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About The Oregon statesman. (Salem, Or.) 1916-1980 | View Entire Issue (Sept. 12, 1928)
20 The New Oregon Statesman, Salem, Oregon, Wednesday Morning, September It, 19S8 Men's Fall Clothes Have Distinction Never Seen Before resent Day tailor's Magic Touch Gives Masculine Raiment Charm New to World - of Sartorial Art . jjDolitics, as might be expected in a presidential year, iS not hlTonly filling the news columns this jnonth, but is also in sinuating its vocabulary into the writings of the style re Sorter who is unable to refrain from - speaking of styles as :! icandidates for sartorial f avor?V-no doubt on a platform of TDress Well and Win." . I t - ; rn i- Ti I. - n j j tr ti 4 l tie uvtune-iAreasiea reel : "i One of the style emanations of last spring, that achieved ,n unexpectedly rapid and widespread popularity, and one hat bids fair to continue in high favor during the coming ; eaSon, isthe suit with the double-breasted vest. -' This'may take the form of a vest in the same material ' is the suit, or it may be of Tattersall flannel or plain or pat ' i erried washable fabric, in grays or tans. Where it is part U'f the suit, the coat is usuaHy a two-button model with peak 1 1 " Vine. Piece Ri'ritx ' : 'In some quarters, an effort is being made to pust a five ilece suit, in line with the color ensemble idea. In this an ! xtra pair of trousers of the same material as the regular .air, but in a striped pattern, and a double-breasted vest to ?! roto make up the quintet. D ' "..' Two-Button StUt Favored I JU though in many parts of the country the ascendancy i f the three-r.utton single-breasted model seems secure the two-button ndel, with either peak or narrow notch lapels, is coming inoo increasing favor. This is particularly true in he East Its influence is seen, too, in the fact that many of he three-button suits are designed to be worn with the top iuttoh unbuttoned, the front draping softly to the second button. The double-breasted. suit, of course, still has its army of loyal adherents, and it is even making its way into the sac- osant field of evening dress, trough the latter is still pre- mpted by the single-breasted notch or peak lapel dinner acket and the increasingly popular full-dress or tail coat. Tendency to Closer Lines In all models, there i3 a well-defined tendency to more itted lines in the coats, a dressier effect than was achiev-! Lblejvith the loose, loungy lines of the style made popular by the undergraduate. And coats are on the way to becom- ng slightly longer. With the tendency to a more form-fitting style, wor- teds and other comparatively smooth-finished fabrics will have the call, with cassimeres, twists and cheviot-worsteds kharing popular favor. T" t Color Continues Importa.7tt J As in almost everything else, from cameras and type- leans will be retained. The bell was cast In West Troy, N. Y in 1849 and was presented to eGneral Zachary Taylor, pres ident of the United States. His granddaughters gave it to the'ejiurch in 1887. "A spiritual census taken by the Reverend Father Albert Biever, S. J., pastor of the church, revealed that an average of 5,000 Catholics and Protestants pass, through its portals daily. Baptisms iiave been administered daring jts years of service to 22,000 persons, including 600 slaves. . Footwear Needs for Very Rang of Men Little rasnion Entire List of Masculine Shoe Styles Might Well be Confined to Some Half . Dozen Models lyvriters to bathroom fixtures, color continues to be of great I Importance in the field of men's wear. Among the new colors likely to be seen this fall in men's suits are Burgundy, garnet, and plum shades, reddish rowns, gray-greens, off-shades of blue, copper, and of mircoi troriAiia chonna aF rrfov f rrm f Ivt AtH onH clofA -4r 1 fighter tones, as well as tans. I I f The general tendency' appears to be to neater patterns, r vith stripes for example becoming finer and somewhat en- I ivehed by the introduction of threads of silk. 1 1 The Trench Coat t I The trench coat, or aviator coat as it is sometimes railed, is one of the latest aspirants for sartorial honors. It f, s a combination raincoat and topcoat of gabardine or drill, ! diower-proofed or interlined with rubberized material. This s one of the indications that point to a revival of the gab i krdine coat. ! 1 Another member of the topcoat clan that promises to 3e in much demand is the camel's hair coat and other coats j, )f that type. It is particularly popular among Eastern uni j 'ersity men. Some are in the double-breasted polo style, j'jthers single-breasted, with either raglan or set-in shoul- aers. ; .The majority of men, however, will continue their al egiance to the showerproofed topcoat of tweed. Shetland j lomespun, or covert, in the plain box of raglan model, single vr double breasted. New Fleeces for Overcoats ; jl 5 Among overcoat fabrics, the fleeces or soft-finished woolens appear to be staging a comeback. These are not of I $ the lead-heavy sort sJ popular before the general adoption of the closed car. They are finer and more on the order of the fthe warmth-without-weight type of woolens, rich in appear j-ance and comfortable in wear. t Uoucles and other curly cloths, Dlaid-backs. through- anti-through weaves, and smooth-finished fabrics of other : fcypes will continue in demand. Present indications point to blues, browns, grays, and the darker tans as the favored col orsy with ulsters, box coats, and Chesterfields as the models I v: ' ffl ew Building Will be Built Replacing Old Jesuit Church fNE place where the style makers have little effect is in the matters of footwear for the well-dressed man, since styles follow demand and demand for new touches in shoes for men are very mild. The entire range of men's footwear styles might be confined to a dozen models, in spite of the fact that women s styles run through more than a hundred models. ; Starting from the Picadilly toe and running to the bal loon last, the entire gamut of styles for men is encompassed. English Lasts The English last had its day and sway. It was a great seller in the-shoe -stores last spring, but now there. is a ten dency to swing-back to the balloon toe again. Man demands comfort as a general thin gr first, then considershis foot wear from a style jingle. I This is the sort of footwear style that has struck the popular fancy among old. middle aged and the younger man i-and is recognized as staple as the Chesterfield is in the overcoat family or athletic underwear for summer wear. I As for leathers calfskins will get the biggest call. Then tjhere will be a variety of grain leathers, featuring the Nor wegian, Scotch and embossed. . Of course, there will be kid skins for the man whose tender feet will not permit-shim to wear the heavier leathers. ' Use of Regular Eyelets Some of the novelties will come in the stitching and per forations. Another interesting change will be the use of reg ular eyelets in the blucher lasts, confining the flase eyelet to the bal type of shoes. Oxfords, as in several seasons back, will predominate throughout the fall and winter months, but, of course, there will be a showing of high shoes for tne man who can't see the low ones from a health point of view. N j As for colors there is considerable propaganda underway for the wearing of blacks and tans on fifty-fifty basis. Shoe manufacturers, as well as merchants are trying to force the issue the wearing of tan shoes during the day and black shoes at night. From a Health View The change of footwear twice a day is regarded as im portant when one considers his health, say these makers and sellers. While there is an attempt to get an equal division between the blacks and tans, it appears that early sales in dicate a sixty-forty choice with the blacks being favored. Plain or tipped toes will be shown in Oxfords for informal wear. Dull leathers will be more prominent than heretofore. The lasts will be confined to the medium and brogue types. Patent leather lightweights, with plain toe and shapely heel will be the thing for formal wear. 1 Slit Skirts W01 Be Worn This FaD PARIS. Sept. 11. (AP) Slit skirtg, echo of bobble skirt days, are to be found by tbe score in rthe fall fashionable showings. Some of the slits extend far above the knee, and sfmetimes there is more than one slit to a skirt. . The purpose of the slits is ex plained as two fold: they leave room to move with freedom in an otherwise straight, tight skirt, and they make Jseudo panels which enhance the beauty of the dress. Usually the slit occur in tbe foundation skirt of dresses with, chiffon, lace or other sheer oversklrts. nun d E Br S UB WELLINGTON. N. Z., Sept. 11. L (Tuesday) (AP) C a p t a i n Kingsferd and two companions in the plane "Southern Cross" 'today successfully completed a flight from Sidney New South Wales. They took off yesterday evening at 5:30 and reached Wellington at 7:20 this morning. With Kings- ford -Smith were Charles P, Ulm and navigator Litchfield. A pur pose of the flight was to establish and New-Zealand. The actual landing of the South ern Cross was made at :20 a. m. at the Wigram aerodrome near Christ church. - ... Klngsford-Smith and Ulm, with two Americans acting as navigator and radio operator, made tbe flight from San Francisco, Calif., to Sydney in ttire hops, the Americans then r returned nome. The Australians later- maae a flight with Intermediate stops u Melbourne and a non-stop return flight to Sydney. One way to dodge undesirable publicity if one is arrested In Sa lem is to give an assumed name and residence and pay a small fine. At Independence lSDuineu. vvvi. INDEPENDENCE, Ore., Sep? 11. The hop dryer at the Clifto m J a AAmnfAtAlT Hoi Xmyy jet w --" troyed by . firtr Sunday morning. The kilns were filled to capa city with hops in tne process c drying and the nops inai nu Dee- dried ana sioreo m 3 were also destroyed. Fortunately umj u -" crop lad been harvested. ' Toe. ion w - ance;- m .Aricient New Orleans liandmark Will Become Thing ' of Past; Design First Drawn Up by :S John .Cambiaso In 1847 NEW ORLEANS, La., Sept. 10. (AP) A landmark of three-quarters of a century; the Jesuits church of the i Immaculate Conception, a mecca for tourists, is to be re placed by a new building. r ?sThe church was designed by Father John Cambiaso in 1847 and was opened for worship a decade later in Baronne street iust off Canal street. Erected on the alluvial soil of f New Orleans, it failed to stand the strain of increasing age, and . when its walls began to crumble authorities decided to rebuild it. The new-church will combine all the beauty , of the Moorish and Gothic architecture of the present struc ture and save for a slight enlargement will follow every de tail of the old building. . I . XA11 the beauties of the old church will be restored in the new, including the mammoth organ which stands in the rear gallery, considered one of the largest and finest in struments of its kind in the United States. - Among the priceless furnishings to be restored is j the statue of tbe Virgin Mary which rests high above the far moos altar. It is fashioned of stainless marble, the work of 1 1 Denis Foyatier, a French sculptor. This statue was carved jf of Queen Amelie, wife of King Louis Phillippe of France, for the royal chapel in Paris. When the monarch was exiled, ; j the statue found its way to"New Orleans and was purchased I by: the Jesuit fathers. With it will survive the niche of gol- den stars and glittering lillies in which the statue stands, j .Tho ' bronze statue of St. Peter, seated on a marble throne at the main entrance, an exact copy of the statue J which stands heneath the dome of St Peters cathedral in Rome, will remain at its position. This statue is said to be a 1 work of the sixth century. ! ! The an gel us bell which sends 1X11 rj zuuuea ueiuua vue baj x.nx era vx uunuwwu new w HS OT M FRANK Ml! LER WED A good many persona-who. have not voted for two years and have moved in the meanwhile will be barred from voting in November unless they register beforce Octo ber 6. M Today in Dress fei 3? vSH I Are designed to give freedom of action. When you step into V uLf jt 1 Rottle's Footwear you step out with a sense of well-being inspired - VM Uti I y e knowledge that you are correctly dressed. No matter how iXSsSif u i. "3 1 1 hard a pair of feet you have to fit we can fit you comfortably at lfJ 3M & Kt kj 1 a reasonable investment that will pay you greater returns. VVIW ftMMV HI I Footwear for the boys and girls who are beginning at schools or 1111 PrF !lI b 1 finishing up or for those who are out taking up their share of cW rS1u7 d.uties n this great age of ours, can be assured of being properly f jg 5 Walk-Over and Cantelover Footwear jjjJ " jf Silverton. Ore., Sept. 11. I (Special) The wedding of Miss Annis Porter, daughter of Mrs. A. II. Hires, and Francis Miller was solemnised Sunday morning at 10 o clock at the Mire's home. About twenty-five relatives and friends were present at the luncheon, served at noon. Miss Venita Ram sey attended the bride as maid of honor, and Neal Verbeck was best man. Alter a sort trip, the young couple will be at home to their friends on their farm near Victor Point. Mr. and Mrs. I. O. Ilarvey and Mr. and Mrs. Owen Harvey en joyed a four day motor trip through eastern Oregon, return ing home through the McKenxie pass. Mrs. Harvor Brandvold and children, Edna and Carol, plan to leave Silverton on Tuesday - for Dalton, Minn., their home. Mr. Brandvold was called to Minne sota in June by the death of his father, while the two older daugh. ters left Silverton in August, to be with their father. Mr. and Mrs. H. E. Steen re turned to their home on Saturday from a extended "visit with rela tives and friends in Brookings, S. D. On their return they visited in Minneapolis, Ed berg,. Alberta, and Kent, Wash. After spending several weeks with his father, Ole Steen, Albert Steen and family left Silverton for Faith, S. D.. on Monday. Dur ing his visit here, his brother, Arnold, of Alberta, was also in Silverton, making a reunion of the brothers, after a separation of eighteen years. v Catherine Gaylord returned on Saturday from a week's vacation trip with her parents, Mr. and Mrs. Clark B. Gaylord of Salem. Miss Alpha Pederson. of the Sil ver Falls mliy office, left Silver ton on Saturday for a two weeks' vacation. Henry E. Davis, contractor on the new wing of the Eugene Field school building, completed all work, and with his son Harold, left on Satrday for their home In Portland. During their work here, they stayed with Mr. Davis' par ents. Mr. and Mrs. TV J. Davis, on Lewis street. 10,000 Picking Hops This Year In Polk County INDEPENDENCE, Ore., Sept. 11. (Special) Hop picking In this vicinity Is progressing better than usual das to favorable weather conditions. - ApproxlmateIy-10.000 pickers are working In the yards. Over 4000 persons visited the city Sat urday evening and the police re in It..,- 1..-V1. X. -.1 MM.11 fH7r Wv nine uivro . IfUBUH its peal from , a sniaii 3, the than in form er years. TV ' lei m Ifall sunlit sua the cloth the color. the model a sturdy, smooth finished for, mill finished worsted. a quiet hue-oxford grey, cop per brown, with perhaps a neat shadow stripe or faint geomet- rical pattern the designer the price with a trimmer waist, broader, more athletic shoulder adef inite trend toward greater for mality this season. Society Brand or Hickey-Free-man of course, (both of these i fine brands in one store) as unusual as Eddie Peabody and Eddie Gantbr on the sama.bill the place paradoxically enough but true we are quoting prices lower 'v this year than ever' before you can find just whatflr want at a price hot on speakS.S' ing terms with extravagance :h " that s not hard to guess -A .5 ,