Fashion
Calvin Klein’s Francisco Costa Stirring More Attention
By Samantha Critchell
AP Fashion Writer
NEW YORK (AP) — Francisco Costa
has waited - patiently - to make his big
splash.
He jumped in as creative director for
womenswear at Calvin Klein with both feet
when he was handpicked by Klein almost a
decade ago, but he’s been a behind-the-
scenes player, slowly, steadily building up
his portfolio and profile while staying true
to the house’s DNA of minimalist, modern
design.
He has scored some big awards, including
twice being named best women’s designer
by the Council of Fashion Designers of
America and winning a national design
award from the Smithsonian’s Cooper-
Hewitt Museum. He’s also had some
memorable red-carpet moments - Gwyneth
Paltrow and Jennifer Lawrence wore his
designs at last year’s Oscars and Emily
Blunt was dressed in Calvin Klein at the
This week, he will be
introduced to a much
larger audience as a
limited edition of
dresses under the
Francisco Costa for
Calvin Klein label lands
at Macy’s stores
Costa with Nicole Trunfio at the 2012
Tribeca Film Festival
Met Gala last week - just to name a few.
Still, he doesn’t make a lot of noise, and he
doesn’t generate the gossipy whisper cam-
paigns that the fashion crowd often eats up.
When Costa took over, there wasn’t the
industry intrigue that surrounded the recent
appointments of Raf Simmons at Christian
Dior or Hedi Slimane at Yves Saint Laurent,
although in the world of American fashion,
Calvin Klein is one of the best-known pio-
neering names. Beyond some mixed
reviews early on, there hasn’t been the suc-
cession struggle that has occurred at other
venerable U.S. houses such as Bill Blass or
Halston.
His runway is now appointment viewing
during the crowded schedule of New York
Fashion Week, attracting a front row of A-
listers such as Rooney Mara and Katie
Holmes in recent seasons, and the clothes
Page 10 The Portland Skanner May 23, 2012
almost always leave a lasting impression.
But a household name, he is not.
Costa has no complaints.
“The company has given me a lot of free-
dom from Day 1, and I have always been
able to express myself. It’s all gone super-
fast,” he says. “I don’t think about it as
almost 10 years, I feel like I’m just start-
ing.”
Among insiders, Costa has reached the
point where he no longer needs that comma
and clause after his name that explains he
took over for Klein when the designer sold
the business. This week, he will be intro-
duced to a much larger audience as a
limited edition of dresses under the Fran-
cisco Costa for Calvin Klein label lands at
Macy’s stores as the centerpiece of a big
retail campaign focusing on the sites, styles
and colors of Brazil.
Costa, 48, was born and raised in Brazil,
and it’s not all the wild party atmosphere of
Rio de Janeiro’s Carnival, he says. He grew
up in Guarani, in the state of Menais Gerais,
with a backdrop of lush rainforests.
“We all stereotype Brazil as a republic of
banana and pineapple prints,” Costa says,
“but I think of it as simple and sophisticat-
ed.”
That image certainly squares better with
the look he has fostered at Calvin Klein,
where he plays much more with construc-
tion and angles than frilly details or
anything too trendy. He leans toward sultry
styles.
There’s something very sexy about
women who are happy and proud to show
off their bodies and don’t need to employ
See FASHION on page 13
Actress Jennifer Lawrence in Klein’s
plain red jersey gown at the 2011
Oscars.
‘She really rocked that
jersey dress. But it’s not
really about the dress
at all, it’s about the
confidence, strength
and sensuality that
she wore with it.’
— Francisco Costa on Jennifer
Lawrence at the 2011 Oscars