THE OREGON , SUNDAY JOURNAL. - PORTLAND. SUNDAY MORNING, JUNE . 7, 1015.
Is Needed
iare
Hats for Summer 1 Vear,
.milt "nil. " " ... .,::xt' '., ", ,i-
Military Ideas in Feminine
Headgear Have Been Sub
dued to Mere Suggestions,
By Anne Rittenhouse
(Copyright, 1915. hr MeClore Kawapaper v
, Syndic e.) .
IT USED to be said that woman'
crowning glory wag her hlr. Per
haps tthere .have been times when
this was true when luxuriant
tresses were at premium, a they
were worn flowing or In braid whose
r length- and thickness were a "object
for envy, hatred and malice among
those whose hair did not posses these
attributes. " ...
Nowadays, however when we fold
all the locks we own Into the
est possible compass, pin them down
and Restrain them with nets and
combs,- V woman' crowning glory
might more truly be said to b her
ha The old saying Is still useful
If It draws attention to the Import
ance tithe proper dressing nor the
head and emphasizes the balanced re
lation between gown and headgear.
W sometimes tire of hearing eternally-
of the superiority of French
women in matters : of dress. ; Stout
champions In this - country are .begin
ning to jlift their voices courageously
to express their belief lri the suprem-
- acy of bur own women even in re
spect to clothes. Continuous fault
finding lis as injudicious as continu
ous praise ; would be, and it Is un
necessary for the Improvement In the
art Of dasins ls reat and 80
general fin this country that our
women Actually begin to dream of
, wresting the palm from their French
cousins Who have born -It for so
long. i
f Ahead on Headgear.
There! ls still one detail of the sci-'-
ence of clothes, however. In -which
the French surpass us In which their
5 supremacy is unchallenged. That . ls
the way In which they hat themselves.
There has been improvement on-our
side of the water In this respect also,
but oh dear, there Is room for a lot
more. There are now fewer women
who keep a veil tied around their hat,
- md, on; going cut don everything at
once, running In the pins and pulling
down the veil with only a perfunctory
glance at the mirror, or nose at all.
If you are going to wear a veil at
all you imight as well put It on prop
erly. There Is a certain duty to soci
-ety in looking as well as one can, and
the moral result of making the best
of yourself physically, is one whose
effect, both mfon yourself and upon
those with whom you come In contact
It is difficult to overestimate..
Of lajte years there have been faw
veils worn in Paris; by the way,
, French artists have a t way of mak-
Ing thejmselvea heard in clothes mat
ters, and they object strenuously to
veils. tThe women seem to know how
to keepi In perfect trim without them.
It is almost a pity tnat tney nave oeen
so . generally discarded, - as It is a
charming study ' to watch, a Parisian
1 adjust one. She does It with the fln
. gers of; an artist and the Insight of a
philosopher. The line across the face
comes at the psychological point; If
there Is a pattern -It ls arranged to
the best advantage. She does not al
low a spot or a flower In the design
to obliterate the tip of ber nose or
make the mouth look lopsided or ob
scure her eyes.-...
- . j -scat Part of Costume.
The point which we In this coun
try have generally failed to grasp
'; is that; the hat is a component part
of the j costume of the whole ensera
.' ble, tb4t hat and gown must be homo
geneous or they will spoil- the ef
feet of each other. - Most estimable
- American women have, in still re
. cent years, excited a .somewhat cyn
I leal amusement In foreigners by ap
pearing In an expensive, obviously
French gown, with, a cheap domestic
hat above it, or by making the equally
. ridiculous blunder of topping a plain
- made-over gown with a millinery cre
, at to a of -large size and price. Old
fashioned Ideas of what constituted
a complete wardrobe, which have sur
vived Itheir generation, are probably
responsible for this misfit.
Just! now we are inevitably led to
- contrast the Civil war times with our
own. . -The stupendous struggle going
on la fcurope turns our minds natural
- ly to our own terrible days of struggle
which iare within the memory of the
elder among us. A more direct reason
for the comparison is the recrudes-
. cence of Civil war styles , which the
turn Of the wheel has brought us,
by coincidence or design, at this time.
: The evening gown worn by Mrs. Lln
" coin "upon the night of that never-to-be-forgotten
- performance of "Our
American Cousin," might be worn to
- day almost without a change. The
fitted j basque, the flounced skirt, the
widened shoulders, are all reproduced
by the evening gowns-of 1915. True
. . there f is no crinoline under the
riounces, but. there are featherbones
V and reeds and other substitutes for
. it already to be seen.
Many other details of dress ' repro
- dttcedi by modern clothes from the
- period! of 1869 bring the lives of those
Women before us in centrist to our
- own.
Klse of Sportswomen.
in xirai xnougnt that strikes na
is the?' manifold variety of the life of
representative women today. Even the
Average woman of means and position
" . now participates in many - activities
formerly left to men alone, not along
.uusmws ana processional lines, but In
public affairs, municipal, and philan
l throplc and, above all, in the dlatrao-
l tlona j and ; pursuits with, which they
1 In 180 women Indulged but miiriiv
and the average woman not at all, in
n -the amusements and exercises which
, we class under the name of sport
Motors, of course, were not inv.ntH
. but those games and pursuits which
already existed were very largely left
to such of the men in the country
w few" enough in number, too who- had
time or inclination for them.
Nowadays,? even on the public golf
- links J and - tennis courts, one sees a
irge .numoer 01 women players, and
it : rare -to rind a member of the
younger feminine generation at least
- .-who. Is not actively interested in some
form iof game.
One result of this has been to en
large enormously tne scop and varl
- ety or a woman's wardrobe. Rh.
have l clothes for pursuits and occa
sions 01 woua iier uivu war- sister
-' hardly knew i the names. A she is
- learning to - keep the details of her
. costume in ;harmdny with each other
r' it follows that -the collection of hats
has Increased, enormously also. Women
- of I860 were apt to have four hats in
a year, a. best one and an everyday
one, , lor winter and tusuner. . - Hnw
a t ny tWO
ltl 5.
tnvst have four-one for sport l
in the JRurckase of
country, one' for street and traveling,
one for ordinary afternoon wear and
one for more elaborate afternoon toi
lets or for the evening. If we have
a special hobby, like motoring or gar
dening, we need special headgear for
that as well.
It is an unmitigated blessing that
this extension of avocation is bring
ing us to . understand the proper fit
ness of costume to occasion, and the
relation of : the parts to each other.
It is curious and typical that the
French came long ago to this reall-
zation through the esthetic, as we are
coming to it through ' the practical.
Let us welcome anything which
teaches us to avoid incongruities like
$2 hats , with imported gowns. You
may deny that ' such solecisms are
committed in our day, but only this
winter I saw a leading character in a
New York production who appeared
on the stage in a gorgeous velvet gown
and a cheap straw : halt trimmed with
a 25-cent quill! No French woman on
the stage or off it would have done
such a thing as that. If she could
not afford the proper accessories, par.
tlcularly the headgear, for this gor
geous gown, she would have chosen a
simpler one. We still see women.
alas, survivals of the age when a new
bonnit" was the most potent femi
nine bribe, whose idea of smart dress
ing is to put an over-trimmed hat on
top of a plain gown, of quite 'a dif
ferent character. Only last week I
saw a misguided creature In a "util?
Ity" suit who had : topped her sallow
complexion and untidy drab hair With
a bright pink toque of shiny , straw,
surrounded j with cherries and capped
by a wired-pink bow which contend!
with her - tresses for the, honor of
straggling the more' wildly.; The most
tasteless French woman-and there
are very tasteless women In Franca
would have been preserved by her In
nate sense of the fitness of things
from such a ludicrous contrast, .
Another Difference.
It has been, well said that- the Anglo
Saxon woman puts , on her 4iat while
the Gallic poses hers. This exactly
expresses the matter. Did you ever
walk along a street and long to change
the angle of the hat of every other
woman that you met? There is an in
born and seemingly , irradicable ten
dency In--us to . wear our hats on the
back of our heads. ,
Until recently the milliner herself,
when you went to buy a hat, would
start it behind yon and shove it onto
your head from the rear. If you feebly
protested she would assure you that
they were "wearing them-- that way.
Then, of course, there was nothing
more to be said. For' of course, they
were: .rre-Hapnaeute saints may looic
well with their halos in this position.
out it la not oecomlng to the modern
face. -.-v, -
A grateful, soft shade cast over the
eyes is a flatterer to age, and a beau
tlfier to youth. It will improve a pret
ty woman and redeem, a plain- one.
This Is the probable explanation of
the perennial popularity of the sailor,
For its popularity certainly endures
Nearly half the hats on view at the
beet .places show some adaptation of
this shape. 1 Many, ; one might - say
most, of the .hats designed for. sport
ana ror tne country are of this form.
Country hats are made of all sorts of
materials this year. There is an Inter
esting revival of felt, which, began in
this type of hat. is predicted for other
types in the fall. Stiff enough to hold
its shape, or, if of lighter weight,
strengthened with, straw, x these ? hats
In sweater colors . are charming with
separate skirts and blouses-; Cretonne,
flowery and striped, is the raara. Some.
times the pattern Is cut out and Ap
plied to another materiaj. Woolen
flowers, of tightly bunched clipped
wool In the colors of the cretonne are
tne latest " trimming . for these . hats.
Other trees of ITooI. J..
Wool is used in other ways, braided
into, bands with tassels to surround
the crown, or used to embroider the
edges of m linen or crash hat. Bands
and bows of colored linen embroidered
in mercerised thread , are new - trim
mings for old Panamas. Japanese color
crepe witn its delightful coloring n and
arttstia patterns, is a newer material
lor country hats than chlntx. A nrettv
sailor of Indigo and. white crepe had
its brim lined with leghorn and the
edges done in blue, wool in a blanket
stitch. . Wider shapes are made of col
ored tussore, or embroidered pongee.
or rows of belt ribbon stitched to
gether..' A charming model Is a: modi
musn-
room orm, the brim of .which is
W whUe the crown is
U of
tT I
SbAtes
S .; .'
tassel falls from the tip.
, For street or traveling ?wear, when
something more compact than a sailor
La desired, the small boat shape still
holds Its own. Many little hats of this
type have been Inspired by the head
gear of other countries, and of -various
professions and trades, Spanish shapes
imitate the bullfighters round a boat
shaped hat with its large pomponavi
One model has small pompons or black
wool dotted at intervals all over It.
Ecclesiastical dignitaries have ben
forced to contribute new forms to rall-
linery. Another nodel which is de
veloped In straw and velvet, or"straw
and tulle, is like nothing so much as
a chef's ; cap.; The Chinese . . shapes
which were introduced at the begin
ning of the season have gone the way
of tne straw ? student's j cap ?. and the
jockey cap of another season and be
come too popular. Their influence is
still felt, however, as the idea was
too good to abandon altogether. A
souvenir of them is the use of tassels.
On a wide black straw shape a tassel
was used in a. new way. An orange
grosgrain ribbon was tied around' the
crown in a single bow on one side.
Upon the other a loop of orange silk
was passed under the "ribbon and then
down through the brim, and an orange
tassel dangled from the under side at
the end ' of the loop, and swept ' the
snouiaer or tne. wearer..;. ; ' . :
Military Ideas Snbdned.
Military Ideas which cropped out In
February have been subdued to mere
suggestions. We ail: feel too deeply
upon the subject of the war, our
thoughts are too much absorbed by
It as it is, and we do not care to have
our clothes reflect them. Small cloche
shapes -are -- taking the , place of trl
oornes ana forage caps. A very shiny
weave of satin has been Introduced for
millinery, and is combined with straw
in a sort of beret; shape. ;; Bird,; a
trimming, are appearing an riir fu
models, placed flat across the top of
small toques, t Birds, cut out of vel
vet, and applied flatly to a shape are
seen; occasionally. Flowers -also "are
cut out In this, way and follow the
tendency to keep the trimming -flat.
xne lines -ox tn own are left un
adorned in the newest hats. . Suede
and kid and - patent leather are used
for traveling hats which are designed
for bard service. -v.Th- h,v. nn trim.
ming at all but big nail head ' pins of
Jet, or balls and - other shapes made
of beads. ; ; ; 'ixri. - ' -
The simpler afternoon ' hats ahow a
revival of leghorn, and Nattlej- and
Boucher effects in lace," roses and rib-
oons. f iere the wide sailor & finds - a
revival 4 in- the ; shape which turns
smartly-' up . in the back, and is filled
in there with roses, which a. ribbon
passes over the : top and under ' the
hair. . Not everyone -: can - wear this
shape, for li is apt td dwarf the im
portance of the face and make . the
neaa appear an nat, unless the count
enance under It -iss unusually worth
looking : at. We should never - forget
that the hat " Is only the frame for
tne picture.;-, xt must be ; subordinated
to. we race, accentuate its good lines,
distract attention from its Door ones.
intensify too pale a complexion, tone
down a too florid one. : Do not think of
it, and consider buying it. as a pretty
hat, iut in its relation to your oWn
face and head first, and then to the
gowns with which you Intend to wear
It. Study yourself In it, and find oat
the " most becoming tilt at which to
poise k. f ' ' , -
Batls Sailor of Afternoons.
- A charming model in the type of
afternoon hat ror. ordinary occasions
is a white satin, sailor, quite na
trimmed, ave for a o.uaxs Tell of
tnia black lace, put smoothly; over
the crown and held la place by e, band
of silver ribbon, and then allowed to
fall as It W11L ThU is a graceful
model for an older woman, for It 1
fan of dignity and most becoming to
'gray - hair. A somewhat more 'youth
ful hat ls of grosgrain silk. In the
ubiquitous sailor shape, and in some
pretty pale shade, 1 the- edges bound
with fine white ermine. This would
be an ideal accompaniment ' to - the
white fox-trimmed sweater in : light
colors, which - is s luxury 6f the - sea
son. This Idea of binding the edges
of, a ,hat . Is popular, a The transparent
brims of tulle, georgette - crepe, net.
more rareiy cmixon, orten Hide their
wire, edge with, a binding of gold or
sliver ribbon . or satin -or velveWof
checkered ribbon In two colors, orNf
lines of beads.
Old-Girls ana
Bold Girls
By Edna K. Yooley.'
We hear and see so -much of the
bold girl these days thfft there is a
general. . impression . particularly
among men that she typifies the mod
ern girl. Young men complain that
they cannot find modest, homerloving
girls to marry. Older men complain
of the extravagance, the egotism, and
the heartleesness of the modern woman.
It's quite the fashion, Indeed, to criti
cize the modern girl, and If we belive
all these observations .born, from-ex
periences in- dance halls, "movie" shows
and on the " streets-we might truly
mourn the passing of : the sweet and
modest girl who conscientiously wished
happiness for others as well as for
herself.
True, the maiden of today ls neces
sarily changed in-some respects from
the maiden of grandmother's day. One
considerable reason for this ls that
our girls have to get out into the world
and hustle for a living. This has bred
In them self reliance-- and - a desire
to handle money for themselves two
facts which a large number of modern
men resent. Also, the girl of today
thinks .- along broader lines another
fact . which many men resent.- .The
average mediocre man wants to do all
the thinking necessary for wife and
self, and if the average young maa
can't be an oracle. to a girl be has no
use for her. -
That a girl or woman can really
know things for herself, and that she
can develop the faculty for logical
thinking, has driven many a man away
from the "right sort" of girl, whom he
claims to admire, to the sort whose
chief ambitions are to wear the short
est skirt, the flashiest jewelry, - the
most-, face powder, .keep the latest
hours and have the longest '. string of
beaux,. He lumps the former with the
suffragettes, and sneers at the latter.
Tve Just been reading a letter from
a' modern girl who is earning her own
living, refusing to live on the bounty
of a father, who ls able to support her,
She lias bad a proposal of -. arriage
from i an excellent young man whom
she has known for a number of years.
And because - this letter voices the
thoughts of many a girl of today,- X
am going to, let you read parts of lv
"As you knew," the letter begins,--"!
have been - working for over - a year,
and I really like my work. But now I
am ' so puzzled. . - . . We have
been going together almost two years
and everybody expects us to marry.
He ls 23 years old and I am 20. His
people- idolise him 'and be takes It all
as a matter of course. - I am afraid be
ls a little spoiled.
"He has asked me to be his wife,
but I doubt if he actually realizes all
that means. That ls ' why 1 feel un
decided. I am sure I love hlm because
I always, feel so contented when with
him. ; . t - He comes to see me
only once a week. Don't you think,
if he really loved me, he would want
to be with me oftenerT He sayshe
loves me and often gets lonesome for
me through the - week; Jbut then, why
doesn't be come oftenerj I think he
would If I would ask him, but I feel
that It would be unmaldenly to urge
him. , -
"And there ls another thing. He ls
oid-fasnioned about money matters.
You know i have tasted Independence.
I don t need to marry for a- home.
Don't you think marriage ought to be
a partnership in Which both have equal
rights ana get equal share In the la
come and losses? Does a wife not
help her husband make the money and
ought he .-. not to C share with her in
stead of making her dependent noon
blm for every little thing she wants?
I feel -that -way about it, but I don't
think he does. . I feel . that X - ought
to talk to him about it before promis
ing to be his wife. I couldn't bear to
marry blm and cave him be.dlssatls
'T7
r:.
A- .-
On the left, bine taffeta trimmed -with black and white striped silk, .
- On the seated flgrore, 1 red , jersey with blue stripes and blue -'r
skirt. The black suit is of satin with high white collar and
caffs and on the right is a green merecerized silk Jersey salt -with
attached -knickers laced at the side with black silk cord.
fled, and I am sure I should be mis
erable if I felt myself a dependent.
"He ls 7 truly a gentlenian In every
way and has none of the usual young
man's bad habits. Perhaps X ought to
be thankful just for the love he gives
me. X know a great many girls would
Jump at the chance to marry him. But
I want to be square - with him. I
couldn't bear - to impose on any one.
least of all blm,, and he must. In his
STRIKING COSTUME WITH
White serge embroidered in bine
skirt and
e m
W MM
I. : V ,
-
heart, be satisfied before I can be
happy."
..-This letter deals - with a modern
problem, but it contains all of a sweet
gHTs world-old feelings. "He must
be satisfied before X can be happy." .
This letter-writer 1 not an excep
tion among modern girls. She typifies
the rule. But the truth ls that the
large class of men finding fault with
the modern girl hasn't kept pace with
the real girl of the day.
FLARING SKIRT, CUFFS J
on the odd cuffs, at the belt, on the
o n the bodice.
21
-'X
' Cretonne and
Ckintz Worn
By M argaret M cuon
Is that an old arm chair I see.
Parading down the street.
Dressed n its swnmer cretonne slip?
cu, reo.iiy,.xit oe oeat ,
If it's not Mrs. Robert Brown,
In cretonne hat and cretonne gownl
She's QUita the Kmartut thins- in tnwtv
So tear your cretonne draperies down
AncJ make them into garments gay
'Tls Fashion's new decree
..That all who bow beneath trer sway
aiusc very Chintzy. De.
: New York, June 26. (U. P.) Fash
ion. ls going to give us the slip this
summer. At least, she will make us
look as much as possible ,like the ere
tonne slip on the wing, eh air and the
family davenport.- Gay flowered chintz
and cretonne ls being used in prodigal
profusion, not only to trim summer
frocks, but to create them entirely.
Perky little short Jackets of bright
cretonnes are putting the little silken
jackets out of business as popular ac
cessories of ' the summer toilette to be
worn with - a filmy lingerie - frock.
Floppy garden hats, trim sport hats
and artistic picture bats are all suc
cessfully fashioned from the stuff that
window curtains and bedspreads ar
made from.:'
Parasols of cretonne bloom with gay
plumaged birds are cabbage-sized
flowers, and gate-topped bags of chintz
add yet another item to its many sar
torial uses. Even our young and our
automobiles are aot safe from thi cre
tonne - epidemic, and bonnets, aprons J
and tiny cretonne baskets to match are
offered as a complete beach outfit for
the small kiddie, while the most up-to-date
motors are being upholstered
for the summer season in smart black
and white block and striped cretonnes,
and even in floral and bird designs on
black or gray backgrounds. Some low
and vulgar punster might even go ao
far as to accuse Madame La Mode r
having the chintz bug, but far be It
from me.
While In the upholstery and drapery
department, snooping around for ideas,
Fashion has also seized 'upon silk and
metal fringe as a trimming novelty.
On both hats and frocks she is using
it with a lavish hand. Silk fringe in
all colors ls used for the entire crown
of a hat whose brim ls made of vel
vet. White sUk fringe, particularly, is
effective to make these soft and
fluffy, fringy crowns.- while the me
tallic fringe In gold or silver Is used
more extensively to. edge the velvet
brims of the newest midsummer cha-
peaux. Usually the trimming on these
hats with metal fringe edged brims ls
a single tassel of the same metal. The
hats with silk fringe crowns also have
a penchant for tassel trimming and
often the tassel finishes a scarf that
knots aronnd the crown and drop its
tasseled end gracefully to the wearer
shoulder. .
As a dresa trimming the abort auk
and metallic fringe are most effective
trimmings, especially edging the short
jackets - and bigbwater full skirts of
the crisp taffeta cresses, i'arasoia ana
bags - edged and trimmed with silk
fringe to match follow closely on the
fringe of fashion. Even veil have
fringe borders , and though you may
sniff and turn up your nose at them
you are bound to be carrying a riingea
handkerchief soon for they .certainly
ar up to snuff.'
Fringe has even invaded the jewelry
realm and pendant earrings of sclntall-
1 a ting golden fringe, necklaces of It
karat fringe and gold bar corsage pins,
fringe edged, are lovely, nestling In
the film and froth of summer rabrie.
. When the tired business man comes
home these nights he's going to have
an awful time to tell bis wife from the
eook. that iv of course, if he's lucky
Faskion Hints
for Summer
By Anne Rittenhouse.
Black ahd whit 4 more ffectivt
used thanl ever before end they forr
a combination that can be made f
more striking than crimson and grai
green, if one wishes' to make it eo. -
Silk port hats, with wide, ehadlar
brims, sometimes figured and , om
times plain, are featured by tin
smart milUnora.
Points are; nwch used in the rie
frocks there, are pointed tunics, an
skirts cut in 1 deep points at the bot
tom and points In some form appenr
on many bodices.. .
Bead embroidery is still used.' In t
new frock the whole bodice, save tt
sleeves, ls covered with bead-embroli
ered daisies. . .... ..
. - - '
Silk . Jersey suits are worn to
sporta There is a sweater jacket ar
skirt, usually a sash or scarf to mat; ;
and often a Jaunty little cap, tn :
with a point on each side, one endin:
in a tassel, the other fastened flowi
with a silk-covered button.
Prediction ls mad that for a ;
tumn wear voile and etamlne 1
heavy, coarse weave are to .be fea
tured. These are both deslrabl
fabrics, for they have an element
durability that makes them econom!
cal.- --.;- . .
Lacings appear in some of the ne
frocks and blonsea Sleeves are some
times laced from the elbow to th
wrist, sometimes from the shoulder t'
the elbow. Lacings appear down th
front of blouss and at the collar. Th
lacings are contrasting color, usually
Wool embroidery ls still used or
summer frocks. It - usually show:
crude, bright colors - that remind u
of the days when the Balkan w.v
stood sponsor for so' many vivid col
or In our frocks.
Yoke tops on circular skirts ar
gaining popularity. The yoke ieo
to give more stability to this flaring
bias skirt. - ' ; i
Over collars,-are worn with many
of the new linen and pongee and Pain
Breach Cloth coat suits. These collar
are made of r striped linen, figure
cretonne, plain and figured pique am
organdie.
Furs for summer wear, worn lr
France last summer and the summ:
before, are gaining ground rapidly , 01
this side of the Atlantic this year
And indeed it is difficult to see wh;
furs should not be worn on cool sum
mer days in the mountains as well p
on warm winter days. White fox 1
especially" suitable, because of its colo
for summer wear, and is so far b;
far the most popular.
Fur trimmed sweater coat, too, ar.
gaining In fashion. Made in pink an
blue and pale yellow and white sill:
with hems and collars and cuffs o
white" fox, they are admirable fo
wear with afternoon and even evenlm
frocks at the seashore and in th
mountains. -.. -.'..;...-:'
Contrasting linings In coats for Al
and evening wear are usual. Oft
figures are used for- the llnlntr, ar
some smart coats are lined with two
colored checked silk. .
A hem of tulle ls used on some eve
ning frocks of taffeta for young glrl
The skirts ,re exceedingly short an
full and the tulle hem extends abou
two inches below the taffeta.
; Tulle oversklrts are often boun
with a narrow bias strip of . silk o
satin. This gives a firm finish an.
at the' same time stiffens the tull
so that it stands out in the approve
fashion. ; i
Taffeta cuffs are put on man:
sleeves of tulle and lace. !n separate
blouses or in frocks, either of tull
lace, satin or taffeta.
' Violet and pansy shades are corn
ing into prominence, and there is rn
dicatlon that by next winter thej
may be la high fashion.
Wash silk in stripes is used f ot
sport frocks. The blouse Is made ir
shirtwaist stylewith plain shlrtwal
sleeves and usually a patch pocket,
and with a - collar that can be worr
open or closed. The skirts are short,
full at the bottom, and generally
pleated about the hips, sometime
made with a yoke. These frocks ar
admirable for morning wear in th
country '
f Parasols trimmed in the inside ar.
one of the features of the summer.
The trimming takes the form of em
broidery, frill of tulle and ctslf f
and applied flowers or birds of ci:
Silk handbags of black, lined w-U'
bright figure silks, are effective wii,
dark frocks. Many of them have t
big colored stone for a clasp.
Sleeveless silk sweater coat are t
welcome novelty, for they solve th
problem of giving a -little warm;
without giving too much.
1 i
" Prineess dresses are coming bo l
into fashion. It is said, and one Intii
cation Of this return Is the front r."''
cut in one piece for waist and ' .r
shown en some of the new Uns '
frocks. This gives a good chance t
embroidery, which is so much u
this summer on net and other lingers
frocks. .
Awning stripes In silks are used fo
shirtwaists for morning and . sport-wear,-.
enough to have both. The way a! t
smartest frocks are affecting Hi;
aprons of organdie and Paris mu:
to match up their neck frills and ct, -
Milady and Milady's maid will soon 1
able to do a sister act.
The apron effects are verv be wit fil
ing, though, and add just the last qua:
touch to a demure little dress cf r-
or old blue crepe de chine with Qut;
collar and cuffs of white organcm. .'
mustard yellow frock of pussy wi
taffeta or an old rose of Ge ri.
crepe make lovely backgrounds f or t
frilly froth of a lace trimmed r '
panel of white net and a fichu
match and. the result ls ao you:
that the wearer' looks not like a 1
but a maiden.
Wealth in'lrotrpert.
Kansas City Journal.
"My brother, has a scheme tt
rich."
"What is It?" , ,
"He's negotiating for t'
prlvilere of all thtts : -
tlneiis,'