,'''',
Beauty and the "Grouch"
Guard Against Display of
Temper, for 111 NaturePuts
Its Mark Upon the Features
ideisori frocks
Various Linen Offerings b
January White Sedes Arc
Most Tempting to House
decl
raped and C
wife, Says Margaret Mason
THE . OREGON . SUNDAY JOURNAL, PORTLAND, SUNDAY MORNING. JANUARY 21, 1917.
II ! ... "A I
1
NT
By Lillian Rutsell
(Copyright, 1017. iiy UUUn IUuell.)
pANY a lovely face has. by bad
habits of expression, grown into
an unpleasant, wrinkled, uninter
esting sight.
We see a charming debutante or a
bride beautiful In the r;lory of love
and youth grow -in a short space of
time into a soured, petulent. plain
woman. People will remaric and
wonder.
The face is absolutely the Index of
all ceiditons within. The pretty girl
with her clear eyes, smooth skin and
clear complexion changes It all in a
few weeks when she gives in to sel
fishness, temper and sulkiness.
Sulking causes the muscles of the
mouth to droop, the eyes to become
heavy and the jaws to relax. Can you
se the sulky face become set in that
unpleasant position? There is real
danger there. No beauty, however
ideal and ethereal, can stand against
such Internal feelings.
We all know the expression of the
bad-tempered girl. Her brow is in a
perpetual scowl, her eyes stare and the
muscles of her mouth are so rirmiy
set that her entire face is distorted.
She Is one to be avoided on all occa
sions. - She possesses the quality of
mind that disrupts every situation and
causes disaster to all sociability.
She is the embodiment of selfishness
and conceit. If such a girl is not dis
clpllned she will not only grow to be
an ugly member of society, but she
will sow destruction all through her
life and reap nothing but misery.
Parents are much to blame for the
disposition of their children. It is en
tirely in their hands to offer ugly, un
mannered, crude animals to society, or
refined, cultivated, charming young
women.
Why should girls be allowed to be
impertinent to their mothers? What
mother with any sort of stamina will
permit her daughter to dictate to her?
Girls need watching and disciplining
today more than ever in the past.
Thera is double the temptation today
than ever before. The beach, the
dance hall and the tearoom, the auto
mobile, skating Tink and cosy lunch
room all hold attractions that seem I
harmless, but have the power to entice t
the strongest-minded girls from re-1
sponsibilities and duties. f J
I
silk stockings, hair on the legs is as
annoying as on the arms. '
If you have a dark fuzx on your
arms, take enousrh Dure neroxida of
nyarogen to wet the hair: add a few
drops of ammonia. This will bleach
tne hair so that it is less consnicuouft.
ana me ammonia gradually will kill
me roots. This treatment may havs
io oe repeated several times.
The hair in the nose never should
be pulled out. but at least once a week
a bit of cotton saturated with pure
peroxide of hydrogen should be placed
in the nostrils while one 4s dressing.
This will bleach the hair" so that it
win not be noticeable.
For Toroid Liver.
A teaspoonfnl of best olive oil taken
every morning half an hour before
breakfast and the-same quantity half
an hour after the latest meal of the
day will be found very effective for
liver spots on the face, if you will
only persist in the treatment. In a
few months this will excite your liver
to proper action, clear your skin and
otherwise improve your health. The
unsweetened juice of a lemon in a
glass of water every morning before
breakfast Is also beneficial for this
purpose.
Drink plenty of cool, not Iced, water
between meals. Never eat hot breads
rich pastries or sauces. teat plenty
of fruits and vegetables that do not
contain much starch.
Blackhead Eradicator.
Here Is an excellent blackhead erad
icator: One ounce tincture of green
soap and 30 drops peroxide of hydro
gen. Mix and apply with absorbent
cotton, rubbing thoroughly. Leave on
half an hour, then wash off with cold
i.water. Do this four times a dav.
Yellow Neck.
Apply this lotion: Four ounces of
alcohol, 2 ounces of rosewater, 15
drops of tincture of benzoin. Use skin
food also.
I
WELCOME HOME CORPS
, So "Tommies" Call Them.
Endell Street
Vinsnlrnl Tinilmi
1 -" s1"" ictiw nu, eriu mannea - entirely by women from on
to the point of fearing you. It is bet- . erating-room to the closed, black ele-
ter to let your daughters fear you and
be good than to hold you in contempt
and go wronn. I consider every moth
er responsible for the beauty and man
ners of her daughters.
Children reflect their home sur
roundings in their manners abroad.
What mother can resist criticising
the manners of the children who visit
her children?
They are unconscious of it, but she
is placing the mothers of those young
visitors in their proper places.
Too bad more mothers do not profit
by the manners of other people's chll- I
drn. A girl's outlook on life should
be cheerful, hopeful and beneficial.
She should be taught from the cradle
to be generous and give. Divide her
precious sweetmeats and favorite toys.
She should be compelled to obey her
mother in all things naturally under
standing that her mother has the qual
ities to demand such respectful obedi
ence. Children who get into mischief are
uninterested in their toys. Even small
children may be occupied sensibly. I
can remember when my mother save
me a rag and a little pall of water and
told ma to clean a window pane a foot
square. I was happily occupied for
hours and out of mischief. After that
aire always gave me some sort of oc
cupation. She allowed me to sharpen
ner pencils with a patent sharpener,
To be sure, I destroyed a few pencils,
but I was happily occupied.
Children Imitate their elders. What
little girl has not dolled herself up in
ner mothers long skirt and trailed it
through the &irty,atreet with ecstatic
enjoyment?
Accept that situation. Understand
that you are the model for your daugh
ter in every way, in facial expression.
which- is a reflection of your inner
thoughts. In conversation and the
manner of your speech, In deportment
ana in religion.
Teach your girl the love of God and
his beneficent grace. Everything else
must emanate from that impression.
Max them respect religion suffi
ciently to speak of it in daily conver
sation, not in whispered awe. It is
something to be proud of. and is the
foundation of all love and all beauty
or raina ana body.
xi your aaugnters are well man
nered, pleasant to look at and speak
me ii-ngusn language oroDerlv. you
may be a proud mother, for there are
very few such girls in America today.
To Reduce the Bust
Gentle massage night and morning
with spirits of camphor will reduce
the bust. Any vigorous exercise in
volving the arms, muscles of the arms
and chest will help you get rid of su
perfluous flesh. Exercises with chest
weights, rowing, swimming, boxing
and fencing are excellent.
e-
vator that reeks of disinfectants, has
won a name among the Tommies.
There is something "different" about
it not measured in terms of appliances
and appurtenances. The difference is
atmosphere.
People about London see quiet, busy
women moving through the crowds and
wearing brown uniforms with blue
shoulder-tabs, with the letters. W. H.
C. Soldiers call them the "Welcome
Home Corps" but they are the Woman's
Hospital Corps, who run the Endell
Street hospital all themselves.
The work of the corps in France dur
ing the early months of the war was
so conspicuous that the military au
tnorities gave them a hospital in Lon
don, not far from Covent Garden, the
great flower market.
In this huge building with Its 570
beds over 2000 operations have been
performed and more than 3000 X-ray
photographs taken all by women.
Sympathy, tenderness and the fac
ulty for understanding when a fellow
wants to be comforted or let alone are
attractions not in Ithe government's
specifications for Endell street. But
Tommies know about them and hun
dreds ask on arriving at the railroad
stations to be placed in the ambulances
of the Welcome Home Corps.
Tommy knows there's nothing like
the soft, soothing hand of a tender
woman to stroke his forehead when
the fever's got him. He knows he
won't get, that treatment afe. the ordi
nary human repair shop. So if luck
is with him ha draws a berth in an
Endell street ambulance.
Dr. Flora Murray is chief physician
with 15 doctors and seven assistants,
including surgeons. bacteriologists.
pathologists and every grade of medi
cal expert. Even the stretcher-bearers
are women and the orderlies, too, wear
the brown uniform skirt.
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' u X
By Margaret Mason.
Y you still have a little money left
after Christmas and New Tear's,
don't worry, you won't have it aft
er January White Sales!
January white sales have become as
established a custom in all the best
shops as well as furniture sales in
August I don t quite see now tney
have the face to call them white sales
any more, however. The daring cut or
some of the newest lingerie nas cer
tainly caused a blushing plnkness to
prevail, and the alleged whits sale is
no longer pure white or pure or white
Things are even beginning to iook a
bit black for the white sale. What.
with all the present erase for black
chantilly lingerie, nobody would ever
ba afraid to go to bed in the dark if it
was in one of the exquisite new black
chantilly nighties. They are almost as
light as they ar dark, anyway, u not
mors so.
A streak of yellow appears often on
the purest silk combinations, and
mauve, cerise and Copenhagen disrupt
the pink perfection of many a com
bination and chemise.
For those that have pink silk yearn
ings and only pink eotton earnings the
pink batiste lingerie this season is
reallr lovely. I saw a bird of a pair
of pink wash crepe pajamas dotted all
over with bine birds and a pink crepe
nightie covered with blue and white
butterflies that was a decidedly fly
little garment.
The white sales not only offers cov
ering for your back, but for your bed
and board as well.
The linen sheets hemstitched em
broidered, mo nog rammed and inset
with laces are markeJ down suffi
ciently to tempt the tightest of tight
wads, and as for the table linen, well
no one can resist it
Either your table linen must be
chastely and elegantly plain or It must
be profusely and lavishly mats. You i
can see that at the very lirst giuapse..
at the white sales. - i
The war time Penelopes tn Belgium I
and Francs are busy turning out gos
samer laces and embroideries while
their war lords are away. The results .
are table cloths, dollies, lunch cloths,
napkins and- luncheon sets that are
fairy-like in their fragile bean ties.
Over colored cloths of gleaming satin,
these lace and embroidery works oX
art show to advantage at luncheons,
and dinners, carrying out a set tolor
scheme. Just to carry the dolling up
of the festal board a step further, cen
terpieces of gold or sUver gauss heav
ily embroidered in gold or silver
threads are a brand new conceit. .. ...
For more conservative and dignified
taste the plain damask cloths bordered
in a broad satin stripe ana Bono-
grammed tn two places with, square
monogram, with plain satin strips bor
dered mono (rrammed napkins to match.
casmot be tffrproved upon. Of course,
an elaborate lace and embroidery piece .
is used in the center.
A very original and artistic house
wife I know dresses her dining table
up for breakfasts, home dinners and
informal luncheons in natural colored
crash cloths, hemstitched and marked
In Chinesey monograms of bios,-with
napkins done the same. With these
distinctive cloths she uses a service
of the blue and whits Chines Canton
chissa. , -
Naturally, she has them mads to or
der, or makes them herself, and the
white sales are showing wonderful
bargains in linen crash and natural
linen by the yard.
Certainly, with Its smashing prices
and crash by the yard. It la no wonder
every female these days hears ana,,
heeds the call of the whits sals. -
Room for the
y
Folks
By Mm: Mai on.
A carrier for children to be suspend
ed from the parent's shoulder and leave
both hands free has been patented by
a Los Angeles inventor.
Tlie French basket, with Its fruit and flowers, that deccrate the canning frock at the left is made bj floss arranged on a foundation of
striped silver tissues. The drapery is of shell-colored panne velvet, the bodice again being of the tissue. Miss Prim on the stairway
is dad In brocade in pastel tints, the lady nearest her wears a frock of embroidered Callot net trimmed with tubular crystal beads,
and the Very bunchy person at the right blockades the premises with folds and cascades of Hortensia blue charmeuse, blue chiffon
and hip loops of blue velvet embroidered with metallic threads. Lovely all? You know it.
4f
H'
By Mme. Qui Vive.
Copyright, 1917. by J. Keeley.
OW fortunate," observed the
fashion philosopher, "that fash
ions are not perfect We can
always pick the little flaw, spot the de
fect, note the siggy-zag of a supposedly
certain line, and thus make ourselves
happy, because -we fancy that we glori
fy ourselves by our discoveries of
faults. Perfection is detestable; even
near-perfection is odious. And because
fashion is a lovely and bountiful source
of criticism it Is something almost
human.
"Its power has a fascination. We
resolve to cultivate a magnificent dis
regard for sartorial wrappings. If
they are clean and comfortable and of
good fabric, that is enough. AU of
which nonsense to laughter inclines
us if we confess to ourselves the un
flattering truth. Clean and comfort
able! Will that suffice for the soul's
health of the lady in the looking-glass?
What will she say when she glances
out at one? Will she not put forth
her hands and plead that she may not
be left behind while all the world, clad
gayly, goes dancing on? To her you
have to answer, and the lady in the
looking-glass grows no younger as the
years roll on and on, like the turns of
a ilent wheel. To deny her a beau
tiful drapery or a graceful robe is to
endure her gentle reproach. Who has
the heart to bear that, ask I?"
If the lady in the looking-glass is
to shine and beam and dance and
prance then give to her a frock of
fflet sole decorated with silver lace.
This exquisite fabric Is fresh from the
looms of France and is a marvel to the
eye. It drapes exquisitely and needs
no trim other than Its own ornamental
surfaces.
Moire returns to us, but not in solid
form. 'It comes in stripes, alternating
either with satin, taffeta or faille.
Some of the color arrangements are
striking sea moss green is combined
with corn color and shell pink with
forget-me-not blue. Wltjj a skirt' of
stripe, bunched up here "and there in
cascades and loops, and a bodice of
nothing much more than a girdle of
satin, and a brassiere of tulle em
broidered with silver, this new material
stitches up into dashing frocks for the
merry evening.
While the edict at the beginning of
the autumn-winter season was
'straight lines," and this silhouette
scheme has been followed in frocks and
mantles, evening gowns alone have
persisted in their pursuit of bunch
and bouffancy. The farthingale
dropped away, evaporated or rusted
whatever you will and the extensions
slipped lower down. Now the tendency
Is toward the loop drapery and the
cascade, always and invariably so ar
ranged that the aides of the costume
have long broken lines, while front and
back remain as straight as two strings.
A Bullos model. Just over, is of
green satin veiled with Callot net In
faint apricot, forming a lovely glowing
tone that Is charming. Satin in used
for the oversklrt, which is draped on
either side in sweeping folds grvlng a
spread at a point Just above the knees
that causes the skirt to- scoop in. bar
rel fashion, at the hem.
FETCHING DESIGN FOR BREAD TRAY DOILIE
Superfluous Hair.
Nothing is as effective for super
fluous hair ss the electric needle; but
the needle cannot be used on arms or
legs, where it is often very objection
able. A good depilatory, and there are
many on the market, can be used, ahd
then the parts dabbed with cold cream
Now that it is fashionable to wear thin
How to Transfer Design.
If very sheer material is used, it
may be laid over the pattern and
the design traced through in pencil.
Or the design may be easily trans
ferred by placing a piece of carbon
paper on the material, shlnv sm
.down, the the design on top of the
carbon. In tracing the pattern with
1 the use of carbon paper, use a verv
isnarp pencil or a new orangewood
I BUCK,
Perhaps the best Plan in transfer.
I ring a design is to pin the sheet of
paper and the material together and
bold them up against a window pane
iwsmg me aesign. The out
lines will then be perfectly clear.
Another method la to place a bar
01 soap in a pint of hot water until
the water becomes soapy. Remove
the soap, saturate th rtMim itk
tthe mixture and partially dry. Place'
I whatever material you intend to use
on a flat hard surface, and place -the
'design on it, face downward. Place
rub hard with a tablespoon over the
pattern, umu . ,js entirely' trans
ferred. - ,'- . , -v .
Y w o, oo , A
II '
AIR and sunshine sre essential In
the room that Is choeen for the
nursery or bed etiamber to be oc
cupied by the wee folk of the house
hold. Relegate the chance guest to a
courtroom and give the kiddles the
very lightest, sunniest quarters pos
sible. Each child must have his own
bed. even If the room Is shared by the
small sister or brother.
Before we begin .with the furnishing
or decorating, see to It that the car
penter builds In for each child a low.
roomy box (put thera under a case
ment window aw a window seat If
practical). In which toys may be kept.
Then have two eta of book shelves.
for children love their very own places
for things. Having provided each child
with adequate means of keeping or
der, see to it that the law Is enforced.
A noted lecturer from the University
of Chicago said recently in a talk on
making better cltisens that the train
ing must begn in the very early days
of childhood in requiring even a child
to do his or her part. He said If a
child was old enough to kick up a rug
he was old enough to back and turn
it down. I know of no better way to
teach a, lesson of helpfulness la the
home than by first providing a room
for the children and then aoelifg that
each one In it kept order.
A splendid ides for such a room is
to have a low seat built part way
around the walls with plenty of cush
ion and covers of wash material. Do
the woodwork tn a greenish gray. Just
about the color of sage or "dusty
miller," that garden plant of our child
hood. For the walls there Is wlds lati
tude according- to the age o the chil
dren. I like a pale pink shade la wash
paint, with a frieze or border made by
cutting out "Alice In Wonderland or
"Kate Oreenaway" figures from paper.
The rug must cover the floor almost
entirely and be of wash material. Many
mothers prefer colonial rugs done "hit
or miss," with the prevailing shades
pink, picked out with black.
If curtains are neooesary havs thatn
of aheer net. with drapes and valance
of gray chlntx, the kind that has birds
and flowers In a gorgeous riot of color.
Wicker or rattan chairs are exoellent.
as they may be easily cleaned. For
bods, dressers, desks, tables nothing
could be more attractive or suitable
than wood enameled In a soft rose olnk
and decorated with motifs, having
birds and flowers the same as In the
cretonne used. This may sound elab
orate, but much of the work may be
aone oy nome talent. If any member
of the household Is gifted with a paint
orusn.
Now for pictures. Let there bo pro
ductions of the lovely old masters like
-miss simplicity." "Age of Innooonoa.
one or two Madonnas (one over each
bed Is a pretty Idea), then let each
child have a box of tacks to put up
whatever picture happens to strike his
fancy. It la such Joy to a' child to
have its individuality recognised la
this way.
Have window boxes with flowers ta
summer and little evergreens In win
ter and a shelf for the birds. SO- the
children may feed them from the win
dow. Even in the city these charming
guests may be entertained very easily
with a bit or thought on our part, and
they are such grateful guests these
cold days.
Monkey Fur.
Monkey fur is coming back . tnts
fashionable favor. It trims every
thing from the hat down.
Watch the bouffant sllhoustta ' f
some months back gradually collapse
Into some columnar proportion a
Straight lines wUl rule again .for
spring.
Green Is raging abroad as the most
fashionable color. It will be mors taaa
popular here for spring clothes.
Ahl What relief! Tour clogged noo-.
trils open right up, the air passages of
your head are clear and yon eaa
breathe freely. No mors hawking,
snuffling, mucous discbarge, head
ache, dryness no struggling for
breath at night, your cold or catarrh
Is gone.
Don't stay stuffed np! Get a small
bottle of Ely's Cream Balm from yeur
oruggisi now. apply a utile of this
fragrant, antiseptic cream In your nos
trils, let it penetrate through every
air passage of the head; soethal aad
heal tne swollen, inflamed mucous
membrane, giving you Instant relief.
Ely's Cream Balm is Just what every
cold and catarrh sufferer has been
seeklag. It's Just splendid, .
MOVIE ACTRESSES
AND THEIR HAIR
Did it ever occur to you that every
movie actress you havs seen has lovely
hair, while the most popular count
their curls as their chief beauty? In
fact, many are leading ladies Just be
cause of their attractive locks. In
qulry among them discloses the fact
that they bring out all. the natural
beauty of their hair by careful sham
pooing, not with any soap or make
shift, but with a simple mlxtuVe by
putting a teaspoonful of canthrox
(which they get from the druggist)
In a cup of hot water and applying this
instead of soap. This full cup of sham
poo liquid is enough so It is easy to
apply to all the hair Instead of Just
the top of the bead. After Its nss, the
hair dries rapidly with uniform color.
Dandruff, excess oil and dirt ars dis
solved and entirely disappear. . The
hair is so fluffy that It looks much
heavier than it is, while Its taster and
softness Is delightful.
tailsdesign is made to 'match the tray cloth printed last week. The berries should be eyelets, and the .leaves either solid or eyelets. The scallop should be heavily' padded.
FOR THROAT AND LUNGS
mmou oovaxa ajtd ooxsa
Eckman's
Alterative
soxj sr axzi T.T.smaro BsxroaxsTs
NOSE CLOGGED FROU . .
A COLO OR CATARRH
Apply Cream la Nsotrus T
Open Up Air Passages. ,
SAYS BODY IS A
POSO
FACTORY
Urges everyone to drink gUat
of hot water before
breakfast.
Jsst as coal, when it burns, leaves
behind a certain amount of incom
bustible material In the form of ashes.
so the food and drink taken day after
day leaves in tho alimentary canal a
certain amount of indigestible ma
terial, which If not completely e limine-
ted from the system each day, be
comes food for the millions of bacteria
which Infest tho bowels. From this
mass of laf t-over waste, toxins and
ywnwwuM poisons are ivniitv
sucked into the blood. -
Men and women who can't get feel
ing right must begin to take Inside
baths. Before satins; breakfast sack
water with a teaspoooful . of 4 fane
stone phosphate in It to wash out of
the thirty foot of bowels the previous
day's accumulation of poisons and.
toxins aad to keep tho entire alimen
tary canal clean, purs aad fresh. -
Thftaa erhit ssa ssviKIjs a st1lr t as A -
M-ww w "V V SllSWiVVe SfV SPSS. j
achs. colds. blUiousness, constipation.
others who wake np with bad taste,
foul breath, backache, rheumatic stiff
ness, or havs a sour, gassy stomach
after meals, ars urged to get a quarter
pound of limestone pbosphato from
tho drug store, and begin- practicing
internal sanitation. This wlU cost
very little, but is sufficient to make
anyone an enthusiast on the subject. .'"
Remember inside bathing Is mors
important than outside . bathing, be
cause the skin pores do . not absorb
Impurities into tho blood, causing poor
health, while tho bowel , pores do.
Just as soap and hot water cleanses,
sweetens and . freshens tho skla. se
hot - water and . limestone phosphate
act on the stomach.-liver, -kidneys aad
,twsisv ;--....'. juuxjt