"J - .:. ffv. THE OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL. PORTLAND. SUNDAY MORNING. AUGUST 17. 19., f . fT 8 !4 ' SiM"T (' 1 r T t Ui- my ' An V V 1 Early Autumn Modes Which Show the Toward Mannish Effects in Smartest Tailored Costumes LADY DUFF-GORDON, the faraou "Lucile" of London, and foremost creator of fashions in the world, writes each week the fashion article for this newspaper, presenting all that is newest and best in styles for well-dressed women. Lady Duff-Gordon's Paris establifhroent brings her into close touch with ., that centre of fashion. ,; ' Lady Duff-Gordon's American establishment is at Nos. 37 and 39 West Fifty-seventh street. New kX York nil '5Xitt' 5n 4 -.""-iiiV( 1 , J 1 7 Ill M Stunning Tailored Cotrume Showing die Flowered Waistcoat and the New Chiffon Tunic. By Lady Duff-Gordon ("Lucile"). ARIS has eriently rovn a note the doodle-breasted effect -which bit weary of the eternal feminine, and there is a trend toward the masculine In Che early Autumn costumes. There Is so smart There are two little points similar to those on the men's evening waistcoats. The whole cos tume is. I tblnk delightful. It Is Is a certain boyish touch that is very brocade eponge. The curious little charming, I think, and I am glad to note that the redundant frilllness of the present mode is to be toned down somewhat. Of course, I am devoted to the feminine myself In clothes and tunic of accordion pleated chiffon ts one of the very smartest touches. These tunics are very popular with the mondalnes whose figures' are slenderly youthful. The coat worn mm J j 5 iiLl I 7 ? 1 l f thr'v"r ,- J n Quaint Afternoon Costume y of Rose Votk and White Charmeuse. Showing the New Draped Skirt. manners, and 1 deplore much of the wlto this Is one of the many Russian rampant strenuousnss of the pres ent, but, after all, the Summer is the tbne for frills, and wnen the Aufumn blouse models with which we have been Inundated the past year. The manner in which the sleeves are fin- comes with Its more serious work and ished is, however, new, and I think pleasures one should dress a little more severely. There Is nothing at all nun-like In rather unusuaL Worn with this Is one of the piquant Tarn o' Shanter hats of velvet which promise to be the new costumes. They are tailored ?ery much.worn this Winter. of course, but not too severely. Their masculinity 13 shown in the waist coats with Which nine out of ten of the Fall tailleurs are fluted. In the past when we wanted to say o. some woman that she was utterly mascu line we have said that she wore the breeches. To-day we might say that she wears the waistcoat The most Important thine about the new waistcoat I do hope that The second waistcoat costume Is of hunter's green velvet, and the waistcoat is a charming but some what cubist effect in green and red velvet The turn-back collar on the waistcoat is one of the, new touches which when added to a gown mean so -much, and the adorable handbag of green taffeta needs no praise; it is so perfect And now just as a fillip to this dls- none of yon ever call this a vest) Is eertatlon on clothes 1 shall send you that 4t can be made of some highly the picture of a quaint little gown colored fabric contrasting with the that I designed for a recent bride, costume Itself or that, it can be high- It is one of those semi-transparent ly decorative in effect The gay and affairs which have captured Paris, vari-colored cretonnes and velvets are Vienna and even New York, 1 hear. ery effective, and are perhaps more The under body Is of charmeusa and modish than any other fabric. Next lace, white of course. The curiously In importance to the fabric used Is Involved drapery for that la all the the style chosen, for there are many upper skirt Is and the bodice are , different kinds, each one Just as of embroidered voile. The colors pretty as the other. 1 am sending ' are rose and white, and the crushed you two examples of the waistcoat girdle Is of rose silk. The hat you costume that I like very much, have seen before, but nerer a back They were won at Auteuil the other view, tin I Am aan Alitor ft-Vi I a wnn cay. antrwere admired exceedingly. to see for yourself how the roses are Velvet Costume, with Single-Breasted Waistcoat -Deaf theseoumM you will arranged,, . and Eton Jadet; Also New Taffeta Handbag, The Brighter Side of Turkey Trotting 1 rMi.i ' mm -1 WH.?' Ml i' "'fT"l. ni. X f 1 .. at T K i I XV K" a- A3 if'X ir'h '' i i J5v x or i