PAGE EIGHT The OREGON STATESMAN. Salem. Oregon, Thursday Morning, September S, YBTt i -1 10M Comfort Gets Call in Shoes Change From Lightweight Is Gradual; Elastic ' Leather Provided T ..By ALICE JAMES American, manufacturers In ev ery line are becoming Increasing !y aware of the need for supplying the public with thing they want. Auto makers, radio, manufactur- era, refrigerator companies, and all the rest are "ie!ess In their - researches to anticipate and Inter pret consumer wants, desires, and reactions. ' :..V" .In the style field, be it simple hankies or complicated costumes, the trade must maintain an equal ly alert attitude to capture every possibility (or. pleasing and satis fying the people who buy their goods. . , One of the best examples of that , ability to serve a particular need In a manner to delight any style wise and comfort seeking Ameri can woman is the recent develop ment of a new shoe season a sort of pre-falr period presenting type or footwear that is definitely apart .- from that of mid-summer and mid-fall. ; ' This new season is not an arbi trary one , designed to increase sales at the expense of shoe buy ers, but rather is an answer to a crying demand on 'the part' of women for an in-between type of - shoe to play an important part in the apparel needs for the. period : from August 1 to September 15. 1 Last year this transitory fash : Ion season, had Us inaugural in a .very smsll way. A few manufac turers and a few stores sponsored 1 the in-between season styles. This year youVe going to see a great V many more "pre-fall" shoe styles; and in case yon feel that there's J little need for such a breakdown ' of the seasons le,t us tell you that ! you'll more than -welcome the de velopment. ' Tie Kind to Feet - v After several months of unbam j ipered comfort in (lightweights su f perflexlble. open-work shoes ; iff 1 ; nothing less than torture to step U right Into a pair of fall or winter i shoes. Firmer, more rigid models 1 work a definite-hardship on feet 4 I accustomed to sandal types. . a. With this In mind you'll find the new -"graduated" shoe styles quite to your liking. They'll allow your feet to step gradually int ' fall and winter without the un healthful and uncomfortable sud den cramping Into harder leathers w and box ed-ln toes. f: Some of the shoes suggested for this type of pre-fall wear are ideally designed for the purpose. . They're not nearly as open -tas strictly summer sandals, but they retain .some of the perforated and: open - toe features on a smaller f scale. One '. lovely model that we were particularly taken-to is a ' covered toe sandal without box ing, but with an opemeftank. It's Just out of the summer class enough so that one can wear it ' after Labor day . and yet is soft "1 and supple for summer spoiled . feet. " . You'll want at least one pair of these newly created in-between-ers to cover the gap in seasons. Of course you'll be able to. get a ' great deal of wear out of them throughout fall and into earlier ' " winter for sporty occasions, and on - warmer days. " - Leathers Are- Elastic " An amazing development in the manufacture of shoes is the newly. V devised tanning method for pro . ducing elasticity in leather. Both men's and women's shoes will ben- - eflt by this clever process this fall and winter, and the idea brings shoe designers an entire new range of possibilities on which to work. ' i First, you'd-probably like- to know , something . about how it's "r .'done. In the first place, the pro cess has been In the testing labor- SALLY'S FIRST WITH FALL'S Ear art nutumn CitDrnbon; Again fashion decrees, black. We fcring it to you in a collection of afternoon dresses w i t h, slim,' "straight ' - a ' Hit lines ana a weaim 01 ;.- flattering detail. v t - marvplnuftlv rhie fa.h .'i ric, silk jersey; ; They re sophisticated , fashions - that you'll -I adore.. ; r- . Others From -r 148 tq 14.9? A Small Deposit" Will reserve Tow Garment SALLVS 357 COURT ST. - ; Accessories Such as to Add Zest To Wardyobe Are Offered; Gloves, Millinery Fashions Will Attract Whimsies that add zest to a costume are just what every woman will be searching eagerly for this fall. For well she knows that carefully chosen j accessories are .the secret of many a really successful wardrobe. Its the say fillip that, a particularly charming handbag scarf, or accent of costume jewelry, .to say nothing of th perfect hat, brings to an outfit which helps achieve that so-mucnrOi sought-after Individuality. Ana this autumn's fashion horizon is bright: with new ideas tor clever note of costume harmony or conj traat. -- ' The perfectly groomed woman always gives an infinite amount of thought to her gloves. This winter she is going to some som partially to English suede, and she'll find it ever so chic to choose them with a matching hat. N need for any one to have cold finj gers on blizxardy days, with th grand array of really warm glovef atories for more than two and a half years! It has finally been passed as satisfactory and manu facturers shortly will have limit ed supplies' on. which to work. In making this leather the back of the skin Is scraped and roughf ened after the normal tanning process. Then It is treated with a patented chemical process which restores about 60 per cent of th4 elasticity to the leather. It is theri backed with a lastex covering which allows the exact amount of stretch . desired. The stretch can be controlled. Some 300 finished shoes already have been produced by 12 leading makers as samples, and we underf stand that a good many fall shoe will embody the feature. The ne material will be a godsend to hard-to-fit feet, eliminating the necessity of combination lasts, as shoes made' of this elastic leather naturally will conform to the out lines of the feet. In spite of the fact that this leather willl stretch and bend to allow utmost comfort and foot health, it can be perforated and trimmed In any manner desired, as the perforations do not lose their shape with the stretching. i For Fall and Winter j The trend is definitely towar4 a greater use of leather and a ref stricted showing of fabrics and materials. This trend also will be noticed In all sort si of garment trimmings, as well as in shoes. In fact, leather holds a high spot in new furniture, walls, and lamps! To carry the trend still farther! we bear from the continent that even metal straps on wrist watchl es-are bowing to the new leaning toward the increased use of lea ther. t j But it will be in the shoe styles that we will see the greatest evi dence of the leather idea. Suede will carry the keynote, allowing yon the possibilities of many smart matched outfits pf suede bags and belts to match your new fall suede shoes. The fashion theme, as far as shoeS go this coming season, will be unquestionably simpler, both as to deiifcS, trimming, and color treatment. Your leathers will be led by suede, with patent not teif ribly far. behind. Colors will be restrained, with black and brown getting the b!g hand as far as pop ularity goes. Blue, green and slat gray draw up in the rear, with re ystricted use of the multi-colors, f But fabrics are undoubtedly on the wane. There will, of course, be some1 showing of gabardine, but the leather influence is too strong to permit much of an enr trenchment of any other sty Likewise, complicated patterns and designs are taking a back seat. Some of the cutouts still will prevail, but on the whole they will be lees in evidence and the open toe fad is rapidly closing. Such open toe models as you may see will be much smaller, and in some of - the styles the open toe will be merely an effect,- the open space bing covered up with kid or some contrasting leather. f FAVORITE FASHIONS 4 jf rfl 1 1 111. I 'V' S& nil IMA : ;! I RV. I 1 ill 7 v . I I . ill l 'i I I 1 til , Look for the Large Neoa " Slgw. that are Just as smart as they are coxy. Persian Lamb and Lapin are favorite trimmings as well as lin ings. And many a cape or pigskin feather gl ore has an Interesting panel of fur or even an entire for pack. 1 Elegance in Handbags j Exotic new shades are going to bring smart individuality to many of the handbags this fall and win ter. Ton don't have to content yourself with the usual black or brown when you can find zest for your costume in mossy green, bay berry greeny a new blackberry or piacc tuiip snaae, siaie Diue, an tique mahogany, red cedar or such Scottish colors as Highland blue pr clangreen. There's such a lus cious new softness in the mater ials of this season's handbags, too. Soft crepey calfskins abound in the dressmaker type of bags; Soft hubby woolens, duvetyns and ve lours share honors with more fa miliar suedes and grain! leathers. Combinations of suede with satin or patent are something partic ularly smart to look for, too. j Elegance personified are the sew sharkskin handbags. Soft and supple with a rich cloquelike sur face, this skin is stunning in both black and colors. Bags with han dles pouch styles and more tail bred looking types are partic ularly in demand, and you'll see lovely ones which you'll find it pretty hard to resist In pigskin, calf, suede and reptiles. 1 Trends in Fall Hats j No matter what millinery styles any autumn season introduces, the pert little shapes are always high n favor the sort of hats that iron't Interfere with' the high fur Collar which your new coat will probably boast. But you can al icays rely upon the designers to contribute something new and fetching in the styling of these so important early hats. This year's have higher silhouettes, usually w4th a becoming width at the top, and there's often something de cidedly intricate about the clever manipulation of the crown. Rose pescat has contributed an ador able cone-shaped black velet hat Striped with narrow bandings of gold kid. From Agnes comes a Vivacious casual hat with a cox tomb ridge at the top and a tiny brim. -A novelty to be seen in many of the new casual hats is a trimming designed from Insets of colored gro8graln which look a bit like badges or insignia. A wing- ike felt beret called "Wing Spread" as a new Schiaparelll cre ation which was inspired by Ame lia Earhart's flight. Side-Roll Mode Inspired by the Directoire mode is the hew side-roll millinery, to be worn tipped coQuettishly to the tight with lots of curls showing. Sometimes you'll see a bit of os trich giving them a reminiscently 1900 look. Marvelously enough, these new Directoire styles are gay and youthful. Returns to Home LINCOLN Kenneth Edwards Came home from a Salem hospital Friday, after having been a pa tient there for several weeks. He was confined with injuries re ceived in a threshing accident. i Fashion's Fall Themes MILADY'S SHOP 415 Fall Fashions Are Revealed Duchess of Windsor, Some "Other Notable Women,. Influence Modes -A - ' By ANNA COLTON Another season rolls around, bringing with It oar first glimpses of what's new in the world of fa shion. The styles shown now are Indicatives of the clothes we'll be wearing all through the winter months, so we're wise to heed carefully all current trends. It Is both interesting and amus ing to observe the effect that prominent women have In Influ encing . fashion designing. Two such varied personalities as the el egant Duchess of Windsor and the opulent Mae West have had a marked effect on what you and I will wear this winter. Both-of these much publicized ladies are responsible for a number of the season's style features. The cool and lovely lines of the duchess' frocks have captured the imagin ation of all chic women as surely as the undulating contours of the fashions worn by the colorful Miss West. It seems a little contrary to speak of the chic of both straight and flowing lines, but such is the way of your clothes for fall. It's another one of those blessed sea sons when you can choose fashions that are most flattering to your particular type of figure and still be perfectly In style. Necklines and Waistlines The most notable change in the new dresses is the definitely low ered waistline. While the waist line will not sink to the exaggera ted effect of the early '20s, still there is a decided lowering evi denced. - This' is accomplished by wider belts, clever draping, and dipping at the back movements. Necklines continue high, often draped into casual folds that are very, ery flattering, sometimes flaring at the sides or front, and occasionally seen with pert little collars that stand erect. Very thin women jor those past youth's first bloom will welcome this style fea ture. ' Shoulders and sleeves are sim pler than they have been in the past season or two. Shoulders are still slightly widened, but the square, built-out effect Is defin itely a thing of the past. Sleeves may be shirred or tucked or giv en Interest by draping, but the detail is seen usually below the Shoulder line; i Black is still reigning favorite for all daytime wear. No other eolor combines smartness with practicality in quite the distinc tive way that black does, i Hemlines, particularly, in eve ning gowns, are uneven. ' Some times they dip at the back and rise at the front, or they may be draped in such a way that there is a definite swoop at one side or the other. - Styles that Sparkle ! Putting aside the simpler fash ions of summer we turn to a rich ness of detail in the fall and win ter showings. Silver embroidery scintillates on many of the new dresses. Rhinestones sparkle from shoulders and sleeves. Sequins gleam lavishly all over evening and dinner dresses. Evening fashions are lavish in fabric. Metal cloths, regalstiff velvets, upholstery weaves, and luxurious satins are parading ele gantly in the evening picture. Pas tels and light shades are proving smartest for formal wear. Most elegant among daytime fabrics is sleep, sophisticated silk Jersey. In gleaming black there is . . . are brilliant in this important show ing! You'll see Paris inspired silhouettes., designed after origi nal creations by many of the most famous couturieres. You'll love their sleek so-' phistication . .'.-'and the richness of the new fabrics which fashion this season's clothes. For here at Milady's Shop you will find examples of every important new style trend in . . Suits ! Coals ! Sj Dresses ! Costume Ensembles! State nothing richer Because draping is so much In evidence, jersey will hold its popularity, for It is a fab ric that lends itself beautifully to soft, draped effects. O. K.'d by Movie (Stars -Los Angeles which. Is fast be coming a world famous center for smart fashion designing, la intro ducing a, number of new style ac cents whkh will undoubtedly sur vive tho winter! with great success. Out In movieland they're showing fall costumes that are simply lav ish with rich far trimming. Dean t oxsklas- swirl profusely around necklines, at the dg of Jackets, even around hemlinei. Other fa vored furs for trimming chic dresses are mink, gaylak, Persian Iamb, mole.' and dyed fitch. . . The west 1 coast favors dinner and afternoon frocks of metal cloth or plain silk crepes with jackets of metal li brocade. Skirts are slim and very straight. For street costumes sometimes an In verted pleat is seen in the skirt. Sleeves are long Or three-quarter length. The sleeve in all the im portant showings never ends above the elbow, ii Sportswear f of fall Is often very gay. For instance, there is shown a red and black plaid flan nel shirt that Is worn tucked neatly into & ; high waisted gray skirt of light-weight woolen that is pleated from waist to hem all around. Pleated jj skirts, by the way, are muchj in vogue. f ii World tour Ended ELDRIEDGE) Mr. and Mrs. Roy S. Springer, world travelers re cently haye returned here to their farm nearEldriege school. Albert Girod has cared for the place dur Ing their three year absence. xc Every Qp i t- School Outfitting Is Problem Again Wearability Is Important Factor for Children Aren't Grownups Once again all ever the land school bells are ringing and chil dren from kindergarten through all the grades are bringing bright red apples to teacher. Back they go, some Joyfully, others regret fully, but bajbk they go anyway. Up comes the annual problem for mothers, of outfitting these yonng hopefuls in clothes that will stand the rigors of play ground activities and still retain at least a trace of their pristine freshness. And no small prob lem it is. Children are careless and it's unfair to expect them to emerge from hop-scotch or blind man's buff with their pants still pressed or their dresses untorn. It Just isn't their nature. Fortunately boys are not ex pected to look particularly im maculate. It's always a surprise when they do. Not until they reach Ihe age when girls signify more to them than a vague - -noyance do they start washing behind their ears without being told. But girls are another mat ter. For some, as yet undiscov ered reason, it shocks us slightly to see very young ladles with their sashes untied and their hem dangling down. For little girls are "sugar and spice and everything nice" and should look like it. enin lusi lve The Line Exclusive io Our Store j i - , . v m m. & s . -mm .- t About all that bewildered mothers can do is to buy well made clothes in the first place ' and aend their young off In the morning slick and clean Inside and put What happens to them, and Incidentally to their clothes, between then and lunch time lies In the- laps of the gods and there's no sense in fretting about it. There's as much style 1 these days la clothes tor girls as there la in the dresses designed for their mothers. . In fact, many of the fashionable features that combine to make a woman's clothes chic are seen In the frocks of their daughters. ' Prints are particularly! good this fall for any schoolgirl, be she kindergarten or high school age. Prints, and plaids, too, are coloring vividly the Juvenile fash ion scene. There are nautical prints, nose-gay prints, conven tional designs and every - oiner kind that ingenious designers can think up. Plaids are bold and colorful with lots of reds and greens and .blues. There are all kinds of nice things about dresses of this type. Thoy're youthful; they don't soil ; easily and they re flattering to lmma ture figures. At Relative's Funeral ELLENDALE Mr. an Mrs. John Martin. Mr. and Mrs. Ernest Martin and 'Mr. and Mrs.; Lester Martin attended the funeral of Mrs. Eva Robinson of Amity Sat urday at the Amity Christian church. Mrs. Robinson Is Mrs. John Martin's oldest sister. Mr and Mrs. Mark Blodgett of Pio neer also went to-the funeral. She was a sister to Mr.' Blodgett also Fa Style A P ew York Suits and i Hose, -Bags, Lingerie To Complete any Costume O i ! - Foundation Garments Made to Your Measure Which Will mprove: Every SHOES Styled and Made by the Worlds Finest Makers HATS Worlds Most Exclusive Desjsns yT 'P Sale; m m . - - - i. Lamps Styled to Match furniture . ..following the lea iaail - , of the novelty H""JJ are being tld oH.harmoniS. with the vtflOM""'"'- period designs. , For many years laanps lagge behind furniture styje. Duriat; . --- V aw tar i the Utt few aeasona, "- ..v 4m.nl for "lanips "a yiiuijv ... . . accessories that bieott..well with teriod designs has saow - ' m ta manufacturers tnat J i.L have to look at the accept -niture deslfaUcvet 'their atyle inspirations. . t.iv. nan In last summers or-.. . .1.11 il.ilrned ! SO lamps epevwuj with period furniture wera shown, so i. V won i Biie iu. - - --. , Ing a lamp that will harmonise with wnatever. pen" ture you have in your home. Shades, for the most part, will be in champagne or gold color with dark accents blending with the wood bases or contrasting with the new materials now be ing employed in manufacturing table and floor lamps. "Better light, better aitjht ' lamps have been subjected t.j Im proved styling, and through the use of hollophane glass and no glare reflectors, a new grace is being Incorporated Into these sci entifically designed lamps which makes tthem blend and harmon ize with the furniture of your rooms. 1 P a r e Goats D resses Garment Season i M I 'i i