V . THE OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL, PORTLAND. SUNDAY MORNING. MARCH 29. 1914 i i NEEDLEWOMAN is -1 By Adelaide Byrd si : - 1 JJUll-L'JU." 1 ' tbrihelNDUSTRlOUS '"N I AN IDEA I i v ( 1 J 7 Top Qf-3oof&? Again the Child IT HAS been frequently remarked ' by people of observation how very simply the "old families' dress their children. Millions of money they may have, but their code of simplicity for the little folks is almost Invari able. Occasionally, when some "new" . blood marries into the family touches of overelaboratlon are sometimes ex hibited. Studied lines these little children may have, and the finest of materials and -the smallest of stltehea . Simplicity does not necessarily mean a laok of expense. It means, most of 'all, a lack of display. But not only with the wealthy and the "four hun- - dred" does this custom of juvenile -simplicity prevail, but with well-bred - people in general. Childhood and South are in themselves a sufficient ecoratlon. An exclusive and simple frock for the little girl may be made from natural-colored linen, with lay-down col lar and cuffs embroidered In grolden . brown mercerized thread. Have the . dress falling In large box pleats back and front from a yoke- and belted in with an embroidered belt. A very .: suitable design would be that of the decorative and yet simple pattern of the walls of Troy. X BOOTEE, ff IN OUR wealth of beautiful design for the embroiderere we must not forget the baby. And here Is a tiny outat that will give the maker joy and great satisfaction and will make Ihe little one more at tractive than ever, if that be possible. The little drawing of the cap shows how convenient this new shape is. It can be opened out for laundering, as the design shows; when ready for -wear It is laced up through the eye lets that are on the slanting edges. ' and a round, comfortable cap fits -over ' the baby's head in a new line. I have had little embroidery put on the cap, for simplicity is a good note to sound In a baby's dress. It Is also very easily worked: The little bootee matches the cap, and the set of these with the cap will make a present that Is fit for a king. Linen of a medium weight, pique or duck will be suitable for these de signs. White mercerized cotton of a soft untwllled variety is excellent. It you like the color note on the little One's garments, use pink for the boy and blue for the girl, if you are a. follower of convention. The combina tion of pastel shades in- the delicate pink, blue, lavender and green will make a varied effect, and on this sim ple design it can be done with an ef fect that will not be obtrusive. As you look at the sketches before you, you will see that the work Is very simple. The flowers are to be done in French knots, and the leaves can be done in solid stitch with a very fir needle or with a lazy-daisy stitch, that Is, simply a loop of cotton, the end of the loop held at the Up by a short SIMPLE EMBROIDERY HaVe you noticed the attractive bedroom sets embroidered with the simple lazy-daisy stitch? They are lovely enough to attract the atten tion of any woman who admires bright color and flower designs. The back ground usually chosen for these sets is ecru or deep cream linen and the de signs are baskets filled with daisies or asters, old-fa.shloned bouquets of the same flowers or garlands arranged in festoons about the edge. It is easier to take the dimensions of your dretser and chiffonier to a needle work shop and have the linen stamped there in any ries pn you may prefer. Select mercerised cotton of a not-too-heavy quality, in rich tones of purple, dark rone, yellow anrS green, to em broider the flowers and foliage. A few AND o v o flowers may be embroidered with white if you desire. The petals of the asters or daisies are filled in j with the lasy-dalsy stitch and the yellow centers with French knots. Buttonhole-stitch the edge in small scallops,! using a heavier cotton to match the linen. If an edging of cluny lace is stitched to this the effect will be de cidedly pleasing. When making the pincushion, scallop the lower section also and border it with the lace, so that when the top and. bot tom are i laced together the double edg ing of lace will contribute a dainty fin- tsh to the cushion. - Tou will find the three pieces, constl tutlnsr the set. completed in less than no time. This is the advantage ox us ing the lasy-dalsy stitch. Other designs show flowers 0ucb as etitoh. If the cotton be eesrie, ftra can maks the petals ef the fie Wire -with straight stltehea, Work the circle U ytletii fte that the edges can be laee4 together as shown In the drawn hat, fad the scal lops slightly and work to buttonhole sUtofa. Ribbon In white or color can gtv the finishing touches to ihe hat, til bootee is worked in similar man ner with French knots, and the top edge is buttonholed. There la allowance made for a Trench seam or a fell, so that no raw edges are given a chance te rub the little foot. The sole is given, and here again there should be no raw seams. A button and buttonhole can be used at the top of the front to fasten the edges together. If you wish, you can make two buttonholes and tie them with a bow of wide ribbon. Now do not allow this design to go to waste. Make the little sprays of decorative use to you in a yoke on the baby dress or in the decoration of a baby kimono and coat. A panel of a dress can be embroidered with a run ning vine of this flower, which you can get from the design end, by repeating as many times as required, you can fill any space. And then. Just to complete a set for the little highness, make a pillow for the head by placing the sprays on it in a conventional line, or in one corner. Oh, many things can be done with these suggestions! It is the clever mother, sister or cousin or aunt who will make this one page answer many calls of the baby's wardrobe. Let me recommend a set made after this design, and let me promise you much satisfaction in the completion of 1C forget-me-nots, miniature roses and other diminutive blossoms, packed into baskets or to form bouquets. These are fashioned entirely of French knots ar ranged in groups numbering anywhere from elx to . twelve. Sometimes the flowers are so small that only three knots are required to cover the outline. Mercerized cotton of a medium weight is used to form the knots, and the colors combined depend upon the ' personal taste. The roses are loveliest when embroid SOME XL &es Mechlin is Fxgvsffe- Jmitetiori Drtrsse3 IT IS very often difficult for the layman to distinguish between the mechlin. and Valenciennes laces, so much does each resem ble the other. They are considered the two principal Flemish laces of .. their class. Mechlin, as with Valen ciennes, is worked ground and flow ers together, instead of the designs being appllqued upon the ground work, as is the case with many other laces. This method of working neces sitates the use of many bobbins at one time, sometimes numbering as high as . five hundred. We cannot but' marvel at the almost abnormal patience re quired to manipulate and keep sepa rate these many little spools and to regret that the poorly paid lace maker Is not more bountifully remunerated, al though mechlin lace brings much higher prices than many other laces. Sad to say, however, the largest profit If ) ered iwith tones of rose shading from a dark rich shade to a pale tine. Dark green is chosen for the foliage, and the baskets are outlined with brown. Pink or Mue is the tone usually selected for the bowknots which ornament the com pact little bouquet a or hold the festoons . in position. Surely you could not find a more ef fective set for your small daughter's room than one ornamented with roses or asters embroidered with the simple stitches so pbpular at present. THINGS TO KNOW ABOUT Brussels TT?HoseDes?f7 does not go to the actual toiler, but to the ''middleman." The lace is made In Mechlin, St. Trend and Turnhout. While mechlin originated from an effort to make a cheaper lace, it soon became so elab orate that It ranked with the expen sive brussela. and brought frequently as high a price. One way of dlstln- frulshing mechlin from- Valenciennes ace is that the mechlin" is often far more elaborate and has a great va riety of stltehea Like Valenciennes, however, it has been so cleverly Imi tated by machine that the sale of the reel lace has greatly fallen off. Machine-made mechlin has far less dura bility than the band-made lace. Real i V Safe Touch of Handwork IT ISN'T possible tor a business girt to have as many pretty handmade tilings as her yr-at-bome sisters, of course, but she can have jnany pretty things 'with a touch of handwork on them that will lend to her garments that same air of daintiness wtmah surrounds her more fortunate sTitsra Miss Busi ness oirl has to buy, frequently, most of her clothing ready made, but there Is nothing to prevent her putting a tiny hit of handwork upon these ready-made garments and changing) the character of them entirely. In buying; undergar ments it Is well to avoid those over trimrned In cheap lace. Better a plain scallop to which you oan whip a lace edging of your own selection, or a se verely plain garment on which you can embroider a small spray or two or work a monogram. Then there is the ques tion of neckweax. Simple net can be much enhanced, as oan also plain ba tiste, by a vine or flower in handwork. Some busy girls will not buy ready made gowns because they complain of the "store trimmlnr." Surely this Is a simple problem. Remove the "store trimming" and replace it with trim ming of one's own selection. Partic ularly net or lace yokes oan he re placed in this way to advantage, some times a gown of really good lines has a gingerbread air about It that can be quickly dissipated by a change of trim ming. That Frayed Petticoat f 4TT1 lHAr prett3r muffle Is hope I lessly frayed about the edges, in some places very deeply. I simply can't turn It up again or tt will be too short. H don't feel, either, that it would be economy for me to buy a new ruffle for the top, as rt lent quite worth that much expense. Ton see. my shoe buttons tear the ruffles so. too ruefully finished the young girl who had to practice economy. "My dear," began the young girl's mother In a comforting tone, "just you run around to the trimming shop and et some -blue sateen to match that silk, and we'll see what we can do about It. A half yard will be enough." When the girl cam back, mother and daughter got to work. They trimmed and ' turned up the .frayed ruffle, until the petticoat was quite too short lor the' tall girl. Then the mother cut the skirt in two, about halfway between . hip and knee, and Inserted a broad strip of the sateen, thus joining the two sections of the petticoat together aerain. The sateen strip was just suf ficiently broad to take the place of the frayed part of the ruffle which was eliminated, thus making the petticoat just the right length. The result was that the petticoat, whloh would other wise have been oonaigned to the rag bag, wore for several months longer. mechlin has been called, together with Valenciennes, ''the high aris tocracy" of pillow lace, sharing that honor with some few others. It has never been ascertained Just when the manufacture-of brusaels lace began. But that it had become famous in 1741 is evident from some of Ches terfield's writings. A Mrs. Calder wood, who visited Brussels in 1756r wrote the following account of the process: "The manufacture Is. very curious," she wrote. "One person works the flowers. They are all sold separately, and you will see a very pretty sprig for which the worker only rets IS soua The masters who have all theee i- 3 WHY is It that we see so little col- ; ored embroidery on night- : robes? Beautiful white laces and white embroidery, hand and mt- j chine made, are used profusely on these sleeping gowns, but rarely is thane aj touch of even the palest of pastel shades on the gown, with the exception ' of the ribbon. Is there any reason why ; we shouldn't have colored embroidery i on nlghtrobes? They are not worn under a sheer waist, as are corset; covers. We do not embroider our cor set covers in colors because of the bad taste of which we would be guilty, did"' we allow colors to show through oar! sheer blouses. Oa again, let us say that there Isn't any reason why it shouldn't appear on s nlghtrobe, - fled there is more than one should. Colored silks in pest dainty and artlstlo. Colored sSta t this age of perfection la dyetnc raretr fade if properly washed. Colored e broidery on the white materials uasA In robes would be Infinitely beeomtnsj and a great relief to those of as who never look well In aU-whita. Colored ' embroidery, while adding the desired -note of color, is less trouble than the tying of ribbon bows and the threading of ribbons through eyelets or hoaHny, Tou eee, a pretty fitted or round yoke will need no drawing up with stbbons. Crochet buttons oan be used to fasten the yoke at the front, back or side. The side is preferable, as It Is less notioe able. Too muoh care and work cannot Too spent upon a trousseau gown, and let us plan one of fine and not too heavy material. Simplicity shall be Its keynote. There shall he a' plain curved band about the low neck, a shaped band. The rest of the gown shall loosely fall from this. About the yoke, both back and front, embroider wild roses In satin stitch. The sleeves shall be short and puffed, with a bias band ahout them to hold in their fullness and keep them rather close to the" arm. The length of the sleeves) shall extend to harfwy between the shoulder and the elbow. The bias sleeveband is about an inch or an Inch and a quarter -wide and Is embroidered with roses. About the trailing skirt of the gown, just above the hem Itself, shall be a border of the pale wild roses, all hav ing", of course, their pale yellow cen ters and pale green foliage. Yes. it will take time, but a trousseau gown Is worth much time. Do not have the material very heavy. Rather, let It be bo ft and somewhat silky, perhaps a very fine quality of nainsook or batiste. Embroidered Tunic THE soft spring silks, with the ex ception of taffeta, have tempted many art needleworkers to em broider the bottom of the popular tunic. Usually it is the darker materials that are embroidered In this fashion, thus in troducing a note of contrasting color. Blue crepe de chine or charmeuse em broidered in different shades of blue, or with a touch of red, green or old gold in the design, is very lovely. Some few tunics are scalloped and 'buttonhole stitched. Particularly suitable for these tunio borders are the conventional cub ist designs. The same design can be carried unJnto the waist. One must be ware, however, or there will be an overelsiboration, and even in beautiful hand embroidery overelabo ration is not permissible. Cap Bows ONE may possess only two bou doir caps, but seemingly a great many more by the addition of a different colored bow of ribbon now and then. Sometimes It may not toe more than a knot of ribbon, a three or four Inch piece left over from a longer piece used for trimming. It is a wise plan to save all scraps of ribbon three Inches long and over. Not only do they make boudoir cap bows and knots, but they may be used to ornament undergar menta There is one voDular girl who trims her boudoir caps entirely with bows made from candy-4ox ribbons. It Is a pretty fashion to have a knot of f ribbon upon the cap to match the k jj mono or the ribbons of the nlghtrobo. How to Transfer ! PLACE a sheet of impression ear ' bon paper between your fabrle 1 and the newspaper design, the latter on top. With a sharp pencil or 1 a glass-pointed pen go over the out ' ; Una The design will be transferred II , to the material and will last nntUVT worked. :b . LACES people employed sjve tliem toe uiread t to make them; this they do according '- to a pattern, and give them out to be 'V grounded, after which they give them to a third hand, who 'hearts all the flowers with the open work. That is what makes the lace so much dearer f than the mechlin, which is wrought " . all at once." There is a prominent cordonnet or ; -raised thread In brussels lace, which gives a relief to certafn details of the design. Then, too, a modeling effect is Imparted to flowers by means of a j: small bone Instrument, giving con- . cave shapes to leaves, petals and va rlous other ornaments. The reason for usually having several persona work upon different parts of lace Is that Its manufacture Is so difficult and com- i plicated that a single worker usually specialises in one part of the process only. There are sometimes as nigh as v seven processes, requiring seven dlf-,J ferent people. . One authority says: "The fineness of: thread used in brucsels lace is almost f a fable." It Is necessary to spin thei very finest of this thread In dark, un-1 derground rooms, for contact with the? dry air would cause the almost In-f visible thread to break. Dark paper IS used frr a background to throw out this thread, and a single ray ef light? is admitted to the room and focused!;, upon the work. A beautiful characteristic of brussels. lace is that almost Invariably lis de--s sign Is composed of objects naturalist tlcally treated, usually birds, leaves; and flowers. Sometimes the human;! figure and animrls are incorporated In! the design. In some patterns of brus$ sets lace the designs are connected y brides, email irregular threads, and others the groundwork or resseau Is a ' fine net. - j Fortunately for the town of Brusj eels, no other town has been able tof compete with her In the manufacturer of the lace which she has named for. herself.' Antwerp, Ghent and other? localities have tried In vain to equal It. The difficulty in procuring thread? ' of the necessary fineness has pre' vented other countries from com pet- ing In the art A Scotchman who hope , lessly gave up a desire to manufaO t-na lac fn hi "ain countris", i aid. rerardlng the lace: -At Brus-i sels, from one pound of flax alone, they-; can manufacture laoe to the-value of' T00." - i it' t : 1 - i! ' II: '4T I M I i I i: I i -4 -A.' : ji