THE OREGON - SUNDAY JOURNAL,. PORTLAND. SUNDAY. MORNING, JUNE 21, 1914
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NEW LINES IN YOUNG GIRLS' FROCKS
French Fashion
Notes '
. : ; . . ' ' ; - 1
EVERY mother takes a special de
light in frocking her young
daughter, who wilt before many
year bid farewell to school life.
and assume her position' in business or
society. -Not such a long time has
lapsed since the mother herself enjoy
ed the pleasant years of girlhood. There
are couturiers who make a specialty
of costumes for young, girls between the
ages of twelve and twenty. The results
of the ability to create frocks of girl
ish simplicity, embodying all the desir
able features of this season's fashions,
are worthy of your admiration if you
possess good taste. ,
Five dainty summer frocks are select
ed from as many exclusive shops to of
fer suggestions to the mother who sews.
They are perfect examples of modish
simplicity,' and you will And them easy
Co duplicate for your daughter. The
materials favored for the young girl's
tub-frock are linen, organdie, dotted or
embroidered swiss, voile and batiste.
X delightful combination of dotted
swiss and flowered batiste is the model
designed for the "jeune fille" of six
teen. It shows an attractive develop
ment of the long tunic, and will prove
a becoming model to any type. The
bodice has bands of the trimming eross
t lng over In grenadier fashion, and the
neck line is finished with a gathered
frill of the swiss. "The upper portion of
the tunio is scantily gathered, and to
this is Joined a flounce trimmed with.
the flowered batiste. The underskirt Is
rather narrow.
Correspondingly girlish is the hat worn
with this frock. It is of white straw
trimmed with small pink roses and a
frill of organdie.
The white frock enlivened with bands
of color is featured by one famous
Parisian designer. White organdie is
used for the model with the short tunio,
and the bands of nattier-blue linen Are
employee as trimming.
The bodice Is severely plain, with a
narrow band of puffing outlining the
rounded neck line and the shoulder
seams. Ruffles edged with blue trim
the short, full sleeves, and below the
girdle of blue linen falls a short pep
lum bordered with the same material.
The short, full tunic is trimmed with
a band of the' puffing and a border of
the blue linen. This falls over the
perfectly plain underskirt.
The pretty hat is of white straw,
bound, with nattier-blue taffeta. A bow
of the same material adorns the back.
A parasct of nattier-blue taffeta
striped with white is carried with this
costume.
If you have a little daughter of 14 or
15, you could not choose a more at
tractive model than the one of dotted
voile trimmed with bands of dark blue
linen.
The bodice is worn over a gulmpe of
plain white net, with sleeves of the
dotted voile. The overbodice has a
pointed neck line outlined with dark
blue linen, and the dropped shoulders
are bound .-. with the same material.
vOver the narrow underskirt falls a
long tunic The lower portion is cir
cular, and is joined to a shallow yoke.
The smart little hat has a brim of
dark-blue taffeta and a full crown of
flexible white straw.
White and" yellow roses constitute
the trimming. 'This model can be suc
cessfully copied in sheer linen, swiss
or organdie.
No collection of frocks suitable for
a young girl would be complete with
out a model of white linen, and the
charming one with the double tunic is
developed of this material.
Scallops are rapidly gaining popular
ity, and those finishing the collar, arm
holes and tunio are bound with straw
berry pink linen. A guimpe of white
organdie, with long, full sleeves, is worn
beneath the bodice. About the waist is
drawn a girdle of strawberry-pink
linen, below which hangs the double
tunic
A lovely hat of -wjiite straw, with
the crown of corbeau-blue velvet, and)
a cluster of pink roses, contributes a
delightful note of contrast to this cos
tume. White voile bound with nattier-blue,
pale-pink linen with white, natural
color pongee and dark-blue taffeta
are suggestions to fashion this design.
For the young lady of 18 or 20 the
designer has produced the fascinating
frock of which the back view is given.
It is a quaint frock, which success
fully combines the pannier-tunic and
ruffles. White organdie is the material
employed, and the scallops are bound
with lemon-yellow linen. This is one of
the ' fashionable color combinations of
the summer. The bodice emphasizes the
drooped-shoulder effect of 1&G0, and a
shirred tucker extends above the scal
loped ruffle. The elbow-length sleeves
are adorned with scalloped frills, and a
girdle of sapphire-blue velvet ties in a
flat bow at the back, with long sash
enda To produce the pannier effect the
long tunic is gathered to the foundation
at the knees. Four scalloped ruffles,
arranged one above the other, trim the
bottom of the tunic.
To complete the quaint effect of this
frock. Is worn a watteau hat of leg
horn straw, trimmed with sapphire-blue
velvet and roses.-
If you have been searching for prac
tical ideas regarding the summer frocks
of your young daughters, yau will find
them on this page.
Ornaments f pr the
Coiffure
T
I HE fashion of halrdressing
is
in
changing almost dally, for
this, as in all else, there must
be a variety to stimulate the interest
of the feminine world.- You may
evolve an individual coiffure as long -as
you comb the tresses high on top
of the head and leave the ears ex
posed. Then, according to the latest
edict from Paris, you must be sup
plied with an assortment of combs
and pins with which to adorn the
coiffure.
Since the styles of the First and
Second Kmpires prevail, the coiffures
are Inspired by those worn In that in
teresting period, - and the ornaments
sre also borrowed from that time. The
large, fan-shaped pins and combs of
carved tortoise shell or amber are in
highest favor, and are worn high at
the back of the knot coiled on the
crown of the head, or at the side, the
fan extending vertically over the . ear
a little toward the back. Sometimes
these combs are elaborately jeweled
with lines of white or colored bril
liants radiating from the base of the
fan to the wider edge. :
Other ornaments are of filigree
-platinum, or m. expensive metal ef
the same color, thicTcly ornamented
with rhinestones. The delicate, tra
ceries of the designs are outlined with
small brilliants, and when worn in
the coiffure of a brunette ornaments
of this variety are seen at their best.
Other handsome pins are enameled
and gilded in delicate designs against ,
a background, of tortoise shell. Fre-
quently the tracings of gold are min
gled with jewels.
The Spanish comb of carved shell is
a duplicate of the one worn by Car
men, and usually ornaments the coif
fure arranged in the Spanish fash
Ion. Clusters of slender ringlets are
sometimes cascaded over the back and
Bides of the head.
The Grecian coiffure is also ex
tremely smart, and the ornaments de
signed for this arrangement are of
gold cords or strands of beads in the
form of the Grecian fillet. These are
" - J 7 & m ;ipZ vw -0,tnJ
X , V' I Fisherman's . . r"T ' , X s
f ; . ' : " CbQcsA V:A -v X
v k " 4 yS leather and entirely waterproof; and Af gfyr
P 'v f ' ' when It is wet it only, sparkles and, ' ' "r frC?
"' , " i gleams the more In the sunlight. The . - ' . -
T ' ' L cap is very simply made of an unus- "iy
v ' x, Y ' ' fe-'I JLjrJ? ually full tam-o'-shanter bathing; cap jEiwgA X1.
Ol i VxS' with Its folds allvdrawn and fastened; A
1 Qv cS t0 a point In the exact center front.!
wm The butterfly ornament is placed over, . O
i 1 . the fastening; of the folds. 4 ' ' - I
' rf ; I . Then there is the UtUe silk-rubber . ,
V ' - irit,:.. Urnm I flBberman's hat, that keeps out the sun; ftK t
( A YjyjIf 59? I as well as the water, and thus saves W0. rproof- ,
II fit" . ' I many 4 cheek and neck from sunburn.! fr1-3 vrnamfi7f j r v 1 1
I 111 I K n 18 vel7 much in fear of sun I .
1 - - - lMnm-fii r' 1 1 I burn, the hat may be extra large. The I v . . . Vm' , "V
'HEM Beauty takes taer salt
plunge, she Is no longer dis
figured by a close-flttlnsr.
hideous, little rubber cap, that gives
her no compensation for stealing and
hiding away from her face the soft
frame of her hair. Indeed, the fash
ion in bathing caps is now varied to
the extent of putting the prospective
bather upon the fence of indecision,
so many styles are there from which
she may choose. Not only are the
new bathing; caps becoming; they are
practical as wall. . for thv ata be
graceful and artistic, the beads being
strung on slender, pliable wires. One,
two or three strands are used for
each fillet.
The tango cap is almost a necessity 7
to the dance these days, and the mod
els grow mors elaborate as the crass
for dancing Increases. The daintiest
caps are of white lace trimmed with
pearls or of silver tulle dotted with
brilliants. These are made to resem
ble the Dutch caps, or those worn by
the peasants of Normandy. The
wings, which are turned , upward at
each side, are wired to retain their
position.
The simple, girlish bandeau of white
maline is favored for young girls, and
they are ornamented with a bow of
the same material or a single flower.
Jet ornaments of all varieties ap
pear in the smart shops, and are par
ticularly popular among; older women.
B AT HING G A P BE A U T Y
worn by the girl who swims like a
fish as well as by the one who prome
nades the beach In her bathing togs,
fishing for admiration.
For : instance, - what could be more
becoming to a certain type than the
little striped bathing cap, with its
butterfly ornament : upon - the center
front? At first glance, " one would
think it impossible that such a launty
head covering could be Immersed in'
the briny deep without coming' out
tin recognisable, but a closer inspec
tion proves the ornament to be patent
Smart Footgear,
w
'HAT every woman knows Is that
footgear .Is one of the m.ot im
portant i features of the smart
outfit. The feet, are very conspicuous. '
particularly - so - at present, since , the
shorter skirt is in vogue, Ths effect of
the most stunning costume can be
spoiled by shoes whioh are shabby, 111
Otting or of the wrong color.
The novelty shoe reigns supreme to
; day, and - the manufacturers have pre-:
sen ted a wide selection of models. 'The
revival of dancing as the principal di
version is responsible for the pretty low
shoes. Most of the shoes have high
heels, though a few models continue
heelleas.
Leathers of all colors and textures are
combined in the more elaborate de
signs. "The vamps are long and ths
colonial type seems to prevail. '
tn nnint In tfc s..nt. front J
The butterfly ornament is placed over,
the fastening of the folds. 4
Then there is the little silk-rubber
fisherman's hat, that keeps out the sun
as welt as the water, and thus saves
many a cheek and neck from sunburn.)
It one is very much in fear of sun-,
burn, the hat may be extra large. The;
silk-rubber of which' it is made 1 can
be had in 'numerous colorful and at
tractive designs. If it is thought that
even more protection is needed for the;
hair, a plain little rubber tam-o'-shanter
can be worn under : the 'larger hat. If
the larger hat ; is well pulled down the
tam-o'-shanter will be well concealed, j.
The Vikir.g cap of awning-stripe rub
ber silk is both attractive and practical.
It is small and fits well down over
the head to keep old Neptune out. A
"v trimming of black or colored ribbon,
fancifully twisted and curved lip over
the front, further emphasizes 1 the
Napoleonic chapeau, and the two rib-
Xiow shoes of Roman -triped silk art
also fashionable, and an effecUvs pair
haws heels of plain black satin, while
the main portion of the shoe Is of silk
striped with dull red. void and. black.
It is safe to say that the mosfe popu--Jar
shoes are of the magpie combina
tion, and there is an infinite variety of
designs shown of black and white leath
er or silk. For street '-wear there are
colonial pumps of black patent leather
with backs of white kid and the vamps
bound about the top with ths same ma
terial. Other models have the vamps
formed of alternate strips of black
and white leather. There are evening
slippers of corded silk with strappings
of white silk and others of black pat
ent leather, trimmed with white aid.
White satin slippers are embroidered
with jet, and black slippers orna
mented: with crystal, rhinestones or cut
steel beads.
bon rosettes upon each side lve both
a feminine and military touch, com
bined. The cap is faced with a plain
color to .match the stripes in the cap
material or the ribbon with which it is
trimmed. .
Very coquettish is the bathing cap
with its flaring ruffle. , The cap is made
of black taffeta to match the bathing
suit with which it is worn, and the
edge of the ruffle has a binding to
match the trimming upon the suit. The
. cap proper is made on tam-o'-shanter
-. lines). - Instead of being plain upon the
top. however., tt Is shirred into cen
With white costumes wiU be worn the
striking shoes of cherry-red morecco.
These come In oxford-tie or pomp form.
There are attractive designs of bro
caded silk in all tones to correspond
with any gown. A handsome brocade,
showing a peacock design executed In
the natural brilliant colorings, is used
for one elaborate pair of evening. They
are ornamented with rhlneetone buck lea.
For sports wear there are the fiat
heeled shoes of white buckskin or tan
leather. An English shoe is of white
eaavas strapped with tan leather.
Low shoes of white kid will be worn
with frocks of sheer white materials
and are to be had In all designs.
Buckles of white enamel, silver, cut
steel, leather or corded silk adorn these
models.
If you desire to appear fashionably at
tired, you must purchase an assortment
of smart shoes.
u
tral point and a button placed ever !
The edge of the cap is run through wltH
a firm elastic, and the ruffle stands eat
from this edge. The ruffle should have
one of these patent clasps upon It, with
the little socket belonging to it on the
cap. While bathing the ruffle can be
clasped back and off the face, while
when one comes upon the beach and
into the sun the ruffle can be un
fastened and let down to shade the
face from sunburn.
By all means wear one ef the new
and becoming caps if yea Indulge to
ocean baths this summer.
PARIS. June 11.
THS tourist in Paris at the pres
ent time should make a special ef- .
. fort to attend the fetes given at
Sevres, et. Cloud,' Charenton and Vln
eeanes, for they are well worth seeing.
There Is a rumor afloat that there wlU
be a grand pageant at Versailles, re
producing the principal events during
the picturesque reigns of Louis XIV,
Louis XV and Louis XVI. Many of the
leading artists of France are making
ketches of the costumes and masques
given at that period, observing truth
fully the fashions And descriptions ef .
the entertainments gives at that time.
The characters will be selected to re
semble as nearly as poss&le the famous
beauties and gal.aats of the eourte. It
Is to be hoped the idea wCl become a
fact and we wUi again see tt pelaee of
Versailles thronging with gay revelara.
It Is no longer startling to see pasv
talettes of net or sheer linen peeping
from beneath the fun skirts of the
crocks which were Inspired by the
harming costumes of 1230 or 100. There
are full skirts with etralght lines and
flounced skirts which flare gradually
from the waist to the hem, which have;
narrow underskirts or pantalettes ex
tending below.
There is no denying the fact' that the
high coiffure with its fan-shaped combs
of carved tortoise shell is becoming te
most women, particularly when they
wear the quaint frocks of taffeta, swiss.
organdie, tulle or batiste. Frills of lacs,
puffings, ruches and flouncing ax the
trimmings used on these frocka
In a recent showing of Cberult models
for midsummer wear there was a goodly
collection of frocks fashioned of white
tulle, linen, batiste and eyelet embroid
ery. Most of them have the long, full
tunic, and several lovely frocks are
trimmed with ruches of whit utin
White ribbon or moire or taffeta Is also
effectively employed as trimming on
models of this type. IThe apron tunic,
which extends only halfway round the
waist, seems to be a popular feature on
summer frocks. The material is gathered
full to a narrow girdle of satin or rib
bon, and this la attached to each side
of the waist with flat buttona
Although a blaze of color meets the -eye
on all sides, the smartest costumes,
are developed in black and white. The
chlo Paiisienne never forgets the un
bounded possibilities of this combt- '
nation.
Frocks for the dansant are frequent- '
ly of this magpie combination, and
black taffeta and white chiffon are.
the materials more generally used. -IThe
blouse is of the transparent fabrio
trimmed with xnallnes lace, and the
skirt with long pleated tunio is of the
taffeta. While on the subject of the r
dansants it is 'fitting to describe a few
of the cunning little hats women are
wearing to these delightful affaire.
The general favorite seems to be tbV
flower-pot hat of straw trimmed with
flowers. Those of shiny black mllan,
wreathed With small roses and foliage,
are the crowning feature of many
smart toilettea
Other dainty plateau hats appear as ff
they might have been copied from a
Fragonard painting, so exquisite are
they in line and coloring. One model
worn with a frock- of supple white silk
is of yellow straw, with pink roses
banked beneath the brim at the back.
A band of black moire ribbon is .
filleted across the top, . and a small
cluster of roses Is placed at one side.
Close-fitting toques of black straw
trimmed with flutlngs of black tulle and
a single colored rose are also worn with
the dance frock.
The broad girdle of Roman-striped -ribbon
continues in high favor, and is
worn with costumes of worsted, silk or
cotton materials. It is tied at the back
with a vertical bow or knotted at the
gide. with ends extending to the kneea ..
Flowered chiffons have inspired the
couturiers to create lovely frocks
for afternoon and evening wear. The
bodices and tunics ars of the flowered
material, arranged over a foundation
of plain black chiffon or silk. .
Paris always wears something con
trary to the season,, and hats of black -velvet,
trimmed with roses and foil-.
age fashioned of white moussellne, '
have appeared. These presage the
millinery for next season, and are
scoop-bonnet shaped or follow the'
lines of the narrow-brimmed sailor "
so popular this summer.
Evening coats have changed com
pletely, and the latest model by Dre-
dell is of brocaded silk in tones of
black and gold. The coat is oddly
cut with a long-waisted bodice, to
which Is joined a full circular skirt.
A wide collar of plain black satin
rolls back over the shoulder and ex
tends to the waist line. Cape wraps
of plain, semltransparent materials, '
lined with figured designs, are worn
by old and young alike. They are
graceful and becoming to all ftgurea
There is something decidedly ro-
mantle about a flower-sprigged frock,
and the charming models evolved by
Jeanne Lanvin might have been worn
In the hedge-bounded gardens of our -great-grandmothers.
They are de- -llghtful
confections of flowered tulle, ,
batiste or, chiffon, and are trimmed
with narrow flounces of lace or ma
terial selected for the frock. Rome
. of them have long tunics, finished -with
.a pleated or gathered frill;
others are straight skirts, gathered
at the waist line and trimmed at, the
bottom with three or four ruffles.
' Box-pleated tunics and flounces are
featured on costumes designed by "
Paquin, Callot, Premet, Beer and Polret.
Jackets are of white satin embroid
ered with white soutache braid or tiny
beads of white or black and white. On -one
model a two-Inch band is solidly
beaded in checker-board effect.
Wide-brimmed hats ef white lace or
straw inmmea wun nowers and stream
ers of ribbon or maline are the designs
of Caroline Reboux, Georgette, Marie1
Louise and Violette. The dainty frocks
of transparent materials demand hats ,
of this type.
White and gray stockinrs. embroid
ered with small designs in the same
tone, are worn with colonial shoes of"
black patent leather or kid.
The Lirectoire etafC, topped with a -bouquet
of natural flowers, is a fasci
nating fashion which Paristennes have
accepted. They are of black, white,
dark-blue ' or deep-yellow enameled
wood and appear at their best when '
carried with the pannier costume.
- ELOISJt