t .-.
. .,"'- THg OREGON SUNDAY jOURNAt. PORTLAND, SUNDAY MORNING, JULY 23, mi ' V ' ' , V
By Adelaide Byrd
T-v r . T TIM T orrn 1 M T O A E r TM HXVrrw-k A XT
Me&dlewoman
r w-w i r m i a - i .. j. sty- .
THJ9 'aver-favorlts kimono blouse
pattern la here, all ready for
your quick fingers. I have had
shown for you the entire neck
with ltg scalloped edge, one shoulder4
" decoration and the front vine. At
each aide efUhe back you will con
tinue from the stem in a atralght line
flower, and three leaves, ', which you
will trace frpm the lower edge of" the
front fine and add' On the other
ahouldor you will And that a apray of
leavea ,1 required to complete the
line of 'decoration.' , r
At , the .edge of the kimono sleevea
you will put the line of acallope and
the flower motif. Make them as long
r aa short as you wlah. although let
r w - A
Zw md one I K U
shoukter I
2 C ..
THREE. WAYS TO TRANSFER
HEBE are suggestion for transferring the pattern feefpre 70a to
any material before working. T;, 1 - ' . w
Perhaps the easiest way is the "window-pane method.; This
is successful when tne material is van, iuc inen, oatisie, etc, rm uv
sheet of paper and the material together and hold them up agins
the glass of a window. With sharp pencil draw on the materia
tne aesign, wnicn can oe easuy seen tnrougn tne gooaa. 11 one-natr
the design only be given, unpin the paper and turn the other side
the fabric, The strong light behind wll make it plain. ' - t'
If you have carbon paper, you should place the sheet between you
fabric and the newspaper. This latter is on topi
go over tne outline 01 tne aesign,
lines and will last until worked.
material.. , -
The last way is also easy. On wax paper or ordinary tissui
paper trace the pattern before you. When the design is completed,
turn over the paper and outline the pattern with a heavy lead pencil,
Then place the design down on the fabric and redraw the outline),
pressing hard with tne pencil. The pattern will be transferred withi
out difficulty. S . , . -
Surely the way is easy. $
With a sharp pencil
The impression will be left in fine
This method is successful on heavy
I v7;
. ' m Vk. Baby
ne hint to you that lawn or batiste,
40 Inches wide, will be ample for the
entire pattern from aleeve end to
eleeve end, and 1 yarde will cut the'
blouse from front to back. And now
for the work.
The all-white treatment la alwaya
STood. Uae rather coarse thread, even
on fine material. You will And that
It worka up easily and will waah and
wear well. Colors, too, are effective.
X saw one quite like this done In cool
arreens, flowera and leavea, and the
whole effect waa the coolest thing
that you could wish on a aummer
day.
I have had the Central flower In
front worked In French knota. Out
line the petals first and then nil in
with large knots, working- the center
. aoiid. The leaves are to be done in
two ways. First you will outline
them and than All In half with aide
tltchea, ' which are In reality back
stitches. The onea on the vine that
KsjbS v hvi i aa savvs wis " m j vse sw
worked solid. Just ip give a pretty
variety. Do the stem in outline
tltch and keep It delicate and slen
der. '
I have had suggested the hem on the
back edges, which you will see la
lightly oa. the Mas. In order to pre
vent the back edges from stretching,
face them with a straight piece of goods
and work buttonholes on one side and
put the pretty little washable oroobeted
buttons on the other. If they are the
flat shapes, you can sew them on with
colored thread, making a French knot
In the center of each. It gives a pretty
finish down the back.
You hsve no idea how quickly the
seed stitches and the friendly .knots
will do the work for you. Just the out
line for the design, first, and then the
quick fllling-in and there Is your blouse
nearly finished.
Pad the scallops with soft' darning
cotton and work In buttonhole stitches.
Do the same on the enda of the sleeves.
If you caqnot wear the collarless blouse,
make a gulmpe of fine Insertion and
finish the top of the collar and the edge
of eaoh undersleeve with a chain stitch
lng done In the same embroidery cotton.
The whole will make a lovely aet for
your white linen skirt.
And If you wish to do this In cotton
voile or marquisette, you will And that
the design Is workable and leasing in
lta results. Just try It
WHAT YOU CAN DO WITH
. RIBBON
KNOWING how to tie a bow or how
to arrange folded ribbon artistic
ally la an accomplishment com
paratively few women posisss.
Deft fingers and an artist's aye are
eaaentlal In thla work, but with prac
tice moat women will be able to gain
good results. . '
To the": woman who Is employed, rib
bon Is a tried and true friend. Times
without number it ean be used to
add just the needed touch to a buslnaas
ult or to freshen a gown that has be
gun to ahow the marks of wear.
A fresh bow on the hat you have
been wearing all summer will fix that
so you ean finish out the season with
out th expense of a new one.
"With two yards of soft.' wide ribbon
. make yourself one of the fashionable
new girdles for your white frookr
Measure oft a length to encircle the
waist and out It straight at the enda,
Told It lengthwise In three to form nar
, row pleats and bone It with' featherbone
' four Inches on either side, Of the center
ot the front and' the same distance from
the eentep back, with a bone each aide
of the lap at the back to hold It in
ahape and for foundation, for the
hooka and eyes. Double the ends over
these bones and aew them fast,
Make a broad obi bow for the hack by ,
folding the ribbon over with the -two
dgea meeting in tbs center, Baste
these down (irmly and pleat In the cen
ter the same width as the girdle, Fold
hit fit the ribbon oyer the, center for
i vA;;' :: : v,' v;.-' r .:
a loop and aew It fast to the girdle.
After the girdle la In place, pin the
top of the wide loopa to the bodice of
your gown, well up on the back, about
the base of your shoulder blade. By
this a pretty oriental effect Is given to
the otherwise plain frock.
Four long lonna and two short loops
of ribbon, held In plaoe with a twisted
knot, make an artlstlo bow for a large
hat. Make the long loops nine' Inches
doubled and the ahort onea six Inches.
Wire the longer loopa with flat ribbon
wire, caught on the lnsfde with a long
stitch, ao .they will keep In place.
Around the crown of your hat put a
folded band of the aame ribbon and saw
the bow on the front, with the knot ex
actly In the center. Tack the loopa la
' plaee and your hat Is ready to wear.
A flat pump bow of velvet ribbon, or a
; bow of aoft satin ribbon wits' two loops
and two anda, makes a pretty finish for
, the linen collator the Dutch eollar of
' lace. ; v. '.; ' . .....
...Marrow ribbon made Into a roaette
now with, long enda, having the ribbon
,. sewed In . tiny loops simulating blos
soms, makes delightful little color
touches for-the top of the lace jabot.
' These ribbon flowera are pretty for hair ',
ornaments when fastened to a ribbon
oovarad bandeau. - ,v
American beauty,'" coral, cerise, royal ;
blue, nattier blue, empire green violet
; and Helatisplnk are the aeeepted eheeaa
- thla aeason. .
Black-and-white striped ribbons are
also much .in onn,r.t;,..-li'l'i;;.::,i--v:yA
I . I . V'J-
Mr
s Dresses
To Make Buttonholes
in
thin
Instead of Beading
IF TOV havs frown tired of beading
on your, undergarments, try using
two atrlpa of lace insertion, one, at
the back and 'one at the front of the
. seam. Inclosing (he raw edge between
them, just as you would when putting
on a double ouff to the wrist of a blouse.
Blip the ribbon In this as through a
; fasing, and it wlU show through the
"iS very dainty manner.
.This Plan wftl especially appeal to the
vf rK . esreful women, who like their
. clothing to look aa well on the wrong
, side as on the right. While (t may be
a bit more expeniilve than the beading,
It makes a charming change from the a
! old style of running ribbon In the
i lingerie. -t i
-T-TTB HAVE all been troubled
VV making buttonholes In
materials. Here la a way of
overcdmlng the difficulty. Hold a piece
of the material on the under aide and
out the hole through thla as though It
were part of the waist.
After you have finished working the
buttonhole, out away the under cloth
very carefully, go that it will not ahow.
You will have no difficulty even with
chiffon.. If you fold the cloth two or
tnree times,
Substitute, for Bodkin ,
IF A BODKIN la not at hand, an v
excellent aubatitute la a wooden :
match,.... ,;v...-,(';:'7;:i;'..'rv . V',' V':V.'
v First strike the headj let It blase a
moment and blow out the flame. Cut
or break off the burnt end,' then wrap'
the ribbon or tape firmly about the and ,
or the mafchiUck and push Jt through
the hem, aa Is- done with a bodkin. If
held firmly, the tape or ribbon will not
IT VERY often happens that baby'e
sheer little frocks are eraaaed If
put away1 in a drawer, even if great
care be exercised in keeping them
smooth. A much batter plan t to pro
cure a number of coathangers, chil
dren else, and on these place the tittle ,
dresses. Any particular drei Js easily '
found and may be taken dowji witbout
danger of crushing the others, It will '
be found worth while to have g'eircular
bar put up In the clocet.' a a great
many mora frock may be put sway at
a time. ' '
Underarm Seams
mME dressmakers hould hear In
mind the fact, that the under
arm aeam of a sleeve ehould be
sot so as to come 8j Inohea nearer the
front than the underarm bodice seam.
, You will avoid many a botohed gar
ment by remembering this. .
' To Finish Armholes
HPBft l'''st".9s'.;jray::tOlsfc the
y armholes of a very fine lingerie
V waist. y -Vl,;,- v;Vv.,v' -t .
Instead of binding ft in the ordinary
way, buttonhole-stitch n edges wu
loosely twisted embroidery cot ton, Thf
will conceal all the raw edge end will
be Invisible from the right side.