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About Willamette farmer. (Salem, Or.) 1869-1887 | View Entire Issue (Aug. 6, 1875)
Notes of a Trip to Mt. Jefferson, OVKIl THE 3IINTO l'ASS. Saturday, July 10, 1S75. At V a. m. wo loft Honuea&'s, crossed our camp equipments In a skiff, and forded the river with the pack animals a short distance below, wliero tho water was about two and a half feet deop. After packing, we started along the northern bank, In an easterly direction and up the main north folk of the Santiam river, all in good spirits, alid ou a plain trail through very heavy timber. At 12 we Mopped at a place called tho Narrows, or Stony Point, where we lunched, all being very tired, ns none, except Capt. Cooper, were accustomed to such traveling, and the weather belug very warm, which was considerably aug mented on account of one of our park ani mals requiring to be re-packed, and to be Initiated Into the scientific mystery how to carry loads over narrow and crooked trails. In the af ernoou, Prof. Powell caught some very fine trout, which were relished with great satisfaction after our unusual exercise. Our ponies, becomtne disgusted with the trip, started back, but were overhauled by Messrs. Sherman and Kedington after they had nearly reached the crossing of the river. Toward evening the mosquitoes and gnats put In an apnearance and demanded toll for Invading their precincts ; they were very numerous and annoying. The estimated cost of constructing a bridge Across the river at uenrwss's is 3.500, and the road to this camp, being three miles, 300. .Sunday, July 11. Left camp at 0 o'clock, our course being still up the river, and In an easterly direction, which we held for the day. Timber very heavy, aud in a short time we enter a large " burn," and the trail terribly obstructed by fallen timber. The signs of one or more persons having passed oyer the trail only a few days before were verified by our finding their camp and a cast-off horse shoe. The next place of note on onr trail is that called " Bad Banks," where the trail had been cut along the precipitous banks of a small stream and the river at the junction of the two streams. The trail had been cut forty fet high along this place. At the sum mit of these banks we found that a tremen dous fire had burned over the country last fall, and the trail was entirely destroyed, necessitating our cutting away logs and brush and digging around roots of trees, causing as much labor for at least two miles as if there had never been a trail or survey through that place. The mountains at times receded for a dis tance of a quarter of a mile, making small Hats, with soil generally good, with patches of basalt rock protruding to the surface. Ou the opposite side of the river fires had made extensive clearings, well adapted to grazing. At 12 o'clock we reached the river at "Rocky Point," all very tired, and concluded to camp. Distance, five miles ; estimated cost of constructing a road, $3,000. Monday, July 12. We left camp this morn ing at 5 o'clock, continuing lu an easterly dlrectlou, and about throe miles, except the first one-fourth of a mile, through wooded bottom, of which the most bad been burned over, intersected by small streams, aud the trail obstructed by fallen trees, causing con siderable work in making our way around them. The next place of interest is known as " Marlon Lynn," (lynn being Scotch for falls), where the river is confined to the nar row width of firteeu feet, where the water rushes through a narrow canyon for one hundred and fifty yards. The best descrip tion that I can give, is, that there is a ledge of basalt rock, in tilaces fifty feet high, standing iu the ceuter of the river bed, aud when the river Is full of water, forms a pic turesque island, around which the foaming water dashes with great violence, and drift wood Is crushed by the force of the resisting rock, A large log is lying across this chasm, over which a person could pass, but a mis step would be certain death, as the seething, dashing, rushing, aud boiling water would be beyoud the pewer of any human belug to bullet successfully. At a distance of half a. mile above we commenced to ascend the side of the mouutaiu, coming to " Weeping Rock," over which a small stream makes a rash leap of eighty feet, the whter being reduced to spray ere It reaches the bot tom. This Is a very pretty cascade, but can not be seen very well from the trail. Iu a short time we again returned to the river, tho water at each bank Is almost milk white; while lhe center of the stream is a dark blue, aud runs with a slow aud deep current. Up tho river about 400 yards, we came to "Uaug- ing Kock," through which the wagon road would have to be blasted, but can be very easily done. At this point we commenced to climb the side of the mountain In earnest, which is terrifically steep, and at one point almost impossible for our animals to climb. This ascent is lor a quarter of a mile, and we were over 500 feet above the riyer and road survey, all caused by the negligence of hav ing the trail cut along the survey, thus ob viating great toil and wear of patience. On our descent, which was steep, we came to Coon Creek, a beautiful and very rapid streem ten or twelve feet wide, but not over twelve Inches deep, that mingles its waters with those of the river a short distance be low, A steep ascent was again encountered, and in a short time we were 300 or 400 feet above the river. Two of onr animals fell while crossing over some slippery rock. We now passed through some ef the finest timber that Oregon can boast of, consisting of cedar, larch, hemlock, and yellow fir. On descending the bill, we cam upon quite a little bottom or fiat, called " Rocky liar," but destitute of grass for our animal i, and and went into camp at V,i o'clock. After we bad unpacked, Mr. Irv. Smith made the Important discovery (to him) that be had left his powder-llask about four miles be hind, and as he had brought a $125 shot-gun all the way from Indiana for the express piirposo of doing havoc among tho deer, elk, and bear of Oregon, he was compelled to hnvo that powder, consequently we sympa thized while bo took tho back track over tho mountains. At 0 o'clock ho came Into camp with tho ooveled article. Above camp a short distance the river goes through a narrow canyon, but having no very perceptible de scent, and tho water runs -slowly, but the depth Is very great. Distance traveled to day six miles, and estimated cost of con structing a road (M,000. Tuesday, July 13 Last night we were , nearly eaten up by gnats, in fact they were so numerous and so persistent in their attacks that some of the company lost their patience and indulged in profanity. At 4 o'clock we were up, and In an hour more on our jour ney. Our course was still to the east, and in a few hundred yards wo commenced to climb tho highest mountain that we had yet found, at one particular place so steep that our pack horses were unable to climb the trail. We were compelled to unpack them, and carried their loads up the hill on our backs, which was not calculated to Improve our religious proollvitles. The trail-cutters had been too Indolent to nt two or t hree logs along the river bank, which would have obviated all or this toilsome work, and left an almost level trail. Coming down this hill, we pass ed over a small creek with a very had cross ing, and from here we again took to the mountain, but the course was tho same, and returned to the river In about balfamlleat an old log cabin built several years ago by R. C. Qeer for the purpose of working what was supposed to be quartz mines. He had sunk a shaft about 18 feet deep, and ths rock that bad been thrown out contained sulphu rets and crystallized quartz, but I did not ee any that gave indications of gold and but very little of silver. At this place we found an old blacksmith's bellows, anvil, and a well-worn sledge, and the forge and bellows covered up by a growth of brush, The cabin bad been almost entirely destroy ed by a tree that had fallen across it. This is another mournful relic of wrecked dreams of golden treasure that have allured so many to the mountains fortunes only to be dispelled like the morning fog and to cause t'ae adventurers to realize that Dame For tune does not smile upon all who woo her. We climbed along another mountain, but soon came down into a level plateau of laud, and then made a very steep descent to the river, in this short distance there are two places where the water from high cliff has thrown down a great quantity of stone and debris. Upon leaving the river we went up a steep ascent, up on the bench again, and found that we had arrived at the lower end of Big Bottom. The mountains suddenly receded for some distance, and the bank Is quite level, aud covered with the best of tim ber. In a mile or so the mountains again come close to the river, but tho traveling Is good, comparatively clear of underbrush, while across the river whero McKinney Creek comes in, it has the appearance ot be ing comparatively level, with a low pass up the creek. There was an astonishing amount of elk sign ; from tho looks I should judge' that large herds of that uoble animal had been in there within a month, and probably in less time; deer tracks were numerous. At 11 o'clock we fouud some grass (our an imals did not have any at tho last camp); we called a halt aud cooked dinner, and at four o'clock packed up aud traveled about a mile to Stuyton valley, whero wo made camp, aud discovered that strawberles were lu t-eason. Tnis is the most beautiful valley wo found on tho trip, and in fact it would ho a beautiful spot In any part of the Willamette qalley, as the young timber Is sufficiently open and free from undergrowth to allow a wagon to be driven almost any place. After we had established eamp, five of tho compa ny went up to Brightenbusher's fork of the Santiam for the purpose of examining the crossing. This fork turnlsues at least one half of the water of the stream up which no had been traversing, aud ritea iu the mount ains north of us, aud em far as we could Judge runs in a due south directiou. The batiks of this stream are low ami composed of washed gravel, aud will cost considerably more to bridge it than the main river at Uenness's. From the best information I could gather and the appearance of the coun try, this valley must be ten or twelve miles long aud from two to four miles wide, Sunday, July, 14. We suffered more from gnats last night than at auy time; It was gUUMl Bb BUUUUWU, gUtUH tU IUD Wt I1UUTS U! morning, and guats at suurise, aud when ever we left camp they were still iu poses9 lou, tho air was lull of them, and all exceed ingly pugnacious and insinuating. They would go through blankets with astonishing ease, fastened themselves ou every portion of the body exposed, penetrate the halrof the head, to collect their tax of blood. At ! o'clock we started and crossed Urlgbteu hushs' without auy accident and travelled until 0 o'clock when we struck the river at depot camp, and at 2 o'clock started again. At 4 o'clock we camped at Muskrat Camp. At 5 o'clock we again took the trail, which we followed for some distance, when we attain lost it, one of the party finding it, announced the same by hallooing, which brought all together again when Prof. Pow ell came tearing tnrough the brush making as muoh noise as a grizzly, which so fright ened Mr. Delaney's dog that that animal made excelleut lime to his master tor pro tection amid the uproarious laughter of the entire company. At 7:45 we camped for the night on the banks of the river and at the confluence of Tumbling Creak. This camp is known as Pick and Shovel Camp. Thursday, July 15. Our course was still up the stream and In an easterly dlreotton aud through a denso forest for about three miles, when we had to climb n tremendous hill, ovor which tho pack trail had been constructed, while the road survey ran along.luvel ground. Finally we' arrived at the summit and after resting we examined a small lake, lying In a flat of considerable extent aud surrounded ou three sides with the precipitous walls of the surrounding mountains which are covered with'tlmber of small growth. The lake orobably contains an area of thirty acres. We named this Lone lake, which is certainly a most appro priate name as it Is so remarkably lonely and the solitude so intense that the place was op pressively quiet. Iu about a quarter of a mile's travel we suddenly came where the trail begins to descend the mountains towards the river, and at the asm a time we beheld Mt. Jefferson standing, apparently, within a very few miles before ns, in all the grandeur and majesty of God's sentinel over the surrounding mountains. Tho sight fills us with awe and enthusiasm. High above all the surrounding peaks and mountains stood this suow clad, rock-ribbed safety valve of the world's Internal beat; clouds were coursing around ita waist which the sun burnished as a sheen of silver; the clear frozen snow threw In relief the black volcan ic rock, while the apex of the Mount bid bold deduces to all human attempts to Fcale itspreclpitoussldes. The Intervening country presents a rugged appearance, covered with dense forest, dark green in color, variegated in places with white, where previous fires had raged, or some beetling crag reared its precipitous sides above the surrounding oppressively silent forest, giving great height to the impenetrable appearance of the scenery before us, no sound is beard except the scarcely preceptlble rushing of the river waters far below our feet. The de scent Is very precipitous, and In one or two places positively dangerous for our pack animals, and we were compelled to do some chopping to clear the trail. From here we again took to the mountains, and as the weather was rather warm, the physical fa tigue made the ascent irksome in the ex treme. After climbing the hills we continu ed along a rldge,'tben descended a steep hill to where Jefferson fork of the Santiam joins Lake fork. The Jefferson is about the color of water with one half the quantity of milk added; runs with a rapid current, forty feet wide and two and a half deep, rough bottom and furnishes half of the stream where It joins. The lake fork Is as clear as water can be, aud the temperature several degrees higher. At this place we lunched and made the discovery that Mr. Sherman's haversack containing a fine revolver and several other articles had been lost from off our animals, and after discussing the subject awhile, con cluded that it would be better to look on our return from this point to our last camp for the missing article, than toreturn. Here we again took up a hill, but upon surmounting it we entered upon a gradually ascending grade and through a beautiful park of young pines, but tiresome to walkthrough on ac count of our feet slipping on the leaves. At the top of the mountain we suddenly came to a lake considerably larger than Love lake and in the same, but rather to one side, there Is an island, while looking at It In a momen tary halt, a large elk stepped out in full view, distance about one hundred yards, where upon Prof. Powell and Mr. .Sherman drew up their Remington's and fired simultane ously, when it ran a short distance and fell dead. As it was not In very good flesh, and having as much ns our animals could well carry, we were compelled to leave consider able of our prize to bo consumod by the bears. This little chango of the monotony of travel considerably raised our spirits and rested us, so we again took tho trail with lighter steps and hearts, descending to the banks of this roaring forks of Jefferson, which Is u very rapid aud noisy stream dif ficult to cross, as it Is quite deep. At this crossing Prof. Powell's mare in crossing caught her rope in the rocks of the river bottom, causing that gentleman to wade iu and uuiooseu it, but itjdid no further damage than to give that worthy gentleman a thor ough wetting and we sympathised with him by a heartv laugh, all of which he gratefully appreciated by heartily Joining In with us. From the banks of the Roaring fork we again ascended a steep pitch for some dis tance, when it acquired a more gradual up ward tendency, through a pleasant and open forest to travel through for a nillo and a half, when we suddenly came out Into an onen country and proceeded to traverse alnug the side of a hill ou which all the timber had been cleanly burned otl, but covered with sweet laurel, detestable shrub to travel through ;the only way that we could find the trail which gradually bore down the hill, was small backs on the brush or stakes drlveu in the ground. The scenery here is magnificent, the mountains on the south or opposite aide of tho river are very high, ho much so that there was considerable snow yet remaining upon them, while high and precipitous rocks stood out in bold reliof.aud In places stratified with different colors of stones, having the appearance of sandstone or volcanic ashes from one point of observa tion. Alter passing down to the river bot tom we got taugled in a "burn" as it Is call ed and the trail was simply informal through Its crookedness. At the river we found that our troubles were not yet over, as the trail last year bad been cut along the water edge, consequently we were compelled to make a new route for the pack animals, and our mules In passing along run the pack against the "ragged edge" of a projecting log, tore quite a bole Into our beau sack, thereby loosing about half of our rations iu that especially useful article of food ou a mountain trip, so If there are beans found growing along the river next year, the phenomenon ean be easily explained by In-1 quiring of our party. Finally we reached toe upper end of the pass and again railed a bait while we proceeded to dig a trail over a very precipitous rock, as the river's current set directly and strongly agaldst this point and during the high water of last winter the . drift had entirely destroyed the trail made I last year. The bank at this place is com posed of first layer of unknown depth of I lava, overlaid by twelve feet of volcanlo scoria, which Is covered by decayed deposits I du vegetation aunicieutiy auep ior sorest to grow for considerable size. Hera we unpack, to allow the animals sufficient freedom to cllmn over, then packed them np again for camp which we established a few hundred yards distance at the foot of lower edge of Independence valley. Jnday,July UUh. This morning wo loft camp hi !) o'clur-k and movod through the woods up the alley over a bad trail fora mlln ami it half to the prairie where we es tablished our inaiu camp, and built us a bru-ih tent to pro'ect us from tho hot suns. This valley Is homo four miles loug mid lu the widest place at least two miles wide, tho three upper forks, that Is Lake, Mlddln mid South torks of the Santitm river continent, near tho center of th vallny. The prairie Is two miles lougai'd tmoKini h half miles wide with a strip of ilniburruiiiiin along the riv er, that has escaped tho tirriblH llras that have swept over tnei'nuutry and made the, or rattier I might say two prairies. On each side of the rivprtlm' mountains linvHitttHltiml considerable heigLt, while lb" summit of the northern is destitute of timber for space of at least six thousand acres which Is cov ered with a magnificent growth of bunch grass. In the prairie where we campd there are still some dead tics maiming, while the sweet laurel prows hixurianllv In patches and tho rest is bunch grass, afford ing good grazing for our animal. The soil Is light In body, ted iu color and shows still the intense boat that it had been subjected to when the last fire had swept over ir, while the rock are more numerous than desirable for agricultural purposes. At the upper end of this prairie, stands in bold relief, Pilot Rock, a peak of rocks with perpendicu lar sides and of sufficient altitude to answer the purpose of a notable and easily recog nized land mark. From this rock It is one mile and a quarter to the mineral springs that have already attained considerable no toriety as a resort for deer and elk. In the afternoon five of us went up to examine them and if possible to get a shot at a deer, while walking along we shot and wounded a large buck but he escaped, and we went on to the springs where your correspondent killed his first deer. The water bas a pleasant taste, and Prof. Powell decided that It was white sulphur, and possesses gentle laxative virtue'-, and without a doubt would be beneficial lu many cases of diseases, and will be fre quently resorted to by invalids when a oad shall nave been constructed to them. Saturday, July l"th. This morning Prof. Powell went out and killed a fine deer wbloh we proceeded to " jerk," Jwhloh occupation kept some of us for some time in camp, while others were busy repairing the numer ous rents that had been made in their wear ing apparel, writing up notes and doing up the camp work generally. Sunday, July ISti We spent most of the day in camp. Towards evening Prof. Powell and Mr. D. W. Smith started ou a trip to Mount Jefferson, taking with them on their backs provisions and blankets, and succeeded in climbing the first mountain, where they built their fire in plain viow nt camp, thus giving them a good start on their rough trip, Mr. Sherman and myself went to the springs to watoh during the night tor deer, but were not successful, although we could hear them around us. The next day wo devoted to prospecting for placer mines but did not find any indications that would warrant the belief that there were diggings In this region of country. To-day Messrs. Powell and Smith returned from their trip to Mount Jefferson, lu much better plight than we expected. They did not make the ascent of the peak, as Prof. Powell was taken slok, consequently, after examining around the base of the mountain for a short time they discovered a lake, out of which they caught several fine trout, and then proceeded to return, making the dis tance some eight miles by 5 o'clock. Thev stated that the lake spoken of Is at least 2,000 feet below the ridge that leads to the summit of Mount Jeflerson. Wednesday, July 21. This morning at 0 o'clock we left camp at Independence valley and started for Marion Lake and thesummit. At the mineral springs (called Coopor's Springs) we called a halt and all indulged In a bo-irty draught of Its pleasant tasting wat ers. The springs are situated along side of the trail in an open spot of a heavy body of timber, that has been burned off. The water comes up at tuo base of a gentle rise through crevices of trap rook, and Is not very plenti ful, there are three places where the water Is collected, the largest hole or receptacle will probably hold a gallon, no sedlmntary de posits are made that I could discover, the water trickles down through shelving rock, covering a spare about forty feet equare and the deer work along the "seeps" instead of drinking direct from tho spring. All around the ground la trod down as it it worn a sheep yard, and long well-worn pa'hs lead to this place I mm every direction, showing that ihey have used it for many years. Around the spring thoro Is quite a growth of pine and fir brush which is very convenient lor hiding lor the hunter. lam Inclined to think that this spring could be greatly improved by digging into the rock, aud probably much more water could be obtained as it evidently runs underground to some distance below where it again appears. The situation and surroundings are very pretty as it lacesto the south, while a high rugged mountain lies a short distance back to the north of it, giving protection most probably from the cold north winds of whiter, but will be quite warm in thn summer, as the suu has a fair sweep from 8 a, m., to 5 i si. The river runs west aud is about a quarter of a mile from and south of the springs, and the roaring of thn water can be distinctly heard. From here we traveled for four miles through heavy timber, but over a good trail, then crossed several lateral streams of good cool water; wo then commenced ascending a long and gradual hill alter which we struck the river again, where the river makes a leap over an almost perpendicular rock, estimated to be fitly or sixty feet, while a short dis tance above it falls ten more, making in all about seventy feet. We still continued to as cend at considerable of a grade for some two or three miles, when we noticed at a short distanco to our left an opening which proved to be a Hiuall lake or water lilly pond. Just before we reached this place we shot at two deer but did not secure either of them. We now commenced to descend gradually to the creek that flows from Arley lake where we lunched, hut the water was bo warm that it was almost unpalatable, so we pushed on and iu a mile we commenced to ascend a steep rooky ridge which proved to lie a por tion of tho mountain that formed the basin, making lake Or ley, but a good wagon road can be constructed over It. At the top of the lidge or rather divide we came In sight of Lake Orley (named after the daughter of Hon. T. W. Davenport). This is a very pretty sheet of water circular In form cover ing an area of 100 acres, but not very deep. Along the opposite margin and to our lelt there Is gross and willows growing, while further iu the water, the water or pond lilies were In bloom with their wide spreading leaves on Its placid bosom. Two large loous were desporting themselves at which we all tried our rifles and revolvers, only causing them to do some first-class diving, The out lei or mis lane is crossed wuere we first strike it, and runs beneath the rocks and out of sight and there is a fall or several feet judging from the roaring noise that it makes In Its subterraneous passage to where It ap pears at the surface some twenty yards dls Continued In the Willamette Farmer. I mm rHlutmtl ? IISrJSTJ3FL-taL3Nrt03S3 COMPANY. Firo and Marino Insurance. DtKEOTOKS: Oregon Branch. FORTLAND-P. Waterman. C. II. Lewis, B Gold smith, D. Maclcny, Lloyd Brooke. SALKM-L. P. Orovcr. M.IIWY J. A. Crawford. lULLIM-D M. FRENCH. LKWI&ro.N-.I. Loowenbcrg. HAMILTON BOYD, Oeucral Agent, PORTLAND, OREGON. II. It H lit, Ai,'"tit. Salem. mylSmS WOOI. BAGS ....AND.... AT THE SALEM BAG FACTORY AND T. Cunningham & Co.'s AT SAN FBANCISCO PRICES. Satrra Mav 14. 1874. d&wtf i - - NORTH SALEM STORE. W. I. wade, M T THE BRICK STORE, IIA8 JUST RECKTV- ed a run assortment or Q-eneral Merchandise, Dry Goods? Groceries, Boots & Shoes, Hardware, Clothing, Calculated forth City and Country Trade. Bought as low, and will be sold at as SMALL A PROFIT, as those who SELL AT COST. gar-Goods delivered to uiv part nt the cltv free ot clianro. Nov8r ATTENTION Sheep Growers;; A SURE CUKE FOR Scab, Sorew Worm. Foot Rot, AND ALL Parasites that infest Sheep. TT 13 SAFER, BETTEIt, AND VASTLY CHEAP TIIAN ANY OTHER EFFECTUAL REMEDY FOR THE TKEATMENT'OF SHEEP. IT Improves the Health OF THE ANIMAL, AND THE QUALITY OP THE WOOL. t? One gallon In enough for one hundred to two hmiired Sheep, according totltelr aift', strength, and condition. It U put up lu FIVE-GALLON OANS-Prlce, $12 per can. Send for circular, to T. A. DAVIS &. Co., PORTLAND, OREOON, Wliolenalo Agnnt lor the Ntute. 6r to your nearest Retail Druggie t. myti To Farmers and Others. IMMIGRANTS ARK ARRIVING IN THE STATE by every steamer In search of employment, and the Hoard llnd difficulty In gutting vacancies for them We therefore- earnestly request Farmer nuil others who require Farm Hands or labor of any kind, to Im mediately communicate with us and we will gladly supply them with such labor free of churue ou our part. Please statu the wages offered, the class ol men you want, aud for how long employment will be Riven. The Assistant Secretary is in dally attendance at the Hoard Rooms, Ankcny's Uulldlng, Portland, from 10 to :l p. in t-ucli day, to whom all letters should be addressed. W. 8. LADD. 11. flOLUt-MlTH, , II. W. IJOHIIETT. O. LKINENWEIIER, WILLIAM REID, State Commissioners nf Immigration. NEW TIN STORE, I II WE REMOVED MY SHOP FROM SOUTH Salem to the wooden bu'ldlns Opposite the Express Off ce, Where I can supply rlty and country with TIN-WARE OF ALL KINDS, Manufactured hy experienced workmen. Prices very leaHouahle. and cash an object, J. O. KENDALL. Satem, July !), 1371. dJtwtf Grading & Packing House, PORTLAND, OKENON. 8. A. sFyMOUR. WILL AGAIN CARRY ON THE BUSINESS OF Wool OradlDR and Packing, aud calls the atten tion of Producers and Dealers to the advantage of having their Wool praperly graded, packed, and placed on the Eastern market as an Oregon product. AN EXPERIENCED (IHAUEIt, who thoroughly understands the Eastern market, will supetlnteud the woik, and It U guaranteed that the wool he grade willcommand at the East the highest market price, according to the grade mark. ajjHtf AAC" ay guaranteed iicr WrtBOUCSHEEPDi wislr UWvU manufacturedHv ifijyKCjylAllJNCKRODT CMCfe, v2S5WJAST.L0UIS,MayJ