SOth Anniversary Editiok. The OregoM Statesman I
Pags Four
Vivid Picture Given of Fancy Fashions Essayed in Full Dres of Those Days;
Pantalettes Lent Dignity'to Skirts; Beaver Hats Popular ; Waists Held 'Way In
"Mk. ; &ii3;-iP Looked : ; $mM-hM 1
EIGHTY years of fashions makes ai amusing parade, -one
which never fails to amuse and ' interest. V, A-' panorama
of the styles from that worn by the readers of the .first
Statesman to those, who 80 years later pick up the anniyerr
sary edition, conjure all manner, of amusing: andV tender
memories on the part of the older people and stir; keen in
terest on the part of the younger, . ""i v ';;V' :v-rV'
Just suppose this to be the evening of; March 28, 1851.
The weekly Statesman is being brought'in; by father as.he
comes home from business. Picture has as he comes ,along-
hlfh bat of lawn colored oeaver;s
coat with, rounded front and a
bit inclined to bo "swallow" tail;
high stoclc eollar with pointed, tips
that threaten the chin If it atarts
to drooo: colored waistcoat.
rather tight fitting trousers of
lighter color than the coat; boota
known aa "congress' with side
elastic to allow for drawing on
and cut rather low and with low
heel this completes father's
appearance as he swings jaunt
ily- along the wooden sidewalk
and up the front steps of home
where mother waits at the door
Mother Very Stiff
Tn Whalebone Skirt
Mother has to step aside toilet
father pass for her crinoline pet.
ticoat stiffened with whale bo"he
jaat "takes" the doorway, And
he has to bend carefully as-be
circles her tiny waist with, his
arm, a waist pinched In with the
most desperate cornets, and made
to appear all the smaller because
of the tight fitting bodice with
its hl-rh collar and tight sleeves.
If she 1 a bit old fashloued
she ia a frilly lace cap perched
on hair parted . In the middle
and brought to a knot at the
back vita round flngc curls es
caping from beneath the knot. A
huge broach and earrings to
match complete mother's appear
ance. Such were the styles of 1850
to 1860. As Is true today there
were innovations. The young
girl wore pantalettes to lend
dignity to skirts thought so'
short as to be indecent. Modarn
woman left off the pantalettes
when she came to the short skirt i
ae. tn the ever returning cycle
of style changes.
Beginning In 1S55 to about
1868. there was a siege of hoop
skirts. These were created on a
frame of wire over which the
cloth was draped.
Hoops Give way to
Crinoline Petticoats
The period of 1860 to 1870
saw- the last of the hoop skirts
swinging along Salem streets and
introduced the crinoline petti
coat, the many flounces of which
gave the desired spreading di
mensions to the skirts. Hair
daring this 10 years was
changed from curls to smooth
sleekness under a mesh net.
Ribbon bands tied about the
head were net uncommon deco
rations. Hats were mostly poke
bonnet and wide-brimmed lag
herns. Shoes wsre low boots
with clastic inserts and slippers
with very low heels. Some of
thf3o shoes as pictured in old
Statesman advertisements are
most amusing. " '
Men's clothes during this ten
years changed very little, but In
the period between 1860 and
1870 the stock collar disap
peared and the low, turn-down
cdllar took Its place. The fa
mous Prince Albert coat, frock
coats, and other "long tail" va
rieties of coat were in vogue un
til about 1900.
White and grey felt bats con
tinued in popularity Into the
1900's, and the high hat In
black, brown, and grey continued
in popularity, with a change of
brim, howavar f r slightly;
-
rolled to a very; r tightly rolled
brim. The "sailor, 'strawbhar
tie- appwmrmncw - vvcwvf n
1890 and 190; .. ' ' .'
Hirstute Adornments
In Great Profusion'
Pictures of men which appear
in the old Statesman shows!de
whiskers,', long; 'flowing whiskers,
mustaches of various... cuts and
flowing designs, .hair , parted In
the middle and pasted-, down a
little - later- the pompadour - and
"side part" came into, vogue.
Necks were not shaved as now
and the present style of close-
clipped hair over the ear a would
bava-started a Hot even in the
early-19 00'e.
.' Buttoned and lace shoes for
men came into vogue with 1870.
Advertisements by Win. Brown
and Co. Show these new styles
and they are very "swank,'. High
10 button shoes for women were
shown 'In an. advertisement by
Brown's in an 1885 Statesman.
The heel was low. and "scooped"
under perhaps the first cousin
to the present French heel.
, Shortly after 1870 the bustle
for women made its appearance.
A style known as the Grecian
benid came Into effect. This was
accomplished by a tight, gored
bodice which pinched In at the
waist meeting a skirt made very
full and which bulged exceeding
ly across- the hips because of a
Urge bustle worn for that very
purpose. The larger the exten
sion and" the- more bend it gave
the more stylish the lady.
In the 1880's the skirts began
to be plain across the front and
draped over the bustle. The
d-npe was..-, a,, sort, of .oyerskirt
effect and created of mi' lady's
back quite a similarity to a
camel's back.
Leg o'Mutton Sleeves'
Make Appearance
It was ,in the 1880'a that. the
large sleeves made an appear
ance and by the nineties they
were almost flying away with the
ladles. Leg o'rauUon sleeves
-rr - i -A
WAS MEM) K STROMA ETAtTJAyT. 175 KORTH COMMKRCIAK WHAVu'sEE iSERV?' StWi (
with variations were a phase of
this big sleeve erase.
A f own of 18,8 shown in a.
Statesman of that yea pictures
a gored and fitted bodice, high
collar, skirt .plain ' in? front and
draped over a ; bustle In back,
sleeves plain with long "caps fas
tened attarmhole and hanging
free over sleeves like two droop
ing wings. s ' " -
The short Jacket was popular
at that time and they; are pie
tared not too -unlike the jacket
of today only they had stand-up
collars and a flare that provided
for a bustle. :
A gown of 180 shows plaid
silk made with tight, fitted bod
ice, sleeves large and fitted at
wrist, plain skirt with drapes in
back over bustle, small hat set
well back on- head, high crown,
banded with ribbon finished with
a bow in front which flared gaily
in high points; above the crown
Corseted Waists
For Fashion's Sake
Corsets which -helped to effect
the "tiny waist as pictured in
the old Statesman look like
nothing more than an hour (lass.
They must have , been ! like an
hour glass too, counted . the
hours until they could be taken
off.
An advertisement from C. P.
Bishop's Woolen MIU store,
showing what the well; dressed
man might be wearing in the
1900 to 1910 period appeared
thus: striped trousers cut much
like trousers of today
with pointed toes, stiff
shoes
bowler,
and the top coat! Came
half way
to the knees, very small collar,
buttoned under a lap sq that no
buttons were in sight and hung
rather full!
A lady facing the gentleman In
this picture wore a long polka
dotted skirt, with a raffle at the
bottom, skirt fitted about the
hips and over the bustle and
flared very full at the! bottom.
Blouse of striped material, large
sleeves with ruffles at wrists, a
fancy "boa" about the neck, hair
arranged in a high roll on her
bead and upon which was
perched a flat, ribbon-decked
bat! Her , shoes were laced and
such heels!
"Ready-Made" Takes
Hand-maker Place
Between. 1910 ' and
1931
what has happened r Plenty in
sofar as women are concerned
Corsets have fallen Into
disfavor,
HOPMEN'S BANQUET. ABOUT 1 900
' i ' I ' '
l,rS-J ., mil
' n,.i t ' -1
.
Up
0
i
Jl
The "ready-made" has. appeared
and become dp reasonable In
price that most peoe buy thetr
clothes in shops j rather than
bother with paving materials
made . into clothes. 1 .
Dress accessories " developed
through f the fncreased power of
manufacturing fbave- become so
numerous that an array of -them
would, leave our grandmother
gasping. Handbags are, prod
uct of the pocketlees dresses cf
. : 1 1 . i .
. IN THE GAY NINETIES
y.f
sociau fukctiow i saltm.
the 1900's. The fur coat rage Is
a product of the present century.
1 Knitted eloping, sweaten,
dresses and such like are also a
product of the twentieth century.
Low shoes - slipper, plain and
fancy oxfoirds," and brogues cam
in after 19J . '
With bobbed ;halr came a com
plete change' in bats close-fit-'
ting, small batsj became the rage,
and now with an attempt being
made to make long hair fashion
able the pendu'lum is swinging
toward the large bat, a sister to
the "merry widow" of 190,8.
As one looks back over the
styles there is in ever recurring
cycle which with variations to
make them nets comes with reg
ularity into the' dress of women'.
Style Note Prevails
In Clothes for men
The men during the past 80
years have straightened out the
fronts of -their Jeoats, pinched In
the waistline a bit, pledged them
selves to the use of oxford shoes,
taken to wearing golf togs, with
sweaters, added-splashes of color
in ties, socks, And sport clothes.
. . ....-.-
4,
clipped their hair, close, and left
nothing but a line of disdainful,
hair on the upper Up for faie,f
decorations, and are wearing soft
collars to their shirts and soft '
hats for their heads. ' v
Style' life has been a deal
more simple for the men than
for the boor woman. Iter's is
the complicated Jot . In life it
seems. ? What the future-will be
-no one but a pessimist would
dare vesture to guess, j -
' "V. -.-.
, T7nt; mrUty CtIm Stsdle.
fX TOU JtECOGNIZK ANT 0 THE
UfiQO ACRES
IN SEED FLAX
Pioneer oil Company Active
Here in 1875; Fibre
- Flax was Talked
"Fourteen - thousand aclrea' of
flax are sowed in Oregon the pres
ent year, mostly for seed to manu.
facture into oil, and the greater
part of it to be shipped to Califor
nia mills. The' Pioneer Oil company
of Salem has1 a contract for supply
ins the California company, and
the same contract limit its own
production.
"Raising;, flag for fiber is creat
ing some interest, and experienced
parties from near Troy, New York,
have lately come here to develop
the business, if possible. They con
sider this, so far as they can now
judge, the very best flax growing
country they know 'of anywhere,
and have taken a contract to work
up one hundred acres of Riga flax
raised for fiber by farmers near
Jefferson, This will give them ex
perience to judge by, and will prob
ably lead to establishing- here fac
tories for manufacture of shoe
thread, twine and rope, which can
be made an extensive business.
This flax is now ready to pull 'and
stands from three to four and a
half feet high, averaging three
and a half at least.
"Fruit drying: companies are or
ganising in different parts' of this
valley." Correspondence of S. A.
Clarke, June 7, 1876. .
GOOD COMPOSER LOST
"J. B. Horner has composed
a piece of raueJc, Eome tire age
be sent it to a musical friend ef
his for , correction, and yesterday
veeeived It In complete' form.
The title of it Is "Falem Quick
Step", and its pleasant strains
Indicate, a first class effort of
this young man."-Statesman,
Jan. zf. 1884,
BUSINESS IN BUGGIES
"Carload - of Bugglcm Laxt
Friday C. W. Bowie r -eel red a
carload of buggies from the Co
lumbus' Buggy Co. It is the 'first
time that, twenty-six new buggies
were taken at one time into Ra-
lem." I Statesman. Inn
t $$.-,