HE shortening days and the crisp
ness in the early morning and
evening air should give warn
ing of the approaching cooler
weather, when heavier clothes, for
out of doors at least, w ill be needed.
For general utility wear the suits
are severe in their plainness, the skirts
short and straight in outline, their
severity sometimes relieved by plaits
let in at the side seams, or there may
be circular bands which are cut so as
to show the slightest possible flare.
Coats for these plain suits tit more
closely than they have and vary in
length from 26 to 32 inches. They are
seen both in single and double breast
ed effects, and there is a great variety
of collars. There is the usual notch
ed kind, and the narrow shawl collar,
showing a low opening, and there are
broad sloping revers in the front, with
the back showing a sailor effect, or
perhaps the collar w ill shape into a
point in the middle back and be fin
ished on the end with a tassel. W hile
the materials for these fall suits are
rather somber than otherwise in tone,
this is relieved by the brightness of
the trimmings.
T
Dress Accessories.
The collar, revers and cuffs of a suit
In a solid color may be of a stripe
or plaid, then of course there
are
those that are entirely in one tone.
Satin, silk, serge, which is another
name for surah, and the usual stand
ard cloths as well as many
new
weaves are qn display in the shops.
Scotch tweed and delightfully soft and
beautiful silk and wool mixtures will
be favorite materials. Braid and but
tons of every description are popular
for trimming.
The making of a suit is consider
ably easier at present than it often
is because interlinings are to be used.
and little or no canvas, the Idea being
to keep It as soft and limp In effect
as can be.
One of the serges showing a sort of
invisible stripe or check w ill be at
tractive for a suit Intended for real
rervice. Brown or blue, whichever is
more becoming, w ill be all right for
the color, and the skirt can be cut in
six gores. There is a seam down the
middle front showing an inverted
plait, and the rest of the seams are
plain and straight in effect, except
ing the one In the middle back, and
thia baa an inverted plait, matching
th at in the fro n t
The jacket is 28 inches long, has a
low opening. Is single breasted, and
the neck is finished with a narrow
shawl collar. There Is no middle back
seam, but one starting in the middle
o f each shoulder, on back and fronts.
The sleeves are full length and close
fitting. I t is only on the dreisler suits
that the sleeves are three-quarter
length, and another feature la the
raised waist line, which shows on a
great many of them.
In Contrasting Color.
On a dark fall suit it w ill look well
to have a collar, cuffs, etc., made of
the same material In gome contrasting
color— white on a dark blue will be
good style, and satin, taffeta, or broad
cloth can be used if preferred. And
fo r women who do not care for such
contrasts, black satin or velvet, or
eith er of these materials in the same
tone as the suit, w ill be appreciated.
Theae large collars need only be
cut of the material, not using even a
muslin interlining. O f course, if the
m a teria l Is so light in weight that
the m aterial w ill look mussed and
w rinkled something w ill have to be
used. But the Idea Is to avoid all ap
pearance of stiffness.
In making a coat It hag always been
recommended In these articles that
the first cutting should be from ordi
nary cheap w hite muslin. This save*
time In the end, bedause all the fit
ting 1$ done with the muslin, and
when you are working with the more
difficult material there should be no
ripping or refitting to be done. It Is
also a great assistance in keeping the
coat materials fresh looking.
In fitting either single or double
breasted coats the fastening down the
front should be perfectly msde, and sa
fsr down as the coat will ever be fas
tened. This should be seen to before
the cost Is looked over or touched,
and from time to time give a glance
to the fastening to see that it Is In
tact. F it the coat into the figure slight
ly on all the seams and be sure that
the dart seams on the front do not
bulge too much.
Points to Considtr.
Another important point is to see
that there Is ample room over the
bust, and this' can be accomplished
without curving the bust line seam in
an unsightly manner. When the real
coat is being made tt should be tried
on after the seams have been basted
together, even though you do not ex
pect to find that any changes w ill be
in order. Then stitch all seams, but
the under arm and shoulder seams
and try on again. It is absolutely nec
essary that all basting should be done
in small, even running stitches.
Careless workers baste any way,
which often means that the material
gaps between many of the stitches,
and then when the stitching has been
done they are surprised to find the
coat or whatever they are making is
much too tight. Another common mis
take Is that in fitting the fronts are
not perfectly closed, so that when
the coat is done it sets badly
if
closed down the
front, sometimes
seeming to bulge toward the top, and
sometimes so tight over the hips that
it has to be left open.
The same thing often happens to a
skirt in the baud at the waist, and In
the general fit from the waist to be
low the hips. How often one sees the
plaits at the back of the skirt fall
wide apart Instead of failing togeth
er as they should. Where the plaits
are basted firmly in place and the
placket fastened as it should be it
would have been seen at once that the
skirt was toe tight and the seams over
the sides would have been let out as
they should have been.
To Get Proper Finish.
After the seams are finished on the
coat pin it together right side out so
that all corresponding places meet. By
this is meant armholes, neck opening,
and lower edge as well as fronts. The
seams are supposed to be perfectly
even unless there should be some ir
regularity In the figure which had to
be provided for, so that the pinning to
gether must be at the seams, and if
this shows irregularity in any of the
edges, even one by the other, always
being careful not to trim ‘away too
much. The armhoies for the medium
sized coat measure about IT inches,
and if the outline is good and the
armhole still a little close try stretch
ing it gently where it curves on
the front.
In cutting the collar out first meas
ure the neck to see that it w ill be long
enough, and if a material is used that
ravels easily there w ill be real trou
ble unless the cutting is perfect, the
seam lines clearly marked, and the
handling of the lightest and most del
icate. Baste the middle back seam
of the upper or under part together
and baste to the coat so that the seam
comes on the right side. In basting
hold the coat next to you, pin the mid
dle of the collar to the middle of the
back of the coat, then pin It at the
ends and finally baste. The turning
or rolling line should be distinct, so
that the collar can be shaped before a
trying on. Any looseness or tightness
is changed on the seam at the back.
The middle seam Is stitched on un
der the upper sections, the seams are
pressed open, then holding the two
parts together with right sides Inside
they are pinned together in the middle
and at the ends, then basted and
stitched. Take the basting out, then
lay the seam on a clean broom handle
and press It open. Turn the collar
right side out and you w ill find it easy
to make a good turning at the seam.
For the Notched Coltsr.
The notched collar is made diffi
cult to handle. Do not attempt to cut
one out without a good pattern and
then follow directions exactly about
tbe grain of the cloth, etc. The revers
on the coat front run up and meet
part of the collar, and for this a thin
canvas must be used.
Steel trimmings are being consider
ably talked of for autumn and win
ter. Attention has been called to nov
elty marquisettes with steel bead bor
ders, woven In like an embroidery. A
heavy Intermingling of small cut steel
beads is noted among the newest pat
tern« in beaded work. The steel color
ing looks well In conjunction with the
fashionable color tones of the mo
ment.
Cut steel mountings and trimmings
are appearing on many new purses and
handbags. In fact, indications point
toward a general movement In steel
beads and steel ornaments.
A very lovely tea gown seen recent
ly was carried out In blue crepe de
chine, veiled with mauve nlnon, the
folds of the nlnon of emerald green
velvet. Fringed draperies are also a
leading feature, and there Is quite a
demand for the tea gown of broderic
Anglais« or Maderla embroidery. The
foundation of the garment in this case
Is of washing satin, or even cotton
crepon In some dainty coloring, and a
long coat or loosely fitting tunic of
the embroidery Is worn over it, and
laced across the waist with black vel
vet drawn through two sets of large
eyelet boles.
The illustration shows a pastel blue
cloth costume with soutache of the
same color.
FRAMES ARE BIG FACTOR IN
GROWING TRUCK GARDEN STUFF
Keen
C o m p e titio n a n d C o n s t a n t ly In c r e a s in g D e m a n d fug
H i g h - G r a d e P r o d u c t s O u t o f S e a s o n M a k e s i t N ec
e s s a r y to P r o v i d e S p e c ia l F a c il it i e s
f o r S e c u r in g V e g e t a b le * .
+ THE ■!-
SCBAP
BOOK
Yearo of Suffering
C a ta rr h a n d O lo o d D laeaaa —
D o cto rs Polled to C u re .
M ita Mabel F. Dawkins, 121« Lafsy-
site Mt.. Fort W ayne, lm l.. writes)
“ For three years 1 was truubied w ith
catarrh and blood disease. 1 tried sev
eral doctors and a dtoen different rem
edies, but none of then* dltl .uie any
good. A friend (old hie of Hood's Mar-
sao«rIlia, 1 InoM two bottles of this
medicine and was as w ell and attong
SB aver. I feel like a dtftprent person
and recommend liood'a to any uus suf
fering from catarrh."
(le t It today In usual liquid form or
chocolated tubists called B a rs atab a-
WE BUY OLD GOLD
Httft'xot |»r**r® ivald fur M tv a r, O ld ia w e trv . G o ld
( • • I h . t l * . llN C le K M Y K H.
l ’wrtv xw®i® m
Purt land. Tl (Hath. b o tw w n O ak and Pino.
T H E ROSE O F E N G L A N D .
ATENTS 1
Cress-Section of a Plpe-Hsatsd Bed,
(B y W . R B E A T T I E . U n ite d S 'a te e D e
p a rtm e n t o t A g r ic u ltu re .)
Intensive gardening under aash or
cloth covers has become one of the
most popular and. In certain localities
where the conditions are suitable, one
of the most profitable Hues of out
door work. The trucker and the mar
ket gardener of the present day have
been compelled by keen competition
and a constantly Increasing demand
for high-grade products out ot season
to provide special facilities for In
creasing and Improving the product,
as well as to take advantage of every
favorable natural condition.
Many localities are especially fa
vored with an abundance of sun.bine
at all seasons of the year, and at tae
same time their climate, due to the
influence of large streams or near
by bodies of water. Is mild and free
from extremes of tsmperature.
Io
such localities It would be possible
to Yrow lettuce, radishes snd similar
crops during the entire winter with
out protection were it not for the
few cold days snd nights. A very
slight covering or the application of a
small amount of heat will, as a rule,
carry the plants through In good con
dition.
The greater portion of the work
with frames Is conducted on light or
sandy loam soils which are naturally
well drained and adapted to intensive
trucking. Tbe original soil is usually
employed, but when necessary rich
soli Is hauled snd placed In the beds.
The first essential is good drainage,
and if the land IS not naturally well
drained It should be tiled or provided
with numerous open ditches to carry
off the water. The surface of the soil
should be graded and all depressions
filled in and leveled. For best results
the land should be subjected to two
or three years of preparation by ma
nuring and planting to leguminous
crops.
The presence of plenty of organic
matter In the soil is very Important,
especially where large quantities of
commercial fertilizers are to be used.
This organic matter may be added In
the form of stable manure, but more
satisfactory results w ill be obtained
where leguminous crops are Included
In the preparatory treatment.
For
green manure nothing is better than
voü
Through centuries roas and sham
rock and Ihlsile have been honored
— * "**"■ * ~ PlMMM disvici
as tile specific emblems of the three
i. I. MARTIN, « • ’ •«« « *'«
countries of the United
Kingdom
They have been part of Ihe symbol
isnt of other coronations, the last
AND
KODAK
time Interwoven with the lotus flow
■ U F F L IE I
er of India It can hardly be said thal
W rit« for raiaUw uaa and lite ra l« ® *
the rose means as much to an Eng and p rin tin g M ali I or
o r d e n gtv®n p u s n p i a i I sm i lio n
llshmen as shamrock or thistle io his
Forti and Khoto Supply Co
N I i ORB
kinsmen. It is not a badge of nation 14» T h ird ttu a o t
allty like the th lrtle It is nol sacred
Her««»»« Hand Mach In-
to England as a country distinct and
ary b-»tight. ®uld and
• m changed: ® ncio® a.
ap art We go back six centuries und
bollar*. Mwmlll», ®<®. th® J. K M a rtin On.. Tt la t
more and find an Edmund Plantagenet Bt.. Purtland. B®od fo r Slock l-l®t and prUxaa.
with the red rose for his badge. From
him the house of lAnraster took their
red rose, snd from them the Tudors
POSTOFFICE CLERKS AND CARRIERS
But as the wars of the rosea remind
CIVIL SERVICE EXAMINATIONS
us, the red rose is not, the only one
for which Englishmen
have died.
Anaouneed fo r Novem ber 4th .
Prep are now.
W r it» for fre e b— k. m entlu nln a thle l» l-e r .
Shakespeare would have us believe
PACIFIC STATES SCHOOL
that the House of York first took the
M etta s B ofU In«
Portland. U reeo a
white rose for Its badge In the dan
ger of war. The truth Is that the
white rose had been the badge of the
House of York ever since the title of
BELMONT AUTO SCHOOL
the duchy was created
lied roses ,
m s. mu Si—a ■»»»» a e-aw
ml -vt Sa a. U
Ow
and white were united In the Tudor
bSt -ok SS ova mt lama,
house, and a rose of any hue became I
f —A avwat aas» Uw «4 o S h )
mm I— - a i l l at. Mt
the emblem of England.— Londuu |
wvawk W a- " «
M a il
«ILMONI «II.; M M E t
P
cow peas as a summer crop and crim
son clover as a winter crop.
The
crimson clover should be turned un
der about tbe time It comas Into full
bloom in the spring, the land planted
to cowpeas. and the resulting crop
plowed under or mowed for hay dur
ing the month of August In ample
time to prepare the land for frame
work during the
autumn.
When
heavy crops of green manure are
turned under It Is essential that lime
be used to Improve the mechanical
condition and to sweeten the soli; a
dressing of 1.000 pounds to the acre
should be sufficient
Wood ashes consittute an excellent
source of both potash and lime, espe
cially if they havs resulted from the
burning of hardwood. Ashes from pine
and other soft woods are ot little
value. Much of the value of wood
ashes may be lost by leaching, and
while a ton of strictly fresh hardwood
ashes would be sufficient to apply on
an acre, as much as five tons of
leached ashes could be used on tbe
same area without fear of burning
A M U S T A N G 'S A N C E S T O R S .
the plants.
Where ashen are used
less lime Is needed, although the per
But, brilliant as was the career ol
centage ot lime in the ash la com the Narragansett pacers while It last
paratively small.
ed. the pony that has played the most
Large quantities, of stable manure conspicuous and, In many respects
are used In growing crops In frames, the moat Important,
role In
the
sometimes as much as thirty to sixty United States la the mustang or
cartloads to the acre. The manure "bronco” as he Is often called These
la generally spread In a broad, flat horses are undoubtedly the descend
pile to compost before it la applied to ants of horsea brought over by the
the soil on which frames are to be Spanish conquerors. They are easy
located. Where manure is employed under the saddle and remarkably sure
for heating the beds It may after footed and enduring; indeed In the
wards be mixed with the soil for tbe latter respect there la probably no
growing of subsequent crops. In the breed of horsea that will do so much
work with frames around
Norfolk, work without being fed grain. These
Va_, the manure It placed In long, nar characteristics have mode the mus
row piles and turned two or three tang serve an excellent purpose In
times before It Is used in the beds. the cattle business, but they are so
Care should be exercised to avoid the fully offset by others, of a leas desir
use of manure in which there are able kind, that he la not, under any
shavings or sawdust, as these have an ordinary circumstances, an animal of,
Injurious effect upon the growth of | much value.—Outing Magazine.
plants.
Poultry snd sheep manure
are excellent fertilizers for frame
P R E S E R V IN G S P ID E R 'S W E B B .
work, but the quantity obtainable Is
very small.
In the application
of
Naturalists employ an interesting
natural manures of ail kinds it is es method to preserve all kinds of spid
sential that the manure slould be ers' webs. The webs are first sprayed
fine; that It be wbat Is termed "short1 with an atomiser with artists' shellac,
manure.
snd then, should they be of the or
dinary geometric form, they are
pressed carefully against a glass plate,
tbe supporting strands at the same
time severed. After the shellac has
dried the plntes carrying the webs
can be stored away In a cabinet .Even
dome-shaped webs may be preserved i
G e r t n n n In v e n t i o n o f M u c h I n t e r in their original form by spraying I
e s t t o th e P a r a î t r a u n d
them, allowing them to dry before
G r a in M e n o f T h ia
their removal from their supports.
C o u n try .
Many spiders' webs are very beautiful,
snd all are characteristic of the spe
From Germany comes an Invention cies to which they belong, so that,
of interest to farmers and grain men from a scientific standpoint, their per
In this country. It Is a machine for manent preservation Is very desirable.
stitching grain bags shut and sews
them up after they have been filled.
O R IG IN O F "BOSH.**
The filled bag, with the top open, of
course. Is placed on a wheeled plat
"Bosh” sounds a fairly good Eng
form which runs back and forth past
llsh word to apply to your political
the sewing mechanism, which can be
opponent's arguments. It Isn't. Skim
raised or lowered to suit the height
ming Doctor Bed doe's "Memories of
of the bag. A plate over which the
Eighty Years,” one finds the doctor
trying to explain the Protestant re
llgion to a mullah, "tt seems a very
decent sort of religion,” said
the
mullah. In excellent English.
Rut
there were two objections. The first
was that we "pay no honor to the
prophet." The second was "your doc
trine of the T rinity, which you will
excuse my saying Is bosh." W e have
got the word from the Turkish. It
means nonsense.
KODAKS
Machinery -j
L a Zk a t Mataa» T a M *
GAS LIG HTING SYSTEMS
For th® fa rm at «m all <*®t- H®tt®r lig h t than
elly gaa or aW atriet’ jr. Itw tu h e a on « <dT Ilka
• lo r lr u tt y
No mat«h«a: no possibility o f ftr®.
Cost on® • tenth of city ga®.
Light® hou®*
barn, eutbuildtnga. d rivew ay. Used for rook-
in< Uk® «Ity ga®. W rit® fo r particulars.
P. A. B R Y A N T . I M M aJlaoa S t . P ® rtU a4 . Or.
Tumors, Goiters, Rheumatism
(hronM , Nervous «nd f eru «ok Uheavrs
Ar® rurod w ith o u t th® knlf®.
Thoroughly
•quipped ftanaiurtum . Il® «u tifu l loouliun. Kat«®
th® lowwst. W rit® (or ltt®ratur®.
Meadow Glade O atro palhk SanilarHim
t Cm rwwim
Battle G round, Waah.
k. U
B O Y N TO N TURNACCS
Moat ®«Bjnnmteal and ®ff®edv® fo r houa®
and aehuol haalin®
J. C. BAYER f U R N A « CO.
tro e t and Msvkrt St».
Portland. O r.
SEND FOR CATALOGUE.
M A C H IN E FO R
KEEP PULLETS
BY THEMSELVES
SE W IN G B A G S
-—
*
E x p e r im e n ts a t G e n e v a S ta tio n
S h o w B e t t e r H e s u lt s W h e r e
C o c k e r e ls a r e E l i m
in a te d .
Some of the very early batched pul
lets wtll be laying in a short time, and
those poultrymen who are In the busi
ness to produce eggs for the market
will be Interested In some of the ex
perimenta conducted by the Geneva
(New York) station.
These experiments were for the pur
pose of finding out what effect the
keeping of males with tbe pullets had
on the egg production. Many poultry
raisers, and certainly most farmers,
believe it Is best to permit the cocker
els to run with the pullets at all
times, but these experiments show that
this is not true.
Several pens of birds were made
up; In some of them the males were
kept with tha pullets and In others
tbe pullets were kept by themselves.
The net results show that the pen
of pullets kept without a male pro
duced eggs at about 30 per cent, less
cost than an exact'./ similar pen where
the cockerels were entered.
In tbe pen without a male the bens,
during the first three months laid
about 30 per cent, more eggs than the
pen from the same hatching and
under exactly similar conditions ex
cept that they were kept with
a
cockerel
In all the experiments the pens of
pullets without the male birds be
gan to lay from one to two months
earlier than in any of the correspond
ing pens in which the male birds were
kept.
No attempts were made to force lay
ing and broody fowls were allowed to
sit at w ill there being plenty of nest
boxes in each pen.
About tbe same number becama
broody in tbe pens having the males
as in those w ithout
This is pretty conclusive evidence
that the young ,'ockerels should be
separated from the pullets Just sa soon
as they are old enough to be dis
tinguished.
I t would be better If
they could be kept In an en
closure not far from the pullets, par
ticularly at the beginning of each lay
ing season.
Every cockerel that is not kept
for breeding purposes ought to be
eaponlzed.
G olden
W est
COFFEEt )
*E A SPICES
BAKING POWDER
► EXTRACTS
JUST RIGHT
CU5S3ET Ä DCVEJÖ
PORTLAND. ORE?7 '
F IR S T A P P E A R A N C E O F C O M M O N
T H IN G S .
The first pipe organ was made by
Archimedes as early as 220 B. C. The
first dictionary was made by the Chi
nese scholars In 1109 B. C. The first
pair of spectacles was made by an 183 M adison S t .
P ortland , O regon
Italian In 1299. Steel needles were
first made In England In 1K45. Ad
vertisements first appeared In news
Grain Bag Stitcher.
papers in 1892. The first horse rail
road was built In 1928. The folding
needle works presses down one side envelope was first used In 1839. Coal
of the mouth ot the sack while an was first used as an lllumlnant In
other plate presses against the other 1928. The velocipede was Invented by
The Dawn of Scientific Know
side where It Is held by an arm that Urals In 1817.
extends over tbe top. The machine
Learn a Profession where thi
make« a peculiar team of stitches
O D D W E D D IN G C U S T O M .
mand is greater than the supply.
that Interlock and finally tangle, so at
the end of the run that there la no
Among the Lolos of western Chins Honorable, Dignified, Lucr<
necessity for tying a hand knot to It Is customary for the bride on the
for LHemturq Mnd Information,
keep them from unraveling. A t the wedding morning to perch herself on . b® Writ®
to YOUR ad van tag a .
same time, the seam can be quickly the highest branch of a large tree,
Invalids and others needing skilled traa
opened by cutting one of tbe loops while the elder female members of writ® for particular».
409 Commonweekh Bldg., Pertlanc
of the thread and pulling it out.
her fam ily cluster on the lower limbs,
armed with sticks.
When all are
duly stationed the bridegroom clam
Reforestation In Northwest
The first attempt at reforestation on bers up the tree, assailed on all sides
a large scale in the Puget sound by blows, pushes and pinches from
country Is now going on in the Olym the dowagers, and It Is not until he
pic National Forest reserve, where has broken through their fence and
burned over lands are being planted captured the bride that he Is allowed
to carry her off.
w ith Douglas fir.
FINKE BROS.
Gref f s #
P ortland .O regon