HE shortening days and the crisp ness in the early morning and evening air should give warn ing of the approaching cooler weather, when heavier clothes, for out of doors at least, w ill be needed. For general utility wear the suits are severe in their plainness, the skirts short and straight in outline, their severity sometimes relieved by plaits let in at the side seams, or there may be circular bands which are cut so as to show the slightest possible flare. Coats for these plain suits tit more closely than they have and vary in length from 26 to 32 inches. They are seen both in single and double breast ed effects, and there is a great variety of collars. There is the usual notch ed kind, and the narrow shawl collar, showing a low opening, and there are broad sloping revers in the front, with the back showing a sailor effect, or perhaps the collar w ill shape into a point in the middle back and be fin ished on the end with a tassel. W hile the materials for these fall suits are rather somber than otherwise in tone, this is relieved by the brightness of the trimmings. T Dress Accessories. The collar, revers and cuffs of a suit In a solid color may be of a stripe or plaid, then of course there are those that are entirely in one tone. Satin, silk, serge, which is another name for surah, and the usual stand ard cloths as well as many new weaves are qn display in the shops. Scotch tweed and delightfully soft and beautiful silk and wool mixtures will be favorite materials. Braid and but tons of every description are popular for trimming. The making of a suit is consider ably easier at present than it often is because interlinings are to be used. and little or no canvas, the Idea being to keep It as soft and limp In effect as can be. One of the serges showing a sort of invisible stripe or check w ill be at tractive for a suit Intended for real rervice. Brown or blue, whichever is more becoming, w ill be all right for the color, and the skirt can be cut in six gores. There is a seam down the middle front showing an inverted plait, and the rest of the seams are plain and straight in effect, except ing the one In the middle back, and thia baa an inverted plait, matching th at in the fro n t The jacket is 28 inches long, has a low opening. Is single breasted, and the neck is finished with a narrow shawl collar. There Is no middle back seam, but one starting in the middle o f each shoulder, on back and fronts. The sleeves are full length and close fitting. I t is only on the dreisler suits that the sleeves are three-quarter length, and another feature la the raised waist line, which shows on a great many of them. In Contrasting Color. On a dark fall suit it w ill look well to have a collar, cuffs, etc., made of the same material In gome contrasting color— white on a dark blue will be good style, and satin, taffeta, or broad cloth can be used if preferred. And fo r women who do not care for such contrasts, black satin or velvet, or eith er of these materials in the same tone as the suit, w ill be appreciated. Theae large collars need only be cut of the material, not using even a muslin interlining. O f course, if the m a teria l Is so light in weight that the m aterial w ill look mussed and w rinkled something w ill have to be used. But the Idea Is to avoid all ap pearance of stiffness. In making a coat It hag always been recommended In these articles that the first cutting should be from ordi nary cheap w hite muslin. This save* time In the end, bedause all the fit ting 1$ done with the muslin, and when you are working with the more difficult material there should be no ripping or refitting to be done. It Is also a great assistance in keeping the coat materials fresh looking. In fitting either single or double breasted coats the fastening down the front should be perfectly msde, and sa fsr down as the coat will ever be fas tened. This should be seen to before the cost Is looked over or touched, and from time to time give a glance to the fastening to see that it Is In tact. F it the coat into the figure slight ly on all the seams and be sure that the dart seams on the front do not bulge too much. Points to Considtr. Another important point is to see that there Is ample room over the bust, and this' can be accomplished without curving the bust line seam in an unsightly manner. When the real coat is being made tt should be tried on after the seams have been basted together, even though you do not ex pect to find that any changes w ill be in order. Then stitch all seams, but the under arm and shoulder seams and try on again. It is absolutely nec essary that all basting should be done in small, even running stitches. Careless workers baste any way, which often means that the material gaps between many of the stitches, and then when the stitching has been done they are surprised to find the coat or whatever they are making is much too tight. Another common mis take Is that in fitting the fronts are not perfectly closed, so that when the coat is done it sets badly if closed down the front, sometimes seeming to bulge toward the top, and sometimes so tight over the hips that it has to be left open. The same thing often happens to a skirt in the baud at the waist, and In the general fit from the waist to be low the hips. How often one sees the plaits at the back of the skirt fall wide apart Instead of failing togeth er as they should. Where the plaits are basted firmly in place and the placket fastened as it should be it would have been seen at once that the skirt was toe tight and the seams over the sides would have been let out as they should have been. To Get Proper Finish. After the seams are finished on the coat pin it together right side out so that all corresponding places meet. By this is meant armholes, neck opening, and lower edge as well as fronts. The seams are supposed to be perfectly even unless there should be some ir regularity In the figure which had to be provided for, so that the pinning to gether must be at the seams, and if this shows irregularity in any of the edges, even one by the other, always being careful not to trim ‘away too much. The armhoies for the medium sized coat measure about IT inches, and if the outline is good and the armhole still a little close try stretch ing it gently where it curves on the front. In cutting the collar out first meas ure the neck to see that it w ill be long enough, and if a material is used that ravels easily there w ill be real trou ble unless the cutting is perfect, the seam lines clearly marked, and the handling of the lightest and most del icate. Baste the middle back seam of the upper or under part together and baste to the coat so that the seam comes on the right side. In basting hold the coat next to you, pin the mid dle of the collar to the middle of the back of the coat, then pin It at the ends and finally baste. The turning or rolling line should be distinct, so that the collar can be shaped before a trying on. Any looseness or tightness is changed on the seam at the back. The middle seam Is stitched on un der the upper sections, the seams are pressed open, then holding the two parts together with right sides Inside they are pinned together in the middle and at the ends, then basted and stitched. Take the basting out, then lay the seam on a clean broom handle and press It open. Turn the collar right side out and you w ill find it easy to make a good turning at the seam. For the Notched Coltsr. The notched collar is made diffi cult to handle. Do not attempt to cut one out without a good pattern and then follow directions exactly about tbe grain of the cloth, etc. The revers on the coat front run up and meet part of the collar, and for this a thin canvas must be used. Steel trimmings are being consider ably talked of for autumn and win ter. Attention has been called to nov elty marquisettes with steel bead bor ders, woven In like an embroidery. A heavy Intermingling of small cut steel beads is noted among the newest pat tern« in beaded work. The steel color ing looks well In conjunction with the fashionable color tones of the mo ment. Cut steel mountings and trimmings are appearing on many new purses and handbags. In fact, indications point toward a general movement In steel beads and steel ornaments. A very lovely tea gown seen recent ly was carried out In blue crepe de chine, veiled with mauve nlnon, the folds of the nlnon of emerald green velvet. Fringed draperies are also a leading feature, and there Is quite a demand for the tea gown of broderic Anglais« or Maderla embroidery. The foundation of the garment in this case Is of washing satin, or even cotton crepon In some dainty coloring, and a long coat or loosely fitting tunic of the embroidery Is worn over it, and laced across the waist with black vel vet drawn through two sets of large eyelet boles. The illustration shows a pastel blue cloth costume with soutache of the same color. FRAMES ARE BIG FACTOR IN GROWING TRUCK GARDEN STUFF Keen C o m p e titio n a n d C o n s t a n t ly In c r e a s in g D e m a n d fug H i g h - G r a d e P r o d u c t s O u t o f S e a s o n M a k e s i t N ec e s s a r y to P r o v i d e S p e c ia l F a c il it i e s f o r S e c u r in g V e g e t a b le * . + THE ■!- SCBAP BOOK Yearo of Suffering C a ta rr h a n d O lo o d D laeaaa — D o cto rs Polled to C u re . M ita Mabel F. Dawkins, 121« Lafsy- site Mt.. Fort W ayne, lm l.. writes) “ For three years 1 was truubied w ith catarrh and blood disease. 1 tried sev eral doctors and a dtoen different rem edies, but none of then* dltl .uie any good. A friend (old hie of Hood's Mar- sao«rIlia, 1 InoM two bottles of this medicine and was as w ell and attong SB aver. I feel like a dtftprent person and recommend liood'a to any uus suf fering from catarrh." (le t It today In usual liquid form or chocolated tubists called B a rs atab a- WE BUY OLD GOLD Httft'xot |»r**r® ivald fur M tv a r, O ld ia w e trv . G o ld ( • • I h . t l * . llN C le K M Y K H. l ’wrtv xw®i® m Purt land. Tl (Hath. b o tw w n O ak and Pino. T H E ROSE O F E N G L A N D . ATENTS 1 Cress-Section of a Plpe-Hsatsd Bed, (B y W . R B E A T T I E . U n ite d S 'a te e D e p a rtm e n t o t A g r ic u ltu re .) Intensive gardening under aash or cloth covers has become one of the most popular and. In certain localities where the conditions are suitable, one of the most profitable Hues of out door work. The trucker and the mar ket gardener of the present day have been compelled by keen competition and a constantly Increasing demand for high-grade products out ot season to provide special facilities for In creasing and Improving the product, as well as to take advantage of every favorable natural condition. Many localities are especially fa vored with an abundance of sun.bine at all seasons of the year, and at tae same time their climate, due to the influence of large streams or near by bodies of water. Is mild and free from extremes of tsmperature. Io such localities It would be possible to Yrow lettuce, radishes snd similar crops during the entire winter with out protection were it not for the few cold days snd nights. A very slight covering or the application of a small amount of heat will, as a rule, carry the plants through In good con dition. The greater portion of the work with frames Is conducted on light or sandy loam soils which are naturally well drained and adapted to intensive trucking. Tbe original soil is usually employed, but when necessary rich soli Is hauled snd placed In the beds. The first essential is good drainage, and if the land IS not naturally well drained It should be tiled or provided with numerous open ditches to carry off the water. The surface of the soil should be graded and all depressions filled in and leveled. For best results the land should be subjected to two or three years of preparation by ma nuring and planting to leguminous crops. The presence of plenty of organic matter In the soil is very Important, especially where large quantities of commercial fertilizers are to be used. This organic matter may be added In the form of stable manure, but more satisfactory results w ill be obtained where leguminous crops are Included In the preparatory treatment. For green manure nothing is better than voü Through centuries roas and sham rock and Ihlsile have been honored — * "**"■ * ~ PlMMM disvici as tile specific emblems of the three i. I. MARTIN, « • ’ •«« « *'« countries of the United Kingdom They have been part of Ihe symbol isnt of other coronations, the last AND KODAK time Interwoven with the lotus flow ■ U F F L IE I er of India It can hardly be said thal W rit« for raiaUw uaa and lite ra l« ® * the rose means as much to an Eng and p rin tin g M ali I or o r d e n gtv®n p u s n p i a i I sm i lio n llshmen as shamrock or thistle io his Forti and Khoto Supply Co N I i ORB kinsmen. It is not a badge of nation 14» T h ird ttu a o t allty like the th lrtle It is nol sacred Her««»»« Hand Mach In- to England as a country distinct and ary b-»tight. ®uld and • m changed: ® ncio® a. ap art We go back six centuries und bollar*. Mwmlll», ®<®. th® J. K M a rtin On.. Tt la t more and find an Edmund Plantagenet Bt.. Purtland. B®od fo r Slock l-l®t and prUxaa. with the red rose for his badge. From him the house of lAnraster took their red rose, snd from them the Tudors POSTOFFICE CLERKS AND CARRIERS But as the wars of the rosea remind CIVIL SERVICE EXAMINATIONS us, the red rose is not, the only one for which Englishmen have died. Anaouneed fo r Novem ber 4th . Prep are now. W r it» for fre e b— k. m entlu nln a thle l» l-e r . Shakespeare would have us believe PACIFIC STATES SCHOOL that the House of York first took the M etta s B ofU In« Portland. U reeo a white rose for Its badge In the dan ger of war. The truth Is that the white rose had been the badge of the House of York ever since the title of BELMONT AUTO SCHOOL the duchy was created lied roses , m s. mu Si—a ■»»»» a e-aw ml -vt Sa a. U Ow and white were united In the Tudor bSt -ok SS ova mt lama, house, and a rose of any hue became I f —A avwat aas» Uw «4 o S h ) mm I— - a i l l at. Mt the emblem of England.— Londuu | wvawk W a- " « M a il «ILMONI «II.; M M E t P cow peas as a summer crop and crim son clover as a winter crop. The crimson clover should be turned un der about tbe time It comas Into full bloom in the spring, the land planted to cowpeas. and the resulting crop plowed under or mowed for hay dur ing the month of August In ample time to prepare the land for frame work during the autumn. When heavy crops of green manure are turned under It Is essential that lime be used to Improve the mechanical condition and to sweeten the soli; a dressing of 1.000 pounds to the acre should be sufficient Wood ashes consittute an excellent source of both potash and lime, espe cially if they havs resulted from the burning of hardwood. Ashes from pine and other soft woods are ot little value. Much of the value of wood ashes may be lost by leaching, and while a ton of strictly fresh hardwood ashes would be sufficient to apply on an acre, as much as five tons of leached ashes could be used on tbe same area without fear of burning A M U S T A N G 'S A N C E S T O R S . the plants. Where ashen are used less lime Is needed, although the per But, brilliant as was the career ol centage ot lime in the ash la com the Narragansett pacers while It last paratively small. ed. the pony that has played the most Large quantities, of stable manure conspicuous and, In many respects are used In growing crops In frames, the moat Important, role In the sometimes as much as thirty to sixty United States la the mustang or cartloads to the acre. The manure "bronco” as he Is often called These la generally spread In a broad, flat horses are undoubtedly the descend pile to compost before it la applied to ants of horsea brought over by the the soil on which frames are to be Spanish conquerors. They are easy located. Where manure is employed under the saddle and remarkably sure for heating the beds It may after footed and enduring; indeed In the wards be mixed with the soil for tbe latter respect there la probably no growing of subsequent crops. In the breed of horsea that will do so much work with frames around Norfolk, work without being fed grain. These Va_, the manure It placed In long, nar characteristics have mode the mus row piles and turned two or three tang serve an excellent purpose In times before It Is used in the beds. the cattle business, but they are so Care should be exercised to avoid the fully offset by others, of a leas desir use of manure in which there are able kind, that he la not, under any shavings or sawdust, as these have an ordinary circumstances, an animal of, Injurious effect upon the growth of | much value.—Outing Magazine. plants. Poultry snd sheep manure are excellent fertilizers for frame P R E S E R V IN G S P ID E R 'S W E B B . work, but the quantity obtainable Is very small. In the application of Naturalists employ an interesting natural manures of ail kinds it is es method to preserve all kinds of spid sential that the manure slould be ers' webs. The webs are first sprayed fine; that It be wbat Is termed "short1 with an atomiser with artists' shellac, manure. snd then, should they be of the or dinary geometric form, they are pressed carefully against a glass plate, tbe supporting strands at the same time severed. After the shellac has dried the plntes carrying the webs can be stored away In a cabinet .Even dome-shaped webs may be preserved i G e r t n n n In v e n t i o n o f M u c h I n t e r in their original form by spraying I e s t t o th e P a r a î t r a u n d them, allowing them to dry before G r a in M e n o f T h ia their removal from their supports. C o u n try . Many spiders' webs are very beautiful, snd all are characteristic of the spe From Germany comes an Invention cies to which they belong, so that, of interest to farmers and grain men from a scientific standpoint, their per In this country. It Is a machine for manent preservation Is very desirable. stitching grain bags shut and sews them up after they have been filled. O R IG IN O F "BOSH.** The filled bag, with the top open, of course. Is placed on a wheeled plat "Bosh” sounds a fairly good Eng form which runs back and forth past llsh word to apply to your political the sewing mechanism, which can be opponent's arguments. It Isn't. Skim raised or lowered to suit the height ming Doctor Bed doe's "Memories of of the bag. A plate over which the Eighty Years,” one finds the doctor trying to explain the Protestant re llgion to a mullah, "tt seems a very decent sort of religion,” said the mullah. In excellent English. Rut there were two objections. The first was that we "pay no honor to the prophet." The second was "your doc trine of the T rinity, which you will excuse my saying Is bosh." W e have got the word from the Turkish. It means nonsense. KODAKS Machinery -j L a Zk a t Mataa» T a M * GAS LIG HTING SYSTEMS For th® fa rm at «m all <*®t- H®tt®r lig h t than elly gaa or aW atriet’ jr. Itw tu h e a on « <dT Ilka • lo r lr u tt y No mat«h«a: no possibility o f ftr®. Cost on® • tenth of city ga®. Light® hou®* barn, eutbuildtnga. d rivew ay. Used for rook- in< Uk® «Ity ga®. W rit® fo r particulars. P. A. B R Y A N T . I M M aJlaoa S t . P ® rtU a4 . Or. Tumors, Goiters, Rheumatism (hronM , Nervous «nd f eru «ok Uheavrs Ar® rurod w ith o u t th® knlf®. Thoroughly •quipped ftanaiurtum . Il® «u tifu l loouliun. Kat«® th® lowwst. W rit® (or ltt®ratur®. Meadow Glade O atro palhk SanilarHim t Cm rwwim Battle G round, Waah. k. U B O Y N TO N TURNACCS Moat ®«Bjnnmteal and ®ff®edv® fo r houa® and aehuol haalin® J. C. BAYER f U R N A « CO. tro e t and Msvkrt St». Portland. O r. SEND FOR CATALOGUE. M A C H IN E FO R KEEP PULLETS BY THEMSELVES SE W IN G B A G S -— * E x p e r im e n ts a t G e n e v a S ta tio n S h o w B e t t e r H e s u lt s W h e r e C o c k e r e ls a r e E l i m in a te d . Some of the very early batched pul lets wtll be laying in a short time, and those poultrymen who are In the busi ness to produce eggs for the market will be Interested In some of the ex perimenta conducted by the Geneva (New York) station. These experiments were for the pur pose of finding out what effect the keeping of males with tbe pullets had on the egg production. Many poultry raisers, and certainly most farmers, believe it Is best to permit the cocker els to run with the pullets at all times, but these experiments show that this is not true. Several pens of birds were made up; In some of them the males were kept with tha pullets and In others tbe pullets were kept by themselves. The net results show that the pen of pullets kept without a male pro duced eggs at about 30 per cent, less cost than an exact'./ similar pen where the cockerels were entered. In tbe pen without a male the bens, during the first three months laid about 30 per cent, more eggs than the pen from the same hatching and under exactly similar conditions ex cept that they were kept with a cockerel In all the experiments the pens of pullets without the male birds be gan to lay from one to two months earlier than in any of the correspond ing pens in which the male birds were kept. No attempts were made to force lay ing and broody fowls were allowed to sit at w ill there being plenty of nest boxes in each pen. About tbe same number becama broody in tbe pens having the males as in those w ithout This is pretty conclusive evidence that the young ,'ockerels should be separated from the pullets Just sa soon as they are old enough to be dis tinguished. I t would be better If they could be kept In an en closure not far from the pullets, par ticularly at the beginning of each lay ing season. Every cockerel that is not kept for breeding purposes ought to be eaponlzed. G olden W est COFFEEt ) *E A SPICES BAKING POWDER ► EXTRACTS JUST RIGHT CU5S3ET Ä DCVEJÖ PORTLAND. ORE?7 ' F IR S T A P P E A R A N C E O F C O M M O N T H IN G S . The first pipe organ was made by Archimedes as early as 220 B. C. The first dictionary was made by the Chi nese scholars In 1109 B. C. The first pair of spectacles was made by an 183 M adison S t . P ortland , O regon Italian In 1299. Steel needles were first made In England In 1K45. Ad vertisements first appeared In news Grain Bag Stitcher. papers in 1892. The first horse rail road was built In 1928. The folding needle works presses down one side envelope was first used In 1839. Coal of the mouth ot the sack while an was first used as an lllumlnant In other plate presses against the other 1928. The velocipede was Invented by The Dawn of Scientific Know side where It Is held by an arm that Urals In 1817. extends over tbe top. The machine Learn a Profession where thi make« a peculiar team of stitches O D D W E D D IN G C U S T O M . mand is greater than the supply. that Interlock and finally tangle, so at the end of the run that there la no Among the Lolos of western Chins Honorable, Dignified, Lucr< necessity for tying a hand knot to It Is customary for the bride on the for LHemturq Mnd Information, keep them from unraveling. A t the wedding morning to perch herself on . b® Writ® to YOUR ad van tag a . same time, the seam can be quickly the highest branch of a large tree, Invalids and others needing skilled traa opened by cutting one of tbe loops while the elder female members of writ® for particular». 409 Commonweekh Bldg., Pertlanc of the thread and pulling it out. her fam ily cluster on the lower limbs, armed with sticks. When all are duly stationed the bridegroom clam Reforestation In Northwest The first attempt at reforestation on bers up the tree, assailed on all sides a large scale in the Puget sound by blows, pushes and pinches from country Is now going on in the Olym the dowagers, and It Is not until he pic National Forest reserve, where has broken through their fence and burned over lands are being planted captured the bride that he Is allowed to carry her off. w ith Douglas fir. FINKE BROS. Gref f s # P ortland .O regon