Page 2E EUGENE REGISTER-GUARD, Sunday, Oct 21. 1962
sac
Travel Topics,
Vatican? 's De
By RAV MOSELEY
Of the United Preee International
VATICAN CITY A military
man with dreams of conquest
would have to conclude that the
Vatican is ripe for attack.
A modern army marching on
this 108.7-acre kingdom would
find defenders in medieval
armorplatc with halberds, anoth
er contingent in white uniforms
and tall bearskin helmets and
brandishing sabers, and still
others in smart blue uniforms
with epaulettes and lota of gold
braid, looking very much like
the toy soldiers familiar to
children everywhere.
If there arc alarmists who
take this as a sign that the Vati
can isn't properly defense-con- .
scious, the Vatican can point to
the fact that its internal de
fenses have been greatly
strengthened since the disaster
of 1527.
In that year the troops of
Charles V sacked Rome and
found only 200 Swiss Guards op
posing them at the Vatican.
Since that time, three more
guard units have been .created
and today there are something
like 1,000 men on duty with
swords ready.
If, however, the Vatican
guards seem short on prepared
ness and long on sartorial splen
dor, it's understandable.
The troops haven't been in
a real engagement in more than
400 years.
The Vatican Guards are not
really a military force, of
Odense Is Still The Land
Of Hans Christian Andersen
ODENSE, Denmark IUPD En
tering the land of Hans Chris
tian Andersen, the ' traveler
steps into the fairytale world he V
expects medieval streets with .
gingerbread homes, thatched-
roofed cottages, swan -dotted '
lakes and castles complete with
legends.
Odense, Denmark's third larg
est city, calls the famed story
teller its own, but all of Funcn
Island makes up the fairytale
land of which Odense is the
center.
. Castles and manor houses dot
the countryside, the hedgerows
along the roadsides are repeat
edly Interrupted by white tim
bered and stuccoed cottages
crowned with thick matted
straw roofs. Country inns spe
cialize in the fish dishes expect
ed of a north European island.
Although a major manufac
turing center with 125.000 resi
dents, Odense maintains its her
itage as one of Scandinavia's
oldest cities. It was in Odense
that St. Canute was slain by
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course. They never were a part
of the armies with which Popes
once made war and extended
their dominion over much of
Italy.
The guards are charged pri
marily with defending the per
son of the Pope and beyond
that each unit has various other
functions, not the least of which
is Just being decorative. They
make fine subjects for tourists'
cameras and present a magnifi
cent spectacle when they line
up to receive visiting heads of
states and other dignitaries.
There isn't a guard force any
where in the world like it. One
unit is composed entirely of
Italian princes, so a defeat for
the guards not only would be
a military calamity but also a
staggering blow to international
high society.
The best known,' the oldest'
and the most colorful of the
pontifical armed guards are the
Swiss Guards. Their blue, yel
low and red striped uniforms,
with armor breastplate and high
medieval helmets, are as famil
iar a part of Vatican City as the
dome of St. Peter's Basilica.
The uniforms were designed
by Michaelangelo and have been
relatively unchanged since his
time.
Swiss soldiers were in the
service of the Holy See as early
as the 14th century, and in 1480
Pope Sixtus IV signed the first
formal agreement for recruiting
them for the Papal armies.
But the idea of a stable, disci
Jutlanders In 1086. The old
Cathedral here still holds his
remains in its crypt.
Andersen's home, adjoined by
I museum, stands in a quaint
area of little, steep-roofed build
ings lining narrow cobbled
streets. The museum boasts an
impressive collection of his
handwritten manuscripts and
mementos of his life, down to
the little leather sack in which
he carried a farewell letter writ
ten him by the woman he want
, cd so to marry, Riborg Voigt.
Odense boasts an old country
inn right in the center of town.
Timbered and stuccoed, with
bright copper and antique
clocks decorating the brick
walls, Den Gamle Kro (The
Old Inn), dates back to 1683,
is one of the most unusual res
taurants to be found anywhere.
It is a place where the Danes
go and ask, "Could we have a
table in the yard?" the open
air inside patio of the old build
ing and read from menus
chalked onto slate.'
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fenders
plined corps of Swiss Papal
Guards it attributed to Pope
Julius II. On June 21, 1S05, be
sent two emissaries to Switzer
land to recruit 200 men.
There are 100 Swiss Guards '
now. They serve in the Papal
antechamber, escort the Pope
wherever he goes and guard the
entrances to the Vatican.
The highest ranked of the
Papal Guards are the Noble
Guards, perhaps the most aristo
cratic body of its kind in the
world. Members must come
from, families with at least 100'
years of nobility.
The largest of the guard units
is the Palatine Guard of Honor,
which was established by Pope
Pius IX in 1850. Originally it had
Jft&M rf ( I THREE:
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Colorful
500 members, recruited from
Italian families either living in
the Vatican City or Rome.
The pontifical g e n d a r m e s
date from July 14, 1816.
They are the policemen of
Vatican City and occasionally
they have an exciting assign
ment, such as the investigation
of the recent bombing inside St.
Peter's Basilica.
But mostly their job is rou
tine and rather quiet, as indi
cated by the history of the Vati
can jail. A check of the records
in 1955 showed there had been
only four prisoners who had
served a combined total of three
weeks in 26 years.
The jail was promptly con
, verted to a food warehouse.
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