JLast Word m
Skirts For
O ' TT 7!
oummer w ear
'73 " : '
Belts - and Pockets Favored
e in Separate Skirt, Espe-
. cially Yar Outing Purposes,
" , By Anne Rlttenhotxse
V ' (Copi-rlght. lBT.i. l.r McClure Hewsptper
TW HE choice of materials for your
1
separate sKirts aepenas. 01 course,
upon the sort of holiday you ln-
, tend to have. If you are going far from
civilization for a camping or fishing:
1. expedition, or for a loaf in the woods
i inaccessible by railroad and telegram.
you will need practical, dark things
j which can stand hard service. The
5.-English tweeds and homespuns are ex-
0- aellent for -such purposes as they are
pratcically indestructible and nearly
t-waterproof besides.
. , The greenish shades, almost india-
tinguishable in the woods and univer-
sally chosen on the continent, are all
Vgood for such service. In England
the tramping and country stilts are
1- made in all kinds of colors, in purple,
lavender, pink and light bine. Frieze
t in these colors is pretty as well as
serviceable and a wash silk blouse
t'Cf the same shade makes a becoming
and sensible garb.
; - Corduroy a rPavoxite.
7 ' Even when buried in the depths of
T the woods there are occasions when
.'one wishes to look a little more f es
v tive and then the tried and true white
i'skirt and blouse axe called - upon.
' . "White flannels and serges are best for
..'skirts fa such places, but if your holl-
day is to be spent at a summer resort
j you will certainly have Included skirts
of wash materials.
-' Corduroy . is a favorite both in white
, and colors.- Cotton gabardine is a new
comer which has won its spurs and
S. beach cloth Is another. -Then there
, " are the piques than which nothing is
-smarter, duck, galatea, rep, whipcord
' j -and all the linens. Russian crash in
-rwhite and 'unbleached shades has been
1 revived lately. There are Russian
v-blouse suits of It on sale, the blouse
something like a smock, but with the
e fullness laid In fine pleats and collar,
o f 'shoulders and side opening decorated
-"With self-colored Russian embroidery.
. -'The skirt' to go with it had a panel of
mbroidery down the front and eep-
arate ones were shown with yokes of
embroidery or with groups of pleats at
'-the side held in place by squares of
! decorative stitches.
' ' " Much license is allowed In the
'choice of a model for building the
separate skirts. The two opposite
'types are the full kilt-plaited and
"'the full circular. Between these types
come many variations. Neither . is
very appropriate for washable skirts.
The plaited one offers too great a
'-task to the ironer and the circular one
' Is bound to sag with hopeless uneven-
MSI IV V4 WW H'V V V-u
hem any longer but the inequality
"TJnust still be logical and intended, not
the result of accident.
? ' Many models have groups of plaits
I to widen, them "in a front panel or at
each side. Others have variations of
5 the hip yoke idea. "some with a yoke
. 3 overlapping in front like the points
Jpf a vest, some with yoke and front
v v j panel cut in one, or the yoke may ex
. o.tend only around the back and sides
; end the front breadth be left plain.
-.One of -the best types is - the three
J piece compromise, opened right up the
$ front for convenience in ironing and
, closed again with buttons and buttons-holes.
This model is equally appro
- prlate to all materials destined for
the laundry, whereas the plaited ones
are a mistake for linen. Linen crushes
.csrith fatal facility and a lot of
wrinkled plaits, their lines running in
very direction but the right one, is
an unedlfyin,g spectacle.
i- Pockets Are Essentia.
No matter what cut you may
choose, be sure to have pockets, in
some chape or manner, for the 1915
. .ckirt will not -consider existence with
,ut -them. There are two recognized
types, the patch and , the slit. . but
-, .their variations are legion. Of the
:. -first variety some1 are military,
- . square and buttoned down with a flap,
some are oblong and without a flap,
some are shaped like the nest of a
chimney swallow, some are like deep
.hags hung from the bell with an open
,ing down one side. They are placed
.singly or in. pairs low on the sides,
-or directly, in front, or one in each
Bide of the front breadth.
- :, They : are decorated with braiding
and embroidery, or left plain, as
are also the slit varieties, which often
""lend an opportunity for elaborate
-decoration to a plain skirt. These last
"'Jvary themselves by being set. directly
in front or at the sides, straight or
; slanting.
The belt is another important de
, tail this season. It is sometimes
"Stitched on, .but often detachable to
,J,jlve an opportunity for the colored
"leather i girdles which have been
taken into favor again. The skirt is
" often finished with no belt at all in
" the fashion of the- last few years, but
' this summer the addition of a stiff,
- short plaited frill is often made to the
" top edge of the skirt. Sometimes this
- '.frill goes right around the -waist and
- -' often it appears only in the back.
3 Two jiarrow belts, one at the natural
,wa'ist line and one below it, are a
fancy Of the season,
s , Cheap Buttons False Economy.
'" The buttons are usual y of, mother
" Of pearl which can be left undisturbed
-'tor the wash unless the laundress is
particularly hostile to them, and some
J ' of them seem to have sworn to a war
" of extermination against them. Cheap
"buttons for a washable skirt are a
- '' false economy as they break and lose
"'"their 'luster and spoil the effect of
""the whole garment. Brass ones are
. 2' used to some extent on the neutral
colored skirts and silver bullet-shaped
ones are-very new. The bullet shaDe
' in all : materials was an introduction
of last summer which found favor and
; jaaa oeen carrxea . over.
A French : idea, which is not new
' ; o this country but has" been largely j
.: aeveiopea inis year, is the half-
finished separte skirt which the shops I
are -irermg at sucn moderate prices.
r f JWhy .-the stitching iof a seam up the I
Iback should be apparently such high-!
,.ly - specialized labor that it adds
.'. t dollars to the price of a garment, is
;one f those mj-steries which no Sher
v; lock Holmes of the dresmaking world
has :bee able' to . solve.
It is an extremely simple operation !
r and ; offers the womanv ; with home l
dressmaking facilities one . of the op
: portunities to save -her pennies which
. e are all looking for this year. The
ready-to-wear finished skirts have a
haiit f leaving the hem unstitched
and It is a good idea to strengthen this
basting somewhat and wear the skirt
in this condition
until it has made its
laundry. Most linen
first trip to the
and cotton materials shrink srm-
what with the first washing and any
defects in the ljne and hang of the
hem can then be easily remedied and
the final stitching completed.
Variety Xranecsssary.
One more " word to the wise: If
economy is an bject to you do not
buy too many separate skirts for
summer. The effect of an washable
skirts is very much of a muchness,
so that a large variety of them is un
necessary. When skirt styles change,
as they have been doing lately with
startling abruptness, we do not know
what to do with the old ones. Ma
terials and weaves change constantly
and the new ones are usually never
desirable, so that It is not worth
while to make the old stuff over, and
yet we never seem to wear out a
wasn skirt, and: they are always ex
asperatingly good at the end of a
season. i ,
What are we j going to do, for ex- i
ample, with all j our narrow wash
skirts this summer? No self-respecting
woman, oe sn-e ever so needy, will be
found in them in this country, and it
is hard to imagine of what use they
would be to the European refugees,
except, perhaps,) as petticoats. The
short, hot season of northern Europe
makes the gift i of them a doubtful
blessing to the poor.
Of course, it is not every year that
skirts treble and quadruple their cir
cumference, as they did this time, but
we never really j know what the mor
row may bring forth, and we have no
Madam Thebes in sartorial affairs to
tell us. A little consideration will
CHIFFON EMBROIDERED
' 1 ; I
V J 4W r ; s7
convince us that a moderate number
of separate skirts iand blouses will
suffice us. Too great lavishness in
this direction is an example of that
ill-considered buying which is an
economic mistake, no matter how
large the income at! 'our disposal. 1
It Pays o Plan.
Buy ; In haste and repent at leisure
would j be a good : motto to engrave
in the front of every woman's ac
count book. It pays over and over
again in satisfaction, as well as in
IN GREEN ATTRACTIVE GOWN FOR SUMMER WEAR
."Wlilte chjf on embroidered la green witii satin bodices.
dollars and cents to plan carefully for
the season's clothes expenditure, and
then to adhere to one plan and not
yield to the temptation of cheapness
and "bargains." to say nothing of the
lure of prettiness, which assails us on
every side. The beguiling is nowa
days so subtle that we have to emu
late St Anthony and learn to beat him
at his own game. The most highly
paid advertising managers are enlisted
against us. and the lure of the shop
windows of the cities is represented
y v v vjL i i Vn.i v v xu
: - . -i
in the country by aH the resources of
the fashion magazines which are sown
broadcast over the length and breadth
of the land, each one tempting us in
expertly persuasive language and pic
tures to buy, buy,-buy.
NOVEL LAMP SHADES
No factor in household decoration
has been more neglected than that of
lighting. One pays high for the ele
ment of good taste and "even then
good taste is not easy to find. The
better shops recently have been show
ing good fixtures and attractive lamps
and shades, a few of them reasonable;
but as a rule the prices still are high
in proportion to the value.
This condition opens a field, in which
the woman with clever fingers can
make shades either for her own home
or for sale. The work is pretty, and
there is good financial profit in it.
A few specialty shops ' have dis
played very attractive shades with
chinta designs that are not difficult to
copy. These sell as high as $20 for
the most elaborate lamp shades, and
$10 or $15 a set of four candle shades.
They are made of white drawing paper
Ftretched smoothly on frames con
structed of gilded-wire. The edges are
fastened together with little brass
paper clips, and on the paper shade
are pasted birds, flowers and other de
signs cut from chintz.
Sometimes the drawing paper is
tinted and the edge bordered with a
narrow black or gold line.
While such work is not difficult, it
requires care, neat fingers, patience
and an eye for the symmetrical past
ing of the chintz designs.' The initial
cost of the shades is very small, and
they are certainly charming when
finished.
I saw recently; in a country house
another clever -use of the cut-out
chinta design. The glass shades for
the side lights were inoffensively
plain as to line, but the light origi
nally had been . distressingly glaring,
and the shades were distinctly., un
decbrative. - However, the: hostess had
pasted on the glass cut-out figures of
chintz and1 lined the shades with a
soft-fint paper that subdued the light.
The effect was charming. In the bed
room, where the - designs . were cut
from the same Chintz in which the
room was done, the effect was par
ticularly pleasing. "The shades had
the appearance of being painted to
match the room;, and it was only by
running an inquisitive finger over the
surface ' that the ingenious - plan was
discovered. '.' . ' - ,-, ; .- v -;; i" : , .
Shades of gathered! V chintz -or- silk
are better, of course, - than any other
for drop lights; but if a room is large
and side lights' are necessary, or are
already there and cannot be changed,
the device suggested is excellent, .
Another attractive novelty for, bou
doir lamps and candles can be made
from, white paper shades with silhou
ettes in black; painted or pasted on.
Any design- that- silhouettes well can
be traced on a white shade and Marked
in with very little labor. . -
: ' 4 ..j No." --
From the indianapoils News.,
The war costing $2,000,000 an hour?
JYhy. 'tain't worth iti
TRANSPARENT HAT IS THE
CORRECT; SUMMER THING
i
ZZlZa J,-0nhinsr . f CPV Inw fashion;
J flat a re a 1 1 v milt nlain tn )a un
duo dow is so very transparent
She s even exnosrns' her bean
In bats that are made of illusion!
For frocks of the same she is keen.
xn lingerie, mouses ana mantles.
All made of illusion she's seen.
And so in a paradox manner
Results -of all chance ar herff.
Because she's so wrapt in Illusion,
XTEW TORK." June 19 CTJ.
Ill Hats won't cover a multitude of
sins in the hairdressing line any
more. Tou've got to have a good "do
on your hair nowadays, because the
very smartest chapeaux can easily be
seen through. There are two popular
xurms or tne transparent hats the one
a simple, straight, flat brim, composed
of two layers of malln stretched
smoothly, over the wire frame the
other has the brim composed of a wide
floppy , ruffle of the maline, double
thickness, with occasional wires I radi
ating from the crown to keep the ruffle
from going altogether! i
While transparent crowns ot the
same maline are still verv ennrt th
latest effect is to have a velvet Crown
in the midst of the catizv brim. I Ti
open face hats are most stunning in
an oiacK, wun a single yellow or pink
rose as
iuo omy aaornment, but all
white .hats or delicate pinks and blues
are also most fetching, with Uheer
summer frocks, and most summer
crocks are all of that, let me! tell
1.
you.
Organdie for Procks.
Organdie so thin and exquisite of
weave and texture that Queen Mab
herself might well be pleased to don
it: is-the material de luxe for summer
frocks and blouses. In all: delicate
tints,- either plain or strewn with
pompadour garlands it, is the quintes
sence of feminine loveliness. The all
white organdie , is ideal for lingerie
gowns ; and blouses particularly, as
by a new triumph of the weavers art
it now washes like a dream and rises
as beautiful and supreme from the
wash as Venus from the wave I
For the wide Quaker collars and
cuff s, Ntbe many quaint' fichus 7 and
kerchiefs that now adorn the Iricto
riano toilettes, organdie has not ade
quate rival It has only one defect.
It is so veryj very sheer that it leaves
absolutely, nothing to the. imagination.
This Is a defect, however, that) . per
tains' to but certain cases.
Indeed, the admonition to "keep
your shirt on might easily be of
fered by a short sighted person jto an
organdied : bloused , lady. The more
natural conjecture would doubtless be.
however, that she didn't have any on
to keep. These organdie blouses doubt
less Tely on their revealing powers
for sufficient charm, for they almost
altogether eschew Iaca or other embel
lishment and save for a few tiny hand
tucks or embroidery are strictly I plain
and tailor made. '.' .
' Pamous Xek-a-boo zs Outdone.
There's nothing peek-a-boo : 'about
these 1915 models; rather should they
WaJte taffeta bordered with blue stripes and solid blue taffeta
bodice. White net embroidered in silver with belt of pearls and
Bapphlres. Hat and bag of. blue and green striped Bilk.
j be dubbed the Jong-and-lingerlng-look-
1 . .
waists.
Of course, stockings have to put
their foot in it and get in the non
concealing clans also by dropping a
stitch or two In the most nonchalant
manner, with openwork clocks and
openwork strips -and other openwork
motifs too numerous to, enumerate.
a it is only natural for stocklrrs to
go to extremes, since that's what thev
arei made for, their swift transition
from these openwork gauze effects for
dress and dance occasions, to cashmere
end all-wool creations for sport wear
is not to oe wondered at. Rather than
wear woolen hosiery, my Letfy Dainty
yesterday would rather have suffered
a thousand ills, but today she flaunts
them in the face of the multitude on
the; links, the tennis court or at the
steering: wheel. They come In" all the
ongnt, plain colors or white and col
ored stripes and checks. The black and
wnji pm cneca models are perhaps
iao mo popular to match un the
many sport coats and. suits f shep
herd's Plaid.
Can It be that . She will iumn as
nimbly from her chiffon chemise Into
wooien lingerie 7
Big Waste of
Life Stufl:
By Ada Patterson
' A woman of frO died recently and
the papers published "-her photograph
and .said ; she would b - very much
missed in .society. They stated that
he would be missed . because she
gave such original entertainments. &
, Shortly, before . it was recorded of
a young -man who met a sudden death
in j a deplorable : catastrophe at sea
that he would be missed because be
could toor a, tallyho with such grace
and dexterity. , ':-.-.'.' '-
. Whoever thought their way through
these Items of news could .not escape
the thought: "What a waste of life
stuff!" Amusing : entertainments!
Tooling a tallyho! AU right In their
place, these accomplishments but who
wants to be remembered for tbem7
Solely for them! , . .
With so , much building needed in
the world! Building of schools, build
ing of organizations for self help and
for ' help of others," building of for
tunes? building ; of characters, life
building! And this , man - and this
woman, one (0, the other well into
the f orQes, are remembered only by
what was as ineffectual : in. the big
scheme , of the world's -ivities as "a
rat scampering across a garret floor.
- About the same, time a, man went
down to his death when, an incoming
hip .wa torpedoed by its enemies.
That man's life i story Is told In no
society notes. ..It was no record of a i
tallyho - coach ' achievement. All his
life he had been a builder.
. He had built an institution, which
manufactured beautiful objects for
the' home. This was the life work
but he performed another. He built
a philosophy of every day living that
made men and women bigger, braver,
stronger, better. When he died these
men and women sobbed as they hail
not wept, some at the graveside of a
parent.
I should like - to see inscribed on
every tombmone for the knowledge of
all who saw, a record of the lives of
those whose dust lay beneath the
stone. "He was a blacksmith. The
shoes staid on the homes he shod
longer than any Others In the coun
try." A record of work well done.
"She was an, efficient housewife.
The wlndowpanes of her house shone
as Jewels." '
"She was a teacher and touched the
lives of her pupils to blessedness."
"She was a good mother. All her
children were good and some of them
were great. ;
' If every gravestone were a testi
monial to a man's or woman's at
tainments, there would be cause for
reproach in the line "She gave amus
ing entertainments." Or "He toole-1
a tallyho well. -
Then the gravestones, bare of all
save the name and date, would be a
cause for shame. For It would be th
record of one who had done nothing
worth while.
TODAY'S BEAUTY
SUGGESTIONS
Face powder simply covers up an
Unattractive complexion and leaves
no lasting benefits. Those who have
tried a simple spurmax face lotion
find it much better, as It removes skin
discolcrations, such as freckles and
tan, and makes the akin smooth, white
and velvety. ; This. lotion is made by
dissolving four ounces of spur.nax In
one half pint hot water, then adding
two teaspoonfuls glycerin. This com
plexion beautifler does not rub off or
show', like powder, and gives a more
refined appearance. It removes both
shinlness and sallowness, rapidly giv
ing the skin a permanent healthy,
youthful appearance.
iAn especially fine ehampoo for this
weather can be had at trifling ex
pense by dissolvings a teaspoonful of
canthrox In a cup of hot water. Four
slowly on scalp and massage briskly.
This creates a soothing, cooling lather
that dissolves and removes an dan
druff, excess Oil and dirt. lllnslnj
leaves the scalp spotlessly clean, soft
and pliant,' while the hair takes on a
glossy richness of natural color," a 1 -
a flufflneas which , makes It t": i
very much heavier than it Is." Aftr
a canthrox shampoo arrar,!r t
hair Is a pleasure. ' (