G THE OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL, PORTLAND, SUNDAY MORNING, SEPTEMBER , 5, 1915. AUTUMN AND tuiuir V 1JER STYLES FOR MEN ARE DISCUSSED BY EXPERT Clothes for Men Are Made - Joday to Fit Figure; Un- natural Fffent Avoided. TROUSERS FIT CLOSER Kngftlaa Include Xat, BMrt, Collar, (Hove, Etc.; Klnta on sack t ". or &oiuf Coat. r Bjr iWfla Brammel Jr. If It be true that masculine mode. are becoming a more Important factor it aoclety. It In only whju one might expect; yet there must be causes that are Juat well If traced. How much taia quickening- of nartorial appetit may be doe to the general leveling up of taste and culture In which all de partment of drees taka more or less - i, 11 in uriLicuic iu may. . Wa know men are becoming more careful of thetr appearitnce not young matt nfy--but Kenerally npeaklDg, most Ma, Thta carefulness In on outcome Of higher civilisation. But there are other - cauaea. Public preaa haa done much to bring fnia about. Newspapers as well aa aoclety Journal give an occasional' column on the uubject of men's dress, and I certainly believe men of reflne nient and good taste read and etudy aucb articles. Made to rit the rig-are. - The overdressed man or "fop" Is never comfortable and lacks always the repose of a man well attired. It Is not necessary for the man who gives the HUbJect of dress a little thought, to overdress. . ' Clothes for men today are natural looking clothes, made to fit one's fig ure. They no longer have the unnatural effect of the styles of a few years ago. If one's clothes are fikillfully cut from modest-looking materials and good style, the wearfir may feel se renely sure of himself, for Just at present extreme things In men's dress are really out of Btyle. The man "Who Knows" wants con servative clothes, but good clothes. This autumn, HtJo- from solid col ors, checks, stripes and basket weuves Will predominate. Glen Urquhart checks and small, quiet stripes will be used as well as hair-line and pon-ell-wldth stripes. Harmonious color combinations In gien, browns and greenn will be In vogue with smart dreosers. Iilue iserge remains as sta ple as heretofore. The supply of nov elty suitings Is limited. Urowns and greens are refined in tone. Mater ials of a smoother finish -what the manufacturer terms "an unfinished worsted" will be most popular this euson. This cloth lias two distinct advantages over other materials. It has sufficient nap to protect It from taking nn early gloss, but not an over quantity of nap to vear off and look bare. Xiounge 'Coats Longer Than Before. Lounge couts may be fastened with two, three or lour buttons and slightly drawn In at the wulst and are a bit longer than heretofore. The lapel either peaked or notched, are narrower than they were last season and moderately long; shoulders -are natural, with no padding; sleeves are rather narrow, in tact,, the generul effect is toward the Ideal coat. i ne single ureas leu acn or iuuhkc coat will he the popular one, although the double breasted garment may be worn If preferred. Necessary accessories are: 'Ifat, derby or soft; shirt, pleated or negli gee; collar, fold or wing; tie. four-in-hand or bow; gloves, cape, flesher or chamois; boots, lace, calf or rusfet, high or low; overcoat, Chesterfield.. The morning or cutaway coat will be a favorite this season, particularly among the young men. It will be made wlih one or two buttons, short walsted, but not too tight, braided or plain, in good length, soft lines and width of shoulders and sleeves moder ately narrow. Necessary accessories: Hat, black derby or high silk: shirt, pleated white or fancy; collar, fold or wing; tie, lour-lii-hand ; gloves, suede or reindeer; boots, patent leather or dAill calf buttoned kid tops; spats, overcoat, Chesterfield. Frock Coata In Vogue. Frock coats for middle aged men are more in vogue now than at any time during the past 20 years. Accessories the same as worn with morning coat. Fancy waistcoats will be quit e pop . ular, particularly the knitted kind and checked flannel. Trousers will be closer fitting and straight hanging, and usually finished with a small cuff, except dress and eml-dresa trouserB. Sporting garments are necessary. A wan should dress for the particular sport he may have on hand in a way that will best insure' him the greatest amount of comfort and be most ap propriate for the occasion. Conse- PORTLAND DRUGGIST HIGHLY ESTEEMED -I i ' " M u , f,' i I f f ' - . Frank Xau. Frank Nau, who passed away at his home in this city on August 30, was born in New York in 1863 of German parents. There were throe boys in the family left motherless when Frank Nau was a small child. Thomas E. Nau of Seattle, is the only brother left, J. W. Nau of Milwaukee, Wis., dying several years ago. In 1 b 7 Frank Nan left New York city, came to San Francisco via Ue Panama route. He short after came to Portland and worked for Woodard & Clarke, but soon started his irug store in th then un finished Portland hotel building, where he cdnducted it for many years. It was the first drug store in Portland to remain open all the time, night and day. For over a quarter of a century the store has never closed until the day of the funerai of Its proprietor last Thursday. Mr. Nau tnarried Miss Louise Burg ess of Zanesville, Ohio, in 1897 and left with her two children, Frank, aged 17, and Ilermlne, aged 10. The family residence is at 2'A& North Twenty fourth street. Mr. Nau was a member of Portland lodge, No. 57, A. F. and A. M. Funeral services weue conducted by Rev. A. A. Morrison of Trinty church, at the Holman parlors, and the Maronlo rites given at the crema torium. Frank Nau had a strong faith In Portland and a wide circle of friends among the business and professional men of this city. CARL LIST, PORTLAND BOY, GIVES STIRRING STORY OF DIVER U-39 Taken O'ff Doomed Ship, He Spends Week Aboard Ger man Submersible. tarpaulins and Invisible at a dlatanca, i tha worst of tt was that you could not but there was no lack of nerve In go- sleep things happened. Ton dropped lng after anything. Von Weddigen, it j as dead on the deck and some one was told, met his death chasing an , stepped, on your insidesas the gong sent armed British steamer. Commanding i all hands to their stations, even two the U-20, he went after a whale of a i or three times s, night. No one took off British freighter In the Irish sea, slg-'hia clothes, except maybe to change nailed her to stop. She stopped' but them. No ona washed. hoisted the Spanish flag. As he came ! Merer BemoTe Clothing. alongside the steamer let drive with All hands, officers as well, turned in her two four-point sevens at the sub- ; a thev wer 1uat kickinir 'off their marine, sinking it Immediately. (boots before stretchina- out on their Often we would be in plain sight j bunks. The oilers and the machinists of the Irish coast, all hands loafing never took off their leather suits all around the forepart of the conning : BimDiy a mass of crease. Worn to tower, smoking, telling yarns and wait- 6hreds from constant watch-keepins lng for something to turn up. Afraid I Il0 one thought about looks. No won of the trawlers? we were not. You : der they called us the "Barbarians" see we could see them on the horizon jn Heligoland. before they spot us, nor would we sub- Myself, I never had my things off. merge until they got in range witn Had two clean-ups. Water was scarce NIGHTS UNDER THE SEA After Chasing- Ships and Being- Hunted Submarine Bests on Channel Bottom. (Continued From Page One) quently he has never appeared to such advantage as he does today. Neces sary accessories: Cap or soft hat; shirt, negligee with soft cuffs; collar, fold, outing or self-attached; tie, four-in-hand or stock; gloves, cape, flesher or chamois; boots, lace calf or russet, high or low; raglan slip-on. Shapely Overcoats the Tiling. While single and double-breasted Chesterfield overcoats will undoubted ly retain their popularity, the shapejy coat for dress is considered the most exclusive for this season. Evening dress calls for the utmost care, and a disregard for correctness Is not a characteristic to boast of. There is and should be but one stand ard in formal evening dress, and that a plain, unostentatious correct cos tume. The material for the coat and trousers must -be the same. Waistcoat single-breasted, of white wash or silk material,.- although black silk Is still worn to some extent. Braid on tha trousers is considered good form. Necessary accessories are: Hat. high silk with broad felt band; shirt, stiff white pique; collar, wing, poke or lapfront; tie, white of plain or fig ured pique; gloves, white kid or white antelope; boots, patent leather, but toned cloth tops; patent leather pumps for dancing; Jewelry, pearl links and studs; Inverness, a skirted overcoat or coverall. The two-button, peaked lapel tuxedo. or dinner Jacket, is made from black or dark grey unfinished worsteds, with trousers to match, and single-breasted silk waistcoat, black, pearl or grey. It Is proper for all informal wear, or In other words, when ladies are not pres ent in formal evening attire. Hat. derby or soft; shirt, stiff or pleated pique; collar, fold or wing; tie, black or black and white; gloves, grey ante lope or chamois; boots, dull calf, lace tops, or gunmetal pumps. LIVES FOR 106 YEARS New York, Sept. 4. (I. N. S.) Mrs. .leanette Schwartz, 106 years old. height 30 inches, weight 25 pounds, was dead today at the Brooklyn He brew home for the aged. Mrs. Schwartz celebrated her 106th birth day May 20 at which time she executed a few dance steps as a demonstration to her friends of her good health and agility. It's a far cry from John Lind and William Bayard Hale to General Scott. Stacy-Adams Shoes for Men "Good Sense SHOES" Sixes From 4 to 14 WIDTHS AAA, AA, A, B, C. D, E, F, G, H, I Knight Shoe Co, MORRISON STREET NEAR BROADWAY these compartments with the middle one and you have the brains of the U-39, the controlling room. It was next to the mess room where I snatched my sleep. Conning Tower Nerre Center. For days I stared at Its dials and gear trying to make out each part and how it worked. The conning tower was Its "nerve center. From here the commander, Captain-Lieutenant Foer ster, handled the ship above water as vell as under sea. On the surface his station was at the conning tower hatch, a big man, youthful, but with a worn face, dressed In a well sprayed old uniform over a white sweater, smoking a cigarette or snatching a fried egg for a "mug-up." "Was liegt an" (What course?) he'd shout to the wheelsman below, sleeting by the anchutz gyro compass before him and peering over the sea through the apertures through the conning tower armor. When we were on the surface two lookouts and the officer of the deck stood watch out side. Running below the sea In chase, the captain would keep his eyes glued continuously to the eyepiece of the conning tower periscope, turning it right and left searching for a victim. The skipper's orders were relayed by a messenger acting as "central" and communicating through speaking tubes. There was no telephone. Periscope Give a Clear View. "Per Herr marine ingeniur" (the chief engineer), an excitable person, manned the periscope In the controller room. The periscope showed every thing plainly. Just like in an opera glass, and you saw the ocean flat be fore you, but divided by a vertical hair line and a shadow of the wire stay which protected the periscope from drag lines. The engineer submerged the Bhip and brought it to the sur face at the captain's orders. Behind him two men operated the wheels con trolling the horizontal rudders In the bow of the submarine. And their eyes were peeled on the diving gauge which registered the depth at which the U-39 was running. The dynamo for the gyro, a nest of speaking tubes and the valves of trim ming tanks lined the bulkheads of the compartment. My first morning someone pushes a foot In my face. I woke up then lots of action. Under. Water All Night. "Taufstation" stand by to dive. A gong rings. The men roll out of their bunks. If you are in the way you get hurt as I did sleeping on the floor. The U-39 is awake b-ut in silence. The officers and men reach their stations. The submarine is motionless. It has lain all night on the bottom of the Hnglish channel. I can hear nothing but the shrill command to trim the tanks from the engineer grabbing the handles of the periscope and quickly turning it around. With increased buoyancy, th,e U-39 rises but slowly until finally the per iscopes Just tip the surface. The en gineer takes another look and his ob servations are checked by the captain through the conning tower's scope. No British patrol boats nor sneaking de stroyers are around. The coast is clear. "Aud blasen." empty tanks, cried the engineer and free of its water ballast the submarine leaps to the surface. The Chase Is On. "Beide, vollerfaTt voraus," both en gines full speed aheadand this order from the conning tower throws the U-39 through the sea at top spead in ehase of a smoke cloud on the horizon just visible in the periscope. We all get on deck dirty, grimv and unwashed but taking grandstand seats. The U-39 makes a neat curve end off we go at a mad rate after the ileeing steamer. There is no escape. ivreigs lanne auf." Up with, the colors, help to bring it up. The B-8 centimeter gun is cast loose. The gun ner's mate unscrews the watertight tompion, clamps on the telescope sight and works the breech for a try. And No. 3 breaks out the ammunition from a hatch in the deck, the cartridges come up in water tight containers, wrenched open with a beer opener-like handle. The gun crew hook themselves with lines fastened in their belts to the rail, like firemen to a ladder. Oadaby Is Sunk. "Los." The flist solid shot crashes through the air and makes a white slash ahead of the steamer. She slows down, stops, but does not show her nationality. What is she? Brijtish or neutral? At full speed the distance diminishes and with his glasses the lookout makes out her name Gadsby. We semaphore her to get ready her boats, to get her people In them. There can be no lin gering. A destroyer might surprise us. An aeroplane pot us. Her lifeboats drop in the water and pull away through the megaphone we give them the course to the nearest land. The gun speaks again, a string of whizzing shells. A gaping hole in the Gadsby's I side, another smash at the water line, 'sinking she rolls over and the loose stuff rattles down her decks. The air bursts through her hatches like a bomb and she vanishes into the deep under a cloud of smoke. I hear no gleeful shouts of hate, no Gott strafe England" simply "Wle- der, welder, en weg." Another out of the way. I give a hand in taking down the empty cartridge shells. The sub marine destroys everything of the en emy's but saves everything of its own. Torpedoes for Convoyed Ships. Whether convoyed or not, we would chase any ship and sink 'em as they came alon; just in a day's work. If there was a convoy we would stay be low and pass them out a torpedo. For heavy work sinking battleships or big liners we had big torpedoes, but for llesser fry, little ones, less expensive ana wltn a smaller war head. But we had none to waste. The supply was only eight torpedoes in all. two for each tube. But most of the work was on the surface with the gun, and of neutral ships we sank "only those bound for the allies with contraband. ' But we held everything up for examination and let one Creek, a Hollander and a Spaniard steam on, having no contra band. Many of the British freighters car ried quick firing guns concealed under their Erbsenwerfers, bean shooters, and they could make us out. We left them alone, there were too many and none worth a torpedo or the bother of wasting shells. But we were scared of the destroyers. Trawlers Near Sink Ship. Fast and thick they came. W e had ! stopped an English steamer, and in spite of trawlers coming up to the res-cue we manage to put a few holes j in her side, sinking her and submerged before they came into range. Some times we got left. Some times, a big fine sailing ship rose on the horizon and we started after her. But the pa trol boat got there first, an hour's chase for nothing, and we ducked. "Die verdammte trawler" we ought to sink her, said the men. She was left In peace. Torpedo Misses Xdner. Convoyed by four British destroyers, a huge passenger ship escaped. We sighted her July 3, 6 a. m , submerged, cutting her course and stood by to fire a torpedo. With convoys she was en titled to no warning. But the tor pedo missed, our last. The convoys did not spot us and we dropped below undetected. No one on that steamer knew of their narrow escape. I heard our captain say that he was glad that he missed the ship for the sake of the passengers; hated to think of the dead and the poor devils swimming about In the water. Sighted two steamers, gave them each warning to heave to, knew they were British because they tried to get away, In fact no English ship stopped voluntarily upon warning nor ever hoisted her ensign because they would hide identity. Caucasian, which we sunk July 3 had her name scratched off. Bag-g-ed Five In a Day. Both beat off in different directions. We stood on a course for the nearest fellow and sent him a dose, enough to stop headway. Meanwhile we chased the second, firing while under way. He stoppei and the crew took to the boats. The gun finished her, bow f'rst. We went back after num ber one, now waterlogged, and put a few more holes, so that she would sink faster. The passengers were already off. This was our busy day bagged five were trying for the record like every U-boat. No two ships sunk in the same way. And when you get used to it Is an interesting sight and gets less gruesome. Some sink in five min- j utes, others take hours the air inside the hull keeps them afloat. Then we pass close aboard and fire a round or two into the hatches or the decks. With a roar the debris flies sky high and the ship is no more. Blast Lifts Motor Boat. I remember one big fellow with i war material. When the hatches went ; the blast lifted a great, huge motor , bdat lashed to the deck and landed it ; into the sea. Some stand straight up, with the propellers in the air, the! boilers explode, the funnel is torn . loose or the masts crash down. At timeg a torpedo is needed to finish the ship. It must bo complete, an A-l job. You might have read of boat crews re turning after the submarine has dusted to patch up the ship. This must not happen. The prettiest Fight I saw was when the Fiery Cross went under. Her long boat had jest come alongside with the ship's manifest, which was signed by her captain and returned to her skipper. The crew was already in the boats, sei smooth. A lieutenant, torpedo mute and a sea man pulled over in our little metal fdingfc to the bark and fastened three hand grenades to her side. Fiery Cross Goes Down. They all exploded and with nil sails set the bark settled. Gradually the sea blotted out one sail after another until the mlzzen lay. horizontally on the water and the Norwegian flag broke out red and blue asainst the ocean the last of the Fiery Cross going to her end under full canvass. It seemed to rnc that when they sank a vessel a good lookout was not kept. Often I looked around myself to see if some Britisher was coming up. It was the only time I was really anxious. They might have been alert and I not noticing it. How was the air while submerged? Not so -very good; vou could smell the atmosphere, like a close room; it made i you sleepy. It was hard to keep'awake and you wanted to drowse about and it would hurt your feelings to think that there were eight more thirsty men ' added to the ship's capacity when they , picked us up. Coffee and stew made I the main part of the grub the former ; to keep you awake. From one of the j sinking ships we got some tea, and a I Spaniard sold the officers wine and Italian cherries. And they bought but ; tei and eggs from a Dutchman. Existence on Hair Trigger. With this hair-trigger existence there could be no regularity of meals. The alarm "Tauf station" might come at any time. Down would go the big collapsible mess tables, their sup ports kicked out by men rising on the double quick, but silent. Bread, cof fee, pot and all dishes flew into the air and the stew spattered the bulkhead and your face it was touch and go, al ways. In spite of the heat from the en gines and their shafting, the air was damp. When U-39 was running below the surface the seams in the ceiling dripped constantly and even when she was on the surface there was a tricK lmg sweat of moisture. No wet cloth ing- cauld be brought Inside. TbW r- f dera were strict. Every so often vhen i near the surface, the air waa renewed and if a man found his head buzzing he would ask permission to open the air valve tn his comporatment a pipe run Ding through the length of the U-39. to get better air from the reserovir. Ho Motion trader Water. Always when the U-S8 was navigat ing the roar of machinery and pitch or roll kept the nerves strained. Under water there was no motion, everything was as still as a rock; you would not know you were going. But on the sur face in a bad blow, she rolled, but slowly. Some men would get seasick good sailors, too. Without amuse ment below decks, dull men were rest ing like reeling prize fighters waiting for tue gong for the round. All Have Iron Crosses. PORTLAND REAL ESTATE, POSTOFFICE, LIVESTOCK AND BUILDING STATISTICS IN HANDY FORM. , January February March . . April ... May ... June . . . July Augnat . Beal Estate Poatofflce Tratmfra Hecrtnta l.o a UN. 212 LI restock Becelpta Building i mile. Mieen. jno. 8 mo., njoa.. 1015 1914 in 4 . .1.05 . . HMt . . ! 1 . . !IH . . '.'12 . 8.1M .10.2.". wt.:wt2 UK.IIM K7.02H 80,11 T4S..-,nfl 7ur..:i(i0 8.400 M2 7.81 R.isa a.ono 5.83T 7.873 4e.fl.V) 6.1.1 at 85.812 20.138 14.221 lO.OlltJ 14.9:t 20,;is lT.ooi 14.H07 14;73 m.9SW 15.48 lS.ftHH 1S.701 . ni.tioa 20, ('It 21.075 ii.itsa 21.01 lan.wrj 8.W 847 M'7 47T 873 atn 410 31HH 4511 Permits Value. t 872.000 811.740 (HW.T8S C.r.9,416 432.0tlB 4110.005 37R.37S 728.970 I3.742.10R U.4U1.120 Cecrvao 2.041 $ 4.i.n:4 Iurreaa. 4.47 I1.014 on.470 1313 Il.TmOlO i cause or oraers. xne oincers iook a ibusinessllke view of their work and One might pull out his bag and flndjseemed like cogs in the great ma his clothes all mildewed and damp, and .chinery not humans. They had an in try a little mending, or he might have ifinite faith in the U-S9 and would a "mug up" or smoked herring, with 'surely perish first blowing up be a cupful of raspberry juice, a liebes- j fore capture. Of the nets planted by gaben from home. Nothing stronger !the British they had full knowledge was allowed On board. Or he would and charts and would simply sub shir.e his iron cross and look at it Emerge and go underneath them, Just proudly at arnVs lanRth as you do at !as they ducked the net sweeps dragged your first watch. For the crew had the iron class, with the ribbon, ster had the same, both every one in cross, second Captain Feer flrst and sec ond. And rightly they earned it even the extra money for each dive a dog's life in A steel can always on the brink of death. No wonder they were solemn and taciturn and the gaiety forced and momentary, with only an inward long ing to get home. Each torpedo gone, each sunken ship, each expended shell meant a shorter cruise and an earlier furlough and a bug from the Schatz in the village. But there was no brag, no hero stuf just men doing their duty quietly and in a whisper, without hate and be- by trawlers. (To Be Concluded Monday.) Cuba Uninterested In Relics of Maine In Consequence American Officials SUffrast That Their Return Would Be Acceptable. Havana, Sept. 4. (1. N. S.) The Cuban newspaper La Noche states that inasmuch as Cuba has not done any thing with the relics of the battleship Maine which the Maine commissioners allotted to this country to form part of the proposed Maine monument, the American officials have' signified their desire that the relics be Veturned. The relics consist of the after turret and two 14 inch suns. Various projects have been (suggest ed at different times for the Malna monument, but nothing was done be yond the appointment of a commission to pick out a site. It selected a beautiful spot. la Noche points out that the re. Its have been allowed to n.nt on tin- shore where the Amorii an left tt.,-m Gill Bros.' Dahlias. Greatest display of dahlias in the west. Take Mount Hood depot car un Montavllla line to KHth m ., tlieij 3 blocks east and four north. A u tort, take Base Line to Kussellville k hool. " then north one mile. ' iA.dv. Take no thought for the morrow, and soma morning you will wake up and find It is yesterday.. Attention to Detail The correctly attired man is careful to see that his ac cessories are right. We have earned the dis tinction of being considered the leading Glovers and Hosiers of Oregon Principal agents for Men's Guaranteed Phoenix Silk Hose, 50c, 75c, $1.00 pair. Men's Holeproof Guaran teed Hose, 25c pair. Guar anteed for six months. The world's best makes of Men's Gloves, carrying Mark Cross, Dent, Fownes', Mey ers', Baemo and Lennon's--Varsity Gloves. The newest shades and pointings in Men's Gloves for street and dress. Auto Gloves a specialty. - Tas. R. Keiser Thos. R. Hardy & Co. Handkerchiefs. Morrison St., Opp. P. O. Chas. F. Berg, Manager. The Imported Fabrics for this Season are excep tionally fine. SUFFICIENTLY VARIED IN COLOR. PATTERN and weave to satisfy every taste; in characters tically British shades and designs. You Are Invited to See Them. K. S. Ervin & Co., Ltd. Custom Clothing imported accessories for men custom shirts english rain coats for men and women Second Floor Selling Building Sixth and Alder Streets Showing All the Latest Imported Fabrics Reed Bros. TAILORS 203-204 Wilcox Bldg. Norman Brothers Tailors to Men Women NORTHWESTERN BANK BLDG. 101-106 Mezzanine Floor Corner Morrison and Broadway WW1 ANNOUNCES His preparedness for the coming season. Woolens of Individuality and exclusiveness await your inspection. Suite 201-202-205 Morgan Building. GEO. E. KRANER C. W. STOSE Established 1893 W. P. Kraner & Co. IMPORTERS AND TAILORS Second Floor Couch Building 109 Fourth Street. "We Are Not the Cheapest, but We Here the Best" : Attractive, Stylish Strictly Up-to-Date are the Woolens We are now displaying. Your inspection is requested. Johnson & Andersen (Succeors to John B. Coffey.) TAILORS Elks' Building Broadway At Stark