Ijl'a.sMoinis .ft LU FjffiilBLEII JAKE MY FDRMS ldication To - Fact That Sloping Pleats Will Be. : Popular This Year 4 1 i i 1 - Associated Pitts Fashion . Editor) By Hazel ItetlYla ' PARIS. (AP) Paris styles seem to be drifting so far as the silhouette Is concerned. Even the wisest fashion seer is ' baffled to know what the spring trend will discover. Just at present there Is a 'silhouette for every figure. . The oaly difficulty Is to know oneself. . Just when the trend seems defi nitely established . for stralghter lilies and simpler, along, comes an authority like . Jenny and upsets reckonings with a pinched in waist aftd princess line. .i t To upset Jenny there are Worth afad Patou and Lucien Lelong. all sponsoring youthfully straight and Inconsequential figures. ' " Even more youthful than, these are other houses with other, slihou ettes, mostly fitted waist and flar ing skirt lines, which "American women' seem to hare decided they do not care for. " No doubt the spring contour lies somewhere between the two, na less Paris actually has something op its sleeved Fuller skirts have definitely v come - to : stay. The question la only, how the fulness Is to be inserted, whether In straight pleats, or in "circular Dares. There is an Indication that slop ping pleats are to be popular. That Isja sign of flares, and when skirts flare waists are almost invariably nipped in. '.'.v r;- - Paris seems to be looking : to evening dresses to lead the way to new things in street and ! sport clothes. Added skirt length for Q things came by war of erening rocks. . Now the newest tailored dresses ; are : following their lead. Ope sees some examples of dresses which dip In baek, and many tail ored dresses with flares and cir cular draperies which ape in wool th styles of satin. , y! j By this criterion the styles of prlng are to be mildly flariny, somewhat longer and have raised, id: slightly fitted waistlines. Host of these characteristics can be detected tn .the run of Paris newest 'erening models. .What to Wear and How to Wear It . : , N-r Woolens Vie With Velvet.for Popularity ') ! ' :M;H -j , A) . - ' - ( ) j y 1 EFFICIEfP UEEDED IFJ GIRLS' SEWING Women Warned About Removing of Make-Up ;No matter how tired they are, women who dare to neglect re moTing dust and make-up from the face and skin before retiring for the night are guilty of a crim inal offense against their good looks, Eileen Bourne, - famous . beauty writer, warns women, in an article tn Liberty. "One of the skin's main Jobs is to regulate the temperature of the body," Miss Bourne explains. "To do this it has to continue resilient and firm. During the night the alight moisture which is always rising to the surface of the body carries off surface' impurities. - l"But the skin can help in this Important work only if it is clean and healthy. If it is covered with the dust of the day, plus powder aad rouge, it is in no condition to .function, By Lucy Claire ( Motion Export fov Central Proa od Xho Stoto a.) The new woolens this season are so beautiful they make velvets sit up and take notice. The very new est are metallic woolens, sheer and soft as a Shetland wool veil. Some are in gold or silver and,, wool stripes, while others are in an all-; over weave In which it is hard to distinguish the metallic from the woolen threads. The most popu lar handling is in the new sports frocks, with the long tunic blouse over a pleated velvet skirt. The tunle .is unllned, effecting a trans parent neck and sleeves, as well as transparency for the satin or metallic ! cloth camisole of the skirt. I feel this will be a favorite number for the Palm Beach frock, and will carry over into our north ern summer; resort wear. Then there are the semi-transparent woolens without the metal effect, now at the apex of the dress model? Vollle-lalne is par- icularly good. 'The center photo graph shows a vollle-lalne model In chatteau gray with j pipings of American beauty velvet. ' Note the one-sided treatment of; the bodice carried down in a pointed waist line over a side pleated skirt. The narrow yoke effect of : the bodice brings a bit of the American rose against the face. I like this piping treatment to relieve the monotony of a plain one-tone frock. PeptlllM Patterns The snake still rules his Eve. She has taken kindly! to him in leather and silk, and now he ven tures into woolens. Flannels of reptilian pattern are among the most popular printed novelties of the season. In the photograph at the left you will find a striking ensemble interpreting the reptil ian woolen tunic blouse over a pleated cloth skirt, with the vogue for lining with flannel or kasha carried out in the three-quarter ensemble coat.! ; - : Frequently thesenew soft wool ens lend themselves to Interpreta tions of the flare. This is espec ially true of the new challis,. fol lowing the small print trend of the season.- In the model at the right challis and velvet combine in a dainty semi-formal frock. The challis is printed in star flowers' of emerald green, soft yellow and gray green scattered on a black ground. ' The belt and decorative detail are of emerald green velvet. Reptile trimmed shoes would be stunning worn with the reptile and one-tone cloth ensemble, gunmetal kid. with the 'gray, frock,; and black shoes with the challis cos tume. Felt hats are worn with all three costumes. There a some-; thing so youthful about the simple felt hat that it Is doubtful if it will ever go out of fashion. Wo men have become so sensitive, to style, that they will always choose the style that makes them look most youthful. That is the main reason we still have the short skirt with us. Bureau Comes To Aid of Mothers Who Must Sew With Much Speed f: WASHINGTON (AP) With school demanding new dresses, the Bureau of Home Economics has come, to the aid. of mothers who must sew with speed for a family of growing girls. ; V 4'tU "Those at home." : the bureau n says, can wait ana nave weir winter garments completed grad ually, but the daughters who have gone away to school must have, within a short time, as many clothes as possible. : , f ; ; ; To insure convenient haste, It (s necessary, that sewing tools b3 in order, the scissors sharp, the tape' measure legible, and a-good supply of pins, needles, thread. snaps, hooks and eyes, tape, elas tic, and similar items, at hand.; 'The sewing machine must be in good; order. If it has been closed and unused for any length of time It probably: will need a thorough going : oyer. Every part : should J be oiled thoroughly with kerosene. the machine run vigorously with-; out thread for a few minutes, and then oiled with a good sewing ma chine oil. All accessible parts should be wiped clean, and a bit of wool tied on top the preaser1 foot to prevent oil from running down on the work.' r i j: "It is important that there be a supply of needles of various sixes, that the machine 'belt be tight enough, and that the preaser foot and feed plate work right." i As a final suggestion, the bur eau points out that special places should be arranged for partly fin ished work .and that stitching basting, folding, and so on be so systematized as to prevent loss of time from other work when start ing or finishing the sewing. Dressmakers' Latest r Product, Half and Half PARIS (AP) Among the lat est offerings of the Champs Erys ees style salons is a black satin evening ensemble with a pink lined wrap which Is half cape and half coat. It has only one sleeve. The right ; arm is covered by a graceful flaring cape cf almost military swank. The wrap! fastens with a pink lined bow: on the left shoulder. Under the half-and-half is a black satin dress with a bodice of pink satin with encrustations of black in formal design. Read the Classified Ads Songs of a Housewife The Family Look; (Suggested by Mrs. 6. II. 8.) The pile of cakes was thinning When several more I took; Did Mother scold me? No,' far ; worse! r - I got "the Family Look!" The Family Look is fearful. -By it you are accused Of greed, of sins unspeakable, ' Of trusts betrayed, abused! - It's deadlier than insults. It's louder than a shout. When you see the Family at woTk, . Take my advice. Get out! X Look Wfll Follow Her Man" I Do you remember the problem! of one of the "Broken Hearted" letters? A girl living in a foreign country was engaged to a boy who had come to the U. 8. A. and was making good. He didn't want to go back and she didn't want to come here to llye, so they had bro ken their engagement and .both hearts were aching. ' t ; . ? This letter has come from a girl who has the same problem but meets It in a different way: t"Dear MnuXee: I want to tell 'Broken Hearted' to go with her fiance. To follow him if she loves him as much as she says she does. X am engaged, and although I do net want to leave my home town, I am going to 'follow my sweet heart into foreign lands because I )ove him. I know that his love will more than repay any regrets I taay.have.-'-';, ' . " - , ; t" 'Broken Hearte.T don't let happiness sUu through your fin- ger? ;t because you are obetin- '.I agree with 'yon Sweetheart If a air 1 loves a man enough to Wcome engaged to him she should be willing to follow and make a home for: him, no" matter where he goei. - To Bobby, who wants to get ao ftualnted wTtK rokeafietTted jatid Lonely' l': will hare to lay 'that ! have no address and I can not give addresses of young girls out in this way. The same answer must be given to ; "Jack who wants to know "Lonely Pal". . . iThe next letter Is from girt io can't make ;'- cp her . 'mind about her boy friend, and hopes I caa help" her.; , -. ;; "T ?"Dear Mrs. Lee: I have been going with- a fellow . for quite a wtlle and we broke up, and a few weeks later 9 started cclag to gether again. I loved this fellow before we i broke up, but now' I feel as though I like him and oth er times it: seems that I Just hate him. I am so undecided I wish you Would tell me. - . " r "UNDECIDED. - X think you had. better stop see ing the boy,; Undecided, until you can make up your. mind. Maybe when yon hive been out with oth ers a few times . you can decide whether ; you "really like him or not. ' : , v , - ' .. ... !'!e i ........ I am wondering what else can suggest for these lonely young people who - write to me, Here is another letter: "Dear Mrs. Virginia Lee: My problem has made me feel so bad ly I have to i confide In some one. I am a girl 23 years old. I don't dance, never went to any wild par ties, never stay out late at night. All the-boys; who go with my friends say I am too slow. I al ways dress neatly. There is one fellow whom I have known tor a long time.; He would ' never ask me tor a date. He always treats me nicely and says he will call again. The last time he was over he acted sol funny that I don't know - what he thought. I have his picture and a few other things. Do you think It would be all right, for me to drop a note or send his things tacit ' I ; know that he will hot come again. "LONESOME AND BLUB." No. I would not send his things to hlcr unless he asks for, them. And, Aont you think, my dear, that perhaps in your efforts not to be wUd";; you may have gone to the other i extreme and become a Mt dull? iA girl that Is fuU of fun and can talk easily usually to popular. : Why not learn to write and speak correctly and get In terested in various sports, books, ete.'' If you are interesting you will not lack friends. THE PERPETUAL HATLINING - Suggested by Mrs.- Q. H. S., Rochester, N. Y. Each fall I make myself a hat Of satin new and bright and. shining, , . And finished neat as pins Inside, ' With my discarded spring hat's lining. ;; ' ! k.: : . r" !. I . ;: i-t's"': When spring rolls 'round again, ..: I make ;:'f U ir'-.""!- - Another bonnet gay and new; The lining from the previous fall I then decide, once 'more will "do." j'T f A '4 :h2 Lining perpetually on the go, ; - The year around, I have a no tion . ;: In you, perchance, ;; X may have solved x ... j ; ' : The riddle of perpetual t mo : V- tion! ,-" ; v : f A WAITIXa DINNIOl v Suggested by Mrs. W. W. R.) He v always chooses the worst night. I ; . : To cdme home late. ' ? . . My i. Souffle rises, puffed - and light- . : i - ' r I sit and wait! " . The daintiest dinner of the sea son ; : , 1 prepare. Ready to serve; ' without a reason He: isn't there! But let me have a pick-up dinner jnoi wortn a dime. And then, of course, impenitent sinner, , ; . . He's right on timet ' Cooking Secret At sea level water boils at 212 degrees. At five thousand feet it boils at 201 degrees," says the Woman's Home Companion. "In higher altitudes," adds the caus tic : commentator, "housewives probably putlt Into the refriger ator to bOlL." Faded Colors Proving To Be Brilliant Fashion HANDS LIKE FRAGRANT FLOWERS El i I 4" I? "; ' ' A lady's hand has always- seemed to me like a flower -the wrist the calyx, the fingers the petals, declares Lelong, famous couturier. After they are washed and dried a softening lotion or cream is rubbed into. them. Then, a few drop of perfume are applied. out the whole toilette of the lndi- ; Paris- (API In a season of black Paris is oomblnig color In a subtle way by Tjtinging beige and gray with suggestions of greens and blues, by casting navy blue with violet; by! darkening deep reds until they! are very near brown. . .,. Each designer is launching cer tain colors which he claims ; are his own, dyed according to his di rection. . Beiges, particularly are adroitly, aoioreq. some have a very slight touch of rose, and 6th- ers which verge upon the 'gray tones of putty, i j ; Delicately pale gray-greens and creamy yellows are need for wool coats which have immense collars of light fur, such as natural lynx or beige fox. Fox, William W. Supervisor (KxelnsiT Call to Catrl Pro and Tfc 8ttn.) ' A lady's hand has always seem ed to me like a flower the wrist the calyx, the fingers the petals. To be sure, there are plentv of hands that would not stand this comparison, but they are unfor tunate hands, potential blossoms that have not been properly tend ed and cultivated. - "If the feminine hand is like a flower, what is more fitting than that it should possess a sweet fragrance? I can Imagine no hum an feature with more power to charm than a lovely hand, fair and white and smooth, the nails gleam ingly pink, and the mounts of the palm ever so faintly touched with rouge. Whether or not that hand Is enhanced by a single precious ! jewel matters not at all. Its real beauty is Inherent in itself. Best of all, such hands can be acquired It Is merely a matter of care. European men, especially Lat ins, have the custom of kissing a woman's hand as a form of greet ing and leave-taking. Perhaps that is one reason why the feminine hand there is recognized as a very definite weapon, shall we oayT- of charm and coauetry." One Of the niceties of the toilette that 1b never neglected is the scenting of a woman's hands. After they are washed and carefully dried with a soft towel, a softening lotion or cream is rubbed Into them. Then a-few drops of perfume are appli ed, especial attention being paid. to the backs of the hands and to the tips of the fingers. It goes without saying that this s the same fragrance, that is used thru-j Do Not Spoil Rectangular Room With Cross Corner Arrangements vidual. When the hands are warm or when they feel lifeless they can be marvelously refreshed by ' a bath of toilet-water. Scent Gloves The - fastidious woman always keeps her gloves delicately scent ed with her - favorite perfume. When gloves 'come from the clean er, they should be left to air until entirely freed of that objection able "cleaner's smell." Then they may be put away between sachets I wish that we might have the perfumed gloves of. olden times revived, uiove-making, as you know, is quite an ancient Industry in France, where the art of scent ing gloves was begun in the early part of the sixteenth century, From Italy and Spain were obtain ed leathers that were Impregnated with ambergris, musk, or civet. Then it is recorded that an Earl of the English court returned from a visit to Italy bringing sweet bags (what we call sachets) gloves and a perfumed leather jer kin. And immediately Quen Eliza' beth, acquired a pair of perfumed gloves, in which she took such ex traordinary pleasure that she had a picture executed of herself with the gloves on her hands. The Queen took great delight in per fumes and,' had, even .her shoes scented 'with sweet essences. I did not mean to lapse into the history of perfumes, fascinat ing though It is. But I do want to point out the admirable Im portance that should be attached to the hands and their fragrancev If It is for no other end than grai iflcation of self, no woman shouU neglect that touch of perfume that makes her hands a delicate de v Smartest Parisians Leaving Off Collars PARIS (AP) The new dress es, do away with collars as much as possible. Yet Paris finds a way to retain the flattering "touch ot white or color which osually marks even the simplest dre.i. hj tucking crepe de chine or pique inside the neckline of the dress and making a gllet of it. ; A tailored street dress ot the new eponge, shown by Jean Patou has its square neck-line outlined by white pique. The white shows about "three-quarters of an inch at the front and about a half-inch at the sides and back. Cuffs on this dress are replaced by little inch-wide bands of pique worn outside the sleeve, a few inches above the wrist. I Lculseboulanger uses a surpris ing touch of yellow In a similar gllet on a drees of printed silk, but In this case the gilet forms a sort of yoke. , Shoulder Flowers Again Coming Into Blossom PARIS - (AP) The shoulder flower, which seemed doomed, is again an Important fashion. It is a new type of fl-wer not so much a decoration as a part of the design of the costume. Many times it is trade of the fabric of the drees. Drooping chrysanthemums, worn at the tip of the shoulder, aie new. There are also flowers of shlnging, trans parent stuff, like those on dresses by LoulBeboulangcr, duplicating the colors of the printed chiffon. , felo&eoms of black patent leath er, worn on the lapel of a tailored coat and matched by a flower on the hat, and a black patent leath er belt on the dress; beneath, are the latest. V Approximately one-sixth of the earth's surface is included In the Soviet TTnlon, according to an an swered question in Liberty. - - i -i Have SfMinMyfa The Modern Give us the new fashioned Christmas. "Telephone and radio, movies and the airplane and the motor car, freer spirits ' and i a thousand, new points of 'contact, these are the gifts that mankind has given to all mankind to enrich and magnify life. Woman's Home Companion. - With football having had Its say It's about time for basketball to t3 the floor. . . ;j Every woman Is not blessed with an eye for color,T but prac tically every woman I Inherits an eye for form. Tet again and again we ? find women" of really good taste ; arranging furniture in a rectangular room across the cor ners. The architect who planned the room did it with the Idea that It was to contain furniture, yon know. Had he intended any cross corner arrangement, he would have constructed a room with cut off corners. it is neither correct nor artistic to set upright pianos, china closets or desks across a corner. To say the !aat It leaves an ugly triangular, space behind the furniture. The only position for.; rugs or furniture in a. rect angular room la in keeping with its rectangular lines. '-' 'j- ' Tha."aDova sketch shows the proper grouping of furniture In a 15 by '19'foot living room. Note the position ot the piano at the right of the broad douhle window. balanced by the drop leaf table On centered in the color scheme. It 1 balanced ty the fireplace on the opposite side of the room, thus affording a comfortable window nook by which to dream on warm sunny days, and a fireplace where dreams come true on a cold 'win ter evening. ,. 1 , ; ; . Window Seats Favored -t Personally; X am try fond of the built-in - window seat , with cushions aplenty, ' Or. as In , the case of the room pictured above, where there Is no alcove nd a long space to fill beneath thp window, of a divan.- For the sin gle window a window box seat: Is very easily constructed, or a large comfortable chair looks homey In the- grouping.' There should be a handy desk where any memoer of the family may tit down to write a letter at a moment's notice, just as there are writing desks arrang ed in hotels, a case for. books ac cessible to constant -use. -about three easy chairs and an occasion al table or two. all of which this the left. The window dominates living room contains in balanced the room, and in its grouping: Is groupings against the three walls not shown In the sketclu J , N6te .that nothing Is placed in the center of the floor.-; The. end of a settee drawn up at the side of : the fireplace, and r extending out Into the room because the room is large enough to afford it, shows in the sketch. I will show you this grouping in another ar ticle. Against , the right wall a small . oblong table Is centered, with a seating stool between It and the upright piano, and an easy" chain on the opposite side. This is balanced by the desk cen tered, on the opposite side of the room, with an easy chair between it and the drop leaf table. On the other side of . the desk is a door, but a small square table has been placed In the corner beyond the door as v balance to the easy chair on the opposite side of the room. , ; : ,; ,-- -.. ; w; Note that three rugs are used, and that they are placed at right ancles with the furniture and the walls. . . Demandcr From where I sit I get a very clear viewpoint on the modern young man. Many of them have become so used to me that they regard me not as a woman of age and more or; less dignity, but one of themselves. Indeed, when two or three ot them enter Into a dis cussion it almost seems at times that they forget that I am there. I might just as well be the humi dor that is resting on the table between them, or any part of the furniture which adds to their con tent. '' The other; night at a dinner where all the men seemed to me only "boys grown a little taller" and I was the only woman pres ent, I got a4 most peculiar ' slant on the modern man's reaction to the women be meets. These boys were talking of an absent friend! who had just brok en off his engagement with a young woman they all knew. I don't blame him a bit," said one of them. "I've never in all my life known such a demand ed." ;! - ( 'May I ask what is a demand- er?" I broke In, in my most cas ual ; voicer for X rarely Interrupt these boys' conversation, as H seems to : make - them very con scious of themselves . and conse quently reticent." X could not re sist asking a definition of the -unfamiliar word. Why, you know, Mrs. Gibson," spoke another boy, a demander is a girl who demands your com pliments, your petting, your time, your money, yourself. ' She de mands that 'thou shalt have no other girls before me. "She's the girl who Jelephones to you two or three times a day and gets the boss down on you. She demands that you shail call upon her In and out of 3eason. She invites you to take her to par ties and she expects that you will come lh a taxi or your motLer'e limousine and send flowers ani bon-bons. "She hangs you at her char!o wheel and tells all the world that you are hers to dispose of as sbf pleases. In fact, she makes you fairly hate her." "That's right," said another one of the boys. "I would like t tell her something that Is abso lutely true of all men from th plumber to the prince, young oi old. A man always wants to He never wants to be held up. "The Booner a girl learns thh or the sooner, at least, she learni to make her demands so adroitly that we poor fish swallow th bait, hook and line, the soonei will . she become popular a mon the menof her acquaintance. Thi frankness in which the girls toils; voice their demands, gets m! goat." : Memo: A girl must either b modest or adroit. Take you choice, but whatever you are, d not be a "demander". HcScWeve Beauty ' Crr MML HCLEn PlJ3TE.i -XJ He Chic from the Knees Down " 'Legs have taken on a;new Im portance with the vogue of short skirts, and every woman who strives to keep up with the fash ions should recognize the fact and give special attention to keeping herself chic from the knees down. Literally, thit Include approxi mately a third of . the length of your figure. . j ? .. :.-.v. - r ' '" Where ankles used to be high points, that 'distinction, has now gone to the knees. , They are the main part of the picture. The light stockings make them stand out in bold relief and If they are not at tractive , you have spoiled ; the whole effect of trim shoes and a lovely gown. - , One "of the main problems In dressing your legs is to be par ticularly careful In the choice of your stockings. They must be a shade that harmonises with your dress, or to match the trimming on " your ; shoes, your gloves or handbag. There is such a Tast va riety of beige shades that it is very easy to get istockings altogether out of tuns with the tones of the, she takes them off. rest of your eosturae. And "he( you consider the large expanse a you that your stockings cover, yoi will realise that you have to b meticulous. In this point. Keep your stockings well pulle up so that there will be no wrlni les at your knees. I once heard I -man say that there are two typa of business, woman, the one wb gets ahead and the one wfaost stockings wrinkle. I have found, too, that there Is something aboul - a crooked seam in back of stock lngs that Is especially exasperat inf A, to men. " They cannot forgive wo- men for being careless in tbesi two details. , , .. .. We have all been admonished to "look' at our feet because other people do." It is needless to tell you that you must keep your shoes well chined or dusted, and be care- j ful about, run down heels. I do want to say Just a word about j shoe-trees. ' They may seem to 1 j a nuisance, but they add so mucB to the life and trlmneBS of yu sho3 that. I" believe It It -ra every woman's, while to alwJ' put her shoes on shoe-trees btt