- J s nffi OREGON STATESMAN, SALEMrOREGON' ,- J. - is SUNDAY MORNING, MARCH 20, 1827 - r - 7 " Tmmmmm of The Advent of Spring milady A-Shomitig Goe ) Tailored Suit Regains , Popularity This Spring Many Varied Types of the Tailleur Find Their Way Prominence; Tack in Blouse Meeting With Considerable Favor This Year Into mm There was a time when the sun of Easter never shone unless it shown on a world garbed in tailored suits. . From fourteen to forty, from ninety-six to two-hundred-six pounds, the spring uniform was the tailored suit. Perhaps we saw so much of them -that we finally cried quits and left them r.lone for a few. seasons. This season finds them used with more discretion. Only the youthful figured don the tailleur, and their more mature sisters let wisdom be the better part of discretion when they -i ai 3 u a. j j -r- i j ciiuuse me mutter uiies ui cuai ana aress. Jtsui now me ana Decoming is me tauieur to tnose with the properly sum. itrflicht ficure. and daring for ordinary wear." Slightly modified, however, they are fcesjnspirations for many smart tailleurs. The "smoking? i3 What Paris calls a jacket cut like a man's dinner coat. Extending only to the waist in front, it has a "tail" in back, reaching bejow.the hips. When a suit of this type is developed iirblack, with a white waistcoat, it bears quite a amusing resemblance to the man's dinner jacket. More conservative are the regulation box and tuxedo iackets, the former in both double breasted and single breast ed styles. These, with more or less variation, form the large majority of today s suit jackets. Belts make their appear rnce in three different types! the full length belt, the back belt, and the front belt ; and their influence is felt in the large number of fitted jackets which one sees. At one time, practically every tailleur was like every other, except that it differed in color or fabric. Now quite the reverse is true. Not one is like any other! The endless range of possibil ity in jackets is repeatde in skirts. They may be of the wrap-around variety, or they may utilize kick or side pleats. They defend from the nor mal waist line. Many of them, especially those of costume suits, where a harmonizing blouse or sweater is a part of the suit itself, are upon bodice tops, and it must be admitted that -they hang much better and keep their lines longer than the vwaist-Ime type. 1 The compose, or contrasting color effect, finds its aivo- r cates among suits. Dark jackets and light skirts or plain jackets with mixture, striped or checked skirts, are among the variations played upon this theme. Contrasting revera or braid often contribute to the effect. Quite a practical note- is sounded in this connection. One suit may take on the ap pearance of two costumes, by possessing two skirts . . . one of a fabric matching the jacket, and' the other contrived to give the compose effect. The costume suits previously mentioned are of variou descriptions. One popular type supplies a sweater of the same color but lighrter shade, bound in the same tweed as the suit. Another uses a contrasting color sweater with stripes in the suit color. Still anotherwill come provided with a crepe blouse matching the lining of .the jacket. This latter,, most oftenjveith a navy blus twill suit, of which one sees many sntfirt types. " Other fabrics beside twill are kasha, men's suiting fab ncs, and the ever-popular English tweeds. When it cones to tweeds, there is no nation in the world which can beat the English. For smartness, for wearing qualities, for color ef t'ects, they are not even approached by any other manufac turers of tweed. This year English tweeds are surprisingly cheap, despite the fact that they must pay t duty into this countrv. so if vou can obtain a suit of this tvoe. you may be fi assured of its practicability and correctness. f The tuck-in blouse is most favored this year, although its rival, the outside blouse, has the advantage of presenting a more dignified appearance when it appears jacketless. However, the claim is made that the tailored suit is not meant f for afternoon wear, it is meant only for occasions when it is not necessary to remove the jacket, and hence the jacket must never be doffed. The blouses are of the mannish, tail ored type in crepe de chine or radium silk. White, blue and grey are good colors; for this type of blouse. Other blouses utilize'the popular square neckline, and are of the straight hip-length variety. These latter may be obtained in practically every color red, green, tan, yellow, and are worn with a navy or black suit. A in New Collars Distinctive Mark For Spring Coats ed variety. It has the effect of stripes in two or three tones of one color.. Baby fox is used on sport coats, and grey fox also occasionally graces the grey or blue sport coat. Those coats which are not befurred, call on the familiar fox scarf to hide their nakedness. Many may be seen with detachable fur scarfs, or mink or some such narrow fur. Combinations of fur and fabric on one collar are good. Straight Ones Most Favored Season after season sees the straight line coat still lead ing all others. We have little outbursts of flares, of circular cuts, of godets, but they have each died a natural death, and the hardy straight-line perennial goes cheerfully on its way. It is after all, the most becoming to all types of figures, and since it repeats itself each year, it may be worn two years with impunity and" practicality. Occasionally one sees a variation of the straight line by the introduction of tiers, or panel treatments. Sometime stitched pleats make their appearance, but of course, all these variations are merely like those which the musician plays upon one theme they do not change the original motif, merely add a new rhythm or intonation. Sport coats, as foreshadowed by winter sport coats are, all belted by a narrow leather belt. The "travel coat" is a new type, designed for wear when traveling, or lor an in-between type, when it is too warm for a winter coat and breezes are too chilly for a light spring wrap. These coats take on sport lines and utilize plaids and other similar fabrics. A newcomer to' the realm of coats is faille, Jtl or heavy tan eta. Like the other silk fabric in use, crepe back satin, it is good only in black, but in that color it certainly is smart ! Most feminine ailU OilUi llli lb !Of Vll nilCll UCVCIUCU All OilAAJ-fH-- styles. Crepe satin is the other fabric in use for the more formal type, and it may add such elab orating features as touches of embroidery on the sleeves, or appliqued designs. The silk coats are often found with sleeves of the flare type, wide at the wrist, but other coats prefer the cuffed, tight sleeve. Straps and buttons vary the tailored coat-sleeve, while other interesting variations are "butcher" or "pirate" cuffs. Quite ferocious we will be, if we imitate either of these two blood-curdling gentlemen in our choice of spring fashions. Armholes are quite normal, for the dolman and wide sleeves are left to the heavier winter coats. Sometimes one sees a yoke extending into the sleeve, but that is about the only variation of the fitted shoulder seam. "Yokes are but one of the points emphasizing the seamy side of life. Seams are introduced in the queerest and most unnecessary places, just for the effect they will create. And quite necessary seams will take all sorts of curved, diagonal and geometric lines. Great quantities of pin tucks are used. They form hori zontal stripes or vertical stripes, come together to form a chevron point, extend obliquely from one side of the coat to the other. But pin tucks do not mo nopolize the field entirely. Tucks of all sizes are seen, some even approaching deep folds. The Tan Color Range Extensively Used , In Spring Coats All shades of tan are smart, with emphasis i on the very light or "natural" shades. Grey and gree are the only i other high colors used. That is quite surprising in view of the amount of blue one sees in dresses, but somehow or other that color is rejected among coats. Black and black and white are by far the leading colors for coats and kasha and the duvetyns and suede cloths the leading woolen fabrics. Twill and rep are second in import ance. A new note this year is the plaid, taffeta lining, of ten appearing also in the scarf. For spmmer and resort wear, the white coat is unap proachable. "Touch me not," it says, "I may be impractical and easily soiled, but I reign supreme in my field." As a wrap to wear with sport clothes and on such, occasions as motor trips and yachting parties, it is unexcelled? It is developed in white flannel or one of the novel knitted or woolen weaves. Practical Dresses for -V-All Afternoon Wearing i 1 High prices and need for ciffid economy may hve something to do w ith the French woman's pref erence for black this spring. For all occasion after 12 o'clock noon the black dress is a thing to be "cckoed with in the Paris show ings of spring styles. Fringe is a favorite trimming for these black modelp It is practical and makes a dress suitable for many occas ions. The French woman is only beginning to demand the kind of dress popular for so long in Amer ica which can be donned for lunch and worn if necessary Btraight through the dinner and theatre engagement. 4. Do not' wear "dressy" clothes during the day. S. Better have one or two out fits correct with hat. shoes, bag and accessories to match than a number of gowns that do not harmonize. 6. Nerer wear too many Jewels. 7. Don't wear more than one or two colors in one outfit. . ' 8. ' Never allow you? evening gowns to be garish.- Smartness means simplicity. 9. Don't wear too much makeup. 10. Dress to suit your person alit. " " - Hubert designs the gowns worn by some of the smartest women on the Bcreen,- including Norma Shearer,' Aileen Pringle, Pauline Starke, Claire Windsor and Car mel Myers. " F N DESIGNER GIVES TEN RULES Rene Hubert Should Know Mean ing of Word "Chic"; Much Experience What is the meaning of the word "chic"? If anyone knows, it's Rene Hubert, fashion designer for Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer, who was three years with Gloria Swan son. He has laid down ten command ments that the woman who desires smartness should follow. . 1. Be simple and true to your self. 2. Try to look well and don't take chic for granted, 3. Be original. Never try to copy your friend. CORRECT STYLES In Trimmed, Tailored and Sports Hats Always to be found at LARSEN'S MILLINERY 429 Court Remodeling and Order Work a spe cialty. Also feature large head sizes and youthful styles in Matron hats. Spring Showing This season in footwear is evidenced by light col ors in a number of novel styles. Attendance at the recent Chicago Style Show emphasized these modes and bur selection offers a comprehensive choice of the more popular ones. Unusually fine values here this season. Selections can be shown " $5, $5.50, $6, $6.50, $7.85 Hose To Match The Spring Colors Are shown in our Hosiery Department BUSTER BROWN SHOE STQRE Bow Knots of Fur and Scarfs and Ties of Cloth or Silk Pro duce Novel Effects; Straight Lines Found To Be Favored Most Amusing indeed are the varied and interesting treat ments accorded to the collars of spring coats. Even fur is not content to lie flat and behave itself, no, it must form little bows and knots, and perch upon the shoulder or at the back of the neck. Or a scarf of the lining silk is partly attached. V partly left loose, and ties into a large "pussy cat" bow at the neck. A twill or kasha coat may tie itself into a bow at the front, or its narrow stand up collar may show streamers of self-fabric at the back. The familiar shawl collar developed in fur on winter coats is repeated for spring, both in fur and fabric. The fabric shawl collar provides a new note for the tailored coat. . . something quite different from the regulation man nish notched collar. But of course the new does not quite supersede the old,, since the straight line, notched collar coat is a universal favorite for tailored or sport wear. Most coats, it is true, use fur. Summer ermine in every shade from white to quite a dark cocoa is good. The white furs are used on black coats, carrying out the vogue for, black and white . . . ' and very, very smart is that combina tion. Another fur used quite often is of the sombre or shad- The Ann Louise Where you are welcome to look Millinery and Dresses 220 North Liberty Street, Opposite Portland -- Electric Power Co. ,'1 & SFEMCTIME' yr -r-r cinr PIT H IT Bring into -your cJheccs genuine service iriour j&beral'Jecms We mafe them fit your needs. Pay a little out of income J t is an easy way to have ne& c7urnitUjC W -x -w. i imii i,w ii ir'TTii ! WE ANNOUNCE our Spring Opening, featuring new furniture styles at prices you can afford to pay. Our stock includes everything needed to properly furnish and decorate the home. Open an account with us and make your paymnts out of. income. Our windows Tuesday evening willt be of more than usual inter est. Be sure to see them. s " o I h 0 I 1? .'.n.'r I!