beautiful white
ostrich feather trails over the riht
aide of the brim and .closely curled
ostrich, in a narrow band, encircles
ihe crown. A hat like this was worn
at a country club Affair last week,
with a very smart new frock of black
satin trinrmed with white stitching
and white bone burtons and loops.
The draped kirt drew in around the
ankles but revealed Fashion's ktet
word in footwear: hifth heeled mack
boots with buttoned top of silky black
brocade fabric. With the autumn hats
life coming buttoned boots for autumn
days, and the new boot models are
very attractive with their slender lines I
ahd their smooth, dainty fit over ankle,
and instep. .1
CoiffureProblems In
Midsummer.1
V iT'"ATf:L,r for iost 3t H
ii. ore fashionable to wear f
hnt than to go without CM ta
d .y time hoi-M. in summer Uloe.
poit hat.- aro o tmart and so becm
'11S that there aoems plenty of gcax4
for wcanins Dr.-m -even .t braaJBl
and mid-day dinner at the sumiMf
hoiol- 1; ono gne-'ses chat ta
reason fnr L popularity of ha at A
summer resort is thc:r excellent ied
ity of completely hiding1 the ootlur
Only very luxuriant and beautiful
hair, or very curly hair, will s taael lata
conditions of midsummer the evltrr
humid atmosphere, tho h!s.iB
breezes; the dampnej of east wtnd3 etf
the sea and the btnzing sun. ISlowaa
about hair is not pretty or becomla
unlem It is curly hair and the Caca St
frames 1 young, ,
J The hair must be shampooed often?
In summer time, to overcome the S
fects of dampness !n the air, duat aael
also of perspiration of the head., .JkAlk
!t should, each day, be treated t 4
breeze bath unbound and allowed (
fall freely over the shoulders ae taat
the breeze may get at very bit of? It
clear to the roots. Faded hair shou!4l
not be exposed to the full glare e-f
sunlight which bleaches out hair
while it adds color to complexion
If you take the trouble to curl yovf
hair while at the seashore, take tfca
trouble also, to adjust a net lightly
over the patiently made waves. Thf)
net somehow or other manages to keey
the hair In. curt; at least it keeps tn
waved locks in position and they tf
not straighten out and cling to ta
head as they would without the slight
support. .. If you simply must ha
curls and waves for the evening, 4e
your hair up in whatever patent cart
ers you prefer and wear an artificial
transformation over them, donning
mushroom brim sport hat over all
When you take off the hat and the
transformation before dressing for the)
evening meal, the natural hair will
ntce!v wm-fd and "trill probably "stay
in cur" through the evemner.
ni ornament ail acroaa the hat,
tiiinrrmia To Her I'aCort
. . r .tio talta it a p.-rcy ttlrl ivith
iIiy nw itrp-vuintaJ hat orna-
ri.nra will hr !o h un !.la tuird.
b tmy L a'.hbt.,4. 'T-rajaothiR
hatpin 'w-.r. n. a r.!rvmtnnce to
, til larit, t.arjr noiva Out jlioot out
frern fimlaJn, nilllinrrr ,ut now. A
rati brim a.illor of a.ak and iroWl
. knead,, pictured, ha o of tlie
4la(er like ornumrniH p.atorttnfr from
. tfca front of tha brim. It would be a
'fcrtTe gallant Indeed who would at-
Mnpt to ateitl a tilft with it jpine or
.'IMi aort rendy to rut n jrith In hie
tek! The roll brim turbart promlw
1a be a favorite for enrlv autumn and
type of hat la becoming to almoin -
'4)11 women. II Kik 'a youthful
-ai and looka miart under a lirfoothly
j.rawn back veil, or . Jiose fleailna
.tie. Some of these turbana are of
.ipietnl hroeade, like the one In the
picture:, others ars f velvet wlih
"nrora-llned hrlniA. 'The trlinnilnt Is
rually very ilmple. (
To Kiiy A Hat Whrn Vou Srv
One Vou Mko
, , .11 will be the part (if wisdom fhl
fr to. buy a hnt InMnnily when 11
jilfHJtl you. Miiterlnla are eo uraiee
v, In I'arla lieraise'of ihe rlirBrulty In
' (telling ekllled Inbor. ihat ufter the
llr!t ta.inilnia nfe so'd out they ,on
It lM tlupllrlltcd. The ftrat htV
.tharWa- will have an itidlvldiiellty
ithar will niko for Kpecli.1 dlyiinrtlon
land If fit h.imn to ee one that
rnit yar faiec nn'yW Kcjtliook.
ifn-iti It wo m om-p yno mny he sorry I
:i(utou d aw. Baaaiusa f tk ararciiy
r.l tha Mgti atea of aninfry ami
oatrtrh trillimtnif drapo-1 iiound the
crown. The hat 1 blai k and the if:t.v
little' ostrich feather-la hriirlit irreen
It niakea a wonderful touch of color
and Interest on the big black hut.
Thl? ntodet hax the collupaihle crown
that la aeen on aiinoat' nil the larec
ahapes for autttntn. The new hata have
m brtma' ioiisrh (he width ia from
side to aide, with a short diaiawter
'from front to back. and crowns ure
rather lat-fre, low and collapsible. ,
Half Burnt OetilHi Is Nt w
Parla la always finding something
new to do with feathers and the aonu.
tftltifc new, thla season. Is going to b
half burnt ostrich. The process re
moir1'of h'te fluea so that-a fenih
r Is thtrtlnefl pit to transpateiicy and
.4) .Ikcjr kauij' ..Direct. Is given. The
amall hai wUlt; helter-skelter feather
trlnihilVig Is an exumplk In point. Tur
ban and feathers are in taupe color
and the odd ribbon ornament la Peking
blue. Narrow ribbon is twisted und
folded, around a triangular, i-ibbon-cm-ered
cubuchon and aslmj1 as It is.
the arrangement Is tremendously clilc.
Another' turbah trimmed wlih half
burnt ostrich Is pictured; a small
shape of. gray velvet which .comes
down very low bver th eyes and has
a scoop effect at the front. ' The gray
feathers are dashed with coral red
nnd the vivid color gives great smur'-
nes-to the. little -pray chapeaii. These
ttu-hans trimmed with soft, shairgv
ostrich are sometimes rovered wuh
lnrae. square veils that fht-len down
ihe rmtlrer trimming, the rail Inokinir
as though It wera Hmwb mr a tuny
rvahian. Itnt tha ari la rrmralasf
deeM4ty iwxst. Manw KM m.
1 tT tlic cleverest blou--e tii iric
.orld, worn wirh the most art
.'itlly :cui ?fUlrt, cr.n biok quite
.is ell oh a stout woman a a
onp-plcce . f.'oi'. ' Thut . she httlst
malic up her mind in. The shimvutsi.
Trim lines end far do not go to- scemj that flsure.. A 'tlchtly Strained
rethor. Sometimes an accomplished sh'ftwaist, revealing the contour of the
tnilor.or modiste can wchieve the hlI cun make eTin Bender woman
uilracic: but the achievement is-; faJ on, a little fat. i Have your blouse
eyond I lie pow er3 or rt reudy-made
-hirl waist of ordinary tyie. So if yoii
ia a ararineni ditwily cbpied rro.il thejaro stout I bes or ou do not ga t
niaai-ullne ah'.ru and the mbre boyish j oruinaty watsi-counlers and select or
a feminine Iikuic, the rtni.-r in line dtnary . blouses or, even expensive
and les curved in i-otnotirs, the more i blouses In the -stereotyped sires. Go
will any shirtwuiftt ni any hlon.-e be-llnsleid to some shop, or some depttri.
come It. liut' u fiiiinirie w.iTdrobe I ntent In a large store where special
without separate alsts -lilnuacs styles fur large figures are carried,
shirtwaist., whatever yiu like to call j These biowae have an entirely differ
ihoni. Is unthinkable. Wanan mtia!eiit cut, and the propoitlons of the
have shirtwaists ft.r near sc.-ue of the' fltrure that owe Ihs lareeaess to fat
tirtie; the canriiit be,, rore v. r In one , have aeen eafcftilly considered. There
ftiece costultH.-; so the i.ssi ntial pro- is room at ross the shoulders and bust
feeding is to nitike the ii yDiK shlrt: j without that diatreiwinK faH-over look
waist as becomlnvr as possible. . tut the top of the armhole which an
' 12k-nl kll-ldnd hnvrt t,uti maHn 'In ! lll-diliarv for'V-fOtir WSiSl. tnkes Ml H
this direction of Int venrs; The r'trht i vonian who' la merely lar)e.busted .en on whom the modern elastle-at-the-
- . . ... . . k . .. 1. . j l -1 i waist hltae will tint crime down far
ramies ana ine iigm lines titu e necn 1 nnu nuw a rmnrr iiui-i-uw ann cli - -
put Into blouses for .utrgx'r' women: I Shnnider. The eblinrs fit smoothVy! enough. I'ft the skirt to meet the edae
loose enoUt;h to drape Itself from the
shoulders: and th:s with a shoulder
line that docs not droop over the top
of the aim.- The .armfcole should be
roomy enough, to be comfortable but
should not :bc too kirgiv for the olouse
mus; not sat? at ti;5 sides below i!u
arm, but make a. straight, trim line
o the holt. . ...
Tl.c location ofi the . waistline Is a
very Important poiiit. Most siout
women wear their skirt-belts, much too
hiKh. Tt'.iiors cut thepi that w-ay now
bi,t It Is better to hVe the top of thf
tallnred skirt reshaped a llttlo, g-ivlng
a loitpor waistline. Many stout worn
Itn haln th frct nf inns lines. One
6f the pictured blouses la of whl'e
crepe de chine with fine tucking and
rows of tiny pearl buttons. The good
fit, the' trim neatness and careful fin
ish of all details, make this a very
excellent model. The other blouse, for
afternoon wear with the tailor suit,
! of dark chlflon with narrow
straight edge bands of liglrer t-hiff .
and lines of embroidery on pici- -down
the front. Ilemstflehing a'l-1-
1 w .
of the hlouFO and fusion the skirt belt
ilphtly -to' keep it up. This ts the
worst possible way to ,wenr a blouse
Iriste,Rd. have the sk'rt belt m:ide very
loose iind drop t.he, skirt lower on the
figure: fhen find h blouse- that has
enough matcinr tri extend under the
skirt belt. There art; puh blouses
DM aM Mt Ttrttltsi iHmilr1gnlVi W V0 m
ttnd there has ht-en trty .nf piopor-1 without emplng. at tha sides of the
Mons us we!!. All feminine, -biousey t heclt, nnd the, ieeves "tnpor s ft stout
for shirt waist?) used to be mil on one j vvotuan'a sleeve.- should taper, from a
moool- the model of a ptVffrt ly i very roomy armhule to a near lit itt
formed, not too welt developed flgurV. ( the wrlMt. The overage woman whp Is
The only variation was in the matter n.erfly stout -not lufge of frame
of size. If one w ere a perfcT htriy- ! knows how !eeves of reariy-mdg
ai n- fnrfv-twft nr ven fort v-f on r. i bl o uses usuallv fit." ' The MCtnUV ffirtv-
aiiy blouse of jhat size WAui an-1 four waist that Is big enough to drape' nrtw; maPV of ,hem ,he- aloriHl
wer: but while thre are many, many ! properly ocrosa the -bu-sf sleeves 1 ' es "a pernnp mnnurciurera w::i j
(hat are Inches too long and mllos too:nnv ,ne tro0J Rnse soon to prov.ue
big beloW the elbow. i more in the dressy styles before long.
All these faults r corrected In ; There is frying ned for them nnd for
the special waists for large. nj:ure. ! :in elimination of, that chopped-off.
nnd thoiKfh you do p.-.y slightly niori Plastic run effect In all waists over
for t hese models, tht-y are jt-el! wof'nl '"e forty s.e! t :
the extra coat;-Tor r.f all things on j AlaterlaJ 1$ nnoihor Important thing
earth a blouse should have fit and j to consider In blouses, for the stout
trlntness -whon It is worn hy a. stout ; ffomun. Soft fubrlca are much the
figure! ' 1 j moat becoming, and fabrics that have
Never nI'-ct a blhilse that hiis riot ; little gloss und.no decided pnttern
some fullness uf" ; the ' front of he .Ve,. er. rever stiould a. stout woman
!ioulder. This fuflness may be nddv-d j wear plaid silk waists- or gingham
iti tucks, pleats or gathers eo Ions as waists, or even ..cross-barred lawn
'.he -tucks or pleats are no stl: hi d . Wul? ts. For her am crepe de chines,
all. ,th -Wsy down the fruits. The tieorgftte crencs, soft tub silks, striped
It fxaafeaSlt the witl'ie look :oo high , more ionieiy a blouse seems to hang . dmittv and plain bn'Kte or handkr
itr tatwojafar ic of the llgure. Ion the fituiA. reomcr Uie slip.mer i cUJf i.nc-u m croups of smJ tucks
.-I . -
;' ..'
perfect thirty-siyes nnd thirty-eights:
few Indeed are t.hi- perron rorty-roura!
A perfectly forpied woman of tht
hltce would be a handtom Amaaon.
One sees a tffw such, hut nm many.
Usually the pnsessor of. a for'y-fout
figure aears the large sire because
she has grown stoat .and aolhlng
mailer w.ll answer. And accumu
lated fat rerriy distributes Itself In
tha right places. I- pads out he shoul
der blades and adds - unbecoming
tnches to the bust measure: it puts
cushions under the onus so that they
mut be carried nf a little anglt out
from t-aa hoily: and almost 'r.varlably
2hi.'.i"'t.,U
,-'...' ''4
x , -A ' 44 -i
.": S.i-Jt- '!,'. . ; " ;-s'. 4 Vf
Eirt'-lte Xcafnits And Dainty Work-m-iashiji
FUiouliI Uis:liu;til.ili ; T
WliMe Shii-tnnLst Worn Ity A Stoat
Woman. Itolh Conditions Are V
illni Ky This mouse Of Whlto
Cw pc dc Chiur. -
Its touch of daintiness al.o, and tha
V shaped fold of material endinar ha
a tns.ol at the front 1 a becoming?
detail for a stout figure. Tha staot
woman shouU' not wear too elaborate .
or too decoh fte a brassier unfar
her chtfron blnue: but a whole llatnaT
diiffuti Itlotnos A,' HrminliigT To
Ijtrgc Figures BtTanse or llje -ari.
nesa tf The Material. This Itlotise i of very thin silk or chiffon: nnd
or Uruaii t-liimm Has Triinminir this a well fitting brasjucra that Mil
Bauds Of rale Bull, I Ui figure trlml'
. ''v .tsat
mm ifti wi.eiiHaje ana