1-.. .1 ' V. V '.'V--i.it' -. V 'V'S V S.S-v, V '-" .' ."' VV, ..-rfv . "JOURNAL, - PORTLAND, SUNDAY MORNING. ' , OCTCCER ' k 19. 1913.' 5ni "-' . . ;vt ,. , . . , . , ,... i " , ... . . .-. ., ,., ; -.. . .... .., . 1 ... : r 1 , - r " : .;..!;' 'j ,p, s ' t laacr TAan They Ever Werinnd Strapped to the Feet, Says Lady Duff-Gordon, Describing the Unusual Fe attires of "Autumn Fashions By.LadyJ)uff-Gordon . Parli, October B.- iLTHOTCH lt!a asfomed tin 'A J I11 - cnuces or A; i jure fx fv ..... (J IU.U. u vug mmmvu ween - leMwo, tills been owed a faltocy 4ot1bc tin son Just dosed. Many nnr nd la soma ase ctartllss haafet,wers par forth .during tt Somber - Ths fimpluide tonic, tor InsUnce, was a radical departure from the extoUnc mode, and yet logical one, for It time for the pendulum to awlnf ' In another dlrectioi. .That this mode . m la reatly fa faror this Winter 'to a v f oregona r condaslon. ; for 11 It achlered great success at DeantHle f ' during the -seaaon at that gayest of ftench watering places. ' 'i' With theraglletaanphade flounca lu' gn aocepted t fact a quite decided ":; change has come oyer the femala ailhouette.lXt might, e nearer to ; - the truth to say that the silhouette v hat become .doubled.' for the came r"' woman may wear the frilly llgura at 4 " one moment ami the peg top. or - vtronseredV' figure the next. .' t . , ' The recent openings, vtlch mesa to much to the fashion world, showed , !: these two distinct ontUnes. It does seem as though wo women would ; carry moat of our wrappings about - our figures from our waist ttns to - x i our knees. And now Is- the moment for me to whisper that there are ert dences that point to a revival of the . puilaleUe. s ' Shades of four grandmothers sad treat aunts 1 Can this be troef It would seem ip, I. am Showing yon some plctares that prove that , this whisper feas much troth behind t ,1L And more ,than this, the pasta ; lette will be worn by women,' not children, as they were in the past Land what glorified affairs these new jpantalettes are! Our grandmothers .would not reeognlis.them. I Bat let me first tell you how I nap ''- f pened to design this sublimated pan-' ' talette. It Is the logical sequence of Chs spilt skirt, which In many modi ,5 , ed forms is stlU with us. But as I 1 jbave said before, not with us at 1U .worst, but at its best' ' The ' pantalette is also the out growth of the draped skirts, partlcu ,' r larly those which give the Holbein figure. Although many of us have 'grsduaDy become educated to the V.cw.rJhe Pnta!ette.Cown of t J ' 'new fashions, and we have at last ,' began to realise that we have tegs,1 there still linger, the feeling with ' ' -V many of us that we must not show1 v ' these physical adjuncts when walk-) en of Paris are having them created i' jng or stepping into our motors. in the filmiest and most exquisite In creating this delightful apple fabrics to iweurwtth their "At Home" " green velvet costume, for which pan- gowns. ; 4 ' talettes seemed the necessary conv Tills apple green costume has an plement I used a beautiful em- other odd and striking feature a , broldered silver net I These panta-' drop sMrt of. green chiffon edged lettes are rather full and are gath- with Tiwn fur, through which fas 1 (ered about the ankle. Put on as they ; lnatlng glimpses of the silver net v should be, with the elastlo strap are seen. The upper sldit is, of under the instep, they are a modest course, of the - velvet arranged la ' and charming; addition to this grace- three tiers.' '. - . Iful costume.. : . The bodies Is simplicity Itseif-a 4 do. not for one momant believe wisp of green chiffon over flesh-col-t: that thess frivolous affairs will ever ored chiffon and edged with fur. Th r i become connonT-that they wlUever tact, this costume should never be (be worn with street costumes. ' They woryl without the bolero, but 1 am are,, however, the most fascinating sending pictures of it wltfc and with- uiogs . tor. -- vaacugi ' sum : oouaoir out. - ,r 1 c,n-. , r- , !;? - - , h . r. r girdle iworn with this eostuma It U black gown are' not - ultra smart a silver and orchid embroidered fab- For .years tt has seemed as though rio that has all the beauty of the fin " we could not get away from .. ; ; ' est 01 ue oia suss. ' us ausNsca . gown. or one Among the most useable and ex thing,, it , was so wearable, It QuMts of the laces and nets which seemed neter to look out of are so to the front this season is the - date, and tt could he packed in J ' , silver net of .which I have aheady ' small compass without being , spoken. That used in the little dano- hopelessly rumed. : Then, too, it was : iti fnvlt shown her waa ambroldV' eeomlnc to i most women In She' '''.('. iry 1 ered in my own' workrooms, the de- evening. Thm may seem Strang sign oeing my own. ' Tae srae orap n-vt very true tan nme oui or isn nimmea wim oanas of black r': cry which completes the costume is .'women find aa sU-Uack ; costume ; fur, are .excesslrely.' modish. i , f 'a supple crepe in the most dollcate . most becoming when it Is cut reryi; Fabrics where' broadwhit rr -i , shade- of lavender. " low. There to hope that next Spring r stripes alternate : with ; broad ' vCblfcin)iropSldrt . The headdress Is as ooalnt and as there will be a revival of this practK. black stripes are much in ds tewitchtng as the gown, and ths cal gown, and already 1 am thinking i mand. Ths stripes, f by,; the , wbols affair to, 1 think.' simply per of several designs that should put it . way. : must be , used tip . an4J j " leci iot UIB wtuurow w ug veoir . uav ui ui&u avi vuw uiviw j , .uvmr-iw lraiinii. i. v :i v - V J " hnti aT thn rnmine Masoa:- ;f 'Ms'! Black and white to.' however, wenr? , The TOtmre wnm An n ..." -. f , I am, exceedingly. Interested 'and much li .rogue; 1 But It must be a- the girls, who are even now also surprised to find that the wonv most etriking combination, ! and ths ; ordering w. their coming-out an of fashion has resigned herself - gown , must be most - daringly,' de gowns, are favoring the new most gracefully to the fact that aU-J; signed. Black velvet combined wla Plato bott to eBk and .velvet i' t - a! Jl Apple Green Velvet, Showing the Uiifion Bodice With out the Coat k . v 3 f 1 ;1 t".'''-''- ""v..' - :. . ( .,.'......; '. I ft' . -!! .. V' - - :-., J : K ' ; , 7 v V-,'.v-Svl r-.v-'. - . i J I ' " '' ' f' 1 ' -" f ' ' I I - . As f asMss IseiU" l l 1 ' SflWtpapMW ST,' ( I IMS sad . J Lady Dof-GordWs Parity :V Ci-'' tsMiiluaeiit briaff hw into dots '"v.; V 1 V ' s) leech wife dtat ecsve el fstL. ' I ' f Isa . " ' . , I - 'I Ls Dntfides Wi1 V Vs ' ess wuMJunem k at No. 37 7 A ' 39 W4 Fif ty-Kmlb ttree '"' Nw Yejks . . f V law ' ' ' ' " I I -' r 1 Y . ; ADY DUFF-CORDOJd. me f amoss aaak el Lbados, sadfi cnaM el I aahioM b (ha wwldL . wAm each week tta (mLSob a- cle for d atsnsg aO SMI la bad is yW rW wcBraMd s i Debutante. Dahdna Gown of Lavender Cimm and I - " ' J i4.u n tt' : . e P-JT' Tt- 'A Wr';-;;v-.;fi;v " 1 ' ' ronvrlKht. ISIS, hv tha StA ComniBT. flnmt BrlUJik JUvbtMKiaarT.a. " V , , . ' ' .i i i.-!,"?.'t-'.:t- ' i:'' t'h 'K Vr M'-i'; :jl .V fc "" . 3 I