SPniOTHlEEG
I OFFERED BY PIS
'mart Fur Choaker Collars
j : Proving PopuIar Among ;
. Society Womeri
I'. ' . ,. -, ::
t v By HAZEL REAVI3 ; ?
' Paris AP Society women who
go south for the-winter are favor
ing the new . light weight WTap-
" around far bordered coat -design
ted especially for the fashionable
Ivha follows inrlnr mrannA - Tli.
feature of these coats Is the smart
f ur cboaker collar which forms
the only fastening; and Is a contin-
i umuu miu ui( me nec ana
; right side of the coat,-. The left
.end of the band slips under the
fur on the right shoulder and falls
.In a 'short tab. : . - ,-.
4 1 The coats coyer the dress .under
neath; entirely, protect: the chest
t from stray breezes and are uncom
monly smart in effect. Paris is
f designing them In cloth; satin and
i light colored kashas to match one-
I piece dresses. ':.;zA . -y;-
The flared, short, ult coat,
which Philisoe and Gutnn
first to show in the Paris mid-sea-;
son collections is attracting; wide
attention among professional buy
iers who see in it a possible fore-
What to Wear and How to Wear It
v.
bouse has .many two- piece suits
J with the flared Jackets whkSkre
longer in back than' In front and
i stand out In a mild ripple. arotad
f the hips, ' The one piece-dresses,-
iworn with the flare coats -navV
. . . i . .; - - m x mm x . .ssHsMaMMaMSBsasHnssBjai
. fit,- i -
- : V t V N i
mimm .. .m ' Vsl
light tops of ten elaborately em
broidered with pallletes or studded
with sllTer -and skirts of dark
blue or black. Materials are wool
broadcloths, silks and kashas.
S 1 1 Have Smdi
. " Optimism
I It Is Tery hard work,' sometimes,
f to keep one's point of Ylew optl-
j mis tic; to belleYetthat whaterer
lis, U beat.. ' '--
i as. a write wis morning, my
whole soul is In rebellion against
that part of life which, try .as we
may, we cannot change. That part
; or our aestiny that goes on and on,
inexpiicaoiy senamg to those we
; love great physical suffering which
- may only end at last in untimely
Ideath; :-, . .,v : r?
Such a destiny has just had its
I mortal ending in the death of one
r that I loTed. I cannot see. why,
uia. iuviuu5i iuv .aid yi tug
iail that was mortal of my dear
friend for - her last ranoas: wfceot
se miglit hare, had so many fa
"tnr' tn niV hnr frin?a
happy with her many acts of kind
ness r her pleasant sralles and her
' radiating personality- of goodness
and truth. - : r : ' i -.
wWhy should .this lonely-young
woman, with. Terything to lire
for, hare been stricken with . a
most agonizing and Incurable dla-
ease?
Why must she bare suffered
tortures for weeks and- months,
onlr to casa brer the border - at
;-: last? ; i :;: '
Why do not the eclentists tnrn
their . attention to. this dread dis
ease which attacks our nearest and
: dearest Just when they are most
fitted to- help on the uplifl and
gWe Joy to this gray old world?
this morning. Through blistering
tears and with bowed head I ques
tion the Tight of it all. ,
Why did my lorely- friend, who
never in all her life gare to any
one an unkind thought, who spent
her days Just doing ood, suffer
until ; those about - her days Just
doing -good, - suffer " until those
about her blessed in their hearts
that death which brought surcease
from pain, while someone else
paeses on her way blithrty leay- hIps In many
tng wreckage in her wake?
Why Is this so?
Ah God! All the sorrow, all the
tragedy all the agony of the word
ts compressed into the one word,
Why?" ;
' By Lucy Claire "
Fashion -Xxpert for Coatrml Prcsa and
.,--. Th 8ttesmaa. : '
.We're in for a seaeon of flares.
Nay, Paris Is "conceatrating oh
skirt fullness with so great ' a de
termination 'that It -h looks i as
though the flare silhouette was
back for a Jong Thla, of
course, does ; not apply i o our
sport clothes we- are bo loath to
relinquish. " It confines itself more
to afternoon and 'erening frocks.
The skirt fullness Is concentrated
in.tbe- front or. at the side, or the
flare drops In a Jabot drape from
the side waistline, achieving the
uneven hemline, Sheer materials
are more or less responsible ' for
the -change from the pencil, to the
flare silhouette.; Their soft sheer
ness needs to be exploited in drap
eries. ;' - - , ; ' ,
With the flare naturally comes a
little higher waistline. It drops to
of the ; newer
models. One exquisite creation
from Chanel, shown at the Bruck-
Weies fashion show I recently, I In
terprets the new flare and the
higher waistline. It is of 'orchid
chiffon with the skirt treatment in
UilGEf
SPOUUil
III.P1SJEIM
. . ... 1 ' .... .'
Bangle Vogue . Seems To
" Have Started Air Over.
. Againj Jlnkle Heard , ;
'Smart looic starts jvith undies
J
fective, and quite simple to ad
just. The gown was of white sa
tin with harness decollette, ' and
the sleeves ; arranged to reveal a
tiny section of the arm at the
shoulder. The skirt had its full
ness massed at the Xront and droiv
ping below the hemline. Panels
from the shoulder developed Into
a long graceful train with glitter
ing embellishments adding an ela
borate touch.
New Hosiery Shades
Found Little Darker
Today, for me, there Is no an-, a series of tiers cut circular at the
swer, ;This morning j cannot see
the s unshine, for my eyes " are
blinded, with tears.- I cannot think
of i happiness 'and ; glory,": because
the one I " tared so - well, : upon
whom X often depended for a smil
ing friendliness ; :. to give " me
strength to go through the day, is
gone. i . "
1 can only. ask for strength to
say -somewhere in the futtre
for I cannot say it now.
"Thy way Is right; and though in
following it J::''X':'
My path leads o'er the plowshare's
lurid red, ' ' '
Still will I truet Thy guidance
sore, and say, -While
yet I lift my streaming eyes
to Thee,' j
I can do nothing but question Thy will be done!'
BV MMe- MELtHARUSINSTtlW f
' ' Diets That Itednce to Beauty ;
' ' Proportions.
The two great causes of excess
fat, or obesity, are too much to
eat and not enough exercise. Of
course, there are certain physical
ailments that cause obesity and
any woman who is greatly-over-
weight and cannot ' reduce by
changing her anode of eating and
by exercising should - consult a
doctor. ; . "
Most people take in more "food
than they need to keep their tires
of .energy burning and what does
not get worked off with exercise,
: turns Intd fa. Tour body must
do something with every bit of
. food that goes into it and the lay
ers of -fat are' the .storeroom.
where It sends what it cannot use.
Your, occupation should 'deter'
mine to & large extent how much
you eat.; People.'who do physical
work need much morsr energy-
building food than the sedentary
workers. ' . V
- Important as normal weight Is
to beauty. It Is: even more so to
your general health and comfort.1
even to your length of life., Sta
tistics compiled by insurance com
panies have shown that a person
of 50 years who is 50 pounds over
weight has half the expectation of
life one of similar age and ndrmal
weight would have. ; . V '
Fat is so closely tied-up with
physical health,-, that you must be
- extremely careful to do your re
ducing la a way that l.s not going
to be harmful. Too-rapid reduc
tion is not only.bad for health, but
it it th worst thine in the world
for beauty because it makes your
face lock" old, relaxed, perhaps
hollowr unier your eyes. Etarva-
t!on la too great a eliock to .your
Eyater.i." Also, yea str -51 be care
ful not to testa violent exercise
too t?3 fifttr a r-eriod of sedent
ary r,s." rtememher tt.al ycu can
tot v-3 la a .faw vceks the re-
salt ci : -rx C otcr
- activitr. - .
yourself but select the kind of
foods that force the body to draw
upon the fat deposits to fill cer
tain" needs your eating does not
satisfy. And be satisfied twlth
throwing off two pounds a; week.
Foods to avoid are rich salad
dressing, sugar, custards, candles.
rich cakes, pies, rich gravies, sal
mon, - shad, herTlng, butter-f is.
mackeral, fat' meat such as pork,
dock and ." goose, milkshakes.
marmalades, : nuts, cream, J fried
foods, cream soups, too much po
tatoes and bread and butter.
" Cottage cheese made from skin
milk, eggs (any way except fried).
buttermilk, orange - Juice, lemon
ade' with a little sugar, tea or
black coffee ; without sugar, the
lean fish like cod, flounder, had'
dock, clams.- lobster, i etc. : -lean
meats such as beef, broiled, boiled
or "Toasted, lean chicken, turkey,
Iamb, Hamburg steak, lean ham or
bacon.- v -:i" f P "
-Yon should have plenty of veg
etables are the leafy ones and they
are most . beneficial . uncooked.
Here Is a typical day's menu
that will help you take off weight
and which I have chosen from
among thoseglven by one of the
leading dietie authorities..
Breakfast: one orange, poached
egg, two slices of lean, crisp bacon
one slice .of toast not too. thick
one can of coffee, black or with
milk- instead of cream,, no sugar.
Lunch: one dish of vegetable
soup with two soda' crackers; let
tuce and tomato salad with French
dressing containing little oil, one
roll : and butter, buttermilk.
7: Dinner: ' one : small lamb chop
one, small Daea potato, brustie
sprouts,1 celery and cabbage slaw
oae roll skim milk, and for dessert
grapefruit. ' " .
l For reducing specific parts of
the body there are certain soaps
and Jellies to be rubbed Inor you
can do much with reducing baths,
However, I must save these for
Z and ia- another week, and in my next talk
. tell you about "Diets That Culld'
front: but adopting more tailored
outlines at the back, where It
drops In a' point to the floor. Or
chid, and gold- kid slippers j, were
worn with the costume.
Its Probable Inspiration "
.This gown probably took ita in
spiration from the same Idea that
Interpreted the bouffant" :1 model
photographed on the opposite side
Here we have an evening gown of
mauve and . blue tulle, by Callot,
from the same fashion show. This
has also the tiered skirt, wjth the
short In the front, long at the sides
and back movement and te raieed
waist line. "The willowy and the
billowy,- we might call these two
entirely different interpretations
of the short In the front, long; In
me unci uerea umii iuou, ; ;
As fashion shows invariably end
with "Here, comes the bride,' I
had the photographer snap - the
bridal gown. There's room- only
for the head here, so I will de
scribe the gown, and you can see
the arrangement of the capped bri
dal veil for youreelf. : It's very ef-
Paris AP Fashionable hosiery
shades are deepening all along the
color 'card. For daytime much
deep beige and nut brown ia being
worn in Paris, along with gun
metal gray. --"';.v'';;t--.--.tvv
. -The evening shades are etlll
flesh color for wear with white
and pastel shades. Pale sunburn
hose are worn '. with black. The
smart Parisian wears hose, which
exactly match with all shades of
beige whether for daytime or ev
ening. -
Stockings are apt to be a shade
darker than' the evening dress in
stead of a shade lighter this .season.
Evening Head Dress
Again In Evidence
t . . .. y . - - p- " y
. f :' - - :. .- " -:. .. f ""i
" Paris AP The turban and
Jeweled coiffure are again popular
with some Parisians. For theater
and restaurant wear one frequent
ly sees tight-fitting toques of gold
or sliver lame, cleverly draped and
usually be-Jeweled. t : v ?
. There are a , few examples of
lame turbans to match lame even
ing wraps. Women who have let
their hair grow, or who wear tran
f orm&tions, which, continue to be
fashionable, frequently wear Jew
eled combs, or Jeweled hair pins,
By HAZEL REAYIS
PARIS. (AP) A sudden erase
for Ural stones, the white diamond
like gem from the Ural moun
tains, has swept Paris. Chains of
Ural stones in silver settings are
the most popular piece of Jewelry
of the moment. l. ; .
Parisians wear them for after
noon - and : evening, ' often with
matching bracelets and brooches.
The vogue waa started by Chan'-i
el, who shows the ornaments In a
variety of forms.' Jewelry shops
are also showing a great many of
the stones which are comparatlv
Iy Inexpensive,' although they are
classified as gems and not Imita
tion stones.
. More rhlnestone Jewelry and
less of the heavy gold and silver Is;
being worn. Slave bracelets, after
a long popularity, are going Into
retirement In favor of sparkling j
ornaments. Just as many -brace-!
lets are worn this season as last,
but they are inclined to be narrow
er and to fit closer to the arm; f '
Close fitting circlets of Jade are
fashionable for collars as well as
bracelets. : They have a hinge and
snap on like an ornamental handcuff.--
. Jangling bracelets worn by the
half dozen or the, dozen had al
most disappeared from vogue
when a famous dressmaking house
here hit upon the Idea of lacing
silver and gold'circleta together in
a series, from - two to four Inches
deep. . -
Now the bangle vogue seems to
have started all over again, and
the musical tinkle of bracelets is
again heard In smart tea and dan
cing places of an afternoon.
' A' small but Important note of
the winter style is the crystal
buckle or brooch. It often replaces
the buckle of metal on belts, can
be used for a brooch at the neck
of a blouse or as a hat ornament.
The most popular form is an ob
long. . ahout - naif tne size or a
lump of sugar. -
Style Whimslea
Highlights, of the dresses most
worn are the pointed Vionnet
neck- Hne. diversity In girdles and
the use of crepe and satin.
- A new imported woolen fabric.
wool net, Is being used for tailor
ed dresses in one and two-piece
models.; v ,m u(m .
The official uniform of the little
American, girl is plaid . flannel
skirt, silk blouee, and velveteen
Jacket according to its' popular
ity. ; - .
IS5?
- "A
I
A
'
I - ' f 1 - I I (
! I ; ' I r
- j y:. !) ? j 1 J
with ball tops.
,Mrs. , Grayson has : decided to
postpone her trans-Atlantic flight
sons that she wants to live until
after - Christmas, anyway. Eu
gene Register.
By Mme. lisbetli - " m
To be truly smart you mtTst start
with ' your underthlngs. : The
smooth, fitted lines of these un
seen but most important garments
are the foundation on which to
build .your . frock, suit, etc. . "
A garment that has the correct
lines Is pictured (left). It - is a
chemise of pink glove silk trimmed
with Jace. It Is semi-fitted and the
bodice is lined with net. It fas
tens under the left arm. Marian
Nixon poeed. v
. The use of clre taffeto in a drap
ed -evening frock is said to be the
newest material presented for the
season in dance types. It is thought
it- will "prove also an excellent
fabric for southern resort wear.'
An interesting rainy day acces
sory ensembles consists of umbrel
la and bag. ' The . umbrella, which
measures 18 Inches In length, fits
into the bag, which has compart
ments for rubbers, mirror and a
change purse. .. The bag is 14 inch-
3es In length.
There are SCI students regis-
until spring. : She probably rea-flered in the a Grande high school
according to the monthly, report
of the -city ' superintendent of
schools
PERT LITTLE HAT BECOMES THE VIVACIOUS GIRL
r
r i i ii ..,.t;,r.:, x
- ' J ' J
... i 3 J
- - - - H- V l-
V,
iii r .
do cot starve v Up Deauty Curves."
The vivacious girl and th pert Lttle hat are an unbeatable combination. A chanrinj chapeaa ef th
"(iance type is made. f black an4 silver combination chenille (1) and has a ripple : brim and. narrow
silver ribbon' band for triimrlng. . The snug little beige and brown velvet street hat (2) Js decoratet
uith curisycues felt and a rhinestone and celluloid ornanfent - The "upturned fcriw is piquant.' It U
psed cn (4) in a Lsnvin Hue velour cruahable model trimmed with blue Tosjrain ribbon spliced fa thi
crown. ; No. 4 shows the effect of a pkin black felt sports hat to set 'off an animated face. A wintel
: rcpc t "gray art designed j ;rr?y c!;th with crgy fax cct-ar (8) U tCf?r;:Slecqrtya chge&ij
REsniinu
OF ECOulMIC GROUP
Many Problems Being Stud
ied With intention of
Making Work Easier
' A little brown : dress which
might be verywell posed -over the
above lingeries Is pictured (right).
Neck and cuffs are trimmed with
real lace.It has a bloused. bodice,
tiered skirt made in circular fash-i
ion, and - la "made- of satin.f With
the gown- Barbara I Worth, - the
model wears a' tan felt- hat trim
med with brown ribbon. Bag and
gloves are of tan leather and
pumps are of tan and brown
leather. . r .- -. ' . ""
REQUIRES ONLY FEW
MINUTES
0
IfORi
Broadtail Ensemble
Things : Have Changed and
Women No Longer Need
Spend Life In Kitchen
Galley 1. woman's -J. gibbons
s Things have changed. Woman's
place Is no longer restricted to the
home, with a large share of her
time spent in the kitchen. . ,
I The - modern woman does not
neglect her home. In fact she has
made home life more inviting and
more inspiring than ever before,
because she has developed an ex
tremely efficient degree of scienti
fic management. She is a devoted
wife ; and mother, ideal, : and ?et
she has more lime for herself than
ever nfotei'? T.-;-' lz -
1 Not so long ago, bake day meant
a 'day at home and most or is in
the kitchen. .But not any more.
Baking is now a matter of minutes
rather than hours, thanks to Cal
umet, the world's greatest Baking
Powder.
Just to give you some idea of the
time and the energy that can be
saved through the use of Calumet,
let us suppose that you were to
make a batch of biscuits. It would
require only ten minutes, to pre
pare the dough and ten minutes
to bake, demanding all told only
twenty minutes of your time. And
the best part of It is every minute
counts, when you employ Calumet.
It is never necessary to rebake. be
cause there are no failures. ; And
you could not produce better ba
kings were you to devote an en
tire hour to every minute occupied
with Calumet
Calumet makes possible greater
baking speed and also a far finer
quality of foods. It enables the
housewife to supply her. family
with healthful end easily, digested
bakings. It also enables her to de
vote more time to her own person
al Interests, ,
' i 1
:A f
two-? s . t: : f I
It A iI
h ; i 17
v i'z:3
j ;i '1
1? . ! . . -
f - ?
S ota
Housewife
av MARJORtE K. RAW LINGS
The Master Artist
There are no ugly gardens; -The
colors all combine-- -
With taste and grace more certain
Than artistry of mine.
Flowers always "go together."
No combination's "wrong:"
For each bouquet is perfect,
Harmonious as a song. .
There is no garish clashing
Of yellows, pinks and blues, 0
Because a Master Artist -
Blended and planned the hues.
Strayed: .A lup-
The spotted pup who came and
went
. each day.
Who seemed so lazy and eon-
tent, ' . '
Packed up his' fleas and maved
away. .
Soma other housewife saves him
-. bones.
Scratches his ears and pats his
; head.
Wipes up his muddy tracks and
groans.
And spreads behind the stove his
bed.
I wish her Jcy of him. EheH start
To love take heed! his ways
, and then.
Be warned! One day he'll . break
; - her heart. -
Born tramp, he; will be' off
again!
Jead the Classified Ads
Washington AP IIouseholQ"
work will be easier, more efficient j
and more satisfactory for the wo- 1
men engaged in it, believes the De-
partment of Agriculture after trve
years ot scientific research into
problems ircidental to homemak
lng, -: : . .. "
. Headed by Miss Louise Stanley,
former director of home economics
at the University ot Missouri, a
staff of 25 specialists has been
working on laboratory problems or
statistical analyses in three main
fields.. These are foods and nu
tritions,, economic studies, cloth
ing and .textiles. . Other sections
are planned for the future.
The bureau has no. field work
ers but cooperates with those of
other bureaus which may be auth
orising surveys or other types of
investigation. Home economics in
formation is Issued by means of
published materials, such as Far
mer's Bulletins, circulars, mimeo
graphed reports and press articles
and through educational channels,
such as the cooperative extension
work and teachers of home eco
nomics.
A large correspondence with in
dividuals translates laboratory re
sults Into terms which can be ap
plied by the average housewife to
her own problems. Household in
formation is also prepared for
broadcasting.
The division of foods and nutri
tion Is interested in whatever per
tains to normal,' wholesome diet,
food-selection . and meal planning.
Bulletins have been issued deal
in? with good proportions In the
diet, or with means and ways of
using particular foods. , ,
. A large number of household ac
counts are being summarized , by
the economic division to determine
family standards of living. A cir
cular has been prepared to aid in'
planning family expendituresv The
housewife's use 'of her- time in do
ing; her work is being studied, to
determine In what , ways womn
can use their time to better .advan
tage. .- : ; . - -V .; -,--v -The
division of clothing and tex
tiles is Interested in information
enabling the homemaker to select
fabrics cr clothing more confident-
ly and more economically.;?' Al
many women do the major part of
the family.-Bewing, this division is
also occupied with problems of
clothing construction A bulletin
on fitting has toeen issued - Bulle
tins are also Issued onhomeJlaun
dering and stain removal.:' "
. A blouse of gold metal cloth
Is worn -with this broadtail- en
semble, with collar and cuffs of
took. - .
Dress Ornaments Now
Made of Jade and Coral
Winter Sport Girl
Selects Bright Colors
Paris . AP The newest piece of
costume jewelery to be adopted by
Paris is the big ball for lozenge
shaped pendant which Is attached
to the blouse or dress with the
wrap-around or side closing, at the
leftside of the blouse, high up.
jaue green or pina, -coral, cor
nelian, amber and crystal are used
for the pendants but Jade is by far
the most popular. Sometimes two
of the pendants are used but -the
precedent followed "by the smartest
designers is only one'.. ,The orna
ments are equally popular for silk
or woolen costumes. - '
Paris AP Fuzzy and brit
are words to reckon with in pick
ing a winter sport costume. Paris
luciBis on one or pom elements in
the togs for skiing, tobogganing,
skating," curling mountain climb
ing and all the other Ings" of the
snow countries. -
" Long knickers -which tuck into
galoshes are the universal choice
for - snow sports. Paris shows
them in fleecy navy blues, dark
browns, and dark greens '.with
fleece-lined jackets in bright check
plaids, or stripes, to match. Un
der the jacket is a pull-over sweat
er. :r : "' : :
: Aviation helmets are advocated'
for winter sports wear by some
outf iters and are shown In a va
riety of colored leathers. ' ,
Mvmfi dud LoyihA
v -rV BY MPS. VlPGIMI A LE V-f
Appreciating Motlier
Once -a day we celebrate Moth
er's Day. How many of us value
mothers as we should -all the other
days of the year? - Far; that mat-
as we should all the members of
ter, do We fully prize. "and enjoy
our families? In after years when
the family Is scattered some gone
forever -we look back on our
young days at home, as our hap
piest period. Why ; not make It
such, refusing to bicker, find
fault and misunderstand? :
The writer ot. the letter follow
ing rherself motherlesa--wonders
why so many, girls prefer to con
fide In some one else instead of
their mothers:
"Dear airs. L.ee: I wrote to
you a few months ago, ' - Do 1 you
remember me? Just: a plain girl.
My life is still embedded with
thorns, but 1 think we must: taste
both the bitter and the sweet;' Do
you agree? . . -
"I am still an ardent reader of
your column and -sometimes the
letters are, wonderiul ajid often
they are amusing. -What Is both
ering me is this: why do girls with
mothers write you' tfieir troubles?
I've been in houses where girls
bossed , their jnothert as if they
were common servants. ; I wish
each , girl who treats her mother
d isres pectfully would . just try liv
ing in a boarding house awhile
Mrs. Lee, I think women like you
were ; meant for girls like me.
told you before I had no mother.
father nor sister. ;
A GIRL WHO IS LEARNING
'' '. . ': ". - LIFE
Anil inttprs like vour make the
writing of a column like this seen?
w vi . Ana yo: T rpr-
tainly do remember your flr6r let
ter, and agree that bravely taking
the bitter , with the -sweet s me
way to live, i It is sad, but often
there is a wall of reserve between
mother and daughter that neither
seems able to break, which" makes
it easier to confide in a strangen
How shall she hold his love and
should she tell him her past mis
takes are the two questions, asked
in the next leter:
"Dear Mrs." Lee: f I am a young
girl' 21 years old and am" in love
with a man who is 27. I let bim
make love to me all the time and
I know that. I let him d ? St too
much, but I love him so j u I
cannot resist. He has never
tioned marriage and I am afmid
he will grow tired of me,, Can you
advise me what to do? How can
I hold him? , - ' - - ,
'When I was about 13 1 got ac
quainted with a set of girls who
led ' me Into being wild. - If be
should ask elb to ' marry him,
suouia a leu mm or iorgei iw
- ; - MADGE.
One holds, one's friends of both
sexes by being interestlnyr and a
good sport, Madge. Keep awalie,
mentally and in good he .i V phy
sically. ; No, don't tell nyc-ne
about the mistake you i..- when
iTOu were a little ?rl. Tr"ft it.