5 Yes, we have movie censors and book censors, but as yet
we have no gkirt'censor ! Of course, I suppose the average !
policeman wouldn't obect to going around with a yardstick,!
measuring tfie length of skirts, but then the fair wearer
might do so strenuously. . In Greece one young lady was a
martyr to the causeshe was arrested, spent a night in
prison and paid a-fine. However, the storm of protest
aroused will probably, cause the repeal of the law.
r Well maybe not never, but at . any rate, not for a. long
time. Sleeves are just sleeves this year, though. They are
not so elaborately trimmed or embroidered and do hot attract,
quite so much attention. A few tailored dresses have, tight
sleeves, of course, but the majority are Slightly full, caught
in at the wrist
'.v' Not so simple a matter' to define, the neck-line, for there
are quite a number of collarless dresses, too. Collars may
stand high, proud and defiant, or meekly submit to lying low
and open in a V, They may tie, they may take it upon
5 themselves to turn into a jabot, or a light vest in f ront.and
they may appear in pain a double number of dresses have
collars, DUt vnose Wlinoui inem artMjiiicimics mvaav-
. ing because of their unusualness. A collarless,V neck is very
becoming to-the woman with a pretty ' neck and shoulders,
and it is quite different enough to make it attractive in. itself.
' i . .- xru aloovoa txVinf nthr nnints of interest lie'
tSlf V-w, " I ,
abpve the waist? Only, the new yokes and vest
that give such becoming lines, and one more im
portant factor the bolero.
That is the name they give it, but it has -progressed
so far from its original simple little coatee
that it is sometimes unrecognigable. Of course,
if It were a true bolero, it would be a separate
jacket but that is never seen. The nearest ap
proach to it is seen in the dress which has a wide
draped belt with a buckle a chemisier or vest
s . in front. While still remaining a-one piece aress,
it gives the effect of the separate jacket. .
According to its whim, the bolero may appear only in the
back, or only at the sides it' may. even be entirely deceitful
by- giving only the suggestion of the tiny jacket with em
broidery in the proper place
.-''.' -
Pronounced and in a very definite spot at the top al
most no dresses to speak of without a definite waist-line,
shown either by a belt, sash,.draping or seam of some kind.
The bloused waistline may or may not be accompanied
by a belt it may enhance the charms of the wearer in either
a two piece or one piece dress;---
"Two piece," you say. "I like, them well enough,, but
thought they would surely die out except for sports." So
has everyone else been of that opinion but -the two piece
dress is with us for at least another season. Convenient and
comfortable it certainly is, for its skirt is nearly always
pleated and full, unhindered for walking.
Turn to the side that is to the fullness and draping at
the side, more prevalent than it has been in a long time.
Tiers may open at the side, draping may be caught at the
side with a buckle so you see the side lines are just as im
portant in fashion as they are in football,
v Do you know' what a redingote is? It originally meant
a long coat, open in front now it is applied to any
dress open down the front and showing a vest for
its full length. The redingote, the shorter vest
and gilet, and the jabot in front, all show what is
going on "down in front." ' -
Gilet, jabot, redingote all are French words.
.Nowadays one really can't dress well until one is
familiar with French, or at least that part of the
language which the couturiers use. To get down
to plain English, there are two t's in the limelight
now tiers and; tunics. The tunics .are cut short
a few inches 'above the hemline, often split open
at the sides or in front, and a world of wisdom
the woman who feels she is too tall can force an opticarillu
sion upon those around her by wearing it. Breaking the line
of the dress near the bottom will considerably decrease the
appearance of her height.
, Tiers have left the straight and narrow path and refuse
to be saved from perdition. They are scalloped, they slant,
they are peaked. and pointed. Two, three or four tiers are
good they may be plain or pleated. ? ' -v .
The Pageboy essilhouette bell boy, in other "words does
not mean that one has to wear brass buttons in uncountable
numbers. It merely resembles a bell hop's uniform in its
sudden flare below the waist see the illustration.
O Shirring and pleating are the two simplest
methods of giving fulness to the skirt. One occa
f 1 sionally sees a circular front or godets, but these
v-k I. stvles are confined almost entirely to evening wear.
Color indeed the most important note of
which will be red, in the wine' shades from
Chanel red to a deep, dark burgundy. Emerald
green will shine in all its brilliance, as will several
shades of blue.
.Black and navy we have, always with us
sometimes unrelieved and severe, trying to all ex
cept those with pale, fair skins. Mostly, though,
brightened by gold or metallic trimming, or softened by a
flesh or white vest. .
Gold did I say? I must not forgetUo stress the impor
tance of the yellow metal. Perhaps I don't really need to
do that, for we all realize how necessary it is. As it provides
bread and butter and the' spice of life, so it provides interest
and excitement to a dress rin collar and suffs, or trimming.
This is a season in which a great deal of attention is being!
paid to trimming embroidery is quite a little used, and a
very new note is the use of reptile leathers, such as have
been used heretofore for shoes, for piping, collars and cuffs.
V
fhqe Boy-
Braid and gros-grain ribbon have their innings and so have
fur bandings.
Cart before the horse trimmings before the fabric itself
but now let us consider that end of the situation. What is
new? Two fabrics quite different in nature velvet and
moire. Velvet for afternoon and evening, and moire like
wise. Of course velvet is seen only in black or brown for
afternoon wear, but moire appears in quite colorful garb -red,
green and orange, as well as navy and black.
New friends often cause us to lose interest in old, but not
this season. Such fabrics as moire and velvet can never re
place the crepes, both dull and lustrous. Crepe de chine and
flat crepe belong to the first branch of the family, and crepe
satin is an alliance of both. If the dull side of crepe , satin
is used, the lustrous side turns face up in trimmings if the
lustrous side forms the entire dress, the dull side adorns it.
Winter and chilly winds naturally cause a loss of interest
in the sheer fabrics georgette, crepe roma and crepe eliza-
beth except for evening wear. There are brave souls who
will venture into the deepest snow drifts so attired, and they
are fashionably correct, but the thought freezes the marrow
in my bones. .
Speak of sports wear to a man, and his mind turns to
thoughts of knickers and vivid golf socks, or riding togs, or
heavy kating sweaters. Speak of a sport dress to a woman,
and she thinks of a dress which she may not have the re
motest intention of wearing for any of these purposes 7
merely something that is not strictly suitable for afternoon
wear; . '' ','
The term sport wear now includes the old "tailleur" or
(Continued on pace 3)
Jar front
Kaf owy'f Fall Opening Days
All Stores JWill Unveil Their Show Window
Wednesday Evening, Promptly at 7:30 ' :
.1
YpU are invited to participate in this Great Event which will draw thousands and thousands of peo
ple to the downtown district. -1
V,
These, jvindows have been
artistically x decorated for
this great occasion and will
display uie latest lasmons
!
: s i i r r fw f m .1 x s 1 1! il a 1 1 -:v jo. jutt -c.i rsr
I . r
Once more comes autumn with 'its tingle oflanticipation for new events, new fashions. Here you
may learn every important detai 1 of the mode; .Of what you will wear" from" head to toe and of
how you will Wear it if you would be smartly distinguished - -
; ; ; COME TO THIS GREAT AUTUMN STORE
! : WANDER AND LOOK AROUND AS YOU PLEXSE
Salem SL : - Portland Silk Store
463 State St. .362 Alder St. '
THE FRENCH SHOP
H 1
1 -M .
B - fl
In harmony with the lines
of style
Anticipating the pre-requi-sitives
of smartness?
Interpreting style in .terms
of good taste-
Combining correctness and
quality for every -occasion-
Always for your "plaisir
, et service V
i
M. Biiffe Morrison
Masonic Building:
115 North High
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