IF THERE la any one feature
which predominates the fashions
of this season It Is the magpie
combination. The smartest cos
tumes are of black and white, and
the same statement is true of the mil
linery. There' is a distinctive rood-
lshness about black and white which
no other alliance possesses. All types
of costumes are developed of these
colors, whether for evening:, after-
noon or morning wear. Frocks of
sheer materials are favored for street
wear, and Jhe heavy linens, piques
and cotton fabrics no longer enjoy
their former popularity. Organdie,
' tulle, voile and batiste have usurped
the favor of the heavier summer
fabrics.
i There is a general craze for the all
white costume with a touch of black
in the form of a sash. The latter is
usually of black velvet ribbon, though
now and again one of moire Is intro
duced. In this collection of, Ave frocks
you will find costumes suitable -for any
occasion.
The charming evening gown, of which
the front view is given, is an artistio
combination of white tulle lace and
, white satin girdled with black velvet.
The bodice la of Grecian simplicity and
. is adorned with a frill of embroidered
nei ciaspea over ine snouiaers with or
naments of Jet. The long tunic of the
tulle is bordered with a band of em
broidered tulle to match that used on
the bodice. The satin underskirt is
narrow and terminates In a pointed
train. The girdle Is drawn up in front
and long sash ends hang over the tunic. '
' An ornament of jet clasps the girdle.
The coiffure Is adorned with a bandeau
. of velvet trimmed with jet. Charmeuse
may be substituted for the white satin
if desired. This is ten excellent model
for remodeling an old white satin frock.
Can you imagine a smarter frock than
the. model with the long basque It
Is developed of white organdie and Is
the correct costume for a warm summer
ay. It Is cool and te2Wng, fr it
.Is severely plain. Th tightly fitted
i basque Is fastened with many buttons
after the fashion of the old-time basque.
and the sleeves are also long and close
. fitting. The pointed neck line is finished
with a rolled-back collar which ex
tends down the front in the form of
. ; revere. The basque forms a yoke at the
' top ot the skirt and to this is joined
" the long, full tunic ' The underskirt Li
f formed of three tiers, each one wider
i toward the knees. About the hips Is
drawn a sash of black ribbon velvet,
which is knotted aW he side. This mod
el may be duplicated with serge, pon-
'. " gee or taffeta. The hat worn with this
frock repeats the color scheme of black
and white. It Is of white straw with
a crown of black velvet and trimmed
with black wings.
' A, lovely frock for afternoon wear Is
the model of white voile with grenadier
straps of black velvet crossing over the
front and forming the girdle. The side
and back views are given of this frock.
The bodice is fastened with white porce
lain buttons and an upstanding collar
of white hemstitched organdie. This
model has a tight waistband, which' em
phasizes the fact that the smaller waist
is steadily gaining favor. In fact, there
has been a gradual change In the sil
houette, the widest portion now being 1
between the knees and the ankles. The
tunic is of the spiral type, and the under
skirt is narrow. The velvet Is two Inches
in width and is drawn about the neck,
crossed in front, and knotted at tho
back.
A smart hat of white crepon faced '
with black velvet and trimmed with a
black plume completes the pleasing
effect of this costume.
A decidedly summery frock is the
IF YOU would be thoroughly up to
date you must wear chemisettes of
white organdie. These charming bits
of neckwear Impart a delightful fresh
!! !5 to, th?. summer frock, and every
chimisettei boaat of 410 .assortment of
To reproduce the model with' vertical
' iuckw ?J?d narrw frills of the material,
stitch the tucks by hand or on the ma
' chine, leaving the front plain. AUnw
an extension of the material for a wide
: turned-down collar and cut the neck
dainty model of white batiste mad with,
the bodice and tunic in one piece. The
fullness is gathered in at the waist by
means of the black velvet girdle. .This
produces an empire line In front. Am
upstanding frill of laoe contributes an
attractive bit of softness about the neck
and the short sleeves have frills to cor
respond. The long full tunic hangs In
straight lines over the double under
skirt, and the sash Is tied in front.
The flower-trimmed hat has returned
to its own, nd the pretty model is of
white mouaseline d sole faced with
black velvet. The crown is wreathed
with small yellow roses and white vio
lets and a flat bow of velvet adorns the
back.
Every woman realizes the smartness
of an evening costume evolved of white
satin and black tulle. The design given
here proves the success of this alliance.
The tightly fitted foundation is ot white
NEC KWEAR
hti to form a V. Trim the collar and
front with narrow gathered ruffles of
the organdie. The cravat Is of black
, velvet finished with tassels.
The dainty chemisette trimmed with
scallops introduces a touch of color, for
the scallops and buttonholes are stitched
- with strawberry pink. A small black
velvet bow is placed at the base of the ;
pointed opening at the neck.
The vogue for striped materials la pro
nounced In the realm of neckwear. The
mannish chemisette has pointed collar
satin and over this is arranged the black
tulle. The bodice is sleeveless and the
tulle is folded over the shoulders In
jumper fashion. Bands of black velvet
outline the arm holes. From beneath the
broad girdle of black velvet falls the
double tunic of the tulle. Each tier is
trimmed with a band of ribbon velvet.
The satin skirt is narrow and extends
below the tunic The girdle is tied in a
flat bow at the back and the long ends .'
extend below the girdle.
If you happen to possess a frock of
white silk or satin, long since gone out
of date, use it as the foundation for a -frock
of this type. The home dress
maker can easily copy this design, for
if is unusually simple In construction.
Whether you remain at home all sum
mer or spend a portion of it at a resort,
you will need white frocks, and if you
desire to be apace with fashion, they
must be sashed with black. '
IN SMARTEST PHASES
and revers. ' The organdie is striped
dark blue and white. Whit organdie
Is used for the collar and rovers.- The
cravat Is of black moire. -
Lee mannish is the model of tucked
organdie, with the three bows of black
velvet trimming ih front. The broad
collar and revers are hemstitched and
edged with narrow pleated ruffles.
The severely plain chemisette with th
largo black bow at th throat- is- of
white organdie tucked and hemstitched
In vertical lines.- It suggests th bosom
FRENCH FASHION
PARIS, July 9.
THE Intense heat of this midsum
mer weather has driven many
Parisians to their country homes,
where they are entertaining bouse
parties in truly English fashion. On
the spacious lawns are given fetes,
teas and even supper parties, and few
regrets, are sent to hostesses who en
tertain in this manner. To these
parties the guests take an assortment
of dainty summer frocks which can
be worn but seldom In the city, for, un
like her sister of Angleterre, the
Frenchwoman, heretofore, has not
paid much attention to her garden
party gowns. One fashionable matron
of the diplomatic set favors models
of all-white materials, with a brilliant
dash of color introduced in the form
- of a girdle, bolero jacket or waist
coat. The girdles are usually of silk
of a full-dress shirt and has a'doubl
line of small crocheted buttons extend
ing from th base of th V-ehaped open
ing to the waist line. A high stock of
black moire is drawn closely about th
neck, and over this turns a pointed
collar of organdie,, The stock Is tied in
a flat bow. V
Decidedly dlrectoir In line la th de
sign with the straps of black velvet
acros the front. The collar rolls over a
band ot black velvet, and th narrow
crepe or taffeta, while the latter two
are of chiffon, elaborately embroidered
with silk or tiny beads.
There are other pretty frocks of lac
and linen, which are handsomely trim
med and as varied in form as the
flowers which sometimes are scattered
over the surface of the materials.
On lovely model is of white linen
embroidered with wreaths of pink roses.
Rose-colored tulle is used in Quite an
original manner to trim thla - model.
Over the pleated underskirt falls a
long tunic of tulle, spilt in front to
disclose the underskirt fastened with
violet velvet buttons. About the waist
Is drawn a sash of violet velvet and
moire, and the bodice of the embroid
ered linen 'has a collar and subeleeves
of the rose-colored tulle. - With this
stunning costume a large hat of black
mousseline do sole Is worn.
stripes of velvet are drawn through em
broidered eyelets.
Th last chemisette of this collection
is also of th dlrectoir period. Large,
pointed revers turn back from the point
ed neck line, and the upstanding halt .
collar is held together at th base of
th neck with a cravat of black moire.
You may not be a sewer of wide ex
perience and beeltat to attempt making
f rooks. Why not test your, ability by,
first making a chemisette? : You will
find it fascinating work and will be re
warded, with a smart piece of neckwear.
NOTES
Th fashionable wrap for gowns ot
sheer materials are th full capes ot
black or' dark-colored velvet or satin.
These resemble those worn in Italian
opera, and some of the modela are
held in position by straps of velvet or
satin to match. These cross over th
front and fasten at the back.
Spiral lac flounces are extensively
used to trim frocks of sheer linen,
organdie, batiste or tulle. Flounces of
the material are sometimes alternated
with th lace. Wide, flaring . Medici
collars of lace finish th neck line
of these frocks. . ' .
Bashes of canary-colored taffeta ap
pear on whit frocks. They are fold
ed about the waist in soft folds and
are knotted at the side or back.
A frock of whit net is a symphony
of grace and coolness. Th skirt is a
series of narrow flounces from th
waist to th hem. each one finished
with nirnw hand of nmlm blue taffeta.
Th corsage is very full and is well
cut out at th neck, which is then fin
ished with a pleated flounce, forming
a sort of collarette. The sleeves strike
a not of individuality, for thy ap
pear like two squares of tulle, extend
ing to the waist line and waving likS)
wings wnen tne wtirer tut
broad belt is of blue taffeta. Designed
to wear with this frock is a col um bin
cap of taffeta to correspond with th
girdle. ' . . .
Long tunics and Jumper bodices of
colored linen or crepe are worn over
foundations of white. Generally, this
tunic falls over a wide pleated flounce,
for the present tendency is toward
skirts with side, box or knife pleated
flouncea Striped linens are usd for
th overdresses on many of th cos
tumes designed by Premet.
On afternoon and evening gowns of
sheer fabrics are hung long tunics of
tulle finished with a single row of An
beads. These produce a delightfully
cobwebby effect, and a variety ot
tunics can b wore over th aanss
foundation, . .
Hats trimmed with fruit bsv ap
peared during th last week. They are
small turbans or wide-brimmed pictur
hats. Currants, grapes, small apple,
blackberries, cherries, plums, be
and citron are th favored varieties,
Th blossoms are sometimes combined
with the fruit, and black velvet or col
ored ribbon is arranged in loops or bows
among the foliage.
The semifltted lines are emphasised
in the street costumes, and skirts ax
decidedly wider. -
The vogue for capes is steadily grow
ing and much attention is given to th
jimnK. wiih.ii " -
Roman-trtped silk. ' -
Cape coats are much in demand, and
many women win prefer these for their
fall wraps. - Many models are sleeve
less. whU others nav sleeves of aU
varieties. ELOISB.