THE OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL PORTLAND, SUNDAY MORNING, ; JULY i 211911 AN AMERICAN ALONG THL RIVILRA Interesting Impressions of Tourist j-;y.;; Jv" ':: Written' v for" Th Journal ..; .by. . O., W. Burtoav.-v..;:;''.,v;t!.('!'...v i RomlTh carnival" at Valencia ne ' ' In . pat,y: vrawent s to " Barcelona and .'" from thera on' Match. 1, VAh ; Wednes day," wa- wr out of bed at' 3 a. m. 8paniH hospitality, which never - tails, 'had Coffee and hot rolls' on "our table at and Spanish ,diIatorine alo un- . xaiiinf) was fifteen minutes iat..witn, ma ooacn, so wa naa 10 : oeai. n, ; r fardles of ths condition- of sour foot p weac,; to the station, get , ou tickets, have our hsggase ; checked -and ; get places 4n 1 the crowded train before tha k man at the hell rope.vgave his signal $--'.t.ttman ; forward ' with little ". cow's1' hprn, WhO gave the signal, to ? the Wan In I the cab of the 'engine, who gave the signal and then the train moved oyt at S O'clock. ( We were on our way ; tj the French frontier at Cebere, and -from there toSProvence, where we were 10 sleep at a quaint, antique Aries,, on sHha giorious Rhone, vr-u: v H--y-te , The carnival is a "dead one" except !'.' at Nice, where it. is kept alive as a corpse is made to sit -up for a mo ment by an electric current Nlcu keeps' the semblance of ' life in the old : custom .for the. sake of -tourists, and , even these are getting tired of the form al, meaningless performance of young folks who have not lived long, enough to know what fun is. Only the common; est of the common people and only the very immature personaof this clump take any notice of the carnival. Tea, a few others. Hotels and restaurants, ' the , establishments thai sell women's hats and men's neckties, ' use the occa sion to send inartistic "floats" through -, ths streets to advertise their wares. "But tor these the old custom of "tak - Ing leave of -the blest" by a debauch as Lent comes on-with its austerities would be decently buried, laid away in museums with the stuff dug out of Pompeii and relics of the Caesars. i.'-' ' ' On to Itmy .But to our train. At 11 we were i m LeDtrs, ana unuer tne r rencn nag. the best way to see the country. Here we had to passthe customhouse, end at 1:10 p.. m. were on our express train bound for Aries in Provence, in the south of France. V, , " From Barcelona to the French fron tier this bit of northern Spain la ab solutely without charm. er Interest of any kind. The country Is iough, mostly mountains, at all places almost bar ren. The sea is not much in sight, and whenlt la-ih- shores are low-and the grouri'd marshy. At Cebere the scene changes sharply, snd from there to Aries the- south of France possesses an Indescribable charm, excepting at a few points where the sea is nean by and the shores low and marshy. This is notably -so around Cette. Along by Montpellier and Nimea it was southern France with all its great wealth of fruit orchards, of flowera snd all the signs of th "sunny south." Aries in the midst of the long and far famed Provence la a gem in very truth. Here we spent the day, and in the afternoon took a fast tratn which landed us in Marseilles, about 30 miles rnu, in about an hour. Spending the night here, we looked over the .city next day, and then on fer the -Riviera. '. ' TV From Marseilles to the Italian fron tier at Ventimiglia is about ICO miles. We' got away early, intending to stop at the frontier. The train was an ex press, and we were at Ventimiglia be fore noon. Here the time changes from western to central Europe time, which 1 is twenty minutes terlier. As we were not st all tired, the resolution wss taken to go on to Genoa. In a great 'rush we' got through the customhouse, re ehecked our baggage, ; got new tickets, and were on an Italian train. Oenoa was reached soon after dark, and as the Rivleria really beglna at' Cannes and ends at San Remo, Just below the fron tier, we were able to take' in all the glories possible from the train. The distance from the frontier to Oenoa is about 80 miles. From Genoa to Pisa is alktle more than loa miles, and from there to Rome something more than 200 We were at the "Eternal City" Friday night at 11 o'clock, having made a little over 850 miles from - Tuesday morning almost all in daylight hours. From Pisa to Rome the route is ab solutely lacking in Interest from any point of view. The landscape presents the same aDDearance as the most com monplace and uninviting portions of the United States in the central states anywhere along the Mississippi valley on down to the gulf. Oovernment-owned Xallroads. That redoubtable statesman-reformer. Colonel W. J. Bryan, and other states men and high privates in our oountry who are so steadfast in the opinion thst the government must take posses slon of the railroads In order to hasten the advent of the . millennium. hould make this trip of nearly 10QO miles as we made it - The railroad service in Bpatn ' is proverbially deficient from the American standard. Foij the short trip we were obliged to use our sec ond class kllometrlc tickets on a third class csr. as there were none of ours on the train. But we were' in the com pany :bf quiet, respectable, well man nered people without an exception. In France the train service was good from the standard of Europe and not bad if compared to our standard. Tne mo ment we left the French train, man aged by a corporation, and took seats in sn Italian train, state owned and operated, the difference could not fall o attract painful attention. The cost bf mileage was , the aajne, or If any- ning was a traction leas, and tns bag gage," which had gone all over Spain free, and the same in France, here was subject to a heavy tariff. A steamer trunk from Ventimiglia to Rome, about 400 miles, cost II lire, or ii.60. That was the least trouble. in the state controlled train with a' guard supposed to maintain order a couple of dagoes quarreled by the hour, in a boisterous, threatening manner to the disturbance of all In the car. The political loafer, misnamed guard, contented himself with a mild remonstrance once or twice which did no good. A gang of boys in .. the next car kept up a bedlam all the afternoon, and from the train, insulted any, woman or girt who came In sight. At one station another dago, got in the ' car with a bunch of chickens tied by the legs which he kept by him on h seat The guard took no notice of this transgression. ; The Spanish, and French cars wre in good order ' and clean at, all points. The Italian cars were clean at no point, ' The trainmen In Spain v were decently dressed. In France all were in, remarkably good or der. Those on the Italian trains were shabbily dressed; the clothes were not only threadbare, but not wlean. The poor, fellows were the pink of polite ness to us, seeing' that we got on the cars easily (for , a few coppers), shut- , ting us up to ourselves In a nice, well ' warmed compartment, and treating us i with, every sign of respect, But their woebegone . appearance excited tone's "ff sympathies in a "most lively j manner.. The Spanish and French- trains were i almost always prornpjl on tlms; ; the .v..;, Italian almost , never., .: - ;;.; ,J ,: :': f ' ''v'.rr.:- The Bsason for : v Tou, may ray, "It was In1 Italy." v II v ssy it was because the stste owns and - runs the rosds and politics control, , not business considerations, n I will hold i this opinion until I meet a vote chaser . who attends to business as does, the From' Pacific Coast on Trip From Valencia to Rome Through Europe's) Continental' playground.wfc!?.. jy-vL' I TopWharf at Marseilles where the Transatlantic steamers land. Bot- torn Cat aluna promenade. Barcelona. man 'employed by a corporation wliloh seeks to esrn profits for its sharehold ers by seeking to merit the pstronage of the public and insists on the em ployes attending to their business. So we Journeyed for nearly a week under three flags, two ' of monarchies in which the king rules" by tact and "di plomacy rather than by Mis arbitrary will, and one a republic of recent origin. The Latin type of humanity prevails in all, and the Influence of ancient Rome remains in Spain and France almost as potently as in Italy, while .the Roman ruins at : Sagunto and other places ' in Spain and at Aries or other places in France are only Just less impressive and interesting than those of Rome itself. Yet the modifications that have taken place with long lapse of ages are more impressive and interesting than it is to note the sameness remaining after the lapse of these centuries. What interested and Impressed me most were the things of tQday. Barce lona is proudly named by Its busy peo ple "Little Llverpo61." - Marseilles, ly ing aeross the Gulf of Lyons, might well dispute the sobriquet. . But these cities are only "in a way,", and a far off way, the type of thing one sees all through America. The real interest to one, and practically to a person 'from the pacific coast, '. it the Riviera; If one stretches the term to the breaking point and says 'the Riviera lies all the way between Marseilles and PJsa he has a stretch of about 360 miles. If he restricts the term and eays it in cludes Cannes to Pan Remo, it will be less than 100 miles. Let us look at the subject from both points of view. A oad of Many Tunnels. Whether the state or a corporation built the railroad along the Riviera. It was a great undertaking well per formed. Whatever language one should use would sound like rank hyperbole to the ears of any reader who had not gone over the read. I would like to have the facta so as to speak by the card, but cannot get them. From Can nes to Ban Remo, how many tunnels are there? On a former visit to Italy, crossing the Appennines from Florence to Milan, I counted 87 tuimelsy when we got tired of the arithmetic and do not know how many more there were on the line. FrOm Cannes to San Remo the count could hardly be made. If made at all one should hire a bright person to devote all his time to the job.- Are there 600 tunnels on this small stretch of road? J. am sure of it Are there 1000T I am sure there are not. Here the Maritime Alps come down In a great broad spur almost into the waters of the Mediterranean at all points, quite into the sea at many.' The road could not bridge the waters nor fllmb the heights, so it runs most of the way un der the ridges, and as these lie, compar ing great things with small after the fashion of Milton in "Paradise Lost," as close together as the fingers of one's hand, the line is mostly In the dark. So the train flies along In Egyptian night, flashing now and agsln into the day light and then back to darkness hour after hour after hour. It-makes one think of the hard hearted millionaire of long ago who fared sumptuously all his days, clothed in purple and fine linen, neglectful of the beggar at his gate to whose misery the dogs were fain to show compassion, but in after times this rich man in Hades-felt the tortures the more as he beheld the beggar in heavenly bliss.. So flashes the sunlight into one's eyes and, disappears along the Riviera as the one flash of celestial light broke on the sinner's eyes in the dim smoke of hell. The misery cams from the sharpness of the contrast. . ' vothlng Butjninata, Just as sharp is the contrast of the dark, smoke-filled tunnel to the glory of the sunlight on these hills ,so full of verdure, so painted with , brilliant colors It is the paradise of all Europe when snows lie thick on northern hills and fogs brood on all the plains, when the music of the streams ,1s silent, held in fetters of ice, and Ills has been be reft of all its comforts and most of its joys. To tho Riviera flee ail who can spare the money and the time to bask in almost perpetual sunshine and warmth. This stretch of territory has absolutely not a possession but its cli mate. A more inhospitable shore there Is not, did not the sun fill it all" With light. The most forbidding- spots are those most in demand, and the 'higher up the slope the "villa" clings to the cliff the more attractive it is. And it is only so small a 4 strip of territory! Rome lies much farther south, but its climate is awful. Naples has a cli mate less desirable and lies so much farther from Paris, London.' or: Berlin that the Riviera has come to be the resting place for all who, like birds of passage, flee from the wrath to eome when' winter. Is on there. . ? , - The coast Is honeycombed with nooks that nestle" between - the ridges of the mountains, hask In the sun and listen to the muslo of the sea..' Along these ridges grow the. scrub oaks and pines of northern latitudes, while In the nooks bloom the .orange and the lemon, the i wf it-:-: " O, , ' - t ' i asalfea and the rose. Knowest thou the land where the myrtle grows, where the spicy breezes of sll kinds blow? It is these nooks along the Riviera. It has cost fortunes to carry water to these -nooks and on to these ridges. But the water is free. And all the nooks are Tull of maghrTfcehf "hotels," ofcSm fortable boarding houses, of villas to let and of chambers to rent. The cities are large, the towns are many, the pop. ulp.tion is dense, and they have but one harvest, which is gathered in the water. It needs no reaping, threshing nor mar keting. It comes In ready gold in the potkets of at least 0,000,' tourists who coma here yearly an spend money lav ishly. The lemona . have no Juice; the oranges cannot be eaten. . Birds and bees may subsist on these spurs of the Alps and goats manage to browse on the herbage. That is all. The climate produces tourista. end they pay the landlord and the butcher fend the baker, ard pay all well. Amerloa's Stvlera Excels. What an old, old, threadbare story! And what is It all to us? "Ay, there's the rub." What of It to us? Much more than In any otber story I ever heard. California may well boaet of 60.. 000 carloads of oranges and lemons, of Its millions of pounds of prunes and raisins and its millions of gallons of winer San Franeieco may be froud of its commerce and the currency in its banks. Oregon "may swell her big broad breast over her apples and wheat crops and the commerce of Portland. Wash ington may make) as much noise as a brass band on the) Fourth of July, or when the insurgents hold a meeting, about her apples and forests. The coast snd its cities have more behind them than has the Riviera, rich as old Italy is. And Jt has Its Riviera more attrac tive than the one I have tried to de scribe, and one to produce more wealth In the future than this one does in the present From Santa Crua to San Diego there is twice the coast there is Tiere, and in all respects capable of being made more of. There i- not a mile here to compare In natural endowments with Half Moon Bay, Santa Cruz, Capl- PEOPLE'S AMUSEMENT COMPANY PRESENTING Pictured Dramas STAR THEATRE The Home of Banner Photoplays Fighting Blood, Indian War Story Battlehymn of the Republic, Vita graph production of Julia Ward Howe's, famous poem. Taming- the Shrew, a Shakespeare comedy. " Verdian Trio. Sineine selections from the. operas of Prince of , Pilscn and Atttla. ARCADE THEATRE A Convict's Courage, Heroism un equalled. Star Spangled Banner, appropriate drama. The . Little Rebel, Patriotism vs - Love. ; t Jean Wilson, popular baritone. l " " OH JOY THEATRE HOUSE OF WESTERN HITS Rescued In Time, .melodrama. Passing of Dappled Fawn; Indian feature. 1 - -,.. . : The New, Editor, snappy comedy Tin Mining, interesting. - TIV0LI THEATRE :.-ilit' Feature Extraordinary 'i . ,! EJGHTING BLOOD! Exactly as. presented at the Star Theatre ' Vv,,. .v0'" 2-Otber Matchless Pictures 2 tola,". (San ' IJusL Obispo, Bants Barbara; and on. to Santa Monica and still, down to Ban Diego. North of 8an Francisco and all around the great bay are nooks as full of charm as Bart Remo or Ban Rafael. - All up the coast through the great woods ' on the Oregon along the Kogue river.the same matchless attrac tion lie as.' thick as blaiVberries. The Rtviera has no summer' .trade, at all, Tuget j Sound has fdiqW - in landscape charm - than any-part of Itaty.ii Santa Cruz and Santa Monica are; as good In August as in January. , tJkt an orange grove, they, bear fruit - all ' the year around... ;--te;ts.;-f.i .;. ' : 1 Italy -has, 83,000,000 -population. . The coast has '6,00.000.-. When California is peopled like Italy It will have 50.000.000 people. i The coast will have as many as all Europe has today, .The days -Are here- atid more of them 'coming aSt when the Pacific Riviera wilt compete with ths Italian for the tourist trade of the "world. I can look a little, ahead when the coast .will be tb,e .'playground? and the sanatorium of. the world, arid" 1 hope,' old a man an I' am, to se for myself the day when the tourist crop of .the coast will be counted by 150, poo a year of more. - ' , . NUMEROUS PLANS FOR ' ...IDEAL SCHOOL OFFERED ., '" Slem Bkreui of The Journal. '. . Salem, Or,4'July 1. The request pub lished by Walter Pierce and other boost ers of Hot Lake, Union county, for sug gestive plans for the construction of' model PttbJlc:. school bullding.-ircgardiees of the cost, has, aroused general inter-. Three NIfltitis - Beginning Tonight POFTTLAB TV.ICH TOT kUTIHEB JULY 4. . A Toy Will Be Oivsa to Every Child Under 13 Tears 7" , . ' ' " f W J 7 ' : j- i ft. j Evenlnss Ix)wer floor ..$1.00. 75o Balcony, 5 rows . . 75c . Balcony, in rear 6 rows BOo Gallery 35c. 25c feats KAXKISOB-QSET F IS ICE PBESXWTS MRS. I mil 5.-r 1 1. C.f Saturday DaU Matinee - July 15.U.15 FIfSKE and THE MAsTBCATTAV COMPA.HT in "Mrs. BUMPSTE AD-LEIGH" A Comedy 17 HABIT JAMES SMITH -BlBMi. -JlIHtgJi'J'Li. Announcement Extraordinary HEILIG THEATRE 4 SSs00NS Beginning Next Thursday : ; I MU1IUN PICTURES SEE YOURSELF AS OTHERS SEE YOU j 2:30 EVERY AFTERNOON I Performance Continuous in Evening from 7:30 LOWER FLOOR, 25c BALCONY, 15c IB AKER fl ft AND ELEVENTH STS. 'i! flff JJ.y BIGGEST AND MOST COMFORTABLE -V Vaudeville and Motion Picture " r THEATRE IN THE CITY ALL FIRST RUN PICTURES. HIGH CLASS ACTS Continuous Performances, Starting Afternoons at 2 Evenings at 7:45 Admission 10c, all seats. Children tinder 10, Sc. (wa Unequaled Week ''Commencing Monday Matinee, July 3 SPECIAL ENGAGEMENT ITS WOFtLD'S MOST NOTED MIMIC DIRECT FROM HAMMERSTEIN'S, NEW YORK ROSTOW European Equilibrist CLIFF DEAN & CO. In "A BURGLAR'S . NERVE" FOUR COOK SISTERS 'America's Famous Fetnale Four Popular Prices-Matinee DailyCurtaiW 2 &0? J:30, 9 K)0 est ' throughout the state . and' a large numbervof plana "has. j peon sent ,lnr to; State i Superintendent .; , Alderman, ' , Mr. Alderman will publish a pamphlet in the-near future on' the subject of,publlo school house architecture which it is thought will haive an influence In pie-. Venting mistakes and waste In. building) the structures. One-of the central ideas I in Superintendent Alderman's pamphlet on this subject will be that, as far as possible, upstairs rooms sttould be avoid ed becaue of ' tho noise and also the lighting. Modern, educators are advo cating skylights wherever possible, he says, so the light may bo made to fall uniformly upon the pupils' desk from the" rear and left. AH communications regarding the model school have been forwarded' to Mr,' pierce at Hot Lake. REALEiTrUEACTIVE . . IN WALLA' WALLA - 1 i Walla Walla. Wash., July 1. June; was the : banner month in reni cstat i , transfers for the year, the total of mortgages and" deeds recorded In tlie; oflice of County ..Auditor, Jack ; W, SWPasy amounting' to more than, two and a quarter millions of dollars, about j twice the amount of February, which ; was the best preceding month. r This makes the total deeds and mort- j gages for the sis months $6,573,000. Deeds for six months totaled $3,542,-'. 476, and 'mortgages $3,030,426. This is! the first year that records have been i kept, but Jt Is believed these sales are j better, than ! but ycar'6. although prob- ably not as good as those of 1009. j TTi THEATRE II . "PT" Seventh and Taylor FERRIS HARTMAN And His Superb Company Tlie Toymaker Music by Audran A Xdttle Jonraay to ths Land of Hake-Believe - - WITH Walter De Leon AND " ' -IVflss Mugglns'i Davles Together with a 40-' Singing and Dancing Company 40 JTTX.T 4. TOT MATIKEE. Lower floor ....75c, 50c Balcony . . . BOc Gallery '.35c, 25c Wow Selling for Engagement. Prices $2 to 50c BEAT SAX.B . Tuesday, Julyllth r FOBTUND ROSE j- FESTIVAL THEATRE Vaudeville SWEENEY and ROONEY Dancers Eccentric RAPPO SISTERS . Russian Danseucs PANTAGESCOPE Latest Animated Events lk M,-L'.f -4i ;-rJf: Beginning Monday Matinee Miss Grace Cameron I " w - V New York FavpHte-Comic Opera Btar, ' - , CiERALD GRIFFIN & CO. FAY, 2 COLEYS & FAY! In a Tabloid Version of Edward The Minstrels "From T'ncle Tonj to Owing Towne s Comedy, "Other Peo- Vaudeville." ... . pie's Money." ; . . ' . . - ,y . ' J,m That Popular Duo ' CLIFFORD WALKER KELLY and KENT A Humorous Musical Monologlat of . ... i ' International Reputation. Vaudeville Fin Makers. 'JVCl ORfHESTRA-PICTURE? Speeial Added rsstm-e .- - Lnte Feature with Rlngling Bros." Circus THE LORCH FAMILY . A Thrilling and Amasing Combination of Dancing. Acrobatics and Rlslev. Evening Prices: 15c, 25c, SOc, 75c DAH.T MATIHEE lBc. 360, 500. HOLPif KATITOB Bight grtees. WekJuIy3 Mere s that Blackface "toll I V VAN The Minstrel Man. King of :t Little Playmate, ' w w. All Burnt-Cork Comedians. ' Sweet Playing SpnB OUvotti Troubadours Of Sunny-Jtaly- A Line of Chatter About Cheese. BOB SAHDBSBO, AVD JAKES LI1 In "How to Make a Welsh Rarebit." BPECXAXi Ueorg6 Roland and His Company of Players, Presenting added "HOGAN IN SOCIETY FEATTJBE Bert Leslie's Great Classic in Slang. IVI A. T N E E TO s ' 1111 1 111 ' 1 '. i lTiLnioJ'iLiU 11 FIRST RUM MOTION Following hree 1000 Foot "Laura Doone" DRAMATIC FEATURE FILM "THE MADAME LOTTA ASHBY QTHICK Dramatic Soprano Will Sing "BECAUSE" by D'Hardelot. Prices 10c Any Seat 10c AV0 '5th&WaSh. 11 Theatre (CDailks FI M Every Up-to-Date Park Attraction Now in Existence. qMriT"ff KV!9!Jk She Patrick Conway i O A AND WORLD-FAMOUS Band Sunday July 2 Most Expensive Band in America "Highest of all in-public : , favor.'-Chicao Tribune , FESTIVAL OF MUSIC Engagement Extraordinary " t 5 Other Featores t Ostrich Farm" Delight of Trail"' ' ' 12 Acres of Amusement 112 : Acres; of Comfort Follow the .Crowd.; Jr: 1FC Cars First and Alder Launches Morrison Street Dridr Ptoses Mai' k K 1020 : 7TI 13 .Tr K M A 1 "V IA I V . fc , : V "V 9 i. t ADVANCED'.4 VAUDEVILLE YVeefc, Jnly,3d FORMERLY TH EG R A N D SULLIVAN & CONSIDINE Late Sensation, the Follies Bergre josxa o'acxEBS Dainty Queen of the Silver Thread. D A I L Y if II COMFORTABLE w Park and Washington FILMS CHANGE EVERY SUNDAY AND WEDNESDAY I PICTURES Films Run Until Wednesday. wSecuringsEvidencew COMEDY ORPHAN" DRAMATIC - Senorita Rosales , ! Harpist i Will Play ' -"SPRING SONG" by Gounod Box Seats With OP Cl- I Private Entrance. "w CUW, Films Change Sun. and Wed, DORQTHY BUSCHER-Sprano ; ULA1JYXS MUtBKK viounist ... O A K Engagement Limited IP Inforaatlon Children 5c Under Six wr;. .Fre, Pupiht Of ; .the ' Public' Schools under-12 Free Saturday ; aftfnoo.ns.. 5c . carfare . from iny" f part of the ctt,'', THEATRE 1 . 't 11 V..L .I' . . I 1- XV, t::