4. r
TRIP ON UPPER
Grfiat Stream' Abounds in N 1
to Days Long (fojief lfj;' v "'J'v'' f "''r 'c ' '
By Marshall N. Dana.
OST of the First Things have
been done. Time has ticked off
the years in which pioneer
events have setting. Trails are
' beaten, Few there are who do
rut
follow where others have gone, ami
oh If rarely can the phrase,. "For the
Jrsjt time in history" honestly be used.
II Lewis and Clark won a way across
tlhe j wilderness seeking' and finding a
western empire. Captain Robert , Gray
forded the Columbia over the menacing
bar of an unknown stream, and thus
discovered and gave a name to the
glrejit river of the west. .
j A passing generation first charted
jud navigated the Columbia and Its
Brlbiutaries. Others found the gold and
ilver of the gravel bars and ledges,
(while a more permanent type built the
Sailroads, surveyed the lands." fenced
he ranches and initiated cultivation.
Ojne significant First Thing at least
ttemains to us. The completed Celllo
$anal will be dedicated and opened to
onmerce May 6. For the "first time
In history a fleet of river vesselS will
make uninterrupted run' from Lewls-
Ionj Idaho, 600 miles inland, to As
orla and the Pacific ocean.
The we&jk of May 3-8 will be required
or I the spectacular journey, including
programs at Celilo and the river cities
en route. It will be ah occasion we will
be jsroud, to remember participation in.
It is the conoummation of a century's
expectation. It is the signal for the
beginning of a new northwest commer
cial era.
But, of most immediate interest, it
vll be a delightful, trip. The scenery
Is of a kind and variety only to be
lound on the Columbia and Snake riv
ers! , Almost every point has hlstorio
naahriaHnn.
t The deeds and events of : the past
Jtvil) call out. from the shores and the
rapids.
rjemlnlacence will speak to the voy
igejurs with voices long hushed about
the! men of a generation now dead. j
he present will be a turning point!
rrom a courageous past to a' broader
futures
Let aus in infaglnation move down the
rlvfer with the fleet. Let us see Just a
feir of the places that will claim the
excursion's interest.
The? Lewlston prorgram of May 3, let
us .imagine to have- been successfully
completed. The street parade deplet
ing In fan5iful pageantry thtf history
of the Columbia from its discovery in
17J3 until the present has received the
chters of the crowds gathered: from
m(ny miles about the Idaho city. It
hajs been a good program, an Inspiring
inaugural of -the week of celebration.
jJow the fleet moves down river;
fRfntlly the cheering of the crowds on
Mhpre can still be heard; the white
handkerchiefs flutter -a farewell and
iicjdspeed. -
.j Zrom. Zwlston to the Columbia.
From ILcwiston to the confluence of
the Columbia and Snake at Ainsworth
iisja run of 13? miles on the tawney wa
ters of the lesser stream. From Lew
lston to Rlparla Is a stretch of river
.73; miles long, safe for navigation by
day or night. But from Riparia to
Ainsworth 'are 64 miles of rapids that
require good pilotage and daylight.-
jThe northern shore is bordered by
the Camas Prairie railroad; the high
banks risa precipitous on the south.
("What kind of country lies beyond
those steep banks?"
"As , good, wheat land and as fine
peach orchards as you can find out of
doors," an'swersi-Frank J. Smith, whose
long -experience! on the Columbia has
made him a veritable storehouse of
facts and reminiscences.
"But" bewilderedly "how In the
world do they get their crops to mar
ket? I hadn't heard of any aeroplane
cijrcuit in this vicinity."
"The farmers reach boats and trains
not by , aeroplanes, but by the next
thing to them aerials," Captain Smith
continues. "They stretch strong steel
cables from the high cliffs to boat
landings and stations opposite. They
suspend platforms from the cables and
load them to full capacity, then ease
them down by means, of a checkback.
By a switching system the loaded
sling, platform, or car whatever you
desire to C4.I1 It-f-brings the empty one
back to the top of the bank. ,
'"In some cases, when only a single
jljne Is used, the return trip Is accom
jpSished by means of a windlass or span
of horses. , j
"Thousands of tons of cereals and
hay and many carloads of fruit are ah
rtually handled by this, the farmers
only method of reaching the transpor
tation lines."
I "Never knew before how high farm
ers can get above ordinary consumers,''
some one exclaims, and the trip con
tinues. '
Thirty-five to 40 landings scatter
along the valley of the Snake. Some
!f them have their place in history
jplaces where parties seeking, gold
1 landed, where adventurous explorers,
half famished and dependent on In
dians of questionable friendliness for
food, made difficult fords. All about Is
the tradition and memory of the Lewis
and Clark trail.
I "What is of more immediate interest
to business, some of the towns along
rthe shore already have relative com
mercial Importance in grain -exporta-tien.
f .Here and there are sites of ancient
missions and old government forts that
tell of Indian uprising s which occurred
onr before the days of the fearsome
jf'flre canoe, the river steamer. ; .
jr were s warces oar, ana captain
j Smith is saying: ."This Is a place that
hwlll never be forgotten by river men.
jThe Annie Faxon was passing one day,
! August 14. 1893, -was the date, forging
! f ill steam ahead. Suddenly there was
Itfl baendon.. Time has ticked off , . 3 , . sy- - 4, ' v , VX 1 li " - Wf,- M:., ' f ' -,Ti
I II year, in which pioneer ft ! r I II -5, tf?!? i ' T '' ',- : 1-
events have setting. Trails are , , , ;Sar,; , ,T15- ' 'jH If rn --4wfcT .v? V . Ill T"- f A" A -V , - I '. i f '
first time in history" honestly be used. f 1 ,s s . nTT I I f ' '' s mnaU.i. ZT r in . i " 1 X-Tf i -s i 1
' ' .sJjSw '. K ! ,-: ?' .' -;' -.'' " ! I famous Island in the Mlsslsslp(l. J
Scenes along the upper Columbia and Snake rivers at present and in days gone. Top, left to right j
The Umatilla in the John Day rapids of the Columbia; the Umatilla and the Asotin on the Colum-T
biaS section - of canyon wall that lines Snake river. Bottom, left to right Snake river rapids, 901
miles ljeyond Lewiston; the Annie Faxon photographed in 1887 at Lewlston before her destruc-!
tion years ago. (Photograph by courtesy of E. W. Wright.) i
a tremendous Explosion, the steamer's
boilers had burst. : Eight of her pas
sengers aid prew were killed."
Texas City, which we presently
reach, has a fame possessed by no oth
er city on toe river. It had the first
saloon, also a postoffice, and it was
long known as the ferry crossing for
the Spokane and Colfax trade. '
At Riparia the O-W. R. & N., Spo
kane route, crosses the river and a
draw opens, ito let the boats through.
To this point) the products of the lands
along the rivler are -brought' to the rail
line by the steamers Lewlston and
Spokane, both giving excellent service.
Then Texas rapids, and just below is
Grange Cltyj whose founders believed1
it would grow to be a western metropT
olis. At thi point empties the historic
stream, Tu-tannon, debouching through
a canyon with cliffs 300 feet high. Fort
Taylor was ibuilt at the mouth of Tu
cannon, and named in iionor of Captain
O. H, P. Taylor, who was killed in the
battle with the Indians May 17. 1858.
Tu-cannon itself is said to have re
ceived its name from the fact that two
cannons wefe originallyq placed at lta
mouth. A reservation-of 640 acres was
made for the fort, a flat boat ferry in
stalled, and every preparation made
for permanent fortification.
Below Tufcanhon the Snake is a suc
cession of Irapids. "Palouse, Rattle
snake flat. Pine Tree and Anchor can
yon have tajten their toll not only from
the intrepid jnavigatcrs of batteaux and
sailing schooners, but from steamboats
as. well,'' Captain Smith explains.
Now, however, the danger is min
imized, for! the government boats,
blasting out obstructions, dynamiting
rocks, cutting through bars, have
made wonderful improvements which
the representatives of the government
engineer department hope ,to Increase.
And yet, as iwe see, the Snake through
the rapids furnishes an up hill climb
and a downlhill dash that will only be
overcome by the series of locks and
dams that the future will provide, not
only for aid to navigation, but to gen
erate hydrof-eJectrlc energy for light,
power and reclamation. But et us lis
ten to our guide again:,
"Just belnjw Orange City the Palouse
river empties from the north. In early
days this was an important shipping
point for tEie whole' Palouse country.
Boats have taken their entire capacity
to this old landing for distribution to
the government posts and mining sec
tions of the interior when Spokane, the
Queen City bf the-Inland Kmpire, was
known only jas the falls of the Spokane
river," - j ":
The Snake broadens. Now and again
productive Islands appear. Ainsworth,
the ancient! landing of the earliest
steamboat days, is reached, and this Is
the point where the Snake empties tnte
the Columbia. Ainsworth was named
in honor of I Captain Ainsworth, father
of John C. Ainsworth, president of the
United States National bank of. Port
land." It was-long a distributing point
for a great inland area.
i How Come the Twin Cities.
On -the Columbia, two miles above
the mouth of ! the Snake, are situated
the "Twin jCi ties of the Inland Em
pire," Pasccj and Kennewick. At this
point the I Northern Pacific bridge
spans the Columbia. Pasco was found
ed when the Northern Pacific was built
to Tacoma. For many years it was a
division point with a few side tracks, a
roundhouse, j a few stores and a num
ber of saloons. Some enterprising men
came, saw the possibilities, and sound
ed a slogan "Keep Tour Eye on Pas
co." Todayj we find one of the most
substantial titles of the upper Colum
bia. The people call it the "Seaport ofi
Franklin County Over 30 trains
pass : through!: the town daily. It is
hard ' to believe that once the site of
Pasco was la dreary waste of sand
called "Hell's Half Acre."
Kennewick, across the river, in Ben
ton county, was likewise once a dreary
waste of sage brush and sand. " An irri
gation project transformed the district
into a garden spot. The coyotes, sage
hens and Jaick rabbits have given way
to domestic livestock and the , sage
brush to fine farm products. The first
wooden village has been succeeded by
brick structures. 1 The crooked trails
have been straightened and broadened
Into well appearing streets. Kenne
wick, like j Pasco, has a municipal
COLUMBIA IS REPLETE WITH HISTORIC INTEREST
wharf, and boasts of adequate railroad
facilities. From either city can be seen
three railroad bridges crossing the Co
lumbia and Snake.
The Paco and Kennewick celebra
tion of the Celilo canal opening and the
welcome to the fleet is jointly 'ar
ranged. Here the program features for
MAZAMAS FIND MORE BEAUITY
, ' , 'x' , " I J ' v f
k W r lift- ;1 r :. rrx
tig'? Y 1 n w " 1 $ '- - 'iM'- vo-i: ,A,,VHf: 44 '
Recent Excursion " to Tilla
mook , Head and Vicinity
Replete With Interest,
. By Dan Curtis freeman.
. If you would ' ksow Oregon you
should qualify for membership in .the
Masamas. , These' intrepid nature
lovers have beaten the trails to the
best as well as to the least known
beauty spots of the state and of the
Pacific northwest and for this much
is due them. It is certainly not too
much ;to say that through no other
medium would popular knowledge and
appreciation of the manifold scenic
attractions of the northwest be dissem
inated. Many are the successful exploration
jaunts that have been conducted by
roaming devotees of the alpenstock
to the region of snow peaks, canyon,
cave, lake and seacoast and the inti
mate : information thus obtained has
added immeasurably - to 'what we
know about the geography of our own
section, . The gamut of all of nature's
moods is revealed In the organised .pil
grimages into the wilderness and none
knows them better than the Masamas.
Oregon has been endowed with such
wealth of natural , attractions that,
year, after year; the organization con
tinues to "discover"' points of interest
and will continue to do mo, doubtless,
without exhausting ? thi particular
field of endeavor. .4 .
High points of Oregon topography
are on the waiting list to be. officially
visited and besides the' annual mid
summer hegira to the cool shrine of
May 4 are the allegorical ceremonial,
"The Wedding of the Snake and 'ithe
Columbia,' the morning . parade, l-the.
welcome by the governor of Oregon
Homilee Rapids, not far below 'jthe
mouth of the Snake, was named, for, an
old Indian chief, . who was always a
friend and all of the whites. In the
I 1 A , t , ? , r-T . ., ,iiir-"-- " AJf 7, 11
11 :-
With the Mazamas oa ibeir Washington's Birthday n.ke along the Oregon coast. Top, left 10 right
. On Hug Point Trail; Halt for lunch on Indian Beach on the south side of Tillamook Head.
Bottom Tillamook Rock lighthouse. - .
some of the mountains, the popularity
of association with the pedestrians is
Indicated In the interest in the week
ly local walks around Portland. ! j
i Thereafter by : an endless chain ; of
pleasant personal - reminiscence j the
word Is passed along to "see Oregon
scenery first." And to this might be
vicinity are the villages of Finley, Two
Rivers, Hover and Attalia. and passing
them we come to Wallula.
I To eyes that saw this place years
ago it is past recognition. Once it was
the great Hudson's Bay post ef the in
terior. Seven hundred or 800 people
lived there. We still see the embank
ments thrown thrown op by the
honorable, the Hudson's Bay com
pany when erecting the fort and
trading post. In those early days the
entire imports and exports of a vast
territory were handled on the saqdy
shores at Wallula and then across
Country by pack trains, which, to an
extent, were supplanted by Dr. D. S.
Baker when he built his wooden track
SPOTS IN OREGON SCENERY
added, "If you see Oregon scenery
first you may know how to value
scenery elsewhere." Most of us'iwb.6
live amidst the rare beauties of i na
ture are prone to overlook that whicn
Is nearest unless -prompted by the in-,
fluence of the -Mszamaa. - i i
Forbidding old Tillamook head is
railroad 31 miles to Walla Walla.
Walla Walla chooses to welcome the
fleet at the old Fort .Wallula, whose
population has dwindled so that It In
cludes only the ferryman and his
family. ' -
." Hear the exclamations of wonder
and surprise. -The fleet has 'entered
Wallala Gap. The highlands close In
from either side. The river narrows-,
the current becomes swifter. On the
cliffs are color tones indescribable.
Away up, hundreds of feet and beyond
reach, are natural caves. The Indians
who survive say that iif one could but
climb tp the caves splendid specimens
of arrow heads would be found. Once,
they continue, a spirit lived in the
one of the nearby familiar . heights
that is known and yet unknown. The
view of the promontory is stamped in
delibly upon the memory of - many
thousands of summer colonists'- who
nave played along the sands of Clat
sop Beach and Cannon Beach.
Of the vast ' numbers who have
caves,' who was only appeased when
the strongest young men of the tribes
bent their mightiest bows and sent
their . best arrows whisslng - into the'
caves and out of sight. Legend also
says that the cavek were peopled with
"little devils," who warred among
themselves, and sometimes had to bor
row the Indian arrows to continue
their fights. . . j
And'still others of a mors practical
turn say these fanciful tales are told
merely to tempt- the curio hunter to
take his life into his hands by endeav
oring to scale the steep walls to the
cave 'entrances. '-.':-.' ) -
' One of the most beautiful views In
the world .is presented when the sun,
setting- in the distant Pacific, throws
its last rays. Intensified by shadows,
against the 1 walls of Wallula ' Gap.
Fantastic formations of nature are en
countered near Hudson's Bay Island,
Three Sisters and Hat Rock. . Then we
dash through Umatilla rapids and
reach Umatilla. '; .
Umatllla'e Welcome Adeqaate.
Umatilla, county gives the fleet
welcome at the long established river
port, the town of Umatilla. Pendleton,
Stanfleld, Herrhiston and a dosen other
communities are represented In the
elaborate program. As the arrival is at
evening, after darkness has come, the
street is brilliantly Illuminated with
cluster lights from river'sedge to lty
Aa long ago as 1864 Umatilla was the
metropolis of eastern Oregon, possess
ing then a population of 2000 and con
stituting j an important distributing
looked upon ' the forested flanks of
the Head, often with a halo of fog
around It, how very few have ever felt
Impelled to ascend to Its summit and
explore its recesses? j
Of-course, before th e present spl en
dld highway was constructed from
Seaside along the ' . Necanicum and
through the pass to E1K Creek.- and
made an alluring route for motor and
tally-ho jaunts, pioneer beach resort
ers either through necessity or choice,
followed the trail' over the Head and
along the beach.
- Old Trail Hearty Closed. ' j
Visitors to the beach resorts have
climbed the trail , from Seaside to the
first summit, from which a clear view
out to the lighthouse and superb ex
panse of the Pacific may bebtalned,
but the blder trail along thef hackbene
f the mountains- ' out to ; Hartley's
Point, or Bald Hill, thence down it
steep slopes to. Indian. Creek, pnto In
dian Beach and from thence along the
fantastic rugged surf to Kcola and
Klk Creek this few knew anything
SbOUt, .-r-".' ;-;--.;'.' .s-:
-. Proof of the statement was ascer
tained by the Mazamas who explored
the territory several weeks ago. The bid
trail was densely .overgrown in many
places and dead fall, new growth of
Salal bushes, fern brake and under
growth' made the. path somewhat diffi
cult to find and strenuous' enough I to
follow for a r one-day hike. The laby
rlnthlan windings of the path down the
south side of the Head, Indicate long
disuse. ". - i v'-
t - .. xikers" Get Good Tiiw. ;
- The way- of the Masama column on
the Washington Birthday expedition
across Tillamook Head led from Sea
side along the beach, past the site of
the old Holladay property and from.
thence Into the forest so dense that
both sight and sound of the thunder
ing waves at the base of the Head
were shut out. . ' - ' . I ;
- Three hours and twenty-five minutes
of steady marching .brought the hik
ers to the first outlook above an al
most perpendicular sfope of several
hundred feet into the foaming surf.
Back tracking from this point a hunr
dred yards the line plunged through
the brush, following an old and j all
but obliterated trail, now skirting the
very" edge , of cliffs looking out to
sea, then dropping back Into coves
and hugging the sides of canyon
to Bartley's Point, pioneer landmark.
. 7.014 CaWag Oaly Blgas. j
' The ruins of a couple of homestead
er's cabins were the 'only Indications
seen along - this part of - the trip of
former civilization In the grand prim
eval forest. .Evidences were seen in
the shattered wrecks ' of the tallest
and largest tree on the crest of the
mountain of the fury of the tempests
thar intermittently assail the Head.
Bartley's Hill is the nearest point
of the mainland to the Tillamook Hock
beacon, and although there was a com
paratlvely calm sea the breakers ragd
around the, rock portending the squall
which, later. In the afternoon, broke
from the southwest -and' supplied a
sensational, surf display, spoiled scenes
for the kodakers and gave the neo-
point for eastern Oregon and western
Idaho.' Every day was steamboat day,
for vessels plied constantly between
Umatilla end Portland. ; n -
Low country is encouotered (.after
leaving Umatilla. Irrlgon, famoU" or
Its irrigation project, Blalock Island.,
one of the finest reclaimed faim; ar.eux
to be tonnd. are passed. and so- la
Canoe Encampment rapld'a. Sevrsl
years ago the place was railed Stlirhur
Springs, Some "wildcatters" di filled
tor oil and struck a mineral sp(iini
with a copious flow3 of water heated to
70 degrees, which a farmer now ftses
successfully for irrigation purposes.
This Is the only Irrigation project of
its klhd In the world. Now, let's lUten
to Captain Smith again: fj
' "Opposite Heppner Junction i isj sn
island called Number Ten, aflenl the
famous island in the Mississippi.
"In the early '60s the Indians had a
village on the upper, end of the.-isjand.
and when a boat passed they: tjrouid
congregate on the bank with theif war
paint and feathers and make ! h??til9
demonstrations beneath a largn rd
flag with a white horse emblem tjn the
center. . 31- !
"For hundreds of years the Wand
has been the burial place of the: dead
of the Slmcoe and Yakima Indians. A
large memalooae or eepulcher occupied
a prominent position facing the Hver.
Though 20 feet highland coveriKg an
acre of ground, it has withstood th
ravages of time. It Is compound of
split timbers, varying from six fhchl
in width to a foot, so compactly placed
that coyotes cannot gain entrance.
Hundreds of akcletons remain fhtaet,
and the floor is covered with counties
bones. Many scaffolds." covered with
bones, remain' standing 10 or 1$ feet
above the ground. 1 j ..;-
"Hw is a field for the arcfia(filnglt
;and the curio hunter. preclou trin
kets, eUc '"teeth, arrow heads. bof, ar
rows and old-fashioned fire arms are
found in- profusion in the walls 3f th
memaloose, but they will probafcjiy re
main for many years,-as the s$ot 1s
jealously guarded by Indians, -wio. are
ever on the alert, and itloiilld ; a
white man venture to land on-.tMe Inl
and, he would find an Indian t his
side closely watching to sea tjist ne
disturbed nothing sacred to IMm on
this land which our 'government hs
placed under restrictions whlrb pre
vent wanton devastation." : T' ;
We will continue our dowdl river
journey next Sunday. ! Il '
phytes a fair tte of what makes up
a real Mazama expedition. ;:
From the crest of Bartley's; Point
one of the all-encompassing jt views
that reward a Mazama for the toillsomt
ascent was enjoyed. ; ij
Eyes Tized on Sea Lionel "'-j
That - wonderful beach line stretch
ing from Tillamook to Cape j-'alcoii,
with Its indentations, bays, coes and
cragged shore, the windows o$ mhite
accentuated by irregular-shape rocky
pillars presented a panorama that
elieited shouts of admiration,
body was loth to believe it-
Dropping down the benches-
Every-
of this
point the more adventurous, 0;fies 'en
ticed almost the entire party, -finally.
to come down and peer over thp pr-?j-
plce lo the seal rocks
where ver a
orted. i j
hundred sea lions dispor
When the first visitor saw ;h ;
lions they were enjoying a i sin bath
on the rocks. With a strong jwind to
landward and the Impossibility '. t
sound reaching the ailmals, j which
were fully a thousand feet j away,
simultaneously with the expl'on of
a revolver the entire colony) dartrti
into the water. Whether f rom jinstln t
Or from whatever source warning 1 w
had could not be guessed. -j j
However, as there Is a bourtfjrHjpori
their heads and expert rlflenien go
over to this wild spot ocasionally an.l
pot them, probably they are4 always
looking for danger from the oijiffa.
Southward from Hartley's I-1Jnt the
trail drops 'down to the mal! cahyo'i
at the bottom of which Indian Crex
flows out to the head of '.a, sh.oit
stretch of beach of the samte name.
Here, In a sheltered cove wlith 1 twy
streams of crystal - mountain water
gushing out on the finely, graveled
beachcamp was made for lunch. ; In
dian beach Is very seldom visited. 'ThU
strand arches behind reefs off treach
erous rocks. The place seentli to fit
most admirably into all the atoiie
you, may have read of the retreats of
smugglers and pirates. H
The surf churns around ttie blark
rocks constantly, and' when'!jthreii jJ
by a storm as was the case, on the
day of the Mazamas' visit,; the effect
1s awesome. The beach, declines sharp
ly and against It the ebb and; flow (
the angry waters carried tons jit rid. toriei
of boulders that pounded lfe the hio
beats of cattle in stampede. 'j;
. Onclog Sprays Beautlf at.. ;
It was a fascinating sight :to watch
the titanic rollers charge against Ariii
Jtock and other ledges, the wild spr.iy
dancing hundreds of feet, occasionally
being caught -up by a gust of wind that
eddied in the bay and carried the sp ay
in ; every direction.
A Mazama accepts every condition
that falls to his lot -with utmost com
placency. With . the departure ; from
Indian Creek, after lunch, anie : ltu
and rain and lowering mit cloud.
The wild play of the . surf around Kcia
Point and Bird Racjis grew wilder .and
wilder and, although the , course be
came slippery and the wind drove rafn
drops into the hikers' clothes,! the oi.lv
murmur heard was from the 'Wodaker,
(Continued on Page --Eight). .