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About The Oregon statesman. (Salem, Or.) 1916-1980 | View Entire Issue (Sept. 12, 1928)
The New Oregon Statesman, Salem, Oregon, Wednesday Morning, September It, 19S8
Men's Fall Clothes
resent Day tailor's Magic Touch Gives Masculine
Raiment Charm New to World
- of Sartorial Art .
jjDolitics, as might be expected in a presidential year, iS not
hlTonly filling the news columns this jnonth, but is also in
sinuating its vocabulary into the writings of the style re
Sorter who is unable to refrain from - speaking of styles as
:! icandidates for sartorial f avor?V-no doubt on a platform of
TDress Well and Win." .
I t - ; rn i- Ti I. - n j j tr
ti 4 l tie uvtune-iAreasiea reel
: "i One of the style emanations of last spring, that achieved
,n unexpectedly rapid and widespread popularity, and one
hat bids fair to continue in high favor during the coming
; eaSon, isthe suit with the double-breasted vest.
-' This'may take the form of a vest in the same material
' is the suit, or it may be of Tattersall flannel or plain or pat
' i erried washable fabric, in grays or tans. Where it is part
U'f the suit, the coat is usuaHy a two-button model with peak
1 1 " Vine. Piece Ri'ritx '
: 'In some quarters, an effort is being made to pust a five
ilece suit, in line with the color ensemble idea. In this an
! xtra pair of trousers of the same material as the regular
.air, but in a striped pattern, and a double-breasted vest to
?! roto make up the quintet.
D ' "..' Two-Button StUt Favored
I JU though in many parts of the country the ascendancy
i f the three-r.utton single-breasted model seems secure the
two-button ndel, with either peak or narrow notch lapels,
is coming inoo increasing favor. This is particularly true in
he East Its influence is seen, too, in the fact that many of
he three-button suits are designed to be worn with the top
iuttoh unbuttoned, the front draping softly to the second
The double-breasted. suit, of course, still has its army of
loyal adherents, and it is even making its way into the sac-
osant field of evening dress, trough the latter is still pre-
mpted by the single-breasted notch or peak lapel dinner
acket and the increasingly popular full-dress or tail coat.
Tendency to Closer Lines
In all models, there i3 a well-defined tendency to more
itted lines in the coats, a dressier effect than was achiev-!
Lblejvith the loose, loungy lines of the style made popular
by the undergraduate. And coats are on the way to becom-
ng slightly longer.
With the tendency to a more form-fitting style, wor-
teds and other comparatively smooth-finished fabrics will
have the call, with cassimeres, twists and cheviot-worsteds
kharing popular favor. T" t
Color Continues Importa.7tt
J As in almost everything else, from cameras and type-
leans will be retained. The bell was cast In West Troy, N. Y
in 1849 and was presented to eGneral Zachary Taylor, pres
ident of the United States. His granddaughters gave it to
the'ejiurch in 1887.
"A spiritual census taken by the Reverend Father Albert
Biever, S. J., pastor of the church, revealed that an average
of 5,000 Catholics and Protestants pass, through its portals
daily. Baptisms iiave been administered daring jts years of
service to 22,000 persons, including 600 slaves. .
Entire List of Masculine Shoe Styles Might Well be
Confined to Some Half .
lyvriters to bathroom fixtures, color continues to be of great
I Importance in the field of men's wear.
Among the new colors likely to be seen this fall in men's
suits are Burgundy, garnet, and plum shades, reddish
rowns, gray-greens, off-shades of blue, copper, and of
mircoi troriAiia chonna aF rrfov f rrm f Ivt AtH onH clofA -4r
1 fighter tones, as well as tans. I
I f The general tendency' appears to be to neater patterns,
r vith stripes for example becoming finer and somewhat en-
I ivehed by the introduction of threads of silk.
1 1 The Trench Coat
t I The trench coat, or aviator coat as it is sometimes
railed, is one of the latest aspirants for sartorial honors. It
f, s a combination raincoat and topcoat of gabardine or drill,
! diower-proofed or interlined with rubberized material. This
s one of the indications that point to a revival of the gab
i krdine coat.
! 1 Another member of the topcoat clan that promises to
3e in much demand is the camel's hair coat and other coats
j, )f that type. It is particularly popular among Eastern uni
j 'ersity men. Some are in the double-breasted polo style,
j'jthers single-breasted, with either raglan or set-in shoul-
; .The majority of men, however, will continue their al
egiance to the showerproofed topcoat of tweed. Shetland
j lomespun, or covert, in the plain box of raglan model, single
vr double breasted.
New Fleeces for Overcoats
; jl 5 Among overcoat fabrics, the fleeces or soft-finished
woolens appear to be staging a comeback. These are not of
I $ the lead-heavy sort sJ popular before the general adoption of
the closed car. They are finer and more on the order of the
fthe warmth-without-weight type of woolens, rich in appear
j-ance and comfortable in wear.
t Uoucles and other curly cloths, Dlaid-backs. through-
anti-through weaves, and smooth-finished fabrics of other
: fcypes will continue in demand. Present indications point to
blues, browns, grays, and the darker tans as the favored col
orsy with ulsters, box coats, and Chesterfields as the models
I v: ' ffl
ew Building Will
be Built Replacing
Old Jesuit Church
fNE place where the style makers have little effect is in
the matters of footwear for the well-dressed man, since
styles follow demand and demand for new touches in shoes
for men are very mild. The entire range of men's footwear
styles might be confined to a dozen models, in spite of the fact
that women s styles run through more than a hundred
Starting from the Picadilly toe and running to the bal
loon last, the entire gamut of styles for men is encompassed.
The English last had its day and sway. It was a great
seller in the-shoe -stores last spring, but now there. is a ten
dency to swing-back to the balloon toe again. Man demands
comfort as a general thin gr first, then considershis foot
wear from a style jingle.
I This is the sort of footwear style that has struck the
popular fancy among old. middle aged and the younger man
i-and is recognized as staple as the Chesterfield is in the
overcoat family or athletic underwear for summer wear.
I As for leathers calfskins will get the biggest call. Then
tjhere will be a variety of grain leathers, featuring the Nor
wegian, Scotch and embossed. . Of course, there will be kid
skins for the man whose tender feet will not permit-shim to
wear the heavier leathers. '
Use of Regular Eyelets
Some of the novelties will come in the stitching and per
forations. Another interesting change will be the use of reg
ular eyelets in the blucher lasts, confining the flase eyelet to
the bal type of shoes.
Oxfords, as in several seasons back, will predominate
throughout the fall and winter months, but, of course, there
will be a showing of high shoes for tne man who can't see the
low ones from a health point of view. N j
As for colors there is considerable propaganda underway
for the wearing of blacks and tans on fifty-fifty basis. Shoe
manufacturers, as well as merchants are trying to force the
issue the wearing of tan shoes during the day and black
shoes at night.
From a Health View
The change of footwear twice a day is regarded as im
portant when one considers his health, say these makers
and sellers. While there is an attempt to get an equal division
between the blacks and tans, it appears that early sales in
dicate a sixty-forty choice with the blacks being favored.
Plain or tipped toes will be shown in Oxfords for informal
wear. Dull leathers will be more prominent than heretofore.
The lasts will be confined to the medium and brogue types.
Patent leather lightweights, with plain toe and shapely
heel will be the thing for formal wear. 1
Slit Skirts W01
Be Worn This FaD
PARIS. Sept. 11. (AP) Slit
skirtg, echo of bobble skirt days,
are to be found by tbe score in
rthe fall fashionable showings.
Some of the slits extend far above
the knee, and sfmetimes there is
more than one slit to a skirt.
. The purpose of the slits is ex
plained as two fold: they leave
room to move with freedom in an
otherwise straight, tight skirt,
and they make Jseudo panels
which enhance the beauty of the
dress. Usually the slit occur in
tbe foundation skirt of dresses
with, chiffon, lace or other sheer
Br S UB
WELLINGTON. N. Z., Sept. 11.
L (Tuesday) (AP) C a p t a i n
Kingsferd and two companions in
the plane "Southern Cross" 'today
successfully completed a flight
from Sidney New South Wales.
They took off yesterday evening
at 5:30 and reached Wellington
at 7:20 this morning. With Kings-
ford -Smith were Charles P, Ulm
and navigator Litchfield. A pur
pose of the flight was to establish
The actual landing of the South
ern Cross was made at :20 a. m.
at the Wigram aerodrome near
Christ church. - ...
Klngsford-Smith and Ulm, with
two Americans acting as navigator
and radio operator, made tbe
flight from San Francisco, Calif.,
to Sydney in ttire hops, the
Americans then r returned nome.
The Australians later- maae a
flight with Intermediate stops u
Melbourne and a non-stop return
flight to Sydney.
One way to dodge undesirable
publicity if one is arrested In Sa
lem is to give an assumed name
and residence and pay a small fine.
INDEPENDENCE, Ore., Sep?
11. The hop dryer at the Clifto
m J a AAmnfAtAlT Hoi
Xmyy jet w --"
troyed by . firtr Sunday morning.
The kilns were filled to capa
city with hops in tne process c
drying and the nops inai nu Dee-
dried ana sioreo m 3
were also destroyed.
Fortunately umj u -"
crop lad been harvested.
' Toe. ion w -
.Aricient New Orleans liandmark Will Become Thing
' of Past; Design First Drawn Up by
:S John .Cambiaso In 1847
NEW ORLEANS, La., Sept. 10. (AP) A landmark
of three-quarters of a century; the Jesuits church of the
i Immaculate Conception, a mecca for tourists, is to be re
placed by a new building.
r ?sThe church was designed by Father John Cambiaso in
1847 and was opened for worship a decade later in Baronne
street iust off Canal street. Erected on the alluvial soil of
f New Orleans, it failed to stand the strain of increasing age,
and . when its walls began to crumble authorities decided to
rebuild it. The new-church will combine all the beauty , of
the Moorish and Gothic architecture of the present struc
ture and save for a slight enlargement will follow every de
tail of the old building. . I .
XA11 the beauties of the old church will be restored in
the new, including the mammoth organ which stands in the
rear gallery, considered one of the largest and finest in
struments of its kind in the United States.
- Among the priceless furnishings to be restored is j the
statue of tbe Virgin Mary which rests high above the far
moos altar. It is fashioned of stainless marble, the work of
1 1 Denis Foyatier, a French sculptor. This statue was carved
jf of Queen Amelie, wife of King Louis Phillippe of France,
for the royal chapel in Paris. When the monarch was exiled,
; j the statue found its way to"New Orleans and was purchased
I by: the Jesuit fathers. With it will survive the niche of gol-
den stars and glittering lillies in which the statue stands,
j .Tho ' bronze statue of St. Peter, seated on a marble
throne at the main entrance, an exact copy of the statue
J which stands heneath the dome of St Peters cathedral in
Rome, will remain at its position. This statue is said to be a
1 work of the sixth century.
! ! The an gel us bell which sends
1X11 rj zuuuea ueiuua vue baj x.nx era vx uunuwwu new w
FRANK Ml! LER WED
A good many persona-who. have
not voted for two years and have
moved in the meanwhile will be
barred from voting in November
unless they register beforce Octo
M Today in Dress fei
3? vSH I Are designed to give freedom of action. When you step into V uLf jt
1 Rottle's Footwear you step out with a sense of well-being inspired - VM Uti
I y e knowledge that you are correctly dressed. No matter how iXSsSif u i.
"3 1 1 hard a pair of feet you have to fit we can fit you comfortably at lfJ 3M & Kt
kj 1 a reasonable investment that will pay you greater returns. VVIW ftMMV
HI I Footwear for the boys and girls who are beginning at schools or 1111 PrF !lI
b 1 finishing up or for those who are out taking up their share of cW rS1u7
d.uties n this great age of ours, can be assured of being properly f jg
5 Walk-Over and Cantelover Footwear jjjJ " jf
Silverton. Ore., Sept. 11. I
(Special) The wedding of Miss
Annis Porter, daughter of Mrs. A.
II. Hires, and Francis Miller was
solemnised Sunday morning at 10
o clock at the Mire's home. About
twenty-five relatives and friends
were present at the luncheon,
served at noon. Miss Venita Ram
sey attended the bride as maid of
honor, and Neal Verbeck was best
man. Alter a sort trip, the young
couple will be at home to their
friends on their farm near Victor
Mr. and Mrs. I. O. Ilarvey and
Mr. and Mrs. Owen Harvey en
joyed a four day motor trip
through eastern Oregon, return
ing home through the McKenxie
Mrs. Harvor Brandvold and
children, Edna and Carol, plan to
leave Silverton on Tuesday - for
Dalton, Minn., their home. Mr.
Brandvold was called to Minne
sota in June by the death of his
father, while the two older daugh.
ters left Silverton in August, to
be with their father.
Mr. and Mrs. H. E. Steen re
turned to their home on Saturday
from a extended "visit with rela
tives and friends in Brookings,
S. D. On their return they visited
in Minneapolis, Ed berg,. Alberta,
and Kent, Wash.
After spending several weeks
with his father, Ole Steen, Albert
Steen and family left Silverton
for Faith, S. D.. on Monday. Dur
ing his visit here, his brother,
Arnold, of Alberta, was also in
Silverton, making a reunion of
the brothers, after a separation of
eighteen years. v
Catherine Gaylord returned on
Saturday from a week's vacation
trip with her parents, Mr. and
Mrs. Clark B. Gaylord of Salem.
Miss Alpha Pederson. of the Sil
ver Falls mliy office, left Silver
ton on Saturday for a two weeks'
Henry E. Davis, contractor on
the new wing of the Eugene Field
school building, completed all
work, and with his son Harold,
left on Satrday for their home In
Portland. During their work here,
they stayed with Mr. Davis' par
ents. Mr. and Mrs. TV J. Davis, on
Hops This Year
In Polk County
INDEPENDENCE, Ore., Sept.
11. (Special) Hop picking In
this vicinity Is progressing better
than usual das to favorable
weather conditions. -
are working In the yards. Over
4000 persons visited the city Sat
urday evening and the police re
X. -.1 MM.11 fH7r Wv nine uivro . IfUBUH
its peal from , a sniaii 3, the than in form
a sturdy, smooth finished for,
mill finished worsted.
a quiet hue-oxford grey, cop
per brown, with perhaps a neat
shadow stripe or faint geomet-
with a trimmer waist, broader,
more athletic shoulder adef
inite trend toward greater for
mality this season.
Society Brand or Hickey-Free-man
of course, (both of these i
fine brands in one store) as
unusual as Eddie Peabody and
Eddie Gantbr on the sama.bill
paradoxically enough but true
we are quoting prices lower 'v
this year than ever' before
you can find just whatflr
want at a price hot on speakS.S'
ing terms with extravagance :h "
that s not hard to guess -A .5 ,