..V r -? " THE OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL; PORTLAND. SUNDAY MORNING, NOVEMBER v 107 1913 : r V',. . , i . -., ' ' 'V- By Mrs, Hlnry Symes am 4 4aV 7 k i Health BEAUTt U V.V11 "saw ' m I III W' ai asi m m. mm mm m m m m m m mm w m mi it m u mw m. m m tm m 1 1 1 Abendkau Over Waved fior HEIIK are so many soft, pretty ways to dress tho hair at present that any woiiran, no matter how unattractive her face, ran mate- ! rially alter the contour of her face and ; ; i soften, hard lines by a becoming coiffure. I . When I see a plain little woman with her f . . .... hair drawn tightly back into a compact i knot, I feel like pleading with her to al- " low me to dress her hah- to let me take avt least ten years from, her age. Two i , things a woman no longer young Should remember are that the hair must cover, partly at least, the ears and come rather ' low on the forehead. The fashion of ;! hairdressfflg today requires that these . two pcints be observed by the young . Ipeople as welL What Is more trying to a. face, old or young, than to have above i It the hard, rigid line of a hat, with nary a stray whisp or curl to fall from r under It? It Is interesting to note that a .-elderly roan recently said that he k recalled the time 'when It was eon- , Bldered immodest for a woman to allow - even the tips of her ears to show. If thh be true, I wish there were more modest women today. They would look eo much , prettier. Now, there's that oft, low pompadour , for the busy bee the fcuslnees girl. The rrangement Is almost classic in its simplicity, , and yet -there is nothing , hard, plain or tight about it. On the contrary, it softens the face wonderfully. t . This coiffure la nore easily managed . If one has naturally wavy hair. Sepa rate the front hair from the, back and comb the front hair Into a?oft, low jwmpadSur (falling ' loosely over 1 the ears, and fasten at the back of the head . rather low down with a hairpin. Then ; ' comb the pompadour and the back hair 5 . together and pin Into a loose, firm coil Lor double-twisted figure eight ' The . short ends at side and front are twl8te4 by the fingers Into tiny ring lets if the hair is naturally curly. The Iron or crimpers will of course, have to be used If the hair has to be arti ficially waved and curled. Crimpers , "will not harm the hair Xf one is care ful to use only those that do not cut or catcft In the strands. The Iron should be used only m cases of emer s r geney and then most carefully. Very small crimpers could be used to curl the short ends, and so form the ring-v..-. lets. If fw-tan put a net upon the - ; - coiffure artfully, so that It is almost ' v impossible to detect its presence, I would advise you to do so. This would keep you "tidy" for business hours. : -Bo sure, however, to conjee only the ' long wisps, for the tiny ringlets must be allowed to creep -under the edge of ANSWERS TO 'BEAUTY QUERIES RKTLl liS to letters to the writer of this department ifill be printed in regular order; but no replies In print may bo expected in less than three or four weeks. Correspondents desiring immediate replies to queries may get them by inclosing a stamped s?lf-addressed envelope. Personal Inquiries will re ceive prompt attention if accompanied by a stamped and. self-addressed'' en velope. Chapped Hands . Dear Mn. 6jme. Will you kiiiUiy tell nie wht 1 cin nn on mj " handi, vhich chap to very tuily r FLORENCE. To prevent your hands from chapping yon should be careful lo dry Uiern thoroughly after they have been washed. ' I not wash them, immediately before going out in the cold if you can pos sibly help it. A gooi cream rubbed Into the skin will relieve their present condition. J. am jgiving you the. recipe for very satisfactory one: Cream, for Chapped Hands White petrolatum '. 3V, ounces A Tsrsffln wax 'i ounce inolin 1 ounce vWtf .1 I'a ounces ,( Oil of ro ; i drops ; Alcohol A '.. H dram 1lt th paraffin wax- ana add the ptro- latum and lanolin. Stir constantly, b. Mi lne th water In during the proefss. AUii tbe oil and alcohol when nearly cold. : Chapped hands ahould b 'treated tiy . Vfref.lnit the handa aa dry poanlble anil ajmlyln arnit audi emollient at nicht bfur retiring. Face Is Greasy - , ffWr Vtk. tima ft. a am U yean old ana am at feet three . Inches tall and weich ninety-seven nmmrU - iM--rna tabk 1 weigh enough for my height and aft? . " ' ' " - - 3. air lace is very freeay. wnat ran I do to make it mora dry, white and smooth I , '";:,..'); '' " JAN1E. 1 A girl of your age and height should wedgh from 11B to 130 pounds. S. If you wish to relieve the ollv con dition of your skin you should avoid all rich and creasy, foods, for diet has a threat luBusnca on tha condition of the the net or the "softening" effect Bit much desired Is lost. Tho modified figure-eight arrangement containing the large shell pins is a, graceful fashion. The hair is separated as In the coiffure firpt described; that Is, tho front from the back. In this In stance, however, the hair is parted slightly tS'one side, and is then drawn hack low over the ears. The bacik hair and the ends of the shies are then combed together. This same loose hair is then evenly divided, the upper from the lower. The lower part is made Into a plait and pinned so as to form a complete circle about the back of fne head and also about the upper part of the looso hair which is not yet ar ranged. The loose hair thus surrounded by the braid resembles a horse's tall. This "tall" is then twisted about in a dou ble figure eight and pinned in the cen ter of the braid. Unless the hair is quite luxuriant, a switch will have to bo used for the braid. Two large shell pins ornament either side of the braid. You will notice that the smaller halr pinsdo not show. Pins that are not' prnamiental should ' never be allowed to tnar the appearance of any hair ar rangement. Always they uhould be concealed as nearly as passible. Also, tho hair should always be braided or arranged with as much looseness as is consistent with firmness. The looser tlie hair, the thicker it appears, the softer it looks. Not only that, it is really a nvatter of hygiene. It is de sirable for iboth health and cleanlinss? that the' be allowed to circulate through the hair freely, and this It cannot do if the hair is twisted Into a tljht coll or knot. It is better to wear a net to keep down stray ends than to plaster them to the head by a tight arrangement. For the maid or woman who objects to even a moderately elaborate coll, such as the figure elglrt, for business, there is the neat hsaijied coll. The hair may be parted on the side or in the cen ter;, the front, separated from the back, is drawn down over the ears, in much the same fashion as the first-mentioned coiffure. The ends of the sides and the, tack are then combed into one. After the hair is thus combed together. It is divided down Jhe center and two braids are made. These are then shaped into the braided knot, the .toraidg crossing and being twisted in opposite directions and interlapping each other. As it is diflicult to keep the hairpins from showing in a braided knot, it is best to x;sf shell pins. They are not so ln artistio as the wire ones. - skfn. An occasional application of di luted alcohol or of witch hazel will prove beneficial. To whiten the akin and make dt smooth use equal parts of lemon juice and glycerin and add a little benzoin to the' lotion. Tills lotion may be applied daily. For the Bust Df-ar Mrs. Bjrmea. liv juu hae tbe recipe for a cream whirh 1 can u.ie to develop the bust! MAHIR Following is the recipe for a cream which you can use- Massage Cream for the Bust lnn)in 6 ounrea )m rmateti ounce Mutton ullow (freshly tried) 4 ouncea ( 'off j&Dtit oil 4 outn-es n! of tweet aunonda 4 ounces Tincture of benzoin 1 drain CHI of neroli 20 drops Mix as you would any cream of tho sort. Hub on gently at night. In connection with the massage prac tice deep breathing. To Whiten the Skin 1 Dear lira. Symea. Will you kindly give me the recipe lor a liquid d powder to whiten tha aKln7 ponder lo whiten the akin 7 Following is the recipe you desire: For Whitening the SkinA liquid Powder Pure oxide of zinc 1 ounce . , Clycerln ;..... 1 dram Rosowater 4 ounces Essence of roe .' 15 drops Hift the zinc, dlwolvlna; It In just enoORh of th rosewater to cover it; then add the slycerln; next, the remainder ol the ruae water. Add the enunce of roe last. Shake well, and apply with a soft aponce or an antiseptic gauze. The fae must be well wiped off before the liquid dries. Or it will be streaked. Trouble With the Eves tear ilrs. Symes. " " "" My eyes have bea giving me much trouble lately. Do you think this is be cause I read ?n the car? K. P. I feel quite sure that your habit is re sponsible to quite an extent. The way in which we all abuse our, eyes, which are jo delicate and so important. Is serimla. . Tou should be careful to have the tight fay from the left, side 'while reading,-- It 13 'well to remember that no mat ter how beautiful a coiffure arrange ment may be it must suit the face or it cannot bo worn successfully. It la also well to change the style of halr tiresslng f reriue.ntly, so that different parts-of the scalp and hair will be ex posed to the light and air, anl to guard against bald spots caused by the pins. If tho 'hair is worn parted it' is al ways well to make a different part each morning from that worn the day be '' fore. i A pretty fashion of arranging the hair for the wearing of a bandeau is the side part and low coil. The small ring lets, whlcili keep the part from being too decided', can be made with Che iron or tiny crimpers. After the hair Is ar ranged place the bandeau about the , head and pull the ringlets from under .lt. For the trlrl whose face Is long there is the low modified rsydhe knot. 6epa rati the front hair from he back Just behind the ears. Roll thJ back Into . one long, firm puff tand Jir it length wise on the back of tho head near the nape of the neck. Part the front hair in the center and draw It loosely back, endeavoring to cover the ears. After the coiffure is completely arranged you may pull the hair still further over the ears with the comb, pinning It in posi tion at trfe side of the knot. Tho side hair 'is fastened at each side of a back puff with shell pins, to hold" ' it in place. The ends are then loosely colled in fanciful little twists, that run along path sido of the large puffs. Bring the front hair well down over the forehead, especially if the forehead be high. The high arrangement of tha hair is for the girl with the round face. It is siiltafble for afternoon or evening. Again, the hair is waved and parted on tJie side. The front hair,' too. Is separated from the back hair behind the ears. The back Is drawn up in a long puff to form tho beginning of a Psyche knot The extreme ends are not wound into the puff, but are left, pro jecting about two Inches. These ends are afterward curled. The sides are drawn up and the ends of the same are wrapped about the Psyche. The ex treme ends are left free for about two inches and curled. The little curls are. then pinned gracefully about the knot with small pins. Two large shell pins ornament tho knot and help to hold it firmly. I am sure that you can fix your hair becomingly by following one of these attractive arrangements. A kjJ ' .' A Modified L- V . I writing or sewing. Head only well printed books and papers. Never read, write or sew while lying down. It is bad to read while feeling physically tired. You cannot be too careful of your eyes. Stop reading on the car for a while and see if there is not an im provement. If at the end of the test you still suffer, you should consult a reliable oculist. 1 A Skin Food Doar Mrs. Byrnes. My skin is In need of nourishment. I should like to try your oranare-flower cream, l'leaae tell me where I can have the formula filled. P. T. Here is the recipe you desire. Tou can have the formula put up at al most any drug stors. 1 am not at liberty to mention ttie name of any firms. Cream of Sweet Oranges (A Skin Food) Sweet oil of almonds 2 ounces Orange-flower water ; 2 ounces "White wax 2 drams Oil of sweet orange 1 drain Spermaceti 2 drains Half fill a saucepan with boiling water. Stand a Jam Jar in this. Shred the wax und apermacuti Into the Jar. Let it dissolve. Heat almond oil and add to the wax. Heat oranee-tlower water; add it half a teaspoon ful at a time, stirring the mixture quickly. Lift the Jar out of the saucepan. Beat mixture with the whisk. Heat and add oil of sweet oranges. Whisk cream until it Is cold. Put In pots and cover with parch ment. . ' A Rouge Dear Mrs. Syroes. Will you kindly give me the recipe for a rouge? 6AHAH. Following are two recipes from which you can make a selection: Liquid Bloom of Hoses Carmine SO grains Ammonia water , 1 Jluld punce Koaewater 4 fluid i) units Bprlt ot rose 1 fluid dram Bloom of Hoses Hosanllln White wax Bpermacetl White petrolatum ..... Alcohol Vprf i im to tnitt . 77 graina . 1 ounces . fiO grains .280 graina Vj fluid dram ' Wssojve the dys In alcohol, uH4Me so lution to the fats previously melted and Incorporate the whole together, continuing . tha stirring until tbe mixture has cooled. Shampooing the -Hair . . Dear Mrs. Pymea. . . , ' . Kindly rive me yourTndvtoe for shamnoo , ing my hair. 1 am a blonde, and my hair reaches below mjr waistband.. I never bad assets ii 3 i WJ3? The 5ofb Low. Pompadour any trouble washing it until I was obliged to move to a city, where the water is very hard. Although my hair feels clean lust after washing, it leaves my comb black and greasy. Ijist time I put a teaapoontul of borax in the first rinsing water, but with no success. LAURA. In the future try to use rainwater for shampooing- your head. You will find this softer than the water from the faucet. If it is Inconvenient for you to do this, add baking soda to the hard water. You may fiml the egg shampoo helpful In your case: Egg Shampoo To half a cake of pure white castile soap add a pint of hot rainwater. Bet on the atove and beat until the soap is perfectly dissolved. To this add' an egg which has been rhoroughly whipped with an eggbe.ater. stirring It Into the mixture with the beater to prevent, curdling. Add one-third of a teaspoonful of borax and a teaspoonful of alcohol to preserve the shampoo. When ready to shampoo the hair, ruh well Into the scalp and rinse In several clear waters, using a bath spray If you have one. To Overcome Nervousness Dear Mrs. Symes. ' I am very anxloua to. have you tell me what to do to overcome a nervousness that ' I have acquired In some way. When I play the piano for company I Imagine . every one Is looking at me, and then I begin to perspire freely. Also' tell me If brushing the hair vigor ously night and morning is good for It. EMILY. Your trouble comes from self-consciousness. You have your mind on yourself and not on your music. Now, If you will reverse matters you will not have the time to think whether or not your auauence is looking at you. You will find that bv dolne this you Will be1 able to render your-selection in a more , proncient manner. ' Yes; but do not" let the brushing: Irri tate the scalp. Yoa should try to strike a medium between gentleness and firm ness. ' Lotion for Weak Eyes Dear Mrs. Symes. i 1. Kindly advise me how much bormclo acid and water to us in a lotion for weak I eyes. ( j 1 What can one use for receding gumsT SUBSCRIBER. - 1. Following. Is ...the ..formula for the lotion: ... " ' Borio acid 1 ounce Boiling water ........................ 1 pint Put liorlo acid In a basin. Pour water . in and allow the. borio acid to dissolve ' before fcottl Ing. 2. You should consult 1ft dentist fan me diately, 1 . . .- ' ' $, fl'K Tit' " ? Vw -" U , .ivJ0fc J? , 'In "unwammv ; r ' 'ill Kj i ' The Nest ivh Knot in & t i - . Ouster of Curls ADVICE ON SOCIAL CUSTOMS 4C uc mu, JS0ctt 'and If a personal reply Is desired, a self addressed stamped envelope uhould ba inclosed. 1 ' THE GOLDEN" SILENCE AM going to speak to you today about the value of 'being able to keep silent. It Is so much better to have' nothing to regret in the way of words than to wish that your tongue had not been so eager to voice thoughts that were hasty and foolish. It is better not to be ashamed at the recollection of un kind, unnecessary words. In the matter of passing; along the word of the gossip, you cannot be too careful. The repeating of a little bit of scandal that has very little foundation, If you would but take the trouble to in vestigate, is one of the most unkind things that you can do. . I am always sorry for a group of young women who have no topic of conversation and must resort to the passing along of untruths that will positively harm the discussed person, who, of course, is not present to defend herself. Have you ever made an unkind retort to an innocent question? And after you 'have done ithe damage, all the re grets in the world were not able to re call it or wipe out the harm that had, been done. The unkind question is an other thing th every one Bhould learn to curb and to relegate to tho golden silence. One day I heard a woman ask where the husband of another was, and there was an embarrassing silence be fore the reply was made that he was In prison. It was, impertinent, and I sin cerely hope that the questioner was as uncomfortable as the little woman who was unfertunate enough to 'be compelled to support herself. That is, of course, not the usual type of thing that occurs j ' iti J Jr !!", in everyday me, but it might happen, u uu.u urcvci vife.fv vmoD'l ,l you were the offender, In a quarrel it is much more dignified to observe a silence- and allow the other one to .forget himself or herself and to have all the regrets. In this kind of an experience, which is not un usual in family or business life, there is auch a chance tbt4ose the. self-control and poise that we value. so highly that a firmer hold on the wish to say something must be kept if you would have nothing to regret. Borne persons will say that it would be foolish, to re fuse to answer In an altercation, but It is my opinion that it is far more ..foolish to say ..too much In a manner that you ycurself would- not recognize.' The golden siilence is particularly worth Us weight in precious metal when you do not know what ryou are talking shout. - Keen aufet in l Alartiwulnn u you have to admit Uiat you don't know . very mireh about the topto of discussion - - . - and that you have based your opinions ,.',,, a!-V An Dr9'd at the back on chance facts and hearsay, which, have a very unsound foundation. It is better to be, a good listener than an ignorant talker. Never put yourself In the light of being Just a talker wlthi nothing to say. Sometimes a frieni will be the victim of misfortune and it were better for her to forget, or at least not to be re ' minded of It,' until greater, strength has been acquired. If a friend is grief .strlcken and shows that Che mention of the sorrow will bring back the trouble with disturbing 7o!gnancy, by all means do not speak about it. .- If you wish to express your sympathy write a llttlonote, to be received when a loss of self-conrol will not be so embarass inar. . in the matter of that much-desired thing whifch we call popularity, there is a great temptation for young women to boast of the number of social en gagements that have filled their calen dars. It is not unusual to hear a girl talk of the number of bouquets she hasf had sent to her during the dance sea son; this same girl will wonder out "loud what she is going to do with all the requests from gentlemen to take her to the theater, musical es. receptions and dances. It Is really a vulgar flaunting of popularity and is a mark of ill breed ing. When you are unfortunate enough to have made a mistake in the choice of a nance, and you have found out in time, the golden silence should be your rule of conduct. Say nothing about the cause of the breaking of the engage ment. A dignified reticence will be far better than endless talking about a thing that is over and. that is an affair, between you and one other. Remember thfe silence that Is golden. .It will maMe you wise and happy many, many times in a day. . Solutions to Social Problems Which One to Use I NEAR Mrs. Adams. J Wheal a number of utensils are set before, one at the table which on . ehouIeVbe' used first? D. V. B. - The general rule is to 'use the one furthest away fepm the plate and work in toward the some. When one Is In doubt about suoh a. matter. It is well to imitate the hostess. A Number of Queries Deir Mrs. I Adams. .1- Should the following articles be eut ' With a knifer Fritters, tomatoes, cheese, olives and fried oysters? 2. la it proper to aak for more water or coffee at a, hotel? How ahould this be done? - , . '.' S. When vegetables are placed on the table -Is It proper to pass one1 a plate or ask to have the dish passed to one? What la the proper .way to do the right ' thing In this oase? , i ' N 4. If a person Ssks me to visit hr nouia i tnanK her for the invitation T should rlrl rise when a man er ThuAhT Wltl1 'r " h?m . w,t u,, pp,,. w introduce y yJ IsassMnaaVHnBIUlSHi m M i f Artistic Psyche a man to a woman and her two daugh ters? A man and wife to a group of 7." Bhould a daughter ehake hands with her niothor's and father's friends, when they are Introduced to her ft 8. Should. woman rlee when an In troduction takee place? la the following correct when nuk ing Introductions? Mother, this l Mr. V.lank." nnd "Miss Blank, allow me to present father"? LILLIAN. 1 No; all except the olives should be cut witn the fork. The olives are eaten with the flngets. 2. Cue is at liberty to ask for more beverages or food at a hotel. The proper thing to do is to call the waiter and make known your wants. 3. A?k the person who Is nearest to the dish to pleaso pass it to you. 4. Yes. 6. It would not be necessary for her to rise in church unless the man be very touch older. In U'r own hom sho should ri.se to show the proper spirit of hospitality. 0. "Mrs. Smith, may I Introduce Mr, Brown to you and your two daughters. Mins Evelyn and Miss Kathryn Brown?' When making a man and wife known to a group of 1rls this form may be used: "iMrs. Blank, let me present Miss Brown, filiss Smith, liss Cross and Miss White; and, Jadics, may I present Mr. Blank?" , , 7. Yes, if they take the Initiative. 8. A woman always rises to receive an Introduction to one of her own sex. unless she is in a group at" the time of the Introduction. She need not rise when a man is presented to her unleas shs Is hostess. . The Mist form of Introduction Is all right", but I think a less formal way to Introduce your lather would be to say, Mlss Blank, I don't thJnk my father lias yet had the pleasure of meeting you." Making an Introduction Dear Mrs. Adams. When Introducing a man to my sister whs Is married, whose name should be men tioned first and should I call her by her married name? KAT1IEIUNE. Your sister's name may be mentioned first. The proper form to use In auch a case Is to say, "Margaret, this Is Mr. Brown; Mr. Brown, this is my sister, Wjs. Jones." Answering an Invitation Dear Mrs. Adams. How soon ahould an invitation to a dinner be anewered, and what kind of paper should be used for the reply? DOROTHY. Such an Invitation should be an swered within twenty-four hours after its receipt. The reply may be made on a correspondence card or a sheet ot note paper. Answering an Invitation Dear Mrs. Adams. Will you please tell me what ahould be the form of a reply written after the receipt of an Invitation in the form of a visiting card? HELEN. The reply should be written in th third person and on note paper. "i. .The Tiride's Exbenses 1 Dear Mrs. Adams. Will you kindly enumerate for me the expenses that the bride bears? BUSAN. Her expenses include tihe engraving. . addressing and posting of invitations or announcement cards, every detail of her wedding dress, the music and flowers and awning at the church, the carriages that' convey the bride and the brides maids to the church and the reception or breakfast following the church cere mony. Serving Shellfish Dear Mnr. Adams. . . . Will you kindly tell me on what kind ef a plate shellfish Is served? YOUNG BRIDB. Shellfish upon a bed of cracked Ice Is servey in a deep pilate, tamdi this Is set upon a second plate to protect the table cloth In case the ice should melt and flood the first platter. Leaving for the Theater. Dear Mrs. Adams. 1. When a yeung man calls to take girl to the theater Or other entertainment, whose place is it to first suggest leaving the house? 2. Upon returning from the theater, if tha young man stops a few minutes at the door to flnidh a subject of conversation, should he remove his hat while talking? S. If a young woman asks a man to call, after meeting him at a party, and be does not care to, what ahould he say? 4. How may a young man break off cor responding with Beveral girl friends, after becoming engaged, without telling them the real reason? "' ' I. A friend of mlna Is to marry .one of two sisters at a double wedding and though I am not acquainted with the young ladh I am invited to tha wedding. Should I send each of thera a present, or only my friend's fiancee? 6.. Another friend is to marry very quietly and only fifteen intimate friends are to witness the ceremony. Afterward an nouncements will be sent to all friends. Should they be sent to those persons whtf '... were at the wedding? 7, At the beginning of a meal should the dishes be passed to the person at Tine's right or teft first? ' ALBERT. 1. The girl should make the suggestion. 2. The hat should be removed. If the weather is extremely cold, however, the girl should-ask. him to replace it on his. head again, so that he will not catcb - cold.'''" :,-.' ' ' i' . ""f,, '''..-,:; 3. He can tret around the matter by. - thanking: her for the Invitation and re-' jraiumg irom saying yes or no. ir sne eta a date, he can excuse himself on the plea of having; a previous engaare ment. . The only thing1 he can do is to dis continue (further correspondeno. Ignore all future letters. - ' 6. Send a gift to your friend's fiancee, . ttfo. v ' 7i A host alwavs serves first the mr. son sitting- at bis right: ' therefore, it may be well to observe this rule all 'around the table. . , , . r y vv