0 EVERY WOMAN WANTS TO KNOW H Design for a .Laundry Bag New Hands for Old, Milady I our child Needs Car; By Mme. Qui Vive. By Mary Lee. THE ; OREGON ! SUNDAY JOURNAL, 1 PORTLAND, SUNDAY MORNING, APRIL 18; 1915. I -It-". . Fear of old age, with its wrinkle and other .unlovely evidence of youth's departure. Is the busy imp that trail at the heel of Beauty, spurring her to fresh endeavor. Every woman know that eventually the year will . descend upon her head, but just how heavily they strike, the blow depend upon, her effort to resist them. If not how you look today, O charmer, but how you are going to look 10 or ' 20 years from now. With that thought In mind you can scarcely fail to do your best. After the age of 40 the soft tissues under the skin dissolve more rapidly than nature can renew them. Some times thfs process begins earlier: it depends upon the woman constitu tion and the good care he ha given herself. ,The first tearful sign is a tiny fold in front of the lobe of the ear. After that the throat is likely ' to crinkle. Then the hands and arm begin to look wan and worn. Oh! that we might always stay young! The average time fighter seldom cpnuiders the beauty of her arms. 8he will care for her hair, massage her Complexion, manicure her shell - pink llncer nails, and hunger herself to a state of starvation for the sake of her . figure. Her arms are forgotten, which is a pity indeed, since these good memi bers serve her well and are deserving - of the best consideration. They re spond more quickly to attention than any other part of the body. The fol lowing direction for hand and arm massage are an exploitation of the ex- act, process given In the most up to date beauty shops of Paris. . The treatment is wonderfully effective" and will positively prevent scrawnlness and ugliness, coarse texture of skin and the heavy surface of epidermis that often forms on the elbows. Brew of Xagio X.otloa. The first need is a cold cream. This .formula is unexcelled: Spermaceti, two ounces. ; White wax. two ounces. Sweet almond oil, t.en ounces. Melt in a porcelain vessel which h been placed in a hot water bath. When the '. Ingredients are thoroughly Incorporated remove from the fire, adding: .' Stronger 'rose water, three ounces. Powdet-ed borax, 40 grains. Fluff to a foam with an egg beater, pouring into small jars just iefore the mixture is solid. Bathe the hands and -arms in warm : water and pure white unscented "soap, drying thoroughly and frletion lng with a Turkish towel. Anoint with the cream; massaging briskly and firmly into the skin. Stroke up and down the arms and then with the fingers braceleted about the arm go round and routO from wrist to elbow. Massage the elbow itself with a cir cular movement of the finger tips. Beginning with the thumb, . treat each digit separately, taking great care to rub the cream well Into every joint and knuckle. Smooth upward "and downward, also round and round. Give particular attention to the cuticle -about the finger nails. Finish up by, rubbing the palms of the hands to-! - gether. This massage treatment should be continued for 10 or 15 min-j Utep. it is no trick at all, and the special. Important purpose is to force" the skin to accept as much as possible of the. emolient. At the finish of the frictioning the flesh should be pink and glowing,-and the arms warm. The heavier and firmer the treatment the wore effective the results will be. ' When the cream is pretty well ab sorbed sprinkle the hands and arms with powdered almond meat. Pat it on the flesh, so that all the surface is covered. Have some member of your family wring a large Turkish towel out of very hot water and cover hands and arms closely, so no air can penetrate. As the towel cool apply fresh ones, steaming hot: the hotter, the better. The effect of the com bination of cream and meal will be really wonderful. Imparting to the surface of the skin a soft, velvety 'feel"' that is positively luxurious. The compresses should b continued for 10 minutes. . Beware Soap and Water. w Remove the meal and cream with absorbent cotton which has been dipped In warm water to which a tea- spoonful of tincture of benzoin has been added. Never remove an emol lent with soap and water, else your good work will be lost. Dry the hands and arms with a bit of old, soft linen, sprinkle with tal .cum powder and give a final dry mas sage for three or four minutes. A touch of violet water in the palms of the hand and your treatment is com pleted. Since the massage softens the cuticle about the nail, a manicure should fol low. -The nails are then in perfect condition for attention. If you are in the habit 6f taking care of your nails yourself, file them before the treat ment: otherwise they will be too soft . for filing. Treat the cuticle afterward, ' loosening it with an orangewoOd stick which has been dipped first in perox ide. of hydrogen and then In powdered pumice stone. Snip off the raggedy shreds with, the pointed scissors, cleanse the nails with the orange stick, polish with your little nail polisher of chamois, and the deed is "did." Tour hands and arms will be like velvet, free of all roughness and soft .to the touch of other hands. One hand-and-arm massage a week will keep those members young. Women who are par tial Invalid will find it a happy way of -spending their time. Toung girls should be made to follow these in struction. It will mean a great deal to them when they are older. It's the woman who gets an early start in the riKht kind of pulchritude habits who stays young the longest. If the arms are sallow or brown, apnly this bleaching cream the night before the treatment: ' lanolin, two and one half ounces. Almond oil. two and one half ounce. Sulphur precipitate, two and one half ounces. Oxide of sine, one and one fourth ounce. Violet extract, two drams. - Rub the oil gradually into the sul phur and zinc until a paste is formed, then add the lanolin and perfume. . Muskrai Pelt Sale Stopped. Fremont, Ohio, April 17.- Low price prevented the annnal muskrat hide sale at Vlckery. The European war is blamed for the poor price, a it is aid to. interfere with the famou Lon don fur sale,' scheduled for June. Hirem Roberts hall was converted into a fur warehouse with 5000 pelts on display. Three thousand mora "were held n reserve by trappers, who called the sale off when 20 cents was the best price offered, which is 17 cents lower than last year. Designs for Woman Wko I Sews--Sarah Hale Hunter DESIGN FOR LAUNDRY BAG. A laundry bag in blue or brown linen with this motif embroidered in a deeper shade than the linen, or in white, will make a useful frfft. The letters should be heavily padded and worked over and over in close even stitches. The dots are solidly worked. Use mercerized cot ton Ho. 18 in white or colors. " t CROSS STITCH ALPHABET. The cross stitch letters are much used in marking towels and bu reau scarfs. They are more effective if worked in different shades of delft blue or old rose. Use mercerized cotton No. 16 and cross all stitches in the same direction. DIRECTIONS FOR TRANSFERRING. : Lay a piece of impression paper, face down, upon the material. Place the newspaper pattern in position over this, and with a hard, sharp pencil, firmly trace each line. If the material is sheer, this may be laid over the pattern, and the design drawn direct on the goods, as it will show through. When handled in this way, impression paper, qi course, will not be required. CRAFTY LITTLE CHAPEAU IS CALLED THE SUBMARINE By Margaret Mason. (Written for the United Press.) A new hat Is the submarine, A shipshape hat it is. 1 ween. Yet inconsistent it behaves It always rests above the waves. London, April 13. (By Mail to New Yosk.) Ye ho! there, my hearties.' There's a crafty little new chapeau in the port of Fashion. Though it's dubbed the submarine, it refused to be submerged and proudly rides the crests of sleek colffed head and nestles snugly atop the Marcel waves of all the smartest dressers. In Its original form it Is a close fit ting, elongated turban, of tube straw In a Bordeaux color, with an astonish ingly long cross aigrette jutting up al most perpendicularly. As the sub marine hat, like all the others of the moment, is worn rakishly tilted well down over the right eye, it brings the aigrette to a most distressing angle for unfortunate adjacent fellow be ings. Mayhap this is where it gets one of its reasons for being christened In honor of an undersea destroyer. Another new hat fancy is the pansy bonnet. Shakespeare's Ophelia said pansies were for thought, so the mod ern maid whose only and every thought is for Fashion says pansies are for hats, and there they are. Wonderfully realistic replicas they are of nature' most piquant flower and they bloom in purple profusion around tho tiny toques and turban of purple lsh taupe and tete de nigre straw, which have superceded the all black straws; for wear with street and In formal! costume. One adorable model of mauve-toned taupe Is of the tiny and elongated shape similar to the submarine. It has a soft crown of Ihe same toned satin, find banding its brimless out line are exquisite pansies shading from deepest velvety purple and wine to light lavender with an occasional little sunny yellow faced one peering out coquettlshly. Aigrettes flourish with undiminished popularity on this side of the water. What can the lives of a few birds more or less matter in countries where human; life Is at present being sacri ficed so ruthlessly. Every hat that does not bloom with pansies, sprouts aigrettes in some form or orther. No wonder the aigrettes are usually "cross." ; The extremenly inadequate evening gowns have been appropriately christ ened "spy" gown. After all, there ia something in a name. In this case much more than Is in the dress. The three tiered skirts that are also the whim of the moment are called "The Allies,";' and some even go so far as to show a tiny embroidered flag of the three nations on each embroidered on a tier. There is really a touch of em broidery on .almost everything and designs of colored bead work are also having their ornate effect on many of the newest model frocks. Beaded bags are playing a return date, but this sea son they re made of larger wooden beads in neutral tint of gray, taupe or black and white. Perhaps ander the : head of head? would come the earrings how dangling from some of our very best ears. They are simply a sphere of clouded amber swinging: from the aural appendage by slender golden chain. Of course. other semi-precious stones are used to form the spheres, and different color schemes are obtained with balls of jade, lapis lazuli and jet or crystal. It is the yellow touch of the amber, however, that holds the most ears in its fetching sway. To show your heels is a sign of bra vado these days, since to be well heeled is to be heeled in brightest hues. Red heels, green heels, white heels and sil ver heels add bright flashes of color under the full abbreviate skirts." It would seem as if an ordinary plain black heel wer thlno- tn i -' ' uaoiBcu. bilver sandals with a strap across the insipp, zasiening with a glistening buckle of precious stones to match the costume, are mnttt ulluriio wear. They are especially fascinating wnen ine more conventional buckle is replaced by a scintillating dragon fly or flower poised airily on a hidden spring, gleams and trembles enchant ingly with the least tripping of the iigut iantasiie. Indeed, It would take a colorsmith. not a blacksmith, to show all the racy little fillies on the track of fashion this spring and summer season of 1915. COTTON SEED FLOUR Dallas. Texas, April 17. Wouldn't 'it make you feel good to read that they have Invented a substitute for flour? A "better than flour"- substitute? And wouldn't you think at ence of the high cost of living getting a severe Jolt In these days when, the price of bread is increasing? Well, a substitute for flour has been invented. It is cotton seed flour. But it's no cheaper than flour; In fact, just now it twice as expensive. You I may now hav rnttnn m.j v.i-.. i, cotton seed bread, and cotton seed rolls. There's no limit to the use of the new flour that doesn't apply as well to ordinary flour. But the cotton seed kind is most expensive. A dozen rolls made 'from the new flour costs 20 cents her tods v. The manufacturers of the . cotton seed stuff predict that when the proc ess is better developed the new flour may be cheaper than ordinary flour. Not so many years back the cotton seed was considered of little or no value. It was left In great stacks In the fields and used as fertiliser. Then a series of remarkable discoveries added millions to the value of eaca cotton crop, by developing new uses for the cotton seed. It is now made into meal and hulls for livestock, oi for cooking and flour for baking, as well as leaving something for fertili ser. The oil has numerous uses, even appearing in adulteration of Ice cream. Amusirg Place C.ids. If you have photograph of friends whom you wish to entertain at lunch eon' or dinner, cut out' the photo graphed . heads and paste j them on bodies, cut -from magazines or other pictures. Very amusing results can be obtained in this way. Mount these composite people, with your friends' heads, .on little cards, i and label each with the name of the person to whom the head belongs. ' Small snap shot photographs are the best for this purpose. . - - ( SUGGESTIONS By Mme. Qui Vive. i Cold erelms and skin foods will not make an oily skin oilier. They supply a different kind of oil' than that which is secreted by the sweat glands. They will cut and clear away these secre tions. Enlarged pores is the most stubborn of all beauty ills. 1fo cor rect such a condition Is to change the texture of- the skin, Fhlch cannot be accomplished quickly or easily. Never use warm water on the face except at bedtime. Bathe the ; face with cold water every morning1' followed with applications of astringent wash. Be fore breakfast every morning take the j? ice of half a lemon In half 'a glass or water, with a pinch Of salt added. False hair wear out like everything else hats or shoes or bonnets. Why not? The life of. a switch is from two to three years. Without the natural -nutriment the hair has no supply of coloring pigment, therefore It' fades. One will find it a difficult matter to dye the switch. The :cleverest people in the trade cannot guarantee the work. It is not easy to match hair even'when one has quantities of shade from which to chose. iAs for throwing a switch into a pot of dye Eureka! the best one can do is to hope? At the age of 20 a girl who meas ures 5 feet 4 inches should weigh. ISO pounds. There is nearly always a little gain a a woman grows older. The average weight of a woman is said to be 13S pounds and the average height S feet 4 inches. The average male height is three inches more than Cross Stitck Alphabet i FOR HEALTH that of the female. To reduce flesh one must live on a selected diet, omit ting bread, butter, potatoes, cream and sweets, and must burn up fat cells by vigorous exercise out of door. The woman who wear very tight stays causes the muscles of the abdomen and hips to become lasy and flaccid, and fat accumulates there a a matter of course. I Savages who go bareheaded do not suffer from baldness, and the tamo immunity to early falling of the hair is said to be the good fortune of the lads of the ''Blue Coat School" in Lon don. These boys never wear any hats, no matter how severe the weather, nor how low In its mind the thermometer may be. Don't wear a hat all day; the hbit will prevent venttllatlon of the hair and will restrict circulation. Nothing but a rlp-roarlng, rousing old bath spray will remove soapsuds frem very fine, silky hair. Almond paste is not as desirable as almond meal, followed by applications f cold cream or skin food. There I no reason why you should be afraid to nse powder. A good powder is a pro tection to the skin. Certainly a shiny, oily complexion is anything but at tractive, and one really feels cleaner and fresher for a fluff of power on the face and neck. Purchase any good brand; proprietary powder are better than those which may be made at home, for the very good reason that certain professional appliances are necessary to reduce the ingredients to delicacy of; texture. v - 1A simple witch hazel cream which can be used a a cleansing cream AND BEAUTY while traveling is made by melting together nine ounces of white petrola tum, one and one half ounces of white wax and one and one half ounce of white spermacettl. Allow to cool somewhat, add : three ounces of dis tilled witch hazel and fluff to a froth with an egg breater, pouring Into small jars just before the mixture become very firm. Any prefume may be added with the witch base.. The woman who never use creams and the one who never uses soap and water are both making mistakes. The best method 1 warm water and pure soap at bedtime, followed by a gentle mas sage with a skin food or cream. This should be permitted to remain on the surface of the skin over night. San Diego Fair to Get Noted Educator Sr. Karl sSoatorl Will Explain Rer Work Among : Children ta Tarloas rarts of World. Ban Diego, Cat. April 17. Dr. Maria Montessori, world, famous a an edu cator, I to spend a good part of July at the San Ditgo exposition, teaching the visitors to the exposition of her work among- the children, now in vogue in many countries. This is a feature of the educational work being carried on by one division of the ex position. The last week has witnessed the holding of teachers' institute at the exposition grounds, and similar educational conference are scheduled for later periods of the year. .v Women in tne ArVeeks News What They Have Been Doing Tokio, Japan i-A long and bitter fight by an American society woman to regain possession - of her beautiful daughter, who had : been kidnapped from Boston and taken to Japan by the child' father, will end in the court of Japan. On Saturday a hear ing was given the petition of Mrs. John Ellis, of Boston, for possession of her 7-year-old daughter,' Olga, now in custody of her fathe John Ellis. Some years ago the EM family came into the American limelight. Ellis, who had been a telegraph operator,- a stock broker and a minister, was sued by hi wife for possession of their little daughter. The court awarded the girl i to the mother. Sud denly leaving his ' parish and his friends, Kill seised the little girl and brought her to 1 Japan. The mother traced them to Tokio, and when she tried to get possession of her daughter the police Interfered. Mrs. Ellis in her court petition bases her allegation on the decision of the Massachusetts courts, which gave her the child. Washington i Whether the United States law of 1907 which expatriates American women who marry foreign ers spplle in her Case, is being tested by Mrs. Ethel C Mackensle, of Ban Francisco, In the; supreme court. ' She was denied the right, to. vote on the the ground that she had lost her Amer ican cltisenshlp by marrying the sub ject of Great Britain living In Cali fornia. Her argument 1 that congress cannot, merely because she has entered-into marriage, take away her clt isenshlp a long a she remains in the United States. She argues that hus band and wife ran no -longer be con sidered as politically one, with their Identity merged into one, and that the husband's. .j . San Franclacc "Teddy" is not the only one who change the .atlas with hi discoveries. Mrs. Julia W. Hen shaw, of Vancouver, now lecturing here, hadj added a range of mountain,' a lake, a couple j of canyon and a stream which she declares i not a 'river of doubt," j to the map of Can ada. Incidentally she is said to be the only feminine Fellow of the Royal Geographical Society. Her ' love of flowers, forest and stream and the out-of-door generally ha led her into strange region. I Washington The congress of the Daughters of the American Revolution, which convene her Monday, will lack none of the traditional thrill. For the contest for the presidency ha It usual keenness, two separate factions back ing Mrs. 'William Cummlng Story, of New York' the incumbent, and Mrs. George T. Guernsey, of Kansas. Mrs. Story' campaign! for reelection i based on the courtesy of a second term, while Mrs. Guernsey's friends point out that Mrs. Story I herself entered the lists against a first ; term president general some years ago. London That j the English and French women will ignore the Women' Peace Congress which assembles at The Hague on April 28. under the lea dership" of Jane Addams of Chic&go, is indicated by the , attitude of Mrs. Emmeline Pankhurst and other euff frage leaders. "Mrs. Pankhurst make the claim that the congress was in spired by, pro-German interest. Whether thv French and German women wilF recede from this view and join the congress, at the request of the American women, is still in doubt. ' Seattle, Wash. Called to the pulpit which her son recently vacated, to ac cept charge, of a church. in California, Mrs. W. T. D.McCuI lough, Seattle's first feminine member of the minis terial federation, j has been officially installed as pastor of the Second Bap tist church. At her opening service she baptised six candidates. Mrs. McCul jough formerly lived In New York. Ann Arbor, Mich. Mi's Frances Hickok of Plalnwell. Mich., will repre sent the University of Michigan In the Northern Oratorical league contest at Iowa City, on May 7. She Is the first woman chosen to ! represent the Uni versity of Michigan in a .contest of this sort. The oration that won this honor was entitled "The Mission of the New Womanhood." ;; Boston, Mass. Countess de Pier refeu of , France, formerly Mis Else Tudor of Boston, who has been resting in New Hampshire, sailed from New York on Saturday to take up her work again a a war nurse. Last 'August when the ; war broke out, the count gave up a position with the United States Steel corporation, and with his wife, went to the front. The countess was assigned to aj hospital at Dinard. " . v. i . ' Children's diseases especially tho - which are contagious flourish pecu liarly during the early spring months and It behooves every motfier I ' watch her children carefully, for V'.a first symptoms of measles, whooph: ' cough, chlckenpox, etc. - ; It Is not easy to guard gainst th afflictions, for they are moat-'cat f il ing" in their early stage even befot the physician is able to diagnose them with certainty. If greater care were exercised ty mothers and teachers, however, murft could be done to curtail the spread of such diseases. Watch the children carefully for signs of a cold or any slight Ulnes. and at the first sc: plcion keep them from school, IsoUtj them from other children,, and sni for a doctor. Measles begins with a. running at the nose like an ordinary cold in the head, and whooping couj ' begin with a cough that often 1 mis taken for a mere cold a the whof may not develop for several day. It la wise, therefore, to be auspicious of the slightest appearance of a aprtr. cold. An old fashioned ideev how practi cally obsolete was that a child should be allowed to tike the -minor chil dren's disease and "have them over with, the argument being that they were "lighter" with children than wlti adults or near adults. This, of course, was based on the assumption that everyone, sooner or laterj must have chlckenpox, measles, etc.. and that, having had them, the victim became Immune. Both theories are fallacious. None of these diseases Is Inevitable, and It.has been demonstrated also that It Is possible to have all of them twice If a person be twice exposed. But the vanity "of allowing children to contract these diseases when It Is possible to avoid contagion Is not tlis .hlef argument against that absurd old notion. The advance of science has shown that children's diseases are really serious. They should receive prompt attention and careful nurslns. and the quarantine should be rigidly enforced to guard against an epi demic, i . With Infant especially the utmost preventive caution should, be observed, as whooping cough and measles are very dangerous to babies. The bulletin Issued by the New York state health department notes that there are more deaths In the Empire state from measles than from typhoid. So keep these facts In mind, and watch your children during the spring months, i - After a few weeks, she was :iade head nurse of the hospital. Her brief stay at Hancock, N. II.. with her children, has greatly revived her, and h 1 eager to be once more at the: front. Boston, Mass. Miss Alda Miner of Maiden, Mass., who is now Mrs.. Walk er, is traveling by dog sled to her new home in Russia. She Journeyed lm to Liverpool, where she was married to Walker, who was a childhood friend In this city. Walker Is a geologist In Russia, and the home he built is in tne Ural mountains. Their trip took them through Norway and Sweden, and aftr leaving the train at the end of the rail road, they took to the dog sleds. Washington, V. C. One of the early spring engagement of Interest Is that of Miss Alexandra Ewlng. daughter of ' Commissioner of rnrents and Mr. Thomas Ewlng. to Newbold Neye. a prominent newspaper man of this city. It is expected that the wedding will take place during the summer. New Orleans. Ia. Mrs. Paul Breaux, of Thlbodaulx, La., is ther old est mother In the south. She has reached 110, and her descendant number over 1000. She married when she was 13 and hopes to celebrate Jrfi centenary of tbs wedding. ; On of her children is over S0, years of age. Washington Mrs. Ernest V. Biok nell, wife of the. national director of the American Red Cross, hs satled for Genoa from New York. Her hus band, who Is Investigating conditions in the war sons for the Rockefeller Foundation, will meet Mrs. ; Hieknell and their two daughters at Genoa, Mrs. Blcknell was Identified with Mrs. Woodrow Wilson and Mrs. Archibald Hpklns In the campaign WVonver the alleys' of Washington Into minor afreets. . j ' -New York Miss Minnie B. Peck 1 In -training for' another mountain-climb Ing trip to South America. Her train ing consists of living , on - 25 ctnt x day. She cooks her own meals. Pea nut butter, rye bread, chocolate, om. lets and spinach are her regular fare. She Is one of the greatest mountain climbers of the world. SALTS IF KIDNEYS OR BLADDER HURTS Harmlets to flush Kidneys and neu - 1 i !,-? .fiAm CntM uiu i or system. j:j m m. Kidney and Bladder weakness e-esult from uric acid, say a noted authority. The kidney filter this acid from the blood and pas It on to the bladder, where It often remains to Irritate and Inflame, causing- a burning, : scalding sensation, or setting up an Irritation at the neck of the bladder. ; obliging you to seek relief two or three times during the night. The sufferer Is in constant dread, the water passe some time' with a scalding sensation and Is very profuse; again, there Is difficulty In avoiding It. Bladder weakness, most folk call It, because they can't control urination. While it I extremely annoying and sometimes very painful, thi 1 really one of the most simple 'ailment to overcome. Get about four ounce of Jad 8a h from your pharmacist an l take a tablespoonful In a glass of wa ter before breakfast, continue this for two or three days. This will neutral ise the acids in the urine so It no longer a source of irritation to the bladder and urinary organs which then act normally again. - Jad Salt is inexpensive, harmless and is made from the acid of grape and lemon Juice, combined with ilthia, and used by thousand of folk who are subject to urinary disorder cause! by uric acid Irritation. Jad i Salts la splendid for kidney and reuses no baa effects whatever. 1 , Here you have a pleasant, efTerve cent lithla-water drink, which quickl relieves bladder trouble. - (Adv.)