Image provided by: University of Oregon Libraries; Eugene, OR
About Willamette farmer. (Salem, Or.) 1869-1887 | View Entire Issue (Feb. 4, 1881)
F "WTMAMKTTK FARMER: PORTLAND, ORBQOK, FKR. 4, 1881. that aro licltcd with fore.it and threaded with precious streams; hill nml (Ula in most charm iiig succession coiistitutothoo Western valleys, offering thostrongesteontraAt to tliemuvh wider scope of country thnt these sanio snowy peaks look down upon towards tho east. There tho formation of tho country is different, forests nru only found in the mountains, orncarthcin, to nuy great extent! streams dig deep chan nel through dry tablo lands, and the sage brush plain extends for hundreds of miles, often in continuity with rich hut narrow val leys. It is n region where rain seldom falls in profusion, tliu climato i dry, tho Winters are colder and thn Hummers warm and parched. Yet tliis ldo region has amazingly rich soil, and tho ull-prcv.illiug hunch-grass is better feed thin any grass we can cultivate. Wo are now (Imply illustrating tho fact that this mountain wall separates two regions that are utterly dissimilar in climato and in nil physi cal characteristics, lii the very licgintiing of a description of this Northwest country it is necessary to have it impressed upon tho mind that this difference in climato exists. CIIIKAT VAIUK.TV OKKKUKII. In tho outset, too wo must learn that every valley has iU characteristics of soil and va rieties of climate. I'-icli of tho Western val leys has peculiarities and especial advantages. Thero Is i. womlerfiil dilferenco between Rngtto River valley In Southern Oregon, and Umpqita valley North of it, lmth being hounded by tho same ranges Ivwt and West. Umpqtia, again ilillers m.iterially from the Willauictta valley, which isstill further North, and has peculiarities far different from all tliu rest. Then again, tho widu interior countrv offer very many illffcicnt aspects nml varieties of climato TIicho wo nlliidu to, hut will not compare Is detail now, hut wo wish to impress upon tho minds of distant loaders, for whose perusal theoii hUetchcs aro intended, that this) is a wonderful country, extensive enough to cover great changes of climate and difference in re source, so that tho new citizen has a widi inuge to cIiikmu from. Thero is not any other portion of tho United State that within tho kiiiio limit contains micli great changes of cli mato and varieties of physical coaformntion, or that presents such unlimited resources that nuait dovrlnpuinont. It will ho our aim to iintko all these cliar.itteri.tlcs plainly under food ami so well illustrated that tho readers cannot mit.iku the pcciiliiirtlcs of any section, or tho iniiuigraut fail to know tho disadvant ages ho willliavo to contend with. tii: COAST UKIIION. As you sail up tho coast from San Fran cisco, you notice that tho mountains that riso near tho ocean shore after nwhile become wooded, nnd that tho forests aro more denso and of much heavier growth as you sail North ward. Tho darker forests tell you that you niu looking upon tho shores of Oregon. All along the s a front rivers are, putting Into tho ocean, or into bays, that aro more or less set tled. Through theso gap aro scattered set tlements and tho richest of liottom land, couTt'd sometimes with vino maple or alder, can be had for tho clearing. On tho South (vntl. where tho forest aro less dense, a con fident! number of cattle aro kept. In due i-ourso o o tldi coast region will bo a great dairying country, because tho mitts from iho ocean pi'wrvn tho pasture green all nutnmer and drive oil' tho frosts and snow all Winter. Along; v hero river or streams put in are fisheries nu I canneries that are busy in seasons when mImioii run. Saw-mills aro at work cut ting up tho interminable forest, and small viwiris piy constantly irom uoguo i.ivor, ami - Tort Orlord, the Coquillo, Coos liay, tho Urn ipi.i, Siuslaw, Alsca, Yoquina liay, and Tilla mook Riv. 'o S.iu Francisco or I'ortland. and siuull occ.m steamer aro used in the same trade, dos Hay is famous for lumber and civil, and it is claimed that more vessels enter thero than to tho Columbia river, but they are of course alt small ami adapted to that trade, Coos Hay will bo an important point in the futiiio on account of tho iui'iieuse trado that mutt lo carried on thero always for coal and lomWr, though it agricultural lands aro not extensive, Hut along the coast aro settle im-nt. and plenty of room for more, for cood land wuit the hand of tho woodman, who has but to clear it to unit It resources truly in oxhauttablo in his lifetime Yanuina liay is another point that premises much and claims much, as it is a good harlor for light diaft easels. It is connected by an easy pas through the coast range wun mo v tiiamette, and a projected railway hold out induce ments to beliovo that before long there will be a htisinc point ot great !nixrtanco there, that will Ih a place for tho export of the pro duct of tho great Willamette valley that i so near by, Thero are numerous passes through the mountains irom the Western val ley to tho ocean, and it is safo to say that in duo course of time the long line of coast will lo occupied by a large and prosperous popula tion, Thero ft no reason why, as time paasea and all tho advantages of this cotst region can bo made available, the Iwys, nooks, valleys and benches, of arable (ami should pot be cleared ami cultivated, for they are among the most productive lauds we have, and being so near tho ocean will have a market clnte at hand, Stock of all kiuds thriv along the coast, and that interest must Increase. A we come North wo first striko Curry county, which is scantily populated; then coma to Coos county, witli Coos Hay, which will be a very important point In all tliu iiituro. rioxt is tho coast lino of Ronton and l'olk counties which Ho chiolly In the Willamette, but on their occtn front is located an Indian icscva tiou that keeps out whito settlement except nt Yaquina Ray and Alsca. There is a constant though not largo stream of emigration find iin it wav into these coast counties, hut they cannot divcit the chief tide of emigration that now steadily up tho Columbia and tills up tho great plains, alleys, and open hill of Eastern Oregon and Washington. Wo shall not pre tend to lo definite as to tho resources and population of the coast country of Oregon, ho causo tho desire for settlement thero is not so great a to other sections, but wo have pre sented their case so plainly that no man who fancies such a location can fail to tecoguir.o all tho advantage they jiossess. VV TMK CULUMMA HIVKIt. Reaching the Columbia river wo can see tho shores, after crossing tho bar, covered with forest of llraml snruco nnd scarce n sign of cultivation to be discovered. On the south is Clatsop peninsula, with Fort Stevens, nil earthwork on tho point; Clatsop plains South of it aro covered with farms. Hero the soil is Light and sandy, for the ridire t at compose tho plains nre successive sea beaches that the ages have thrown tip m barrier between Asto ria and the sea. On tho North, Capo Hancock frowns upon tho entrance, it summit armed with fKMJ pound coluuibiads. Tho military post is inside the harimr under tliu leu of tho capo. Close by U Hwaco, a Summer lathing resort) fifteen miles acins tliu bay is Astoria on a rocky point that pushes out towards tho sea, while the Columbia river comes down past it in a grand Mow that is several miles in width. Kvcry where ate densely wooded shores; occasionally wosco sawmills, fisheries, canneries and mice in a while a dealing or river town, and though wo find but fow signs of settlement wo know that there are valley among the Coast mountains that aro peopled and cultivated, such a wo have described ns to Ira found whero stream seek tho ocean all along the coast. Hut thero is far more object in cultivating and clearing laud along the ColutnWa, n tho growth of Astoria, the de mands of commerce, tho wants of mills, fish erics and canneries all mako a remunerative demand for whatever tho farmers of that region can produce Hardy Swede and Nor wegian settle along theso valleys and appreci ate tho advantage they oiler. It needs hard labor to redeem such land, but when redeemed it i near market and mutt always grow in value One hundred mile from Astoria tho Wil lamette river enter tho Columbia, above and lielow which point tho country i more open. a wo have passed through the jwrtion where tho river cuts through the Coast Range and though tho shores are wooded, and lull aro in tho near distance, there is more oportuuity for settlement and cultivation than wo found lielow. We aro now taking a merely cursory view of the country so as to get a gcnorally corioct idea, but shall follow with mora de tailed description. It is neceaiatv to under stand that tho Columbia will not erect your evo with an open country along it liankt; that the cultivatahlo region it limited, and the land all along the river has to I hi cleared with heavy labor, hut this will eventually be done, and these land when cleared will possess im mense value. Considerable liottom land is found along the shore of the Columbia, and on the Cowlitz that come in from the North, and there are itlanda that ovcrtlow t highest Hood which are also occupied. About twenty five mile above the Willamette wo aro con fronted by tho Cascade Range, and the river emerge from the wondrous delile that it ha created to effect it passaga through the most formidable mountain wall to be found in North America. This great gorge of the Columbia affords the majestio scenery that ha made the river so famous and well knowu. We have tailed over a hundred and fifty mile from the ocean to realize that llryant In his youth, when he wrote ot the "continuous wood whero roll the Oregon," hail an in spiration that truly pictured the region that wat then.uukiiown save in a poet's dream. Away to the the South, cradled among giant mountain, lie the beautiful Willamette valley, the garden spot of the 1'acilio, the Kdeu of Orei-oii, extensive enough to build busy cities and maintain a vast population, and already demanding for it product tho service of a great Hurt of ship that come from all countries to ascend the Columbia and Wil lamette river and bear away breadstuff to feed tho people of the Old World. Tlii great valley will be described in detuil. western wAxursaTo.x Tiiinnonr. lielow tho Willamette, ou the North aide of the Columbia it Kalama, the Southern ter minus of tho Western division of tho North I'acifio Railroad, that connect the Columbia river with l'ugct Sound at Tacoma. This road is over a hundred mile loug, wind up the Cowlitx river past many fins farm, croaset a rough timbered djyjde that separate tho Columbia from tho water of l'ugct Sound, and thou comes down over gravelly prairie reaches to tho shores of tho inland sea. A great deal of this region is siuccptiblo of cul tivation and is already settled by hardy pio neer who havo undertaken to make the wilderness bear fruit. Tho Chchali river rises in this mountainous country and work it way down to (Iniv's Haibor, navigable for some distance and affording n rich country for settlement all idling its border. Tho Che- halis country promises to Lccomo important In tliu nrar futiir-. A loin.' thuoccau to tho West of this road is Shoalwater Hay, famous for its oysters that aro sent to San Finnclsco and lot It mil. and possessing nituo or less good laud along its shines tli.it will support n large community. Small vennels sail from this bay ... u.... 1. : -...1 ...-:..... nil.... .w.l..lM su mm riiiuiivi' mm fiiiioun i.tiiui nmiui. As wo pas up tho coast wu liiul streams (tour ing into the oee.m from the Olyinpk) range, that line betwicii l'liuet Sound and tliu ocean, and ou these stienni ill u valleys where tlairyii g nnd stock raising aro successfully camel on. Mounding Capo Flattery we enter tho Strai s of Fuca, nncouvi r Island and the I'titinh Hag ou oueniitu, and tho sod ol Washington liiittnry mi the oilier. I ins leads into what is commonly known as TIIK 1T0KT H0U.VI1 niUNTIlV, Whero many islands dot tho wi.tcr and fur nish hnincs for many people. On the Wett ns wu enter Is I'ort Townseiidi down tho bay t tho left i tho promising city of Seattle, that shows mora activity than any other place on tho Sound. Along tho shores aro saw-mills and ship-yards; iron mines nre being worked, and preparations making for a rolling mill. Tho depo it of iron nru is iiiimrnae, and in the futiiio will bo a Mourcu of gnat wealth to thimowho shall successfully woik it. Hack of Seattle, as also nt many other points along the shores of tho Sound, aro found great beds of co.il of excellent quality, and an cxtciudvi trade with San Fraucisco in co.il and luinbei coustltutu the chief industries of the country. At tho head of tho Sound aro Tacoma, the terminus of the N. I'. R. R., nml Olympia, tho atatu uipitol. 1 ho latter is tho oldest town in the territory, nnd is a delightful place with some extent of farming country within easy reach. All around tho Sound tho shore are densely wooded, and tho timber is taw til up into lumber or cut for spais and aliippcd to tho cuds of tho w orld, Tho Sound country is too moist for wheat to mature always with tucco s, but i famous for oat', hay, jiotatocs and other vegetables. In the I'liyallup valley, Kat of Tacoma, many hops are raised, ami aro highly appreciated at San Francisco becauso of their excellent quality. A barrel factory on an immense scale is now in operation at Seattle, and tho wealth of forest will em-outage all industries of that sort. There it a steady increase of population on the Sound, and no doubt it aspiration a a commercial iiolnt havo some thing to do witli this growth. All along the Sound fisheries and canneries are in operation when fish run up tho steam. We do not find l'ugct Sound strictly within tho boundaries of what wo term the great Columbian region, nnd ihall not deal with statistics and descrip tion as fully a with other portions of the Northwest. Wo hae given a glimpto it the country and the people, the induitrie and the products, resource ami ilovclopcmeuts, ami it is a very attractive picture. It is an interest ing region becauso of tho facilities here aiioriicu ior commerce. ine grauii snow piaks that look down upon it such as Ta coma, Mount I laker, and the serrated tutu nut ot the lofty Oly mpicrange forma tccuo of grandeur that astonishes all visitors. The shores are rocky bluffs frequently, but lovul for tome distauce in many part. Tho streams that nut in ou tie Kast side have charmlui! and fertile valleys, nnd nre being cleared up and peopled by very enterprising settlers. e have sailed up the ocean shore in fancy for five hundred miles; have visited the Sound country; have crossed the divide that separ ate tho Sound water from the Columbia; have entered tho river from the ocean ana tailed up its wooded shore and past It pic turesque islands, until wo found ourselves within the great canyon by means of which it ha cleft the mountains in twain, and have tho tin North wett. pnopccw or tiik koktb rACirio ntoiox. The export of the Columbia reach more than fifteen million of dollar annually, The fisheries on the Columbia alone, produce canned and packed salmon valued at three mil lion ot dollar a year, and the lumber trade i extensive and must increase a timo passe. Effort are making for the propagation of fih in the streams by artificial hatching, so that the supply will be fully maintained for all time, and a the salmon from tho Columbia I remarkably Hue eating, the busiues can be depended oil to support thousand of families anil permanently eurich the couutry. Rut the coining settler is more interested in know ing somethiog about .the character of the oi ivii.ii vuw titiFUi.M.iita it. v Mill, ftm thus hail a very good introduction to tho perial region that we call the I'acifio No and the prodnct to be derived from ita culti vation, in which ho will naturally expect to engage Ho will also wish to know what de mand thero is for thcao product and to what market they nro to be shipped. WIIKAT 0R0W1N0. Tho great staple of production is wheat, which is naturally suited both to the soil and climate of every part of this region. Tho Willamette valley has been cropped in some part for half a century, a some of tho ser vants of tho Hudson Hay Company aliundoned tliu business of hunting and trapping a far back oa 18,10, and commenced wheat growing nt tho desire of tho company. Since then the saino Held have been in almost continuous cultivation, and tho permanent qualities ot i ho soil can bo understood from a statement iiiada to us by Hon, F, X. Mnthieu, a wealthy merchant and farmer, who live nt Hiittevilla ou French 1'rairie, Marion county, who say ho OAiis tho first field ever sowed to wheat in Oregon, and that after it had been in continu ous cultivation for half a century ho summer fallowed it and had a yield of X bushels to tho acre in lb"l. This mutt liavo been supe rior toil, but it illustrate tho great strength mid productiveness a( tliu land in tho Willam ette valley. Wheat, then, is tho great staple of agiicultural production. The pietentycar this river will send foith v etuis Wind for all part of F.uropo, cat rying eight million bush els of wheat of a fairer quality than any raised in tho United States or California. The wheat of tho Willamct.o valley blings a premium in Liverpool of flvo cent n bushel over tho best grown in California, U'causu the Uour is uf such unusual whiteness that Kuglish bakers mix it'with darker and stronger grado to obtain n whiter and more dcsiublu Hour. Our wheat i a plump Wiry, and compare favorably witli the bust giown in Kugland, or tho choicest from the best wheat-growing provinces of Russia, nud is higher priced than tho choicest product of Minnesota,' their "gilt edged nil winter." If tho seed grown in the Eastern States is planted hero it grows plump nud full, and will immediately change anil improve in aptearanco so that tl o hastens grower who furnished tho seed would not be lieve tho pioduct to bo the same variety. To Illustrate wo will tell an incident concerning tho first shipment ot wheat over made from Oregon. riKST MIlrMKNT Of WIIKAT MOM 0MI1OS, It must havo been over twenty, and perhaps tweiity-fivo year ago, that Mr. Joseph Watt, an enterprising man, who ha done much to dcvclope the country and ita interests, thought hu would try a ildpment of wheat to Now York. So he loaded a vessel, and in due time, afti r halt circling tho glolc, it reached port, and tho cargo was offered for sale Tho ap pearance of tho wheat was unusual. It waa so wliite and plump and round that peopU wouldn't bcliove that it was a healthy pro duct of tho soil. An experienced miller gav a professional opinion that tho wheat waa damaged; that the cargo was wet and th wheat had (welled, so It waa put up for salt) under these discouraging circumstances, and tho samo miller had some one on haud tobuyls for himself and L,o made a good thing grinding it, nnd the enterprising Oregonian who wa tryirgin a loyal way tointroducothe product of Oicgon to the world, pocketed a lots ot about $8,000 as a reward for hi enterprise Having heard thi itory originally from lion. John Minto, we afterward inquired of Mr. Watt himself, and the above it substantially correct, though it is year since wo heard ft told, it illustrate!!, in rather a humorous way too, the quality of wheat grown In tho Colum bian region. WOOL OHOWINO AND SHEEP HUiBANDRV. We excel in another great staple Uiatatanda iu the foremost rank of necessities -of com merce. Wool growing ha developed into an Immense business, and tlve export of 1880 ol this product alone reached 8,000,003 pound, worth over $2,000,000. The enterprise o( wool grower ha Introduced the bet breed of sheep, and our fioslt aro graded up to a K)int whero the wool ha become of tho most desirable quality for manufacturer and U eagerly sought by them. The value of sheep in a regiou that affords them feed the year round and offer immense range wlsuro they roam with only the care of a shepherd to keep them together can be imagined, especially when in addition to the natural increase of the Hock it is seen that the fleece year atUr yvar pay back, with few exception, the en tire cost of the animal. We can only allud to theep husbandry briefly in this introductory chapter, but in connection with the detailed description that will follow we slull give facta relating to theep husbandry a well a of all other branche of production, in each section of the I'acifio North West. It is found that where wool is the main object, a it the caao here, and where wether yield tho Itoaviest fleece, that the common theep, well bred up with Merinoei, i the moat profitable, and ii the grain growing region of tho Willametts) valley sheep husbandry i found to be u ea Mntial aid to good agriculture,
