Th? OREGON STATESMAN, Salem, Oregon,' Thursday Morning, September Z8,; 1939 PAGE 4 Gaining Favor Smooth Wool Allies With Dressy Touch ; Flare Held Universal - With fitted styles in the as cendancy for fall and -winter coat popularity, the full skirted i sil houette I makes a graceful ent- Iance in both : untrimmed and andsomely furred styles, dis tinguished by dress-like detail. , Chiefly, these details may be observed in darted bodices, soft drapes, strategically placed bows, (flusters of tucks, the achieve ment or a wasp waistline i and touch sleeve newness. ) The definitely dressy trend in coats is one of greater formality 'than ever before, while the sport coat has Its own realm., making both types essential to every wardrobe. i - l -- - Even i the casual, . ; untrimmed maker details in a dressy mood, although it also is seen in sport interpretations.: The fundamental body lines of fcoata this fall are different than In any previous season, because they reveal so much in artful earning. Eased out bodices are strikingly new,: attaining a long. parrow waistline. Fall Fullness. Every coat has something of a nare,-' whether - it's the all around,' uninterrupted ripple, or fullness concentrated in front, in back, or to the side . . . attained through gores.; or pleats In any one of many variations. The woman ' who's been won dering what to do about a coat to wear over her bustle dresses, is answered by the gores and urn brella pleats which give fullness to coat backs, which can ac comodate the actual puffy full ness of the bustled dress. One of the more youthful coat trends is the simulated, or re movable : bolero of fur, worked In any of the season's popular pelts. The affection for brown furs has Increased this season, because so much more luxury can be af forded by the average woman, in mink and sable dyed furs such as fitch, kolinsky, squirrel, muskrat and Bkunk. : Subtly shaded sheared beaver is another brown favorite whose tones lend them selves admirably to the new coat colors as well as black. Significantly elegant and dressy are this year's smoother woolens, which, go in more for wavy ripple weaves, pin point and novelty stripe effects, than for curled surfaces. i Casual Curves. These fabrics lend themselves admirably to the elaborate use of fur in lavish plastrons, tuxedo panels, bands and borders, yokes, and capes reminiscent of the ISSO's. A new comer, in bustle trend is the peplum which usually extends from the plastroi. detail of the bodice, in fur while yet another variation, is - seen in pockets of fur. " . Flatter- collars, which rest more comfortably on the shoul ders and keep out of the way of then, long bob; simplified sleeves and accompanying muffs with shoulder-straps are further chap ters in the dressy coct edition for fall. ' The fitted silhouette extends to sport coats, in the reefer, single and double breasted preference of the young figure new this sea son with trimmings of velveteen and gold buttons. The swagger back coat is still the great favorite, and in this year's silhouette a flare is re leased from square shoulders, falling in deep soft folds, out ward, to the hem of the garment. Color is more rampant in cas ual than dressy coats with wine, nautilus and teal blue, artichoke greea and ruddy brown well liked. When it comes to sport rotors, the rainbow's the limit! Class-Conscious Casuals yf i -yyf . - Q. '-?; VS9 ' Tiiiiiiimi iii " ' ..sv!W!f-P5- . 1 v umiiiiii "... .v vVNiS-i ' ' -.5 v Left: la rich Shetland, smooth as a Princeton senior. Kight: In anbby tweed with a British look. Beret and ScotcK Cap Both Popular Anything Plaid Is Winner; Casual Brim Hat Also to Be Noticeable Classic In headgear tor the daughter of the house are the beret, off the face this year and larger in scope; th Scotch cap with streamers, beloved this sea son because everything plaid Is popular; and the casual brim hat with a feather in its ribbon band. - 'Rainy days will find daughter wearing a rubberized cotton hat. made just like a Gloucester fish ennan'a, chin strap and all. Little girls will often wear simple, roll brim hats to .match their coats either in the coat fabric, or in a matching felt. Older sisters, however, will look forward to dress up occa sions when they can set on their pretty curls, the draped orf-the-face berets, postillion crowns and Dutch boy visor brims which are In keeping with their chubby fur Jackets, simple date dresses, and the new Holland silhouette in dresses, achieved with projecting pockets. Felts pretty nearly win the popularity contest for school-age hats, but there are still a num ber of crocheted caps and tur bans made of colorful chenlle. And the popularity of velveteen collars on reefer coats, brings velvet back in the hat picture. Most delighted return of all Is that Of the "beaver hat," Its furry ' texture a perfect accomp animent to tweed coats and suits, and a matchmate for trimmed garments. Furniture Given American Flavor Although the Windsor chair originated in England, it has a distinctly American flavoring due to the many developments which Yankee cabinetmakers have made from this design. Many Interesting old chests are seen in. the early houses in New England and certain characteris tics denote them as American products. Stools and benches of the ; simple Puritanical type are still found in tbe oldest homes, and there are several types of chairs, other than the Windsor, which originated here. Among these is the Brewster chair, : composed entirely of turned! spindles with wood or rush seats and tlun the Carver chair, an arm chair ' with the front posts topped with wood en balls. Home Should Fit Needs of Family Place for Everything the Folks May Want to Do Is Planning Coal Throughout the fall and winter months, the family life will be centered around "the living room, and there must be a spot or two for everything the family may want to do. If mother is a good planner, she'll arrange a center of Interest, the fireplace, or conversational group. If there is a fireplace, this may be flanked by a pair of sofas, love- seats, easy chairs, a pair of lounge chairs opposite a sofa, or other similar ensembles. The center of Interest may be a sec retary or an attractive window or group of windows. A pair of cotte and-or end tables with lamps will take care of . the lighting situation and add a note of completeness to the group. The family "bookworms" will be given their favorite spot, too, with a lamp that gives adequate light. These "nooks" can be dis tributed throughout the room, so that there Is no "sitting" out while mother sews in Tommy's favorite reading corner. of the household is carried on at a kneehole desk or a Gorernor Winthrop secretary, some means should be provided for writing thank-you letters, and planning the next day's menu. Back in the corner of her mind mother has. kept a special place for the colors that she knows should be added. A good decorator can giro mother some belpful hints about the colors that make small rooms seem larger and large rooms smaller, or. she can keep in mind that red, yellow and orange reflect hospitality, cheer and warmth; violet, green and blue -add. cool ness, quietness and dignity to the room; -hile black reflects so lemnity, white purity, and gray softness- and serenity. . . Colonial House Entrance Recipe Here is a room recipe for an en trance hall for a colonial bouse. If it is quite small, as colonial en trances often sTre, the lower part of the wall may . be paneled with vertical boards painted a gleam Ing white while the upper wails are coated a soft creamy ycilow. This serves as a good background for colored prints, landscapes, old maps and pictures ot historical figures. A pair of ladder back chairs and a Chirpendale card ta ble may be added. Above the ta ble may be hung a mirror framed Whether the writing program in mahogany. Turning' Window Shades Obviated Old-time housekeepers . know the trick of "turning" window shades that have grown grimy at the exposed end," but new time housekeepers have learned that a great many window shades can be given a soap and water treatment that makes the turning unnecessary. Of course mar of the new shades, come w'fh. a guaranteed washable finin- which can; be sponged off vith luke warm suds and dried with a clean cloth. For other tvpea of window shades, then Is another process which often works wonders particulrrlv if the dirt has not been allowed to become imbed ded Make a bowl of "dry suds." bv melting one cup of packaged fr shared soap in fire cups of water. When it has cooled and reached a firm Jelly-like consist ency take a small quantity and whisk It up as you .would egg white. Apply some of this lathery foam with a brush to a small area of the shade and brush with a circular motion. Remove the suds with clean spongei t wrung out tightly in lukewarm water. mrJ a If If 41 rUx IMvJ3 tS & ---- ..e r -JOfc mf Austelle Dresses M; '11 Influence of Two Fairs Noticeable Most of the recent changes made in modern styles can be attributed directly to the influ ence of the two world's fairs. In most Instances, the i modern suits are streamlined, even the hard ware being eliminated to keep a smooth, unbroken surface. Small section chests that may be used Individually or in a series, have gained popularity. : Bleached woods are becoming . less pre dominant, their place being filled by the-natural woods finished to enhance their real beauty. Pear, apple and. cherry- wood have proved that fruit trees not only contribute to the meal, but actu ally go into the making of the table Itself. During the coming fall' and winter months, the perennial ad mirers of 18th century furniture styles will again back their favorite. Modern styles may come and eo. but -to thousands 1 of homemakers, furniture ! bespeaks the graceful charm of the period nieces. Modernized versions of Sheraton. Heoplewhite and Adam designs are shown In both wal nut and mahogany. Light tin ishes in standard cabinet woods or the use of light woods sach as prima vera, etc. replace much nr tf neriallv ApKimeA "Swed ish . modern" pieces of ; the past season. Organdy and Lace Neckwear Winner Not In i a long time has fashion decreed a type of accessory which is so universally flattering as the white organdy and lace neckwear now In vogue. Since rough handling in laun derinr may tear the fabric, many women are finding that the safest way ot keeping these accesso ries fresh Is to shake Uem in a fruit-jar of -lukewarm audsy wa ter. If the excess . moisture a soaked up In a turklsh towel, the collars can. be Ironed immediately. "All fcrtv need " a supply " of sweaters one or two lightweight wool sliDovers to wear under their coats, and a couple of coat sweaters lor Py. Tnese wiu nrohLblv. be nreferred i la shades &X- I $h,.Jpi I Will l ' ' , -J I s 1 ' ' I 'l f I Where Good Fashion Costs You Less PRICEB THAT; WAT TOO! SUITS $19.75 Come in tomorrow and look over our new Fall line-up of Townclads. Here are styles and fabrics to suit every man's taste, tailored up to the exacting Town clad standard to assure you of LASTING perfect fit and smart appearance. Austelle Dresses ... bring you everything r woman could desire in a tine dress . . Authentic style, lovely fabrics and superb work manship. You'll find the new fashions first in Austelles! $g90 MIRRA-LINE DRESSES 4.98 Exclusive new one-of-a-kind frocks. jtiivn iiEiiiiv unrioariS Newest styles always at a modest price. jC is Style and Value Leaders! Neto Fall and Winter So this time you're going to buy a GOOD coat! . . . then here's real news! Genuine CameFs Hair , . ' TOPCOATS $ TTnKliovV1v lnwr Trip1 ? 24 Sounds Impossible, doesn't it? But seeing Is believing. Here is the coat that affords you the greatest amount of warmth for the least amount of weight. (Camels must withstand intense cold at night as the desert quickly loses Its heat after sundown.) Penney's puts the price of these superb coats within the reach of all. Buy on Lay away if you wish. .Also, Just Arrived! Townclad Overcoats i ' . - - f j - P iwm) U ll f V I m m wk m Jr. mzftit I 7 $ st ? i1 a?- yy ;, If f i I - 'f j it --- if II i-i -ltff , ;;: ' lit iv S . v" iii fIB rjr, I iff V1 A- ' 1 M Jf ?' i 1 m &n2f' I I fiJ I -rcf 111 Coats 1475 Casual or fitted self-trimmed coats! Beautifully furred dress coats! Quality fabrics, tin est linings and interlinings, newest style details! New arrivals every week. See them. Other Fall Coats, 7.90 to 24.75 Lovely New Shipment Chenille Hostess Robes Wrap around style. Ex tra full circular skirt.... Fine all wool fabrics in the new styles and colors! OTHER ALL WOOL OVERCOATS, 14.75 $Q75 Get Acquainted With TKese Better Quality Penney Brands Towncraft Shirts. Marathon Hats Towncraft Ties Sport clad Sweaters . WaTerly Caps. Armorfoot Socks Majestic Garters Towncraft Belts and : Suspenders each... .1.49 .3.98 .98e 3.9S 98e 5c -25c .98c Hyer Arch-Support OXFORD? $5.90 In two styles supple, fine grain calf shown above, or genuine kangaroo. Both with patented correct balance rubber heel that won't run over. It you're accustomed to wearing a $10 shoe, try these. You'll f not be the first man who switched to Hyer's for good. ? " Flattering New BLOUSES Ideal team-mates for your new suit or skirt. Rayon crepes, taf-. f etas, satins. L9C Betty Co-Ed MILLINERY New Profile lines, berets, high-hats. Everything that's new! 1.98 . Claudia Featherweight FOOTWEAR This style is in calf and the new elasticized gabardine. 3.90 THE ULTIMATE FULL-FASHIONED HOSIERY! GAYMODES Join the thousands of thrifty women who have discov ered Gaymodes sheer, clear beauty and their low econ omy prtees. A weight for every oe casion. . 59c.79c-98c Childrens 3-Piece GOAT SETS 3.98 100 pure wool melton cloth coat with matching leg gings and cap. Separate Coat 2.98 1 New Leatjier Handbags 19D Smart Kid Gloves.... 190 Celeste Fine Footwear. J&9P I " j. c. penxex co., rxa Participate in the " FallOpeningP Registet at Penney s Today Between 9 A. M. and 5:55 P. M. of tan and. brown, in spirited pat terns