, , : THE OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL, ;. PORTLAND. SUNDAY MORNING, , AUGUST, 17, 1013 "- Concerning Health and beauty 'ijSK' ijfetyWjB8Bhc.- ; : By Mrs- Henry Symes ..ajjgiiggg - EVERT dar I flunber of un healthy, WMk-looklny women on th street and in. the care, and I cannot help wondering why H la that they allow themeelvea to become round-ehouldered, hollow cheated and crooked of back when It la In every woman's power to keep herself Jn arood physical condition If she wtil arlve ten minutes avery day to the proper, exercises. Not long; ago I ventured to ask a little woman who had allowed herself to become run down and round-shouldered) from neglect, why she did not brace up and do something to Improve her appeanance. The answer I received amused, while It also dlsguted me. 6ald she: "Why, I oan't afford dumbbells or Indian clubs and these expensive ex ercisers that are attached to the wall, and unless you have the right kind of ADVICE ON SOCIAL CUSTOMS iu fof&J jC hvJitKMtJ If a personal reply ! desired, a elf addresied stamped envelope should be Inclosed. - PUNCTUALITY s OMH one has called punctuality "the politeness of princes." It also belongs to all who would pride themselves on an adherence to rules that have the consideration of others for their basis. That is the Important thing, my dear readers there must be a guiding star of un selfishness If your conduct is to be of the highest type. How often have I seen an entire room full of guests kept waiting for a delinquent one who has a habit of arriving late. The habit of being be hind an appointed time is unpardon able. If you are addicted to this) ex pression of thoughtlessness and care- tessness, It Is time you begin to re form. At a formal dinner party at which a certain hour has been mentioned, the guests should arrange to arrive ten or fifteen minutes beforehand, to remove wraps, be Introduced to others and to have a short talk with. wun dinner J minute Id Join I the host and hostess. The should be announced on the and guests wtoo are late should the party at the table after being greeted by the hostess and extending an excuse that, of course, must be SOLUTIONS TO SOCIAL PROBLEMS W earing Mourning DEAR Mrs. Atiams. How long should a widow and daughter wear mourning T Do you think one should so to a plo ture theater while In mouriilnsT , NELLIE L. A widow who wishes to follow the con ventional rules of mourning should wear the widows bonnet and long veil; and crepe de chine, lusterless silk, etc., may be worn, with hats trimmed with black, ribbon, black flowers, black chiffon or dull Jet. ornaments. When eighteen months have pasjed, white and lilac touches may be added to re lieve the black, and after two years have expired colors may be resumed. If the daughter is extremely young she should not wear heavy mourning. (For her a black hat trimmed with crepe and a small face veil of plain black net with a broad border of crepe, a black dress, gloves, etc., are proper for the first six months or year. After that, the crepe should be removed and white worn with the black. In the summer all white may be worn during the mourning period by young women. 'While wearing deep mourning it would hardly be appropriate to attend places of amusement. TheUshers Pear Mrs. Adams. is it the bride's duty to appoint the ushers at a church weddlns? MAY. It is customary for the bridegroSm to appoint the ushers from among his own friends, but frequently he also Invites Che bride's brother or some male rela tive to aot as usher.- The Engagement Ring pear Mrs. Adams. I am a man In moderate circumstances and should like to know what kind of an engagement ring- I should give to a girl who has promised to marrynie Tou should not tax your resources to buy the ring. A ring set with your sweetheart's births tono -or her fa vorite stone or a plain band ring, would be very- much)' appreciated by ber. Kissing Is Not Necessary Dear Mrs. Adams. t , Kindly inform me whether It is neces sary for the groom to kiss his bride after the ceremony and before the audi, ence in the church. A ItBADLR. This custom is not observed any more. 'Such expressions of affection are reserved for private delectation. Asking a Man to Call . Pear Mrs. Adams. la it proper for a young woman to in vite a man to call on her, or should the man ask to callT M so, after how many .nestings may she ask hlmt EljaAN0R It is proper for a young woman to take the initiative In asking a man to call, but this invitation should nbt be given - until , after two or more meetings. Many girls, however, dislike to take this step and wait for the mam to ask permission to call. 'Desires Popularity Dear Mrs. Adams ,., Please tll me how 1' eould bseomw popular. People never sm to care for war opinion about things, and when I -m at parties X am not popular. I am not bashful, but greatly enioy the eooletir of older people. I do not care especially for people of mjr own agtf. - I expeot to go to Germany and study muslo for about three menths. I have a decided talent How may I seoure 4nstruelon from an expert toachert T fur vim ara a little hit "too sensi tive and imagine you are less popular appliances there Is -no tfse to try to be good looking; and straight" "My dear woman." X replied, "you don't have to have anything of the sort to keep yourself In good condi tion. All you have to do Is to prac tice faithfully every day certain sim ple exercises that will develop the most Important muscles In your body, and remember to stand and walk In an erect position." No, woman need go outsldo her home for "the proper 'Implements for exercises.' They are at hand In every i home; simple articles In use every I day In every household. I Take an ordinary dining-room chair, for -, example, a light-weight wooden chair, and . y have the means of going through a course of exercises that will bring straight limbs, strength and health to any one who will give as Utile as ten minutes a day to them. a very strong one. Usually, lteness at any formal affair of this kind Is inexcusable. If an invitation be extended to you by a gentleman to take you to a dance or to the theater you should arrange to be ready when he arrives. He. of course, should plan his' time to arrive conveniently early. He should certainly not be kept waiting very long while a woman sees how late she can be. , I have known some young girls to arrange deliberately to b late, so as ' to be seen walking down the aisle of a church or a theater. If they oniy knew how decidedly their actions stamp them as bourgeois, which op probrium they are trying to escape. They are trying, Xoattract attention and to make a show, which is never an evidence of refinement They are also putting others to great' Incon venience, which is inconsiderate. If you arrange to have a friend call on you at half-past 8 o'clock, be ready for him. He should not be al lowed to sit alone In the room where you entertain friends while you are adding a few touches to your toi lette. You should be ready to re ceive a caller, to introduce him to your mother and father and to ex tend to him a punctual hospitality. punctuality in letter writing is also an important thing. When a letter is received asking you for Informa tion, answer it immediately. When a Question is asked, give a polite, punctual reply. It is a sign of con sideration. Stay out of bed a few minutes iat rJse a llttl p0 not let your bad h minutes later in order to do this or e earlier in the morning. t delinquency be one or habits. It is never too late to begin to form a good habit. Is punctuality one of jour habits? If not. make It one. than you really are. It is not meant that every one of us should 'be a social belle, but we can make ourselves so amiable that our presence will always be desired. Possibly you dK not express t your opinions in a modest way. You will find that people do not care for the' person who has decided opinions and has no time for the opinions ot oriiers. 'Be a good listener and be will ing to loin in any fun proposed. The best thing for you to do Is to ask your teacher to recommend a good Bchool or teacher In Germany. Marriage of the Employer " Dear Mrs. Adams. I have been employed for one month as a stenographer for a man who Is going to be married very soon, filiall I give him a wedding preeentr MARY. Under' such conditions it Would not be advisable to give a wedding gift As your dealings with the man, . are of a business nature it is better not to Introduce the social element. A Call of Condolence Dear Mrs. Adams. What Is the proper time to call on a friend who has lost her faihei ? I left my card as soon as the funeral was an nounced. MARIE. A call of condolence should be made ten days or three weeks after tba funeral. . A Man's Card Dear Mrs. Adams, is It proper for a man to have his nl.'kname printed on a visiting card? - Should the addreos be mentioned? - A HBADBR. Nicknames and contractions of names should not be engraved on a man's vlBitlng card. The home address, but not a business address, may appear on a visiting card. Breaking an Engagement Dear Mrs. Adams. Do you think It Is proper for a girl who has promised to got to a place of amuse ment with a young man to break the en gagement T In the case mentioned the parents axe not willing for the girl to go. SARAH K. Quite proper under euch clrcum Stances. I am sure the young man will understand the situation If you give the reason for breaking the en gagement A Home Wedding 'Dear Mrs. Adams. In planning for a simple home wedding to tke place la the evening, I find there are many things of which I am lvoorant. Will jou kind ly sue me answers to the following queetioosf 1. Is It correct for the mother of the bride to wear black silk when a Tell la Worn by the brldef ' i , 2. Whet It an sttrtctiTe! war to war the veil! . 3. What it the correct dress for the groom f 4. Must the wedding dress bare high neck and long sleeTeil i. Should wedding announcements or invita- tiona o lent to Pfraona who 11? too fr awaj to attend the eaotngr When should they be sent? I.Tel. 2. The newest veil is the one of tulle reaching just to the waist line: Around the shirred crown have a wreath of your favorite white flower of a small variety, and have the tulle pleated In a narrow, scant ruffle around the edge of the crown. 3. The bridegroom should wear even ing drees when the ceremony Is per formed after o'clock. ' 4. No. The low neck and short sleeves are roore in evidence in the wedding gown than the high neck and long sleeves. However, a bride is at liberty . to wear whichever la most becoming to bar. . - : 6. Bend wedding Invitations two week before the date of the ceremony, In the first place. It Is Important to stand erect, with the chest high, the abdomen held In and the hips in & straight line with your shoulders. Grasp the chalrback and, holding it with both hands at arm's length straight out in front of you, swing It around from left to right, right to left, keeping the feet firmly on the floor. Then take one step forward with the right foot as you swing the chair, then with the left foot, until you have made five sweeping circles with the chair. Unless you are very strong, you will not be able to do this the first or second' time you try it. It will very likely take several days' exercise to accomplish this feat, but once getting It, you will ver soon be aware "of the great benefit the exercise Is doing you in the way of strengthening the muscles of your back and arms. For the arms, ehqulders and wrists, stand erect and lift the chair from the floor until it Is straight out in front of you. Lower it to the floor and lift It again. Repeat five times. That, too,- will not be easy at first, but you can do it if you try persistently. Another exercise that gives poise to the entire body l to lift the chair shoulder high at arm's length straight out from the side of the body. Repeat five times with each arm. At once you will feel the muscles of your back and neck, as well as those of your arms, wrists and bands, being brought Into play and strengthened. A very excellent general exercise, that which brings into action all the muscles bf the body, especially those of the shoulders, back and hips, is to He flat on an ordinary kitchen table and. with your arms above your head, grasp the DacK of tne chair nrmiy wun ANSWERS REPLIES to letters to the writer of this department will be printed In regular order; but no replies in print may be expected in less than three or four weeks. Correspondents desiring immediate replies to queries may get them by Inclosing a stamped self-addressed envelope. Personal inquiries will re- ceive prompt attention if accompanied by a stamped and self-addressed en velope. For the Elbows Dear Mrs. Byrnes. 1 Will you kindly tell rfis what I can do to improve my elbows? HANNAH. Scrub the elbows with a fleshbruah and use plenty of soap and water. Kdnse the skin and rub Into it cocoa butter. Do- not form the habit of lean ing on-the elbows." Th weight on them Is sure, to harden the skin and make it coarse and red. The Effect of Brushing Pear Mrs. Byrnes. , Do you think that brushing the hair will help to keep it clean? KATHERINB. The dally brushing of the hair will help to keep it clean and in a healthy condition. Separate the hair In strands and brush down the seam made by the separation. Then with a silk handkerchief rub the scalp and the hair. The handkerchief will remove much of the dirt and will give a pretty glosa to the hair. . , It is quite necessary to keep the hairbrush la a clean condition if the -. --;.?-t. '.. k$W X X 'l V A 5r .1 V 1 . I help to bring tne Mpa down to normal XXV I V U N 11 I ' U f i not lt for any ret lwth hands, then slowly nrt t aoove yoar head, over the body until It rests on the knees. At the same time raise the feet until the legs are in a straight line. -with the body. ' . ' . This, too. Is a rather difficult exercise, but when once accomplished will give strength, to every muscle in the body. If all the muscles are strong and well developed, the body will naturally bei erect and In perfect harmony with the lines of beauty and grace. . Tou may vary the exercises each day by giving the time to one or two of them, then the next day practicing the others, There you have the ways and means of developing all the muscles of your body with no expense and by giving only a few minutes a day to this most Important self -Improvement r t ; wris far M?BtcfC TO BEAUTY hafr Is to bo kept so. Once a week cleanse the brush in water to which ammonia has been added. Rinse the bristles thoroughly and place the brush bristles down to dry. To Whiicnthe Teeth Dear Mrs. Symea. My teeth look very yellow, and occasion ally my breath has an awlul odor. Please advise me what to do. A READER. It may be that your teeth are cover ed with tartar. If this is the case you need look no further for the cause of the bad breath. You should cleanse thetoeth with diluted peroxide and rinse the mouth with it. mouthwash that will Another- good sweeten inc. breath is made of: Phenol- Doric acid Thymol (in crystal).... Essence of menthol.... Tincture of anise Distilled water , IS 16 grains drams grains to drops ..... ZVi drums S pints VSi wit llov fe - fi i - Rime the mouth with the above, wbleh -should be diluted for usa In ' the .proportion of one-half toothwash to same quantity of clear wati. Use after each men I and at ; any time "enquired. Visit the dentist twice a year. Poor Circulation Dear Mrs. Byrnes. My face la very pale, due, I think, to poor circulation of the blood. Do you think walking would help me? KL8IB. There la no better exercise than walking for the, person whose circu lation Is poor, and whose face is pale. In order to make It beneficial as an exercise. It should be done quickly and briskly so as to bring Into play the muscles of the body. Tou should sleep at least- eight or --, ... ... - 7 n QUERIES nine hours every nlgtrt Too little sleep la often responsible for pallor. A plain simple diet should be fol lowed. Avoid the rich foods and eat those that digest well and give nour ishment. ,. A Curling Lotion Dear Mrs. Byrnes. Will you please give me the recipe for a halr-curllng lotion? Also give me the recipe for a tonic to be used on hslr which is very dry. WINIFRED. Here are the recipe you desire: Hair-Curling- Lotion Potassium carbonate 120 grains Ammonia water 1 fluid dram Alcohol 13 fluid drama Rosewater enough to make If fluid ounces. In using, moisten the hair, adjust It loosely, and it will curl upon drying. Oil of Sweet Jasmine a Hair oil.) . Scentless castor oil.... S ounces Coanut oil --..r.-,.T... J - ounce - Oil of rosemary , 1 junce,. Oil of Jasmine H dram-V Mix oils with gentle heat. Bottle. Shake for live minutes. r 4 To Reduce Jhe Hips Dear Mra Bymee. Kindly tell me what to do to reduce.jSo hips. , AUiS. etooplng exercises will do much to reduce the hips if they are. practiced regularly. Stand erect, and then bend to a sitting position. JUse and repeat the movement until you begin to feel fatlgua Then stop. Exercises con tinued after the feeling of fatigue do more harm than good. Running and. brisk walking wOl also Fallinq Hair , Dear Mrs. Byrnes. Please give me the recipe for a tonlo that I may use on my bsir, which la falling out. EDNA. Castor oil rubbed Into the scalp will frequently prevent the hair from fall ing. If this does not help in your case try the tonlo for 'Which the recipe is here given: For railing- Hair Cologne Tincture of cantharldes Oil of English lavender Oil of rosemary 1 ounces 1 ounce dram v H dram Apply to the roots of the hair once or twice a day. It Is positively neceaaary that the scalp should be kept clean, Shampoo at least once a week. Cold Feet Dear Mrs. Byrnes. Can you tell me why 4t Is that I sutler with cold feet? The rest of my body is quite warm. K. L r, A poor circulation of the blood will cause cold feet. You should exercise dally for an hour in the fresh air." Bathe the feet with cold water and then rub them well to stimulate the circulation. For the Nails Dear Mrs. Byrnes, Please tell me what to do for nails which are very brittle. FLORENCE. Olive oil or cold .cream, applied to the nails will make them less brittle. Another remedy is the paste for which I am giving you the recipe: Paste for Brittle Finger Nails Take equal parts of refined pitch and myrrh, or of turpentine and myrrh melted. Mix together and spread upon the nails at night. Remove In the morning with a little olive oil. This paste will nourish the nails and make them stronger. Oily Hair Tl.ar Mm Hvm My hair Is dlsarreeablv ollv. Will vou pleuse give me 'the recipe for a lotion which I mav ime on It? D, O. A very splendid recipe which you mnv use on your hair is made of the following: Powdered bicarbonate of ' soda J4 ounce Horate of soda, powdered.. 14 ounce Esu de cologne 1 fluid ounce Alcohol 3 fluid ounoea Distilled water 18 fluid ounces Mix and agitate until solution is com plete. If used dally. It tends to produce a crlsDy condition. An Egg Shampoo Deer Mrs. Byrnes. Will vou please tell me how to make an era shampoo? GRACE. Following are the directions for making the obit shampoo: To half a cake of pure white castile soaje add a pint of rainwater. Set on the stove and beat until the aoap is perfect-, ly dissolved. To this add an egg which has been thoroughly whipped with an eggbeater, stirring it into the mixture with the beater to prevent curdling. Add 1-3 of a teaapoonful of borax and a teaspoonful of alcohol to preserve the shampoo. Wheit ready to shampoo the hair, rub well Into the scalp and rinse in several clear waters, using a bath spray if you have one. A Hair Tonic Deer Mrs. Byrnes. Will vou pleese rive me the recloe for a harmless hair tonic? How often should one wash a hair brush? CLARA. following is the recipe for a very good hair tonic: Jaborandl Tonic Quinine sulphate Tincture or canthsrldes.... Fluid extract of jaborandl Almhnl 20 grains . 1 fluid ounce 3 fluid drams 2 fluid ounces) '.ilvcerln . I ounce Bav Turn f fluid ounce Rosewater II fluid ounce The quinine should be dissolved in the al coholic Hutmis dv warming sngiwiv. yien the other Ingredients addeaand I th whole filtered. Rub into the roots ot the hair every night. The hairbrush la usually In need of cleansing once a Week. Ammonia in water will cleanse the, brush. Do not let th back of the brush get into the solution, .When all of the dirt is re moved, rinse the bristles with- clean water. Then place the brush, bristles down, to dry. . -i . A Dry Shampoo Dear Mrs. Byrnes. - Will you pleas tell me how often the hair should be washed? My hair Is blonde. Will .orrii root make the hair liaht and fluffyf How should It be Used? Will vou also tell m'. how to make a dry shampoo and how to USU? READER. The half should be washed ae often s necessary. It is Important to dry 'the hair thoroughly after water has been used on it - , Orris root will not make the hair light, but It will remove superfluous oil and. make it fluffy., - A mixture of equal parts of orrl root -and corn meal is a splendid dry sham poo. A satisfactory way to apply Ml to the hair is to put it in a talcum powder box and sprinkle it ever the head. Then brush the hair thoroughly. Rubbing a sfclk handkerchief over the . hair, after dividing it in strands, will , cleanse it and give an attractive gloss. For Freckles' Dear lira Byrnes; Will yon please give me a remedy for freckles T ANXIOUS. Lemon Juice applied to freckles will , help slightly. If this does not prove, satisfactory, in your case, try the remedy for which I am giving the recipe: Lemon and Glycerin Lotion Citrlo add (lemon) I drams Hot water , 11 ounoes Borax 1 drams Red rose petsjs ., 1 ounce Glycerin 1 ounce Dissolve the add and borax in the water; Infuse the petals- for an hour: strain through, a dell, bag after twenty-four ' hours: decant trie clear portion and and , the glycerin. Apply as often as agreeabla A Dandruff Cur Dear Mrs. fiymes. . Will you please give me the reclpefot a dandruff cure? UNSIGNED. The sulphur owe baa proved most successful In many cases. To an ounce , of sulphur add a quart of soft water, . and during intervals of several days, agitate the mixture repeatedly. After the sulphur has settled to the bottom of the receptacle .use the clear liquid. " Saturate the head with It every morn ing, and In a few weeks every trace of dandruff will have disappeared. The .'. hair will become soft and glossy, and there will be no return of the) old trouble. This remedy, however, grill darken, light hair. . , To Darken the Lashes and Brows - Dear Mrs. Byrnes. "" ' I would like to know what to use to . darken the eyelashes and eyebrows T A HEADER. Tou will find the eyebrow pencil the) most satisfactory thing to use to darken -. the eyebrows and eyelashea Tou oaa buy the pencil at almost any drUgl store. , ' A Growth of Hair Dear sirs, eymes. I should like to know what to do to fO move a. arrowlh of hair on the lips and . arms? Marie jb. To remove tho hairs permanently thai electric needle should be used. Go to V, reliable operator to have the work done. To ReducTthe Hips Dear Mrs. Symeav Please tell me what exercises to prae tlca to reduce the hips? ADA, , To Reduce the Hipi 1. Bring the knee ud to the chest, f malnlnr perfectly erect, fraotio la alter nate movements. ... .. 2. Place bands on .hips, shoulders well . back. Raise tne leg, "with knee flexed, and atve a high, auick side kick, bringing the -, foot back again to the floor. Repeat tea times, first with the right foot, then wlta tne left. . . - 3. Take standing position, hands on hips, and rotate the hips, bending the knees ano) , keeping the chest and shoulders Immov able. Contract all the musoles Used Is) this exercue and resist. . - Bending exercises also are good;. " To Reduce the Waist " Dear Mrs. Byrnes. n - I should like very much to reduce .m , waist measurement. Pleas tell me ho., this can be done. , ANNA. Deep breathing will help reduce thf waist measure and enlarge the busb The stretching exercises, too, are splendid as waist depleters. Raise the arms high above the head; then, hold lng knees straight, try to touch the floor with the fingertips. Stand erect, place hands on hips; bend from waist as far as possible to the right,, th to the left A Cleansing Cream . . Dear Mrs. Byrne. Will you pleas give me the reelp fo a cleansing cream" AGMS, - A splendid cleansing cream la made of the following: Cleansing Cream. Whit wax Spermaceti 1 Sweet almond oil.... ...., 1 wise ounce unoeg - untmea water. ounces uiyoenn ................ Saltcyllo acid ..... v giauie Moles on the Fact Dear Mrs. Symes. t v I bav two mole en myfao. and I am most anxious to get rid of them. Bom on advised in t burn theia off y .with an aold. Do you approve of this , - plant . , . Mui.LT. - I do not a reprove of any ilan othar than a treatment from a moat rekable doctor. -.Too often experiments wiqr such things meet with sad' result Talcum Powder ?UeVlvnm' th dlrtlen for msk. lng a good, harmless taleuw powd"1; , . I : Jkl A lis (! ' A harmlsss "and very" excellent W eum powder man oi; Rlc fleur H Talcum ..... .......,. J r r.Li f sins. ......... . 1 mi' OH'.. euu Mix thoroughly and ! twtr hroii( In belting silk, rerfume to teat. j.