- i ' - : ti " " fclw OREGON STATESMAN, Salem, Oregon; Thursday Morning September 2, 1937 '.. .. , - .. ' . , - " . i PAGE FOURTEEN 4.f Men to Dress To Suit Times Improved Conditions Will Be Reflected; Styles 1 More Attractive T By PATTERSON GEORGE 5 Though a representative num i ber of American men, both young : and old, hare long since r e c o g t nized the value of dressing as well i as they can, both for socials and commercial reasons, the nation ad a whole has passed through' a long : ,. and , laborious transformation to I gain Its present 'foothold on the I top rung of the world's sartorial i ladder." : - t By no means 1 the . least of the obstacles to be overcome was the ;i old tradition that. America is pri ll marily a nation of "hard hitting, . bewhlskered pioneers whose repu s tation as fearless frontiersmen t would be reduced to ashes were f they to forsake their homely "go ; to-meetln' " homespuns for clean S shirts. This p a ss e d, of course, f with the beginning of the great American fortunes jhen money ? Just had to'be spentvm culture s and culture included sorties into r the art of dressing.- - - Obstacles Hit - - , Second was the fact that Amer s lea was too busy making money j to spend much time In the choice .5 - of a necktie (let that be a job for i- the women folks), and, thirdly, a : parely psychological idea that . . Englishmen had the edge In being i - well dressed, anywayyso why do anything about it? Few stopped i to realize that Englishmen had s that edge only .becaise climatic r conditions automatically mad? dressing an integral-flart of their i lives and because American de i! signers and manufacturers were ; too occupied with mass and vol : ume production to compete with I the ' hand . finished craftsmanship t of Britain' slower moving but more thorough tailoring fraterri Ity. i- j Most of these obstacles, real or j Imaginary as they might have - been, were practically wiped out ; In the 1929 goldUtrike when j fAmerlcan men took ajj no uricer- ' tain lead In the taste and cost of I their - wearing apparel. Just as f they began asserting their claims V to distinction, however! came the I depression and again clothes for i the -average American? male? be- came a secondary and financially almost impossible! consideration'. I It costs money to :dresa well' and I most men didn't hbre It, with the result that tailor! and fariufac- turers, wholesalers and retailers went backward 'to cheaper com modities and tj" only the essen tials. ..?. '' f America "Dresses Up" j Emerging now into a new and lasting looking prosperity, Ameri ca fa again eprncing up and this time, : if the j Indications of the last few seasons are any criterion, its position as the world's! No. 1 Nation of Well Dressed Men will be permanent and uncontestable. Quality Is back. Culture and taste are again on the upswing, and business is once more selecting the better dressed men as its fav orite. Today no nation! under the sun can possibly point out so many clothes conscious mn in all classes as the United States. .. Bearing out the situation as a sequence that would naturally fol low is the marvelous array of men's wearign. apparel I which ail stores are stocking and the high--ly specialized manner in which men's clothes are being . bought ana sola. ' . i - Beauty Is Paramount Beauty in color and in line is the keynote of. the present sea son. Take a peek at men's; suits. Gorgeous is a word seldom: to be used for male apparel,' yet that is exactly the description that ap plies to some ef the I off-shade browns, tans, blues, grays, and the wide variety of combinations. Choose either a single or double breasted model, and in a two or three button spread according to your individual build, and you'll be safe, but be sure you get the modified wide (not raised) shoulT aers, narrow waists, and a con servative drape to the chest; peak or notch lapels. ?- Trousers still run to a modified peg and high waist, fojs few are the men today who do not realize that no trouser can hang well without suspenders. In suit fab ric? you have the Customary choice of the popular unfinished worsteds, tweeds, homespuns, Shetland's, cheviot3. and mixtures. Wear any of them to business, for little distinction remains today be tween town and country attire what with the mass of city work ers being suburban commuters, anyway. ! - Topcoats Gome in Two Main Styles Raglan, Single Breasted, and Semi-Form Fitting Types Are Offered I - . ' I , . II Men to Welcome Elastic Leathers That elastic business is going to be a welcome idea to most men. It's . going to make men's ' shoes smarter and easier to fit and bring many possibilities to the field of men's shoe designs. It fslrue that men's shoes vary little year after year, but this fall you'll see the development of some interesting new leathers in addition to the elastic leather. One of them is a great new grain effect running across the shoe that folds gently Into the foot form and allows per fect walking comfort. Men will be sticking to rtraight blacks and darker browns for fall and winter, and their "shoes will see a good bit of the skiing influ ence when it comes to sports wear, The chill of fall evenings prob ably will put a topcoat in your mind early In the season, la thU garment you have a choice of two major models the ever pop ular and correct loose fitting rag lan shoulder which almost invar iably comes In a single breasted, and the semi-form fitting model, more tailored in appearance, for those who like to stress town wear clothes. The latter can be either single or double breasted. ' It is strictly a matter of per sonal choice plus, of course, a consideration for your physical make-up. If you are stout, bet ter stick to the single breasted streamline effect . j Raglans automatically feature tweeds and home-spuns in fab rics, while the form fitting gar ments feature unfinished wor steds, a few gabardines and, this year, covert cloth. Shoulders are square bu.t not exaggerated. La pels are either petrited or notch ed, and colors run the gamut of beautiful autumn browns,' tans, blues and grays. You'll see a large selection of new designs In fabrics, including .diamond weaves, herringbones, And over plaids. OverplaJds in Overcoats Overcoats likewise feature an outstanding' assortment of over plaid designs. Three major mod els give every man a choice of weight in winter coats. Those who lead Btrictly an office life and enjoy highly tailored wear ing apparel will, of course, select a single or double breasted semi form fitting model. The man who likes a compromise will select what Is now known as the town ulster a coat which is gaining in 'popularity every year because it gives warmth and body with out too much bulk and weight. This r merely a three button, double breasted model with the tack Fulled in slightly by a half belt. The strictly country ulster or great coat is usually four but tons, with both breast and side pockets and with full or half belt. f It is in the luxurious colorings and the rich downy weave of the cloths that overcoats are attract ing new interest and attention. Checks, plaids, overplaids, and herringbone patterns present a wide and attractive choice. . Dayton Man Stricken DAYTON M. R, Cooper owner and manager of the Dayton box factory was taken seriously ill Friday morning. At last report he was gaming satisfactorily. Men's Hat Modes Are loy Crowned Coming around to accessories we find ' bate continuing to fea ture a slightly lower erown and wider brim and with nap brims giving way in slightly more mea sure to off the face brims. This does sot mean Homburgs. They are in a class by them selves, a strictly traditional mod el which la good one year after, another, especially tor men who wear more formal- tailored clothes to business and older men. ; The other off the face style is merely a flexible felt model, quite often with a welt edge, which turns up slightly at the edge of the brim only. In the main, however, yon probably will see a predominance of the Jaunty snap brim. Brown with its many offshoots again will rule hat colors for fall and winter, although gray 'is nev er without its large following? Interior Harmony Need Is Forecast Novelty and occasional furni ture are patterning themselves after the big lines of furniture. Designs to harmonize with the new living room styles are being Introduced, so that If you want a bookcase, small table or some other piece of occasional furni ture to match up with modern, eighteenth century, French or American deijns you'll be able to get just what yu want In the correct color finish and wood that wilL blend well with your larger pieces. There were some pieces in rare reneers displayed bat chiefly the novelty furniture was made up In new tones of walnut, ma hogany, maple and a number of light woods calculated to har monize with the major furniture styles. As in every furniture market showing many new things were ehown in the novelty furniture lines. Most outstanding were photomural screens to blend with modern or period rooms. Still life models, sailboats silhouetted in the moonlight, cherry blos soms in full bloom these- and many other scenes are depicted on three panel, decorative screens by a new photographic process. Another novelty group that merits attention is the perma nent bridge and card sets. There was one striking bridge set done In fruitwood with chairs uphol stered In chartreuse green .leath er, another presented a zebra wood and walnut table and chairs upholstered in white leather and an unusual one In mahogany with unusual hoopback chairs. Shirts in Brown Or Navy Advised By all . means buy your boy colored shirts navy or brown. What a boon they are to moth ers weary of looking at dirt streaked white ones! Then, of course, he'll need sweaters and jackets. Now that tippers are almost universally used on boys' clothing, sweaters have a way of looking much neater than they formerly did. besides his winter coat that youll want want to keep nice looking for Sunday wear and special occasions, get him a really good leather Jacket that is warmly fleece lined. These marvelous- garments will keep him comfortable In even the coldest weather and they, 'too, will stand all kinds of rough treatment. Go through the pock ets regularly and remove all rus ty nails, dead bugs, pebbles, mar bles, etc., etc. . It's not the style any more for toys to wear cumbersome under wear with tetig sleeves and legs. If your bc is healthy there's no need for rUy heavy underwear. The new weaves are so well made that there's plenty of warmth in even the briefest of garments. Collar-Attached Shirts Preferred Getting into shirts we find more and more men turning to the comfort of collar attached models. These feature several types of collars, the polo or long pointed button-down collar, the shorter pointed wide spread button-down Icollar so ' popular with the duke : of. Windson, the long pointed unbuttoned collar, and the higher round edge style which carries no points at all and which Is snubbed closely to the neck ;with a collar pin. All are in good taste. It Is in shirt patterns and fab rics where newness still Is run ning riot. Pronounced checks, plaids, and other more Intricate designs diversify the choice. They are good, but they must be used with discrimination and with some thought as to how they harmonize with the rest of your ensemble. Colorado Woman Guest Of Talbot Relatives TALBOT Mrs. N. S. Nave had as her Sunday guest her cousin, Mrs. Lydia Hill of Colo rado Springs. Mrs. Hill will de turn to her home in Colorado Springs this week. Miss Neva Emmons of Tan gent visited friends here last week. The Emmons family were former residents. EL. e -ft if3 SATURDAY Nisht 0 o Open Till 9 pan. ' j 50c Down tj) 75c Week . JEWEL WALTHAM STRAP WATCH nfrji b . via mm ill 50c Down 50c, Week . A Real Buy Pay 50c Down $0.45 $(g.95 Latest Mode!, &lft OC 50c a Week ylU73 MAM NED SPEC HALS For Weekend Shoppers Kt. Beautiful $37.50 3 ONLY Ya Mountings. Only IB IKi H ED AIL VS E5.'3F S $8.95 $10.75 $12.95 $16.65 50c DOWN 50c WEEK lTEWKfS -BSE CREDIT JEWELERS & OPTICIANS 184 N. LIBERTY ST. 2 Doors frortuPenney'f . .- . ; ; ' in i t I tS3 IS1 1 SI-" 53 HI : j j .1937 1 VTj V t Bishop's Greatest Presentation of Foremost Styl f es ror M en an d Y oung M en COME SEE OUR ELABORATE DISPLAYS V 3:- FREE Thursday Night, A Fine . Pacemaker Y Suit Free at Phoney Money Auction i wiMun i :du p. m. Featuring the Finest Quality Nationally xKnoivn El 3H Lines of America Hart - Schaffner & Marx, Michaels - St am Never before have we been able to offer such a vast assortment of the smartest new fall clothes for men and young men. Featuring every popular style . . . sports . . . double breasted . . . singles and plain con servative models. . . . Every new shade and pattern is represented in this, one of the finest and largest clothing stocks in Oregon. i ern and Varsity Town SUITS d TOPCOAT (Including the Famous H-S-M Hand Made, $50) AKER 99 Bishop's Famous ''PAGE i ' i" " ?: ' .' ' '. : f AND TOPCpATS, LEAD THE FIELD IN. VALUE POR PALL M SUITS Featuring for fall this greatest clothing value offered in the west J. s Beautiful new virgin wool fabrics. 1 f 2000 TWENTY GRAND STETSON and MAIiLORY HATS 00 and up Get a head start for fall with one of these fine hats. . . . Every new color and style. A style for every face. Beautiful new felts and real Values. vfJUs,r'':;4:.:,:s,:; SHOP FOR FALL FROM ONE OFiTHE WEST'S LARGEST - AND FINEST STOCKS Woven in our own mills and tailored to our own specif ications in the season's smarS est new styles, patterns and colors . See Salem's greatest clothing value now S these new "pacemakers.V " ARROW "SHIRTS' Exclusively in Salem 200 and 250 In Salem exclusively at Bishop's are these fine: shirts. I Featured in a one of the finest And most extensive showings in the west. . . . Large selection, j BUS ihiip PRSHEIM Exclusively in Salem are these fflmnn. tJn- Known oes . Every new style and shrdeTor SHOES J! 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