TIIE OREGON STATESMAN, SALEM. OREGON SUNDAY MORNING, MARCII 20, 1927 in Windows Indicate Nearness of ' Sprihgtinw Fashions Displayed 5' I. I. AT Ladle, of Paris, II t.:'. Kw :!. !L' ' . .. - 1 GABoeHOf X t Jr I i r-': y j f 1 I vw5 .."T The Host ComplftW 1 l I ml Famcho4 TMe I tm Costumgt I C9WAft0FRSSCML I . . .-gj,, - - Z m . J MILWAUKEE. Wis. Lucille, the great Parisian couturiere, is now designing hose for American women. Not only is the famous Lucile creating some of the most dazzling ball gowns and street dresses in the world for American iromen, but now the supreme dress Ti designer is seeing to it that the shades of the hosiery worn in ,'merica are in accord with the , . -Opinions of the moment. r,i,When the Holeproof Hosiery company announced that Lucile was creating the colors for our s Contrasting Colors Used for Straps, Heels and Bind ;ifigs of Stylish Shoe Hence, loathed monotony! No shoe is worthy of the name unless it combines two leathers or two colors. The spirit of the season seems to be that of combination, and that spirit is certainly most slavishly followed in the realm of footwear. Peace and quiet and an ven trend of life seem to be bor- VARIED EVIARK SMART SHOE 'Ming the devotees of fashion, so they turn for solace to their lothes, amusing themselves by eing into what kmall details they can bring variety. Let the shoe itself be of be.igp kid. Then its strap, or heel, o binding. Imust be of a darker shade. Such variety of treatment gives the designers of shoes grea play for their fancy, and never be fore have they exercised it to such advantage. Shoes are- no longer merely foot coverings, necessary evils, all made on a mold like horseshoes. No, they have indiv uality and personality, and smart shoes add the finishing touch to : costume which no other accessory can supply. This season's are ex quisitely designed, beautifullv faslioned. and exceedingly graci ful. Another reason for the impo.-t ante of shoes in the world of fash lop ; the increasing brevity o; skf'-tr. Naturally enough, wher only the tip f the shoe was -iis-cernable. no one paid much atten tion to them. It is a different fti.ry when, knee length skirts con centrate all attention on th retch between knees and floor r To be well turned out. modish stockings and shoes are absolute y essential. The high heel is the only one for thnce who would be - absolutely correct. If you are one of those who can gracefully manipulate the three inch, slender spike heel so much the better.. Your evening slippers and your afternoon foot wear may choose as high heels a your fancy dictates, and your street shoes can wear Cuban . 01 Spanish heels pf practically the same height. The only difference between the spike heel and "the modern Cuban heel is the width or girth, as in height htey are nearly equal. However, there Is one danger In the very" high heel, and that is Us ad$?hon . by those whom Nature was so unkind as to present with weak ankles. A gentleman, re marked upon the number of bound ankles and limping ladle that one sees nowadays, and could ot imagine how such an epidem ic of sprained ankles arose. HI? ideas on the subject were that that disability was not contagious! A word to the wise Is sufficient, and after one sad experience, most weak-limbed women will avoid the rery high heel. The lower heels are eleverjy design gd. so ,thattthey give th appearances of height, &d they. will. aava. doctor's bills Creates Hosiery Shades for America women's hose, it was an historic moment for American styles," de clared Edward Freschl, president of the company. "This is the first time that a world celebrity like Lucile of Paris, in the making of exquisite pictures from fabrics that are to adorn and enhance woman's loveliness, has ever com pleted the work by creating also the hosiery shades. Lucile in do ing this for ua has made it pos sible for all American women Jo have the very latest word in hos and inconvenience. On the golf course, of course, low heels are entirely au fait, in fact they are absolutely essential. What would not the Greens Com mittee do to a young lady who walked over the fairway, leaving tiny little heelprints here and there to mar their efforts! But even in the golf shoe, the femi nizing influence is felt. The "brogues" of former years are still worn, bu .the most popular golf shoe today is the Peal oxford. Designed by an Englishman bear ing that cognomen, his shoes have been copied all over the world, and they are among the most com fortable and smartest shoes used for sports today. The toe is usu ally of the rounded, box type, adorned with perforations. The heel is a low Cuban, and its leath er lacings cross the open-cut in step twice, then tie with a tassel to top them off. Lizard Skin Smartest of Reptile Leathers Still does the, voice of the snake charm Eve, and he brings into the conversation also his close rela tions, the lizard and the alligator. In fact, the lizard has played false towards his sponsor and now out shines in popularity the other rep tile leathers. Be that as it may, there can now be no question of the fact that these novel and interesting leath ars are in to stay. They have now joined the ranks of the familiat kid and calf. They are used eith ar to carry out the popular com bination note, or stand alone, at hey can so easily and elegantlj 1o. The greys from light to dark ind the beiges and darker tan; can all be found developed in sonu one of these leathers. As dress shades turn from dar eds and greens to Jight blues jrey's and tans, so shoes turn fron winter's dark colors to blonde anc ?rey kid. Blonde kid harmonize! vith tan. rose," beige, green, whih rey is a fit accompaniment to th ostume of grey, blue or ros, hades. It is unnecessary to say f course, that these shoes of light hades are found invariably com lined with a darker leather, or : eptile leather of the same shade. Patent leather is another favor d spring medium. It may be had n black .'. . or newest of the new 'berry. Cherry patent leather nisleading as the name may be, not the brilliant scarlet of the a miliar cherry color. No, it erges more, upon the brown tinge.' Evening Slippers - Are Brilliant ami Varied Dancing feet are unrestrained in their display of magnificence. Lovaly brocades; both the old fa vorites ia silver and gQld, and new multi-colored ; brocades. Hand painted and embroidered kid. Sat in in bright colors. Jeweled heels. Rhinestone embroidery. The list is endless and distingu ished for its beauty.' Extremely ' new is "nacre" ' or -nother of pearl kid. Its soft, del cate - tones make It -harmonize with any. evening gown, and the lovely glow of Its pearl-like finish Is extremely beautiful. ; f ; - For resort and summer . wear, white kid ' bids fair to hold Its own. among all the novelties Intro duced w Itis.combined with black patent leather, brown leather - or one-of: the -reptile leathers, and iery tints, direct from the boule vards of Paris. "Lucile has created for us three shades that are authoritative and a delight in the sheerest and daintiest hose. They are Maxine. Celeste, and Fanchon. They are combinations of tints that will make a perfect finish to any dress or frock and the woman who wears them can feel that she has on the hose that express the ideas of one of the foremost dress le signers in Paris, home of the great couturieres." B T 1 COSTUMES DISTINCT IN TYPE Two Kinds Being Shown; Must Be Either Practical or Decorative,. Swimming costumes are of the popular one-piece-wlth skirt-attached variety, but they are most distinctly of this season's mode. They utilize the broad stripes so often found, often in two or three shades of one color, sometimes in vividly contrasting colors. They further prove their smartness by using square necks apd V-necks . . . . quite a new departure from the familiar curved type. The rather unbecoming, man nish type of suit with inside shirt and separate trunks has been sup erceded this year, largely because of its tendency to accentuate the hips unduly. In its stead we find 'runks attached to a tunic, both of jersey. The trunks usually ex tend to the knee, while the tunic is of hip length. Although de sighed strictly as swimming suits, this does not prevent them from taking on many charming little Attributes of this season's dresses. Flowers perch at the shoulder, streamers and bows fly forth from unexpected spots . ... the back of the nock line or halfway down the middle of the front. Contrasting I for trunks and tunic. I and red and navy is ometimes (exception to the rule if combinations) it is allowed to e its own charming self. Raffia ind straw, embroidered,' are new :nd interesting. rrvi One Eye Never Does a Good Job! THE "BALANCE" of your eye muscles receives : careful study in an examination here. It isour -aim to develop, the sharpest; as well as the most com fortable vision in each eye. Only registered special ists are entrusted with the responsibility of your vision here. , , V " POMEROY & KEENE Jewelers and Optometrists Salem, Oregon , the favorite combination. With the swimming -suits of jersey, one often finds a matching beret tarn of the same fabric. They confine the hair and prevent it from an noying one, should one care to join an exciting game of leap fro or display one's prowess in turn ing cartwheels (if one can do sot Beach wraps for the swimming suit are not elaborate, being of turkish toweling or a rough wool en weave. Matching jersey is also used, and they all favor the cape. Cardigan jackets are sometimes used instead of full length wraps. Pyjamas are favored for th non-swimming ; visitor at th beach. One striking pair seen was of black satin, bordered in reil crepe. The accompanying cape was formed of alternating stripes of the red and black fabrics. Printed silk, gay cretonne, crepe satin or silk crepe form beach suits not of the pyjama type. These-' bathing dresses usually j have trunks of the same fabric ex ' tending a few inches longer than ' the hem of the dress. Wraps for this type of promenade costume are always of the ensemble vari ety, carrying out both color and fabric theme of the suit itself. Clogs are the newest beach shoes. They are "all sole," hav ing one broad strap across the foot behind the toe and another across the upper instep. One just slips into them. Salem Student Speaks on China (Continued from page 1.) Chinese, when they come to Am erica, in not finding Christian standards universally practiced; consequently, he said, many con verted Chinese who return to their native land embrace one of the two great Oriental religions, or become atheists; which led him to stress the necessity for Ameri ca living up to Ideal Christian standards, if wishing to have any substantial influence upon Orien tals. China Peace Loving He depicted China as a peace loving nation, which, until the re cent past, has lived in harmony within hersef. He expressed re gret at the manner in which opi um has been, forced upon her, and how gradual encroachments, hith erto borne without political re sentment, have eventually led Chinese leaders to adopt a more agressive policy. He sketched the activities of the great Chinese leader, Dr. Sun Yat Sen, in organizing the revoltion which became successful in 1907, and overthrowing the powerful Manchurian dynasty; from which, however, not all of the reactioary forces of the old regime were re moved. Dr. Sun- then went to southern China and established military schools, etc. "And the war in which China is now engaged." continued Mr. Tsai, "is Dr. Sun's army the Cantonese forces against the northern war lords, the majority of whom are bandits. The newspapers say that the southern army, now advancing upon Shan hai, are as much bandits as are the northerns,' but that is not true." emphasized Mr. Tsai. The northern war lords, he said; con trol one-third of China. He reminded his hearers how, during the Japanese-Russian war, the poor of northern China, who could neither read nor write, were hired by the Japanese government to fight the Russians, thereby achieving Japanese victory; that thereafter this class of Chinese were exploited by Japan, who forced the Chinese government to recognize a bandit chief, giving him an official military title. "Ever since which," Mr. Tsai stat ed, "Japan has been financing this bandit faction, until she controls all interests in tha t portion of China; which explains why, when the Cantonese or southern army raises the cry. 'China for the Chinese.' the others began to in terfere." China's George Washington He mentioned the hostilities of two years ago, and, upon the death of Dr. Sun Yat Sen. his uniqne will to the Chinese people. For more than forty years Dr. Sun endeavored, peaceably, to get other nations to assist in having Justice rendered, and to help solve China's problems; failing in which Dr. Sun's final solution was to militarize the nation. "Today. Dr. Sun is worshipped by more than half of China." de clared Mr. Tsai. "Instead of bow ing to any god. (hey bow to t'e memory and likeness of Dr. Sun. who is their Ideal and their Inspir ation, because the Chinese have been so oppressed !,at they con sider his method the only way by which tbey can gain their free dom:" Mr; Tsai considers China very open minde,) and tolerant. It has a voluntary, but not compulsory educational system, and requiring missionary schools to register with the department of education. A unified educational system, however, is her desire, as under the present system, some are edu cated in the native schools and others in the missionary institu tions. The early education of Mr. Tsai was at the latter, his father being a minister of the Christian faith. Old China Passing "The old China is fast parsing away, and a new China is being born," Mr. Tsai reiterated. Citing the traditional high sense ot jus tice of the Chinese, people he urged interest in her problems, to the end she might remain peace loving. "Formerly," he said, "the most respected people of China were Vatmers, merchants, artisans and the professional classes, with no place for soldiers., but today soldiers are almost worshipped." and Young -China wants military training, in order to be on a par with other nations, so to be able to cope with them. If need be. R. J. Hendricks, who has de voted much study to Chinese his tory and conditions, expressed the opinion that the universal peace of the world will be set forward' indefinitely, if China remains peace loving rather than militar istic. In response to an Inquiry as to what America can do to benefit China. Mr. Tsai stated as his opinion that this can be done only be refraining from military inter ference, that is, that China must settle her own national problems. He believes that Americans in general tre sympathetic' with the Nationalist cause in China an opinion, derived, he stated, from inquiries of many types of Americans. GRAIN INSPECTION DEPARTMENT BUSY ( Continued from pag l. These figures were contained in a report of the grain inspection department filed recently with Seymour Jones, state market agent. There was weighed and inspect ed out of docks and elavotors for export 16.664;377 bushels of wheat. The shipments were se gregated as follows: Orient 4, 946,439 bushels, Europe 11,131. 720 bushels. South America 529, 379 bushels. New Zealand 19.506 Shirts The season's smart dressers will welcome the new spring shirts of light grounds in striking checked or striped designs, in splendid contrasting color combinations. Ties Both silk and knit of plain and colorful pat terns. Large assort ment unusually attrac tive, only SI.H. Hose Silk and silk mixed novelty box as sketched featuring modified shades of rich delph tones predominating, t Track Suits Silk shirts or knit rests in .undergarments with plain or fancy drawers forms underclothing without peer for com fort, fit and durability. bushels and Africa 37,333. There was inspected -by the grain department 680.212 barrels of flour. 1810 cars of hay, 1667 cars of potatoes. Fees for these inspections aggregated $14,836.17. The state grain department was established in July. 1917, with headquarters in Portland. As a result of the growth of the depart ment four offices have been es tablished. These are located in Portland. Astoria. Terminal No. 4. Multnomah county, and at Pen dleton. The three former offices handle all incoming cars of grain at the terminals and all outgoing rars or cargoes when requested. The de partment also inspects and weighs all hay received at Portland and Astoria and has charge of the in spections of potatoes and onions All cars of grain are inspected on the railroad "hold" tracks for the merchants exchange as it is ne cessary for the grain companies to determine the kind of grain in their cars. , Most of the wheat from Walla Walla district is consigned to Portland Thjs requires that the Walla Walla grain firms have a man stationed in Portland to simple ell the farmers crops when they are delivered to the ware house. A portion of thee samples are sent to the various grain firms while another sample is sent to the state grain inspection depart ment. The grain" departmet issues a certificate on each sample received and a copy of the certificate is sent to each grain firm. As a re sult of this program the bids of the various grain companies are uniform to the extent that the proposals have .to do with one sample of grain. The state grain department inspected 1545 of these samples during the year 1925. The Pendleton office was es tablished for the purpose of giv ing the farmers in Umatilla coun ty an opportunity to have their samples graded in the same man ner as are the samples from the Walla Walla district. The office also inspects cars of grain at warehouses or at Reith. to enable the shipper to demand a reinspec tion at terminals, if he feels ag grieved at the grade placed on his car by the Pendleton inspector. It was said that much Montana wheat also passes through Port land for the reason that shippers prefer to' sell their product at a point where there is an inspection. Much of the corn and oats mov ing frjm Nebraska over the Oregon-Washington Railroad & Navi gation company's lines is held at Reith for inspection, due to. the fact that much of these products are consigned from stations in the east where inspection is not available. In addition to the grain and hay inspections the department is called upon to weigh other com modities such as cotton, wool, flax seed, coal, iron, lard, hides, corpa, oil, molasses and bran. The grain department has a large platform scale with a capa city of 20 tons. All hay is weigh- ' fl ; ill llte -i : 't i ' MMMBIIMMMMSSMSWMSWSSSBi,wiMWWaMy An Exclusive Showing of the Famous Twistex Fabrics in Men's Clothing -ed on this scale as are other com modities in truck lots. The personnel of the grain In spection department during the rush season numbered as high as 120. During the slack seasons tile employees dwindled town to 22. The deparment is self sustaining. The department supervises all unloading, weighing and sampling of corpa and flax seed discharged at Portland by the Superintend ence company of New York and the C. M Harris company of San Frar. is-o. Jt wan sild that virtually two thirds of the grain insneoted bv the department Is produced in states other than Oregon, and shipped to Portland for grading and inspection. Seymour Jones, state market agent, maintains his headquarters in Salem, but passes two days each week t the offices of the grain department in Portland. NEW FRENCH SHOP FASHION SHOW PLACE f CnntiwnMi from par 2 mirror lighting, one of the latest developments in the Frink Light ing system, most artfully enhanc es the figure before the mirror. The window lighting is the latest and finest type known. The dramatic wrought iron win dow background and display fix tures Were furnished by Stern, Johann Brossman, Inc., of Los Angeles. . The oriental rugs were furnish ed by the Hamilton Furniture company and the draperies, tapes tries and statuary by .Stiff's Furn iture company. The Acme Paint was furnished by the Salem Hard ware company and the lumber and materials by the Spaulding Log ging company. H. L. Stiff Furniture Co.. lead ers in complete home furnishings, i priced to make you the owner; ' the store that studies your every I need and is ready to meet it, ab solutely. ). Clatskanie Construction he gins on new Medical building here. You'll enjoy driving a Pontiac It handles so easily and performs so well it is a real pleasure to drive it or ride in 1L Vick Bros.. Hitrh and Trade. . () 'Practical in the Art SPRING STYLES. RHODES State and High Streets We Dare to Fe Different' OELLE ROSS CLAIMS mi United States Said to Bo Over Fed but Under Nour ished, Says Woman Wrong eating, rather than promiscuous drinking, what 1 the matter with America today. In the opinion of Mrs." Delle Ross, famous Bloomington. Illinois. dle 4lcian. Mrs. Ross is a former singer .ind a teacher who having i cured herself of the disease of overweight after years of struggle, is meeting extraordinary success in curing everweight In others. "Eating and hot drinking is the curse of America today." says Mrs. Ross. "We are overfed but j undernourished. Not all are in ! temperate In drinking but most of ns do not know how to eat in telligently. All foods are good if eaten correctly. Seven years of close study has convinced me that every disease known to man is first caused by wron-g eating. Lack of - adequate food, supplied in proper variety, leads to over wrought nerves, and the victim seeks in drink and drugs what be should have found in right foods. "Many people believe it silly to think that perfect health and bodi ly structure can be brought about by merely eating certain foods. But is it? You would not try .to repair a wire fence with silk thread nor mend a silk stocking with wire, would you? Each thing is good in its place, and the same is true with foods. The human body is a complex machine de pending for its life-building and life-sustaining powers, science tells us. upon many elements found in foods free from the 'im provements' of man. If these are not all supplied properly, the body cannot work at the highest efficiency. Brain, muscle, bone and nerves depend upon the blood to furnish them materials; the blood, in turn, is dependent on the food" put into the stom--Rch. To have a perfect body, we need only give it right foods, judi ciously combined. Disease germs do not thrive in a pure blood stream." Furs- Horgan Furriers 124 South High Street of Fur Remodeling" 101 E1TI