THE OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL, PORTLAND, SUNDAY MORNING, JANUARY 26. 1919
A Mew FinisfiWash
t
uttoia-oinis'
Text by Caroline Harper
ihor tMeiiwali
Designs by Ejj. Buckman
Styles by Jeannette Hope
v
Text by Adelaide Byrd
WARDROBES. even the best
eared for of them, begin to
look Just a wee bit scrubby
about thl time, don't they?
Logically, then, you are considering
'some new additions In the way of
frocks, and you find It much more diffi
cult to plan for the time between sea
eons. If that la your problem, then may
be the artist and I can help you out.
In the first place, I certainly would
not advise any unchangeable extremes,
for the spring fever for new duds Is
not far off. you know. Rather would
I suggest a frock of almost severe sim
plicity and then some removable trim
mings, the kind that at once dress up
and change- the line. And that Is where
the clever 'Idea of the wash button-on
comes In.
Look into the smart matter of the
trio that goes: vest, panel, vest. In
each Instance the foundation Is the
very easiest and most effective kind
of dress to make. Serge, satin or
taffeta are modish . and serviceable.
Tressed up tn crisp organdie they are
doubly serviceable and startlingly good
to look at besides.
For ths pointed panel vest, a perfect
ly straight length, slightly curved at
Crisp Organdie Additions
the sides in some semblance of an
hole, perfeotly straight in back and
finished off into a point in front is the
plan. Cut the neck line quite gener
ously round and have the opening on
one shoulder. There are deep pointed
complementary cuffs of organdie and an
effective hem treatment of the same.
The dress is provided with light bone
buttons and the organdie additions with
buttonholes.
Really. I can't imagine anything more
tastefully pretty than taffeta and or
gandie after the plan of the frock in
the middle. Really, it s wonderful what
the right bit of contrast can do to a
somberly simple dress. Here the con
trast Is "the very easy matter of a wee
turnover collar, long flaring cuffs and a
perfectly straight front panel with
string sash and pockets to suggest the
A Novel Way
BY THIS time one's winter clothes
are verging on the shabby, es
pecially If one has been limited
to one or two frocks for service wear.
This new idea of using washable trim
mings la the very thing for freshening
up the frock of serge, jersey, velour or
satin. The three figures shown here
with give some excellent suggestions for
adding to the plain underdress.
Take that pocket and bretelle com
bination, for example. It's a very sim
ple matter of patch pockets buttoned
on to the skirt with large pearl but
tons, bretelles that go over the shoul
der and button there, and cuffs that
flare and button to the long tight sleeve.
The belt Is also of wash material, or
gandie in this instance.
Handkerchief linen, embroidered, falls
In two kerchief points at the back of
a plain frock and is confined with a
narrow belt of self -material. The front
of this has . two surplloed ends which
cross at the waist line. In fact. It
looks as U a huge square of embroid
ered linen were folded diagonally, and
crossed in front like PriscUla's ker
chief. Pique for collar, cuffs and wide belt
makes the attraction in the last figure
if this group. Can't you see what this
button aet would do to serge or even
I velveteen? Why, one could have all
' three sets for one dress. It is just
& matter of enlarging the usual collar
and cuff set to include such things as
belts, pockets and shoulder straps.
Really, there Is no Unit to the pos
sibilities of these tub adjuncts. j It Is.
only a very': little thing that makes a
frock wonderfully becoming or hopeless
ly unbecoming. And the well-dressed
woman la the wise woman who knows
the Importance of vthose J'little things"
and just what ones are becoming to
her. Usually it is a neck line, or. a
- decided line around the waist or the
smart turn of a cuff. Emphasize the
strong point, make 'it of tub stuff, and It
will always be fresh, h
demureness of the apron. A sprinkle
of hand embroidery adds much to the
general effect
How about that black satin that you
just finished? Stm you don't feel a If
It Is finished; it "needs" something.
Well, try organdie after the manner of
the surplice-vested dress sketched. Ton
won't have difficulty cutting that vest.
You might be thrifty and use a sur
plice bodice pattern, omitting the sleeves
and swerving the sides into points.
The deep applied tuck explains itself.
That buttons on, please note, and snaps,
too, in between the buttons.
A more elaborated Idea of applied
tuck Is expressed in the unvested dress
with the cunning frills on its remov
able trimming.. That applied tuck, or
flounce, if you will, might better be eut
on the bias, then the charming dip at
the back will be decidedly easier "to
achieve. Here buttons alo$ie do the
fastening.
Take a perfectly plain navy serge
frock, cape collar it, cuff it, sash it,
and panel it with crisp white organdie
after the manner of the neighboring
model, and you have something that is
always going to retain a certain satis
fying freshness. Quite the only thing
that you need to be told about here Is
to the Plain Dark Frock
the cuffs. They begin on a snug band,
and gathered thereto is a double un
crossed fold that gives a delightful
piMed effect, over the arm.
Nor Is there any partioular reason
why all the wash button-ons should
be white. Following the charming ex
ample set by the latest in neckwear,
they might just as charmingly be in
pink or old blue or even a bright red
where good taste1 will permit. Tou
know the stunning effect of a little bit
of red against navy blue and the at
tractiveness of old blue with black.
New red organdie on navy taffeta is
a mighty happy idea for treating that
demure thing in the middle of the trio.
Really it's quite wonderful the touching
up and freshening that you can do to a
dress with the simple aid of these tub
able; button-ons.
to Freshen Up the
Adjuncts of Tub Material
Interest Centers in These
WHAT IS NEW IN DRESS AND
ACCESSORIES
POLLY DEAR.
If you want to experience all
the tweet torture of a perfectly
legitimate temptation, take yourself to
a matinee one of these days and con
oentrate on the hats you see there,
i After that go to Mimi'a salon and con
centrate some more. ' By that time hub
by's bank account is in Imminent peril.
But I know you want me to give all the
harrowing details of the temptations,
don't you?
To generalize a bit, tho, I see more
of satin than anything else in the fas
cinating headgear of this mid-season
time, and a very, very great deal of
black. Of course,, there are other stuffs
taffeta, for Instance and other colors,
an interesting green called almond, a
warm tan and then some carnation ; still
they only prove the black satin rule.
As for trimmings, there are the rub
ber fruit and flowers that I mentioned
to you last week, jet fringe, much em
broidery and more handmade flower
trimmings, and a great deal of the
time, no trimming at all. The untrim
med ' hat Is a gracefully draped thing
mostly, and invariaJaly a draped turban.
But I just must tell you about the jet
fringed one X saw. That was a draped
turban, swirl after swirl after the East
Indian fashion. There was not another
thing on it, my dear, but the fringe.
. That was made of jet bugles and buna,
fully an Inch over the hair all the way
round.
Again the un trimmed hat may be seen
voluminously veiled. Another turban,
black satin, of course, but more la
Russe this time, took unto itself a long
Winter Frock
on- Serge and Satia
Removable Trimmings
veil of henna colored Georgette laid la
pleats at the back and after that drap
ed about the neck of the wearer.:
Shapes I should say are for the most
part email, but there is a noticeable-, re
turn of the picture hat In these confec
tions of sarin, too. One awfully stun
ning thing that I saw in Mimi's .salon
swerved way off to one side, and splash
ed against brim and crown of the
"dqvn" aide were half a dozen or more
cat tails, or pussy willows; au naturel,
they .were,, and tremendously effective
on the shiny black.
They tell me that later on in the sea
son we are going to see hats of raffia.
One I have already had an advance
glimpse of. Another of the ubiquitous
turban shapes done in black raffia and
embroidered in white raffia is, you don't
know how fetching. Certainly the raf
fia hat ought to "go" when warmer
days come; it Is so airy-fairy light and
so graceful. And now I think I have
told you all the really valuable and
interesting things there are to know
about the between-seasons hats. I
haven't quite finished with black satin.,
tho.
For. you see, I haven't been spending
all my week in the hat salons, no in
deedy; I did dresses, too, and this is
one big Item of Interest that I found.
My dear, they are treating the slinky,
vampy, hitherto undecorated dress of
black satin to white fur balls, to white
wool rosettes, to white wool flowers.
The furry-balled gown that I saw had a
very decided carnival atmosphere that
was instantly compelling. And you can't
imagine anything more striking than a
slinky black satin frock decorated with
flat, white woolly flowers.
- "?d H'0.1!0 leave the entrancing
subject of black satin, I just must elve
you a hint on the suits for spring. You
see a great many of the dressy kind
are going to express themselves In this
much-talked-about material. The coats
2t?st BUlta are Jacket more than
anything else, straight, and mostly
rrontless to make way for a. brilliant
bit of vest.
,.K1 wiH have to make my adieus,
tho. but I don't want to go without tell
ing you the latest in footwear. Polly
my own, they are going in for Grecian
fSff- Roany. they look Just like
the thing we used to wear in classic
plays at school, except that the modern
ized version has a heel. Narrow satin
ribbons lace over the instep and the
effect is wonderfully fetching over
stockings of contrasting color. You like
to hear about those 'little things,"
don t you? I have more for you next
week. Au revoir, then, cherle. Your
own, CAROLINE HARPER
A Floor Screen
MOSTLY every one Is familiar by
this time with the little screen
for the table lamp, to be low
ered or raised so that the glare of
the lamp is shaded from the eyes when
it is not needed. Now comes a floor
screen for the same purpose, larger
and even more decorative. In fact, it
may be part of the furniture attrac
tions', in the large living room.
A standard similar to the familiar
floor lamp is provided with a framed
oblong of tapestry, embroidered silk,
etc., and clamped in back with a screw
that will allow it to slide up and down
on the pole. Here is a good chance to
frame an old sampler or other valu
able piece of work in the same man
ner as you would for a tray, and get
th home carpenter to fasten It to a
standard made from a clothes tree.
i When Beading
WHEN placing bead work upon
silk or other goods, instead of
marking the design directly
upon the material stamp it upon fine
tissue paper of strong quality and then
baste this on your silk In the position
required for the design. Sew your beads
on to the silk, following 'the lines of
the design, and afterward cut away
the tissue paper with a small pair of
scissors. The result is exactly the
same as If you were to work directly
on the goods, with Infinitely less trou
ble for yourself, ; The same plan may
also be followed with braiding where
the braid used i aet too - broad and
HAVE you been neglecting your
invalid friends In favor of the
boys over there? Then It is
time you gave your 'attention
to the sufferers over here, now that the
boys are gradually passing beyond the
need of your knitting and bandage
making. So here is a delightful set that
will make any Invalid chirp up when
she sees it.
It includes a bed sack, cap to match.
Smaller Sleeve Motif
slippers, tray cloth and napkin. Un
bleached muslin that has been wash
ed soft might make the whole business.
It is so effective for the pretty col
ored embroidery one sees everywhere.
Or you may prefer flannel for your ln-
valid except for the tray cloth and nap
kin, of course or linen. If you can get
it.
The sack has been designed so that
narrow material can be used. The
front and back panels are straight and
go on over the head thru a square
1
Stitches Used in the Embroidery'
neck opening. The side panels are
rounded off for sleeves, and are fagot
ted to the center panel.' Ribbons catch
the side together to make sleeves, and
there ls plenty of room without too
much bulk. The cap is simply a shaped
band into which a puffed crown Is shir
red. Slippers are cut from on piece,
How to Cut
a pattern can be found In almost any
style book. The soles can be the regu
lar stiff slipper soles, and the sides
merely whipped on to them, to be re
moved easily for laundering, or the
whole slipper can be made of the latin- :
dered material and the cole Just slip
ped Into it to stiffen, it.
On corner 1 shown- vstajr tbe de-
vvrvfei tt r-
f bl - X ;
ft"
m
I
v
Comer for Jacket, Tray Cloth and . s fS J
Napkins lj
eign. This will be used on the corners
of the center panel of the sack, on the
tray cloth and on the napkin. The
larger motif runs across the front of
the sack below the square nook line
also on the sleeves. The smaller motif
Single Stitches Make Quick Work
goes on the rap and on the slippers,
tho the larger motif would fit on the
cap band' If one wanted a little more
display.
And now for the working of the design.
The simplest Of Btltche are used thru
out. Ail edges are treated to two rows
i
,f
of running stitches about a quarter of
an inch long and alternating. Two
colors should be used. The convention
ally angled scrolls may merely be run 1 .
along, as indicated, or a- row of 'smaller
running stitches in a contrasting color
may follow the real outlining. Tiny
The Jacket
the Pattern
cross -stitcha fill In the centers of the
sketchy flowers, and the rest of the
work is a case of single stitches merely.
- Be sure to use plenty of eolor and
touches of black. . The set cannot be
too gay for an invalid. Let me tell you
the way X see it worked up, Tbe ma
terial for the whole thing a lovely
buff linen, sot toe- blight but very
A' Cap to MatcH
Embroidered Wash Slippers
Made Up
cheerful. : The running stitches tm the
edges- are black and yiolet. The leaves
of the design are green and the flow
ers, blue and pink, the, scrolls are black
and violet and the tiny scratchy marks
among the flowers brown. Don't forget
to make tbe fagottlng contrast, with col.
ored cotton. If you use It. -
Wouldn't Jhla tut ' fiMt mrit
before any invalid you know?
Economies
HEN the stiff white collar be
comes worn and frayed, to pro
long Its usefulness several trips
to the laundry, turn inside out. eut off
the outside rim to one-half or one
third its width, and by thus Inverting
Its surfaces present a respectable new
collar to the public. Often, overcasting .
the rough edges will add to Its durabil
ity. The improvised Inside half will :.ot
stand the wear that its twin brother
can put up with, but as It la the least
worn portion of the collar, this treat
ment will tide over its usefulness a
couple of weeks longer,"
' The crepe de chine handkerchief has
been with ue for some tune now, and
while not the most up-to-date offering
that Dame Fashion has to present in
1U line, there are girls who find the
crepe handkerchief sufficiently suited
to their needs to carry thi suggesUon
into affect. Take your old crepe ds
chine waists of plain or colored mate
rial, eut up Into pieces of handkerchief
slse and hem or crochet a dainty edge.
One waist ought to furnish at least
three handkerchiefs, especially since
the portions of tbe waist that first
show signs of wear are not of the share
available for the handkerchief -