ral
P
WILLAMETTE! FARMER: POltTLAND, OREGON, JANUARY '28, 1881
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luul tfttj Wk by th
riixAMirrrr. tunMr.it nui.iHiii.tf: to.
TP.IIMS OK RUII.SCniITIO.Vi
tmjtr, (I'oetssre psld), In tdrtce
JM months, (postwe suil). In nJiaiire. .
(H tlMn ill tuonlU will U, per month . . , .
fJ.M
l.gft
.84
ADVERTIStN'O RATES
sTeTtlwnients will b Inserted, proviillnjr thsj set
sssysc-toule,, at tha following UMs of rsles"
tint) Incf, of !.' per inonu,., I 2.M
.srso Indict of space per month 6.00
st-telf eeluntn per month lVOo
tnlumn pr month 3000
4r8ample copies sunt free on tppllcitlon.
Address stl Mftrs to:
8. A. CLARKE, Mincer.
iVKl fl At I'orlltlld. Orevnti. mil
Ww
Ti Krl clssa null insllcr.
III1 TiSi; COIiI'.1!ll(IA.
The Post ana Present of tha Willamette and
Columbia.
DUerlptlon or Bcencry of Marvoloua Beauty
ana aranduor a Wlntor.s Journey
Tin Cascades.
IVIItorUI 'orri'iuiiJii(t.
WAI.I.A WAI.I.A, August III, IHHI
Almost thirty years ago, when this region
was yciiiiii! in cIvIIIj.iIihii, so young tli.-tt its
sovnges were iiiisulsliicil, and no signs of v i 1 1 -gii
will few attempts nt settlement could ho
found Knst of tliu Cascades, I joiirnuyril on
Hummer fnnn Portland toTlio Dallcriin Isiats,
pulling with might anil main ng.iinst tint Spring;
fiooils of thu Ciiliiinhi.i. 'I'lii'ii tliciu wctr no
stammers to tlo tho writ k and tho shores weru
uiikcarrcd ly thu hainl of man, whilu thu
Jnilian uauou was a wry frcicnt fc.i till o, and
tlio lodge of thu tribes weru clustered about
tliu llshcries nt thu Cascades, nml also nt 'I'll
)slli-. It wnsn striking featurr of tlioionnlo
serines to im'ii tho Indian llshciiiun toiling
mmiil tliu Isdllng wains to l.iy up atom ol
lull for Winter me, with KKrar or nooop nut
standing on some isolated lock amid fiinoiis
waters, nml swinging to thu snnaw, who
waited mi thu main sluuu, thu hiign salmon hu
capond fnnn tho sticam 'I'lirn nil nlxjiit
wan young in (vibration, nml I no fivsh
from homo nuit fristcrii I iff, wlthatl tku world
licforu iin, traiifcircd in u fun mouths from
thn hccuos of e.uly colonial lifii on tho Atlan
tic mid thu oldest eivillJitiou of thu continent,
to n land kii now that the legu of thu irpuhlic
had searc'ly stlctohcil to color It. It Will
after viruWof bullcting tint u leached tin
Durai("(Hlynvi;ic in nil thu vision of inoiin
sin grainjflujfias wu patni'il slowly liythowoii'
tlcrfii) slitjs, unti'lini thu lii'icu ai Cast'.iilus
so inadu tliu hniK isirUiKu thniugli thu tin
ehsutuil t;orp and tin u jnniin'il up the
tnni lint pl.iuid stioaiii iiImivo tho falls in s
widu liottomuil ll.it lsi.it, wlioiu In oad sail
was spread to eateh thu fa(nini Clnnunk
.wind.
Illlt IIOISK AMI Nll.MUN itivi.n.
Wlieii uiviliMlioii nine, it as Imrnn up
tLo liro.nl Colinulii.i with fierstiicken miners
from California for its standnnl heaiersj tliey
weru tilinlof thu uoiuout plaa is that remain
id in California, and with Mood heated liy
tho wild ti'Hirts fin in thr Upper Coluinhint
weru rnlnnu tou.mls Salmon uvir, lloisi
Jlurnt rivur, and other Hiiuts, with thu
jpvcil of thu gold hunter. TliM eivlli.ition
s ol tint llili st, hut Its elleet wan
mailitul in I'Miianol strnmrrs and nillrend
porUjjes to U luiilt, and m.idu settle.
intuit of tho npHr eounliy sisilii.
Ags-iii I will Isiiuu up thu river on this wild
Hood tide, and pieiettl tho interior on sumn
tidil wniu tint swept over thu inouiitius and
Tslluys alike. Where now mueoiititlcssfaiuis
or uiuiiiiutril heiils, thu Iniueli ura then
waind supreme mil uiieiiips'il, 'I'omiis and
villages weivuoiiilin; to lifn 111010111111111 was
loveliiinn thu yei ms of . 1 nli.ilile civilisation
timu was ilnivving the dutiuet linn Intween
-luvagerv audsisiety, and I witnessed, in many
joiinieyinj,"", thu slow donlnpiuent of the fn
tiliv. A WINTH; Jlll'KN..
Ono of the wildest 1 pisislen of a life that
Uu kiiovtn soiuo v.uietv and adventure, was
mliisl tovvaids thu close of the most tenihlo
Winter ever l.mnwi in tliu N'nrth west, when,
jletenuined to null home, I traveled over
mm liuudiisl 1111I01 011 snow shoos tu the I'll
les, and then down tho I'oliiiiilui river on the
iro. 'I'li4 iiiiiuut'iuii tveie draixil with snow
and 111 cry c.ucade or fountain that UmihhI Iiiiiii
rlill'or wait wat fiiieu into niotii tauUstie
khapos than the viatem nssuiued when they
"umini ilovv 11 at l.idnro. " So, it is with 11
wivsltli of put iisMK'iatioiis tint I travel thu
river njiaiu, after an interval of fifteen )car.,
tu liud seareu 11 trace left of the Indian cuinc
or thuntvauei tliciuclvcs, tlunii;li the liver
liurt' where thev traieisu tliu disiupted
nuic, .ire so little cliangcd from the louj aj;o,
uiul .iromi wild and inuvtvsililo for the inoit
lil, that .iivutuiy 1111) pim and thu "con
tiuu.ms w tsuls" leuiniu with se.iivu .1 change.
Tll.l.
My last v nut to that rcijiim was 111 ImCi,
when I traveled at eoriixpoiuleiit for cvcial
-puimincnt jmiilials and vi.itcd thu luiiun
iToteri if 1vicim Oregon and Idaho. A frvi
j uan had then wrought woudeiful inipiove
nieut, hut no euuiTj'tloii was entcit.umsl of
tl.u iiimc Inline, when a i;nculuiv should a.cit
iU suprrmaey, jfiuniiij; herds and lliK'Us lie
dcivcu uw.ty hy tho plm, and the face of tu.
tnni lellevt the sheen of a universal hatuot.
Tiiuii has w rouijht such ch.ingivi an to demon
strate that whervier huneli (jraw wa,sl
ulicat will thuvo as well. I pitvsumu tlmiv-ir-all,
1 is tiuo to thu httci, that liunch urain
dnuites the extent of the wheat i;rowiu; le
pioni though nl coui.o it is foiiu-t grow in;,'
icant on wiM nod nvl.y sjniU wheio whivat
-vultuio will not U attempt!. 'I'u-d-iy thero
aru thriving towns, villics ami latins on lull
ami in dale, over a wide legion vvhcie tho
aiudtlien whistlisl put thu U-ndinx hunch
gnisi mid uu hetils cnuipc.1 tho luttuivs. Tito
tramfoi uiatioii is iv onderf ul though no moio
than all new unions luio umIIih! - thustrau
Kut feature Is-ing tho f.uttlut for so long a
liuio settlers had little conception of tho re
sourvsM of thu couutiy.and agriculturalists do
U)isl their ilvimaud iiHiu thu soil, eoiitiuuit;
.tbeiiielvi-s generally tu thu liver iHittoius,
wlulj thu richest haniots hau Ken fouiul
upon thu uplands.
MKVVS AlDSO Till'. IllXr.ll.
Tho Navigation Company now oilers ti the
traieler or tourist ihlightful facllties) going
ulmiid u uuviiilliwiit stunner nt night Jim oo
cupy a inoie than coinfortalite statu nxun, and
ut liuukf.nt tail in thu morning liud tho juur
,uey commenced 1 tho Isvit has p.iol fnnn tliu
Wlllametto to tho broader lUssl of tho Coluin
tua ruul a ho-irso whistle miuouuciii tliu ap
Vooch tu Vancouver. Though it U August
t tu river Is brimming nil with tho IUkkIi that
usually spend themstlvcs in June. I'lom nil
tho rnnes of Montana, Idaho nml roiiio of
Utah," ns well ns those of Otegon nnd Wnih
ington, thu snow s or n Winter, inclement be
yond tho memory of man or savnge, nro still
melting mid flowing townrd tho sci. The
shores nro still brimming full, though tho
water is falliiiif! islands seem nllont. mid tho
meadow latuli iiicitlicrsiuonreiuuiuniicnrniii
nu inland sen. On either side nru dairy farms
and urns! Linos hut tho stay of tho Mood has dis
turhed many fanners' calculations. Wheat
is scarce known hero as n product; tho great
wheat Melds of tho Willamctto havo been' left
behind: tho shores nro wooded with mountains
in thu dutnncu, and tho country is only grad
uallv beinif redeemed from its wild State.
Hut this region is so near market that it must
be eventually valuable mid mndu tho most of.
An hour later and wo are leaving tho vnlloy
lands behind mid lieniliug in among tho near
Approaching ranges; soon tliu foothills grow
precipitous; una unit another point of beauty
deeIoss n growing inteiust; thu views of
Mount Hood that wiru surpassing, mid of St.
Ilelein nml llniiiicrto thuNotth, whoscsnowy
ciou us looked down on the changing panor
ama of thu lower rivir with Indescribable.
beauty nml grmuleur, nru nil shut oil' by thu
out-reaching anus of thu giant Cascades. No
morn charmiiigmul Mlbdiiiug pictttiu can hu
It sired than thu placid landscape and water
reaches of tho lower river, on which thu grand
sumiuitsofshesiiowy pcaksiircfnrcicr looking,
with nwlul nml illstaut majesty, iroiu over
nml ijcyoiui hills mul valleys nml many inter.
cuing ruiiu'is. The sensations of thu soul nro
nt onco soothed and nwed by tho far leaching
view, innilu suiiliinu liy liio.ui naseil peaks
whoso towsring crests nnd shoiildeni wrnr
robes of snow that havo been woven by storms
of nil tho ngc mid nru inure eternal than tho
glacieis. Ilut thu sceno changes nnd tho in
terest even increases ns wu iasi
IN AMOMI rilE .MOKNTAI.NH.
Hero is n pillar of basalt, carved by frost nml
Hood, that liears tho iufelicitious u.iuiu of
Rooster Hock, given no doubt by somo early
navigator moru fond of thu giutenpiu than
thu sublime. Where towering dills aru
hiAped together further 011, onu in.ky
summit stands out in Mil 1 cliff, known
as Pulpit Hock, 1 under, on thu insh
ington side, wu approach thu buttressed
walls of Inlgjity plecipices, nt whosu basu
rim nlry pinnacles, and nhoiu them for
miles, stand mountains that mu rock
terraced in niilist sh.iics. Wu mu sweep
ing past onu of thu most notable foituies of
this wonderful galaxy of mountain scenes
Capu II0111, Ciono under thu leu of thu wide
dill's soiun veiitiiiesouio iutiiider hns hail thu
couriiguto iiuiii'ovii 11 Is'iicli of uiilaml, that the
mountain has forgotten to tiend upon, nnd
phcothiro n home, garden mul orehnrd, that
oirera w cakconti.ist to thu 01 urw helming wild
ni of tho surroundings. The rilcr llows by
nml through these scenes, winding around
huge Mulls mul past knaltie columns, hsilc
d down iiK)ii by summits whoio crowns
01 ei look thu other's finest coicicd sides; now
nml then 11 (iclibly I -each or maple and alder
covered shore contrasts with the forest of
lira that risu iiIhuh mid lieyoud. Hero is a
watefall that jsmrs over 11 sheer clilf, feitther
cd Into u stic.nu of spray ere it ruaehes the
basin n thousaiul feet below. Yonder is
another, which lenH over ouu mountain blow
from 11 diy bight, to rush through a canyon
mid make another trap to reach tin. rocky
nmiI. These nro thu most lcautifiil falls 111
view, though wu catch n glisipso of many les.
see sti earns that make wild leaps among thu
mountains. Wu nro penetrating thu very
heait of thu groat mountain ran ires, and won-
ill r by 'what weary work of eouutlw &
Xutini) IiiIImI to m.-ikvu this nathvinv fur thn
gi cites t of Western rivers, mid carved such
immortal monuments along its course.
Whilu wu piss on thmiiglitliisnliuostuuhm
ken wilderness of mountain shores, as thf
iniiguilieent steamer sweeps within stones
throw of thn deeply wooded banks, a doo mid
two fnwus Is'sidu tier came out of the finest
iiwin the samlv beach mid stood looking at
the essiL 11 piituto of native wonderment an
iitlltt M1111I1I luio to sev. They stood there
tisinstoulhis to 111011 until 11 shout fioiuthe
lsi.it suit them Isiiiuding thiougli thu woods
with leans that told how Inght had overcome
iistouisliuiellt. A llliee elinimilig incident
could not have been deiised to mid atluctioii
to thu icelie.
Till, I'Ast'tlU'jt.
liefoie we leach the pottage, in thu leiy
niidit of the niiiuiitnius range, the northern
shores 1 cecils and leave a deep woodiil bay,
fioin the until' of which lises Castle Hock, 11
woiiililful fcutilic, for its sides seem pi eel p
Itoin, thiingli sli.iply, mid its sinuiuit, with
llrs grow tug on shelving hights nud oceaiond
clefts, towels nenily l,.'(HI feet iilsno thu
wooded plain, liven in this seemingly im
penetrable ililnos theio aie settlomeiits, for
.1 tcrntoii.il pojt olllee Ismi-s thu name of
C.istlu ItiK-k. I.inding 011 a s.uidy island, wo
change to couifortabto imis nud soon go i
miles to the Upper Cascade, nil tho while
with abrupt e tills in view, touciing r.mgisi all
urviiud, tho nud uvrr at tmiM whiiliug into
foam as it dashes over huge bouldcis in its
plunges to reach thu Inwir level. I li.ivubecu
told that tilde is a fall of eighty feet in the
live inile-s. The Cascade piopcr .tie worth
seeing. When 1 first passu) beio many Indian
bulges wen' built up II the U'lK lies of the shore,
and to-da), a we gaini',1 .1 gluupso of tho
liver Kink, we mw a soht.irv siwash lUhing
with a scisip net (nun a siiiirohllug made of
hiKv that suuueil 11 lUsiitv thiougli which
thu watir iusliis with ilimiuisheil force. 0u
of too sightsalong hi'loistho hlockhnuewliere
twcntv-live )iMrs ago Sheiid.iu mul a li.iudfiil
uf solilicm wore beseiged fur ilajs by hostile
Indians,
nu. Minim, tiivrw.
for about litty miles nlniio the C.uc.idis
tho liver llows iiiictly through lK-autifulinonii-t.iiu
scenery, but not possessing the uilduess
and giaudeiir, nor any of tho remarkable traits
that attach tu tho lower stream mid Its moun
tain shores, There are some settlements, but
the usual view is 11 wild natural shoietliat has
nut Ken invaded by thu hand of m in. (irad
ually the uiouut.iins grow kilo and dwindle te
fiHithills, biwvn mid grass coverisl but
destitute of tinilxTi the se-enery is tugged,
with ilill's and lulls; occasionally thcie is rtKiui
for 11 faun, but not inviting or attractive to
ono vv hoe oyes havo re:ently fiMsted 011 tho
homes, liclds, guives, oich.uds and b.vi vests
of the Willamette valley.
As tho afternoon wanes wu resell Dalles
City, .t busy town that trades with an exten
sive region ami stands sentinel at tltogata
way of tho Columbia, tho first champion wo
met of tho "upper countiy." Wo havo rali
nl another vliuuto and another (venule. If its
dying citicus "Uibhlo u' given licl.ls" at this
season of tho )car, it is of thoo they have
left bollUltl thelll, TllO W.xsllim-tOll shoro I
"roek nbUxlt" a sand island is in tho near em-aged, were the constantly rvcurriug feature
view, ivsky Uiiclies form the kickgroimd vf ' of intercut, intcusitied by tho ftespieut seitiud
tho tow ii, and its busy streets aro guiltless ef at tunes near tud then far off -of tho dis
shade, though thero aro pleasant iiomo spots .charge of j-unt powder were heurd, like
further back. Tho whistling winds eoinol the echoes of a e-annon.ide, making a road way
esota
trity, a nu
. thu
lion goes iinnii in iiatul w itli man's pi;
for The, Dalles is a thrifty place nihil
entfi prising population, whilo bejt!
rocky near around aro hills tint toll nl
ecelit
harvests and homes that havo heart! to wor
ship in them.
Our day's Journey lm tnken in through
varied and womlerful scenery; from tho "wrli
foot" climatu of thn fair Willamette to thu
dry region of thu wido interior. Wo have fol
low edthti river channel thiougli grand moun
tain ranges, mul now nro piepnrcd to rsalio
wnoi gteai variety rvnturo nisuino in dispells
ing blessing! to man.
TIIK IIALI.M Or TIIK C0I.UMIIIA.
Thcro is n glimpse of lifo and prosierity at
Dalles city, but tho prospect would not bo
inspiring to a poet or landscape painter who
wanted foliage mul rich coloring. Heio wo
tako cars, 1 1 miles, lor Cclilo, on tho poitago
road nrouml Tho Dalles of tho Columbia, a
weary ride, relived from monotony only by
tho glistening river that had carved its bed
through ns ilieary nnd barren mul (iud-for-sakcu
n region 11s ilasol.ttinn can ldcsciihc.
Kveiywheio idling tliu river nro shifting sands
that mu continually swept by tho wailing
wind! mid nro piled in wastes that look like a
pctrilied sea. Thero arc n very few oases,
where corn grown mul gardens nru planted in
thu bottom, but thu sccnu is usually piicipieu
upon thu .South, liver mul f.ainl and rocky
chasms In thu near view, and beyond mo tho
rocky shores mul Mulls of Washington Terri
tory. Wu rush nnd cuivo nlong under tho
bluir with dust nnd sand lllling everything.
At last wo reach tho Dalles proper, known ns
thu (Irent Dalles, vvhero tho nvvolen river
rnges with n fury that is grand mul ninguill
eietit beyond description.
At low water tho channel Is cmiliuul to n
deep chasm 011 thu Washington side, so nar
row that I have stood on tho Oregon rocks
(lava spread nml worn into llssiirdi nud tough
nud nigged in nil respects) nnd havo thrown
n stouu from cliirtorlilf thnt hold all thcie
was of tho gmit liver, but it is said tho inr
low gorge 11 almost liottouilcss. Now thu
watcis uiu spiralling out far ami widu mid
rush through with feat fid velocity, dishing
ogniust thu hidden rocks nnd throwing up
hetu mul thciu fountains of angry spray.
They seem to send waves in sipimlnuii to
waste themselves 011 thesu locks, mid now
nud then ouu foaming crest seems to githir
for the fray nnd rushing past all tho others
spends itself in wasted foam. It is wonder
ful to watch this elemental war mid thu sight
piys well for all thu dust nud desolation ve
encounter.
Time was when this llthing sco-mi
called lorth thousands of Indians who i.imH..,
among tho clefts mid ledges and li-licd fot
salmon to dry ami lav up fur their wmtii
supplies, but the ml man's day is almost
over. Ili-iu wo still seo n iciuuant .f tribes
living in soiialor; theto is thu lodge composed
of material iudescribablu by u 01 da and look
ing as unkindly ns thu natiliu of thdsiltioiind
iugs. Women mid children nru near it and
not far oil' is tho tilliciiin with his scoop net,
watching for tho salmon as they attempt to
nseciul thu cicvatsu among the rocks w beio ho
is stationed.
Cclilo is said to Is! an uhortgiiinl teini that
siguitie "thu place of tho w inds," mid they
whistle so that thu liuht conlauo of nsteauieis
Hag-stag it-pints thu stormy timu. Wu round
another "Capo Horn" as wo npproarh it, mid
pass tho foaming waters of tho-JUUlo Dallei,
IIIH lar IH1IOW. iimwiimii ..l,l tneril
was 11 very pleasant lefugo from, ho howling
winds mid w hilling sands nnd a delightful e
ehnngu for tho bleak and kiiliaro.iislv toman
tlo shores, and thcie wo slept unbroken until
sometime before day. w lieu thu sound of trun
dling trucks was exchanged for thu clang of
tliu engine licit mul input strol.u ol tliu stern
wheel. IMikiug out. it seemed ns if the
stcaini i' was alI0.1t among tho shadows. Thu
uvcr was as black is ink, nud thu gray hills
and sunburned, basaltic c'illsou cither side,
wcio like iiiegiilar walls that hemmed 111 in
with threatening and indistinguishable black
liuss. Ilut I have Ikm n through that poitiou
of tho tiver in tho light of day nud know that
It is well vim tli seeing nnd seem es nduiiratiou.
Thciu is not 11 thing of k-autj, viewed 110111
any point of cllcnun.ito sentiiueiitility, but it
is grandly beautiful front tho robust stand
siiut fnnn vrlucli lean compels hud i-ouipieni
natliie. The shore's ai e vaiied nt Cclilo by
the iulictinn of the Deschutes, vvhith is wallcll
in by its sepanite canyon, mul up nvv ays is the
mil 1 oad luidgo that spins thu toircnt.
Sikiii we come to Hell (late, 11 veritable ter
lestriil iufeino where the waters divide, and
the river si ems to be lost as It whiils among
locks that bar tho way, and ust isliiuls that
me inoie inhospitable than tho crags whose
sti.it.is ol cliauglug Uiicilt lorin tuesliures. It
is a pietty place, siie.iking fnnn 1111 esthetic
st.indKiint, nud olio feels decidedly Utter,
and with a lucinoi) vvoitli piccrviug as "a
joy foie'ver," when the passage uf Hell (into
is safely made, even thoiijh Klvsium is not
jt within view, .lolm Day rapids mo a point
of iutiiest, nml bcfoie leaching thesu wu p.iss
.1 iirtglit-liHikiug villages callcil Loiuiuiiiis, 011
the Washington shore, the eutivKit for thu
Klickitat valley that lies over the lulls to thu
ninth. Thcie is a uaiiow stun of kiiuI and
sell under tho bliill that 11 made tho most of,
and the oldest inhabitant must have phnteil.
mi orchard, for his heme was hidden by trees,
and thev .ippeusl loaded with fliiit. mi oasis
in the d'eseit. In tho hundred mid ten miles
from Cclilo to W.illul.i we may have noticed a
doon ranches nlong thu river, mid tho lsi.it
fiispiently vv histlii 1 at uninhabited pl.ices.sud
put oil' goods 011 sandy shore's whoso desola
tion was iiubiokeii even by tho preseueo of
grazing herds. At ono place hundreds of Uigs
of winiI vveiu waiting shipment without 11
lialut ililo sign within view. On the Ore-
gun sule, nearly a muulicd lnues up, was
the
TOWN OK IVIVTIIUV,
Staling at u vacancy with its handful of
lonesome looking houses. Tor over a linn-
ilred miles this was all tho evidence of
civ ilir.ition, except that 011 tho Oregon side
thcie weru parties of railroad men, with many
exviups and working scpiads inactive operation;
otherwise than this there was 0110 unbroken
scene of desolation.
.MmvoJuIiii Day's liver the shores of the
Columbia gradually loso interest, for tho
droaiiness becennes uuiuotonoiis, and tho
shore loso tho nluiiptuess that nude their
desolation attractive. At last tho hills, that
uro .it tunes close by nud very much sixinml
and fun one, I in their brown, kire steepness,
rivexlu from tho shore, aro tephcel by lesser
ones, mid they nt last disappear and thusaudy
shoiv is low and uninviting, only now anil
then graced k.y willows, and tho prospect ti
0110 kuc, kurcn re-ich in nil dirtxtious. Tho
railrivel workers consistixl of l.tHX) whito men
and l.VM Chinese and their lino of vvoiU was
close to tho river's edge. Tho oft-rvvurriiig
camps, we 1 king s.pi.ids with shovels raising a
cloud uf dust, the carts and scraik-r Inwilv-
loaded with drifting sand mul Nature's.:
tl.ro'igh tho rocltv points. Wo sou n few hor
ses nml cattle, out senrcu any siicep. 1 nu
hills In sight me many of them pastmed wu
know, nn I w 0 also knnvv that back a few miles
from the river are stock 1 .inches nnd fanning
districts, nnd that near tho distant mountain!
tho oncu w ihleriiesi is thickly )-npled, nch
with harvests nnd has luWomcil like the iiue.
llutnlnug tho great river the sceiiu is diemv
and iiioiiotonous. Occasionally wo liud Chi
nesa cimpi, known by their matting walls,
and wo sco tliitn navigating tho river in an
clumsy way in uncouth boat! that they uo
to go Iroir. camp to camp, lor along tno samiy
shoics thero aro said to bo alwiit forty camps
of Chineso engaged in washing tho river sands
for gold, mul making wag s at least, or they
would not work, Since my pasago the gra
ders havo been replaced by tho track-lav ers,
working fnnn each cud, and soon they will lie
done, nud the scone will 1 evert to desolation,
except when somo passing steamboat or clam
orous train sweeps by to give it n momentary
nwnkening. Above Umatilla tho hilli assert
tlicmsclvc! again, mul Brow upon tho ludseaio
until wo mcot towering Mulls on either side,
whoso sidei are lavel ed with ilill'clcnt strata
of basalt, varying in color, or shade rather,
with some of perfect columnar foimntion, nud
others not. On thu nru tli side tho cleft inoiin
tnin wears n shape us if Natiilo's hand had
carved thereon fcatuies bori-ovnil from tho
1,'gyptian Sphinx. Tho view is still finer.look
Ing iKick. mini bovoi.d Wallula, hecamu it
includes on tho South 11 minor headland that
stands up liku n ledoubt, on top of which liso
twin pillars called thu Sisters, whilu the ridge
they represent has a rooky, rugged trest, that
is outline d against
TIIK lllKV IIAI'KIIUOt'Ml
Of tho higher rango beyond. Only twelvo
miles abovo Wallula is tho junction of Snake
rivorand tho Columbia, tho one sweeping up
from tho South and tho other from thu North,
mul at thu low shore of tho peninsula is the
present terminus of thoNoith l'acilio llnilrnnil
ami tiio town ol Aliiswortn. i no town is
nothing to speak of, neither is Wallula, twelve
miles lielow. All thesu river tow n nro make
shifts -inrro places to land nnd get away from
aisooti as w imt ami tidoorstu.im will petiuit.
They havo a nun-defying and (Sol-forsaken
look, nud iiichitcctiirc has not reached them.
Arlmriciilturo is utithouulit of, thu graces can
not live thcie, and tho null thing of harmony
tint could exist would lie mi I'oli.iu harp
that sli-itihl lniii- to tin- m-asitro of the
wind', for the winds r.iv- nUmt these livei
towns, and I eitcli my thought fi'mi thu thrill
ing sounds that eoine from tie t'degrnph wins
I siw Ailisworth in the night, and piiispoctod
the S.1111I dunes whole its few houses and sev
eral railroid tracks are situi'tod. It is 11 busy
place, mid eiviliel that uu liipior ii soli I
there, thanks to the prilde-nco of the railroad
comnatiy. Its present is limited to the exi
genciusof thu hour. Tho sound of whining
saws can be linud cutting up by stuniu power
logs of llr that have I ice 11 driven down thu
Yakima river for many a mile mul with Inlin
itu skill, for which pin hisu men bred to the
trado havo been impoi ted. and only for this
living successfully necomplished, the i-ompiny
would have a hard time of it getting timber
for tics, bridges, lumber nml nil other usei,
for there is no forest within its leach until
tho road shall climb out of the desert and
reach thu wooded slopes toward thu Cociir
il'Alrno mountains. Such is Ailisworth, nml
siichthushnrcsof tlio upper rivcrs.for when we
pass thohasaltio Mull's that coiifiout us below
Wallula, wu open Uhii a long reach of low
lying shores. At Ailisworth thu steamer
aisled to tho right nnd tutus up Snake liver,
ior
OVVIMI Til ll.VI'llis,
There is not navigation for any gteat distauco
up thu Ciiliimbii, ami if there were theio is
little in tha' iliiection to freight down again
to iiu-ct thu w 01 Id's necessity, whilu fur n
hundred miles up Snako river there mu 1 Hid
ings wheio thorn-anils of tuui of wheat will
siNiii wait transportation to tho sen. Wallula
is a great shipping point, mid above, at Snake
uvrr, aru warehouses nud landings where
thousands of farmers haul down their products,
generally wheat grown along the Ulna Moun
tains to thu South, wheiu thu fertile belt
reaches along for one bundled miles thiougli
Voluinhia county ulono, while to thu Ninth
111 e the rich lields and increasing product of
me wine ami woiiiictiui r.uousc legion.
W.VI.UV W.vt.i.v, August '.'I, IhM).
This place is icachcl by n iiauow-i-nugo
lailnud nlsuit Sl'J miles long, that connects
Wallula 011 tho Columbia with the nch fann
ing legion that lies close under tho llluo
.Mountains, Wallula is a miserable looking
ssit, that owes ts entile iin'101 tnnco to its
availability usa lauding place for steamers,
which led to tl.o construction of tho railroad
two years ago b a wealthy and enterprising
citizen, Dr. D. S. Ikike-r, nn entcrpriio that
added nothing to the impoi Unco of Wnlhil.i,
but greatly enriched thu projector, who js ono
uf thoso men under w I10.se iiiaiiipulaticiis thu
commonest things in life some way turn to
gold or its espuvulent. Your ago he diiftcd.
against the curie ut, up tho Columbia, l-e-vanie
a kiukir and land uioiiodit mid culiuinatisl
ins career ov nuiiiiuig tho slialilnest rattle
trap of a railioud that vim ever made availa
ble fur coiumoiual uses. It cIuiiIhsI over
ridges It ought to havo e-oue thloiiL-hi its
schelule was only to Ik- folluvvo.1 when the
train was uiiiisu ilk light, but such as it was
it held thu gioiuid ng.iinst tho world and
carried aw a the whivit fiuai u region that
mi productive, and is said to have easily paid
for itself in ouu v ear's operation, which may
not be stiictlv true, but is no! impossible. It
coined money for thu doctor, and when ho
found it ndvis ible to sell out to tho Oregon
Steam Navigation Coniviny ho did so to great
advantage. This t-u.ul, under new manage
ment, has Won greatly unproveil, thu grades
uiciidi-il, tho track graieled and lelanl.
Tho Wall 1 Walla river empties a small
striMin at Wallula nnd threads tliu sur
rounding desert with a braid of giecu willows
and sometimes a bonier of grass that occa
sionally widens to a meadow, but except tho
venture) that follows tho narrow KhI, nud that
sometimes fades cntii civ, thu railway winds
oil among grc.esew ik d plains and barren lulls
for many miles direct!) east, though occa
sional cattle may lo seen cropping tho scat
tering bui.eh-grais; but a few mile's Itforo
reaching Watl.i Walla tho sight of farms glad
den ttiu eye, even orchards atv to bo seen,
im-aduws and gaixlens suiilo along tliu river,
ami w e liml that we aru entering upon tho rich,
fcitilo belt that skirts tho Uluu mountains fur
'AX) milej, and gives iinportauco to tbeKuiti
fill town of
wall A VV VLI.V.
This place has a business quarter that is
building up substantially; tho streets are
w iiU and 111 any ordinary season are thronged
with country teams and even with p.vck trams,
though they aro not near so nopicnt as vv lien
tho distant mining regious liail to l supplied
from here. Tho plain on which Walla W'alla
it locatetl i naturally supplied with water
from the tprcailing branches of Walla Walla J
river; tho residences aro many of them ipiltu
charming, and somo rven elegant. Thoipiick
soil lespondi to litigation, nud vvhciu was
originally 0 treeless plain now aro beautiful
sti-ccts and clustered liomci, all boweied in
by r.npidlv tlinving lioplirs, maples, box
efiler, or locusts, w hil" occasionally cotton
wooiN, or rather balm of (lilc-nU grow beside
the little streams. The placo n attractjvo
and tapidly 'hriving; has many stoics, lots of
minor shops, business establishments of nil
degree", including tlnce Innks, somo teally
good hotils, thno live newspapers, 0110 of
them n aprightly dally that gives tho latest
nuws in brief dipatche, and in gcneml trade
mul population is, and probably will leiuaiti,
tho niostinipottantpoiiitiii tho upper country,
because tho Oregon Hallway nml Nnvigation
Company (that now control! nil trnnspoi tntion,
liy atean'ilsMt or railiend, oil tho Colutnbia
river, nnd nlo thu Stenincrs to San Francisco
that nru ns lino as nuy tint llont thu ocean)
seems to intend to havo Walla Walla as tho
center of iti railway system for tho rutin) tip
per region. So Wnfla Wnlln lias a good
piospect for tin rutin e, nnd ns time grows will
spiead more and improve nnd beautify, until
ncrlians its nonlnr linos nnd various shade
tn-rs will inako in foi get thu dilt fioin thu
light soil, that is a cloud in summer by day
as well ns by night.
Alsuit a milu out fioin tho town is thu
g.irrlou nud tho extensive grounds of tho
mili'nrv trscrwtioii. Hero nru bnrincks nud
ipiarteii for infantry nnd cavalry, and ns this
i a popular stution witli nlllccrs, nud n gcn
eml rendezvous for thu military business of
the upper country, of coursu thugmiison ndds
.. . ii.!,.. ... H--II- H--H- ....i.t l:e- -ri... I-:-.
Iioililiueo vvilllll ,, tiiiiinen.-.,i inc. oiuilis.
Cavalry baud happens to bo 0110 ofj tho Illicit
connected with the army, and it is as fash
ionable ns it is delightful to drive out of nn
celling, see tho dress parade, thu sunset gun
mul the furled (lag. nnd afterwards listen to
ns choice music from tho baud ns heart can
doitc. Tliu hader is n professor who is al
most music mad they say, and the baud gives
many of tho choicest classical selection! with
cxipiisitu utlcct, so that I shall always iciiicm-
icr witn iiciignt tiiu summer iwingnis nt
Wnlla Wnll.i that saw night comedown mul
day forgotten, vv Into strains of numa set veil
to make one banish the sordid things of earth
and ileram of i:iysium.
TIIK WIIK.VT IIKIIIIIS.
Thu llluc mountains extend for about '.'(X)
miler in niuthc.ist nud southwist iliiection,
on n parallel with tho Columbia mul Snake
rivets, distaliMO to, () miles, nud while thu
I ig nlong the river ii ill general lit only fur
::n' g, nud much of it not even valuable for
tiu.t, theio it a great deal of Inml along the
lu-e nt tho range, and espicially in the foot
hills, that is wriiidei fully productive ns a
vvhcnt-prodiiciug region. Thus we tlml nil
tho ple.nant little towns situated aliout twen
ty miles in direct line fnnn thu river, midway
between liver nud mountain range, located
on the dill'cient stieaniH within reach uf the
wheat-grow ing districts, inch town being 11
natural center of trade, and each having its
natural outlet nt somu lauding place 011 thu
Columbia or Sn.iko river. I'hu wheat-growing
leiinn unv Itu said to c-oiiiuteticu in tliu i-entei'
of Uuutilf.i county, On gon, nud whilu west
of tho Umatilla river thu principal lesuuico of
tliu jicnplo Is stoeK-siowIng, instwmil tlio
countiy is moru uuivctsallv Icitilc, lulls mul
valleys nliuu nro uurivnlcil 111 wheat prisliic--tiou,
unc cxeint in noitious vvhero tho hid-
titles nru too steep, tho p'ovv mid haivester
nru eoiiverting thu faeu of the country into
one vnst harvest of whint, o.its, barley
mul coin. I estinisted that nearly ouu foiirtli
of thu laud in cultivation was siiiumer-fnl-
low-id -probably plowed too lato for tho
present season nnd turned ovui for early
lull seeding.
North ol Snake river, again, is 11 icL'ion
skirting thu base of thu Co-ur d'Alcno moiiii-
tains, wiiicli may lm c-ousijeivil as an extiu-
tiou of tho llliie mountain, not thcistci ly , the
range Having ik'cii in ages p.ist Disrupt 11 liy
the liuces that resulted ill the cii-.itiou of
Sunku liver. Her, ii nu extensive wheat
nrodiK-iugcoiiiitrv. Like the otlur. n lolliuz
enith surface, somel lines in level leaches, but
mole often 11 hilly legion; but thu soil is
blacker and nctunllv richer than thu fcitilo
stretch to thu soiithwanl. It is claimed that
lhso eastern wheat-growers can produce
wheat at .7) cents a bushel with us much
profit us tliu western Oieguu fanner hns when
ho geti SI, becausu the production is double.
'PI l.I... -IV .. 1-. 1.7..1...1 .... ..
I lll lltlilll ,U IM Ii, MIISIIVIS HI
common tiling, mul say they can prove many
lilstaiieeswiieieovir on inisiieis lias
li.eu re
alied as thy average for n whole farm, nnd
till; of T bushels per tictu as proved in
exceptional inses. Tlio piesent crop in most
of Eastern Oregon nud Washington has been
gieatly injiiicd by 11 week of terribly hot
weather in .Inly, that prcmatuiely cooked all
grain, much ol w Inch vv an hardly out of tlio
milk. Tho straw is not over l.t to '.U iiiclus
high, mid many tie-Ids of bm loy and oat me
lower )ct, but while wmio fields are not cut
nt nil, nnd whilu much grain is shriveled, still
the claim nil average of 'JO bushels pet ncie
in thu injured dlstilct', nud thu shnvelid
whint is kiiiI to wugh hiavy and grind well,
Thu Ust farms nru in thu foothills, nud there
the vichl is good nud tho grain plump. Hiding
over the lulls ami looking tovuuds tho moun
tains, we seu tho foothills gleaming with har
vests or shallowest with siiiuiiicr-t.illow, mid
vv hole nu outlaying spur pieseuts a liohl face,
tie farmer hasclluibtd thero nud pushed his
wuil. close to thu dizy siiinuiiti.
IMMIi.UVTIOS.
A constant stream of travel nud emijji.ints
ionics hero and senttci to thu dillucnt re
gions of development. The choicest lauds in
th) llluo mountain country aie claimed, so the
travel tends across Snako liver to tho lUlousu
legion, nud nl-ovo thero to tho Spokane coun
tiy. They 001110 across thu plains us thev did
111 thu Iwgiiiniiigt they tsnno fioin Utah, Ne
vada uud Cilifurnii, and not a small propor
tion of these who are settling the new districts
come from tho Willamct 0 valley, ptuferring
to make ,1 new stai t m a new country 111 picfer
encoto remaining 111 tho oldei settled valley,
lattliug with fertuue at a disadvantage. Tho
stream of emigrants u coiisUut, and they
seem to tit in among tho hills and hollows ami
go to work for themselves. They tako a
homestead and a pic-emptimi and .1 timUi
culture claim, and soon havo more acres thau
they know what to do with.. Besides this
region I havo described, thciu uro spot further
eastward that invito settle nient, and without
iiiisbiug thus far up the Columbia the emigrant
can liud laud tu pie-empt in tlio counties of
Uiogouaiul vv asiiiugtou nearer tlio vaseaiio
range. On tho north of tho Columbia river
are the Klickitat and Yakima regions, that
are rapidly settling up with practical farmers,
and cattle men havo great bents of stock there.
l'ovv sheep aro kept north of Columbia and
Snake rivers 011 account of tho cold weather.
The eastern thvks turn out tl.OOO.COO pounds
of wool, iiiuu-tcnth of which it grown south
of tho Columbia and most of it in eastern
Oregon, east of tho Umatilla river. No doubt
thero it a great deal of good fanning Liud 0:1
the upper waters oj J Jin Day ami 'Deschutes
rivers, 111 Oregon, and in Klickitat ami Ya
kima counties, Washington, but it does not
1 lie 111 at large tracks, and at availably at iu
the l'alou-o and Walla Walla region,
I'lllVCNT AMI H'TtlllK,
Thu wide interior legion is being rapidly
plospccti'd nnd developed. 'Ihelo is abutnt.
nut room, nud thu emigi ant Hilda it difficult
to choose hli location. The lesoiucc! of the
country me but dimly iind-itond, Agricultural
land is scattered, nnd lich vallejs exist in
isolated localities. What is called tho "fin.
tern Countiy" extends from tliu llritish line
to tha California boiiudmy, and leaches from
tho Cascade langu to the Itocky lnouiitnint,
occupying 1111 extent of countiy live hundred
miles npiaie. Two liuiulred nud lifty tlioo-
Lmiu! soiimo miles of teiritoiy lies hero, with
n population averaging aliout ono person to
over onu Ihinisand nstc-s. Theiu is plenty of
room for millions; there mu rich mining lields
to duvclop nud multitudes of 1 csourccH to un
fold, nnd though not yet noted tor ngiicultural
products, it is certain that tho futtiiu will
show that lu tho picscnt its capacities for
production aio hut dimly umlcrstoail.
Henry Yillanl, a man of broad cntoiptisc,
cuine heio n year ago nud inndo .1 bid for
controlling tho transput tittiou uf nil this grent
legion that could bo held tributary to thu
Columbia river, lie was backed by canitol.
nnd succeeded in ucijtllting for hil company
thu river stcmuent mid portage loads ot thu
Oicgoti nnd Steam Navigation Company nmt
tliu railway iroiu ivniiui.i to vvnlla vvnlla,
which has now n branch into Oregon, mid
will soon liu pusiieil liy complicated lines,
thiougli thu legions I have described, nml tliu
track will thoitly be laid along tho Columbia
river from thu Dalles to Wn'lula. Another
season will seo railroads continuous from
l'oi tluud to Walla Walla and all points above
there, and leaching to tlio I'alouso country,
mid Villaid's scheme includes a lino .South
that shall seek through coiineclion with somo
available route to tho Rutcin States, It is a
grand scheme, and has been pushed with won
derful energ) nud skill. Tho Northern l'acilio
is also pushing its work vigorously, ami socn
tho "upper country" can l-u reached in n few
hours ami its products will bo ipiito close to n
mm Lot.
Why They do not Stay on tho Farr.i.
Thero is 110 denying it ; tho IhisiIo not
stay upon thu faim, mid will nut unless somo
iinustraiut is put tlisin them. Why is it?
Thciu mc many causes nicratiug to this end ;
thu new land in thu West, thu adventure uf
mining lifo in thu moiiiiti diis, thu new fields
open 111 tho cotton belt, speculation nud bus
iness in tho neighboring village or city but
uf nil these is tho social leanness ami
starvation of American agricultural life. Wo
mu sieai;ing now of tlio isolated funning dis
tricts, from tlvu to ten miles from tho market
town. Hero is tho old stylet school house, mul
thu menus of education mu just thu same at
they wcio lifty jcars ngo or nioro ; the Win
ter school of four mouths, taught by tho
master, mid Summer school of three, taught
by tho mistics.i, lsith Idled nt thu cheapest
rates, mul some nru still " boarding 'round.'
Tlio old church m yet tha 0 for Sunday gath
erings, mul church and school nionltout tho
only occasions of rncial lifo known to the old
mul young, except in nuu visits to other coin
muiiitlcs, Thu main thing is woik, e.nly and
late, Summer mid Winter, mid tliu chief prob
lem for thu brain to solve is how to get a liv
ing. Tho w hole population is not so much
engaged in living, ami in enjoying life, at in
getting ready to live. If wu look in-door
thciu is ratlier a lean lardir tho year round.
Salt junk, pone mid potatoes mu tho itiaiu
stay. 1 no i.ouy is not well provnlcil for. Ji
search for a soft bed is not well icwnfile
Thu intellectual life is inoie poorly fed. Often
no paper ill nu is iiiKcn, 11 ouu Is nllorucu,
it is likely to bo a tioliticnl journal. Agricul
tural papers mo tlioraio exception, There'
little but goseiii for tho iiiiml to feed upon.
Tho school is 01 tin neglected for tho loyt and
gills uio wanted nt homo. Thu chinch is neg
lected fur it is not convenient to go to meet
ing. Tho huno sheds nru not built, the horse
is lame, tliu caniagu hns n broken spring, or ,
moru likulv, tl.u preacher gives out too much
light for thosiii rounding ilnrkucts. lkits lovo
twilight. Tho muscles aio over taxed and
v it.dity is mainly occupied in sustaining the
w,asto of muscle. Theio ii no timu for re
lulling tlio daily news, for discussing agricul
tural topics even, or for tliu enjoyment of
social lifo at tlio table. Father nml mother
live under pietsuru nil tho while. Hearty,
syuiiMthctiu iutiiest 111 anything outside of
tlio farm is almost unknown, smiles mu few
but jokes nto fewer. Young America on tho
faim levolts ngniust this etein.il round of
solemn fact. Hu wants ft littlu variety in
Ins diet for his body nud for his mind. Ho
hai seen ngriciiltur.ll papcis with pictuics of
tine horses nud cattle, homes ami barns, la-W-saviug
machine nnd tools. Ho would
like to read aliout these thing nml realize tho
picture, llo want more papers and booki,
Ivccutus, lie tin es and especially moro societj .- ,
Flo wants to enjoy lifo a little, whilo ho it
voung, nud not unit for gray hairs lieforo ho
begins to Inc. Hero is tho causo of our wan
ing agiiciiltine mid deserted fauns. The
lenicdy is moie easily seen than applied. We
must Ii.no moie living while wo uro getting
ready to live.
List uijdit about 8 o'clock Mr. Homer Low.
a teamster iu thu employ of tlio 0. T. Com
pany, had a very uairovv escapo from drown
ing. Iu attempting to go oil' tho steamboat
Oriout at (Sieenwich dock while on horseback
before the gang plank hml been properly se
cured, both ho and tho animal wero precipi-
latcn una 1110 river, mm it was witn tno ut
most ililliculty nud tho greatest elfort on the
patt of some of thu deck hands, that the man,
was finally rescued. Tho horso shared a
worse fate, mul wis drowned. On being
pulled out of the water, Low was in an iiucou
scions state, and for n time it was thought
tint the chilling waters had so benumbed him
as to produce lutal results. A vigorous rub'
mug mm me numiiiistratioti ot prompt meat
ures to restore . him to consciousness, for hat
an hour had tho desired eflcct and he wot
sav el, Tho men w ho to fortunately vv eru on
hand at the timu of tho accident aro deserving
of tlio greatest praise for the successful elTbrtt
mailo hy llieni to rttcue the imperiled man.
Thu claim of lieu, llolladay, formerlyo f
this city, ha been to long before Congress,
that most of our readers are more or lets fa
miliar with it. Mr. HolUiby had lines of
stage cariyiug tho United States mail on tho
route to California during tho civil war, ami
tutlrrecl pecimiaiy lost by having hit trips de
lav eel, hi horses run oil, killed by the In
dians, etc, Tho bill before Congress state
hi damages at o'.'0,7o'J. Several amend
ments to reduce the amount were 0 (fried in
tho Senate', all of which vu-rexoted duvvn, ex
cept that orTeroel by Seuator Cockrell, who,
placed tho ninouut duo Mr, llolladay at 8100.
000. Tlii amend nient via adopted, ami tho
bill patted.
French newspaper men are beinn fined for
eteiamiug tne army ana eulogizing tliu regi -nler
MUll UCUII4I lUSUISTS IS SCUbCIICCli fl
yean imprisonment in the tame connection,
11
. 1
M
m