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About The Oregon statesman. (Salem, Or.) 1916-1980 | View Entire Issue (Nov. 27, 1927)
TOE OREGOIT STATESMAN. SALEM, OIIEGON. STINPAY MORNING. NOVEMBER 27. 1 9f mm w SEWED OVERTIME M ELDER Favorite Dress Found.To Be - Black Crepe. With Many ; Rows of Ruffles: WHAT TO WEAR AND WHEN TO WEAR IT PARIS, (AP) Several score off. - fans sewing gins breathed sighs ; . of 'relief .when Ruth 'Elder1 sailed ' - f or' home. .!." - The ezpenslTe substitute for-the ' pocket handkerchief and .Unstick, which were Ruth's sole baggage - whin she took off for Paris, cost . thesewing girls many weary hours of j -overtime.:' There was Just -a week's lapse between the girl avia- - tor's appearance in the Rne de Id Pa fx and her exit from the -capital , of ? fashion. Two - of -.those 'days were holidays and' one was San Thej Queen of Spain. Paris . dressmakers' most distinruished : patroness, could not hare received faster servcie than did the little American princess of the air.; It Is (doubtful. If Her -Majesty, who happened to beshopplng in Paris "" at ;the same time Ruth was ever ordered so many costumes at ope time as the American girl did. v Necessities,". Ruth called them. Rut her orders at a single house red like a trosseau list. There we're .twelve eoits and dresses in alf making seven 1 complete - cos tumes, plus five hats and a leather flying eoat. The lot Included two evening dresses, two . afternoon dresses, sport things and the nec- . essary accessories. a to what her clothes cost her thai is a secret between Ruth, the dressmakers and the United States customs men. ;But she paid "like any client" at Jean Patou's and 'IId not ask for any reduction," according to an official of the house. " fOf course," she told the head saleswoman at one salon, "I adore - pretty clothes. Any true woman ' does. I'm Just as feminine a the ret of yon even If I love flying " better than anything else in the wprid." , ; . irer Paris dresses . prove " her woTds. fThe afternoon dresses are examples .of exquisite French juu nniB, jtier zavorite is a black crepe .with : many rows of . raffles on it. To wear with it J6ss Elder ordered a black velvet draped toque with a leather at the tfeht side. - She also ordered black coat trimmed with fox fur. t Sweby carrying out Paris winter eflct for black. A beige satin aw ternoon 5 dress is also made, like ter black dress, with several tiers of crepe satin. r ' I One of her sport costumes was J beige crepella four piece "en esmDie. It-is composed of 'pleat- ee. start, knitted pull-over sweater. . ai knitted orange cardigan ' and wide wool scarf. 4 i ..it - . ijiuo jiuu-gfer ana scan are striped with wide bands of - or orange and deen brown. At th. tip of the skirt hem In front Is a narrow appuque of crange and of own. The square neck is bor dered w.tn a band of bei fa rronol. H with a tie of the same maleri- aj knotted In front. .. 1 Another sport costume is , white wool skirt and long, 'straight . coat conared with lynx fur. With it she will weara "white ;wo,sl puiwTer t with pastel colored stripes. She bought", hats . to go wun ooth costumes. " I Caesar was afflicted with bald ness, was very sensitive about It ana continually experimented with . greases in an effort to restore tne hair to the top of his head. It, is a matter of rr that he expressed himself as high ly pieasea when the Senate gran ted him permission to wear i rel crown which partially covered ia .aerecc The Mentor Mage J. a , i A.l'- t 1 , ., , - . fflHBFS CLUBS IT DiJ CHRISTMAS IDEA Leaders of .Movement Urge Presentation of Lasting Gifts To Cities . . BIKI?WE IN EVENING MODE 53 : : : .. , By Lucy Clair (Fasaioa. Expert for Central Trcn) - One wonders if the flair for the flare and the lavish use of fur on our new winter coats Is any in dication we are going to have a cold ' winter.; T So much wolf and lynx are being used this year that wolf and lynx . farms will be , the order of the day If it keens nn. Just as fox farms spring into ex istence when the fox had to sacri fice his cot to keep the modish Eves warm, f Not that fox is not also modish - at ' the moment, . but the fox is now being born for the purpose, and knows it, while the wolfs and lynx of foreign climes are preparing to mobilize against a raid. But the new coats, to say the least, are more! practical than our pencil -silhouette outer garments which we" have been wearing since the . war. The flare ' at - the hip fastening serves to furnish enough fullness to keep the : eoat well lapped to the knees thus afford ing : protection from the cold. : There is a new method, also, of handling the fur ' which keeps It from, edging, both on collar and cuffs. - The fur cuffs are set up from the. Wrist an 1 Inch or ' two, frequently . four Inches. ' and the collar is . so Ingeniously fashioned that it rises separately from the reveres and ; Is cet on the eoat -about four inches below the fin-entire length of the coat on elth- Tight, Wrist Length Sleeve Finding Favor - . . .. London : - AP British fashion experts have culled the Parisian markets for; fall styles and have decided that women in the British Isles shall wear blue In soft shades and greens in almost every tone. Gray wilt be worn to a con siderable extent and both gray and black will be worn at night. - : Tight' bodices and tight sleeves reaching to the wrists are In fav or. The daytime skirt is at least an inch longer than daring the summer. Skirts to evening gowns are decidedly longer, especially In period gowfts when they reach the anaie at the sides and back. Cloche hats retain their supre macy, nut modified helmet hats will also be worn. ; . - v Gray furs will be the most pop ular and will .he offered in every- ininr. from rabbit to astrakhan. ana chinchilla. , Fur buttonhole ornaments, especially , those made of ermine, are in favor." Ished neckline with strong tailor stitches. The fur is set on about four inches from the edge of the cloth collar. This - does two things: It prevents. the fur from matting, due to constant' rubbing against the neck, and allows he collar, to be thrown back a few Inches when" the tor becomes too warm. Of Bine Ifarbery The coat photographed at the left Is an example of this. It is of blue marbury, one of the new coatings, and presents ; the ex-. treme of the gray wolf collar and cuffs with flattering results. Note that the caffs are set high from the wrist extending to; the elbow. and that the new method of hand ling the collar makes it set put like the .whole animal fox fur. This Is, however; , unsuited to the stylish, stout figure, but then ; the stout woman has to be wary of long "fur,- anyway. Pumps of the new royal blue kid. were worn with this coat; carrying through - the mode for matching the shoes with the ensemble. V ' '. .? ; ? At the right, of the illastration is shown anoher handling of the This coat is of . black bellgrade. superior -new coating of dull fin-: ish, with facings of , natural lynx. Where so much fur is used on the body, of the coat yon will usually find the sleeves left f urless. r The neck' treatment here is : what Is known as the doable for collar. which means it Is faced with the fur inside of one side . being of the cloth. The facings extend the living and jvini U- -.J: : . - - - .. ........ j, DEADLOCKED ROMANCES : l Most of us - know at least one couple who have "gone together" for rears without getting any nearer.; to matrimony than when they first met. ; Sometimes it Is the man's .faalt, and sometimes the 'woman is averse' to. giving up ter freedom, or her job,- and the romance seems-deadlocked. What t hould one- advise' in such a case where one of the couple la dissat isfied? " - I "Dear Mrs. le: " I have been oing with a" "young 'man several -ears my senior for four years, and we are engaged. I know he Jas his mother to support, but I fco not understand him of late. i!y parents are asking questions as to our being married. .They treat him very nicely, but after he leaves they, grve . me a sermon. ' They hare tried to get me to quit. He lays beJoves me and I love him f early.- " He has a good Job. Now. iira. Lee,- do yon think I should tell him about m parents or what I hould I do for the best? , He nev rr tells me anything definite about rur marriage. . "KATIi ERINE. you - want to be married, Katherite, I think you should have an understanding with your rfl i nee. Either talk to him your l tit. or have your tavher ; talk U J:.m. If ya like to keep on si ; oa are it is nohody's tuslness h'tt jour own. Ton do rot say why you think he may be firing of y I, ! if er side, and are worn turned back over tne outsiae. uiacx xia pumps are worn with this coat. The vogue for black shoes Is com ing back. with the advent of blaek as a fashionable; fabric We will see a great deal of blaek and white again next spring.' ' ., Luxurious' in its' softly draping folds Is the evening coat of orchid tissue velvet shown In the center. "Orchid" Is not the color, but the name they have given the new tissue velvets on account of their texture. It-lends itself well to the simple classic lines of the new evening coats. This one hap pens to be in Jbeige, and with it are worn gold slippers, the lus trous kid emphasizing the shim mering texture of the lovely velvet. Paris Hair Dressers Discourage Long Locks Paris " AP Fifty-one weeks of the year hairdressers have to please their clients. But Parisian coiffeurs have one week of each year when they tell . the ladies what's what and suggest ways of bettering appearances through the salon de coiffure. This year's salon put .the hair dressers on record as hoping long hair does not come bade into fav or. Eton crops and exaggerated shingles are oat of style, but the salon showed scant sympathy with the new tendency to let the back hair grow. " Many women' . rlubs through out the country hive hit upon P new" ; Christmas- idea.; "-presenting their home towns with lasting gifts instead of indulging In tem porary charitable enterprises and leaders of the movement are urg ing wide adoption of the plan.' , . . Summing up what has been ac complished in this direction, the Woman's Home Companion points out a number of examples which can be followed in even the smal lest community. . - . . .) The Book Lover Club of Basin, Wyo., presented -the. .town with a library, the thirteen club women having only fifty- dollars with which to begin the enterprise. The small collection of books was housed in the commercial ciub and members' at first It Ok" turn 'actf ing- as librarians. Within a few monthB the club doubled the nom ber of books and after 'a fet years a house and lot was acquired and the library now flourishes with aid from direct taxation. The Friday Reading Club of Thayer, Kas. established, a circu lating library as a Christmas gift. which has now grown to wide pro portions. A small club of eighteen members in Keosaujna, lova. had no funds, but each member contri buted twenty-five cents and-ffltb the meagre nucleus ef.fou Col lars and fifty cents announced. the presentation to the town of a com munity house. The fund grew ra pidly and now a handsome build ing houses all of tne activities of the litUe town. The women of Glacier Park, a Own that is un der snow nine month's of the year, presented the public with a school and community house, all of which started with a tiny sum. In . Van Wert, Ohio, the wenens clul pre sent was a free kindergarten and in Centerdale," Iowa, a continuing course of child study was estab lished as a Christmas present. An other small community, purchased i a gift two b ue spruce trees. the planting of which started a much-needed program of beauti- fication. The community gift plat-, club leaders urge, is something that will permit any club to prove that its work It really important in the district It serves. , ' .' i Do, It At Least Hips Will B? Acc " y.tuated Agafp; Paris V " Models Show Style .- Napoleon Bonapart, - common ly spoken of as an abnormally short man, actually was of about average height. On his deathbed his ' physician, Antommarchi, found his measurement to be five feet six and. one-half inches. In his prime he was probably taller; His dwarfed appearance was as cribed to his unusually short legs The Mentor Magazine. EFFECTIVE GROUPING OF FURNITURE ; ;i iMAKES LIVlNG ROOM COMFORTABLE you will have. to he the sole judge of that, Judgltg from hU aciions. f - j . - A IlUe: girl '.writes to know If i consider 14 too young for a girl td Co out with boys. . -V - j "Dear Mrs; Lee:f I am a girl of 14.' I have not been out with any boy in all my life. : My mother thinks I am too youngV . My broth er is lTt bat she does not think him too young. ; I was asked to go with boy a : year ago, but I would not go because I. knew mother would not like It. Do you think I am too young If X do not keep late hours "and do not; go more than one or two nights a week? I GRAY EYES." I think I'd talk It over with Mother, Gray i Eyes. ; She might let you go with a boy she knows well once in a while or In a crowd. Fourteen Is f pretty young to go with boys. . Better wait year or so. 1 ' . A young .man, writes an- en couraging word to the girls who prefer , "true: blue pals" to "pet ters. : . : "Lonesome letter makes one feel there are still, some worth while girls In .this ' old world. Would like to make the acqualn-l tance of girls, who do not go In for petting, smoking and ; drinking. Give m the old-fashioned girl ev ery time. ' , i Fellow." I .; ' " I . r- MHBsaBSBSBeSSSJJ ' b B i;:uJ ' :. COOKIES rnn rur -V 11 mam IKE Does .No Harm To Twrt Kitchen Over To Them , Some Mornings i When Jane and Betty get to be about nine years old, they consid er themselves quite grown up nd want to do everything that Moth er and Nurse and Coolc do par ticularly the" fascinating things that Cook does. ; It does no harm to tarn the kit chen over, to them for a morning and under the distant supervision of Cook to let them make a few simple dishes. It does no harm and It may . do a lot of good, for, if they learn that cooking is .fun at that age, they will not. bate it half so much sometime later when It may become a necesasry. Job.: Here is a simple and easily fol lowed recipe from ;Child Life The Childrens' Own Magazine,' for making sugar rookies that ap pear in all kinds of fascinating shapes. Read it aloud to Jane and Betsy. "Put into a mixing bowl cupful butter, 1 cupful sugar, teaspoonful salt, teaspooafui ground nutmeg, l.egg (both white and yolk.) .' Beat till smooth and creamy. Add ,; tnre-elgntna cup ful of milk, and stir till well blend ed. Sift & cupful flour and put it in two neat piles at one side of the bread board or enameled ta ble' on which' you will roll out the cookies." Then sift together 2H cupfuls of flour and 1 teaspoonful of baking powder. Add this to the mixture and stir till it be comes a smooth, stiff dough. Di vide this mass Into three equal per tions, for convenience In handling. Take one of the little piles of sift ed flour and sprinkle over the cen ter 'of the board, making sure that It is well distributed. From the other pile take' flour for flouring the rolling pin and your own fin gers, which of course are spotless ly clean. Put one ef the three por tions of dough in "the center of the floured part of the board. With floury fingers pat it to make lure there are no sticky edges. Now gently roll the dough till it Is a little, thinner than you want your finished cookie to be. Dip a cut ter1 in the extra flour and cut one cooky. Dip again und cut a second, and so on till' you have cut sever al.,: Then with the pancake turn er lift them gently to the cooky pan- for; baking. r" Vy l..?When two, or better, three pan fuls are ready to begin baking, use a moderate oven 3 7 5 de grees. Watch the cookies carefully and take them out when delicate ly. browned. WhCe the last third bakes you can wash and put away all utensils and tidy the kitchen. Take the : cookies from the pans with a spatula and put them on a wire rack or.' clean Jtea , towl to cool. . Then pack them in a cokv Jar." ,v - 0-; v;::-- By MME. LIS BETH v Black and white and combina tions of the two -are seen exten sively In the evening mode..: Thft black evening frock has the advantage over the white, in that It does not show sod. It is considered the indispensable for mal frock of the woman of limit ed means, on account of its ln consptcuousne3s. As exemplified here - (left) It has touches of white to relieve it, white gardenias on the shoulder - and rhlnestone buckles on the girdle. The ma terial Is chiffon, and Margaret Liv ingstone, the model, wears black and white evening slippers with the frock. Wide, 'butterfly" sleeves are also featured in this dress. " The bouffant type of evening frock which also shows a decided droop to the back of the skirt, (right) is made of white taffeta trimmed with huge pleated flowers- of lavendar with pink posed ed : in- shoulder garniture. - Fay from waist to hemline, and repeat Webb poaed. She Feels no Blast J - By HILDA HUNT ' " The above is the sketch of a per fectly, plain rectangular room, of the usual conventional arrange ment, with only a fireplace and wide window to relieve the mon otony. You remember, I suggest ed the arrangement for the plac ing of furniture In this room, and had sketched the grouping for the opposite side of the room, and to give you a better idea of the whole I have had the artist insert a de tail sketch in the upper left cor ner. The ' room, as described in the previous article, is 16 by 1 5 feet.:;:;:-- , i;,;VT f'u . ' You'wHl note In this, grouping about the fireplace there Is a book. ease against : the wall, which bal ances' gate-legged table on the opposite side of the room, an up holstered sofa, an easy chair and reading" table to balance the win dow grouping. , The sofa is drawn out from the 'Wall and placed at the side of the fireplace, which is the proper way "to place it for comfort and the symmetrical ar rangement of the apartment. . - If the room were smaller, an easy chair with another occasional table would balance the opposite group ing. A screen is used at the back of the easy chair to protect from drafts occasioned by the opening of the door.' In this floor plan, with Its placing of furniture which by the way Is taken from one giv en by Edward Stratum Holloway, authority on. interior decorating, you will notice the furniture falls naturally Into .place. : 1 Xlght Next to Fireplace Now a word about the lighting of the room. A light on the wall next " the fireplace will be suffi cient for the bookcase, as one goes there but to take out or replace a book -not to read it. A floor lamp behind the sofa would not be amlss: Another floor lamp should be placed ,1a. the piano grouping, as thereading of mu sic requires; a good light. . There should be lamps on the two tables that are apt to be used tor read ing, the gate-legged table and the table in the center of the right wall, and of course there should be a good light over orOn the desk. We are depending . less and less these days upon side wall lights. and more and " more ' upon , wall sockets for ; floor, table and' desk lamps."? 6' ' : ". -r -:- . :":.:: . Of. course there Is still the cen ter ceiling light, and for this that covered by the inverted globe is best. An . unshaded light of any kind should : never be used for reading. Even where the globe Is frosted the light without a shade is injurious to the eyes. iTha Is one reason we see less of the wall lights and more of the individual lamps. , Better ' lighting in the homes will . - greatly reduce eye strain and - the need for: glasses. The optometrists tell us that three out of, every ten persons are now wearing glasses, and that it should be seven out of every ten, paying much of the eye trouble to ' bad I lighUng, -So fee eafful how you light your home. TUB GINGER BREAD CLOWN (Gladys Elolse Brierly In Child Life . Magazine. I have a little clown AM made of gingerbread. He'a got an icing coat That's' colored white and red. We bake him in a ran And filled him fbll.of spice. We gave him ralsii eyes And nose and mouth of rice. If I should eat my clown He'd be quite gone,' you see, : And we couldn't use him To trim our, Christmas tree. - A TTVO-STORr DREA5I . ABILENE,' Tex. Mtet dream ing of himself, making - a "flying tackle1 in a football game, HarrU Wooten. 14, grammar school grid-'thOughta. 1? Cm ' f&h MS.. . v - m - I 1 - 5 - Early showings of late winter fashions have established definite. ' ly. that women are actually gcing to have hips agafn. At leas, hips are going to be acccntuatei a fa shion writer for the Wom-a'sfl Home Companion (inds in the ad Vi vance Paris mod.lj. .This . distinct innovation of . swathed hips, so different tc im tba straight-line models 0f tU; past seasons, appears in many oi th gowns made of ti e new winter la- 1 brlcs the chief c .aracterhiic cf which are their vftresa am, j lia bility. These materials, causht rather tightly ab")nl the tii fail into draperies a ratural rnd 3g soft as spray, uneven Lem-.inea ; accentuating the -irape effect. Two especially pleasing eTenins mndels have arrived from abroad, wne ne Ing in old rose velvet and another of gold 'brocade 'in a checked j.ai tern : with 'ai tiny flower in aco square." Both are made up in the swathed-hip fashion. No trim ming is used on either of th gowns, so beautiful are the high lights of the materials themselves. Another interesting fart coa cerning the new ultra-pliable rca terials . is that slightly fade'l. or off shades are considered particu larly smart and give the wearer greater opportunity for indid uality. ; The Paris correspondent ot ths magazine finds -in the advance winter ' showings that "the grow ing popularity of the circulaily cut skirt Is partly responsible for ths closer' hip effects and the ever growing tendency towj rd flares al so' increases the trend toward hip definition.' Flares are tppeanng everywhere, directly ! skirts, off center and at 2L The effect is unusually unevx hem lines, especially for evenin gowns. .. The rage for velvet is al so particularly pronounced In Tar-Is..;,- Another swathed-hip effect was used with a chiffon and panne vel vet evening gown, to accentuate a slightly bloused bodice. Cape-Scarf Fashion i Predicted fn Paris ( Kt A ' tcrif: f d b: j-atei m l iatc . r ort rais I He Jni rit- ase Tl - like Tosu de 1 . ins cote tiud mile won ,'cbr ca'o U t wcl ton e - i i en loo le: cr Vii .'' by Ji ' j no rr rr of w ta ov of la cf V si Paris, 'AP--There is a wealth of tbingf ;tor a smart Parisian to wear around her neck these days. To scarfs, fur . cravats and hand kerchiefs for daytime, and tare capes and fichus for evening. Phil ippe et Gaston have added the cape-scarf. It is a circular cape cut to cover one shoulder "only and tie, like a scarf. In a bow at the side of the throat. The original models were added to silk afternoon dresses hut the smart cut and military swaer of- the cape-scarf makes it equally suitable for sport dresses. V The - woman who can buj" handsome broadtail coat like.this one will feel ne blasts el winter. It has a shawl collar of cocoa fox, Ornamental Backs Now Receiving Emphasis - ' Paris AP Backs are coming to the front In the dressmaking world. After long months of ultra sim plicity in the matter of backs ths designers seem to have chanred their .minds. Drapery, bows, panels and flowers are mere apt to be placed in the back than the front of evening dresses under the new system. ' Necks may be extremely decol lete, but skirts make up in lengtH for any deficiency by frequently touching the heels. There are al so a' few trains. - The seas cover about 72 per cent of the earth's surface, according to an answered question in Liber ty. j. v By Idafa. McGlone Gibson ;. - WORRY There are some bits of Ameri can slang that are" very inspiring, and "Why worry'- .was one of them. It is poor conservatism of one's will, one's individual power, one's capacity . for work, to let one's fear lead one into a sure dissipa tion of waste and energy. - For most of us this In world each day require all we can give- often it seems to take' more than we have and we allow our nerves to get frenzied, "our dispositions, to sour ana our hearts to grow cynical If we let fear counsel us. To master this corroding habit of outlook on the world we have to fight continually to view life through, clear eyes and say to our-' selves, "Why worry?" We are doing the very best we can, and nothing can be gained by worry' ing about It. . With . the : proper , ; training. "minds may be kept cheerful, ap petites keen, laughter ready, thoughts kindly :, and hearfs warm." says Jeannette. Marks, In one of her essays. , -;It is alfa question whether we make our thoughts, our master. or wnemer . we master - our iron 'star, awoke two stories be low" his bedroom window. He is out of tbe' garae now nursing hU arm that suffered dislocation, in the two-story lea. . -- - .There Is nothing splendid that may hot be the reward of the courageous.' We need never be discouraged over our work. If we only keep ourselves untouched by superficial estimates of what is worth while as well as what must be done. Today the writer had an inter view, with one of the great Ameri can captains of industry and he said "I would never consider that I waa repaid for all I have put into my work if its financial reward was all I had gotten out of it but I have lived lived to the filtest grieved and enjoyed fought md achieved yes, lived and : loved every minute of it, and I never lost heart when things looked dark est . v , . This man has made mirion of dollars, but this is how he laranj up his life of courage -4 The beeKTlTXir'the writer has ever known said when he knew he was dying; "I do not know whether 't is eternal life or eternal oblivlan, but I'll take my chance." ani haying.- said that, he closed hie eyes an! slipped through the gates to face the Great Adventure -t as fearless as he had faced every other battle every other problem he had ever known in life. For many years the writer ka8 considered, c o u r a g e physical, mental and moral the greatest of . virtues, and intolerance the nnpr" donable ein, and she has tried to live by those tenets. Memo: When ohe is able to cast out fear from one's soul and clasp courage to her heart, one knows life of its fullesU -