THE OREGON " SUNDAY JOURNAL, PORTLAND,, SUNDAY T.IORNING, FEBRUARY CO. ,1910.
J
Individuality' Still t toe ECey
'note Towards Wliichtlhie
: - Gown -Maker ' . Bends; His
; ;V- Every ! -Ef f prtWHaitsNew
in Millinery
By Afme.
.Copyright. 1916,
I may - have - the Impertinence to
JL jook intovthe future, why may
" not. ona have the courage to listen?
one hears something like uui:
. -But the price? It la outrageous,'
-exclaims-the lady.
-But the fabric dear madam. It la
...r tba abundance. says the couturier.
., "But what's - the tdea or .using
rObes7; exclaims tba lady.
"Alas, dear madam. It ia tba fash-
- jionl And' fabrics coat moaeyi Tba
s material 1 f it for tba ' robes of an
- em Dress."-
--v. "Yea,' agrees tba lady, "but father
.. .doesn't own an empire. Can't you
, make It look ilka a lot when it isn'tr'
"Alas, your ask tba impossible.
' This will lead you to surmise that
tha soring frock la to be an expense.
.Hat w laugnt - Ton ahould sea them.
aome of the treasures that are .betas
anaken from tne tissues ana urtea
: tenderly, as If they were things break-
that bear tba celestial marks of Pari 3.
; They are not only one akirt but many.
layer upon layer,, and. trimmea rouna
. and round with much magnificence
- bands, tucks, shlrrtngs, ruche ttes, ruf-
flea, - tabliers, panniers, embroidery!
. Truly we are 0 wear "some" clothes,
- and mora even tban-that.
Economy? Mark the word out cf
the dictionary; human folk have no
earthly nse -for It. Let ui hope that
v our delicate frames shall be equal to
- the sartorial burdens, and pur purses
able to stand the strain.
And yet, despair not.
Individuality Is still the keynote.
The town' '; makers : consider our bad
points and endeavor to bide them.
They , seek out the good and exploit
. them. Also the new styles are very
beautiful.
The special feature is the wide, wide
y skirt. ..They are wrangling about it
a bit In Paris, but the greater num
ber of the-sartorial authorities are
- - t . n. 1. . . . . -. m . ..
change, and the narrow skirt was done
to death. There la nothing to do but
expand, and the wider the skirt the
smaller the waist will appear.
Vollat tt ,1s a safe guess, my chil
dren. The full skirt and the fuasy
little pointed bodice have great pos-
s siblllties. Add also the bell sleeve and
there you are right out or uode's
V Lady Book 20 years before the civil
war. ,
i All of which means that hips are m
' again or out, as you may prefer to
1 express the Idea. If you hear of the
"farthingale" and think it's aome kind
j of a bird - take . a second thought. - It
4 Is the distended, hip .line, made pos
sible by the use of wired hoops or
bands of light featherbone. ,
Styles will be a strange melting to
gether of Breton and Spanish modes,
early Victorian and Russian. Sounds
impossible, but It Isn't. The Impossi
ble is often quite true. '
. The irt will be longer. It baa to
'be. If it IS short and yet fuller a
- perfect - lady will show her garters,
and that is not really au fait. - The
t abort akirt baa been -frightfully cheap
ened. It has been overdone, and wa
are tired of hosiery displays, no mat-
ier now nice these casings may be.
f. The new skirt extends to the ank'e,
and In aome models It actually covers
i the shoes. These latter are, of course,
only for elaborate dinner gowns: , -;.-
Many women -"Will rebel and will
i: fall to nursing and cuddling tba Idea
; that every Inch added to the length
'.of one's royal toga means 10 years
1 added to ona'a age. But tbat'a a
4 falsa notion. Tba long, full skirts will
m. 1 . - n-i-;:-. - - -.- -. i1'-
IyQ::-.l::.X:.- Q O O ' 0i
I r. . Y"
S , .... - . - - . ' - f ' - a - -
r;.;. ;.::v, . , . :.t: j- . - r , : i:S .: . : .
i & l 1 s " . - - U . - i ' i' - ' - ' . ' - - s- - . ,. ' . . - ; . - -...-
J - r. - ' - a, r- - v " 1 ' j "1 , t . .
' ' !r v. t (.' - , - . . -, .-i. " - , , " t , - ,
r - '.'.---- - -: :y - - ' ;'y - - ,
and Shoes: r ;;
Qui Vive,
by J. Keeley,
be quaint, and after all a woman's
in it Is writ in-" the- family
Bible. No mere skirt length Is golnti
to make very - much difference. - in
face the extremely abort frock accen
tuates tba aae marks of a woman who
Is In the prime of life to 1 put . It
klndlv and Bolicitoualv - -
The central figure in the .sketch
today is -4d excellent example of tba
Victorian mode, and 'one against" which
Ruskln would rave, as wa recall 1 nis
displeasure at the use of garianas in
any i decorat,lv effect," arguing that
garlands were made to wear. - upon
beads and that one might as well de
sign a " hat peg, with a bat banging
upon. It, as a. garland, which always
suggested' flowers - that .had withered.
Buskin, . however,, did not dealgn
clothes, nor . old he criticise ne an
of sartorial sgentases exeept, to a de
sultory wayf Certain it If be woul-1
be most unhappy now that weird Bakst
designs are: appearing on nats ana
gowns In the most ' amazing and
Irrational manner. Ruskln -was strong
for beautiful dress, but pleaded always
for the appropriate robe and the fit
ting garment.
The garlands we mention are made
of tissue roses with leaves of gold
cloth. ; They appear at regular in
tervals five or six inches above the
hem of - the : skirt, which measures a
good seven yards, and even then has
an overdrapery, " cascaded on either
side, and "pouring into ample and
voluminous folds at the back.
The ' pointed bodice, with draped
surplice, suggestive of 1830, is sleeve
less, and the shoulder straps are bands
of roses with their glittering leaves of
gold cloth. Another garland of flow
ers forms a clasp or buckle to se
cure the corsage drapery.
Tbe figure on the right gives an ex
cellent Idea of the general mode of
the spring frock, which la most decid
edly of the Jenny order. Jenny, the
youthful, the spirited, the artist of
simple lines, has exploited the very
wideskirt with bands or tucks going
round and round "forever and aye."
The mode Is extremely taking, be
cause it is simple. ' You will observe
also that the day of the skirt with
flat panels, back and front and full
ness at the side is past. "
: The new skirt. Is of many gathers.
There Is no effort now to diguiae
tbe fact that all the goods in the bolt
was used when tbe costume was
executed.
The material of thia delightful
model frock Is white crepe, with ban-Is
of Cheruit satin in citron color. Tha
bands are of . varying widths. . The
narrower as they ascend tbe breadths
of the skirt.' At the waistline, which
is rather high and lifted, there is
the tiniest little peplum frill. Tbe
underblouse is of the white Georgette?
and the Jacket effect, buttoning over,
vest fashion. Is of citron- lor ed satin.
The collar is suggestive of a sore
throat bandage with a circular frill
at the top, but thus is the mode of
the moment, " my children. On the
slim "heck it is the charming thing.
On the ad i posed one It Is the im
possible. But one knows oneself con
cerning these trifles of the wardrobe.
Give special heed In this model to
the fall puffs of the sleeves that en
velop the forearm. They also have
decorative bands. A tiny beau's bow
of black velvet ribbon forms a neck
trim. ..'
Silver lace of modernized Bruges
design ' borders and nlne-yards-around
skirt of the first figure. The fabric
of the gown is metallzed brocade with
a foundation of French blue, tbe brocad
being practically invisible except as
Design for a
v vv n n 1 v
SKflRTS KfJI3iME;:YARDS AROOHDCQUHT 'EM
the light shines suddenly on the ma
terial. A. charming effect Is produced
by the aide jabots of the 'skirt, which
are weighted with silver tassels.
The bodice is one of those pretty
excuses for a covering a mere band
of fabric, a bit of laca at the ton,
pailetted 'shoulder straps, and a fold
at the waistline which serves as a
diminutive ceinture. The gown.
though very short, has a panel train.
By the way. Callot attaches a fabric
tail to every evening gown she makes,
Sometimes it appears on one aide,
sometimes on both, occasionally at
the back, where It rightly belongs. Cal
lot especially is clinging to the long,
Grecian draperies, but Jenny's youth
ful models aVe winning the day and
tbe hour. They can't be beaten.
Lanvin, too, is youthful. And Xanvln
also is popular. '
- e . e i
As a lastly, let there be a word or
two about hats. Millinery Is tH"g
on the shape and form of the chim
ney pots of Paris, t.nich are always
a striking sight to the newly arrived
tourist. - Hat crowns are high, bijrher
and highest. They soar and lift, ex
tend themselves, and then produce a
garden full of flowers that tower still
above the rest. The new turban Is a
thing of great beauty. , ; ,
with high hate and longer skirts
tha figure of the .-feminine form is
changing most decidedly. - Wo are no
longer of the squatty kind, but be
long to the 'long, tall folk. ' High
heels are lifting us, too,, and heels
are as hlgn as tbe cost of living.
There - Is much that the season Is
bringing- forth that Is of interest. It
is all coming in slowly,: mainly be
cause the great ' couturleres of ' Paris
have been unusually buajrvtrying to
f ihd some means of restricting the
distribution of their models. They
would sell to certain exclusive Ameri
can shops and dressmakers. But
where shall the line be drawn? That's
something to think about. . They've
Work, Bagf
Xine yards of sliver lace of modernised Bruges design borders the
skirt of this robe of metallzed brocade; jabots at either tide are ;
weighted with silver tassels; early Victorian frock V, in., white ;
. ninon with garlands of. faded pink tissue roses and gold leaves.
The tablier is draped in cascades at the sides and falls in heavy
folds at the back; decidedly of the spring and youth and Jenny
. ; is this froclt of white Georgette crepe, with bands, of citron coU j
ored Chernit satin. Note" the sleeves that are very wide from the -
elbow to wrist.
had much of a powwow, and soma of
the great houses have dropped out.
After all, if tbe world has something
beautiful to give., why sbouldnot all
enjoy ltT . : . .5( t"
It Is considerable comfort' to the
clever little homo body- to strut about
in her newest toga and say superbly:
"X made It after a Polret model." Of
course, ' It Is not the model, ' or. any
thing Ilka it, but what matters that
to her? She feels that she Is dose
to great things, somehow, and that la
a very pleasant "feel.'
And it is a very- fine thing to be
happy.. - ,
Concerning the fabrics of the com
lng season, little Is settled. Tb .t
voiles of all kinds, and charaoter will
be jrood is a fairly safe guess-, Faille,
taffetas and pucsy .willows . are all
used on early spring models. Ribbons
are bound to be popular, and every
body loves the youthful effect of flut
tering? ends and bows. Jenny, and
Lanvin have both exploited beautiful
ribbons as trims.
Elaborately decorated skirts are an
other sure guess, especiallly for even
ing wear, Extremely, full skirts per
mlt the most lavish application of
ruffles, tucks, puffings, nana en
broidery, motifs, etc " '
One unusual model, thought ex
tremely wide, has up and down shir-
rlngs and insertions, a mo Oe .thai
comes to us from the period Just pre
ceding our Civil war, and which Is a
dellgiitf ul. one for the combination of
Persian embroidery and moussellne de
sole. - - . -
SLoes continue to grow more ornate
.3 . . 1 . . . . . . AWl
b.uu siitenaui, :nougn last kuiuuiu iu,
shoemakers Insisted that only black.
conservative boots should be tha
proper cut-up. Colored kids are worn
and come In buttoned boots or laced.
according to one's perfectly Individual
istic - notion. - White stitching Is
taboo, because it has been dona to
death on cheap shoes. ,
WORK BAG
THIS bag of attractive ahapa
could be worked in many dif
ferent ways. ' It could be an. white
or worked In old blue or . old rose
on white linen, or worked. In white
on linen of any pale color. For a
servSceable bag' It could be made of
tan linen - and.- worked In golden
brown. A "dark green linen em
broidered in pale shades of green
would give a pretty effect. Tbe
center design - should be heavily
padded lengthwise . of - each petal
and the embroidery , stitch worked
In the opposite direction. If de
sired each petal may be outlined in
a darker shade than' that used for
the embroidery., .Black Is nearly
always effective when used to out
line a paler color. The eyelets at
the' top should ba worked firmly In
buttonhole stitch' and a v narrow
cord i or ribbon run through. A
pretty effect would be obtained' by
lining, the bag "with material tho
color of that . used ia tha embroi
dery. -Tne bag- is to "be cut -but
on, tha dotted line. -. ; ; . .
HOW Tp TRANSFE BDESIGN
If - very- sheer r material - Is used
It may be laid over tha pattern and
the design- traced through' In pen
cIL , Or-i the dejn may be easily
transferred- by placing a piece . of
carbon paper . on - the u ; material,
shiny side down, and the design on
top of. tbe--- carbon, r In tracing tha
pattern with t the use of - carbon
papep-. use a very, sharp pencil or a
new orange wood stick. -, a - 1. -Perhapsu-the
. beat plan in trans
ferring a design fs to pin the sheet
of paper and the material . together
and bold them up against ' af win
dow pane when tracing : tbe design'
The outlines wlU then be perfectly
deaf. ,Y:r'-;-YJ"Y C---. x.---:
" Another; method is, te place a
bar of soap In a pint' of hot water,
until ' the ; water becomes soapy.
Remove the soap, saturate the de
sign with the mixtures' and partial
ly dry. .1, Place whatever material
you intend to nse on a flat, hard
.surface and place the design upon
IV faca downward. - Place over . It
two folds of newspapers and rnb
hard with a tablespoon over the
pattern until it - Is entirely . tran
f erred. - t :.
She Wis a Voter.
. Visiting New. Tork friends Is an Ore
gon girl, young and sweet and pretty.
One evening aha was oat with a party
of -older people than herself, and, aft
er . tbe theater, some - one suggested
that they go to a rather lively restau
rant and dance awblle. - Tba others
objected on the ground that It might
not be the proper place for a young
and unsophisticated girl like Miss
Blank. x ' .-' "' v,:":--.
"Oh," she said, -with quite an air,
"you needn't bother about my youth
or my unsophlstication. I am St years
of age, and I voted at the November
election." - -' .'
No other woman in the party bad a
record like that; and the Oregon girl
was taken along without further ques
tion. ... ; ; -. -r' -- . -.
, Two ideas. ;
Tm going to ask her to be queen of
my home," said the enamored youth.
Tes." replied the cynic, "and shall
accept with tbe idea that the noma is
to be an absolute monarchy."
Mst Old Room
; - - -.
By Madam MaUoru
My old house seems so hopeless; to
even "begin to make it look modern Is
almost imposalbla. . This was- tbe re
mark made by a middle-aged spinster
who longed to have her home "look
right," but she did not know just hew
to go about it. -'J..- ;. i. '
For years she had let the family
photographs and biic-a-brao accumu
late (bow our ancestors loved to col
lect ' the often motley assortment of
useless things), and she had never
dared to banish any of these house
bold treasures (I dare not call them
Junk.)
One day . a dearly . beloved niece,
home from a period spent In studying
Interior decorating; in New Tork,
begged to be allowed to do over the
"parlor," which she said was called a
living room, promising to put every
thing that she wished to discard away
carefully in the attic and not to de
stroy one thing. .
a
All she asked was that "Auntie" go
away for . two weeks and leave this
one room to her. . Fortunately, the
house had been wired for electricity,
but no new fixtures had been put in,
so loxenge-ahaped shields in dull brass
with candle lights were, placed either
aide of the mantel. They bad old rose
shades. The mantel . sbelf had bean
swept clean of every article except
fine old mahogany clock which seemed
to belong there, i - t?r: :.:-,.
.The woodwork was done t In ' ivory
enameled paint rubbed to an egg-sheU
Old-Faskibnecl "Parlor" Gkangecl'Into
: ' g l '
'r v-7 ; ' ,. - .. ..- . .
Skirf.Ye Ss skerc AS tor E or. -
- Oft Up Your; Voices,
?i; Sweetly:. Day by Day
V.Gain in; Health .and F
. By Lillian RauelL
OepyrlfBt, si, by XJUiaa Basse!!,
Kit
0
i
H
AVE- you,.' ever . noticed v the ex
pression of the mouth, and posi
tion of tba throat of a natural
singer?' '
' If you haven't, do so at onca, Cb
serva .a small child while It Is un
consciously 'singing its simple Mother
Goose songs and you will sea a per
fectly placed mouth and perfectly
poised throat.
rou will ask "WhyT" The simple
reason is because all of tha. facial
muscles are relaxed and allowed to
remain normal, a condition that la
rare among people' of any . age, child
or muux . .
People . unconsciously distort , their
features. : They acquire habits of fa
cial expression that fairly belle their
nature. You may see a sweet . na
tured little woman assuming the ex
pression of a crabbed shrew. Ton may
see a mild hearted one looking Ilka an
enraged animal. - Aad 'you may see
the worst - tempered woman In tha
world looking' Ilka an angel, r-
But there Is no expression which
Illuminates ths laca of a woman so
perfectly ss that which she assumes
While singing. I was forcibly struck
with that fact but a few days . ago
while listening- to ; the singing of a
ladles choral society. There were at
least 0 charming women singing to
gether. The mucio was naturally of
tha refined order, choruses harmonised
and arranged from high claas songs,
and beautifully sung, .r wass not lis
tening to the music so much as X was
observing- tha beauty of tha women
who sang. - . U -
There were all kinds and types or
women, brunettes, blondes, Titian
haired - and white-haired, among , the
group, and while singing each and
very one of . them looked lovely.
Becomes New
finish ' and the walls ware repapered
in a light gray silk, fiber material
which wears well and does hoc fade;
tha ru was a good one In rose, tans
and a bit Of brown, so was left. : .,
: An old sofa with really ; fine Unas
was reupholatered An - rose and tan
damask, with foot cushions and pillows-to
match.. It was placed at the
aide of the fireplace with a chair and
footstool opposite. This made a coxy
corner moat attractive. . -
The French door and - long win
dows had very sheer net curtains with
straight overdraperlea of rose and fan
figured linen and gave lust the right
coloring needed with ; the: light gray
walls.- which made such a - tine back
ground tor th : old. family portraits
framed in gold. - .- . ;
- When fresh : flowers were Arranged
In brass and copper receptacles, with
a couple of ferns and a palm in the
huge Jardiniere . that came . from the
world's' fair, the room certainly- pre
sented a most dignified yet homelike
appearance. And let me - whisper It,
"Auntie" never once - asked t for , tbe
banished' photographs, for tbe busts of
Dickens and Beethoven, for the "yard
of pansies" that had hung over, tbe
mantel or for numerous paper weights,
vases, plaques aad metal and onyx
tables.- etc., with which tbe room- had
been burdened. "Fifty-seven varieties"
weren't in it with that collection of
years, said the pretty niece in tailing
me about It. And the best of It all.
she says I can do or undo the dining
room next . but . that is another story. ,
Love of muslo In itself adda hnr
of expression to any face u:i
sclously. - s
The action of singing Is vr---"
If the songs are worthy. Ttrr:
much so-called singinj that is 1
Jectlonable as tbe "cat on ts i
fence," and there Is a class of f
today that tbe public tolerates v
should be relegated to cheap c
which are not patronised by t
people.
Unless there Is real poetry In
words of a song the music Is r
lngless. It Is the sentiment l i
lyrio which Inspires the music, '
Is a Hit- and rhythm in an in
mental selection, but It is all t
Section.
, A march suggests the patriotic 1
to arise in 'one's throat and teat,
spring In one's eyes. It Is cot
music so much as what the r
suggests soldiers, wars and lost i
Tha sweet strains of a waits I
vivid ' picturea to the mind cf t
loving partner whose whispered '
have perpetuated the plrasure of C
ing. -
- ..'
The pleasure of singing is In j
lng out in harmonious tones the
pression of aome aweet words v
have i been a poetic Inspiration. 1
Is the reason, why the singer's :
Is illuminated, her voice takf i
sweetness and ahe gives pleas ur
tbe moat upliftin- kind. She
help being beautiful, for her r.-.'
absorbed in the meaning of tbe v.
she is singing.,
I advocate ainging as part of a f
education and a moat Important ;
There Is an education in the t
and-their interpretation: there !
tertalnment and pleasure in lieu
to a sweet voice, and there is 1
beauty to be expressed In tbe :
singing.
Singing is exercise. In the '
place it requires deep and hen'
breathing. The millions ef v:
tions from the low tones to the 1
tones clear the ' throat and,no3
all catarrhal affections and a t
same time, give great strength ti
throat muscles and bronchial t
longs and back muscles. Co:
singing is conducive to perfect tt
- ' . '. : ' :
Why should a club of !
women not be healthy and beau.
No small wonder that they are
more pleasing to look upon tban t
less fortunate sisters.
Cultivate your children In e!r
let them lift op their voices In
one praise. Do not deny then
privilege. The mother who for
her children to alng has no mu
her soul and no beauty In her hear-
Music is essential all through .
from the cradle to the grave.
More Than a Hint.
' Ha was a very aby young man.
two long years be bad been pajir. 7
attention and had not yt t
squeezed her hand.
One evening, as they lingered in
shadow of the trees by her gate,
asked timidly:
"Florence would 'you might I-
would you mind if I placed one'T
erent kiss en your fair hand tor'
when I leave you?" '
. Florence thought he wanted ;
lng up. So she dropped her bead c
on his shoulders, lifted her J
temptingly to bis and replied:
"Well. Georgia, I should thUCt
decidedly out of placa".
"Living Room
' . -- - - - . .. . . , - .. . , ; - . . . . - - - .
A