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About The Oregon statesman. (Salem, Or.) 1916-1980 | View Entire Issue (Nov. 20, 1927)
SPniOTHlEEG I OFFERED BY PIS 'mart Fur Choaker Collars j : Proving PopuIar Among ; . Society Womeri I'. ' . ,. -, :: t v By HAZEL REAVI3 ; ? ' Paris AP Society women who go south for the-winter are favor ing the new . light weight WTap- " around far bordered coat -design ted especially for the fashionable Ivha follows inrlnr mrannA - Tli. feature of these coats Is the smart f ur cboaker collar which forms the only fastening; and Is a contin- i umuu miu ui( me nec ana ; right side of the coat,-. The left .end of the band slips under the fur on the right shoulder and falls .In a 'short tab. : . - ,-. 4 1 The coats coyer the dress .under neath; entirely, protect: the chest t from stray breezes and are uncom monly smart in effect. Paris is f designing them In cloth; satin and i light colored kashas to match one- I piece dresses. ':.;zA . -y;- The flared, short, ult coat, which Philisoe and Gutnn first to show in the Paris mid-sea-; son collections is attracting; wide attention among professional buy iers who see in it a possible fore- What to Wear and How to Wear It v. bouse has .many two- piece suits J with the flared Jackets whkSkre longer in back than' In front and i stand out In a mild ripple. arotad f the hips, ' The one piece-dresses,- iworn with the flare coats -navV . . . i . .; - - m x mm x . .ssHsMaMMaMSBsasHnssBjai . fit,- i - - : V t V N i mimm .. .m ' Vsl light tops of ten elaborately em broidered with pallletes or studded with sllTer -and skirts of dark blue or black. Materials are wool broadcloths, silks and kashas. S 1 1 Have Smdi . " Optimism I It Is Tery hard work,' sometimes, f to keep one's point of Ylew optl- j mis tic; to belleYetthat whaterer lis, U beat.. ' '-- i as. a write wis morning, my whole soul is In rebellion against that part of life which, try .as we may, we cannot change. That part ; or our aestiny that goes on and on, inexpiicaoiy senamg to those we ; love great physical suffering which - may only end at last in untimely Ideath; :-, . .,v : r? Such a destiny has just had its I mortal ending in the death of one r that I loTed. I cannot see. why, uia. iuviuu5i iuv .aid yi tug iail that was mortal of my dear friend for - her last ranoas: wfceot se miglit hare, had so many fa "tnr' tn niV hnr frin?a happy with her many acts of kind ness r her pleasant sralles and her ' radiating personality- of goodness and truth. - : r : ' i -. wWhy should .this lonely-young woman, with. Terything to lire for, hare been stricken with . a most agonizing and Incurable dla- ease? Why must she bare suffered tortures for weeks and- months, onlr to casa brer the border - at ;-: last? ; i :;: ' Why do not the eclentists tnrn their . attention to. this dread dis ease which attacks our nearest and : dearest Just when they are most fitted to- help on the uplifl and gWe Joy to this gray old world? this morning. Through blistering tears and with bowed head I ques tion the Tight of it all. , Why did my lorely- friend, who never in all her life gare to any one an unkind thought, who spent her days Just doing ood, suffer until ; those about - her days Just doing -good, - suffer " until those about her blessed in their hearts that death which brought surcease from pain, while someone else paeses on her way blithrty leay- hIps In many tng wreckage in her wake? Why Is this so? Ah God! All the sorrow, all the tragedy all the agony of the word ts compressed into the one word, Why?" ; ' By Lucy Claire " Fashion -Xxpert for Coatrml Prcsa and .,--. Th 8ttesmaa. : ' .We're in for a seaeon of flares. Nay, Paris Is "conceatrating oh skirt fullness with so great ' a de termination 'that It -h looks i as though the flare silhouette was back for a Jong Thla, of course, does ; not apply i o our sport clothes we- are bo loath to relinquish. " It confines itself more to afternoon and 'erening frocks. The skirt fullness Is concentrated in.tbe- front or. at the side, or the flare drops In a Jabot drape from the side waistline, achieving the uneven hemline, Sheer materials are more or less responsible ' for the -change from the pencil, to the flare silhouette.; Their soft sheer ness needs to be exploited in drap eries. ;' - - , ; ' , With the flare naturally comes a little higher waistline. It drops to of the ; newer models. One exquisite creation from Chanel, shown at the Bruck- Weies fashion show I recently, I In terprets the new flare and the higher waistline. It is of 'orchid chiffon with the skirt treatment in UilGEf SPOUUil III.P1SJEIM . . ... 1 ' .... .' Bangle Vogue . Seems To " Have Started Air Over. . Againj Jlnkle Heard , ; 'Smart looic starts jvith undies J fective, and quite simple to ad just. The gown was of white sa tin with harness decollette, ' and the sleeves ; arranged to reveal a tiny section of the arm at the shoulder. The skirt had its full ness massed at the Xront and droiv ping below the hemline. Panels from the shoulder developed Into a long graceful train with glitter ing embellishments adding an ela borate touch. New Hosiery Shades Found Little Darker Today, for me, there Is no an-, a series of tiers cut circular at the swer, ;This morning j cannot see the s unshine, for my eyes " are blinded, with tears.- I cannot think of i happiness 'and ; glory,": because the one I " tared so - well, : upon whom X often depended for a smil ing friendliness ; :. to give " me strength to go through the day, is gone. i . " 1 can only. ask for strength to say -somewhere in the futtre for I cannot say it now. "Thy way Is right; and though in following it J::''X':' My path leads o'er the plowshare's lurid red, ' ' ' Still will I truet Thy guidance sore, and say, -While yet I lift my streaming eyes to Thee,' j I can do nothing but question Thy will be done!' BV MMe- MELtHARUSINSTtlW f ' ' Diets That Itednce to Beauty ; ' ' Proportions. The two great causes of excess fat, or obesity, are too much to eat and not enough exercise. Of course, there are certain physical ailments that cause obesity and any woman who is greatly-over- weight and cannot ' reduce by changing her anode of eating and by exercising should - consult a doctor. ; . " Most people take in more "food than they need to keep their tires of .energy burning and what does not get worked off with exercise, : turns Intd fa. Tour body must do something with every bit of . food that goes into it and the lay ers of -fat are' the .storeroom. where It sends what it cannot use. Your, occupation should 'deter' mine to & large extent how much you eat.; People.'who do physical work need much morsr energy- building food than the sedentary workers. ' . V - Important as normal weight Is to beauty. It Is: even more so to your general health and comfort.1 even to your length of life., Sta tistics compiled by insurance com panies have shown that a person of 50 years who is 50 pounds over weight has half the expectation of life one of similar age and ndrmal weight would have. ; . V ' Fat is so closely tied-up with physical health,-, that you must be - extremely careful to do your re ducing la a way that l.s not going to be harmful. Too-rapid reduc tion is not only.bad for health, but it it th worst thine in the world for beauty because it makes your face lock" old, relaxed, perhaps hollowr unier your eyes. Etarva- t!on la too great a eliock to .your Eyater.i." Also, yea str -51 be care ful not to testa violent exercise too t?3 fifttr a r-eriod of sedent ary r,s." rtememher tt.al ycu can tot v-3 la a .faw vceks the re- salt ci : -rx C otcr - activitr. - . yourself but select the kind of foods that force the body to draw upon the fat deposits to fill cer tain" needs your eating does not satisfy. And be satisfied twlth throwing off two pounds a; week. Foods to avoid are rich salad dressing, sugar, custards, candles. rich cakes, pies, rich gravies, sal mon, - shad, herTlng, butter-f is. mackeral, fat' meat such as pork, dock and ." goose, milkshakes. marmalades, : nuts, cream, J fried foods, cream soups, too much po tatoes and bread and butter. " Cottage cheese made from skin milk, eggs (any way except fried). buttermilk, orange - Juice, lemon ade' with a little sugar, tea or black coffee ; without sugar, the lean fish like cod, flounder, had' dock, clams.- lobster, i etc. : -lean meats such as beef, broiled, boiled or "Toasted, lean chicken, turkey, Iamb, Hamburg steak, lean ham or bacon.- v -:i" f P " -Yon should have plenty of veg etables are the leafy ones and they are most . beneficial . uncooked. Here Is a typical day's menu that will help you take off weight and which I have chosen from among thoseglven by one of the leading dietie authorities.. Breakfast: one orange, poached egg, two slices of lean, crisp bacon one slice .of toast not too. thick one can of coffee, black or with milk- instead of cream,, no sugar. Lunch: one dish of vegetable soup with two soda' crackers; let tuce and tomato salad with French dressing containing little oil, one roll : and butter, buttermilk. 7: Dinner: ' one : small lamb chop one, small Daea potato, brustie sprouts,1 celery and cabbage slaw oae roll skim milk, and for dessert grapefruit. ' " . l For reducing specific parts of the body there are certain soaps and Jellies to be rubbed Inor you can do much with reducing baths, However, I must save these for Z and ia- another week, and in my next talk . tell you about "Diets That Culld' front: but adopting more tailored outlines at the back, where It drops In a' point to the floor. Or chid, and gold- kid slippers j, were worn with the costume. Its Probable Inspiration " .This gown probably took ita in spiration from the same Idea that Interpreted the bouffant" :1 model photographed on the opposite side Here we have an evening gown of mauve and . blue tulle, by Callot, from the same fashion show. This has also the tiered skirt, wjth the short In the front, long at the sides and back movement and te raieed waist line. "The willowy and the billowy,- we might call these two entirely different interpretations of the short In the front, long; In me unci uerea umii iuou, ; ; As fashion shows invariably end with "Here, comes the bride,' I had the photographer snap - the bridal gown. There's room- only for the head here, so I will de scribe the gown, and you can see the arrangement of the capped bri dal veil for youreelf. : It's very ef- Paris AP Fashionable hosiery shades are deepening all along the color 'card. For daytime much deep beige and nut brown ia being worn in Paris, along with gun metal gray. --"';.v'';;t--.--.tvv . -The evening shades are etlll flesh color for wear with white and pastel shades. Pale sunburn hose are worn '. with black. The smart Parisian wears hose, which exactly match with all shades of beige whether for daytime or ev ening. - Stockings are apt to be a shade darker than' the evening dress in stead of a shade lighter this .season. Evening Head Dress Again In Evidence t . . .. y . - - p- " y . f :' - - :. .- " -:. .. f ""i " Paris AP The turban and Jeweled coiffure are again popular with some Parisians. For theater and restaurant wear one frequent ly sees tight-fitting toques of gold or sliver lame, cleverly draped and usually be-Jeweled. t : v ? . There are a , few examples of lame turbans to match lame even ing wraps. Women who have let their hair grow, or who wear tran f orm&tions, which, continue to be fashionable, frequently wear Jew eled combs, or Jeweled hair pins, By HAZEL REAYIS PARIS. (AP) A sudden erase for Ural stones, the white diamond like gem from the Ural moun tains, has swept Paris. Chains of Ural stones in silver settings are the most popular piece of Jewelry of the moment. l. ; . Parisians wear them for after noon - and : evening, ' often with matching bracelets and brooches. The vogue waa started by Chan'-i el, who shows the ornaments In a variety of forms.' Jewelry shops are also showing a great many of the stones which are comparatlv Iy Inexpensive,' although they are classified as gems and not Imita tion stones. . More rhlnestone Jewelry and less of the heavy gold and silver Is; being worn. Slave bracelets, after a long popularity, are going Into retirement In favor of sparkling j ornaments. Just as many -brace-! lets are worn this season as last, but they are inclined to be narrow er and to fit closer to the arm; f ' Close fitting circlets of Jade are fashionable for collars as well as bracelets. : They have a hinge and snap on like an ornamental handcuff.-- . Jangling bracelets worn by the half dozen or the, dozen had al most disappeared from vogue when a famous dressmaking house here hit upon the Idea of lacing silver and gold'circleta together in a series, from - two to four Inches deep. . - Now the bangle vogue seems to have started all over again, and the musical tinkle of bracelets is again heard In smart tea and dan cing places of an afternoon. ' A' small but Important note of the winter style is the crystal buckle or brooch. It often replaces the buckle of metal on belts, can be used for a brooch at the neck of a blouse or as a hat ornament. The most popular form is an ob long. . ahout - naif tne size or a lump of sugar. - Style Whimslea Highlights, of the dresses most worn are the pointed Vionnet neck- Hne. diversity In girdles and the use of crepe and satin. - A new imported woolen fabric. wool net, Is being used for tailor ed dresses in one and two-piece models.; v ,m u(m . The official uniform of the little American, girl is plaid . flannel skirt, silk blouee, and velveteen Jacket according to its' popular ity. ; - . IS5? - "A I A ' I - ' f 1 - I I ( ! I ; ' I r - j y:. !) ? j 1 J with ball tops. ,Mrs. , Grayson has : decided to postpone her trans-Atlantic flight sons that she wants to live until after - Christmas, anyway. Eu gene Register. By Mme. lisbetli - " m To be truly smart you mtTst start with ' your underthlngs. : The smooth, fitted lines of these un seen but most important garments are the foundation on which to build .your . frock, suit, etc. . " A garment that has the correct lines Is pictured (left). It - is a chemise of pink glove silk trimmed with Jace. It Is semi-fitted and the bodice is lined with net. It fas tens under the left arm. Marian Nixon poeed. v . The use of clre taffeto in a drap ed -evening frock is said to be the newest material presented for the season in dance types. It is thought it- will "prove also an excellent fabric for southern resort wear.' An interesting rainy day acces sory ensembles consists of umbrel la and bag. ' The . umbrella, which measures 18 Inches In length, fits into the bag, which has compart ments for rubbers, mirror and a change purse. .. The bag is 14 inch- 3es In length. There are SCI students regis- until spring. : She probably rea-flered in the a Grande high school according to the monthly, report of the -city ' superintendent of schools PERT LITTLE HAT BECOMES THE VIVACIOUS GIRL r r i i ii ..,.t;,r.:, x - ' J ' J ... i 3 J - - - - H- V l- V, iii r . do cot starve v Up Deauty Curves." The vivacious girl and th pert Lttle hat are an unbeatable combination. A chanrinj chapeaa ef th "(iance type is made. f black an4 silver combination chenille (1) and has a ripple : brim and. narrow silver ribbon' band for triimrlng. . The snug little beige and brown velvet street hat (2) Js decoratet uith curisycues felt and a rhinestone and celluloid ornanfent - The "upturned fcriw is piquant.' It U psed cn (4) in a Lsnvin Hue velour cruahable model trimmed with blue Tosjrain ribbon spliced fa thi crown. ; No. 4 shows the effect of a pkin black felt sports hat to set 'off an animated face. A wintel : rcpc t "gray art designed j ;rr?y c!;th with crgy fax cct-ar (8) U tCf?r;:Slecqrtya chge&ij REsniinu OF ECOulMIC GROUP Many Problems Being Stud ied With intention of Making Work Easier ' A little brown : dress which might be verywell posed -over the above lingeries Is pictured (right). Neck and cuffs are trimmed with real lace.It has a bloused. bodice, tiered skirt made in circular fash-i ion, and - la "made- of satin.f With the gown- Barbara I Worth, - the model wears a' tan felt- hat trim med with brown ribbon. Bag and gloves are of tan leather and pumps are of tan and brown leather. . r .- -. ' . "" REQUIRES ONLY FEW MINUTES 0 IfORi Broadtail Ensemble Things : Have Changed and Women No Longer Need Spend Life In Kitchen Galley 1. woman's -J. gibbons s Things have changed. Woman's place Is no longer restricted to the home, with a large share of her time spent in the kitchen. . , I The - modern woman does not neglect her home. In fact she has made home life more inviting and more inspiring than ever before, because she has developed an ex tremely efficient degree of scienti fic management. She is a devoted wife ; and mother, ideal, : and ?et she has more lime for herself than ever nfotei'? T.-;-' lz - 1 Not so long ago, bake day meant a 'day at home and most or is in the kitchen. .But not any more. Baking is now a matter of minutes rather than hours, thanks to Cal umet, the world's greatest Baking Powder. Just to give you some idea of the time and the energy that can be saved through the use of Calumet, let us suppose that you were to make a batch of biscuits. It would require only ten minutes, to pre pare the dough and ten minutes to bake, demanding all told only twenty minutes of your time. And the best part of It is every minute counts, when you employ Calumet. It is never necessary to rebake. be cause there are no failures. ; And you could not produce better ba kings were you to devote an en tire hour to every minute occupied with Calumet Calumet makes possible greater baking speed and also a far finer quality of foods. It enables the housewife to supply her. family with healthful end easily, digested bakings. It also enables her to de vote more time to her own person al Interests, , ' i 1 :A f two-? s . t: : f I It A iI h ; i 17 v i'z:3 j ;i '1 1? . ! . . - f - ? S ota Housewife av MARJORtE K. RAW LINGS The Master Artist There are no ugly gardens; -The colors all combine-- - With taste and grace more certain Than artistry of mine. Flowers always "go together." No combination's "wrong:" For each bouquet is perfect, Harmonious as a song. . There is no garish clashing Of yellows, pinks and blues, 0 Because a Master Artist - Blended and planned the hues. Strayed: .A lup- The spotted pup who came and went . each day. Who seemed so lazy and eon- tent, ' . ' Packed up his' fleas and maved away. . Soma other housewife saves him -. bones. Scratches his ears and pats his ; head. Wipes up his muddy tracks and groans. And spreads behind the stove his bed. I wish her Jcy of him. EheH start To love take heed! his ways , and then. Be warned! One day he'll . break ; - her heart. - Born tramp, he; will be' off again! Jead the Classified Ads Washington AP IIouseholQ" work will be easier, more efficient j and more satisfactory for the wo- 1 men engaged in it, believes the De- partment of Agriculture after trve years ot scientific research into problems ircidental to homemak lng, -: : . .. " . Headed by Miss Louise Stanley, former director of home economics at the University ot Missouri, a staff of 25 specialists has been working on laboratory problems or statistical analyses in three main fields.. These are foods and nu tritions,, economic studies, cloth ing and .textiles. . Other sections are planned for the future. The bureau has no. field work ers but cooperates with those of other bureaus which may be auth orising surveys or other types of investigation. Home economics in formation is Issued by means of published materials, such as Far mer's Bulletins, circulars, mimeo graphed reports and press articles and through educational channels, such as the cooperative extension work and teachers of home eco nomics. A large correspondence with in dividuals translates laboratory re sults Into terms which can be ap plied by the average housewife to her own problems. Household in formation is also prepared for broadcasting. The division of foods and nutri tion Is interested in whatever per tains to normal,' wholesome diet, food-selection . and meal planning. Bulletins have been issued deal in? with good proportions In the diet, or with means and ways of using particular foods. , , . A large number of household ac counts are being summarized , by the economic division to determine family standards of living. A cir cular has been prepared to aid in' planning family expendituresv The housewife's use 'of her- time in do ing; her work is being studied, to determine In what , ways womn can use their time to better .advan tage. .- : ; . - -V .; -,--v -The division of clothing and tex tiles is Interested in information enabling the homemaker to select fabrics cr clothing more confident- ly and more economically.;?' Al many women do the major part of the family.-Bewing, this division is also occupied with problems of clothing construction A bulletin on fitting has toeen issued - Bulle tins are also Issued onhomeJlaun dering and stain removal.:' " . A blouse of gold metal cloth Is worn -with this broadtail- en semble, with collar and cuffs of took. - . Dress Ornaments Now Made of Jade and Coral Winter Sport Girl Selects Bright Colors Paris . AP The newest piece of costume jewelery to be adopted by Paris is the big ball for lozenge shaped pendant which Is attached to the blouse or dress with the wrap-around or side closing, at the leftside of the blouse, high up. jaue green or pina, -coral, cor nelian, amber and crystal are used for the pendants but Jade is by far the most popular. Sometimes two of the pendants are used but -the precedent followed "by the smartest designers is only one'.. ,The orna ments are equally popular for silk or woolen costumes. - ' Paris AP Fuzzy and brit are words to reckon with in pick ing a winter sport costume. Paris luciBis on one or pom elements in the togs for skiing, tobogganing, skating," curling mountain climb ing and all the other Ings" of the snow countries. - " Long knickers -which tuck into galoshes are the universal choice for - snow sports. Paris shows them in fleecy navy blues, dark browns, and dark greens '.with fleece-lined jackets in bright check plaids, or stripes, to match. Un der the jacket is a pull-over sweat er. :r : "' : : : Aviation helmets are advocated' for winter sports wear by some outf iters and are shown In a va riety of colored leathers. ' , Mvmfi dud LoyihA v -rV BY MPS. VlPGIMI A LE V-f Appreciating Motlier Once -a day we celebrate Moth er's Day. How many of us value mothers as we should -all the other days of the year? - Far; that mat- as we should all the members of ter, do We fully prize. "and enjoy our families? In after years when the family Is scattered some gone forever -we look back on our young days at home, as our hap piest period. Why ; not make It such, refusing to bicker, find fault and misunderstand? : The writer ot. the letter follow ing rherself motherlesa--wonders why so many, girls prefer to con fide In some one else instead of their mothers: "Dear airs. L.ee: I wrote to you a few months ago, ' - Do 1 you remember me? Just: a plain girl. My life is still embedded with thorns, but 1 think we must: taste both the bitter and the sweet;' Do you agree? . . - "I am still an ardent reader of your column and -sometimes the letters are, wonderiul ajid often they are amusing. -What Is both ering me is this: why do girls with mothers write you' tfieir troubles? I've been in houses where girls bossed , their jnothert as if they were common servants. ; I wish each , girl who treats her mother d isres pectfully would . just try liv ing in a boarding house awhile Mrs. Lee, I think women like you were ; meant for girls like me. told you before I had no mother. father nor sister. ; A GIRL WHO IS LEARNING '' '. . ': ". - LIFE Anil inttprs like vour make the writing of a column like this seen? w vi . Ana yo: T rpr- tainly do remember your flr6r let ter, and agree that bravely taking the bitter , with the -sweet s me way to live, i It is sad, but often there is a wall of reserve between mother and daughter that neither seems able to break, which" makes it easier to confide in a strangen How shall she hold his love and should she tell him her past mis takes are the two questions, asked in the next leter: "Dear Mrs." Lee: f I am a young girl' 21 years old and am" in love with a man who is 27. I let bim make love to me all the time and I know that. I let him d ? St too much, but I love him so j u I cannot resist. He has never tioned marriage and I am afmid he will grow tired of me,, Can you advise me what to do? How can I hold him? , - ' - - , 'When I was about 13 1 got ac quainted with a set of girls who led ' me Into being wild. - If be should ask elb to ' marry him, suouia a leu mm or iorgei iw - ; - MADGE. One holds, one's friends of both sexes by being interestlnyr and a good sport, Madge. Keep awalie, mentally and in good he .i V phy sically. ; No, don't tell nyc-ne about the mistake you i..- when iTOu were a little ?rl. Tr"ft it.