The Oregon statesman. (Salem, Or.) 1916-1980, December 18, 1927, Page 16, Image 16

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X7 UiilULOi.U.ii.
Many Ideals of Newness
; Must Not Be Forgotten
! In General Work
Sunlight Tints for Lamp Shades
Best for Eyes and Furnishings
, By Haael Reavls
1 ' t Aaaodated Pmi Faihtoa Editor)
"PARIS (AP) There are large
possibilities for successful .make-j
over of old clothes In the latest
styles of "Paris. . v
- One piece dreasses ,witb . con
trasting tops and skirts open the
way to an almost' endless vista -of
new clothes for old. There are in
dlcations ' that spring will see an
even " greater application of ' con
trasting material in the chic Par
ts salons. Try as they' would the
style creators could not root the
two piece idea from women's fa
Tor, They hare had. to compromise
0b the two-piece effect that Is a
one-piece costume. T ;V
With this basic, .principle to go
brt.and latitude in 'thecbmbinatton
pt materials and colors the seam
stress who "makes over", and the
lilne de lafpaix are for once work
ing hand in gloveLast year's
nyits ". can be remodeled to this
year's ensembles and two old
frocks combined to reappear as
one new one..
The three ,, piece ' suit idea for
sports is also a friend to the wom-
fch utilizing old - materials.
turned, and repleated, eklrt, with
the addition of a matching sleeve
less pall-over which can be lnex-
pensively knit at home, and
sweater coat buttoned down the
fj-ont, cardigan style, is exactly In
accord with Parisian sport styles
OF tne moment. ,
; a-ansian laeais of newness
which the make-over artist ouzht
nbt to forget are the square, col-
laness neck line, the narrow Math
ft belt with fancy buckle and
sleeves with narrow cuffs without
father at the wrist.
Customers of Rue de Palx
c Divided Among Three
Y Classes of Dieters
' By Hazel Re vis
f akis (AP) When i flared
skirts mad raised -waistlines were
launched not so long ago thous
ands of dutifully 'dieting women
went forth rejoicing and bought
themselves chocolates by way of
eeie oration. r -
iwiy me same women are
back at their contest with the cal
-1. a .
wies, inuaueraj , at the mere
mention of macaroni, lauding lem
on juice before breakfast ' and
reading the bathroom scales like
.. , best seller. For them Paris
promises no let-up.
. . i - - V - . ' : '
3 what is going on behind the
closed door where spring fash-
Ions are being made very few per
sons know. Whispers that get
about, however, give no hint of
change from slender silhouettes,
youthful flatness and general lack
of what nsed to be called "shape.
: The higher waistlines climb,
and there are rumors that spring
will see them almost established
at their old normal position, the
more essential slenderness be
. comes. Several Important dress
ef eators, among' them Worth and
Lucien Lelong, stick doggedly to
the straight silhouette, which re
quires the nth degree' of. slimness.
.'Even the staunches! advocates oi
flar!ng skirts insist that they ac
centnate the youth and slender
ness of the wearer, j
The fashionable customers- of
the Rue de la Palx dress shops are
divided among three classes- of
dieters, those who know they
ought to diet, those who are diet
ins and those who are about to
dfeL - The most- successful aales
women are those , who can pre
scribe workable diets with, as
much authority as they advise be
coming styles. Next to "style the
chief topic of conversation Is diet.
- -As a result of this campaign tor
thinness corsetxy is again an Im
portent field and one, that style
experts take Tory seriously. One
house refuses to fit certain models
t iU clients until they have pro-
Tided themselves with i a special
type of corset considered a first
aid In glTing that "schoolgirl' Hf-
-n"-- - : ::--;;vfv
Plaid Silk Ties Mew ;
Features On Dresses
ilPARIS (AP) Extensive use
oi Jersey is made In the last col
lection shown by Premet, indicat
ing to Paris style followers that
springtime Is not apt to see a let
up on the popular knitted fabric
t ' Plaid silk ties, knotted " sailor
fashion, are new features of sev
eral Premet Jersey dresses. Some
short capes of Jersey are also
shown, designed to be wrapped
around so that they resemble short
Jackets. . ... ;
in m iifrmm . . a ij h i;
IIIUV HEM lie 'AVfeSfl- ill 1 I f A4 ' I f III I
: tor iavHtH .yxmv.v.k&t i
mi urn & n uh i vv. a a y ttsi i
J ' " - iwniiMnawzl'B
Claim Made That Light
Cakes Cannot Be Made
In Higher Altitudes
. By Hilda Hnnt
The beauty and comfort of a
living room depends, not so much'
on the actual style of furniture,
as It does on the combination of
that style with its proper grouping
in relation to light. If you have
chosen your house or apartment
with care, you naturally paid par
ticular atention to the location ofJ
the windows. North light is of
course the whitest, but climatic
conditions determine the direction
the house should face for comfort
botn inwinter and summer. '
Light, and plenty of it., is ab
solutely necessary for your good
health and spirits. This applies
doubly to lamps which must take
the sun's place when day is done.
At night the family life naturallv
centers in the living room, and no
matter how beautiful your furn
ishings are in the daytime, it is at
night that they must stand the
most severe test.
What could be more comfort
able for the long winter evenings
than an easy chair drawn up by
the rireside, with "a good book.
Even hte necessary mending
would go faster in such suround
mgs. The chair in the sketch
is a cony of the earlv American
wing variety, with a reversible
down cushion. The buterfly table
ts of maple and the lamp, an old
fashioned oil s "burner" that has
been converted to electricity. A
pleated parchment shade of two
tones of gold Insures the proper
quality and quantity of light. Fol
lowing out the colonial idea, the
rugs are rag, whllethe divan andtures with shields is the nmv
splning wheel furnish the same.rect one. accordin to I .en j. u.
Dressmakers' Doors Tight
- Shut On Hard Working
Designers In Paris
By Hazel Reavts
(AainHatad Pr, Faahloa Editor)
BAR IS (AP) Parisian dress
makers view with some alarm and
not a little suspicion the amalga
matlon of long established creat
ive dressmaking housees in .the
Rue de la Palx. Doeulllet and
Doucet, both old houses with aris
tocratic nd conservative clien
teles, were recently combined un
der Joint management of the Au-
bert group.
There Is a rumor that another
big Rue de la Paix firm is soon to
be purchased by the same group.
They already control the "houses of
Polret and Agnes ani several
smaller houses.
Style creating has heretofore
been a highly individualized busi
ness in Paris, each dressmaker,
jealous of his independence. The
creation of a collection is still
surrounded with as much mystery ,
and secrecy se the mobilization of
Mexican revolutionary force. -If
this ' day-bef ore-Christmas
suspense is removed ana nau a
dozen houses produce collections
agreeing In choice of line, fabric
and color the prestige of present-
day dictators with a single estab
lishment may be threatened.. At
east so the wist ones of the Hue
de la Palx fear.
Although such a dsy may be
coming. It has not yet arrived.
Dressmakers, doors are at present
tight shut on hard working design
era tolling day and night over the
styles of spring. ' which will be
launched early In January. There
is no Indication that houses are to
change Immediately, or even very
soon, their system of a stylo for
every famous name In the Rue de
la Paix and the Champs Elysees,
or that : mass production Is to
smother originality. .
air of antiquity,
Light like Sulight
As I emphasized in my last ar
ticle, light must be as near like
sunlight as possible in order to
meet the demands of our eyes.
The science of optometry has
worked out the limitations of the
human eyes and they find that
need for glasses is due, for the
most part, to careless 'treatment
of lights.
.'I They have determined that eyes
were' constructed to see objects
best at about forty feet. With
our present working and living
conditions, almost all obpects with
which we work are within three
feet or less. So, with this stu
pendous adjustment our eyes must
necessarily make. It Is wise to
consider how best to avoid strain.
Lights either help or hinder, and
to make seeing easier, be sure that
the lamps are properly shaded
with non-irltating colors, and that
the glare of a bulb never comes in
direct contact with the eye. -
Wall Fixtures . j
The treatment of the wall fix
er, president of the American Op
tometrlc Association. No matter
how picturesque the unshaded
candelabra is, he says, it should
always be shielded, if you value
your eyesight. Parchment or silk
shields serve two purposes, in that
they may carry out your color
scheme as.-well as reflect against
the wal, thins giving indirect ,U
Inmlnatlon, which is so much to
be desired. Floor lamps are also
approved, provided the standard is
not so tall that the person sitting
near will be able to see the light
. A tint bf any color Is the best
choice for the inside linings of
lamps, but the various tones of
yellow are by far the best, not
only from the standpoint of being
the easiest on the eyes, but be
cause they bring out the colors in
your furnishings. A dark colored
lamp shade will make the rugs
and hangings lose their true colors
and seem dark and uninteresting,
while gold will bring oat the deli
cate shadings which are easily
cast into mediocrity at night. 1
Men in mountainous countries
who have complained for years
about soggy cakes and solid bis
cults should move to lower levels
if they want to enjoy the whole
some pastries their mothers used
to make, .
- Light cakes simply cannot be
made j, in the' high' altitudes and
this tact is Just now being discov
ered, according to Miss Ingra M
K- Atllsotf, professor of home
economics in the State Agricultur
al College of Colorado, which has
Just completed a number of ex
periments to eliminate the culin
ary conflict between women and
their husbands in mountain
"Anyone who has tried baking
butter cakes in mountainous re
gions after recipes originating in
New York, for Instance, knows the
sad results," Professor Allison
says in the forthcoming Woman's
Home companion. "Due to atmos
pheric pressure loaves or layers
turn out hopelessly soggy and flat.
The use of less sugar, butter and
baking powder has helped some,
but there has never been a stan
dardization of methods and pro
portions. "Our experimental school has
attempted to solve the problem
with pressure ovens, but these ore
not practicable in all homes. Ow
ing to the fact, too, that water
boils at the altitude of our labora
tory at 201 degrees, eleven de
grees lower than In New York,
there has been great difficulty In
"In the old days men In this
state sought fame and fortune in
a quest for gold. Now the search
is for more satisfactory living con
ditions and we are trying to reach
these by helping housewives to
make better cakes and overcome
handicaps in general cooking." .
r-fT .,1
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r .v"Vt.' -Aim
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j v.vr Ji
t 2
Her Exact Age
Grandma Holland was a tiny
wisp of a woman who bad been
seventy since she was fifty and
would be seventy until she was
ninety. Woman's Home Compan
By Mmo. Lfisbctii
Little oditles will creep into the
most artistic creations of the
dressmakers art, and these whim
sies may and usually . are in
themselves artistic.
The dress at the left of the il
lustration has an odd and attrac
tive litle notion in the ruffle that
edges the low neck and continues,
diagonally, straight down to the
hemline, in such a manner as to
eliminate the htought of its being
a two-piece frock. . The basque
may be worn separately, however.
The model is form fitting and is
made of transparent velvet In mar
ble design in soft gray and greens.
It is worn by Loretta Young.
A bodice of diamond paillettes,
suggesting a suit of mail. Is the
unusual feature of the dress pic
tured at the right. The skirt is a
series of ruffled tiers of black
tulle, with a train effect at Che
back. It is an evening model
from, Premet.
Latest Hat From Famous
Milliner Always Smart-
est One In Paris
Sons of a
What to Wear and How to Wear It
Gowns Still Built on Straight Silhouette in Spite of Flare Movement
'Are those 'antiques'?" Aunt Em
my sniffed
In disapproval most emphatic.
'I wouldn't have them as a gift
I've hid their doubles In my attic."
"That vase you think's so grand
s and fine
Was Just a pickle-Jar, I know.
That cooky-crock, like one of mine
Cost ten cents, ninety years ago.
Such prices, for such worn old
stuff! -For
antiques, give me a brass
Hooked antique rugs? Not good
I'll take mine new!" Aunt Em
my said. .
They give the
soundest satisfao-
Don't praise a man to the skies
unless you feel that he can stand
the inevitable drop back to earth.
Farm and Fireside.
By Hazel Reavts
PARIS (AP) Th lt v..
from a fa mo
.w.ucr is a.i wart
the smartest ane in th 1,
French fashion followers.
Just now tat hat is a cIo.-m.
ting, brimless toque cut to
close one eyebrow and covsr tha
other and decorated in rather
dizxy fashion with row on row of
wavy painted lines.1 Reboux is
the leader of the new fashi
closely followed by Agnes and half
ion other milliners of famous
Even when the line decoration
is left off of the little hat the
one-eye exposure ts nearly always
an Important feature of its style.
The chic lady of Paris prides her
self on a lop-sided hat, and to car
ry out the idea a few daring ones
wear only one earring. Perhaps
the single earring is for practical
reasons, for often the close fitting
toque dips down so that it covers
one ear. :
A smart Reboux version of that
style is a draped felt which Is
half red and half brown. It gives
the effect Of iwo hat crowns worn
on the sides or tne neaa, over
lapping on top. Reboux puts no
trimming of any kind on the hat.
and she pulls It low over the left
eye, exposing the right eyebrow.
But to. even things up the right
ear is covered and the left ex
Shaved' silk velour is promin-
ently used for some of the newejt
models. Designs are produced'
o this fashion, often in the form
of wavy lines. These silk velour
hats, are most often of black - for
black hats, like black coats, con
tinue to be the smartest shown in
Paris. Small black veils, just
covering the nose, are added to
most small hats.
A man's heroes are the biggest
power In his. education. You ran
tell a man by the heroes he keeps.
American Magazine.
How Achieve Beauty
A' .fortune teller recently told
Bill Barker he was going to lose
his ceart before long. "Can't you
make It . lay, appendix Instead T
soxa of r.i " -
. The TI?T STirMia
Ter get U to run riot when told B!U itipnad. ' eaoala ma
to go work. TlntV a.
By Lacy CUlro
Just to show you how fashion
works a change in our silhouette
without springing it on us too sud
denly, I am showing yon three
examples of evening, gowns 'with
new skirt movements. So much
has been said and wrlten of the
flare, the full skirt and the skirt
lengthening, that we are apt to
get a bit mixed as to Just what Is
meant. Last August, when there
was so much talk of the : flare
Paris was introducing! mention
ed It lxf several of my articles as
the "discreet" flare. This meant
the godet, the slight drape and the
circular front or apron, with now
and then an entirely circular skirt.
not over f alL The waistline was
predicted as ."raised." At once
some of us began to think" of fall
skirts,-, and to bewail the loss of
our straight silhouette. : . j I
None of these things , has hap
pened. Nor has It .happened that
skirts i have , been " perceptibly
lengthened '.'as, the t cry ; longer
skirts" might indicate at the be
ginning of the fall openings. What
has hapened Is that we have added
the slight movement in drape.
godet . and . tier to our skirts, that
the waistline has found Its place
fairly high over the hips, and that
the "longer skirts' confine them
selves to the uneven .hemline
achieved by the drape, godet or
points. Of -course I am speaking
of the new afternoon and evening
mode in the broad sense, not In
cluding the period Interpretations,
like the evening frocks with a
skirt short in the front, dipping
on thesldes and almost trallingln
the back.
I JCew Skirt Movement
The ' three evening gowns pho
tographed Illustrate this new skirt
movement; - The first is a gown,
by Mme. Frances Clyne, of a very
delicate pink chiffon embroidered
in - beads, showing the scalloped
tier-treatment." Note the waist
lifting Idea In , the slight blouse
almost at the natural waist, above
a well defined waistline over, the
style whid depends entirely on
thejhandlinr of the material In a
one-tone effect for Us only orna
mentation, aside from the whine
stone buckle' holding the drape at
the side. This gown Is of mauve
georgette, with an interestingly
intricate drape forming a train at
the side, and a circular apron
drape at the front. This is -the
type of frock that depends upon
its costume Jewelry, as well as Its
design, for embeUishment. : "
A third handling of this new
.irv iaoremwi is snown in an
evening gown by Lelong, at the
right of the photograph. This Is
developed In pink tulle .and crepe
georgette, embroidered with pearls
and stress, r The waistline here is
practically: normal. The tiered
drape at the side gives the uneven
hemline." ' This model Is wearinc
the new crepe evening shoes em
broidered In stress, rseoently in
troduced In Paris. The other mod
els are wearing the very fashion
able, but ;les elaborate trap shoes'
As long as I can love; can laugh
At circumstances and at errors,
I've cut life's troubles right In
half -
And robbed them of their great
est terrors.--
There's always someone close and
" dear,. l
Someone I can be looking after;
in everything I see and hear.
If I look close I can find laugh
And I shall pass all trouble by.
arm, saie, in any kind of
weather, .
As long as Laughter, Love and I
v, wbik aiong the road to
8weet Scented Gifts jise with her own favorite srent.
oi woman s greats i cnarmsi ferrume is a natural accountre
daibntlness, as any maniment to every decollete, but for
hips. T Another gown br this same I of gold , kidskia. Gold kid shoes-
designer. In the center ef the lay-1 by the way. take precedence over
out, shows an Interpretation of the the silrer kid In Paris.
1'wlll-not scrub that wall,"
"ThV years of dirt and dust im
hue. It.
My laziness be on my head
41 100 "ra work. I shall not
oo jt."
But past it, back and forth iach
. aay, - . - : ,r
It Was so shockine:lv unslirhti.
My mind and neries almost gave
-y. .4
Ana I grew sleepless, tossing
At last one morninr I . i
oos: paii and brush and grum
bled "Drat Hi
Hard work? X misht si n
iu ' --
." It's easier than . looking at It."
(Suggested by Mra. a u
iona oabiea? I canTrecommend
them .:'
I don't see why theatork must
They're pink and white and cuddlv
t- mrtA tl.Vl.
But mercy me, they
aoil so
They show the mud from every
And keep their daintiness all a
.... muddle, t
To let them
crawl Is an error
Blonde babies
. practical I
are not
babies show the
strayed off.
Now brunette
-Vdlrt less.
Even when they're
Order them dark, for every day
is her
will tell you. And when yon
come right down to basic. Inescap
able facts, the chief element of
daintiness Is odor.
Any scent there is about a wom
an should bo pleasing to the nos
trils. By that I do not mean it
must be cloylngly sweet. ' Too
much sweetness in a scent Is much
worse. In my opinion, than none
at alL -
-But every woman should rec
ognize that her scent is an Intrin
sic part of her whole ensemble,
an expression' of her personality.
It must be such that when she
comes Into a room a familiar es
sence. is watted In with her.
I am afraid yon will think I am
.wandering afar from my subject,
but one of the main points I want
to bring out in this talk is the
absolute necessity . of i choosing
wisely when you buy perfume or
scented gifts for a friend. - They
are things you cannot choose at
random. If you , give - her . per
fume, choose the one yon. know
she uses, or If you giro her bath
powder, or bath salts or tailet
soap, be sure that it will harmon-
everyday use, there is a subtler
scent, that with which the skin it
self la Impregnated, and which
seems to pervade a woman's
whole physical being. Bath Ul
cum Is. X believe, the prime re
quisite for this subtle beauty aid.
I know of few nicer gifts for
woman than an attractive bowl
filled with exquisitely scented ,
bath talcum and a big puff. Her
again. - th choice of scent ts im
portant. . Never give talcum aa
less it Is of the first grade and
then yon must be sure that Its
odor harmonizes with your
friend's cosmetics,, her toilet coap.
and. bath salts, if she uses them.
" The chte woman often puts lit
tle wads of scented cotton deep
In her fur collar. In the recesses
of a pocket, or In the drawer that!
contains her , handkerchiefs and
"undies." A decorated Rims Jar
of such little scented wads, la
dainty gift.
One of the new features that
makes a charming gift is the tiny
Jar of solid perfume which ran b
carried In a handbag with co dan
ger of spilling.
' Tl
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ri v.
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'the t
1 stt
I Have Said 'mMrBeai
" By Idah McGlone Gibson
lioyalty '
I used to have a friend or. ra
ther, I still have a friend who
used to always end our discussions
by saying. "Well, you see. it is all
mixed up." - .
Sometimes X think my friend is
right, "it is all mixed up." '
"One has to keep one's mind in
a state of flux. We can never set
tie down and harden Into some
iwiuie aecisum that means "thn
ana ao- tor all men lor all time.
it we do, nme times but ef ten w
una we are wrong.., r:;, s -
And all we can say all we ran
decide for ourselves is what seems
ia us the truth todaywhat seems
VV, " to D le best procedure for
today what seems to un in k. it,.
real necessity of today Tomorrow
there may come Into our cona.iA.
neas idea. na viewpoinU which
Will make m think .
ey nuiereni. we will know that
".wiu.u, eoiireiv iiirfmnf i.
v. . . - a
m rtu tact. .
St. PauL perhiDi. u h. .
v voice this constant j
f hang, .In the mind of man when
he said : "When X was a child. I
spage as a child. I end
a child; but when I becsme a man
I put away chlldiah thin
In nothing, nerhan. ,-- .v.
much as In our dernttiA. .v
Tirtnea. : W4 "
SomeUmes when onaTi- .-i
JS the wrong -Idea of ti:
meaning of loyalty..- '
There Is a wonderful sound to
at patriotic outburst which
y country-may eT b;
right but., right or wtoiir, mr
Most ot those who Quote It
such fervor forget the first sen
tence; the desire for one's country
to be right. Today a great manr
citizens reserve to themselves 1M
right to say:' "My country, may
she erer be right, but when ne l
wrong I consider myself most"
loyal in telling her so, and with
drawing my support to br "
backsliding from the true prin
ciples bf right."
Many young people get a wronl
idea of the loyalty in friendship
''.They. stay loyal to people vb
are not worthy, who are dfsloyal
to themselves to everything to
which and everyone to irnomthey
should be loyal. I have beard many
a young person say: "My friend U
mr friend hv virtue onlr of n"
conduct and - commerce with ne
I have no right to inquire into 11
contacts with others.
"What he Is and with whom no
is when he is not with me la sot
of my concern."
These young people bare tnJ
definition Implanted in their plM t
and they are sacrificing them"- '
es to a mistaken and chlnieri j
To be loyal means nothln 6l
first being faithful to the !-
faithful to lawful authority 17
ful to a nrtnctnle. The second
lnlUon Is to be faithful to on .
whom one' owes fidelity.
Memo: loyalty pre-suppo"6
ways the worthiness of th
Ject to whom one alwar
claims allegiance.
. V.
3 c