THE OREGON STATESMAN; S ALEM, OREGON V
SUNDAY MORNING, MARCH 20. 1927
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Predominate in Majority of Men's S
Flippant
Styles
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Sportsman's Wardrobe
Very Important Item
No Radical Changes Indicated in Evening Apparel; Walking
Sticks Part of Outfit for Every Well Dressed
Man This Season
In neckwear, bright colors persist in keeping with the
spirit of the season. ' Perhaps the wearing of red ties by the
more conservative men last season has helped to give them
courage. Small checks, neat diamond and lozenge patterns
on contrasting backgrounds are among the new designs while
regimental stripes and bird's feather motifs will be exceed
ingly popular. Bow. ties, especially those of the butterfly
variety will remain" very wide.
I doubt if we can secure anything mpre colorful in hos
iery than the winter season has shown us. All the vivid
shades will be seen in designs of every description, checks,
plaids, squaresand diamonds, with solid colors being in the
minority. About the only difference a few months has made
is the change of material to stuff of a lighter weight such as
silk, lisle and cashmere.
Little variance is noted in footwear. Shoes retain their
heavy appearance, especially those answering to the English
influence, but at the same time are rather light and plain.
The brogues with excessive perforations, are not .exactly
taboo, but are worn very little. The more conservative, yet
characteristic young men's broad toe is taking the lead. Un
doubtedly, black will have a shade the better in the battle of
Colors. ' .
The first choice of gloves for spring will find its favor
in cape skin, especially those of a lighter shade, more of a
buff. Washable suede too will be used as well as chamois in
a deep cream Such gloves frequently have seams stitched
in black. The one clasp, and one button gloves are the fav
orites, though shome are shown in the slip-on style.
Walking Sticks Part of Costume
When a man is well shod, and fittingly attired, spats add
greatly to his appearance, and, this spring will see them
used to no small extent. .Walking sticks, too, are funda
mentally a part of one's spring costume. The younger set
was disinclined to carry a walking stick because they labored
under the impression that canes were 'a means of support
rather than a decorative accessory, but their increased use
lately has disproved this theory. Curved malacca sticks for
day wear, and straight black ebony for evening are this sea
son's choice.
t There has been little, if-any, change in underwear since
last year. The two piece suit which resembles the outfit of
a runner found great favor and is due for repeated success
this spring. Its popularity is shared, however by the ath
letic union suit which is accepted by many.
Nightwear Remains Very Colorful
Nierhtwear remains verv colorfuL In fact, the desiens
are so bright and bizarre that they resemble in no small .de
gree the camouflage patterns of our World War days. The
"robe de chamber" which has met with the greatest amount
of favor is the buttoned model with a V opening at the throat,
and large rolling lapels. Knitted silk is used, but by many
men foullard is considered the ideal fabric since it can be
easily washed and restored to its original freshness.
The man of means should have four different robes, one
of the heavy toweling for useful service, a crepe one weigh
ing but a few ounces to be used when travelling, a light
wight flannel for easy lounging, and finally a handsome robe
of brocade or silk when he is entertaining his friends in
formally. Most of-these have a large shawl collar, silk cord
trimmed, and all silk girdle. The smoking jacket too, has
r;ot reacted in cut, it still bein the conservative single-breasted
coat with shawl collar. Materials include silk, flannel,
and silk and wool mixtures. Slipper, of -course, should har
monize with the gown or jadcet and advisably be of warm
material.
, Sportsman's Wardrobe Very Important
The delightful thing about the sportsman's wardrobe
is the fact that it is never affected by the cyclic swing of
fashion which is said to make its rotation every seven years
or so. And with the call of the great outdoors ring through
out the land , many of us think as much about sports apparel
as we do of everyday wear. Golf, of course, is the leading
pastime, and golf means knickers. These will again be seen
in checked, striped, and blocked patterns. White linen knick
ers, too, will hold their own. The vogue of sweaters and hose
to match will be favored to some extent, but the man who
wishes to be a little more exclusive will find it wise to choose
sweaters and hose that do not exactly match, but that har
monize and blend well together. In footwear, the crepe rub
ber sole golf shoe is greatly preferred. The hatless fad has
struck America, and, sponsored by the collegian it got "off to
a good start. But for those who want a protection from the
burning rays of the sun, the eight quarter large visor campus
cap is offered. Another newcomer is the French beret, sort
of a tam which was originally wonrby the fishermen off the
Basque coast. It may be had in solid colors of black, red,
emerald, blue, or henna.
Fashions at Seashore
Even when the seashore beckons we cannot overlook
fashion, and so we strive to secure bathing apparel that
makes us look our best, the tall slender fellow affectincr a
bathing shirt of horizontal stripes to make him look broader,'
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and men of muscular build chooteing the plain top pieces.
Striped shirts, which have been tie best bet for two or more
seasons will be seen no less this aleason. A blue and white
striped shirt with trunks of blue wool or flannel gives an
idea of a harmonizing set. With such an outfit, a white belt
makes a striking combination.
No Radical Change in Evening Apparel
To the well dressed man fasihion changes slowly, for
above all he is conservative. In evening wear he looks for
something that is up-to-the-minute but is still not a fad. On
the whole, evening apparel shows no radicla change over
that of a season past.
Our supper, clubs, after theatxe dances, and similar di-i
vertisements have all helped to stirahiate evening wear. The
moderate prices of these garments have contributed consid
erably to their extensive use.
Fashion decrees that the dinner jacket be single-breasted
of black plain or unfinished worstted. Shoulders are rath
er normal, perhaps a little broad to lend an athletic appear
ance, but the waistline is slightly figure tracing. Pockets
are without flaps, either shawl oi peak, faced with a fine
ribbed silk. Trousers are rather long, but not exaggerated
as to width. A full inch of silk jbraid covers the outer leg
seams though trousers with braid of only half that width are
just as correct, and even neater I tihink. In waistcoats a man
may show his individuality. However, one should be warn
ed against purchasing a double breasted one, because though
greatly favored in France, they are worn only to a slight ex
tent in the States. Waistcoats should be of black, plain or
figud silk. White waistcoats should only be chosen, for
wear with a swallowtail. Besides offering additional com
fort, the backless waistcoat which fastens in the back with
a single strap, tends to eliminate the horizontal creases at
the pockets which are bound to be the result of a long eve
ning. In the selection of shirts, the older man chooses the stiff
white bosom (which is by far the most correct) but youth,
in its attempts to be comfortable, is favorably disposed to
ward the white pique or linen semi-starched shirt, pleated or
unpleated as desired. Shirts which button down the back,
thus permitting the studs to be put in place before the shirt
is put on are again gaining in favor and why not? They
tend to keep the shirt front immaculate and without a bulge
around the studs, which after all is the effect sought for.
The correct collar is the wing. Some prefer the turn
down collar, but I am of the opinion that it detracts from the
dignity of the dinner jacket. The bow tie should be of black
silk, satin or barathea figured (black on black) or plain. An
attempt to -match the waist coat design in the tie often makes
a very pleasing combination. The butterfly rules the favor
ite. Hosiery may be silk or lisle, selt or wnite ciocKea, a
black and white accordion knit silk of vertical stripes or one
of black and white blocks. Plain black patent leather oxfords
are correct the world oven The most popular hat is the block
soft top-piece . with silk underbrim. The black derby or
"bowler" runs second. The favored topcoat is without a doubt
the black Chesterfield. ' :
In closing I may say that being called "well dressed' is
a distinction not easily achieved. If it merely meant going,
into a shop and choosing the latest and most expensive outfit,
any man with money could be well dressed. Unfortunate
ly most of our men of means are merely fashionable. The
man who wears ctethes that suit his type the one who se
lects a suit because it is becoming and stylish, not simply be
cause it is the latest cut, is the smartly dressed man.
BOTTLE FISHERMEN
BACK OF LOBSTERS
Highland Regains Glory as
Headquarters New Jersey
Lobster Industry
HIGHLANDS. N. J.. (AD
"Bottle-fishermen" ' have gone
back to their lobster pots and
Highlands has regained its- an
cient glory as headquarters of the
JN'ew Jersey lobster industry. Sea
Bright dories which the. coast
guards learned so 'well before they
drove the "liquor boys" from Jer
sey waters, are darting along
again at 18 miles an hour, shoot
ing spray to. port and starboard
but their destination these days
are the lobster fields from three
to ten miles off shore.
If the sport and daring of elud
ing the coast guards is missing
from the life of yesterday's rum
runner; lobster fishing in open,
cabinless boats with high free
board and sharp bows, is work for
the toughest and hardiest. Gone
however, are the profits' of the
smuggler, for the lobsterman who
nets $10 a day is doing well. In
stead of one or two speedy trips a
week to rum row, he out on the
Atlantic daily in his open boat in
all save the bitterest winter
weather.
"A crew of two men hauls in, re
baits, and replaces from 100 to
120 pots a day. The pot is a
wooden frame about three feet
long, 18 inches wide and 18 inches
high, over which laths are nailed
one inch apart. The bottom of the
pot is flat, the top round. There
is a door on one side and on the
other an opening with two "fun
nels" of netted cord.
By custom and tradition the
pots must be baited with dead
menhaden. No lobster has been
known to disturb the bait but the
hard, bony, uneatable crabs of the
sea are fond of it, often crowding
the pots eo that the crustacean
has little chance to get inside.
To each pot is fastened & rope
eight feet long, attached to a
heavier line known as the runner.
The lines are picked up ' from
buoys and the runner rope Is
brought in over a big spool set lh
the bow of the boat. When the
pots are pulled on board they drop
a confused mass of rattling,
scrambling crabs, a fish or two
and perhaps a lobster.
First National Bank, the bank
of friendship and helpfulness in
time of need. Interest paid on
time deposits. Open an account
and watch your money grow. ()
Klamath Falls Ney $10,000
Christian Science church complet
ed and dedicated.
Stop, look, and listen to our ap
peal. If you are not absolutely
satisfied with your laundry prob
lem, call 165. Hind work our
specialty. ( )
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SMARTEST-TOGS FOR MEN
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showing of the season's newest styles in
eaur
The most exceptional values of the - season await you here
In Our Special Feature
"THE PACEMAKER"
Many of these Special
Feature Suits would
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Others $25.00
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We invite you to call and look over our most extensive
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