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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (Oct. 11, 1914)
Woman in Field! I : . l'-'ii I '-( ill. ;:;& rv I 'ft ; - ;tt - v i 2feO fl " 'Jff t& , J ' M WORLD TOUR LEADS TO EUROPEAN WAR ZONE Mrs. Harriet McArthur, Re cently Returned, "Recounts Experiences Abroad, . NEWEST FANCIES IN DRESS DESIGNS By Lillian E, Young Mis Callie Hoke Smith, daughter of the. Georgia senator, is to give prizes in gold to the three school children who write the best essay on cotton. This ia another feature of the campaign to heli) cotton farmers. IF WOMEN in Europe could vot, would the present widespread war have occurred? asks Ida Hunted Harper In the Philadelphia Public Ledger, and by the more radical affragifts it is answered in the nega tive. This view should be somewhat modified. There is almost universal male suffrage in European countries, but in none of them do the voters h"ave any voice in declaring war, and in only two France and Great Britain does It rest with the elected parlia ments to go into or stay out of a war. In Austria and Germany, which began the one now raging, and In Russia, the first of the allies to enter it, the Em peror has absolute authority to plunge the nation Into war. Women, there fore, even though endowed with the force of the ballot, would have been powerless to avert it. In France It is a fight for life, and in England it would have been eventually if Bhe bad not gone to the relief of France and .Belgium. How, then, could women have dared to prevent It, even had they possessed the power? It is impossi ble' to show that the present war would not have taken place had they been voters. Terminal Market, Every city and small town In Eu rope has a system of markets, and these are, almost Invariably, operated o that they profit the city treasury as well as the producer and the con sumer. There is no reason why these sys tems should not be operated with sim ilar profit throughout the , United (States, but a good market system is the exception rather than the rule in this country. About 10 of our large cities have good and profitable mu nicipal markets, but they are seldom established in the smaller towns and villages. Adequate markets have become more than ever the need of the house wife, since the war has sent the prices up and complicated the whole Question of supply and demand. In New York, since the outbreak of the war, retail markets have been estab ' lished at the foot of the bridges, where the farmer may bring his wares and sell direct in open market to both dealers and housewises. These were introduced as a relief measure to protect the consumer from the extor tionate prices that many of the dealers - were forcing on the public, but they have proved so successful that they are ia a fair way to become perma nent There is great opportunity here for the woman who lives in a small town. If she is a good organizer, and if she can "get the cooperation of other house wives, there is no reason why she should not establish a. market system In her community. This has already been done with success by a small group of women in a New England village. It was a village that had grown popular as a summer resort. and the charges of the local dealers had become exorbitant. The open mar kct effected Immediate rellefs the charges for the stalls were very slight, and the certainty of finding buyers brought the farmers in from the sur rounding country. K K Beads Much Worn. Heads have a most tenacious hold on the modern Imagination. Is it that they hold our imagination enthralled? Is it because beads are suggestive of luxury, of splendor, that we like them? Perhaps it is a relic of our Indian predecessors but that cannot be the explanation, for Paris seems to like beads as well as we do- Hpwever, nobody seems to know whether the Indians would barter their "most prized possessions for beads because they liked the beads themselves, for their brightness and color, . or because to tbem, too, beads suggested splendor and luxury. Beaded tunics are shown on many of the new evening frocks. Sometimes the beads are sewed on net and some times they are simply strung on silk and formed 1nto4bng tunica. Beads are worn about the neck. And beads are embroidered on the neck line of chiffon and net evening frocks. t . Responsibility Pays. It is the girl who is' willing to as sume responsibilty who is promoted. She is the sort the boss wants. If you are ambitious do not be afraid to take on a responsible position if the chance 1 given you, and do not shirk any responsibility that happens along. If you say "yes" whan you are asked whether you will be responsible for such or such a business statement, if your employer feels that he can leavp you to answer certain letters because he knows you will be responsible for what you pUt into them you are the girl he will be glad to have in his office. Of course there is a- risk in assum ing this attitude. It means more work on your part, a greater knowledge of what you are doing and why you are doing it. You must understand the business you are engaged in before you can take responsibility concerning your work. And it is for these very reasons that you are of greater value to your em ployer. It is worth a good deal to him to feel that he can rely on this sense of responsibility in you. You are to some extent his partner. He can give you his confidence.' And remember this: It isn't speed as a stenographer that gets the big salary. It is your all round value to your employer. It is the girl who 4s ready to meet a sudden demand without hesitation, who- can fill a gap, even though the gap be above her, without slumping who is successful. Her employer won't let her go in a hurry; he knows how all too rare her type is. If you are determined to get ahead be that girl. Your life will be a thousand times more interesting as well aa more profitable. By Avis LobdeU. Unlike most of the Portland travel. ers whom war overtook In Europe. Mrs. Harriet McArthur not only came name when she wished and as she wished, but also brought her trunk With her. ; She, together with 1200 fellow passengers, returned on the Lusitanla, a Cunard liner which flies the British flag, and which, on the voyage, never put out her lights and docked in New York on September 18, after a voyage aa uneventful as if all the world were at peace. At the time war -was declared Mrs. McArthur was in London with Miss Genevieve Thompson, with whom she began a world tour from Ban Fran cisco on October 7 of last year. Owing to bad weather, they cut their Paris stay to little more than a few hours, and went on to ' London, where they bad been but a few days when England made known her stand on the war. "The declaration of . war came - like a bomb out of a clear sky," said Mrs. McArthur. "It was not expected and no one wanted? war. I don't think England was prepared for war. Her navy, of course, is powerful; but her army was not in the best of condition. There was no gladness in the 'English preparation. It was gone about meth odically and seriously. Soldiers were everywhere, and in thei parks and squares were groups of bank clerks, tradesmen and all conditions of men, drilling constantly. . "To the lay eye the English soldiers in their present uniforms look just like our own army men- I heard but two complaints from any of the wom en, although when they told their men good-bye many' of them said they knew they were going to be killed. One of those complaints came from an old charwoman,' who said she did not know what was going to become of the old people, with their husbands and sons taken away from them. The other was from a woman who kept a students' lodging house at Oxford. All five of her students were gone, and she wondered what was going to becotee of her, as there were no more to take their places. 'What this war is costing -England was brought home to me most signifi cantly at Oxford. One of its 30 col leges. Trinity, alone sent 60 students. I presume the other colleges furnished a like number, and that means the very flower, of England's young man hood bids fair to be cut down ' by this war. A VENT you always Bked to read about the "fra-frou" of skirts? But how was one to indulge one's hearing in that direction when la mode called only for the softest and most silent of materials, such as charmeuse, crepe . d chine, satin me teor, and. all the others that- have been with us for the past three years? Now, however, we have taffeta again as one of the most modish materials and the rustling whispers and swish of it make a great appeal after the tongue-tied silence of those other fabrics. .. . . It is the popular silk for afternoon and evening frocks, and one example of what may be dona with It in an in teresting way Is shown in to-day's sketch. Here we have a combination of white crepe de chine with black taffeta, and the design follows rather closely the picturesque dress of Spain, with its jaunty little bolero, full white blouse, and bayadere sash. The blouse is exceedingly, simple, with ruffles of self material to finish the neck and sleeve-ends. The skirt, too, t is easily made of straight breadths slightly gored and the full ness laid about the belt in small flat folds rather than gathers. The sleeveless bolero 1b bloused nto the belt except just in front, where the corners are short and trimmed with a row of flat steel buttons. A Ions overs kirt of taffeta left open in front is given three graduated tacks as & finish to the bottom, and this is good for a slim figure. The broad sash Is Interestingly drawn down over the hips into an embroidered plastron worked in yellow and old blue. This wHll make a splendid theatre fock for the winter or will be most useful for afternoon functions. Exquisite Hair Tinting A m run An attractive dress, suggested by that of Spain. jLUSH or velours are delightful "to work up into trimming schemes combined with other materials, and Incidentally the idea offers a making-over hint. The good portions of an out of date silk or cloth frock can be recut and combined with plush or velours of the same or contrasting color, say, tor instance, after the illustrated design. It seems very probable that one might find enough material In a last year's frock to make the sleeves, upper portion of .the tunic and lower por tion of the under skirt of this design, and then by using velour for the basque and deep tunic border a most attractive and modish costume may be evolved. As an example, the dress material is a light tan charmeuse, thin woolen cloth, or duvetyn. We make a long sleeved, shallow-waisted guimpe of it and finish the V-neck with an up standing ruff of white net or batiste. We use China silk or something equal ly inexpensive for the foundation skirt and complete its length from the knees in the same light material. Then we only need enough more for the top of tfae tunic The velour or plush will In this ease be in seal brown, a 14 -inch band of which borders the tunic, while a deen crushed girdle blouses In a jumper of the same," giving the effect of a basque blouBe. By referring to the sketch you will see how either side of the- top of the Jumper is cut in two broad straps that cross over the shoulders and leave a little trian gular cut over the bust, disclosing Kllnrpse of the guimpe. There is a vast amount of satisfac tion to be had in a successfully remade fock, but skill and patience are the mediums required to meet such suc cess. design that offers suggestions for remodeling. SEASON'S SMARTEST SKIRTS REACH ONLY TO THE TOPS OF THE SHOES And the Bodices Contain Little That Is Tangible Evening Gowns Are Striking." By Margaret Mason. (United Press Lms1 Wtr.) Though Susan and Sally Are not of the ballet. Their new skirts are all short. sweet: For since if s their passiom To follow the fashion, They've cut them about two small feet. btrt New York, Oct. 10. I saw an exhibi tion of imported garments at a big de partment store this week that had run the gauntlet from Paris to Havre packed in huge baskets and lashed on the back of a touring car. They seemed not the least bit the worse for the wear of war. . The most striking feature ef the War History Cause Of Row in Schools There is a new preparation on th market that is so entirely harmless and so easy to use that there is really no excuse for any woman (or man) to longer tolerate gray or atrealud hair. "Brownatone" meets and varomes every objection heretofore found to hair stains and is so pleasing in its . uniformly splendid results that it lias within a few months madj thousands of friends who could not now be in duced to use anything else. , "Brownatone" is the result of most exhaustive experiments and is abso lutely guaranteed satisfactory or money will be returned. It positively cannot be detected, will not rub off on wash off, and is harm less, and permanent in every way. Prepared in two shades one for golden or medium brown the other for dark brown or black. Also in two sixes, 25o and $1.00. A trial sixe and an Interesting book let will be sent upon receipt of ten Cents, or we will fill your orders di rect if your druggist insists upon substituting. ' Insist on "Brownatone" at your hair dresser's. 4 . Made only by the Kenton Pharmacal Co., 681 E. i Pike et, Covington, Ky. , For' sale by - They Owl Drug Co., 20 stores on the Pacific coast, (Adv.) Secretary XAne Advises Bureau of Edu cation to Adopt a "Sands Off Policy la This Regard. Washington, D. 6 Oct. 10. "Hands off is the policy of the United States bureau of education, under Secretary of the Interior Lane, regarding tlie teaching of European war history to young America, The bureau is not able to dabble in this debatable zone. leaving the field entirely to the Indi vidual judgment of educational beads in their respective jurisdictions. To suggest that war history be or not be taught or discussed would be "unneu tral,' according to tb officials of the bureau. - m ..: Superintendent Thurston, of tbe District- of Columbia school system, is holding his' ground upon this proposi tion to teach about the bis; war In the schools here this year, although a con trary stand has been taken by school heads in many other Important cities. In . Philadelphia and other cities public school authorities fear ilie . re sult of such 'an undertaking; in schools where children of many different na tionalities are pupils, and where natur ally some prejudice may exist among teachers as well as pupils. It all depends, upon the way the teachers go about It; they may be fair, impartial and neutral, if they ueaire,' says Thurston. "American , teachers can make the war a great, vehicle for widening the sympathies and enlarging me conceptions or national nfe." r (Q)W( whnlA pnllArt-inn wai tbe f&ct that each "We stayed In London two weeks RVirt W9. foff short to thi after the war declaration, and during j topg of the hIgn Bnoes. PossiWy their that time affairs went on much thi j hurried Journey, instead of making same except that all the banks . were them arrrve breathless with short closed for five days. PrOm London j -pants ,- had acted in a similar manner we went up into scouana, anu mere npon their skirts. Whatever the cause, the same war preparation was going ; COwever, the effect Is an exposure of on. All the women, nign ana low, iweli turned ankles that seems just were knitting socks for the soldiers, Dareiy ekirtinK the conventions. splendid looking fellows, and very Next to the shortness of the skirts, striking in their kilts. We were also tne most startling note la the almost in Ireland, and found the Idea of ' total iack of anything tangible in the home rule not at all popular. When bodices. Positively, they consist of we returned to London the big rush- mereiy a wisp of tulle passing over OI lounsis ior America was over ana w had no difficulty in having our let ters of credit cashed and in procuring homeward bound passage of first class." Mrs. McArthur' s first stop en her world tour was at Honolulu, whence she went into Japan and China. In the former country she was impressed with- the existing poverty and the great number of babies. "If you saw five women talking together, you could count on three of them having several children," de clared Mrs. McArthur. "It was dif ferent in China, where I saw very few babies. I found the river life of China one of Its most interesting fea tures. I was astonished to learn that there is much blindness in China, and until the Americans and English be gan taking the matter up the Chinese have never taken any care of their bnd nor their insane. Another thing that1 struck me so forcibly was the great number of graves in China. We saw thousands of them everywhere." Mrs. McArthur made a trip up the pirate infested West river on a typical Chinese boat, carrying freight and a few passengers. The boat was heav ily armed, but no difficulty was en countered. Mrs. McArthur spoke also of the 20 mile railroad from Canton to Sam-Shul as being probably the most patronised line, in the world. In Manila, the traveler said she was impressed with the government im provements in roads and schools, but it was difficult to tell whether the natives appreciated it or not. In Java, it was rice culture which drew the especial attention of Mrs. McArthur, who said it was the best she saw at any point, and far exceeded that of Japan, where the fields were often no larger than a room. The agricul tural features of the valley of the Nile were also of especial interest to her. Mrs. McArthur and Miss Thompson visited Ceylon, spent time In India and Egypt, passed one night on the Sahara desert at Lysht, toured in Italy, motored through Sicily, and many other interesting places en route. Mrs. McArthur considers tne cumax of her, world tour the morning they saw the sun rise on the Himalaya mountains and Mount Everet, the high est peak in the world, i Many requirements are filled by a new electric light base fitted with a suction cub bottom, by Which it can be attached to almost any smooth surface. each shoulder for a high girdle to cling to desperately. 9 Naturally, this is only true of the evening gowns. One of the prettiest of these Is of pale pink velvet, with a high girdle and a tunic that is long on one hip and short on the other. The underskirt is of white satin, and be tween it and the pink velvet upper tunic is an intermediary tunic of ex quisite gold embroidered net. The bodice, of course, consists mere ly of the velvet girdle supplemented by a slight drapery of the gold net and white tulle caught up on each shoul der with a small gold embroidered or nament. A charming model for a debutante Is of palest pink taffeta, with a skirt of four-corded flounces flaring out quaintly, like a veritable crinoline. A full rose nestling in the high girdle and billows of softest blush (I should think it would) pink tulle, reveals a snowy throat and perfect arms to the best advantage. Another striking evening gown of black lace over white satin has a wide piece of the black c nan till y eaught at each shoulder that falls behind straight to the floor, like a train. Another novel use of black chantflly on a black velvet gown precludes the wearer from any wild gesticulation. The lace is caught' on each side of the girdle in front, passed over the shoul ders, like a ' cape, the width of the lace being the whole length of the arms. It is sewed up into long tight sleeves, through which the arms are slipped, and then the lace keeps on its way around into tbe circular cape, and is caught in the middle of the girdle behind. Hence the wearer looks as if she -had sprouted a pair of Chan till y wings, which she undoubtedly finds very irksome when she feels her back hair needs fixing. Among the suits and afternoon frocks fur is all and everywhere. Fitch skunk and our old friend, the beaver, are the favorites. The new est collars shown on the coat suits are deep flat effects that reach from the shoulder to shoulder in the rear, without intruding in the front a little bit. They are mostly of the fur, but a few are developed in heavy silk or vel vet. Black velvet, by the way, and black satin form most of the after noon gowns, while gabardines, velvets and broadcloths compose the smartest suits. On the gowns and waistlines are perfectly long and either tight fitting or showing the loose straight line. The separate waists and blouses to the coat suits all show the high waistline. In the whole collection there fsn't a frock or a suit that doesn't have some glint of a gold ornament, a shimmer of sequins, a gleam ef jet, or the shine of a button or bead. This year all that gtltters is not gold! It's sequins, spangles and what you will, just so it gleams, glints, or glistens. GAY GARMENTS GO BEGGING IN PARIS Women's Apparel Is Sold for Song, All Except Mourn : ing Garb, STUDY SAL ESMANSH1F Clashes Given Practical Exh pefjence Behind Depart- 1 jrment' Counters.' , Phii9lelphia, Pa., Oct. It. Clrls the 'vyilUaro Penn high school Class ir salestdsAsfclp experienced the novelty, of being on "the .other side of the. countef"- in department stores recent-) the adjhbol, io girls went to, 6traw-j bridge Clothier's and It is Wana-I maker stores. -.- I At;iSStfawbride 4t Clothier's the etu-1 dents er put under the supervision! oi Harnett ox. teacher or the store r,alning school. They were 1! the. claasroom from 11 o'clock untl4 noon. ? i - "PUt jyourself in the place of the person- you are waiting on," said Miss Fox. j :Hemember how you felt when some jpaleswom-en kept you waiting, and It: will helD you to treat the ens- tomer jwitb consideration and sympa thy. ' Become thoroughly acquainted) with'yjoiir stock. .Such knowledge will give ybt confidence that la invaluable.! "Do 'Hot try to sell something your) customer does not want. Flud out what! phe Is looking tar,- and try tfl meet ' 6er demands as nearly as poa-i Bible.1! 3 Xt pays to satisfy your cus- tomef.itnd It saves time in tbe long run."i; h The 5 afternoon was spent in an ob-l servaiioa tour of the stores. Accom-1 paniea; by experienced women, the girs visltedj: jthe various departments, but did no selling. Just as soon as they have i Mastered the technical difficul ties ofl salesmanship, tbey will be put on their own resources for limited pe riods! tnd the counter. Paris, Oct 10. Borne curious effects of the war are to be noted In the price of things. If the moment were not so solemn, so filled with anxiety, for the friends of France, one would be right In counselling the young woman about to be married to hasten to Paris to pick up bargains. She could get her trousseau for nothing. The smartest Paris gowns harve never been marked down at so low a figure. Every ar ticle of woman's apparel is going for a song. If one's Women folk have 160 no spend, they come back rich in clothes. There is something to be learned in studying the shops those that remain open. To the low prices for articles of feminine wear there Is one excep tioncrepe Is going up. Mourning; a Large Stock Within." This familiar sign marks the sad side of war. There is no color lit the hats In tbe milliners establishments every one has a black bow or sombre touch. Early Shopping as ;! Mid to Employes i;iflH " " ' ' ' v Chic, IlL, Oct. is A "Do your Christinas shopping early movement with fsii double purpose was launched here !t44ay by the Consumers' League of nunods. "BuAaess everywhere Is so slack that Wei, are trying to get everybody to dot fieir Christmas buying early, to prevent: -many working girls from be ing discharged," said Miss Elsa Wir ihelm, 'secretary of the league. . "Ifiie can get people all over tne country o d their Christmas shop ping w, or at least to get started. present trade conditions will be stlm ulated jand there will be a steady flow or business until the first of the year, 'When business conditions should return i. to normal. This may save thousands of employes, particularly fv I r I SI tn ' r K a Arsrtmnt st t s m m f mf being ! discharged. Of course, it will also pffeTen overworking them later in the 'hpllday season, when the ach ing anfirfraxtled nerves of the shop girl makes Christmas anything but a time; of gladness and good wilL" PlahS: 6f the campaign include visits to heacm of department stores for their cooperation, niacins the Question be fore women's clubs, and the placing of plairus advertising the movement. How to Stop the Liquor Habit Secretly By a Specialist. That tbe liquor habit, can be treated secretly at home at. Very little expense is the claim of a well known special ist, who has treated . thousands of cases. In a recent interview he made (-the following statement Tne cost of the drugs used to treat the liquor hab- llt in the high, priced sanitariums amounts to very little. Here is a sim ple, inexpensive prescription that can be given secretly in coffee, tea., milk, water, or in the food, as it has no taste, color, nor odor: To S ox. of water add 20 grains of muriate of am monia, a small box ' of Varlex Com pound and 10 grains of pepsin. Put into coffee or food a teaspoonful three times a day. This prescription Is per fectly harmless, can be obtained at any drug store, and. will be found very ef fective In the treatment of the liquor habit- , . (Adv.) C5f (I Cttmmtnq, Ga. u I tell some suffering wo man every day of Lydia E. Pinkham'sVeg ettible Compound and what it has done for me. I could not eat or sleep, had a bad stomach and was in misery all the time. I could not do my housework or walk any dis tance without suffering great pain. I tried doctors medicinesand different patent med icines but failed to get relief. My husband brought home vyour Vegetable Compound and. in two weeks I could eat anything, could sleep like a healthy baby, and walk a long distance without feeling tired. I can highly recommend your Vegetable Com pound to women who suffer as I did, and you are at liberty to use this letter." Mrs. Chablis Baslkt, E. 3, Cmmiung; Ga. of women Vygr1 .-itfr- wf&. xi.. ' : 1r 111 A MBITIOUS that their homes shall be kept, neat and attractive, children well dressed and family well nourished, thousands in our homes are sacrificing: their health to dutv. cook wash, iron, dust, mend and sew, until some female trouble fastens itself upon, them and their every day life is a continual struggle with weakness and pain. Lydia E. Pinkham's Vegetable Compound is the greatest American Safeguard to woman's health. For three generations it has been relieving women from the worst forms of female ills until there is hardly a .town or hamlet where women do not reside who have been restored to health by its use. How Three Overworked Women Found Help. Their Own Statement! Follow: Florence, So. Dakota. I used to be very sick every month with bearing down pains and backache, and had headache a good deal of the time and very little appe tite. The pains were so bad that I used to sit right down on the floor and cry, because it hurt me so and I could not.do any work at those times. An old woman advised me to try Lydia E. Pinkham's Vegetable Com pound and I got a bottle. I felt better the next month so I took three more bottles of it and got well so I could work all the time. I nope every woman who suffers like I did will try Lydia E. Pinkham's Vegetable Compound." -Mrs. P. W. Lanseno, Route No. 1, Florence, South Dakota. - . Adblvn,Mich. "I rnf. fered terribly with fe male weakness and back ache and got so weak that I could hardly do my work. "When I washed my dishes I had to' sit down and when I would sweep the floor I would get weak so that I would have to lie down before I did my dusting. I got so poorly that my folks thought I waa going into comumption. One day I read whit Lydia E. Pink- nam s v egeiaoie compouna nas aone ior wefmen. 1 showed It to my husband and he said, Why don't yoii try it?' I did,' and after 'taking 2 bottles I felt better, and after 3 months use I am welL" Mrs. A. E. Baxjou 9,Tecumseh St Adrian, Mich. Every sick woman owes it to herself to give Lydia E Pinkham's Vegetable Componnd a trial, forit cannot harm bcr andVthere are a hundred cnances to one that it will completely restore her health. . . - THE LYDIA E. PINKHAM MEDICINE COMPANY, LYNN, MASS.