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About The Oregon statesman. (Salem, Or.) 1916-1980 | View Entire Issue (Sept. 22, 1932)
PAGE SIXTEEN The OREGON STATESMAN, Salem, Oregon, Thursday Morningr, September 22, 1922 - s"1. ' ' : suns mmr Silk Decorations, Various : Novel Stripes Will be Seen This Autumn It Is not the material which will he winning most of our attention this year, but rather the variety and Individuality of-the neat fab ric designs. Contrast weares will not by any means be lacking, but to much restraint will be exercis ed la developing t hem thata they will, in all instances, present a new and pleasing effect. t Silk decorations will often liven np the most somber of the fabrics, nd we will take readily to the harp pencil stripes, the bird'seye, dice, shadow stripe, and diagonal weaves. Broken herringbones occur re peatedly in sport and semi-sport woolens, and when it comes to the O- MISS MIX IN COURT MIX-UP v. If JLL in is 01 NECKTIES There Lav been report that men's clothing Is going to have a mighty . sombre aspect tils fall, but of on thing we're certain, after having reviewed the necktie exhibit and that . Is that jfever before has so ranch gaiety been seen evidenced in fall and winter neckwear. For once we can truly ay that art has invaded the clothing scene, and that many a new necktie design is worthy of hanging in s gallery of textile patterns deserving of honorable mention. Fabric Wherever we turn, we are con fronted with interesting novelties, one of the most interesting of which is the introduction of wool en ties. These ties are In various textures, weaves, and weights, and were first accepted by that paragon of style the world over' His Royal Highness the, Prince of Wales. These- ties bad a fore runner in the cashmere ties of the past summer, hut for, fall and win ter tbey take on greater sub stance. A similar novelty is - the Crocheted woolen tie, which is more sporty looking than the oth er more closely woven types. These ties most frequently are seen in stripes of various widths, combining such colors as red. black and white, orange navy and powder, bottle green, tan, and brown. College men will be par ticularly partial to the biases stripes, in authentic colors, fa these woolens, too, we see three color checks In either small or large effects, while the silk and wool mixtures take to more re- Little Jackets Complementary To Formal Gown Most gowns, no matter how simple they are, have their little complementary Jackets, the fab ric not necessarily the same, be cause many-sheer, fabrics are fa vored which "would not be prac tical for, cold weather wear but the colors either harmonious or interestingly contrasted. For instance, a chiffon dinner gown might be completed with a fined patterns, and introduce small, neat all-over designs. Very Interesting ate the ties made with out linings, and which because of their special cut are able to be draped in one piece thereby per mitting easier, neater tying. little" velvet jacket to which is attached at cape almost reaching to the elbow, and banded In a strip of loVely fox. Similarly, a printed lace gause gown mignt be. eonrpleted by a heavy crepe Jacket-cape In . a . rich shade of orange, completed by ft shawl col lar of kolinsky. .. Some' Jackets also combine vel vet-with crepe, the erepe contin uing from the lining to form ; a wide' scarf ended in cut sections of the velvet, petal shaped. In the more elaborate Jackets, we see draped shoulder sections vol uminous over, the shoulder, but leaving the entire back and front of the wrap plain. Larwood Pupils Attend at Scio LARWOOD. Sept. SI The com ing of the school has Monday spelled. the last day of vacation' for children of this community. Tb.ls .will be the third year that they have -attended ; the Scio school and the arrangement seems altogether satisfactory. The Providence school opened Monday with an attendance of 12 pupils and Mrs. Roseoe Gaines as teacher. . Tom Mix, to.. boy f rc?n star, and bin for tier wife, Victoria Alazatutl, now the wife, of. Manuel D. Alaxabal, wealthy Argentinian, were to face each other ia court in a contest ever the custody of their daughter, Thoriiaslna Mix; 10. Thomasioa la now with her mother, but her father in his petition for a modification of the court order made at the time they were divorced, stated he had married Mabel Hubbel and had established, a home and he was in a position to provide a home and education for his daughter. Photo shows left to right in court: Mrs. Alaxabal, the former Mrs.. Tom Mix, Thorn asina Mix and her grandmother Mrs. Fetters. WoolensjTake Their Role In Formal Wear This Year glenurquharts, there is more and more ommision of the contrast stripe of red or green, and only the one tone is used, as it noticed also In overplalds. which will doubtless prove quite popular among the younger men. i Color . For variety, there is little to! be said about color, but for newness we want to stress the Oxford (in fluence which has been exercised. The outstandingly important color is gray! deep, dark Oxford gray7 And here we may say a word about Its practicability. It is in good taste everywhere, somewhat taking the place of the former navy blue it affords a splendid foundation for any contrasting color combination in accessories which suit the individual taste -it can be worn for semi-formal eve nings where there is a crowd of "mixed dresB" and it is always, in good taste for business wear. Although the greens and blijes , of the past few seasons are going to be almost entirely neglected, those of mostly grayish cast w411 continue to some extent, and dafk, purplish brown will be another good color. The distinctly sport suit will, however. Introduce another shade which will be omitted from the regular suit calendar and that is a sandy brown which has an out door ruggednees. We must not fall to mention here that orerchecks, as well as the above mentioned overplalds will be used a great deal in sport suits no doubt : to break up the monotony of an oth erwise seriously toned wardrobe. Tailoring ' In English style reports we have seen evidence of the fact that al though the fitted waist suit, with exaggerated, padded shoulders, was of English inspiration, the American tailors have sought to carry the idea too far in present ing it to American men. And being always proud of their fine Judgment and complete good taste the English have let it be known that they would rather see us express in our clothing the re finements of this style form. That English, influence is the most important in the men's "clothing world cannot by any means be doubted and we may, therefore, expect to see a substan tial modification of waistlines and shoulders, giving us more of the casual good fit for which the Bond Street talor has won an interna tional reputation. Throughout the wardrobe will be seen more conservative, more easy fitting jackets, simple in cut, with comfortable fullness over the shoulder blades. Where the waist-, line is suggested, it will be in per fect fit, not in a nipped-in, tight ened line which almost gives a break.. Over the hips, too, there will be obvious a more generous eut, and "Jackets will in many in stances be slightly longer than In the past three or four seasons. We wonder what our mothers would have thought 15 or 20 years ago, If they saw offered for their formal gowns sheer woolens. heavy woolens, all sorts of rough crepes, and crinkly textures. They probably would have laughed but today we accept these fabrics most seriously. Other than those already mentioned, the classic ma terials of all ages satin (dull and shiny) chiffon, brocaded satin, and velvets continue to be seen in the most distinctive dresses. Xew Silhouette The first thing we notice when we look at tnese new dresses, whether they be for informal din ner parties, or for the most gala dances, is the fact that they mark a return to the princess silhouette still it can hardly be called a return, so different are these styles. The silhouette is, of course. sleekly moulded to follow the body lines, by means of ingeniously placed seams, inserted strips, and delicate tuckmgs. Often in fact most often, we see nothing at all of a belt, nor do we need one, because our 193 2 gown follows our new curves so perfectly that our natural waist line Is emphasized in a more flat tering way. Side ornaments, such as buckles, bows, and flowers will be used to further stress tms pomi of interest, but our attention is going to be centered on bodice treatments, necklines, back man- Ipuiations, and in dinner frocks shoulder effects or sleeves. ' - New Colors We're all going to try to get the spotlight on us this fall and win ter when we step out in our eve ning clothes so let's have the col ors of the season pass before us in review. Black is always a wise thing to have, whether it be in velvet for sophistication, or lace for demure ness; Casino and Black-coffee browns, which are startlingly dark tones of brown for evening wear and most effective for blondes and redheads; rouge, which is an honest-to-goodness soft red; blue night, which looks as irresistible as it sounds, and is particular! lovely when developed in peau d'ange jersey with a shiny sur face; Prunelle is one of those fascinating new reddish, purplish tones which express sophistication to its final degree, and Black Iris is an off-shade of --blue, which should be particularly effective in either a soft tricot, or in a dull satin. As we get a little bolder, we turn to the violent, violet reds, and to jacqueminot, which has a tinge of yellow, then we couple Parma violet with chartreuse green, and vet a very French ef fect, or we put a touch of coral and a dash of lemon on a black gown, or touch up a hyacinth blue frock with black. T 1 v v v.v .v.v.tr; .y.; J wv T yx;:vvrfxi:-:!l A vr , fev.v..v.v.w. jap BISHOP'S 42nd 44 . 4m in sura SOCIAL GREAT SUCCESS SHAW, Sept. 21 The annual bazaar sponsored by the, Shaw parish Sunday was a success both socially and financially. At noon a chicken dinner was served in! the school. Winners of the prizes were: permanent wave, Fred Got- E EIGHT n SIR The necessary shoes to a "com plete and well rounded wardrobe consists of eight individual styles which might be found In the wardrobe of any man who prides himself on his fastidiousness and the fact that he is always perfect ly groomed. Fortunately, prac tically every pair of these shoes is 'sufficientlv versatile to serve a double purpose in the average life, so that the man who cannot afford to indulge in the luxury of so extensive a list may choose according to his activities. Pieces of Eight A very popular daytime shoe is that built on tapered lines, and with a wing tip, accented by per foratlons. This shoe is more for mal in black, and is worn in eith er that color or brown for bus iness wear, with casual clothes. If bought In brown however, it also has a perfect sports personal ity, and may be worn with defln ltely sport clothing. A somewhat similiar shoe, with the exception of the wing tip uses delicate per forated tracings to follow a de sign on the toe, and is worn in either brown or black. Some men like this shoe's semi-formality so well that they select It in both colors, to match up with grays. blues and browns. Duo Purpose Still another shoe adaptable to the 'daytime business suit is the all brown or all black shoe with straight tip the same model in black being acceptable tor formal daytime wear, upon such occas ions as weddings, church servi ces and so on. Spectator Sport There has been recently intro duced for formal sport wear at clubs, golf tournaments, races, etcetera, the all brown buckskin shoe in a dark, coppery tone with wing tip or perforated toe. Active Sport This shoe is still a high style novelty, but Is being accepted more and more by the average man to whom sport life is impor tant. Next we come to the active sport shoe of tan and brown el skin, with spiked sole and heel, and occasionally a moccasin toe in either case accepted by sportsmen everywhere. '4 i- - ' "few; SEAL-DYED FUR IS fin; quilt, Theodore Highberger of Aumsville; quilt. Anne Stute of Woodbum; quilt, Peter Myer of Mt. Angel; heifer calf, John Doz ler of Stay ton, lumber, Jol Klien of Shaw. - I POPE PIUS RECEIVES GUESTS -o- s if,'; f 3 "If i i 7 V ; i 4! . An unusual photo showing His Eoliness Pope Pius XI on his throne in the reception Toota of the Vatican at he minted an audience te a num ber ef visitors from vsrioxa parts of the world. Rarely indeed it a eamerja permitted within the sacred precincts ef the Vatican, and hardly wrer jnstde the reeertjon room . where the Pontiff grant audience, POPULAR l COATS Aside from the spotted furs mentioned in reference to the swagger coats which are also used as mediums for these semi- dress type, great popularity is be ing shown seal-dyed muskrat. and silver muskrat, Alaska sel, kid. pony, and lapln. In many instances the furs are self-trimmed . although in many instances a fitch, fox, or other contrasting fur is used. It is in teresting to note that little or nothing Is seen of cuffs, the gen eral belief being that the average .woman looks more graceful and slender in a euf fless coat. ' -Throughout '.- these informal formal garments, we see easy fit ting lines, stressed waists, and manipulated bodice fullness, skirts : remaining narrow, slender, and somewhat wrapped this effect often being gained by means of side closings with three or four large buttons of fur, or prefer ably, metal or wood. Sleeves get Interest solely through detailing, and a snug line is smartest for the forearm section, most of the fanciful ideas being carried out at or above the elbow by means of puffs, shirring, or inserted bands of contrasting .fur. - ... ........ OPENING EVENT PRESENTING THE SEASON'S FINEST AND MOST EXTENSIVE SHOWING FOR Men and Young Men NOW OPENS OUR -GREATEST MERCHANDISING CAMPAIGN OF 42 YEARS With this super value giving campaign we come to you this season ready to serve you as never before. Never In our 42 years of service to this community have we been able to offer such outstanding values and such a fine enormous selection of real quality merchandise. There la no store in Oregon outside of Portland that can show you such an Immense stock of Men's and Boys' wear . . . Many stores are envious of the large volume of business we do and the thousands of satisfied customers we have, but they overlook or ignore the fact that we have earned your patronage by building up a standard of quality unequalled at our prices, and through the fact that we are al ways first in consideration of our every patron; to the strict adher ence of high business principles and to every advancement and the upbuilding and prosperity of Salem and Willamette valley. And now for this season we come to you with a sense of responsibility as never before -to meet the economic conditions and to meet your every desire andrequirement, forgetting all profits in. order that every man may have the clothes he has needed at the savings which will aid in bringing happiness and prosperity.. .We cordially invite you to visit our store and whether you buy or not you;will always find courteous salesmen willing to give you the most pleasing service. C. P. BISHOP, Pres. It. H. COOLEY, Mgr. Bishop's Fall Merchandise Has Been Purchased With Most Discriminating Care, Your Every Desire For Smart, Fashionable Clothing at the Low 1932 Prices Has Been Fulfilled. Pacemaker Suits and Top Coats In this famous line for fall it gives you with out a doubt the greatest suit value every offer ed. Floe fabrics and excellent tailoring in every garment. ,". Ivery new style rjr CA every fccw color,' See these now wl I tJU Smarter Suits for College Men BY BRAEBURN AND HART, SCHAFFNER & MARX Shown at Bishop's exclusively: In these fine, suits you get the most outstanding fabrics and finest tailoring and positively the smartest styles' . . . How at the Mr to CQQ Crt new low prion OAU wOJhJU Bishop's Amazing Suit Value for Fall This is Indeed a real economy suit: ftne an wool nicely tailored in "newest styles;' conserva tive, and young men's: and salts that tost sea son sold u? to to. How offered Q J nc at one low price ................ OJLt IU Hunters Claim Little Success ' KLAMATH FALLS. Ore.. Sept. SO (AP) First-day deer hunt ers returned to Klamath Falls to night with little to show for a day to the woods. r - - ; State police, checking hunters at Olene. Ota found only B deer! among ss nunters. . : z SEE OUR ELABORATE WINDOW DISPLAY OF THE NEWEST FOR MEN C. P. BISHOP President I R. H. COOLEYy CLOTHWOrWDOIJSM MILXO jPIPBS i f J