OREGON SUNDAY. JOURNAL, ITLAIID, SUNDAY HORNING, DECEMBER-. S, 1312 For thdNDUSTRlQU S NpMEWOMAN By Adelaide Byrd c """iSisw r SfeTAPOTW -r f. 35 Interesting point ttwutthli de . ' I'v sign, tny friends, Is th tact that J- J1 ca ambrolderthi fancy . ', work . acron ia about an hour. , frfclnk how many of thee dainty gift . you can make tor friend woo r of v yie great circle of embroiderer, who ; preside at th chafing diih or who pre-' for to protect the front of dresses by J - tylni a dainty washable apron In front! :: ' I hevof .have een any woman who : wai not extremely pleased with little ' apron at 4 glftj and if you ar undo. elded about handmade present for a friend, make one of the and watch-'.:.'" the effect t There ! such 4 wide field of fabric! ; ,, from which to ehooee that the expense i w ' ia virtually matter of choice. Plain . handkerchief linen, fine lawn, batlsteV, 1 barred muslin, dimity or dotted wl v a variety in sty lea and price. The : - apron (a eighteen inchea at ita greatest length on the atralght of the goods.. ' One i and one-eighth yards will easily . make two aprona if you have ribbon ' atrinfa. - Tou wlli notice that the design la very -v-: j simple. It la decidedly effective when done ia colon on the whit good. , ' Choose alik or mercerised cotton of a -, coarser quality if qulclt work be your aim. rink with pink ribbon aeema to - be the favorite color.b.ut blue or.yeltow - is good, while a mixture of blue, yellow -- and plfik la suggestive of th pomp. , dour work that we admire in the dainty . ribbon roses that, havr come bar k to us, . ' And there's a happy thought! Why not . - use the exquisite narrow ribbon that . has been employed in the embroidery on net. silk and lace, making one strand of the ribbon form a petal of the flower? One half of the apron Is shown. The central line is on the atralght fold of the goods. When cutting, -allow for a narrow hem around the sides and curved linos. The line that shows the aide section ia merely . au guide line for placing Insertion, beading or a la.ee ruf fle. If you do not Intend to trim aloof , this line, omit It in the tracing. The flowers can be done in ribbon -work aa supgeated, or in the lesy-datsy etlteh, which, la merely a loop of thread caught down at the end by a eme.Il titan. Work the center solid. Even quicker 14 completion, though giving a moreopn effect. I a single atralght etlteh ef thread over each line. Our old friend, the-bullion stitch.' ia .'fsry effective. It washes well and If anything, widens out attor laundering. Thi etlteh la a iW fYench Jtnol The needle ia inserted a the base, brought out and the thread wound around the point many tlmea. Thi fleedlt Is then pulled throug-h the coll and In serted quickly at the other end of the line. It Is passed on the wrong aide of v f the goods to the base of the next petal ' and the proceea repeated. A separate piece for the pocket should J be cut, allowing for the turned-t edges. . Embroider It "before basting and stitch- . In it In place. After rolllnar the edgea, . whip on a. ruffle of lace. The lace can be drawn into folds aa you go. bg tak- ., Ing one of the Straight thread It the selvog and using It as a drawing thread. Sew the lace around the outer edge.. '!'., . . '4 , , - , Insertion and lace . make the apron even daintier. Lace beading call be ap plied on the aide line, through which fin ribbon should be run, ending In a bow or rosette at the bottom, v Batiste or awlsa beading, one inch wide, form a durable band. Through thla ribbon can be passed, the ends aerv- In as strings. - . Rome women prefer a atraKht ribbon band made by 4 doubled ribbon, be sure to hold the curved white lawn toward you when basting It on the atralght edge. White band and tie are alwaya dainty. ' They are just ) much la favor aathe colored ribbon. .-, For the engaged girl, tho married woman, the embroiderer or the woman , about the house, what can be better than this pretty glftT Tou will be grateful for the opportunity of having 4 happy solution of th wbat-shallel. . give question. Hi 'Xl 4 J T ' V, I ! x.". . xr. yli '.' 'vrr'. .r y .,:: '-'.-v - . :- v. y. ' :, v 0a . S, 'w. PQ&TTiC 2WMG BAG OV ? bur&iu dcmr EVERTT and ui y In iVBRTTHINfJ ia th way unique embroidery Is atronf- vogua All fieedJewortten are constantly searching for omathlaff new and Interesting la the Mm of artlatio etltchery. Occasionally there wtU be some entirely hew Idea brought ut, tout the revival of an aid atHch. la sew form I to ail Intents and pUrpoee quite aa satisfactory aa a Utberta un known trick in handling the needle, The tapestry stitch t ancient of usage but ia modern form altogether delight fut In these ttrenuout day of raplA Br tog, women do not have tha time Is de vote to making elaborate tapeatriea M did their ancestors. Xowadaya we wa&t quick work, work that 1 eaay and quksldy accomplished, and yet bat the appearance of being quite elaborate. The new tapestry embroidery auppllee just that need, for in it we have the atamped pattern colored In varying tlnta aad ahadea that pteate thi eye bf the : observer. - " ; The Unea followaa are those ol eonventlonat - deatgna, and the color tones eo wide in variety that they, caanoji hall) but pleast .all tats ' When ' executing a i fltchery, black er mer cerized cotton l used la outlining the line Of the pattern, and often In the velnlftg of leave. Then the long, uneven Uestry stltoheat F :.. . : - .-. " .' SSswsssssesaess ' 1 '''itA V : 'li'i fmryi ' v ; - 1-Mii.n . ii m iii J "" fi.V-0 . JUW'jUttM'i-'.'. '.iM'i'iM "I am, ; 4"' - i '',r -;?4''X I V rm COUCH CUSHION dona in heavier silk or aotton la eolort'J Thla also i bt heavy, loosely woven matching or oorrespondlng with the linen. The vogue now la to trim -the oolort In tbo design. . v i f ''"ends'; of J tuchloMbng- cushion : wlttt Oreeft la the predominating color tn fringe. Ton can use linen, allk or rner the bureau' scarf here illustrated. Park , certsed cotton fringe, the silk, of course, green shading off into pale leaf tone 4r worked, wttlt those aame shade of Hk, Wh.il the background I done in the palest fhada of green, Thi on natural-eoiored tinea I - bemeiy effeotlv. In maklnf thesUtche 4 Straight lln4 is followed aeroa the material, then fcarailal line! follow thla. Tbo vtttohe ar atwut an eighth ef an -. inoh in length or a little longer and a very ahort apace left between aach Natural-colored rose tone, with dark green foliage, are uaed in the design on the oovca cushion. , ..-.: on pillow cover made of aUken mate : rial. . , Stencil design ran b need to advaa tago for thla work, for after the dye hav dried thoroughly their outline! may ba worked with black or dark- colored silk and the interior flUed la With the Upestry atltch. ' rAnythlhg deoorated In thla way wonift ! uiaa.o iw enracuve gin 10 a inena was -loves artlstla eeoratlona In hnr fwvma. ? - Or if you have a masculine friend, tha ' Tllllnxr nr hU mm arnnM )i ' ola atudy or den, , , . : ; r The top and bottom of the choker are ' encircled with narrow band of black eatln. and tied la smart fiat bows la front Then sew a row of tiny black eatln buttons down the front and tha choker ia completed, " Make the cuff la the earn manner, but use lining of unboned net . A most attractive sailor - collar can b mad from bits of embroidery and lace, eo aearoh your treasure bootee and . " . bring forth the hoarded bit of real . , , , , . ' . . - , . lac and fine handwork. ' I of dollar to indulge ier taste, unles lf heve an old-fashioned turn ehe use her flncer to faahloa the latest y. over collar and ouff et, conWer your, fanclea aelf lucky. 1 Hare are a few pretty article wnlcn -Cut a collar of paper, fitting it care- iny one can mane irom scrape. ' uny aoouc tne neoK line. Sha broidery, wrong aid up, on the pattern and proceed to tew the edgea together.' . When thla la accomplished, cut away -the matertal from beneath the laoa bor , der so that It will be sheer. Bind the) r neck line with 4 hlaa band, ahd the col-'!' - lar will . ba ready to adorn your one- ' t piece frock.: -'-".y Consider the Tunic NBAALX four yean ago, wha tunlo drapertet irit mad theW appearance on m t h evening gowns, many people eon aidered than juat pasalng fancy, 4 1 h would disappeaJr With the first change ia fash ion. ...-...-..'.-. - These keptloal one were mistaken. The tunio had eom to atayi and It la here, modified and glorified, to a great extent, differing- from the original In many ways, yet a graceful and beautiful aa of yore. Present-day tunics con form strictly to the line of the gown Itself. While ' some- of them are draped slightly, the majority are simply oversklrts, cut Often by the pattern of the akirt Itself. Long tunics, short tunics, tunics with lines mom fled In countless way are the day's offering,' and . whether the whole separate, tunlo is bought at any price that you care to spend- or incor porated with the dress, it la tha main feature of the gown, especially the . evening gown. Beads, iewels, embroidery inthread andoirse silks, and ribbon work done in exqulslie floral designs are the prin cipal means of decorating the tunle, and after you have once planned the fouriaattori bf neV tulle, chiffon or lacs it Is not-at all difficult to add the touch of hand work for which you would pay great sums it you bought the models. Onaj lace tunlo the design woven in the net can be used for the guide lines , tt flat embroidery lit heavy silk floss. ". mi In the petals of each flower and )U- tnch a Jewel to the center of it Jlve , the leaves a coarse outlining with green thtead, letting th blossoms burst Out tn'.lhelf., colors from the net, ' Another effpctlve way to trim a tuhlo is to'use'iarlands'ot little buds made) tv . n. lrtlnur th rndrMh thrpfl1 arOUnd a center ant building Up on Itself a rose jeweB can be bougbx at a price 4 low a S cents . string. The best effect is obtained by massinc Jewels or bead rather than dotting thorn over th whole surface. SunburaU crystal or transparent glass la blue, amber or green glass are ussd on black and colored neta These are merely radiating lines of different lengths. Serpentine ' liaeS ' running in graceful curves in and out a heavy bor der on a tunia caa ba added to give 4 toufth of color. A piece of tissue paper can bo marked with th pattern, basted on under th nst and th beads sewn on the line, the thread between being on the wrong aide. When the whole de sign la completed, tha tissue paper la torn away. v-:' - Th Incorporation of targe silk 'flow or cut from pompadour ribbon or silk Is 4 not that sound promising. Many French designer have used this, and th effect is too good to be overlooked on this side' of the water. The flower " ar cut out and. applied, raw edges and . all, to th under surface of the net, "tinder the roees or leavea An Indistinct color offeot ia. given that 1 most im portant : la contributing ' a good - tone . to 4 costume. The pattern of the l&ce la 4 deciding note in th cutting of the. ' flowers. STven silk muslin and soft ere .tonne are used, proving that nothing la - too oheaj ior te if th itrtlstf ey ia . yours.-" ; ' - r ' ' . Consider th tunle and decorate it as hai been Suggested. A old goWh" caa " be used for th foundation and"a hand . some frock for the young girl pr the middle-aged woman-will result from th combination of net or .chiffon over allk. Have yoii thought ot the joy with which a hand-decorated tunlo would be greeted aa a Christmas gift t There is time, and the effect will amply repay you for th work. . to Transfer HERE ar suggestions for trans ferring tha . pattern before you 1 to any materia,! before, working. Perhaps th easiest way 1 the" "win-dow-pane" method. Thla la successful when the material la thin, like linen, . .batiste, etc Pin the sheet of paper tne and , ! material together and hold them up against the elass of a wln- with a sharp pencil draw on the do material tha design, which can be easily .Why Not Embroider 3 IF TOTJ were to buy on of thewo,- thi t cost Would' etartl you and your, husband; but thi message is to tho woman who admires th beautiful ami wtio hag enough of th practical tn hen to use Ch'heeU la bohaOX oX tho blouse. , -ouuiy jnoaei reny upon nana em broidery xor their attraetlvo beauty, anj . washabl fahrio or ctuffoa la used, thla) eaaon with, equal success. i In Dn simple Uttl blouse of handker dbdef llaea wide valenclenne lac Is) applied in strap over the shoulder. Al band crosse the e at tho lower front and two pieces ax need on each aleeva This' wide lace Is used for tho back-, ground of lovely embroidery! Th stem Is worked solid, and lome of tho loaves,, also the central part of each flower, are embroidered, and th design Is then oca" . tlnued over the lace In a spray on th linen. Chain stitching outlines th ton and tha edge of each, sleeve. - Thla blouao can be don in two shades ol cerise but blue, green and tan ar verj i effective. ; V CMnepot. and " 4 tnmnlng vtn ofll another model are sknple, yetjndoScrlb atolyr dalntr- la pale rlu on - 'wblttrr batiste. A row of dou la worked On tha group of tour lucks in th center. Oa each aid 4 Jiififllnf Jltem With leave . on t Is used in a polnteddesljrt with, eolnapots in the center.- The aoliarlea bodies is finished with shallow scallop. EMh full sleeve receives the saitia treaUnent. The . whole, Mouea ia ; cool comfortebM and servrcealjla - . ; A more ornate model for afternoon wear is 4 blouse that combine -color ana insn lace, a wnw 'mJV ,r surrounded by 4 band of tucks aild ln-; sortlon. a Panels ot tuck and Insert onr , are uaea on tno iong eieeve thread Is then applied pn the flower forms of the lace, and tiny flori i of blue are usc4 on the material, spotted , here and there on bodice and sleeve. Graduated Volnepota in red are use 1 ort a linen blouse. Thetop Is seal- loped, and three rowa of dots are use;! on the front A group of tucks at schj -Shoulder ia held down under. ambroid ered disks. The cuffs are decorated la the aame simple fashion. - - ' French iknota are - combined wltn couching on a favorite model. A snuare Made From Old Scraps UyfFOKTUNATJSir the prtoes SSK sd at the shops for Uttl luxuries ...'. of dress make it difficult for the jwomaa whose ponnioa must da the wprk - eny one can make from scrap. - fully about the neck line. Shane the If you have some tulle, plain or dotted outer edge temporarily as a broad, deep ... ..IUt.. nhuus ..mull. ni. nnlnt j 'lunr f innkai . n. .n l A 4.,. . ..i 4i, ,i . umiBr WJ uiuuuuo a, licni Iimtlll. J a choker and cuffs to matolu . For the - of einbrolderedllnen wfilhTnrrnwi thaTgt this narrow hern tr hand- and-twr-.- Wffathe-of --flowers are eiwmtaawlea. 'Cretonne Doilies I HE loveliest lunoheon et : lmai- habls can be made from flowered - cretonne,, . -r-- Purchase rose-flowered cretonne and out six circles each for plate and glass dollies 4nd on largo one for th center piece, '...Allow . a 'half inch for turning . under to proaue a neat nnisn. over-1 that looks -like' a solid-medieval flowed -, ' mci - Use a good thing en the tunic . the design-only be given, unpin the ou have seen this rose embroidery on we eeon through: th.mnnA T nn-h.lf nt ' I 1 OUllineq wiwi rv.s I. - 1 - 1 . . T . ' la Mt. m-wl,rtt.A MtlA IfAIH rn. 1 1 D Ii I II f T II, Ribbon- flowers . done by pushing tho embroidery ribbons thuough net and ma-klns one- strand form a petal of tho- ; delay or flat -flowtTr Is very effective. , In clusters - of - blossoms . this ribbon work .forms Important color masses on a tunlo of a plain color. -Imagine the 'daintiness of an. ecru lace tunio with, irarlands nt email daisies- In olnk. yet- ' low;, pale blue and lavender. . Uttl elbow, defined by eoudiinf. A running ln and lpav All in the Spae b- tween tha lines. 1 he yoke Is embrold- W ihoulil Vj " French knots, blue, pal greets Irrio and V and old rose giving a I'trslar -T-ct o i tong, slender throat there la nothing ao lecoming aa a choker. - Purchase a collar foundation of boned het the dculred height, and cut the not witde ehoug-h to form an Inoh frill at the top and two Inr i n wide at the bot tom, Have the tulle knlte-pleau.1 and sutuh It to the foUatUuotb collar and cuff aet on the tvaoer collar. using one etrlp on each of the three ldcw. Now fit In th bita of ,lace or medallions you jwsess to suit your twirscmail raste. ; After havtrne planned the tKxrder of ih collar, remove the . scraps end cover the paper "pattern with placed at the-top of a valance-.or lape JUace fan iUate and baste the lao and ta- . . gift. der th dollies with olunv: lac three Inchea In width. Thla aet la not ef .founclnr. Lace ends of a sash should feotlv when used on a highly polished , . be weighted down with rows c-t m- tani. - - - .- . . roivery or rtboon nowora. : .This should appeal to the clever nee- Tunics that have taaen - Paris by dlewonmn a an excellent suggestion for etorm -have the brilliant Incrustations a wedding, engagement or Chrlstma that easily can be aaaea to nowers in make it Plain. - If you have carbon okner. Place the sheet between your . I Ik. V mUU 1m,... i V,VT.u"T""iT'Ji':: ." XY.iY-i nB ih. fronfhuiuw the vote. Of the- design.? The Impression WlU be V Just-i 'suggest on left in -fine lines and. Will last unUl ; HVS sjhsuiow jok on worked. This method i succeasful oa Vnodel.' The lM F l J 'heavy material. - -and i outlined In coiichlns sin -h. t !- U Th4 last way ia also easy.,' On ''wis -s spots are used as aXH?.n? psper or ordinary tissue papor trace j Ventioual motif - Is. eiiibr o Uler. . at .ikl.u-.fc.w.cu1.4.u.. tuvJ.. j'-.' front. This yoke -n be i)"'-'l ort a '"- alvn ! nnmnlatAil. turn w th. nsn . nana bioiiiiO or ::y nmu i.i. - - and outllna the oattern with a. henvv lead pencil. ' Then place the design down on the fabric and redraw the out. llne, pressing hard With the pfincll. Th pattern will be transferred, without dil- aimple. easy mettmi of tlccc-i Surely tlifiga buk jes'lon p' f Jlnir in their appeal. )iy' enil.io! ! .Uus evyliome you cu-a n n ft e tint hiii s (if ri . Uustera fltnmda 0 beads and totx ; purely '.th trtf 1 M but Inn.l 3 i