THE OREGON SUNDAY - JOURNAL PORTLAND, ' SUNDAY MORNING. SEPTEMBER 10, 1916.
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Some Glimpses at Autumn
Fashions for Matron and
Maid Suitable School Gar
ments for the Little Miss
By Mme.
Copyright, 1810.
F YOU ere a. middle-aged lady-person
I and recall the ugly habilrnerits of
your early youth, you will be willing
to admit that the good old days may
have been good, but they weren't much
..of anything else. Perhaps they are
good only because they are old, which
Is no special credit to them. Certainly,
It was then that old Ogre Ugly Clothes
was yery much on deck, and Pennon
Thrift tomahawked many a sapling de
sire to be beautiful. You dare not tie
your bonnet strings because the ribbon
rnuet be used again, and you wore un
dies that were starched shamelessly
and tore your tender hide. All in all.
what was the use of being a, child of
nature when one was blanketed In
hideous and uncomfortable wrappings?
itwas thyen the Custom, when the
country was younger and the good
thing of the world less easily pro
cured, to cut up mother's oki gown
liito innumerable new ones for the
daughters. For trimming, the rag bag
v.as looted that source of unlovely
treasures, some worn and faded, tliat
were to be pieced together into a Kun
d&y rone or a frock for school. What
was good enough for the adult was ei
ta.nly good enough for the child In j
those times when chilren who not
poiled, "as they are now.",, and wheth
er the poor little beggar looked liKe a
human white baby or a squaw s prog
eny apparently mattered not. Renwiants
w ere In great favor. V-ag-tuxs and
bob-tails of materials were carefully
utilized. And the result, almost with
out exception, was something brilliant
ly and perl'cctlonutely Agly and un
rliildllke. This was more cruel llian the dear
mothers xf that day knew, for it is in
rly childhood that the development
ol the art understanding and the dress
sense begins.
Children are remarkabH' sensitive to
color effects, and the lieautillil appeals
to them inure strongly than many
adults realize or understand
All Is changed. Chlbln it's weir Is
comfortable and appropriate. Some of
the best "dress brains'' .f the world
ie devoting their efforts toward the
designing of suitable attire for the
small fry and, the flappers. I.anvln and
Jenny are the sartorial god-mothers of
on t h. and what they have produced
lis made many a child-heart beat, with
.:lde and happiness. And th eyes of
. tl.e world suffer less from beholding
rgllness its expressed In Inappropriate
ttupplngs of the babes of humanity, for
vhicli fact we should be deeply appre
t .alive.
Present styles, with loose fitting
lines" and deep hems, mean that frocks
can be worn out no matter how busy
a grower the little snplltiK may tie. The
kimona sleeve is still considered good
style for children's frocks, particularly
as it is the heart's Joy of the laun
dress. Furthermore, it never becomes
too small. While fashions, in a way,
follow the general fashions designed
for the mother-person, there Is only a
long-distance relationslvlp.
For everyday wear only the plainest
dresses are "voguay." Simplicity rm
Tllfled and then made minus any fuss
Is the rule. Infancy should be the pe
riod of emancipation from dl-css bur
dens, and infancy itself is so attractive
that it cannot lie improved by orna
mentation or decorative effect. Rich
trimmings, such ns Irish lace-atid other
heavily-woven laces, are utterly Inap
proprlatlve, and women of fastidious
Ideas never use them and so overdress
their children. For dressy occasions
lace is permissible, bgt only the sheer
est and the finest and the least osten
U.tlouh will do. Tho child who bears a
load of gold chains, lockets, bracelets,
ribbons, sashes and other sartorial rub
bish is an object of human pity, with-
11 her natural charms vulgarly amsked
and distorted.
Since the beginning of the school
year is here fall fashions for children
are well established.
' The waist line loiters where It wlllf
In anticipation of the coming Napo
leonic modes, of which we, have heard
rumor, there Is the lifted waist line,
which works out very nicely on frocks
Of taffetas, satins and other light
weight fabrics. On princess frocks,
With long, shaped front and back panel,
there Is the shirred girdle effect at the
tucrmal waist line, if the btidgy form of
the seven-year-old may possess an
equator, which Is doubtful. Again, we
see the long Moyen line, which years
ago was railed the GabrleiU, but this
atyle Is used more general for wash
frocks.
Bright colored buttons, particularly
bright red, appear on serge-5-dresses.
There Is a great deal of talk about the
ie of red this coming winter on coats
and suits of the big: folks, especially as
tallot exploits dashing bits of currant
red on some of their early autumn
models. Another quite riew idea Is to
havfe all tho children's clothes button
In front, so that the dear cherub may
drees herself comfortably- and easily,
without the assistance of maid or older
member of the family. Mme. Fashion
la very kind to us of late; she Is con
sidering many factors besides looks.
Clothes were never moro comfortable,
sensible or beautiful. A study of the
history of fashions Is convincing that
the world moves ever towffrd better
i things.
Cashmere will take the place of serge
to a certain extont, though the ever
present and ever-serviceable will still
be In evidence. Serge is a bit warm for
the schoolroom, even In the coldest
"weather, and women are learning to
elect heavy outergarmonts for the
youngsters rather than Indoor wear
that Is warm. Blue cashmere, shading
from Copenhagen to marine blue, are
a!l good. Also they take embroidery
nicely In silk or wool, and a bit of her
ring bone, chain-stitch or cross-stitch
in florett design is an attractive
means of Imparting a touch of charm
and daintiness to a diminutive robe.
Because Of war talk and the activ
ities of the National Guard, .there has
been designed a smart little school suit
of army cloth. This is sufltable for girls
of 10 to 16 years. The-sklrt Is plain,
with & double plait la front and rather
(wide plaits at sides and back. The
Jacket Is a small edition of the uniform
of the American aoldler. with double
. breast pockets, double hip pickets, high
, collar, medium width belt and brass
: buttons, if you please. There is a de
';: tachable blouse of old gold colored
pussy willow.'
Fr late autumn traveling, scurrying
i ever, mountain paths and hiking
: through the north woods, this suit may
.-, ft auplleaUd In khaki and worn with
Qui Vive.
by J. Keelej)
boyish shirts of madras or flannel.
Also high -array , puttees can be em
ployed to protect the stockings and a
.cunning army hat of felt completes the
outfit. An excellent model, suitable for
tnhojA, follows the .military lines, and
is made of blue serge, with flaps of red
broadcloth, very chic and dashing, and
yet not enough to be too notlceaUly
military.
Hetween season's thfre are many In
teresting trivialities ot dress, bobbing
up now and then to keep the sartorial
temperature. from becoming subnormal
For instance, a few summer veils
have bands of narrow fur about the
edges. The fur in only a suggestion,
but it always attracts attention and
tiiat is one of the alms of modern at
tire. Turbans made from old cachemlre
shawls are unusual.
Many Chinese fabrics are being used.
One reason for the Chinese Influence
is the difficulty of traveling over the
bounding Atlantic. So buyers are nos
iiiK through China for old pieces and
especially for fine Chinese embroidery.
Tl.ey say that Shanghai has more com
mercial visitors than wero ever collet-ted
before at one time In its history.
There Is a positive madness for bead
necklaces, bead trimmings and beaded
handbags.
Dyed rabbit is one of the furs prom
ised us for the coming winter. It does
not wear well, but It dyes beautifully
ami often partakes of the same color
a. Ihn costume.
Jersey mnotiers are being worn at
the late summer resorta of France".
c Fur and embroidery are combined to
form beautiful trimmings for frocks
and coats. Bands of oriental embrold-
ery are placed above or below a nar
row band of fur, or if Uie fur is broad,
the embroidery is narrow. Also, on
evening mantles gold or silver lace is
combined with fur.
Some new evening gowns take on the
classic Greek lines, which will Inspire
chortles of joy to the soul of the state
ly woman, to whom youthful fripperies
e.re a sartorial agony.
Suits and coats of velours de laine
have fur collars all of six Inches high,
lined with gay colors and are most ex
ceedingly attractive.
F.rmine has noi been popular for a
number of years. It is not a good in
vestment because it spoils readily, and
repeated cleanings mean that the pelt
turns yellow. But this promises to be
n. strong season for ermine Just the
same It Is particularly charming com
bined with other furs, particularly
moleskin and seal. It makes up into
stunning pelerines, which are going to
oust t lie scarfs and stoles of previous
seasons. Dyed rabbit Is bidding for
popularity in Paris, and appears mostly
. n irocKS. its ngnc we Kni manes "pand, deveiop and weld our mental
a fterv it eauie aim caicuchi h uitnuiiK
for fabrics that are themselves without
substance or durability.
If you happen to meet your best
friend and she is wearing a hat that
looks ns if It were made of carpet,
show not your surprise, else she will
surmise that, you are not a fashion
fan.
This carpet fabric Is in reality a va
riety of Turkish toweling. It comes in
beautiful colorings, some of which are
a bit vivid, but it is smarty and good
style. It combines nicely with velvet,
and makes up into scarf3 and bags as
well as helmets for ladles' heads'. A
new shape, covered with this material,
Is a sort of half cousin to a Jockey cap,
nr.d Its trimming consists of small mer
cury wings with points upturned to
heaven.
There Is the usual talk about the
return of ostrich, but It seems uncer
tain. Women rather fear the hat that
is heavily trimmed, since the simple
chapeaux have proved so convenient
and becoming. If ostrich is used at all
this coming winter It will be In the
flat fringe from the beautiful phan
tusles. Certainly the old time plume, in
Its original state, can have no hope
of playing a return engagement. It la
too bulky.
The high crowned droped hat made
of velvet is being exploited In Paris.
A rew shape looks almost like a bal
loon. Tlie mop cap. suitable for the
very youthful contenance, is graceful
and becoming.
Milliners complain that the sports
hat has been the ruination of the mil
linery business. Women find these
soft little headpieces so convenient
that they forget to go stalking after
dressier effects.
The wheel of fashion brings back
many a forgotten Joy. For instance,
our old friend Cluny and our old pal
Irish lace are both returning this year.
Both will be used on lingerie, which Is
being trimmed with lavlshness as be
fits the apparel of a season of exces
sive decorations.
Flounclngs for dancing gowns are
sprinkled with silver sequins. Flor
ette designs in white beading are good.
There is also a demand for real filet
ar.d llmerlck.-
Woolen yarn trimmings In scrolls,
knots, loose chain stitch and conven
tional ramage are used on one piece
frocks of serge, the skirts of which
have decidedly straight up and down
lines.
KEEPING COMPLEXION
Take rienty of Fxerrlse.
Considering the Immense amount of
money spent by women every year for
rouge and other cosmetics designed to
supply artificially the fresh complex
ion which nature no longer provides.
It Is plain that nature's favors in that
direction, are worth fighting for es
pecially as fighting along common
sense lines will win the battle.
It Is a painful fact that the tendency
of advancing age is to rob the face of
its fresh, natural color. There are ex
ceptions, but the rule is to grow whit
er, or, alas! yellower and more faded.
When the color persists in moderation
It Is a great beauty; but even then na
ture is often very unkind, for If there
be color there is too much color, and
the face usually becomes a hard brick
red, with often red and angry veins.
Very few of us, however, with 'ad
vancing years, need fear too much
color, for there Is always a remedy. It
Is the dally increasing pallor or even
discoloration of the skin we must fight
against.
Too many sick beds are an object les
son to us. or. If we need a more vivid,
picture, watch the daintiest and most
beautiful lady with approaching mI-de-mer
on board ship. Take away the
pink flush, the red lip, the bright eye.
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Keep Young
By Penelope Kncpp
itrnln not wrltlen that
T
we may
WW'
forever retain the bweet
scented manuscript of youth. J
Omar Khayyam.
'Tis not written that we may for
ever retain what old Omar pleases to
term the "sweet-scented manuscript
of youth," but It Is written tiiat by
fostering youthful thoughts and am
bitions that we may draw unto our
selves qualities and attributes which
make for youth and youthful achieve
ments. Youth, metaphorically speaking, is
but the playground, the preparatory
gymnasium, as it were, where we spin
our tops arid ride our rocking horses
the rjerior! triven us in which to ex-
moral and physical fibers
mus-
cles for the fray of life.
Youth is one big holiday filled to
the brim witli tts own effervescing
exuberance. Its handshake Is a bat
tery. Its laughter music. Its song a
rippling crescendo, its tears melting
pearls upon the wine of Innocence.
But youth cannot go on sporting and
Laughing forever. Youth must put
away Its playthings and come to the
parting of the ways. Youth must
merge into matuiity and with the
merging comes wider and greater pos
sibilities and the bigger things which
make for either success or failure.
Youth Is always fascinating, always
desirable, but it does not always1 spell
beauty. Some of the most beautiful
women in the world have passed the
meridian of life before attaining true
beauty, grace and charm. Many cases
of this kind may be mentioned, fore
most among them that of Mme. de
L'Enclos, the noted French beauty,
who It Is said never grew old. At the
age of 70 years Mme. de L'Enclos re
tained the contour of both face end
figure and was courted by men less
than half her own age, this being
the result of always keeping her mind
fresh and her thoughts youthful.
Mme. Bernhardt furnishes another
example of keeping young despite ad
vancing years. Up to the time of her
tragedy In being obliged to part with
one of her limbs, the great French ac
tress could have passed for a compar
atively young woman, so alert was
she in mind, so active in body. Mme.
Bernhardt not only preaches the re
ligion of youth and youthful thinking,
but she lives it; and. despite her in
firmity, she still abides in the mental
realm of youth.
The only way to retain youth and
to develop latent beauty is to combat
gravity, especially should be live men
tally above the thought of gravity.
The tendency of the tiuman organ
ism is downward. To sag. to droop
and shrivel, to drag and settle, is the
ever-present Inclination. When left
to its own devices the body settles.
the muscles shrink and grow flabby,
the bones become set and the tissues
waste away, thereby ruining the nat
ural beauty of both face and figure.
With advancing years the downward
propensity Increases, and If not com
bated vigorously all semblance of poise
and contour Is destroyed.
Because of this physical heaviness
and downward trend of gravity it is
much easier to bow the knee and
cross ourselves at the feet of the grin
ning gods of destruction than to rise
up In power against them. However
lr we permit inem to rule we are
doomed to deformed bodies and sag
gtng, wrinkled faces, to say nothing
of fossilized minds and weakened will
power.
The secret of beauty lies In our
ability to muffle the hoofs of gravity,
and always it is wise to speed the
day, lest long-delayed the flame of
desire burn low and we be overcome
by the monster.
It Is only by the most rigid discip
line that we may retain the natural
beauty of either face or figure. In
this fact lies food for deep reflection,
for once beauty is distorted and the
muscles begin to sag It is next to Im
possible to restore the original con
tour. and no classic feature consoles-you for
their loss.
That is why nine men out of every
ten admire freshness and healthful
ness. The thing to do is to ward off the
encroaching pallor by natural means.
Watch for it. It begins, independently
of actual ill health, anywhere between
SO and 50.
Thirty-five is a trying time for a
woman who values her looks, for na
ture has begun to lay hands on the
beauty of youth. Disguise it how we
MU3LYRA TSTeCTNTT I X&J i J'iU
, L3&5Hf 1 WSJ
I TAXING YOUR NERVES eSwhsl ' W&WJT
j A Bad ITactice. j (feggOg f L?'" ' ;
Many young girls when they first
start to work find out after a few
months' time that they are living on
their nerves; their expression is that
they are "all keyed up." This feeling
is brought on bv close confinement
and an inability to adapt onesself to I
new conditions Immediately. j
Before long some of these girls find ,
themselves in the bad habit of taking
drugs; aspirin stands high in the list.1
A small amount taken at long inter-i
vals might not work serious harm,!
but soon they look upon aspirin as i
I their best friend. Surely this habit i
leads to the taking of aspirin in great;
doses, or after a while they look j
around for something stronger. When;
aspirin fails to do its work some look
to morphia or to other harmful drugs.'
There Is no more need to live on
one's nerves while wonklng than there!
is in keeping house or doing other
work. If you find that your work
is telling on your nerves take a vaca
tion. If you are unable to afford a
vacation increase the amount of sleep
you are getting, though you have to
limit your social doings to week-ends.
You owe yourself more than you do
society and friends. Be sure to get
your quota of fresh air. If you live
too far away to walk to business In
the morning or you find the heat too
oppressive, then take your walk re
turning from work in the evening or
after your dinner.
Another important point to bear in
mind is to take a light but nourishing
meal at noon. This means eat those
things that tone up your nerves and
muscles, and omit the cold drinks and
sweets, which may please your appe
tite but irritate the nerves when taken
In large quantities. The sensible girl
spends her money on a good bowl
of soup and a refreshing salad, which
is as sustaining as it is refreshing.
Fancy cakes and iced drinks are
refreshing but not nourishing, for they
excite the nerves. They are a poor
substitute for nourishing food so nec
essary to the upkeep of the body.
Read healthy out-of-door books.
Think healthy thoughts of country,
of flowers and fields, though you only
see them orve in a great while. These
natural ways of quieting nerves and
body are so much more natural than
artificial stimulants that' In a short
time you will abhor the Latter.
Denver's Flower Girls.
The Flower Girls' association of
Denver, composed of 150 daughters of
the city's most exclusive families,
wishes other cities would copy its all-the-year-around
practice of bringing
smiles and flowers Into the homes of
the sick poor, into hospitals and insti
tutions. The flowers are donated by florists,
home gardeners and others interested
1't the association. Every Thanksgiv
ing season the Flower Girls distribute
"sunshine baskets" containing a happy
surprise for each day in the week of
Thanksgiving.
will to our friends, let us to ourselves
be honest and realize we can no longer
lay claim to the freshness and charm
of youth.
Now, complextion Is entirely a ques
tion of circulation and surface treat
ment. "Keep the blood pure," is a
platitude.
Io woman in her senses, at any time
of her life, fails to recognize that In
digestion and its kindred troubles must
mar the most perfect beauty. 1
Keep yourself in a habit qf daily
exercise and health. Run in one place.
Jump lightly In one place, do the sim
plest physical exercise, rub furniture,
make beds, romp with your children,
play games and keep your blood, if not
in a boll, at least circulating briskly.
Sweet Drinks and Thirst
Very sweet drinks only increase
your thirst, and sipping at a liquid.
Instead of gulping down large quan
tities of It, assuages thirst bast.
Women Who Go in for Sports
Miss Mabel Furry of Seattle who, out of 218 classmates in the de
partment of Physical Education at the Harvard Summer School, won the
distinction of being the Sandow of the school. Miss Furry is five feet
seven inches tall, weighs i80 pounds, and is all muscle and energy.
"Come out west and you will find loads of girls as strong as I am," she
declared.
Miss Muriel Vanderbilt of New York will have none of the side sad
dle. It is astride for her when she rides horseback, and in regulation
cowboy regalia, too.
Auto skating was an innovation of the passing season on the sands
at Long Beach, Long Island. The fair skater shown above had perfect
control over her machine by means of the handle.
Miss Lyra Brown Nickerson of Providence, R. I., who is to become
the bride of Henry G. Clark of Providence, October 4, is an accomplished
aviatrix. tennis player and swimmer. She recently presented the Rhode
Island National Guard with a fully equipped aeroplane.
Miss Cynthia Wesson of Cotuit, Mass., won the women's double
Columbia round in the Mational Archery tournament in Jersey City not
long ago. She won the championship in this same event at Chicago last
year.
Understand Your Children
By Mary Barnsfather.
THE most difficult problems many
mothers have to confront is to
know 4helr children. It was no
less a man than Tythagoras who
taught man "Know thyself." This im
perative lias been supplemented by
modern educators with the one
"Mother, know thy child." The sooner
this imperative is recognized the bet
ter is the condition for both mother
and child. There are many important
principles to be recognized in the lower
animal kingdom; one of the best of
these is the principle of self help. As
soon as a bird or baby is able to move
about his mother tries him out. mak
ing him fly or walk about and hunt
for his food.
The tragedy that has happened to
Froebel's teaching of Interesting chil
dren, is often carried to a point of
foolist coddling. So many children
are paiwpered and amused these days
that they have no Idea and desire to
help themselves.
m
John Dewey was one of the first of
our great American psychologists to
teach that helping the child means
more than to amuse him he must be
taught to help himself. He teaches
that a child's environment is small
compared to the possibilities that are
dormant within, the bud waiting im
patiently to hurst into flower. Too
much emphasis has been laid on the
child's environment, and as a result
he has been pampered to a point where
he has been crippled physically or
mentally. Likewise Mme. Montessorl
has taught that a young mother hold
ing a tiny life in her grasp has tre
mendous opportunity to develop that
life. Sh invented certain materials
to aid the child to' help itself, and
certainly the results in child develop
ment gained by her method in many
cases are wonderful.
Ellen Key is another of the, great
women scholars who believes It is a
mother's duty to teach the young child
to be self-reliant. As she says, "To
bring up a child is carrying one's soul
duty to help her Infant during, the
formative period to help Itself. By so
doing children learn to make the most
of themselves; they are happier, and
are of real service in the home and
outside.
Children who Wve not been pamp
ered by too many comforts and too
much care learn to do for themselves
under the most trying conditions. The
other day four little tots were found
in the rear of a large tenement in the
Ghetto of Chicago. While the mothers
-wrr-s ON"
were away working during the heat of
the day. the children found themselves
uncomfortable. They dtd not dare go
to tiie lake without getting permission,
so they all filled tin basins with
water, and after utidresslng sat in thej-
water for more than a half hour, look
ing after themselves as their mothers
might have done had they been at
home.
This Incident should be a lesson to
mothers to teach children to bathe
themselves, dress themselves and even
look after their own comforts at times.
Speaking on this point Mrs. Mirlan
Finn Scott, a well known educator,
says: "Even In our own times,
though parents are usually affection
ate enough and Joyously furnish the
infant with an abundance of elaborate
toys, most of them ignore the souls
and minds of their children without
being conscious that they are doing so.
For It Is Just today that we have
really begun to discover that the per
iod lying between birth and 6 or 7
years of age Is the valuable area In
all the territory of a human life. Here
Is a new human continent, hitherto
neglected, still unchartered, but recog
nized as an El Dorado of future hap
piness." There 1s a big difference between
the right use of a child's budding
faculties and forcing a child. The
simplest way to begin is to use the
ordinary activities of a child's life,
such as bathing, dressing , eating,
playing and going to bed. This rou
tine work is never looked upon as a
source of education, but rather a bug
bear to be gotten rid of by doing it
for the child instead of teaching the
little one to help itself. If a child
wears the right sort of clothing he
can be taught to dress and undress
at the age of 2.
At flret he may need your assist
ance, but hy teaching him how to
handle a shirt, to put on his clothes
tnil button them he wilt unrni ornul re
the most difficult processes connect
ed with the dressing and undressing.
If you find this work Is irlfsome at
times you can relieve the monotony
cf buttoning shoes and putting on a
dress or rompers by transforming the
work into a pleasant game. When
once a child acquires the art of dress
ing" and undressing himself he will
be proud of his work, anjl If he Is of
fered assistance he will look upon
it as a bit of interference.
There's many a woman with her
eyes-lifted toward the stars who might
better dlret them toward tha holes
In her stockings.
f
In Business
ITIE are so accustomed to wxmen
feJ in the professions that a sue
" cessfui woman lawyer or physi
cian docs not awaken any real aston
lsiimont. l hero are a number or pro-
iesstons th.it are considered mens
work, and architecture is In this Hum
licr. When a woman architect makes
pnod he is ftill ringed in the number
of the unusual; it means that sht has
unusual ability, perseverance and ex
cclleiit business judgment.
These words best characterlzo Miss
Fay Kcllop of New York city, who
Is recognized as one of New York s
foremost architects. In short, rhe I
ono of the best women archltc ts In
the country. When she Is asked how
she iiaK made good she says: "Pining
my professional career I suppose 1
have been asked 100 times how I nap
pened to choose architecture as a pro
fesbion. 1 reply that I did not choose
tt, but it chose me. You may look
surprised, nut it Is a ract. I was
thrust into tills work, for my desire
was- to be a doctor. It was by acci-
aent mat l met a man in tho urchl-
tectural department of the government
of Washington. He so fired me with
enthnsiasm that I was determlrd to
be an architect right then and ;here.
"I had not gone far in my work be
fore I discovered that this profession
calls for many definite qualities In
this numtier are to be mentioned study,
office work, experience and knowledge.
The last may be divided Into any num
ber of special fiualltles, such as trac
ing, water color work, specification
writing, designing, supervision of the
office, superintendence of the office,
full pize details, knowledge of kinds
of materials and their respective costs.
"riumbing and heating, whlcu ugaln
Is divided Into four kinds, hot wtter,
steam, furnace and fireplaces, and
their proper equipment; electric light,
gus, ventilation and '"Construction of
the building. Construction covers
foundations, whether stone, concrete,
cement or brick. Then the superstruc
ture, whether brick, stone or rrarble
there are any number to choose
from, both lor fitness and cost
"Stucco, how it shall be made and
applied; shingles, their different kinds,
quality and cost; clapboards, widths
and style. Then the structuA Itsc-Jf.
if brick or etone, Is comparatively
easy. In a wooden structuro It Is
somewhat more difficult to know the
proper size, whether to call fo beams
that are 4 by 10 or 2 by 10. ln that
we are governed by the wldtn of the
room or the space to be covered, by
the building department' ruies and
regulations. How to assemble ail this
material an! construct a building that
will hold together and stand inrpec
tion, and meet the approval of the In
spectors ln question, is an Important
problem.
"After you have learned all this the
important ouestlon Is how can I make
good? With all this knowledge ln
your hand, It Is by hard experience
you learn to exchange It for good
position. 'A Job ln an office' at $5 aj
week is one of the first steps in malt
ing good, according to Miss Keliogg's
view of things, for that is what she
earned at her first position. As she
loves to tell: T landed a Job at $5
a week. anU I was glad to have It. 1
stayed with the man a year, and the
knowledge I absorbed ln that office,
the kindness and help the man gave
me, I shall always remember. My
Frenchman is a friend today.' '
MONEY AND MATRIMONY
Often a Fatal Mistake.
Too many mothers fall to realize
that their responsibility in regarding
their daughters Is far greater than that
of their sons because ofthe fact that
girls are, or should be, constantly with
their mothers and are, therefore. Influ
enced altogether by them.
It is a .yery sad thought that too
many mothers have imbibed mercenary
ideas thinking that daughters must
marry for 'wealth instead of affection.
The mother who Influences her daugh
ter into thinking that money is more
to be desired in a husband than high
character, intellectual ability, energy,
; honesty and ambition makes a very
i serious mlslaKe
One cannot actually condemn daugh
ters who would disagree with parents
who have such necessary notlves ln
their plans for securing for them hus
bands, and if they act from pure
motives of affection and willfully dis
obey their parents, they should not be
too severely criticised
The obligation all persons must as
sume who take each other "for better,
tor worse, ana wno are to live to
gether "till death doth them part"
certainly should .entitle them to make
the selection that promises to make
them happiest.
We have Instances ln this count rv
where mothers were very anxious foal
. - l aen t mat l met a man in tho urchl-l
jl enthnsiasm that I was determlrd tol
Simplicity
in Dress Is : :
Best Taste
By Lillian Russell.
(CopKltfht. IP 11. hy l.llliin ButMll.)
V L'NTII, that bright, sunshtnj -
afternoon when some ancient "
philosopher began to consider the'
lilies of the field King Solomon wm
regarded uh the sartorial model of the :
world. Solomon was resplendent In
purple and fine linen, Interspersed with
a Tew assorted brilliant ribbons and
enough rubles and emeralds to add '
weight to his already overburdened
shoulders for old he not have S00
wives?
Suddenly It was discovered that for .
simon-pure loveliness Solomon couldn't
compare with the Illy, which arrayed .
Itself In cool green and the whlta Of
purity, and the discovery n o
passed on down through the centuries
to u.
If Solomon couldn't improve on nis
personal appearance with tne aia oi
a heavy pair of oriental portieres what
ehanre has a poor alrl. without ma
aid of the wisdom which was divinely '
given to the late lamented King of v
Israel?
And It Is Just'ss'true today as It v
was then. The oyertiressea, nuui-.. .,:
heavy -woman Is an abomination thesu ,
days, mainly because the world Is at
taining some degree of sense wlin us r
increasing years and has discovered ,
that to he bnuitlful in the real sense-
of the word one must be simple.
u"here Is no doubt that elaborate
'ineisy does st tract attention to a worn-
an. It does. Ami li somriimes i- ..."
tracts attention that turns Itself Into...
Jeers and gibes. And If there Is One : ;
thine in the world a woman cant
afford to be It Is an object of ridicule , ?
No matter whether one Is plain Or
attractive, simple clothes will enhance.
her charms. - V
Kvery one of us has laughed in de-
rislon (generally secretly, but more ;
often out loud. I am sorry to say) at .
the poor, scrawny creature who drapes w
herself with all the fancy clothes her ,s
own or her husband's purse will al
low. As a rule she merely attracts - .
attention to her own unlovellness and ,(
to her own angles. The same holds
good of stout women, and when they
run to frills and furbelows they are, :;
funnier than anybody else. The
scrawny pernor! may be pitiful, but the
fat one always Is a Joke. .,
ln addition to that fancy wearing
npparel la in bad taste. In the average
woman's life there are mighty few
occasions where an elaborate toilette
Is proper.
None of these occasions occurs when t
she goes downtown to work, and the v
girl who dresses up for her dally
toll certainly can't keep her mind on
her Job.
Business men, n rule, do not car .,
for frilly women. They know for a .
certainty that a woman who is too
dressed up to move can't work prop- -;
erly. ad so they don t want one or .
that' kind around.
Then. Imbued with the Ides of utili
tarianism, they carry the same ideas ;
Into their homes. They realize that ,
a wife who has anything more to do -than
loll Abound can't d" It dressed
up like a French doll. She has to dig--'
card the purple and fine linen to
scrub the floors or to bake a few
biscuits for her famished lord and
master.
Of course. If she has nothing to do -but
loll around she can go In for -clingy,
lacy negligees, but In any other
case It simply Isn't being done, that's -
all.
Consider the other girl the on
who dresses simply hut ln good taste '
and who always looks fresh and coot -and
sweet. She can go through tha
most trying sort of days and emerge '
looking like she had Just Jumped OU
of a bandbox. -
It Is easier to keep clean when you
are dressed simply.
It Is easier to look better and feel
better and act better.
Simple gowns wll show off your
good figure or your attractive proflla
to so much better advantage than das- .
zling gowns which call vociferous at
tention to themselves. Your trim
ankle won't be any trimmer by in- '
casement ln a gorgeous shoe in fact,
It probably will look bulkier and not
nearly so entrancing.
And since it's a poor rule that won't
work both ways once in a while, a
simple gown Is the boon of the unat- .
tractive miss. It doesn't attract un
due attention to Its wearer's lack of '
charms and It does stamp her at a
person of good taste and refinement,
which, after all. Is more Important
than personal beauty.
Clothes may not make the man (or
woman), as an old proverb has It, but
they make all of her but hands and
face during th hours when she Is to
be seen abroad. They'll either make
you or break you, and you'll find that
the simpler they are the better they ;
make you look. No matter how pretty
the girl, if stie Is fussily dressed she
always suffers In comparison beside
the girl who wears simple, appropriate
clothes.
daughters to make marriages for Iro-
aginary positions and great wealth.
Many of these marriages proved most
disastrous and these unfortunate girls
found, too late, that they had neither ,
money nor position, and that there was
nothing before them but a life of un
happiness and discomfort.
If mothers would impress upon their
sons and daughters the gravity Of re
sponsibility in selecting a companion
for life and teach them from their
youth that there were many things
that were of greater Importance and
more to be desired than gold, they
would act far more wisely.
The possession of money alone doss
not bring happiness. On the contrary.
it sometimes brings great sorrow to i
many persons who made desperate ef
forts to obtain It.
It Is very convenient to have money,
but It is not always necessary to one's
happiness If there be a proper appre
ciation of intelligence and true nobil
ity of character and conscientious sense
of moral responsibility.
It is claimed that a few people know (
each other when they enter Into the j
bonds of matrimony, and the probabil
ities are that this Is quite true. It v
sometimes takes a great while to real- , 4
ize this fact and to know what to do ,
to remedy the mistakes which ws make.
If unions are based upon no higher 1
motives than the attaining of riches, -little
can be expected for the future
happiness of the parties to such l ,
union, as adversity Is almost aura .
to come at some time In the lives f
most people, and when fortune has -taken
wings they have nothing to fall
back upon but disappointment and dla:.,
content, they are to be pitied, ,.
Ties a-hould be based upon somstning , .
more enduring than pleading fortune.'
t tv-V
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