Willamette farmer., October 12, 1883, Image 1

VOL. XV.
PORTLAND, OREGON, FRIDAY, OCTOBER 12, 1883.
NO. 35.
a pew dats of levis coontt, washing
ton territobt.
(editorial correspondence.)
The fanners of Lewis county, V. T.,
paid me the complir -vit, lately, to ask
me to attend their county fair, which
was hld last week at Chehalis, a beau
tiful and prosperous town on the line of
the western division of the Northern
Pacific Railroad. I was gratified to re
ceive Bucb. a recognition, and to be able
to become personally acquainted with
the farmers of the fertile Chehalis val
ley and other rich lands of that section,
a country that the Farmer has long be
lieved capable of great and varied pro
duction. Wo have constantly held up
to the readers of the Farmer the pecu
liar advantages possessed by all portions
of Western Washington. This oppor
tunity to learn more particularly the
extent of good lands that await settle
ment in that locality came very oppor
tunely. So, on Tuesday of last week I
took the Kalama boat, and at 1 o'clock
p. m. the train left us at Chehalis sta
tion. Here I found fj.young and grow
ing town of about two hundred popula
tion, a very handsome depot, or station,
two general merchandise stores, quite a
number of smaller business house, and
many indications of thrift. The hotel
of the place is being enlarged, and will
soon be able to accommodate many
guests. A newspaper The Nugget
was lately started by Messrs. Toz'er &
3) Mayfield with nattering prospects, a.
large steam flouring mill is close uy
the station, and on the Chehalis river,
near by, Wadhams &' Elliott, of Port
land, have a steam saw mill, with ca
. pacity to cut 30,000 feet of boards in
ten hours. The residences of the town
are neat and convenient, showing to
better advantage than any other place
between Kalama and the Sound, though
the town is not as large as some others.
The future of Chehalis depends on its
central location, which makes it already
the county seat. While it is convenient
of access to all parts of Lewis county, it
is especially favored by being in the
midst of the beautiful Chehalis valley,
which is in one of the most fertile spots
in the Northwest
lewis county agricultural society.
The County Agricultural Society has
secured a pieco of high prairie, close by
the hills, not over half a mile from the
station. Here they have erected a build
ing of convenient size for the exhibit of
products, a neat nnd well painted house
two stories high. Six acres of land has
been enclosed by a high board fence,
and sheds for stock put up. A hand
some grove is in one corner that can bo
cleared out a little and made available
as a campground or forpicnic purposes.
The premises will bo convenient for so
cial gatherings, and the hall can be often
occupied for different uses by the towns
people. It will be seen that Chehalis valley
farmers exercise commendable energy,
liberality and enterprise, and we are
pleased to know that solid prosperity
fully justifies them in it. They have
set an example worthy the attention 'of
other counties, because other counties
i aw olilo tn do so if thpv can enlist men
if of means in the 'work. Nothing,tends
more to advance the prosperity of a
country than a display of ju-licious en
terprise by its fanning population.
I was met at the station by Mr. Thos.
Devereese, of Newaukum, President of
e County Society, and by Mr. William
est. of Chehalis. its secretary, wno
med to be the moving spirits of the
ision. The fair was just beginning
show" life: no articles were yet in
e, so welmproved the time to learn
iething of the surrounding country.
,t evening wo rode home with Mr.
reese, who owns a beautiful valley
fMpi of about 200 acres three and a ball
up the Chehalis valley. Our
road was all the way through beautiful
bottoms that were originally covered
with vine maple, ash, alder and similar
growths. Some remains are standing,
in spots, of the heavy fir and cedar forest
of the primeval times. All of these
havo been cleared away to make ready
for the exuberant crops that this soil
now regularly produces.
EARLY SETTLEMENT.
It is not easy to make comparison of
Chehalis valley land with even the best
prairie soils of the Willamette, because
the Willamette valley will be put to its
best to rival the sandy loams of these
Western Washington bottoms. It is a'
favorite locality for grasses and for all
vegetables, and has especial value as a
stock region. For dairying it has no
superior, unless it be the valleys of the
streams that empty into Puget Sound.
This is especially a country where tho
products should be consumed on tho
land. It probably has equal value as
hop land with the best. This Chehalis
country was settled long ago. Our
friend Mr. West crossed the plains in
1804. He found his present claim over
grown with tangled thickets and heavy
forests of fir and cedar. Thee who
settled hero then had a herculean work
to do, but they wont at it happily,
worked hard, and got a little land
cleared for garden and meadow. They
slashed and burned off land every year
to sow grass seed and mako room for
stock. Mr. West had his jaded team
and not much besides j so it was with
others. They had their farms to make,
and they made them. Now they are all
independently well off. There is no
more solidly independent farming com
munity on the North Coast west of the
Cascades, in Oregon and Washington.
TfieT early comers took up the bottom
land on the Chehalis and Cowlitz, and
other principal streams. On these and
their branches they found rich bottoms
that have been cleared and made into
beautiful farms. They now have com
fortable houses and good barns. They
have made substantial improvements,
and usually own stock of different
kinds.
The settlers of twenty years ago were
in a wilderness far away from any mar
ket, and had not as good a show as the
man who goes into that region to-day.
Chehalis is about midway between the
Columbia and the Sound, and the early
settler had to haul, over rough or muddy
roads, in one direction or the other.
Now they have the railroad to haul to,
and a demand at their doors for all pro
ducts. It should be very encouraging to
the new-comer to see how well fixed these
old settlers have become, because he can
count on winning success easier than
they have done, and in less time.
LEWIS COUNTY FAIR.
Tho county fair lasted three days, and
was in every way a success. the dis
play of grain, vegetables and fruits was
very good, and showed satisfactorily
what the country can produce. Of
horses there were some very excellent
ones exhibited. I noticed that farmers
were driving good animals. They ex
hibited aithe fair some very good work,
stock'and, roadsters. They don't" have
thoroughbreds"' or Hambletonians in
these woods, but when it comes to genu
ine work stock, horses and mares that
weigh L400 to 1,500 pounds, 'well put
up, they can qqual ''anything we know
of. The exhibit of roadsters and draught
stock was what we expected from the
appearance ot the teams driven by
farmers of the country.
Among the, entries of horses were two
half-breed Clydesdale stallions, three
years old ; one Perchcron and Arabian,
same age ; four draught teams of different
strains and great ize. Mr. West, Secre
tary of the society, showed a gelding
that weighed. 1,445 pounds, and a filly
that went oer 1,400 pounds. Both
these animals were of good form and
action. Mr. Scott allowed a team that
weighed over 2,900 pounds, including a
mare that weighed 1,500 pounds. Mr.
Raytoa snowed a pair of black geldings
that went fully to 2300 pounds. Mr.
erally good appearance. He also had
on exhibit some good two year olds; one
weighing 1,150 pounds had good form and
action. The entries of horses numbered
over thirty, and included sucking colts
and yearlings that were of the same
stock.
The season just over has not been as
favorable for production as usual, but we
found fair crops everywhere gathered.
At the fair there was a good display of
many varieties of grains, grasses, etc.,
both in the berry and in sheaf. Of veg
etables thero was a really good exhibit
and many varieties. Tho house was
well filled above and below. The tables
above were loaded with fruits, and made
a remarkable showing for such an unfa
vorable season as this has been for fruit
Thoy havo orchards on the sandy loam
of tho rive- bottoms, but the uplnnds
are more favorable for all fruits. One
need not doubt that in time that region
will bo largely used for that purpse.
Some varieties grow and hear well there,
and some do not. It will be important
to gather from experience of other facts
bearing on tho subject.
Sheep are liable to the liver fluke after
the first year so I was told when al
lowed to run on the river valley land,
but do well on upland. This is the
natural result of pasturing on land where
water stands ot times. I saw sheep on
several farms, but thoy do not seem to bo
popular with farmers on Chehalis bot
tom lands.
There wero some swine on oxhihit,
but no great number. Considering the
fact that so many farmers around there
pay particular attention to raising swine
it seemed strange that no greater display
was made of animals that form so im
portant a part of their scheme of farm
products.
There are good herds of cattlo in Lewis
county. Somo were purchased from the
Short-Horn herd of S. G. Rood by Mr. J.
H. Tong There are many good milch
cows in the county, as butter and choeso
making are a strong feature of produc
tion. It would have added to the interest
and general information to bo gathered
at the fair if those able to do it hod
made an exhibit of cattle and swine.
Thero is so much choice stock of both
kinds that a good displav can ensilv bo
gathered. Such an exhibit would pos
sess value as a means of comparison and
instruction.
ART EXHIBIT.
Tho people of Lewis county possess a
good share of artistic excellence among
them. Tho walls of tho upper story
wero hung with crayon and poncil draw
ings, paintings, and fine sewing work,
that were greatly admired. Miss Lizzio
Twiss showed pencil pictures of her own
devising, named as follows: " How They
Caught Bruin," "Logging Camp in
Washington Torritory," "How the Cows
Como Home." Theso were shown at the
Mechanic's Fair in Portland, and received
premiums, in 1882.
Miss May Miles, Claquato, showed
some good crayon drawings, " Head of
Dog and Bird, " On Guard," etc.
Miss Lzzie Roudebuah showed pencil
work that was much admired.
Miss Helen Young, of Ccntreville, had
a worsted wreath in a handsome frame ;
also, a nicely made lady's suit.
Thero were cut flowers, potted plants,
and other items, that added to the dis
play. Canned fruit, preserves, etc. The
ladies of Lewis county did a full share
towards making the fair a success. Be
sides paintings and drawings that would
be creditable in any city circles, they
showed needle work that would be diffi
cult to excel.
This annual meeting and exhibit of
farm products improves the social rela
tions. One must admire tho kindly
tpirit that actuated those who take tho
lead which means those who do the
hard work, for there is a groat deal of
work to be done to make such a local
enterprise successful. Several of the
Devereese, President of the society, working directors went East with the
drove a pair of matched mares ot fair Pioneer Excursion. This has made it
aixe and good action. Mr. West had j harder work for those remaining. The in width, and increases gradually for 90
sorrel roadtters, well matched, with gen-! managers seemed to have the confidence ' miles,, when it cuts through a mountain
of their fellow citizens, and thero was
no fault-finding. While Lewis county
was settled twenty years ago in part,
there is a mixture of newness with its
oldest settlements. New comers aro con
stantly moving in to take up lands that
were heretofore neglected. All seem to
appreciate the annual fair as n reunion
of friends and a means of social pro
gress. There were hundreds presont
from the confines of tho county from
Bois Fort, from Cowlitz, from downthe
Chehalis, as well as from tho immediate
vicinity. From several of the older set
tlers, and those generally well informed
concerning that portion of Washington
Territory, I received reliable information
concerning the character of the soil and
opportunity for new comers to mako lo
cations. DESCRIPTION OK COUNTRY.
The upper waters of the Cowlitz river
irrigate tho southeastern portion of the
county. Lewis county is one hundred
miles long, east and west, andfctwenty
six north and south. The Chehnlis
river comes out of the coast mountains,
in tho southwest part of the county,
then turns westward and cuts through
the coast range to mako its way to
Gray's Harbor, leaving a beautiful valley
about twenty miles long in Lewis county.
Tho river comos close to the railroad
here. Its tributaries tho Newaukum,
from the oast, and others all hove fer
tile, though narrow, valleys. Those,
with tho Cowlitz and its tributaries, con
stitute a rich section of country, not ex
ceeded by any land found on this coast.
Those river bottoms originally had heavy
undergrowth of vino maple, with alder,
ash,jnaple, Cottonwood, and sometimes
heavy forests of fir, spruco and cedar.
This had to be cleared off, littlo by lit
tle ; 1 md was slashed, burned and sown
to grass, and that cnobled the settler to
keep a cow. He would clear a fow acres
for his garden and meadow, and soon
become a producer. Mr. West reached
Chehalis nineteen years ago with a jodod
team that had crossed tho plains, and
not much besides. Ho and Mr. Dobson
had their outfit together, and located
land adjoining. They began, as tho
great majority of settlers did, wirh lit
tlo money or property, rich in faith and
strong to work. They soon became pro
ducers, though far from markets. Tho
railroad finally got them an outlet.
Such is tho plain, unvarnished talo that
all can tell, very much oliko in works
nnd results. I doubt if Oregon, in her
most favored 'districts, can show a more
independent communitv than this I I
eame acquainted with last week in tho
throe days I spent at Chehalis. Thoy
are all well off; havo lands well im
proved, good housos and good stock.
Theee farmers drivo great teams of horses
that nr all in good order. Everything
betokens thrift and solid character. Ah
I hao said elsewhere, tho man who
starts to-day has a bettor show to pros
per than thoy had in 1804, whon West
and Dobson camo.
IIFAP WATERS OF THE COWLITZ.
Mr. T. M. Pearson, who prospects tho
Cascade Mountains and foot-hills for
minerals, is generally well posted con
cerning settlements nnd land matters,
and Capt. James T. Ilorry, who is a gov
ernment surveyor, and has been county
surveyor of Lewis county; both gavomo
direct information. I also conversed
with Mr. H. J, Ilrooks, tho county audi
tor, who has resided hero many years,
and with other gentlemen, and gntherul
many valnablo facts concerning lands
generally and especially concerning va
cant lands in favorable locations. I
was surprised to discover that Lewis
county has good bottom lands vacant to
make homes for hundreds of families.
Mr. Pearson prospected last Mimmor in
tho vicinity of Mt Rainier or Tocoma
and gives an interesting description of
the rush lxttom on the North Fork of
the Cowlitz, This stream heads on tho
east of Rainier, flows south and west 100
miles, and finally joins the Columbia
about 30 miles below the Willamette.
The rush bottoms commence 20 miles
from Rainier. Hero the vine-maple,
alder, ash, maple, etc., form a dense
growth. Tho valley averages one mile
ridgo and makes a deep canyon. The
summit of the Cascades is east of Rainier,
but this mountain wall runs south from
Rainier (or Tacoma) to St. Helens, and
tho North Fork has to cut its way
through it. This interior basin, east of
the ridgo alluded to, is a very peculiar
and interesting region. It has a dolight
ful climate both winter and summer.
This is testified to by three families of
Klickitat Indians who onco worked for
tho Hudson Bay Company. After that
company left the field these Indians
went to the Upper Cowlitz and made
farms. Thoy livo there after a semi-civilized
fashion, raising vegetables of var
ious kinds. They say the seasons aro
not too warm or cold. Four uDttlors
moved into this mountain basin last
summer. The river bottom averages
one milo wido and tho hills on tho north
having boon burned over, afford good
grazing. This interior valley is 30 miles
long and can offor a good quarter section
of fertile bottom lands to at least 250
settlers. The Lower Cowlitz, west of tho
i i lge; generally has room for claims along
tho rivor. Where tho river cuts through
tho ridgo it makes a fall, or rather a cas
cade, known as tho Falls of tho Cowlitz.
Below the falls, 25 miles, is Mossy Rock.
Settlements aro now mado on tho river
eight or ton miles above that place. Tho
vacant land along tho Uppor Cowlitz ex
tends 30 miles in the interior basin and
10 miles below tho falls, 40 miles in all.
The South Fork of tho Cowlitz has no
valley land to invite settlement, but has
quantities of excellent timber along its
shores. South of the Cowlitz, near tho
county lino, in township 11 north, range
1, 2 and 3 east, Mr. Pearson says there is
much good land. It is timbered upland
and faces tho west. Unfortunately for
Lewis county over 40,000 acres of its best
valley land is owned by two wealthy
men who bought for a- speculation and
will not name any price to purchasers.
Thoy hold for a rise and as thoy provent
settlement the development of tho
county is hindered.
On Tilton river, a branch of tho Cow
litz, 25 miles east of Chehalis, thero is
considerable good lnnd vacant at a point
where several tributaries como in and
with their valleys, form a rather interest
ing sequenco of fertile bottoms. Mill
creek, another Cowlitz tributary, affords
good vacant land nearer still to tho rail
road. The vacant vallev land lying oast
of tho railroad on tho Cowlitz waters is
sufficient to make quarter boction home
steads for hundreds of now settlors.
has proved excellent for fruits and vege
tables and for all cereals. It will pro
duce clover abundantly, amd that is a
strong proof of its value. While not so
remarkably fertile as the creek and river
bottoms it is equally good, when cleared
of timber, with the .Willamette prairies.
There is a great extent of such land and
it will soon bo in demand, as the timber
is often of great value. Mr. Harmen, ef
Chehalis, has two acres of upland in
garden and assures mo that it did not
dry out as easily as the gardens did in
tho sandy loam of tho neighboring bot
toms. He raised excellent corn, pota
toes, peas, onions and other things, on
now ground. A now comer slashes or
deadens and after burning gets the land
into grass. Then ho can keep some cat
tlo and has a means of income from but
ter. He can keep chickens to advan
tage, and very soon can become in
dependent in a small way. An Irishman,
near Newaukum, has mado a farm on
tho upland and docs very well. Others
aro taking up such claims and aro pros
pering. Tho ways and means that an
swered for the early sottler aro still avail
able and success is even mora sure.
THE CHEHALIS VALLEY.
The Chehalis river comes out of the
coast range in the southwest quarter of
Lewis county, deploys for 20 miles, or so,
in the interior basin that represents north
of tho Columbia what tho Willamette
valley does south of it, and, with its trilv
utarics, which all afford rich bottoms,
constitutes an cxtonsivo nctrwork of for-
tilo volleys. The Newaukum comos in
at Chehalis station from tho oast and
there is considerable vacant land upon it
within rcasonablodistancofrom tho rail
road. From tho northeast tho Skookum
Chuck and Hanaford creok, ono of its
branches, como into tho Chehalis noor
tho north lino of tho county, and have
much good land. Of course, tho mam
valley of tho Chehalis was takon long
ago ond is well settled and cultivated.
Up tho Chehalis, 18 to 25 milos, thero is
vet vacant valley land to bo taken ; olso,
from six to twelvo miles east and north
past of Chehalis station vacant land can
1)0 had in somo swampy flats. On Lin
coln creok, 18 miles northwest, thero is
about 1,000 acres of vacant valley land.
In all cases I allude to government land
when I speak of vacant land ; thoro is
also railroad land to bo purchased at fair
rates and on rcasonablo terms.
Judging from tho statements mado by
soveral gentlemen who agreo with each
other, I conclude that persons looking for
good vallev land in Lewis county, W. T
can havo fully a thousand quarter sec-
tions to select from in the various local
ities described. In making up this ac
count I havo taken only statements that
wero well sustained and havo endeavored
to Ixs within tho mark, so that tho new
corner shall not bo disappointed who is
governed by my account.
There is a lhrgo extent of such fertile
bottom land all through Western Wash
ington, and Lewis county only represents
a small portion of that region. There is
a much larger area of upland. My in
quiries havo always elicited from well
informed men information that this up
land is good soil and capable of pro
ducing whatever the bills and prairies of
the Willamette valley produce. Tho
universal report mado concorning the
uplands of Lewis county was, that it has
very uood soil and has a porous clay sub
soil capable of retaining moisture. This
land has been tried by a few settlers and i
METiions and rnonucTs.
As to oponing up a bottom claim, of
which wo havo shown that a thousand
remain vacant in this county, wo give
tno exponenco of Mr. Aloxandor, wno
lives at Chehalis, Ho hired a man to
clear 20 acres of bottom land to $20 an
aero and board. To clear off tho land
ho also worked thrco months with a team,
Ho estimated that it cost him $30 on acre
to get tho land cleared. Ho put it in
wheat, got over 40 bushels to tho acre
and sold enough out of tho first harvest
to pay for tho clearing and all the plow
ing, seeding and harvesting.
What wo sav of Lowi county is ap
plicable to all Western Washington and
much of Western Oregon. Hero is a
country 500 miles north and south and
averaging 100 miles east and west, from
tho Ocean to tho Cnscado Mountains,
and from California to British Columbia,
that has vacant land, such as I have de
scribed, that will moke homestead claims
for hundreds of thousands of people.
The timo is not distant when this land
will bo eagerly sought and settled on.
Tho future will show an outcome for t lis
region that will increase as tho limits of
the National domain shall decrease.
Stock interests will always load in this
section of country, Tho advonco in
value of all meats mako beef and mutton
raising very profitable.
Dairying will also Ihj carried on largely
and successfully. Mr. Long was, until
lately, connected with tho great dairy
farm on White rivor, back of Seattlo, and
says that Lewis county is well adapted
to the dairy business. Fattening swine
and curing the meat is an important
branch of farming at Chehalis. Mr.
West ban up 80 hogs rapidly becoming
ripo for tho butcher. Mr. Dobson has
00 hogs that will ho shipped to A. H,
Johnson, Portland, in two wcoks more,
when ho will put up 00 others. Mr. Do
vorceso had 75 hogs fattening. Mr. Dob
son engaged his pigs at six cents, live
weight, hut will euro the noxt lot him
self, Theso gontleinen havo ready de
mand for their products at full prices,
hut do not ox)ect to get as much this
ypar as they did in 1882. From what I
could judgo by getting facts ond mak
ing my own figurcs.tho man who can cure
mr at well and some cannot will make
25 por cent, over and ubovo all his cost
and labor. That is to say ; If you buy
pork at six cents, livo weight, and count
in addition tho time, cost of salt, sugar,
etc., and hired lulwr for curing, you can
mako a profit of 25 per cont. ovor all
that by soiling your products at market
prices. Unuor thoso circumstances it
looks as though tho farmer cannot afford
to sell his jxirk but should mako it into
tno best quality of bacon, imms and
lard, and trust to his good namo to ,got a
good price. Chohalis farmers havo al
ready a good reputation.
I noticed in their pons specimens of
Poland-China, Cluster-White and Ilcrlc
shiro breeds ami could soo that thoy had
good stock to work with. I saw a num
ber of theso broods together at Mr. Dob
son's. Tho owner professed his liking
for tho Poland-China in profcrnco to
any other. As ho was inclined to soil by
livo weight ho preferred thorn boeauso
they govo tho greater weight. Ho soys
the Ilorkshires aro bettor meat and there
fore tho best for tho packer as tho meat
weighed tho most after curing. This
distinction gives tho flesh of tho Ilerk-
shires a closer, firmer grain and capacity
to euro inoro certainly with less liability
for loss. All tho points aro of interest
to tho general roador on tin) farm
I havo to acknowledge kind hospital
ity and good treatment at tho hands of
ChehalLi fanners and hopo to bo able
some other time to ronow tho acquaint
ance that was so pleusantly commenced.
8, A Claukk.