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About The Oregon statesman. (Salem, Or.) 1916-1980 | View Entire Issue (March 11, 1932)
The OREGON STATESMAN, galea, Oregon, Friday Morning Hxrca 11. 1332 ) FAGS TBI1ZI2 r Femininity is Enhanced by Inclusion of This old ; Favorite of Dress Here is Something to Think About! Lace, delicate fabric which has Ions been the insignia of dainty ladies and arlstdcracj, has again come back to lend one more touch of delicate femininity to the dress of maid and matron this spring. For several years this encroach ment of sheer .feminine fragileness has been, sneaking into the ward robe of the "Independent Ameri can woman and proud of It." It has taken Its toll of severe sports clothes and has added length and soft charm to gowns that had been greatly yes, shockingly abbre rlated, according to some. And now from Its use In adding clinging fn tin ess to gowns of for mal dignity and then to the next step ot being nsed . for complete formal gowns very lovely things that accentuated the dainty fem inine lore of evening clothes, lace now comes into use In the street dress of ' milady -for. her spring wardrobe. This has been made possible be cause of the general use and pop ularity of the ensemble, and the chic little Jacket which is a part of nearly every dress this spring. With the jacket It is easy to makeJ with tiny cap sleeves. The upper past of the waist Is much more often than not of lace, and the lower part of the waist and the skirt are of the same material as that of the jacket. i This use of lace softens the lines of tired faces and adds fresh glow and soft beauty to youth, so it must needs be popular. There has always been such .fragility in lace that it has been associated with such romantic things as are rep resented by "lavender and old lace," and alluring perfumes. Huring the days of chivalry and those lesser days which followed and brought with them rather ef- femlnlte men lace was distinctly a part of the wardrobe of these men. It seemed to signify their gentle courtesy and knightly manners. Women at that time wore lace in all manner of ways. And such lace as it was!, Hand made, sheer as gossamer, and in exquisite, designs. Today there is little to be had of such fine laces. Fortunate is she indeed who has in her wardrobe some of the fine laces of her ancestors! Yes. it Is a delightful note the use of lace In the costumes of the modern woman this spring. It fortells a sweet gentleness that is never a,miss in human relation ships, and which will only clothe in grace the firm Independence of modern woman. 1 : ' , s , ' r ' ' w ..v.:.:.:vv.,.y.' :: v ;v: : :': : : ;; .j . y , . . . f t ' v;-' : I .... ... V. -Vv- i; - ?5 v if I ' . '"AX''?' x ,' K'aK :, ,n ; , j $KA& 4i 5 " I- ?v I ? 1- ; t S' . t imi u. K Tailed Coats Also Worn In London but 'Americans - r Wont-Like Them AYheu a dit is bought it In only half the dress struggle. There must be ndded the Accessories which are m necessary as the frosting to a rake. London Is the nucleus of all Im portant styles for, men, and at the recent social events attended by royalty a clear picture Is obtained ot what will be presented for the American man's spring social sea son. Both tailed coats and Infor mal dinner jackets are worn abroad, and this Is a certain In dication that the American man will take advantage of the favor shown the Informal types by wear ing them almost exclusively. Re is. admittedly more in favor of non chalant comfort than dignified formality. For one thing, the tailed eve ning coat Is eut to show more ot the shirt and waistcoat, and places tnree buttons, going In a diagonal line, to emphasize the tapering waist. The lapels are very softly rolled and do not break high,, but fit close to the figure, accenting a raised waistline. As in women's fashions the higher waistline is being emphasized more and more. because it is flattering to the fig ure and does much to add height. Another type of coat makes use of a shorter lapel, rolled In semi- soft fashion to a point exactly cor responding with the first button of the waistcoat, and showing less of Salvaging Last Year's Wardrobe is Specialty OFFICERS SUSPENDED PORTLAND, Feb. 29. (AP). W. B. Adair and William M. Bu choltz, Portland police patrolmen, were suspended today pending a hearing before Chief of Police L. vr Jenkins on charges of drunken ness while on duty. There never has been a time in years when the wardrobe of last year offered such possibilities for salvage as it does this Bpring. Cheerful news in a season of such economic depreesion, and what is more cheerful, if you are not one of -those women who can make something out of nothing there are several shops in Salem which are specializing in this very art. One in particular was established for that very purpose, and the cost is not so bad, either. To begin with, bear Jn mind that nearly all materials are be ing combined. That is, there will be used a skirt and jacket of one material and a blouse or at least a top of the blouse in some con trasting materials. The use of prints this year Is being confined to the contrast thus affected, rather than being used in complete dresses. Plain colors are being used too, and the effect is stunning. . Lines too, are an aid to this re making. Seams are used for trim ming and lines are inclined to fit close to the body. This allows for small pieces in skirts, and encour ages godcts and bias effects. It will be an easy manner to take two dresses of last summer. and combine them into a smart ensemble for this spring. Thin1! of the joy of being able to have a handsome, smart new gown and not have a cent of expense ex cept for the remodeling! Touches of color is used in many unexpected places on the new dresses, sleeves are the main 'trim' taken together witbJJut- tona and queer little fancy trills of material and a dress Is hardly complete without a tiny jaeket ef fect of some sort, and there are many sorts from which to choose a style. Without doubt,, there! has not been- a time for years when dress es could be made over with such gallant results as is possible to day. And the wise lady with a veary meagre allowance for clothes will study well her ward robe and act accordingly. Bright colors are in favor this spring and on this score do not overlook the gentle art of dying to change old frocks to new. Belt Important Factor Due to " Hi?h Waistline The Importance which has been given the high waistline in the va rious fashions of the day, add greatly to the significance of the belt as a costume accessory and we find leathers, fabrics and met als being used in individual ways. to gain interesting effects. For the most part belts have taken on considerable width, em bracing the waist a3 girdles rath er than in narrow form. In patent leather and kid we find them used plain, pulled through ' self or wooden buckles with at slightly crushed effect at the point of clos ing. Some belts, on the other hand are entirely manipulated to give a crushed, or sometimes folded im the shirt and waistcoat than t&t former model, but repeating the two seta of diagonal Buttons. This model is slightly mora conserva tive, vnttlar the 'waist and hips accurately, and accenting the high waist in less emphatle manner. ; The trousers In both types fea ture fairly narrow legs, cat rath er narrow -on the thigh and utte close fitting on the hip, the crotch eat high, 'and two very long pleats on either hip, helping to give an effect or, greater height to the wearer. . Fabrics favored are clear cat worsteds In serge-like weaves, and nara, clear cat canvas weaves." Oc casionally, particularly In the In formal dinner suit, a fancy ripple. or bird's wing design Is Interwov en with a small herringbone, and although black is the first choice for color, there are also a great number of blue-blacks, raven blues, and midnight blues, all of Which are considerably darker than navy, bat vibrant neverthe less. In accord with this preference for color, the facings of satin on the jackets are in exactly the same shade, as . are the bow ties. A white tie is never worn with this type of dress suit, it being relegated to the formal outfit. Speaking ot ties, they are con siderably larger than they have been for the past two or three seasons, with a large number, of well-dressed men favoring those with two loops and two ends about two Inches deep, the ends being pointed. Waistcoats present an interest ing variety, with the single- breasted type the most promi nent, and soft collar or roll effect taking the place of actual lapels. Evening collars, too, have gained fa leliht, bat w notleo that tha eat-oni -portion In the front Is considerably wider, with, tha wing folded j hack flat on tha. collar, and thft bow always worn entirely eatsldi and over tha wing. Onefman who wished to ho dif- ferentJ was noted at one of these social (affairs In a dinner jaeket featuring only two. buttons, with which ho' wore a soft black hat In , Hotnburg styling, 'the curled brim bound . in ' black grosgrala ribbon; the crown being fairly high, and banded. In ribbon about two and a quarter inches wide. Although . there Is no drastic change in the styling of topooats. we did notice one type which la getting great attention: it is the formal coat of black Vienna with a .verjf deep front which showed np to advantage the collar and whole bosom, of the dress shirt. farther accenting top interest by extremely wide lapels with a soft roll. . and notch high, near the shoulder. Thej waist' Is tapered in this type ef coat by means of deep darts extending to the pockets, the coat having a fly front, and a centre seam and vent at back It la true that these are all typically English fashions,' but after all. the finest American tailors fashion tneir styles ac cording to these prominent "Eng lish models, which come from London's best tailoring establish ments. These types are not ex treme.-"but they are new, and to wear the dress suit ot a year ago this spring will make one as conspicuously out of style as it would be to wear patent leather shoes j with a golt salt. HI E There Is the auestlon of waist line to be dealt with this year. It Is smart to have a raised lino for the' dresses. . coats . and even the negligees. The line Is not accentu ated to the degree of a princess line hat Is jast enough to fool the observer as to the real waistline and create a "ihort-waisted" effect. Gowns In accordance are fitted so that a slim, graceful effect Is gained and with that there mast be no wrinkles. Bias cat for skirts, accentuated - lines running np to thja waistline all contribute to the snag, smooth flt ot gowns. " ; The bias eat is especially effec tive and allows for fullness In the skirt and at the same time gains a trim, snug waist. The line ot the waist Is general ly-gained by the use of a belt. Belts may bo narrow or again they may be wide sash effects for those ladies with prominent hips who raeslre to accentuate the waist yet retain some semblance of slender ness. This is done by letting the wide sash-like belt drop in grace ful loop in front and be caught straight about the waist at the back, l . Shirring at the waistline to take In the fullness and create the rais ed waistline effect was seen in a gown that was truly beantlfulA wide belt that fastened a loop at the back began in the nnder-arm seam, thus the front of the gown was left smooth except for the shlrrlnr. ' i Belts that fasten with buckles, belts that tie. belts that nn long belt that flip through leepe: and Una make a very fancy clos ing. aH are in good standing.', t ; - It will be found ta planning the the belt In these snng fitting dresses makes an important item of style. -. -:. . . Of Suits Noted : For New Season Although there Is a slight pref erence shown for three-ensrter length suits, the majority of them are In the more youthful, short types. In the sport versions, many winabreaker effect jackets will bo seen, drop shoulder effects and -wide, fitted waistbands accentuat ing the style. - Then we have the Si-Inch jack et, which : is the average hip- length type, and In gtrllih Inter pretations we find the Eton Jacket styling frequently beltless, and handing from the shoulders with only, a slight nipped-ln effect at the waist. This is quite similar to the hip length bolero, with the exception that the Eton may be two or three Inches longer, the In-between of these two styles being the waist length box coat. SELL BRITAIN'S HOG ISLAND HEBBUR N-ON-TTNE. Eng land (AP) The shipyard of Renwlck and Dalgelsh, which cost I2.S00.000 to build 11 years ago, has been sold piecemeal. No ship I was ever built in It. "v 4 . . fill' Pfm Fashion Approves for EASTER The Indispensable Suit Dress smartest new styles in rough silk and woolen crepes with contrasting bodices The Woolen Suit distinctive models, finely tailored with striking individuality of detail. The Sheer Afternoon Frock lovely versions of th mode in the new sheer crepes with lace. ATP. Speer Masonic Temple 115 North High If ri 3 ft I) '" V , one of. the greatest assets any firm can possess is b H I 0 ft ?7"m trii 1 w as Li M sa r - t U H It MA . for to have kept inviolate the public's faith; in spite of depressions and crazy shifting of standards, ranks among the highest forms of suc cess. : . . such has been the pas t history and unwavering ideal of the man9 9 shop. other merchandising institutions once strong in quality prestige have one by one fallen by the wayside ... the temptations to borrow from quality in order to meet price was more than they could resist... the trials of stress times proved too much for them ...they capitulated to price and turned out cheapened goods. . but never the man's shop. from the very beginning we determined to make this shop a standard of comparison for men's wear, and through ups and downs, low sales and high tariffs, we have faithfully maintained this ideal. , certainly, it has taken courage to merchandise quality goods, but we believe that it is best for you, and best for us . . . in fact we feel a moral obligation about it all . . to supply our custo mers with what they expect from us . . . the finest merchandise obtain able. ... to always keep "out in front? in all matters of style, quality and gen uine value. the sftii '41$ state street fashions for men talem, oregon ; ! : 1. -.