Ijl'a.sMoinis
.ft
LU
FjffiilBLEII
JAKE MY FDRMS
ldication To - Fact That
Sloping Pleats Will Be.
: Popular This Year
4
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Associated Pitts Fashion . Editor)
By Hazel ItetlYla '
PARIS. (AP) Paris styles
seem to be drifting so far as the
silhouette Is concerned. Even the
wisest fashion seer is ' baffled to
know what the spring trend will
discover. Just at present there Is
a 'silhouette for every figure. . The
oaly difficulty Is to know oneself.
. Just when the trend seems defi
nitely established . for stralghter
lilies and simpler, along, comes an
authority like . Jenny and upsets
reckonings with a pinched in waist
aftd princess line. .i
t To upset Jenny there are Worth
afad Patou and Lucien Lelong. all
sponsoring youthfully straight and
Inconsequential figures. ' " Even
more youthful than, these are
other houses with other, slihou
ettes, mostly fitted waist and flar
ing skirt lines, which "American
women' seem to hare decided they
do not care for.
" No doubt the spring contour lies
somewhere between the two, na
less Paris actually has something
op its sleeved Fuller skirts have
definitely v come - to : stay. The
question la only, how the fulness
Is to be inserted, whether In
straight pleats, or in "circular
Dares.
There is an Indication that slop
ping pleats are to be popular. That
Isja sign of flares, and when skirts
flare waists are almost invariably
nipped in. '.'.v r;-
- Paris seems to be looking : to
evening dresses to lead the way to
new things in street and ! sport
clothes. Added skirt length for
Q things came by war of erening
rocks. . Now the newest tailored
dresses ; are : following their lead.
Ope sees some examples of dresses
which dip In baek, and many tail
ored dresses with flares and cir
cular draperies which ape in wool
th styles of satin. , y!
j By this criterion the styles of
prlng are to be mildly flariny,
somewhat longer and have raised,
id: slightly fitted waistlines.
Host of these characteristics can
be detected tn .the run of Paris
newest 'erening models.
.What to Wear and How to Wear It
. : , N-r Woolens Vie With Velvet.for Popularity
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' :M;H -j , A)
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j y 1
EFFICIEfP UEEDED
IFJ GIRLS' SEWING
Women Warned About
Removing of Make-Up
;No matter how tired they are,
women who dare to neglect re
moTing dust and make-up from
the face and skin before retiring
for the night are guilty of a crim
inal offense against their good
looks, Eileen Bourne, - famous
. beauty writer, warns women, in
an article tn Liberty.
"One of the skin's main Jobs is
to regulate the temperature of the
body," Miss Bourne explains. "To
do this it has to continue resilient
and firm. During the night the
alight moisture which is always
rising to the surface of the body
carries off surface' impurities. -
l"But the skin can help in this
Important work only if it is clean
and healthy. If it is covered with
the dust of the day, plus powder
aad rouge, it is in no condition to
.function,
By Lucy Claire
( Motion Export fov Central Proa od
Xho Stoto a.)
The new woolens this season are
so beautiful they make velvets sit
up and take notice. The very new
est are metallic woolens, sheer and
soft as a Shetland wool veil. Some
are in gold or silver and,, wool
stripes, while others are in an all-;
over weave In which it is hard to
distinguish the metallic from the
woolen threads. The most popu
lar handling is in the new sports
frocks, with the long tunic blouse
over a pleated velvet skirt. The
tunle .is unllned, effecting a trans
parent neck and sleeves, as well
as transparency for the satin or
metallic ! cloth camisole of the
skirt. I feel this will be a favorite
number for the Palm Beach frock,
and will carry over into our north
ern summer; resort wear.
Then there are the semi-transparent
woolens without the metal
effect, now at the apex of the
dress model? Vollle-lalne is par-
icularly good. 'The center photo
graph shows a vollle-lalne model
In chatteau gray with j pipings of
American beauty velvet. ' Note the
one-sided treatment of; the bodice
carried down in a pointed waist
line over a side pleated skirt. The
narrow yoke effect of : the bodice
brings a bit of the American rose
against the face. I like this piping
treatment to relieve the monotony
of a plain one-tone frock.
PeptlllM Patterns
The snake still rules his Eve.
She has taken kindly! to him in
leather and silk, and now he ven
tures into woolens. Flannels of
reptilian pattern are among the
most popular printed novelties of
the season. In the photograph at
the left you will find a striking
ensemble interpreting the reptil
ian woolen tunic blouse over a
pleated cloth skirt, with the vogue
for lining with flannel or kasha
carried out in the three-quarter
ensemble coat.! ; - :
Frequently thesenew soft wool
ens lend themselves to Interpreta
tions of the flare. This is espec
ially true of the new challis,. fol
lowing the small print trend of
the season.- In the model at the
right challis and velvet combine
in a dainty semi-formal frock. The
challis is printed in star flowers'
of emerald green, soft yellow and
gray green scattered on a black
ground. ' The belt and decorative
detail are of emerald green velvet.
Reptile trimmed shoes would be
stunning worn with the reptile and
one-tone cloth ensemble, gunmetal
kid. with the 'gray, frock,; and
black shoes with the challis cos
tume. Felt hats are worn with all
three costumes. There a some-;
thing so youthful about the simple
felt hat that it Is doubtful if it
will ever go out of fashion. Wo
men have become so sensitive, to
style, that they will always
choose the style that makes them
look most youthful. That is the
main reason we still have the
short skirt with us.
Bureau Comes To Aid of
Mothers Who Must Sew
With Much Speed f:
WASHINGTON (AP) With
school demanding new dresses, the
Bureau of Home Economics has
come, to the aid. of mothers who
must sew with speed for a family
of growing girls. ; V 4'tU
"Those at home." : the bureau
n says, can wait ana nave weir
winter garments completed grad
ually, but the daughters who have
gone away to school must have,
within a short time, as many
clothes as possible. : , f ; ; ;
To insure convenient haste, It
(s necessary, that sewing tools b3
in order, the scissors sharp, the
tape' measure legible, and a-good
supply of pins, needles, thread.
snaps, hooks and eyes, tape, elas
tic, and similar items, at hand.;
'The sewing machine must be
in good; order. If it has been closed
and unused for any length of time
It probably: will need a thorough
going : oyer. Every part : should J
be oiled thoroughly with kerosene.
the machine run vigorously with-;
out thread for a few minutes, and
then oiled with a good sewing ma
chine oil. All accessible parts
should be wiped clean, and a bit
of wool tied on top the preaser1
foot to prevent oil from running
down on the work.' r i j:
"It is important that there be a
supply of needles of various sixes,
that the machine 'belt be tight
enough, and that the preaser foot
and feed plate work right." i
As a final suggestion, the bur
eau points out that special places
should be arranged for partly fin
ished work .and that stitching
basting, folding, and so on be so
systematized as to prevent loss of
time from other work when start
ing or finishing the sewing.
Dressmakers' Latest r
Product, Half and Half
PARIS (AP) Among the lat
est offerings of the Champs Erys
ees style salons is a black satin
evening ensemble with a pink
lined wrap which Is half cape and
half coat. It has only one sleeve.
The right ; arm is covered by a
graceful flaring cape cf almost
military swank.
The wrap! fastens with a pink
lined bow: on the left shoulder.
Under the half-and-half is a black
satin dress with a bodice of pink
satin with encrustations of black
in formal design.
Read the Classified Ads
Songs of a
Housewife
The Family Look;
(Suggested by Mrs. 6. II. 8.)
The pile of cakes was thinning
When several more I took;
Did Mother scold me? No,' far
; worse! r -
I got "the Family Look!"
The Family Look is fearful.
-By it you are accused
Of greed, of sins unspeakable,
' Of trusts betrayed, abused! -
It's deadlier than insults.
It's louder than a shout.
When you see the Family
at woTk, .
Take my advice. Get out!
X
Look
Wfll Follow Her Man"
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Do you remember the problem!
of one of the "Broken Hearted"
letters? A girl living in a foreign
country was engaged to a boy who
had come to the U. 8. A. and was
making good. He didn't want to
go back and she didn't want to
come here to llye, so they had bro
ken their engagement and .both
hearts were aching. ' t ;
. ? This letter has come from a girl
who has the same problem but
meets It in a different way:
t"Dear MnuXee: I want to tell
'Broken Hearted' to go with her
fiance. To follow him if she loves
him as much as she says she does.
X am engaged, and although I do
net want to leave my home town,
I am going to 'follow my sweet
heart into foreign lands because
I )ove him. I know that his love
will more than repay any regrets
I taay.have.-'-';, ' . " - ,
; t" 'Broken Hearte.T don't let
happiness sUu through your fin-
ger? ;t because you are obetin-
'.I agree with 'yon Sweetheart
If a air 1 loves a man enough to
Wcome engaged to him she should
be willing to follow and make a
home for: him, no" matter where
he goei.
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To Bobby, who wants to get ao
ftualnted wTtK rokeafietTted
jatid Lonely' l': will hare to lay
'that ! have no address and I can
not give addresses of young girls
out in this way. The same answer
must be given to ; "Jack who
wants to know "Lonely Pal".
. . iThe next letter Is from girt
io can't make ;'- cp her . 'mind
about her boy friend, and hopes
I caa help" her.; , -. ;; "T
?"Dear Mrs. Lee: I have been
going with- a fellow . for quite a
wtlle and we broke up, and a few
weeks later 9 started cclag to
gether again. I loved this fellow
before we i broke up, but now' I
feel as though I like him and oth
er times it: seems that I Just hate
him. I am so undecided I wish
you Would tell me. - . "
r "UNDECIDED.
- X think you had. better stop see
ing the boy,; Undecided, until you
can make up your. mind. Maybe
when yon hive been out with oth
ers a few times . you can decide
whether ; you "really like him or
not. ' : , v , - ' .. ...
!'!e
i ........
I am wondering what else
can suggest for these lonely
young people who - write to me,
Here is another letter:
"Dear Mrs. Virginia Lee: My
problem has made me feel so bad
ly I have to i confide In some one.
I am a girl 23 years old. I don't
dance, never went to any wild par
ties, never stay out late at night.
All the-boys; who go with my
friends say I am too slow. I al
ways dress neatly. There is one
fellow whom I have known tor a
long time.; He would ' never ask
me tor a date. He always treats
me nicely and says he will call
again. The last time he was over
he acted sol funny that I don't
know - what he thought. I have
his picture and a few other things.
Do you think It would be all
right, for me to drop a note or
send his things tacit ' I ; know
that he will hot come again.
"LONESOME AND BLUB."
No. I would not send his things
to hlcr unless he asks for, them.
And, Aont you think, my dear,
that perhaps in your efforts not
to be wUd";; you may have gone
to the other i extreme and become
a Mt dull? iA girl that Is fuU of
fun and can talk easily usually to
popular. : Why not learn to write
and speak correctly and get In
terested in various sports, books,
ete.'' If you are interesting you
will not lack friends.
THE PERPETUAL HATLINING
- Suggested by Mrs.- Q. H. S.,
Rochester, N. Y.
Each fall I make myself a hat
Of satin new and bright and.
shining, , .
And finished neat as pins Inside,
' With my discarded spring hat's
lining. ;; ' !
k.: : . r" !. I . ;: i-t's"':
When spring rolls 'round again,
..: I make ;:'f U ir'-.""!-
- Another bonnet gay and new;
The lining from the previous fall
I then decide, once 'more will
"do." j'T f A '4 :h2
Lining perpetually on the go, ;
- The year around, I have a no
tion . ;:
In you, perchance, ;; X may have
solved x ... j ; ' :
The riddle of perpetual t mo
: V- tion! ,-" ; v : f A
WAITIXa DINNIOl v
Suggested by Mrs. W. W. R.)
He v always chooses the worst
night. I ;
. : To cdme home late. ' ? . .
My i. Souffle rises, puffed - and
light-
. : i - ' r
I sit and wait! " .
The daintiest dinner of the sea
son ; : ,
1 prepare.
Ready to serve; ' without a reason
He: isn't there!
But let me have a pick-up dinner
jnoi wortn a dime.
And then, of course, impenitent
sinner, , ; . .
He's right on timet '
Cooking Secret
At sea level water boils at 212
degrees. At five thousand feet it
boils at 201 degrees," says the
Woman's Home Companion. "In
higher altitudes," adds the caus
tic : commentator, "housewives
probably putlt Into the refriger
ator to bOlL."
Faded Colors Proving
To Be Brilliant Fashion
HANDS LIKE FRAGRANT FLOWERS
El
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' A lady's hand has always- seemed to me like a flower -the wrist
the calyx, the fingers the petals, declares Lelong, famous couturier.
After they are washed and dried a softening lotion or cream is
rubbed into. them. Then, a few drop of perfume are applied.
out the whole toilette of the lndi-
; Paris- (API In a season of
black Paris is oomblnig color In a
subtle way by Tjtinging beige and
gray with suggestions of greens
and blues, by casting navy blue
with violet; by! darkening deep
reds until they! are very near
brown. . .,.
Each designer is launching cer
tain colors which he claims ; are
his own, dyed according to his di
rection. . Beiges, particularly are
adroitly, aoioreq. some have a
very slight touch of rose, and 6th-
ers which verge upon the 'gray
tones of putty, i j ;
Delicately pale gray-greens and
creamy yellows are need for wool
coats which have immense collars
of light fur, such as natural lynx
or beige fox.
Fox, William W. Supervisor
(KxelnsiT Call to Catrl Pro and
Tfc 8ttn.) '
A lady's hand has always seem
ed to me like a flower the wrist
the calyx, the fingers the petals.
To be sure, there are plentv of
hands that would not stand this
comparison, but they are unfor
tunate hands, potential blossoms
that have not been properly tend
ed and cultivated. -
"If the feminine hand is like a
flower, what is more fitting than
that it should possess a sweet
fragrance? I can Imagine no hum
an feature with more power to
charm than a lovely hand, fair and
white and smooth, the nails gleam
ingly pink, and the mounts of the
palm ever so faintly touched with
rouge. Whether or not that hand
Is enhanced by a single precious
! jewel matters not at all. Its real
beauty is Inherent in itself. Best
of all, such hands can be acquired
It Is merely a matter of care.
European men, especially Lat
ins, have the custom of kissing a
woman's hand as a form of greet
ing and leave-taking. Perhaps that
is one reason why the feminine
hand there is recognized as a very
definite weapon, shall we oayT-
of charm and coauetry." One Of
the niceties of the toilette that 1b
never neglected is the scenting of
a woman's hands. After they are
washed and carefully dried with a
soft towel, a softening lotion or
cream is rubbed Into them. Then
a-few drops of perfume are appli
ed, especial attention being paid.
to the backs of the hands and to
the tips of the fingers. It goes
without saying that this s the
same fragrance, that is used thru-j
Do Not Spoil Rectangular Room
With Cross Corner Arrangements
vidual. When the hands are warm
or when they feel lifeless they can
be marvelously refreshed by ' a
bath of toilet-water.
Scent Gloves
The - fastidious woman always
keeps her gloves delicately scent
ed with her - favorite perfume.
When gloves 'come from the clean
er, they should be left to air until
entirely freed of that objection
able "cleaner's smell." Then they
may be put away between sachets
I wish that we might have the
perfumed gloves of. olden times
revived, uiove-making, as you
know, is quite an ancient Industry
in France, where the art of scent
ing gloves was begun in the early
part of the sixteenth century,
From Italy and Spain were obtain
ed leathers that were Impregnated
with ambergris, musk, or civet.
Then it is recorded that an Earl
of the English court returned
from a visit to Italy bringing
sweet bags (what we call sachets)
gloves and a perfumed leather jer
kin. And immediately Quen Eliza'
beth, acquired a pair of perfumed
gloves, in which she took such ex
traordinary pleasure that she had
a picture executed of herself with
the gloves on her hands. The
Queen took great delight in per
fumes and,' had, even .her shoes
scented 'with sweet essences.
I did not mean to lapse into
the history of perfumes, fascinat
ing though It is. But I do want
to point out the admirable Im
portance that should be attached
to the hands and their fragrancev
If It is for no other end than grai
iflcation of self, no woman shouU
neglect that touch of perfume that
makes her hands a delicate de
v
Smartest Parisians
Leaving Off Collars
PARIS (AP) The new dress
es, do away with collars as much
as possible. Yet Paris finds a way
to retain the flattering "touch ot
white or color which osually
marks even the simplest dre.i. hj
tucking crepe de chine or pique
inside the neckline of the dress
and making a gllet of it.
; A tailored street dress ot the
new eponge, shown by Jean Patou
has its square neck-line outlined
by white pique. The white shows
about "three-quarters of an inch
at the front and about a half-inch
at the sides and back. Cuffs on
this dress are replaced by little
inch-wide bands of pique worn
outside the sleeve, a few inches
above the wrist.
I Lculseboulanger uses a surpris
ing touch of yellow In a similar
gllet on a drees of printed silk,
but In this case the gilet forms a
sort of yoke. ,
Shoulder Flowers Again
Coming Into Blossom
PARIS - (AP) The shoulder
flower, which seemed doomed, is
again an Important fashion. It is
a new type of fl-wer not so
much a decoration as a part of the
design of the costume.
Many times it is trade of the
fabric of the drees. Drooping
chrysanthemums, worn at the tip
of the shoulder, aie new. There
are also flowers of shlnging, trans
parent stuff, like those on dresses
by LoulBeboulangcr, duplicating
the colors of the printed chiffon.
, felo&eoms of black patent leath
er, worn on the lapel of a tailored
coat and matched by a flower on
the hat, and a black patent leath
er belt on the dress; beneath, are
the latest.
V
Approximately one-sixth of the
earth's surface is included In the
Soviet TTnlon, according to an an
swered question in Liberty. -
- i -i
Have SfMinMyfa
The Modern
Give us the new fashioned
Christmas. "Telephone and radio,
movies and the airplane and the
motor car, freer spirits ' and i a
thousand, new points of 'contact,
these are the gifts that mankind
has given to all mankind to enrich
and magnify life. Woman's
Home Companion.
- With football having had Its say
It's about time for basketball to
t3 the floor. . .
;j Every woman Is not blessed
with an eye for color,T but prac
tically every woman I Inherits an
eye for form. Tet again and again
we ? find women" of really good
taste ; arranging furniture in a
rectangular room across the cor
ners. The architect who planned
the room did it with the Idea that
It was to contain furniture, yon
know. Had he intended any cross
corner arrangement, he would
have constructed a room with cut
off corners. it is neither correct
nor artistic to set upright pianos,
china closets or desks across a
corner. To say the !aat It leaves
an ugly triangular, space behind
the furniture. The only position
for.; rugs or furniture in a. rect
angular room la in keeping with
its rectangular lines. '-' 'j- '
Tha."aDova sketch shows the
proper grouping of furniture In a
15 by '19'foot living room. Note
the position ot the piano at the
right of the broad douhle window.
balanced by the drop leaf table On
centered in the color scheme. It 1
balanced ty the fireplace on the
opposite side of the room, thus
affording a comfortable window
nook by which to dream on warm
sunny days, and a fireplace where
dreams come true on a cold 'win
ter evening. ,. 1 , ; ;
. Window Seats Favored -t
Personally; X am try fond of
the built-in - window seat , with
cushions aplenty, ' Or. as In , the
case of the room pictured above,
where there Is no alcove nd a
long space to fill beneath thp
window, of a divan.- For the sin
gle window a window box seat: Is
very easily constructed, or a large
comfortable chair looks homey In
the- grouping.' There should be a
handy desk where any memoer of
the family may tit down to write
a letter at a moment's notice, just
as there are writing desks arrang
ed in hotels, a case for. books ac
cessible to constant -use. -about
three easy chairs and an occasion
al table or two. all of which this
the left. The window dominates living room contains in balanced
the room, and in its grouping: Is groupings against the three walls
not shown In the sketclu J ,
N6te .that nothing Is placed in
the center of the floor.-; The. end
of a settee drawn up at the side
of : the fireplace, and r extending
out Into the room because the
room is large enough to afford it,
shows in the sketch. I will show
you this grouping in another ar
ticle. Against , the right wall a
small . oblong table Is centered,
with a seating stool between It
and the upright piano, and an
easy" chain on the opposite side.
This is balanced by the desk cen
tered, on the opposite side of the
room, with an easy chair between
it and the drop leaf table. On the
other side of . the desk is a door,
but a small square table has been
placed In the corner beyond the
door as v balance to the easy
chair on the opposite side of the
room. , ; : ,; ,-- -.. ; w;
Note that three rugs are used,
and that they are placed at right
ancles with the furniture and the
walls. . .
Demandcr
From where I sit I get a very
clear viewpoint on the modern
young man. Many of them have
become so used to me that they
regard me not as a woman of age
and more or; less dignity, but one
of themselves. Indeed, when two
or three ot them enter Into a dis
cussion it almost seems at times
that they forget that I am there.
I might just as well be the humi
dor that is resting on the table
between them, or any part of the
furniture which adds to their con
tent. ''
The other; night at a dinner
where all the men seemed to me
only "boys grown a little taller"
and I was the only woman pres
ent, I got a4 most peculiar ' slant
on the modern man's reaction to
the women be meets.
These boys were talking of an
absent friend! who had just brok
en off his engagement with a
young woman they all knew.
I don't blame him a bit," said
one of them. "I've never in all
my life known such a demand
ed." ;! - (
'May I ask what is a demand-
er?" I broke In, in my most cas
ual ; voicer for X rarely Interrupt
these boys' conversation, as H
seems to : make - them very con
scious of themselves . and conse
quently reticent." X could not re
sist asking a definition of the -unfamiliar
word.
Why, you know, Mrs. Gibson,"
spoke another boy, a demander
is a girl who demands your com
pliments, your petting, your time,
your money, yourself. ' She de
mands that 'thou shalt have no
other girls before me.
"She's the girl who Jelephones
to you two or three times a day
and gets the boss down on you.
She demands that you shail call
upon her In and out of 3eason.
She invites you to take her to par
ties and she expects that you will
come lh a taxi or your motLer'e
limousine and send flowers ani
bon-bons.
"She hangs you at her char!o
wheel and tells all the world that
you are hers to dispose of as sbf
pleases. In fact, she makes you
fairly hate her."
"That's right," said another
one of the boys. "I would like t
tell her something that Is abso
lutely true of all men from th
plumber to the prince, young oi
old. A man always wants to
He never wants to be held up.
"The Booner a girl learns thh
or the sooner, at least, she learni
to make her demands so adroitly
that we poor fish swallow th
bait, hook and line, the soonei
will . she become popular a mon
the menof her acquaintance. Thi
frankness in which the girls toils;
voice their demands, gets m!
goat." :
Memo: A girl must either b
modest or adroit. Take you
choice, but whatever you are, d
not be a "demander".
HcScWeve Beauty
' Crr MML HCLEn PlJ3TE.i -XJ
He Chic from the Knees Down
" 'Legs have taken on a;new Im
portance with the vogue of short
skirts, and every woman who
strives to keep up with the fash
ions should recognize the fact and
give special attention to keeping
herself chic from the knees down.
Literally, thit Include approxi
mately a third of . the length of
your figure. . j ?
.. :.-.v. - r ' '"
Where ankles used to be high
points, that 'distinction, has now
gone to the knees. , They are the
main part of the picture. The light
stockings make them stand out in
bold relief and If they are not at
tractive , you have spoiled ; the
whole effect of trim shoes and a
lovely gown. - ,
One "of the main problems In
dressing your legs is to be par
ticularly careful In the choice of
your stockings. They must be a
shade that harmonises with your
dress, or to match the trimming
on " your ; shoes, your gloves or
handbag. There is such a Tast va
riety of beige shades that it is very
easy to get istockings altogether
out of tuns with the tones of the, she takes them off.
rest of your eosturae. And "he(
you consider the large expanse a
you that your stockings cover, yoi
will realise that you have to b
meticulous. In this point.
Keep your stockings well pulle
up so that there will be no wrlni
les at your knees. I once heard I -man
say that there are two typa
of business, woman, the one wb
gets ahead and the one wfaost
stockings wrinkle. I have found,
too, that there Is something aboul -
a crooked seam in back of stock
lngs that Is especially exasperat inf A,
to men. " They cannot forgive wo-
men for being careless in tbesi
two details. , , .. ..
We have all been admonished to
"look' at our feet because other
people do." It is needless to tell
you that you must keep your shoes
well chined or dusted, and be care- j
ful about, run down heels. I do
want to say Just a word about j
shoe-trees. ' They may seem to 1 j
a nuisance, but they add so mucB
to the life and trlmneBS of yu
sho3 that. I" believe It It -ra
every woman's, while to alwJ'
put her shoes on shoe-trees btt