THE OREGON SUNDAY jbURNAL, PORTLAND,, SUNDAY MORNING, MARCH 16, 1919
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Text by Caroline Harper
lines iror
Designs by E J, Buckman
.Text by" Adelaide Byrd
Styles by Jeannette Hope
Quaalmit
Sfemcilesi Olklotln
FASHION is picking ucbenvtably
quaint stuffs to make kiddle'
clothes of that there Is simply no
resisting the temptation to make
them up. Then add to that first
temptation the second and even strong
er one of these charming designs,
and there is no hope,, of not succumb
ing. ," ( !
There Isn't a single one of the charm
ing quartet that the most amateur of
home dressmakers can't get away with ,
In the first place, they are mostly yoked,
and that alone makes any dress vast
ly easier to make. Then the trimming
is the simplest matter ever. And on
the whole, they are all on the "straight"
with no dlfficuit.coropllcatlon of line.
Wo will cnnntrtor the delightful lit
tle thing worn by milady' perched on
the stool first: Truly, it almost ex
plains itself, so obviously simple is
the whole cut of It Choose a well
fttttng yoke with close, round neck and
kimono shoulder. Gather there to the
rest of the dress and make your hem
-of .a contrasting stuff. But do, pray,
let unbleached muslin do the contrast-'
tag in yoke and hem, . and choose J a: ;
bright bit of a? calico for the rest of
the frock. Note the , pretty line of
the cuff here. It's a circular.
Just a. bit different' Is Ahe yoking oft
the nest model. As ai matter of fact
the real yoking occurs under what ap
pears to be a yoke, but happens to be
a deep, ' deep collar. Again it is the
close kind with snug round neck, sleeve
in one, and the rest of the frock
straight and gathered. Can you imagine
anything more attractive for the mak
ing than one of those prim figured
: voiles for the dress proper and double
organdie to do the deep round collar
tag And cuffing? That cuff is an unusual
, thing, which started out to be conven-
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difficult. Of course, if you - don't want
to make a strictly suspender frock of it,
you can make it truly yoked and Just
simulate the suspender part of tt Which
' will mean that you get a 'good little
blouse pattern to begin with; one
rather sigh : of neck than low. Make
it of a plain colored stuff and attach
thereto the skirt in a bright gingham
or percale. It is little more than a
tube, this figured part of the dress with
its top .decoratively cut into a point
front and back. The straps go across
lco and touched up with , the muslin T
The plan, of the frock is simple enough.
, to he sure; being the usual straight
f rom-the-sh'oulder type with its sleeve
, in one. Then the collar is a simple
turn-over and, the gilQt just what It
appears td be. If you ara a reason
ably experienced cutter, you won't need
pattern help at all here:
Truly,, it couldn't be more distinctive,
this neighboring , frock with color
touches, in narrow side panels and ef
fectively at the throat. It is one of
Unbleached Muslin Trims On Frock and Makes
Another :-
tionally narrow all the
way round, but chang
ed Its mlad in favor of
widening i with excel
lent effect right where
it wouldn't be missed.
Thinking about
something dressy for
her? Yes.' that is a
problem.; Still, if . a
get some crepe da
chine in a. bright polka
dot to. begin with and
a little more crepe dj
chine In a p' ' ; color,
either to match or con
trast with the figured
stuff, the third model
ought to prove a won
derfully ' happy solu
tion to your problem.'
Here the ee yoke la
nothing mere nor less
than a short Jumper.
Attached to a "perfect
ly straight gathered
sklr, with a pair of
tucks to : break ' what
might otherwise be un
pleasant monotony of
line, it makes one of
those conveniently tm
sleeved dresses that
come with separate
guimpe. Which last Is
as you see the conven
tional kind of guimpe
with close, round neck
finished off with a
frill and short sleeve
set in. Now that isn't
hard. Is it?
While not exactly
yoked, the suspender
thing at the end of
the line has the
same effect without
being - a i bit more
Yoke Effects Are Strong
the shoulders as straps should and
slip thru slits in the skirt part. What
'do you I say to handkerchief linen - for
the blouse part and a crisp percale
for the skirt? .
Unbleached muslin is attaining to a
tremendous popularity in things for the
youngest set. ' That it can make a whole
frock as effectively as It, can trim an
other of contrasting stun is given
charming proof in the two little dresses
.Illustrated. Now can't you just see
that cunning little thing with the panel
gllet and the belt made of quaint ,cal-
those primitively simple things, kimono
sleeved, square of neck and straight
up and down. The side paneling is the
easy matter of cutting away narrow
strips of the mualln and filling in with
the figured material. Calico could do
that so well, too.
h, the' possibilities of these old-time
Materials are just legion.' They -are
especially becoming; to the wee folic.
and then . they are so very decorative
of themselves that they don't entail
teat deal of trimming either self or
i otherwise.
What is
New in Dress and
Accessories
A New Twist
to the Suspender
Frock
And Now the Slip-Over Adopts Calico
Don't Miss the Flowing fCimoad Sleeves
!TOR cnld you blame anything for
TV adopting calico; it's such an la-"
trinsicly' pretty, and - possible
thinsa Here you have attractive evi-
dence ot its possibilities in a slip-over
dress, or two of them, to be precise.
, The little sashed thing to the left has
decided apron tendencies, which makes :
It as easy to make as it is effective
once made. Hound of neck and sleeved- i
In-one with a perfectly irresistible flare,
and straight from the neck down, you
could easily cut it without help, don't '
you think? A contrasting stuff, plain
colored vhambray, for instance, would
be ever- so effective for making the ,
oet round collar, the string belt, and
hem addition. Then little white bone
buttons might be used to treat the
snoutuer and cuff.
There Is a hint of the oriental about
the neighboring delight with its flar
ing kimono sleeve, and suggestion xf "
the. mandarin in the straight jacketlike
tendencies of the dress part. A com-'
bination of plain and figured sUk would
make a stunning litUe dress-up of it a
foulard, for instance, and a plain col
ored crepe de chine. With all its ori
ental flavor, tho; the dress might eas
ily be built on elaborate apron lines.
You see the overdress is -really noth
ing more than a straight panel back "
and front with side extensions forming
a curtailed skirt. - Buttons covered In
the unfigured 'stuff can be used with ,
good effect on the shoulderllne.
WELL, Polly-O,
Interesting bits for you this
week,-1 have. If you remember,
I was to treat you to silk-suit news. 1
Am particularly interested in the silk
suit for two very excellent reasons. One
' of them is that the mode is taking the
silk suit very close to its heart. And
the other is that 1 consider the suit of
a silken fabric an entirely practical and
adaptable element of the average ward
robe. I have been singing about box coats
and tube frocks and sleeveless suit coats
tor a good many weeks now. And now
I come to tell you that all those charm
ing things are being combined in one
costume, and being developed in aatiu
or taffeta or a -combination of silk and
wool. True, there is the strictly tai
lored suit of tricotine or velour or gab
ardine, but that we "have always witn
us." .But I know scores of women who
don't feel right in the "strictly for
informal theater wear or formal lunch-"
eon occasions in the springtime. There
must be something else in the wardrobe
t answer this need. Of course, it might
be a one-piece dress and a separate coaf
or wrap; ut, my dear, is that costume
ever as chic on the highways as a trig
bit of a suit? And when, It happens to
be suit and dress, too. as this sleeveless,
coated thing is that 1 am getting so en
thusiastic about, think ef the economy
and the transforming possibilities of it.
I saw a perfectly stunning little thing
ef the type only the other day. Black
taffeta it was, the frock of it the tubiest
of tubes, with string sash, which, by the
way, hung well below the short coat and
was caught up in a tantalizing loop
somewhere in the vicinity of : milady's
knee. The straight little coat of It was
frontless, as all good smart little coats
are this time, the frontless part color
fully filled In with, a 'tricotine " vest of
Chinese red. which waa made stagger
ingly pretty by allover embroidery of
tarnished-metal. threads. The sleeve of
the dressremember, the coat was
sleeveless-was - conventionally snug to
the elbow, whence it went off - into a
moderate flare, but the compelling thing
about this sleeve was an undercut! of
the Chtnese red stuff. v
And that is a small point Of interest
that you want to keep in mind for fu
ture service, s It's quite the fetching
thing to have undercuts and vest match
whatever (he type of suit, so long as it
is vested. Ohe other suit that 1 saw
an Incredibly smart combination of
taffeta and tricotine, the former .making
most of the suit and the woolen stuff
the collar and facings boasted a Persian
silk "front.": You can't imagine how
effective itand the narrow cuffs of the
silk were against the somber navy of
the suit background.
Polly, -1- just received the very, most
stunning string of lapis beads you ever
saw. And now I am stewing over a. -costume
to go with them. You see, I
want to build my frock, or whatever it's
going to be, around. the beads. Funnv.
isn't it, getting your trimmings first
and your dress afterward? One thing
I am assured I will get to go with those
beads, and that la a matching felt hat
for seashore wear. . Keep the bouquets,
dearie. I got the idea from a terribly
clever person across the water. I think
it's a good one, don't you? You might
get a hat to match your wonderful am
ber string.
There are other charming things that
I want, to tell you, tho, before I take
my leave of you. . They are making
wonderfully pretty blouses of the print
ed silks and some .'Of calico-printed or
gandies. As you would suppose, these
blouses don't need much: else but line,
their patterns "making" them. : Ana
the tine is usually the primitively1,, sim
ple kind: round neck, you know, uneol
Isred, of course, flaring sleeve and, more
often than otherwise.: peplum.
Speaking of blouses and particularly
Double Straps, Just for a Change!
"rOTJ can't Imagine a wee garment
Y easier to 'make or more dis-
UncUve when it Is made. Ifti
a s pender, too, and that alone Is bound
to make it please. Two perfectly straight
lengths of material joined at the sidea
and cut into double strap extensions at
top, and that is Quite all there is to
Then the guimpe is Just what you
: expect a guimpe to be a bit of a waist
with close, round neck and sleeve set
m. Just by way of relieving any sug
gestion of severity that the overdress
r may be responsible for, this underpart
is demurely frilled at neck and wrists.
Batiste would be charming , for part
v of it 'and calico, gingham or a con
trasting chambrar for t'other.
. the colorfully printed kind reminds me
to tell you something new in sweaters,
.and that is the short sleeveless thing
crocheted rather than knitted. It's
: : slip-over-, of course, and sometimes treat
ed to a splashy self -design in front.
Can you picture one in warm yellow
with a big black 'butterfly thereon, then
a ' black and yellow silk blouse under-
neath it all?
Hut I must be definite about my going .
-' this time, lady fair. But what wouldst
' have me taJk about next week? Jeune '
fills things? With pleasure, cherie. So '
au revolr.
- Tour own,
CAROLINA HARPER. -
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can be washed off with a damp cloth
and be ready for the next meal should
endear them to the heart of every house
keeper. Of course, for more formal use
they are a bit', bizarre, but for sum
mer cottage use, or the. little Informal
luncheon table they are delightful. ,
The first thing to 40 is to cut your
stencil. This can be done from a heavy,
brown paper oiled with paraffin, or from
regular etencil paper to be bought by
the yard. Trace the design with a
This May Be Worked Up in Two r
More Colors
LAST summer thia very practical
vogue waa just in Its beginning
stage. One saw occasional sets
of either the shiny oilcloth in
white or black stenciled for porch use,
or else the dull -peboled doth which
those who are proficient In stenciling
say la the better medium to work with.
It can be bought by the yard in wall
paper shops, some needlework and nov
elty shops or from art and kinder
garten supply houses. It Is being made
in a delightful buff or tan color as well
as in white.
It does not seem necessary, to dwell
on the practical aspect of these . at
tractive table seta The fact that they'
dollies or place vnats that will supple
ment either runner or centerpiece.
Then you will select your color
scheme. The design given here permits
of one, two,, three or ur colors In
combination. Brown stenciling on the
tan mats would be attractive provided'
they were to be used in an otherwise
colorful dining room or porch' room.
Or leaves can be green and stems, too,
an1 the flowers nlii. with a. DM blue
line and a heavier ; green border. Or
keeping the leaves green, let -the center
and lavender, and the outer ones blue,
or a purplish . pink. The line surround
ing the design may be black for con-
- trast. " . : I' 1
Mix oil paints for your stencils, and
it might be well to mix with them
Just a little of white-or cream enamel
to give them a gloss and make them
- waterproof or else 60 per cent of white
varnish. Dapple them on with a regu
lar stencil brush one with short, stiff
bristles. Be sure to get well into the
'corners and don't Lave your paint too
. thin or it will run under the stencil
board. Wipe off the tinder side of the
stencil before you lay it down to re-
, peat on the next corner. It can be
fastened to the oilcloth with thumb
tacks. - - -
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The Smaller Corner May Prove More Adaptahl
piece of carbon on. th paper, place it
over a piece of glass.: a marble-topped
table or a picture and cut out the de
sign with a very sharp knife.' Be sure
to-make the outline clean and the cor- v
neVs sharp. Two sizes of stencil are
given, and it might be well to cut both .
so that you can use the .larger one on
large square esnterpieees or table cov- e
ers, also on runners and . larger table
mats, and the smaller cornermen the
If you cannot get the thin pebbled
cloth anywhere near you, the heavy,
shiny cloth may be-used Instead -and
that gloss and odor taken off by rub
bing it down with ground pumice pow
der mixed with 'oil. The odor of paint
and oilcloth will disappear if It is left
in the air for a few days after being
decorated.
Edge are left raw as a rule, the
they can be braid-bound if preferred.
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Runner With Urge Stencil A Square Cloth Using Larger Comer
Redistributing Wear A Lesson on Hems
EVERY housewife is acquainted
with the. principle of redistribut
ing wear as it applies to rugs,
carpets and other floor coverings.
Namely, It is to reverse the position of
the rug or carpet so that the hard usage
comes on that portion of the fabric that
is in the best condition to stand it- But
that this idea may be profitably carried
to other articles covering flat surfaces
is not so generally realized Towels,
tablecloths, sheets and pillow cases may
all be so handled as to greatly lengthen
their time of service, altering their
position or shape a little so that an
other portion of the garment will take
up the strain. With the towel, fasten
a tape to both ends. Then when in use
: Its position is repeatedly reversed and
the wear so distributed that the towel
lasts much longer. The tablecloth wears
in - the - Ironing by being : continually
creased along the same lines. Cut off
a strip ofthe goods from two adjacent
sides so that when folded the crease
will fall along new lines. The pillow
1 case if made open at both ends, like
: the bolster, is a far more durable prop- :
osition than the case. closed at one end.
Change the position of your sheets on
" the beds from week to week. While it
is the proper method to always have
: the wide hem of the sheet at the topi
' of the be7, the sheets wear much bet
ter for an occasional reversing.
Old roller towels cut down into band
- towels for ordinary use; tablecloths into
" good napkins. The wear in the table
cloth invariably appears in the center '
': first. : An economy practiced in some :
homes is to take the two ends of a
large-tablecloth whose center is no long- r
er presentable, cut them .off and, hem
ming, join together with the open -Dutch
or briar stitch. This is especial- '
ly dainty if done in colored silks to
matoh the design of your china.- If
your table top has a high polish, the
effect of the wood under the fancy
. stitching will be quite unique. The par- .
tially worn dinner cloth, thus cut down '
and prettily stitched, makes unusually
oalnty and original breakfast linen.
Corset Steels
ww THEN a steel drops out of the ,
half-worn corset there hardly
r seems any use to which it can
any longer be put; but if you will save -a
couple of these steels, especially the
: wider and more pliable ones, they . will
prove a , valuable accessory to your
sewing basket. When sewing buttons, :
hooks and eyes or snap fasteners on -a
hem - where; it is desired- that the
stitching does not show 'thru to the op
posite side of. the garment, as, for in-; 4
stance, when sewing the fasteners on
the front of a fine lawn or crepe de
chine shirtwaist,, leave one end of the
: hem unstitched so as to insert your '.
steeL Your needle accordingly will pass
r thru only one thickness of -goods in
sewing on the fastener.
Corset steels are also handy in mak-
- ing bags opening at the side and used -for
all sorts of utility purposes Place ,
- the steel across the top of the bag to
brace the stitching. It is strong and
pliable, and in the end will , serve its
purposes far better than a piece - of "
wood, no matter how light. 4 -
.- T ' yjr AYBB you thing you know how
I VI to hem, but this Is not such a
simple matter as It sounds.
There are several ways of making a
hem and each has its special uses.
' For Instance, there Is the rolled hem.
This is used to finish a raw edge, which
I not to be conspicuous. Rolled hems
are used oftenest on thin materials, and
when trimmings of lace are to be ap
plied. This is a particularly good finish
for lingerie. To make this hem you roll
the raw edge, not too thickly" with the
Viumb and forefinger of, the left hand.
Just an inch or so ahead of the needle
which secures it with the usual hem-,
ming stitch. A decorative hem can be
made of this for handkerchiefs, house
hold linens, etc., by overcasting it with
a contrasting thread.
Next there is the faced hem. This
- consists of applying a separate piece of
material for purpose ot economy or
adornment. The regular hemming stitch
is used to catch the too of the applied
piece to the goods.
- A slip-stitch betn is' good for woolens,
velvets, silks, etc., where the stitches
should hot -show, on the right sid at
'all. The hem is basted, and the hem
ming thread is fastened under the fold
A few-stitches are made on the fold
. of the hem, then a little beyond a few
v very tiny ones are made on the mate
ria.!, merely catching up a thread at a
time.' This process is repeated around
the whole hem. If the stitches taken
into the material are straight with he
weave of the cloth tbey will not be
visible from the right side.
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